Design

How to mark logs for cutting into a bowl. Features of manufacturing a log house from round wood

Now it is fashionable to talk about the special energy of a tree, beneficial effects on a person, etc. But, even if we discard esotericism and turn to modern science, you can see that the characteristics of moisture absorption, air microfiltration parameters and other properties of wood correspond to the needs of the human body many times better than the most advanced materials.

They talk about a house made of wood as a “living” one that preserves the health of the owners. This is true with certain reservations, but flip side such properties - the need for counter care. "Classic" log house from natural wood requires care and supervision much more than brick or concrete.

To begin with, a tree is a highly fire hazard material. At the same time, various kinds of fire-fighting impregnations and coatings either significantly worsen the notorious environmental component and (or) the aesthetics of wood, or lead to a noticeable rise in price. In addition, most flame retardants have a limited service life, usually not exceeding 10-15 years. Then the processing must be repeated.

The tree is also largely subject to biogenic influences:

rotting caused by various kinds of fungi and algae;
damage by insects - woodworms (various kinds of larvae, beetles and worms);
rodents (mice, rats).

Measures to combat these troubles are as controversial as the treatment with flame retardants.

The main types of material for the log house

The severity of the problems described above can be largely reduced at the stage of procurement of materials. The question of how to make a log house with your own hands is preceded by the question of what to make.

The options are:

log house made of natural logs;
log cabin;
log house from pre-processed logs (rounded).

In turn, when deciding how to make a log house from a bar, you have to make a choice between ordinary construction timber (1), profiled timber (2) and glued timber (3).

Timber: building (1), profiled (2), glued (3).

From the point of view of convenience and manufacturability of work, the timber is noticeably superior to ordinary (natural) logs. A rounded log does not fundamentally differ from a beam, except, perhaps, for a higher expressiveness and originality of the design of buildings.

The first, salary crown, in the absence of a foundation, is laid on linings. They are placed under the lower logs of the crown crown at a distance of about half a meter from the corners of the future log house. Strictly in the horizontal plane, with a deviation of the upper edge from the horizontal by no more than 5 mm.

The bottom of the logs lying on the foundation is cut off by 3-5 cm, and a layer is laid between them and the foundation.

Having exposed the longitudinal logs, longitudinal grooves are cut in them, for the next row of logs and semicircular recesses - bowls into which the logs will form a perpendicular wall. Then perpendicular logs are laid, in which longitudinal grooves and bowls are also selected. The first crown is ready.

Log buildings have been popular for centuries. This is also relevant at present. Do-it-yourself log cabin has certain advantages, such as strength, heat capacity, and besides, it is a natural material. But in order to enjoy a sauna under a log house, you need to understand the technology of assembling a log house and the rules for caring for it. This article and video is about how to make a log house for a bath with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a log cabin for a bath

Log cabin advantages:

When starting to build a bath, you need to consider the following:

In order for a log house to last for many years, it is made from certain types of trees. Especially strong and relatively inexpensive varieties are usually used.

Logs under the frame must have a certain size. For the construction of the log house, logs with a diameter of 20 - 26 centimeters are used. Logs must be the same in thickness, and not have bends and cracks..

Log assembly options

You can assemble a log house with your own hands, but still you need some experience working with wood.

Before starting assembly work, it is necessary to draw a construction project, on the basis of which the method of attaching the log house to each other is selected.

The classification of the log assembly depends on:

From planning.
From the method of attaching logs to each other.
From processing logs.

Depending on the layout, the building can be:

Four-wall (square or rectangular).
Five-walled (lack in the layout of an intermediate wall made of a log house).
Figured (hexagonal or semicircular).

There are two methods of attaching logs or timber to each other: “in the paw” and “in the bowl”. They create a stable structure, the difference lies in the creation of special grooves.

The advantage of fixing logs "in the bowl" is that the corners of the log structure are not subject to gusts of wind. The only drawback is the significant increase in wood consumption.

When attaching logs "in the paw", less wood is consumed, but the building is exposed to the action of winds.

Both of these methods are quite complicated, so it's better to visualize them with the help of a video.

Taking into account the specifics of processing, the log house is erected from logs and profiled timber. Very rarely, ordinary logs and glued beams are used for felling.

Do-it-yourself material for assembling a log house

As already mentioned, the frame is erected from two materials: rounded logs and profiled timber. They have advantages and disadvantages.

A rounded log is created by processing an ordinary log to an ideal geometric shape. To achieve this, a special machine is used, with which the top layer of the log, which is the most durable, is removed.

As a result, a rounded log is obtained, which has certain advantages:

Due to the ideal geometric shape, the building acquires a perfect look and there is no need to decorate it additionally.
The processed rounded log is the same along the entire length. Due to this, the building is erected strictly according to the level, without distortions, the joints sit down without gaps.
Log construction usually shrinks over the years. When using rounded logs, the smallest proportion of shrinkage occurs.
When used for a log house, such material makes the building stable and durable.
Unlike ordinary logs, round logs carry less heat loss.

Profiled timber is processed on a special machine. The resulting beam on the sides has a flat surface, and the top and bottom are embossed, in the form of grooves.

Thus, the profiled beam is characterized by the following positive qualities:

Its cost is lower than round logs.
Thanks to the grooves, the structure is more stable, and the construction of the building is faster.
Due to the flat side surfaces rainwater will not be able to get into horizontal joints, therefore there will be no stagnation and decay of wood.
Profiled timber has minimal shrinkage.
It does not need to be additionally subjected to decorative processing.
Due to its low weight, the profiled timber is suitable for any type of foundation.

Stages of building a log house with your own hands

To build a log house with your own hands, you should know that this is a very difficult process and certain skills are needed. The correct construction of the structure is carried out in several stages.

Prepare the area and pour the foundation. It must be taken into account that for each material prepare an individual foundation. The easiest way to use a strip foundation because of its strength and ease of construction. After pouring the foundation, it is allowed to settle for a month, and then proceed to the next stage.

A layer of roofing material is laid on the foundation. A board, 5 centimeters thick, is placed on it, and a layer of tow is laid on top to increase the heat capacity of the building.

The first crown of the log house is laid on the tow. The logs used tend to have the largest diameter among all the others. Before laying the first crown on the logs along the entire length they make notches 15 centimeters wide. This ensures tight contact between the log and the board.

After laying the first crown, the next crowns are erected to the very top. Between them it is necessary to put tow. For the stability of the structure, a spiked connection of logs is created.

After building a bathhouse from a log house, it is left for at least 1 year to shrink the logs. It should be taken into account that shrinkage can deform window openings and other structural elements. To avoid this, it is necessary to make technological gaps that will disappear after shrinkage.

During shrinkage, floors and roofs can be dealt with, because they are not subject to deformation.

After shrinkage of the bath, the tow is rammed between the crowns and numerous gaps. Such work is carried out every year.

After that, the construction of the structure from the log house will be considered completed. Video attached.

In order for the bath to be in working condition for a long time, you need to know the subtleties when building a structure:

Logs for a felling are harvested in the winter. This is necessary because during winter harvesting, the log undergoes less decay, and it is resistant to various precipitations. To check whether logs were harvested in winter, iodine is dripped onto them. A bluish spot should form.
In order for the building to serve as long as possible, all wooden structural elements are treated with an antiseptic.
To increase the heat capacity of the structure and give it a beautiful appearance, it is necessary to clog all joints and gaps with tow. It should not protrude beyond the logs, otherwise it will get wet and rot.
If the method of fastening the logs "in the paw" is chosen, it is necessary to protect the corner joints. To do this, they are sheathed with boards.
It should be remembered that during shrinkage, the height of the building will decrease by 5 or 10 percent.
Cutting the material to the center will help prevent cracks in the log.
Caulking works are carried out in dry weather.
They increase the stability of the structure and prevent the displacement of the logs by fixing them with dowels installed in the holes in the center of the logs.

Thus, making a log house with your own hands, although a difficult process, is doable. In the video presented for this article, you can find full information on this topic.

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, a log is also a suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His theme has collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

Eco hut.
Training.
Foundation.
Box.
Roof.
Internal work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 FORUMHOUSE user

The dream of building has crept in for a long time wooden house- environmentally friendly, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other "benefits" of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable home, suitable for winter raids and year-round living, therefore shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of centuries past were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the construct:

Pile foundation.
A box of hand-cut logs.
Metal roof.
As a heater for ceilings - sawdust with and sawdust with lime.

Training

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden change house and a toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman aimed at a one-and-a-half-story log house 8 × 9 meters with five rooms, but as he comprehended, a completely different design loomed. From the second floor, although attic, he refused, both because of the unwillingness to engage in stair fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with the planned furnace heating there will be a large temperature difference between the levels. Plus, it is problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with overlap and a cold attic is much easier. Next came the turn of the quadrature, and the result of the selection optimal layout was the project of a log house 6 × 6 meters, with a set of functional premises.

The meters vital for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings in operation by reducing heating costs, and country specificity - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping”. However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned cutting of the log into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, and a seven-meter log is much more expensive, and only a few work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but the “dovetail” with the intersection is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.

Foundation

The preference for screw piles was given due to the desire to try a “super modern solution” and save money, as well as due to the speed and relative ease of installation. In total, nine piles were screwed in - three points of support for each bearing beam, the pile diameter was 108 mm, and the thickness was 4 mm. Despite some problems during the installation of piles and the fragility of the coating, positioned as a durable protective layer, but in fact, effortlessly torn off with a fingernail, the craftsman is satisfied with the choice. Moreover, it is possible that the bathhouse will also be put on piles, although it admits that the tape or slab will be “more reliable”.

Box

The log house was collected on moss, ordered in advance from another region, before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since it was still fresh when it was delivered and did not particularly shrink during the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. It turned out to be problematic to make log partitions due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team brought and assembled just a box in one more day, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely on all the walls, it took much less than planned, as practice has shown, they obviously did not report it.

To dry the log house, ventilation holes were cut out 30 × 30 cm in size, with a grate. To everyone who is only in the process, mike099 recommends doing more. He was already engaged in heaving (primary caulking of the log house with moss) on his own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, cut off the excess with a clerical knife.

Roof

From popular now soft tiles The craftsman refused for several reasons.

mike099

The soft roof was dismissed immediately, due to the lower environmental friendliness and higher price. Binders, the basis of soft tiles - these materials are far from natural. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a flat flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore, I preferred metal tiles, imitating the ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of rafter elements - a central ridge support beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50 × 50 mm), lathing with a step under the coating profile (35 cm). As planned - eaves overhangs of 70 cm, in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the log house “under the roof”, I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary ebbs from the waterproofing at the ends, slots of the ebbs and at the junction of the box and the strapping. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemistry, I had to treat the gables from imitation timber with protective impregnation.

Internal work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the beam, I wanted to keep the style, but processing the log now is not a cheap pleasure, like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board 50 mm thick, with gaps covered by an unedged board 25 mm thick, all the lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. In order to avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two supporting logs go through the ceiling.

I made the window openings on my own, as the specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The pigtail is made simple, rough T-shaped: I marked the grooves in the log with a saw, the main sample was cut with a milling cutter. I laid a bar 50x50 mm dry, with a linen tape (insulation) and shot a box from a board 200x50 mm to it with self-tapping screws.

Another concession in favor modern materials – steel door and two plastic windows, wooden euro-windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows on his own, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory one, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal with large labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. Under the furnace, the foundation is 1.7 m deep, reinforcing cage, two m³ of concrete.

As it dried, the draft floor “pleased” with cracks, I had to close them with flashings, before filling the sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Sawdust before laying flavored with lime and carefully tamped. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman brought out communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warpage of the floor after drying for just one day and the loss of knots. As a result, the coating is opened and re-installed, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with a warmed underground - metal carcass along the perimeter of the basement, to it XPS, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, there are also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn in the area under the very log house, and the plinth was later revetted basement siding under brickwork.

Log sanding mike099 did it on my own, first with an eccentric sander. It turned out to be rather weak, so they replaced it with a grinder, first I used a circle with a grain of 80, the second pass - with a grain of 120-150. Only 200 liters of waste accumulated in the vacuum cleaner, but it was worth it.

Construction wooden houses and baths is gaining unprecedented popularity. This is due to the environmental friendliness and safety of wood, as well as the availability of assembling wooden structures.

Modern felling of log cabins is represented by both the simplest and technologically sophisticated methods that provide maximum protection of the finished log cabin from the adverse effects of the environment.

The final stage of wooden construction is the assembly of the frame. Often, for the construction of wall structures, rounded logs are used, which are securely interconnected with the help of special spikes and grooves.

Overview of felling methods

To understand how to properly cut a log house, you need to choose the most appropriate way to join the lumber.

The most popular felling technologies are Russian, Canadian, Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian. Each of them can be used various options log connections.

Canadian

Cutting into the Canadian bowl is performed on round logs and has a number of advantages:

Increases the service life of lumber.
Provides additional protection for the log house from moisture penetration at the inner corners.
Reduces heat loss.
Maintains an optimal indoor climate.
Simplifies in the channel provided for it.

Russian

Russian felling is one of the most demanded and popular types of construction of wooden houses. Often, it is performed using a round chopped log.

Such material is resistant to increased moisture, mold and fungus infection. The fastening of logs according to Russian technology is carried out in 2 ways - in the paw and in the oblo.

Finnish

For the erection of a wooden structure Finnish technology it is recommended to use round timber and timber harvested from coniferous trees. The preparation of material using Finnish technology is similar to the previous version. The insulating material is laid tightly and deep between the logs, so it is absolutely invisible from the outside.

Norwegian

Norwegian technology involves the use of a log carriage with an oval section. Otherwise, this technology is carried out similarly to the Canadian version. However, the walls with this option for preparing logs are flat, which allows you to effectively save space, especially in small buildings.

Swedish

Visually, the Swedish technology differs from all others in the appearance of the ends obtained. In this case, the crowns are hewn in the form of hexagons. The bowl is also shaped like a ½ hex, which simplifies the process of stacking crowns. The Swedish felling is distinguished by the complexity of installation and high financial investments.

How to properly cut any type of log house in order to get a practical and durable structure at the end? This process involves sawing or cutting on a bar or log of special corner connections and longitudinal grooves for reliable installation of crowns. This can be done in several ways.

The method of felling "in oblo"

Oblo felling - the easiest and most affordable construction option various types log cabins, which is done manually. The process of preparing building material does not require large time and labor costs.

A similar method involves the removal of logs around the corners of the log house at a distance of up to 25 cm, which leads to a reduction in the size of the finished structure from all sides. For this reason, it has another name - felling with the remainder.

This type of construction provides additional strength to the structure, and the protruding elements protect the corners of the log house from damage and destruction.

The bowl is made in the form of a semicircle with a smooth surface and is not equipped with locks. To prevent possible rotting of logs, it is recommended to carry out timely outside and inside.

Cutting method "into a bowl"

Chopping into a bowl - an intermediate option between an okhlop and a haul, is performed in half a tree, while the chopped bowl can be placed up or down.

The arrangement of logs with bowls down is not only convenient, but also practical. This will prevent the accumulation of excess moisture in the cups, protect the joints from rotting. The preparation of logs with bowls down is often referred to as “in clapping” due to the fact that the upper structural element with a bowl is put on the lower one, as if slamming it.

This option of preparing logs eliminates the formation of unwanted voids in the joints between the crowns.

Many novice craftsmen may wonder how to cut a log house into a bowl or thicket correctly? All work is carried out in the following order:

The future log cabin is marked and the logs are prepared in accordance with the required parameters. Each whip is numbered.
The size of the bowl should be equal to ½ of the thickness of the log. Stepping back from the edge of 22 cm, markings are applied with a pencil or nail.
Processing is carried out with a chainsaw or a cleaver to obtain even and smooth edges of the bowl.
A spike for the bowl is made in the lower log, a groove is made in the upper log. During the assembly process, insulation is laid between the individual elements. The assembly of the crowns is done with the bowl down. This is required in order to prevent moisture from entering the joints at full.

The method of cutting "in the paw"

Felling involves stacking logs in such a way that they do not extend beyond the outer corners. This method requires serious preparation and adherence to the technology of laying individual elements.

Reliable connection of the crowns is ensured by the presence of double locks in the corners of the structure. Inaccuracies in the installation of logs can lead to the appearance of cracks and gaps in the finished structure, which in the future is fraught with large heat losses.

To improve thermal conductivity in the corners of the log house when using this processing method, it is recommended to carry out additional insulation and outer cladding.

The method of processing "in the paw" provides an increase in the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe premises while maintaining the length of the log used.

Work on the construction of a log house by this method is carried out in the following order: first, the lower crowns are laid, then mounted wooden base for the floor, then the flooring is laid and the construction of wall structures continues.

The felling of a log house can be done by hand, having prepared high-quality lumber and choosing the most appropriate laying technology. The finished log house is durable, practical and not whimsical in care, so it can stand for more than a dozen years.

Build a bath from a log house simple task, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials, and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many masters.

This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camping stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries of competition with baths and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting a bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it works in general - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Location and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a fresh water reservoir located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrast bath - after taking a steam bath in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, a natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Linked up today country bath there is no particular need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from outsiders (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), fire-prevention distance from the main residential building is not less than 15 meters.

The main premises of the bath are a waiting room, a washing room and a steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 for one person. In addition, in the dressing room there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothes, benches for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sunbeds.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bathhouse of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bath of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, relaxation rooms, etc. to it.

In temperate and cold climatic zones it will be correct if the entrance to the bath is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (south-western) side. Such an arrangement of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will make it possible to illuminate its premises with sunlight longer.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

Procurement of basic materials.
Selection and laying of the foundation.
Creation of a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).
Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bath.
Assembling the log cabin.
Roof construction.
Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
Caulking bath walls.
Laying or installation of a furnace, installation of a chimney.
Electricity and water supply of the bath.
Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture to the outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, baths are built from pine or spruce round timber with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bath - oak, larch and linden. For example, the lower crowns and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the very juice" (that is, not deadwood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made from larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for building a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bath - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of coniferous species, dryness, a sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places of damage by woodworms.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying the foundation of any type: cleaning the site from debris, complete removal of the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid clay or fluid plastic.
Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dusty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bath

They are arranged on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junctions of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. Bookmark depth column foundation- not less than 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly at the construction site of the bath; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. Basic (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation, they are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

Foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be done independently. This will require a collapsible formwork made of boards, smeared from the inside with a non-hardening lubricant of the Emulsol type. Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For casting foundation pillars inside the pits dug for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then the concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is lifted by 400 mm by rocking, sand is poured from the outside and poured new portion concrete.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface smooth enough, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

Between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and internal walls the steam room is laid out with brick walls, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried in the ground by 250 mm.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. At the ends of the pillars, during casting, mortgages of the required shape made of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the log cabin of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a tape monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

Marking the construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
Formwork installation.
Reinforcement tab.
Pouring concrete mix.

The reinforcement laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5:3:1 (crushed stone:sand:cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete required for pouring strip foundation, simple enough, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mix of concrete is the lack of scales on construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of gravel, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or wire probe, tapped with a hammer outside formwork (eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, the formwork after pouring concrete must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the period allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

Ruberoid.
Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), section from 32 to 57 mm.
The grid is masonry.
Red brick.
Masonry mortar.

Roofing material (roofing) is cut into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic(for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row dressing method: a masonry mortar is laid out on a roofing material layer, the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis) is laid on it, then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are laid, but already “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in spoons" and "poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bond rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the solution is sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the bath house. If a major laying of the heater is supposed, it needs an independent foundation, i.e. not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earth, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bath visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring rises above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and an unpleasant odor. The wooden flooring wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6-8 years may require replacement. More practical for bath flooring will be tile- it is easier to take care of it, it is not affected by moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep warm), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid in series. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay a roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

First option- flooring with a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can proceed to tile work.
Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). Composition of the mixture: perlite:cement:water as 5:1:3. After a full week from the moment of laying the perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Correctly observe the proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bath above the ground (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs will be supported by the logs. For larger sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support pillars for logs must be placed on a multilayer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the log, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewerage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

Solution floor covering in this case, it is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm foam can be laid between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation), a draft floor of 29 mm is attached to the underside of the logs edged board. Then a PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top we pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm grooved boards made of softwood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic Construction Materials- the condition is especially important for the steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain wastewater from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a sewage well and pipes that drain dirty water into the pit and then into the sewer well.

The pit is torn off outside the foundation of the bath, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it from the steam room and washing room (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, a 110 mm drain pipe (pipes) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drains, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the farther the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid under a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main sewage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully tamp each layer.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors and cold air will not enter the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To avoid freezing in winter period the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), lay felt between them, and top cover cover with expanded clay, slag or sawdust on top.

Shed, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers; its manufacture is quite difficult. The finished log house, disassembled, must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. Crowns are fastened with 25 mm steel spikes with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The design of the roof of the bath includes rafters, a crate is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (better to the penultimate one) with the help of staples-thorns. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of one or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Shed rafters, located at an angle, are fixed with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are interconnected, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap on the walls of at least 500 mm.

Attic space it is necessary to make it ventilated, i.e., equip it with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We carry out a blind area along the foundation perimeter: we completely remove the top layer of soil, deepen by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay the expansion joints (19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - dry cement is covered with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Caulker of a bath house

It is carried out for warming the log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt are traditionally used for caulking. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to moth and fungus damage, and it is easier to work with factory material, because it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of the log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a complete caulking is carried out - from the outside and inside log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house settles down - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet, you can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking spatula looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, handle thickness 30 mm, blade width at the base 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the impact part diameter is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is performed in two ways - “in a set” or “in a stretch”. In the second way, we caulk like this: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it in with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller around them and drive it into the groove with the help of a spatula and roller - with force, until we are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover grooves (slots) of large width. We twist the material for caulking with 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the slot. Loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only after that - along the bottom;
we start work on caulking from the slots of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

In no case do not caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the log house to skew, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Recall once again: caulking is performed in the direction "from bottom to top" along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the oven

There are many design options for sauna stoves, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated by electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. brick ovens in baths they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry joints must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying stoves. The firebox of the stove is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing room (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast-iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters installed for those who like to take a steam bath are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). But, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the chamber of the heater. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to cookers, heaters differ from them in a pipe of greater width or in the presence of a chamber with stones.

To get the most high temperature in the steam room, cast-iron ingots must be added to the stones at a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of a steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

If a distance of 40–50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close as possible to the roof ridge. When passing the chimney through the attic space, be sure to fluff the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near the roof sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

At least 8 liters are required for washing one bath user hot water. There are several ways to provide such an amount: heat a container of water on the stove, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath is led from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained into winter time otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for the supply of electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, stopping at two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a carrier cable. But it's extremely difficult to deal with him. installation work, because it is too thick (minimum cross section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of the bath according to fire safety standards, it is required to fasten it to special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed on a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on a wire insulated with plastic, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), pulled through the air to the bath, the optimal cross section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what kind of electrical equipment the owner of the dacha wants to power from it in the future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel must be outdoor installation only. According to the rules against fire safety it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bath should be done only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed to special clips, cable passage through partitions - only through steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal case, only glass cover. All connections of the internal wiring of the cable are only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of RCDs, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you yourself are not one!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

The internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, with subsequent heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually performed in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the decoration scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing exterior and interior decoration, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to carry out full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - draft and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing / steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the draft ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - lime, pine grooved board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bath, you need to arrange small windows (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that you can look out through them sitting on the bench. The windows in the bath are always double-glazed, depending on the size - with a window or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in the sauna rooms must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened to the dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, with increasing humidity, the sash will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size doors in the washing department of the bath - 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it is uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Doorknobs- wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. Minimum shelf length - 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling is 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the caps of which are sunk into the tree; bottom with screws. For fastening choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the design of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have a higher density and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and timber without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace furnace, make sure that the furnace doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure that you can freely open the doors of the steam room and washing room when kindling the bath. Do not block passages, the space in front of doors and windows.