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How to install a plastic window with your own hands - step by step instructions. How to fix plastic windows? How to put up a plastic window

When measuring, you need to take into account the type of opening - without a quarter or with a quarter, as well as its features and other elements in the form of a window sill and.

In the first option, you need to measure the clean opening vertically and horizontally.

In the second, they measure the horizontal distance between the quarters in the narrowest place, adding another 30 mm to the resulting figure. In the vertical plane, the net distance from the lower plane of the opening to its upper quarter is measured, which determines the height of the future glazing.

We carry out the necessary calculations

In order to place an order without a quarter, you need to not only measure the net distance between the surfaces of the window opening, but also calculate it optimal size in the following way.

To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical distance to get its required height, and from the horizontal 30 mm to calculate the width. These gaps allow for a 15 mm layer of foam around the perimeter of the window and 35 mm on the bottom.

An additional 50 mm is added to the measurements of the window sill and ebb for a margin for tie-in into the wall.

As a result, before going to the store and ordering components, you need to know six sizes: the height and width of the double-glazed window, the length and width of the window sill, the length and width of the ebb.

Preparation of tools, materials and components

Of the tools you need a standard set home master: screwdriver, level, puncher, hexagon set, jigsaw, knife, pencil and tape measure.

From the materials you need to purchase: mounting foam, silicone, putty, self-tapping screws or dowels, etc.

And, of course, the set of components for installing double-glazed windows: window profile, handles, fasteners, window sills, ebbs, etc.

Dismantling the old window

In the case of blind window frames, the glazing beads and the glass they hold are first pulled out. In the case of opening sashes, they are simply removed from the hinges along with the glazing. In the case when the structures are already many years old, and the frames in them are loose and “walk” diagonally, in order to avoid unnecessary problems and for safety, it is advisable to pull out the glazing from them in advance.
Further, in order to pull out the frame itself, it is sawn through in several places using an ordinary hacksaw saw. In some cases, this work is done with the help of a grinder with a circle on concrete.
Dividing the frame with cuts into several parts, they are separated with a crowbar, a chisel, a crowbar and a hammer from the window opening, to which they have “grown” during operation. In some cases, when a frame made of high quality wood is well preserved, it can be left untouched. But ideally, it must be dismantled so that the new glazing can be attached directly to the wall.
Using the same technology, a window sill that has served its purpose is removed, especially if it is made of wood. In the case of a concrete structure, it is crushed with a jackhammer, in its absence, you can get by with a crowbar and a sledgehammer. Again, if it is in good condition and there are no objective reasons to destroy it, this can be avoided. However, in this case, two things should be taken into account: firstly, the plastic structure is always warmer than the concrete one, therefore, if there is a lack of heat, it is better to mount it, and secondly, the old structure cannot physically provide good contact with a new frame.
After dismantling the intermediate elements, the wall bearing surfaces of the opening are inspected, cleaned of debris and repaired, if necessary, if necessary.

Preparing a new window

A new window, if there are opening sashes, must be securely locked before installation, so that it cannot accidentally open during manipulations with it. It must also be closed in the course of foaming, sealing cracks and fixing in the frame, otherwise its plastic ribs can be bent in a semicircle by foam expanding during solidification.

Before opening its shutters, it is necessary to withstand the time for complete drying of all fixing and insulating mixtures- at least 12 hours after completion of work.

Many beginners make the mistake of thinking that by removing the protective film from its plane immediately before starting work, they are preparing it for installation.

This is not the case, because this protection is most needed in order to avoid possible damage or contamination of the transparent coating during installation. Therefore, this tape can be removed only after all finishing works involving puttying, painting or installation of slopes.

Window installation

This operation begins with drawing markings on its frame for future fasteners, which are installed on all four sides of the frame with an interval of 700 mm. For light single structures, large intervals are also allowed, not exceeding one meter. In this case, the extreme fastener is mounted with an indent from its corner in the region of 50-150 mm. In terms of fasteners, double-glazed windows with a support profile are an exception; they do not need fixing elements from below.
Fasteners are installed on the frame according to the markup. They are connected to it so that the self-tapping screw passes through the metal located in the frame itself, the so-called bent metal channel. For this purpose, special self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4 mm are selected. They are already equipped with a drill tip. You can, of course, use simple 5 mm self-tapping screws, but in this case you will have to do double work, first drilling holes for them with a drill 4 mm in diameter, and then screwing them in. They are approximately equal in cost, but they are different in metal thickness, so plates are sold with a thickness of 1.1 to 1.5 mm, and suspensions from 0.5 to 1 mm.
At the intended mounting points of the fasteners, recesses are made on the window opening. This operation is not done by eye or approximately, but I apply it already equipped with clamps window frame to the installation site, and exactly along the perimeter of the fastener, a recess with a depth of 20 to 40 mm is knocked out, its “imprint” on the surface of the opening directly, but of the bearing material, be it stone or brick. The fixing elements will be immersed in these recesses flush with the opening.
The window is set in the opening according to the level, placing wooden chips under the frame where necessary. Such wedges can only be inserted opposite the transverse elements of the frame: under the horizontal strips at their intersection with the vertical ones and vice versa. Wedge installation procedure: two bottom and one top to adjust the bottom edge and the horizon top. Next, two at the top to fix the frame up and down. And then all the remaining wedges from the left to the right, and, of course, from both the bottom and top sides of the frame. In the case of an impost, it is also wedged in such a way that all sheer planks are strictly parallel to each other. Setting wedges takes the lion's share of the time of the entire installation process. But it is precisely this that will determine the correct positioning of the frame in the window opening both in the vertical and in the horizontal plane.
Fix the double-glazed window in the opening. After the position of the window is adjusted as ideally as possible, it can be fixed. To do this, use either dowels or anchors. The second option, of course, is more expensive, but it is also more reliable. In principle, a dowel installed in concrete is able to withstand a weight of up to 60 kg, which is more than enough for a window. Dowels for fixing in concrete, hollow brick, shell rock or foam concrete are used with a cross section of 6 to 8 mm and a length of 75 to 80 mm.
Finally, the gaps between the window opening and the frame installed in it are foamed in such a way that even the slightest voids do not remain between them. Foaming technology in the case of crevices over 20 mm involves carrying out this operation in several stages, with several layers of foam and breaks for 1-2 hours to dry each layer. In this case, it will be possible to minimize the deformation of the foam during its expansion, and reduce its useless waste, since the protruding edges would still have to be cut off. In the case when work is carried out at a temperature of less than 5 degrees Celsius, ordinary summer foam will not work, it is recommended to use its special type, winter or all-weather.

As a rule, the window sill part has a standard length and width with the necessary margin, which is cut off during the installation process according to the measurements of a specific window opening. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw with small teeth.

Further, the already cut part is adjusted to the stand profile, simultaneously exposing it strictly according to the level, using the same technology as the window system itself. It is advisable to place the plugs on the window sill so that they fit into the opening in the wall. It is better to fasten them with special glue, and not rely on silicone or acrylic, which are not intended for this.

Thus, in the end, the window sill element must be installed strictly on the level, so that a glass full of water can be placed on it without spilling it. It should not sag or bend in any place, even with strong pressure by hand.

In some cases, the window sill is mounted with a slight, less than 3 degrees slope towards the street, which is necessary so that the condensate that occurs on the glass does not accumulate, but runs down the inclined window sill to the ground.

After completing the adjustment and fixing, you can fill the gap under the window sill with foam, and for the time it dries, about 12 hours, so that the foam does not lift it, you need to put something on it, for example, several bottles of water.

After about a day, when the foam has completely solidified, its protruding edge is cut off with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation, a gap is formed between its upper plane and the glazing frame. It must be filled with silicone, which tends to blacken with mold over time, which will undoubtedly spoil the look of a snow-white window.

Therefore, it is better not to hide such a defect, but to try to prevent its occurrence even at the installation stage. This is done very simply - Z-shaped plates of galvanized sheet are screwed to the plastic profile until it is fixed. In addition, such additional details facilitate the exposure of the window sill.

Installation of slopes and platbands

Along the inner perimeter of the window, wooden slats are mounted on screws 95 mm long. With the help of a square and a level, the position is also controlled.
They install the U-shaped starting profile on the so-called bugs - very small self-tapping screws screwed directly into the frame. It is in this profile that the slopes will be inserted, therefore, during its installation, special care is required in the operation of connecting its outer edges.
With the help of a stapler, an F-shaped profile is fastened. The groove of this profile corresponds to the groove of the previous one, and it is on them that the slopes will be held.
When the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profile, the slopes themselves are inserted into them.
At the final stage, platbands are successively installed on the plastic slopes: one upper and two side ones. To dock with each other, their edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Hardware adjustment

The position of the flaps is adjusted by means of hexagons located near the hinges. To do this, use either a hex bit on a screwdriver, a screwdriver or a miniature wrench. Thus, in the process of their rotation, they achieve such a position of the window sashes, which would allow them to easily open and close without causing harm to other elements of the system.

It is also not considered the norm when an ajar sash closes itself or vice versa, a closed one opens.

They must remain in a constant position. Often in the process of opening or closing there is excessive friction with locking fittings, accompanied by corresponding sounds. To get rid of this, simply unscrew the screw that fixes the corresponding fittings and move it up or down by 0.5-1 cm.

Installation of ebbs

Usually ebbs are fixed at the end of all installation work. It is better to mount them under the window itself, so as to prevent water from flowing into the gap between it and the frame. However, sometimes this cannot be done, and the ebb is screwed directly to its frame onto small self-tapping screws for metal with a cross section of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.

Let's calculate the costs.
Time and money spent on self-installation.

Do-it-yourself window installation technology involves two operations, dismantling the old glazing and installing a new one, which in time corresponds to about 30-90 minutes to pull the old glazing out of the opening and about 2 hours to install a new double-glazed window of medium size, that is, up to 2x2 meters.

Thus, it will take from 2.5 to 3.5 hours to replace the glazing in one window opening, which is quite a bit. Indeed, with such a pace of work, even in one day off, you can independently change the glazing in several openings.

This time will not be wasted, because by doing this work with your own hands you can be sure of the quality of the installation, and besides, save decent money because the master will require payment from 2000 to 4000 rubles for each glazed opening.

Often, when ordering from some company that also provides installation services, the price for this procedure is charged as a percentage of 10 to 40% of the cost of the double-glazed windows themselves.

Should you install windows yourself?

There are no difficulties in installing plastic profiles on your own, as they have an almost ready-to-use, modular design that does not require the assembly of individual parts. For insertion and fixing, which in the window opening does not require any special technical education or expensive equipment.

Please note that installation is carried out at your own risk. which means you need to independently measure, select and order all components and materials.

The supplier's guarantee, accordingly, will only apply to the double-glazed window and fittings, and only the private person who installed it is responsible for the quality of the seams, their filling, the verticality and horizontality of all parts, as well as the actual performance of the window.

If the order was made in the assembly organization, it provides a full guarantee for materials and quality of installation from one to 5 years.

However, if you have at least a couple of days off, diligence and the desire to save money, you can change the glazing in your own house on your own, doing this work no worse than the whole installation team. In this case, the team is understood as the master who actually mounts the window profile and his assistant, who gives him the tools.

Thus, when carrying out work independently, it is enough just to call someone to help a relative, acquaintance or friend, and in the speed of glazing it will be possible to compete with professionals, and the cost of paying someone else's labor will be zero.

Common Mistakes

When non-professionals install a double-glazed window for the first time on their own, they often make a number of common mistakes that, at first glance, may not be obvious and uncritical, but, ultimately, affect the life and comfort of operation of the window structure:

The profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, which makes the house absolutely defenseless for the penetration of unauthorized persons. To do this, it is enough for them to remove the glazing beads and simply pull the double-glazed windows out of the openings.
Installation is done as is., that is, without checking and adjusting the level, resulting in problems with the functioning of the structure.
Foaming the cracks with a can of foam, do not read the instructions for it, which says about its vulnerability to ultraviolet radiation. So, in order for it to be preserved intact, the gaps with it must be covered with lining.
Fixing the structure simply by foaming the slots without any fixing it in the opening. Such an error in the case of an opening with a quarter can, in extreme cases, lead to cracking of the slopes, since the foam does not guarantee the immobility of the frame, which, when displaced, will break them. In the case of an opening without a quarter, a double-glazed window may eventually fall out into the street under the influence of vibration or other factors.

Not recommended for dismantling any wooden structures, and in particular the old frame, use a metal cutter, as it is not suitable for this. Such a thin disc, rotating at a speed of 7000 rpm, can easily get stuck or deformed on the first knot, which is extremely dangerous for the operator and others. This is also true for a toothed disk on a tree.
So that someone from the household does not accidentally spoil the work, having accidentally opened the sash at the stage of foam hardening, it is best to simply not install the opening handle at this time, without it, even out of ignorance it will not be possible to open it, and in the case of blind frames, this nuance is not at all relevant.

Plastic windows have become so popular not only because of their operational and technical characteristics, but also due to simple process installation. Even at home, without special skills in construction, installation plastic windows do-it-yourself is quite feasible, due to the fact that the factory equipment includes additional parts for fasteners, and the installation rules are simple.

In order to insert plastic windows with your own hands, it is enough to follow the recommendations of experts, be patient and invite a reliable person as an assistant.

Window measurements and pre-purchase calculations

Before buying a plastic window, you should perform the most thorough measurements of the window opening.. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the presence or absence of a quarter in it. This feature will play an important role in the calculation of heat loss, and therefore in the consumption of material for the production of windows. The fact is that openings with a quarter are usually used in foam concrete buildings, they significantly reduce the loss of thermal energy. If the window opening is without a quarter, the window should be less than the opening by 5 cm in length and 3 cm in width. As a result, you will get gaps along the contour, which will be foamed, 1.5 cm at the top, right and left, and 3.5 cm at the bottom, where you will install the window sill. According to GOST, gaps around the perimeter can be 2.0 cm. Due to this, the finishing of the opening before installing plastic windows is greatly simplified.

When calculating the size of a window for an opening with a quarter, the measurement at the narrowest point is taken as the basis, and 3 cm is added to the width. The length is not taken into account.

Place the plastic window inside the opening should be 1/3 deep relative to the plane outside . However, for those who want to do this work with their own hands, this condition is not important: you can make a shift in any direction. The main thing is to take this circumstance into account in the calculations prior to installation, and when ordering window sills with external ebbs, add 5 cm to the width of these elements for each.

The location directly affects the preliminary calculations of the width of the window sill. The radiator can only be half covered. Another 2 cm should be added as an allowance necessary in order to get the window sill under the base of the window. A margin is also made in length: a minimum of 8 cm, a maximum of 15, so that there is the possibility of additional processing of this element. Thus, the subsequent finishing of the slopes will not be difficult.

When buying a window, you will be offered plastic side plugs. Be sure to take them: they will surely come in handy.

How do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows will be carried out depends on two elements: the size of the double-glazed window and the material used in the construction of the wall. It is on the basis of these indicators that fastener elements and the method by which the window will be installed are selected before installation.

Fixing a plastic window is carried out in two ways:

using dowels or mounting anchors that are inserted inside the walls through holes drilled in the profile;
toothed plates pressed into the surface of the profile, installed by surprise and fixed with screws.

The first method is considered the most reliable and in order to install large window systems with a lot of weight. Through fastening will provide good resistance to impact loads, which will often occur when using both inward and outward opening casement glazing units. In addition, anchors that pass through the frame will provide the most accurate adjustment of the do-it-yourself structure in the horizontal and vertical direction. If you want to install small PVC windows with blank double-glazed windows, use anchor plates for fixing. Installation of slopes and subsequent finishing will reliably hide them, so the aesthetic appearance of the window will not be spoiled.

Before installing the anchor plates in the opening, make small indentations under them. This saves you the hassle of leveling the surface before you start installing the interior slopes.

Often, when installing a structure, specialists use these two methods, combining them with each other. To do this, the anchors are driven into the wall through the base and sides of the frame when the top is secured with plates.

Standards for the installation of plastic windows

When installing a metal-plastic structure in a window opening with your own hands, the use of mounting foam is a prerequisite. This material will give the frame-opening connection the necessary rigidity, provide additional fastening and perform the function of an insulator. So that the layer of mounting foam does not lose its technical abilities over time, insulating strips are glued to it: from the outside - with a waterproofing effect, from the inside - with a vapor barrier. Since wood has the ability to pass steam, it is recommended to lay foil insulation around the perimeter of the wooden box.

The time of the year in which the installation of plastic windows will be carried out is chosen by the owner. Often, experts recommend with their own hands in winter: this allows you to immediately identify possible flaws. When choosing mounting foam, pay special attention to the instructions. In it you will find data on the temperature values \u200b\u200bat which the composition will harden faster, as well as a description of how to properly foam. Usually this process is carried out from the bottom up, blowing the foam is carried out several times in small segments of 25 cm - this will help to avoid unnecessary consumption of material, which is not cheap.

We prepare the window opening before the installation of the structure

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows implies complete cleanliness of the prepared surface. That is, the opening from the inside must be freed from residues coatings, dust or debris. In the event that a plastic window is mounted in a box of wood that has already been used, the outer layer should be cut off, or completely removed if you think that it may peel off after the mounting foam dries.

Pay attention to the dimensions of the gaps between the opening and the frame. If they are more than 4 cm, then filling them with only foam will not only be very expensive, but also of poor quality. In such cases, it is better to use for partial filling with scraps of timber, foam or drywall.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

To begin with, the frame should be released from the sashes by carefully removing the pin located in the upper loop. To do this, use a screwdriver and pliers, these are the most suitable tools for DIY work. Then remove the sash from the lower hinge, slightly lifting. If the window is deaf, the double-glazed window is removed from it by first removing the longitudinal, and then the transverse glazing beads. To remove the glazing bead, take a spatula, insert it into the gap, move it slowly to avoid damaging the glass surface.

A small plastic window can be installed without removing the double-glazed windows. To do this, it is enough to use mounting plates.

Put the removed structural elements on, previously covered with soft thick cloth or cardboard, leaning against the wall at a slight angle. Do not lay the double-glazed window flat. Any, even the smallest interference under the base, can subsequently lead to the formation of cracks in the double-glazed window, the curvature of the slopes and other defects.

Now remove the protective film from the frame. It is recommended to do this immediately, otherwise you will have to face certain difficulties later.

Mark places for fastenings with a step of no more than 40 cm, retreating from the impost and corners by 15 cm. When using mounting plates, first fix them with self-tapping screws on the frame surface.

We install a plastic window in the prepared opening

Do-it-yourself installation and fixing of plastic windows with your own hands requires attention and accuracy. Therefore, follow it step by step, strictly adhering to the recommendations.

Lay spacers along the perimeter of the opening - bars or plastic corners that will provide a technological gap. Insert the frame, strictly aligning it in the horizontal and vertical direction, tracing the uniformity of the side gaps. In order to control the position of the frame, use a plumb bob and spirit level.

After there is no doubt about the correct installation of the frame, proceed to its fastening.

If the walls of the house are built of wood, screw (not all the way) the screws through the holes located in the frame.

Before attaching the frame to concrete or brick wall, it is necessary to mark points for fasteners through the holes on the surface of the frame, remove the frame and make recesses with a drill into which the fasteners will be baited.

In the case of mounting using anchor plates, bend them so that they fit snugly against the anchor point. The finishing of slopes following the installation of PVC windows will require precision.

Make the final fixing of the window: carefully tighten the screws, making sure that the hat does not protrude more than 1 mm above the level of the double-glazed window frame.

Insert all dismantled elements in reverse order, check how fully the structure as a whole functions.

Seal the gaps left and cover the seams with protective tape from the outside and from the inside.

The space under the drainage for slopes should also be filled with mounting foam. Fasten it to the bottom profile of the frame with self-tapping screws, with an inclination relative to the window surface. This finish will avoid rattling during rain.

After the mounting foam polymerizes, install the window sill, bringing it under the sweet clover by 2 cm. Foam the space under it, this will provide a slight slope.

Immediately, or a maximum of three days after the installation of plastic windows, install the slopes.

Before you start such work as finishing slopes with plastic, stock up on the following:

strip plastic material about 10 mm thick;
p-shaped profile, which will serve as a start;
F-profile;
wooden lath 10-15 mm thick and 40-50 mm wide;
soft texture insulation.

Finishing slopes is carried out as follows.

Attach the starting profile along the outer edge of the frame with self-tapping screws. At the junction of the inner walls at the point of vertical and horizontal connection of the starting profile, there should be no gaps. Then mount the rail around the perimeter of the opening: it should not protrude beyond the wall surface.

The F-profile is made from a plastic strip and fastened with a stapler to the edge of the rail closest to the wall. The slope panel will be inserted into the groove.

inside plastic profile acrylic sealant is placed and a pre-prepared panel is inserted. The gap is evenly filled with insulating material. The outer balance of the workpiece is brought into an F-shaped profile. In the same way, blanks are mounted on the sides of the frame. After installing the panels, the overlaps are carefully cut. Joints are degreased and filled liquid plastic. Carefully remove all excess. On this, the work on finishing the slopes with plastic is completed.

When all work on the installation of a plastic window is completed, it is not recommended to use the structure for 16 hours, so that the seams remaining after installation dry out and do not lose their integral qualities, and the cladding is not damaged.

As you can see, installing plastic windows and finishing the slopes on your own is a task that is feasible even for a beginner. These recommendations will help you not only do all the work yourself, but also control the process of installing plastic windows if you decide to seek the services of an installation team.

Reading 7 min.

More recently, in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings, only wooden window frames were used. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern ones. metal-plastic structures. Indeed, in addition to high performance, they are much cheaper than wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you do not need to have superpowers. Almost anyone who can hold a tool in their hands will cope with such a task.

However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, loose fit and high throughput of street air into the apartment.

To avoid the above points, in this article we present step by step instructions, which will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you still decide to trust professionals, know that some of them are not really like that, and for a number of reasons they openly neglect separate stages proper installation (some save time, others save money). Having an idea about the ongoing work, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And later you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.

The main steps for installing new windows:

taking measurements;
dismantling of old windows;
preparation of openings;
assembly of a metal-plastic structure.

Not everyone knows that the manufacturer does not give absolutely no guarantee for their services in case of windows installation. on their own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, you should not rely on a refund or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are made strictly according to predetermined dimensions. In the event of your mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or it may turn out to be much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The employees of the company are solely responsible for the implementation of each of the stages of installation of the product.

Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all the advantages of a modern design and the expected level of comfort.

window measurements

When performing the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with and without a quarter. Accordingly, they have different formulas for calculating sizes.

For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the figures obtained - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check that the largest distance between vertical quarters should not exceed the calculated block width.

Read also: Valve supply ventilation for plastic windows for micro-ventilation of premises

The height is determined by measuring between the top quarter and the bottom surface of the window opening.

If the window opening is without a quarter, the desired values \u200b\u200bcan be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical size (to put the window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal.

When determining the size of the window sill and low tide, it is worth considering the following details:

Often the size of the window sill is chosen based on its functionality. He must cover heating batteries and indoor flowers should be placed on it;
The window sill is taken along the length of the window opening exceeding 8-10 cm, its edges should be drowned in the slope cavity by approximately 4-5 cm;
The dimensions of the ebb are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.

Features of measuring balcony windows

When calculating the width balcony windows the length of the parapet is taken as the basis, it is on it that the whole structure will lean. Also, on both sides, it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for installation corner profile, with the help of it the window blocks of the front and side parts are connected. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of a difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for fastening gaps, will be the height.

Regarding the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width for mounting the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.

Features of measuring windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund

When measuring windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund, it is recommended to first beat off part of the slopes on both sides (in the measurement areas). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is like. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various heaters that can crumble in the process of disassembling an existing window. The positive thing here is that the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleared window opening.

Ordering a metal-plastic window

Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of double-glazed window is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chamber. As for fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.

FROM technical specifications plastic windows that will be preferable for your home, consultants of the manufacturer's company will help you figure it out already at the time of ordering.

Some important points during installation

When installing windows on your own, you should pay attention to the following:

metal-plastic construction must be well fixed;
the mounting foam, which fixed the windows, must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent its subsidence and deformation of the frame in the future);
it is very important to set the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help to avoid warping).

How to install metal-plastic windows with your own hands

Before starting the installation, prepare everything you need for work:

Window frame with fasteners;
Building level;
Mounting foam;
mount;
Bulgarian;
Windowsill.

The process of preparing the window block

Preparing the window is an important stage in the installation work that you do with your own hands. If necessary, the double-glazed windows themselves and swing sashes are dismantled from the window structure. To release the double-glazed window, a chisel is used, it is very carefully necessary to pick up the glazing bead (fastening) and after a light blow on the tool it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The released glazing beads will need to be marked, sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The double-glazed window will come out of the grooves on its own if you tilt the frame a little. Gently lean it against the wall, creating a slight angle.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely free the window opening and the space next to it:

remove everything from the windowsill,
take down the curtains
free the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through an extension cord, prepare garbage bags.

Dismantling the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The shutters are removed from the window. dismantled window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock down) slopes.

The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you wish to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of keeping the old windows when ordering.

The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed to anchor bolts or mounting plates. At the same time, it should be strictly observed that the frame should be level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be set vertically to the level). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with mounting foam. The foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastener. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam must be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and it is necessary to take into account the degree of expansion of the foam.

Installing a plastic window in most cases implies that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when in an apartment (house, room) repair work and the window sill can be installed by yourself.

If the mounted window opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will require restoration (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new tide.

The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, laying or sealing the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill (window sill), it is controlled that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is not more than 60 mm.

When installing a window sill, it should be taken into account that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be borne in mind that the window sill is "recessed" by 2 cm under the window frame, so the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, for finishing the opening lacks slopes (which are both a decorative addition under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, besides, this is the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day with a window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

As slopes, either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable casings is used.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. Choice plastic slopes VEKA is justified for more accurate wallpapering with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: if you have a repair in your apartment, then it is better to install the architraves on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after wallpapering yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing window accessories

At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation of additional accessories, fastening of additional fittings and accessories, such as: a stepped ventilator, a clamp, mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an act of acceptance and delivery of work is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing the PVC window.

Plastic window functionality is much better than old wooden windows. If follow simple instructions for its care and operation, it will serve you forever.

Do not forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
The removal of the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be carried out after the installation of the products and the finishing of the mounting opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If repairs are still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General requirements for installation according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General specifications» was put into effect by the order of the Gosstroy of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.

Due to the need to correct project documentation for design and construction organizations, the transitional period for the development of GOST is set until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan joined the Russian norms.

What's new? The new norms bring a significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Instructions for the installation of windows”, approved by local authorities, the need to develop installation window assemblies for each facility under construction and the coordination of assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and it is also provided for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acts of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.

Of particular interest in the norms are the Applications:

Annex A (recommended) is drawings with examples of window installation;
Annex B (recommended) puts forward requirements for fastening windows in openings;
Annex B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and, in fact, is the main working document;
Annex D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (analysis of isotherms).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires a large number of formalities from window companies and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams as a whole is justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, which you need to pay close attention to.

Three layers of seam seal

The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “the inside is denser than the outside”. Each mounting unit must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. Can be used different materials for outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one version or another, these three termination planes must be present.

outer layer It is designed to protect the insulation layer from the penetration of moisture into it, and must have vapor permeability so that there is ventilation of the insulation through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. The best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before it is installed in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the gaps in the quarter in the opening.

With serious advantages: optimal building physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction, when the opening has a good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plaster, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not fall on PSUL.

In a limited form, it is possible to use silicone on the outside. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint being filled, and the silicone should be glued only on both sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating a mounting seam. Although it is not clearly spelled out in GOST, there is also no ban on its use, no matter how much supporters of mounting tapes would like. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anointing with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.

Central layer- heat-insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams designed specifically for installing windows. Such foams evenly fill the seam and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. Other foams, after installation, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

The inner layer- vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes are used, mainly based on butyl, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture-resistant drywall. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

A mounting seam is a node where wall and window structures are docked, which have completely different properties, including in terms of heat engineering. And it is important to execute the nodes in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of the past (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low resistance to heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensate falls on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here one should carefully consider the heat engineering of the junction points.

An important recommendation - in the absence of quarters, use window frames with a minimum width of 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the casing are possible only if there is external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.

When present in the wall effective insulation (mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam) the window should either be in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not occur due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by sunlight, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As calculated values of thermal expansion for windows white color should be applied 1.5 mm per 1 running meter, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the outer fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from the inner corners of the frames. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch for white profiles of no more than 70 cm, for colored profiles no more than 60 cm. Fasteners are also placed near imposts at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of the windows and to the fact that it is very difficult to evenly fill a thinner seam with foam insulation.

Bearing pads are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one rotary sash, the blocks are placed on the opposite side of the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two wings, four blocks are placed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of the junctions of window frames to the walls

1 - window sill;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block under the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower node);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise-absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant with a thin layer

1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - panel for finishing the inner slope;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing for the entire floor height. These are the three basic principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on the various wall designs and on the materials used to seal the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - the responsible and high-quality work of the installers.

Deviations from vertical and horizontal

According to GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions”, p.p. 5.6.4 Deviations from the vertical and horizontal of the mounted window blocks should not exceed 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm for the height of the product.

In the updated version of GOST 30971 of 2012, the maximum deviations of the window and door block from the vertical and horizontal levels are the same (clause 5.2.4) - no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, and no more than 3 mm for the height of the entire product.

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow law No. 42 "On silence", disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our noisy work instructions in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The mounting seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, when using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or another will affect the phasing (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.

Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows

Previously, houses were installed only wooden windows, but in our time they produce not only wooden ones, but also.

And in modern world people often began to install plastic windows in their houses or apartments. So you, at some point, decided that wooden windows no longer hold heat so well, freeze through and look, let's say, not very attractive, and for this reason you decided to change wooden windows to plastic ones.

Installation of plastic windows is not easy, so this work is best left to specialists. But, if you are sure that you are able to install windows yourself or you have some experience in installing such windows, then you can install windows yourself.

That's just how to properly install a plastic window, we will tell further.

The positive quality of installing plastic windows on your own is that you will do it more carefully than many specialized workers. Still, if you do not have the skills to install such windows and have never seen how they do it, then it is best to use the services of specialized workers.

When is the best time to install plastic windows?

Installation of plastic windows can be carried out in winter time, but in the event that the outside air temperature is not less than minus five degrees. Otherwise, you need to install a special heat shield.

window measurement

Before purchasing a new plastic window, you need to make measurements of the window opening and, according to the data received, buy a finished window or place an order for window manufacturing. When you order a window according to your size, it will fit perfectly into the opening of your window accordingly.

The window should not fit tightly into the opening, there should be a small gap between the window and the opening, as it needs to expand or contract, this will depend on temperature changes.

clearance requirements

The minimum dimensions of the gaps should be:

Window up to 1m 20 cm indent should be 15 mm;
Window up to 2 m 20 cm indentation is 20 mm;
Window up to 3 m indent is 25mm.

When you replace a window, you need to take into account that the window should only fit into the window opening by a certain number of centimeters. This is necessary so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall and in order to make slopes.

All measurements were taken, all the nuances were taken into account, and as a result, the required size of the window profile was obtained. Now you can go to the company and order a window or take a ready-made one that suits your parameters.

Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening

After you have already bought a window and the weather allows its installation, then you can do its installation. It must be borne in mind that all work will be quite dusty, so it is better to remove all things or cover with a film.

After you've done everything preparatory work start dismantling the old window, and in order to remove the old window, use a chisel, pry bar and hammer.

Before installing a plastic window, it is necessary to clean the window opening well from dirt and moisten it a little.

Then you can start preparing the window for installation.

Installing a plastic window

Before installing the window profile, the sashes are removed from the window and the double-glazed windows are removed from the deaf parts of the window. Then it is necessary to peel off the protective tapes outside the profile and install the protective caps in the drain holes. We fasten fasteners for mosquito nets on self-tapping screws.

Profile insulation

If you decide to make anchors as fasteners, then the profile is drilled through and therefore the chambers are depressurized. Also, fastening windows to anchors requires more labor and skill, and for this reason, such fastening is not suitable for beginners. If the profile is not fixed correctly, it can lead, and if it does, the window will be damaged.

But anchoring also has positive qualities, for example, the design will be durable. But the negative quality of the mounting plates is that they do not provide good structural strength. But mounting plates are the easiest way to fix plastic windows. Very often, specialists use both types of mounts.

Usually we start fastening from the corner and at a distance of 120-150 mm we make the first fastener and then with a distance of 700 mm we make the next fastener. Three fasteners are installed on each side.
Before installing the profile in the opening, it is necessary to check all planes with a level, then with the help of wooden bars it is necessary to raise the profile and adjust it vertically.
It is necessary to start vertically from the top of the window opening and raise the profile from below using the materials described above. The next step is to align the profile horizontally. Fixing the profile in the opening on the side and top is made of wooden blades. After you have done alignment on all sides, you need to make a profile and if everything is in order, then you can fix it.
If you fix the window profile to the mounting plates, then they are first fixed to one dowel nail. The next step is to check the window profile using a level, and only after that mounting plate fix the second dowel with a nail.
In the event that the windows are attached to the anchor, then through the holes that were previously made and then using a special tool, make holes in the wall and screw the anchor in without tightening them.
The anchors are not tightened in order to check the window installation level, and only then can the anchors be tightened, but very slowly so as not to disturb the balance of the profile. When the profile is fixed, we remove the wooden blades from the sides and top, and the lower blades remain, because they are the basis of the window profile.

How to install ebbs on plastic windows?

The next step of the work is the installation of the ebb.

We measure it and cut it out with metal scissors right size, then a special tape is glued at the bottom of the frame, it is needed to protect the seam between the wall and bottom window.

After the tape is glued, a layer is applied to it. Also, a layer of mounting foam is applied to the edge of the slab, this is necessary in order to ensure the sealing of the ebb. The ebb must go into the grooves of the profile and is attached with self-tapping screws.

Seam sealing

Then, with mounting foam, we close the seam between the wall and the window (first from one side, then from the other and from above). After the foam has dried, another insulation tape is glued on top of it. FROM inside windows, it is necessary to remove the protective tape and use special linings when installing the double-glazed window.

With the help of the slats, they hold the double-glazed window, drive the slats into the grooves and install the sash, fix it in the canopies, then fix the handle and adjust the sash horizontally and vertically. After all work, a mosquito net is installed.

How to install a window sill on plastic windows?

After all the work, we begin the installation of the window sill.

First, we fill the lower mounting seam well with foam, and a tape is glued on top of it.
Then they install wooden blocks on which the window sill will be attached.
Wooden blocks must be at least ten centimeters. Also, the window sill should be tilted five degrees towards the room, and the window sill should not obscure the battery.
It is necessary to check whether the window sill is securely attached and it is necessary to solder it from below and, best of all, with mounting foam.

In this article, we talked about how to install a plastic window and we hope that this information was useful to you. Good luck and be patient!