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The procedure for insulating the ceiling in a wooden house. We insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with our own hands

Wooden house - the design itself is warm. That is why many city dwellers part with cramped apartments and move to a suburban home. Buildings made of wood are convenient and practical, as well as environmentally friendly. In summer, pleasant coolness reigns here, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and wind: you cannot do without a ceiling insulation of a wooden room.

Often, all the heat loss from the inside is due to an improperly finished ceiling. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you can not wait in winter time coziness and comfort. Won't help modern windows and wall insulation, it all depends on the ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house?

There are several available and simple ways insulation from the inside and outside with their own hands. All of them are divided into two options: insulation from the outside from the attic side and indoors. When insulating the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height may decrease. If the attic floor is insulated, after all the work it is necessary to make a floor covering.

When insulating, it is necessary to pay attention to the following indicators: strength, safety, sound insulation, fire resistance

Choosing desired material, you need to focus on the following indicators:

strength and durability;
no harm to health;
fire resistance;
reliable thermal insulation qualities;
the presence of sound insulation.

What can be applied?

mineral or glass wool;
sawdust;
polyurethane foam;
Styrofoam;
clay;
expanded clay.

Use of sawdust

are the cheapest and accessible way insulation from the outside, while their qualities are not inferior to expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done by hand. First you need to prepare the materials:

several bags of sawdust;
insulating material. It is necessary to calculate its required amount. To do this, you need to know the surface area exactly;
cement.

A mixture of sawdust and cement for ceiling insulation

The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to correctly calculate the required number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water will be required for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will be a heater.. What should be sawdust? The first ones that come across are no good. The material must meet the following requirements:

dryness, lack of moisture;
age not less than a year;
absence of mold and its smell;
the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.

The mixture of sawdust should be evenly distributed over the surface of the ceiling

Sequencing:

Clean the surface from dust and dirt.
Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and ceiling from fungi and insects.
Take the pre-prepared material for waterproofing and spread it over the entire floor space.
Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a rich gray color.
Distribute the mixture throughout the space of the interceiling ceiling.
You can walk on the layer of thermal insulation to tamp it down. This will allow the mixture to grab better and keep the heat out.

If there is access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest. If you have to insulate the ceiling in wooden house only from the inside, you have to choose another method.

What are the advantages of roll materials?

Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other roll insulation, reliably protect the room, but it is difficult to work with them: small particles crumble and get into the mouth, nose, eyes. To avoid injury, take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing and goggles.

Scheme of ceiling insulation with rolled materials, mats and bulk materials

The sequence of steps:

Nails are stuffed onto the rough surface. At the same time, it is necessary to score not on the hat, but so that they stick out a little. Then threads are pulled over them using the zigzag technique.
The heater itself is installed. It is better to do the work not alone, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls, and the other will pull the thread. So the glass wool will be able to push through better.
An anti-condensation film is attached.
Now you can nail the nails harder to press the layer more tightly.
You can nail drywall sheets or fix a false ceiling.

Attention: the work requires care and attention. It is necessary to monitor the absence of cracks: they are a source of cold and condensation.

Clay

A well-known material that is able to retain heat. Used only when adding other materials. Usually sawdust and glassine are added.

Clay perfectly retains heat, therefore it is used for insulation.

Sequence of work:

lay glassine or any other analogue thereof;
mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
apply the mixture in a layer of 15 cm, allow to dry. If there are cracks, they need to be rubbed with clay.

Warming from the inside

What to do if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, you should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease somewhat. Now the insulation will be from the inside. How to carry out work?

It's simple: first comes a layer of vapor barrier, then insulation, then another layer of vapor barrier.

Why are two layers needed? They prevent the dampness of the rafters, the ceiling from the inside and the insulation. Only after that you can already hem the decorative ceiling. How to do the work?

The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. The same parchment will do. It can be smeared with glue in several places.
A mounting rail is stuffed through the vapor barrier. It is better not to rush and do everything as carefully as possible: holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the mounting rails, then you need to carefully tighten them with a screwdriver.
Thermal insulation is fixed. Styrofoam is inserted between the rails.
The second layer of the vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
The entire structure is masked by PVC panels.

Expanded clay

Another most simple and affordable method after sawdust. Pros:

ecologicaly clean;
unlike sawdust, it does not burn;
resistant to temperature changes;
not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
simple installation technology;
low price;
easy to do by hand.

Expanded clay insulation scheme

All work is done outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. Even a simple PVC film will do. It is better not to use roofing material: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:

The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-combustible materials. Sheets of iron or metal pipes are suitable.
Waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area. Joints need to be processed. Waterproofing is securely fixed with a stapler or special adhesive tape.
Vapor barrier is laid. Suitable overlapping technology. Then everything is fixed with a stapler.
5 cm of mashed soft clay should be laid on the vapor barrier layer.
Expanded clay is already poured onto the clay. How to determine the layer thickness? It can be from 15 cm or more.
A screed is laid on the expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand. This will protect the material.

There is a foam ceiling tiles- it in itself protects quite well from the cold.
Do not stop at the insulation of the ceiling. Walls and floors can also transmit heat.
If there are difficulties in warming with your own hands, it is better to contact the masters who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling is practically of no use.
Drywall filing requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this needed? If this is not done, you can soon suffer from a fallen structure.
In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by autumn and cold weather, excess moisture has time to evaporate.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, all the work should be done immediately upon settlement.

Ceilings in private houses are usually made of wood: beams are laid, and then they are knocked out from below with a board. If the house does not have a heated attic, the ceiling in the building must be insulated. Yes, and when equipping a living room in the attic, laying a floor with something will not hurt. After all, most, among other things, can also serve as excellent sound insulators.

Material selection

So, let's see how to insulate the house. And first, let's figure out which type of insulator is best to choose in a particular case. Typically, floors in suburban buildings are insulated:

mineral wool;
polystyrene foam;
sawdust;
expanded clay.

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

This heat insulator is currently the most popular and is used most often in private homes. Its main advantages include:

Low cost.
Ease of installation.
High heat-preserving qualities.
Insulation of the ceiling in the house with this material allows, among other things, to improve the soundproofing properties of the floors.
Durability.
Fire resistance.

The disadvantages of this material include:

The ability to accumulate moisture and at the same time lose some of its thermal insulation qualities.
Not too high degree of environmental cleanliness.

Styrofoam

This material is also an excellent answer to the question of how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. It is a lightweight environmentally friendly plate. Although they are made using a slightly different technology, they look very similar to the well-known polystyrene. They differ from the latter in that they practically do not crumble and retain heat much better. Expanded polystyrene serves much longer than polystyrene. Unlike mineral wool, this material is not afraid of moisture at all. Its main advantage over the basalt insulator is its smaller thickness with the same heat-preserving qualities.

Its disadvantages include only a rather high cost and flammability. In addition, it is strongly not recommended to use this material if there are rodents in the house. Mice simply love to make passages and holes in foamy materials.

Expanded clay

This material is also very often used to insulate a wooden ceiling in a private house. Expanded clay is a special porous granules made from clay. The material is very inexpensive and retains heat well. Its main advantage is that it can last much longer than any other insulation. Not afraid of expanded clay and water. In addition, it is very durable and fire resistant.

Sawdust

The main advantages of this bulk material are absolute environmental friendliness and low weight. Ceiling insulation with sawdust is very inexpensive. At sawmills, this material is sold literally for a penny, and sometimes even given away for free. The disadvantages of sawdust include, first of all, a very high degree of fire risk. In addition, they can dry out or begin to rot. As with Styrofoam, mice or rats can get into them.

Insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house with mineral wool

When insulating the ceiling from the attic side, this material is laid as follows:

In a building under construction, the ceiling itself is stuffed onto the beams from below. edged board. If the house is old and there are already floors in the attic, a cellular frame should be mounted on them.
A vapor barrier is laid between the beams. You can use either polyethylene or foil material. The latter option is more expensive, but performs its function much better. In addition, the foil is able to reflect heat back into the room. Therefore, such materials, in addition to everything else, are also able to additionally retain heat. On the existing attic floors in old houses, the vapor barrier is laid before installing the frame under the slabs.
At the next stage, the mineral wool itself is mounted. They lay her down. That is, the step between the beams should be slightly less than the width of the plates. This allows you to arrange the maximum effective insulation. You need to start laying cotton wool from the corner farthest from the door. In order to make it convenient to walk on the floor, it is worth laying the attic with strips of plywood.
A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the mineral wool if the attic is not supposed to be insulated in the future. If the roof is waterproofed with a film, this stage can be skipped.
Next, the finishing floor of the attic is stuffed.

In exactly the same way, a wooden ceiling is insulated in a brick or poured concrete. If there is a chimney in the attic, the plates are superimposed on it to a height of 40-50 cm and fixed.

Mounting from the inside

Next, let's see how to insulate the wooden ceiling in the house with mineral wool from the side of the living room. Most often, the material in this case is installed simultaneously with the pre-assembled metal carcass under drywall. The distance between its constituent profiles is usually 40 cm. Mineral wool slabs have a width of 50-120 cm. Therefore, installation is carried out using the "accordion" method. Cotton wool is simply slipped under the frame elements. In this case, the plates are installed close to each other. When doing this work, you should try not to crush the material. Otherwise, wool will lose some of its performance characteristics.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation from the inside continues with the installation of a vapor barrier film. Next, the GCR itself is installed on the frame. In the event that the installation of false ceilings will not be carried out, the work is performed using a slightly different technology:

Pre-covered ceiling vapor barrier film. If there is no attic above, it is better to use a waterproofing membrane.
Next, a wooden crate is stuffed on it. For its manufacture, bars with a section of 30 * 30 - 40 * 40 mm are used. In this case, the step between the elements of the frame is made in such a way that the plates lie flat.
At the next stage, mineral wool is inserted between the bars. In the event that the crate was installed correctly, the plates will hold up well and just like that. However, in order to completely eliminate the risk of falling out, it is worth additionally fixing them with special fungal dowels.
Next, it is stretched onto the frame. It needs to be nailed with slats with a thickness of three centimeters or more. Thus, an additional ventilation layer will be arranged.
At the next stage, the ceiling is usually sheathed with plywood and glued with ceiling tiles.

Styrofoam installation

Now let's figure out how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house using another modern material. Usually, expanded polystyrene is laid in the attic in the same way as mineral wool - between beams or in a crate. However, it is quite allowed to mount it directly on the attic floors, if any, that is, without installing the frame. In this case, the base must be carefully cleaned of dirt and leveled. Further work is done like this:

They check that the floor boards have not rotted or come off.
Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Fastening is carried out on staplers.
From the corner farthest from the door, they begin to lay out the expanded polystyrene plates. At the same time, make sure that the joints do not converge in a cross. That is, they perform laying apart.
The joints between the plates are sealed with mounting foam and additionally glued with construction tape.
Since the plates are a rather fragile material, they either stuff a board on top of them, or pour a cement screed of 3-4 cm. In the first case, before laying the polystyrene foam on the floors, you will need to fill a few logs.

Using Styrofoam from the inside

Insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house in this case is carried out as follows:

The ceiling is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, old plaster(if available), etc.
After that, it should be primed.
Further on the ceiling - using foam glue - expanded polystyrene plates are glued. In this case, the material should also be additionally fixed with "fungi".
A reinforcing mesh is glued on top of the plates.
Next, the ceiling is plastered.

Of course, you can mount polystyrene foam in the same way as mineral wool, that is, in a crate. In this case, the ceiling at the final stage is sheathed with plywood, clapboard or edged board.

We insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with expanded clay

In this case, the space between the floor beams is pre-covered with roofing material. You can also use a very thick plastic film. should cover the beams themselves as well. The seams on the roofing material are glued bituminous mastic, on the film - with adhesive tape. Around the attic waterproofing material must be raised to the height of the future backfill layer.

Next, the ceiling is actually insulated with expanded clay. Sometimes the roofing material is pre-coated with a clay solution. The thickness of the expanded clay layer is usually 12-16 cm. It is desirable to use a material having different fractions of granules. In this case, the insulating layer will be more dense and even. Sometimes, to enhance the thermal insulation effect, crushed foam is added to expanded clay.

From above, the heat insulator is covered with a waterproofing film. Further arranged concrete screed 4-5 cm thick. 20 days after pouring, you can start finishing the floor.

Insulation with sawdust

For such a material, cement is usually used as a binder. In order to prevent the appearance of rodents, a little lime can also be added to the sawdust. Rotting is prevented by using borax.

As with expanded clay insulation, the attic floors in this case are first covered with roofing felt or plastic wrap. You can also use sheet parchment.

The following requirements are imposed on the sawdust itself:

They must be aged for at least a year.
The material must be dry.
It is not allowed to insulate the ceiling with sawdust, rotten or infected insects.
It is best to use sawdust of medium fraction.

After the attic floors are prepared and waterproofed, they proceed to the actual preparation of the insulation solution itself. To do this, ten buckets of sawdust take one bucket of cement and half a bucket of lime. In addition, a glass of borax is diluted in a bucket of water and this solution is sprayed from a watering can over the mixture. The amount of water depends on the moisture content of the sawdust. Usually you have to add 5-10 liters.

The chimney must be laid before laying this type of insulation. Wiring in the attic in this case is pulled in special metal pipes. It is not necessary to do a screed over sawdust insulation. The hardened mixture itself will be strong enough.

So, now you know how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. If the work will be done from the inside - use thinner polystyrene foam. When insulating from the side of the attic, it is better to take mineral wool. You can save money by using expanded clay or sawdust.

Insulate elements wooden house necessary and no matter how warm it may seem to you. There are many videos on the Internet about how to insulate elements of windows and doors, floors and ceilings. But it is not always possible to understand clearly how this is done. This article will tell the reader how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. We will consider the materials that are used for this work and their phased use.

It is important to insulate the ceiling, and for reasons of warm air circulation, it is known to rise up. And with careful insulation of the walls, it will still leave the room through the ceiling. But not everyone can afford to spend a lot of money on this work. Therefore, they were devised various technologies insulation and material.

It is also important to insulate the ceiling due to sound insulation, since a tree of a small section easily transmits sound. When choosing a material for insulation, it is important to look not only at the price tag, but also take into account all its pros and cons. For wood, the most important indicators are environmental friendliness and thermal insulation.

Among the many materials all these requirements are met:

Clay.
Straw.
Sawdust.
Expanded clay.
Minvata.

Other modern materials essentially synthetics and can cause headache and complications of the respiratory system. And when building a wooden house, you always want to get eco-friendly housing in the first place. Not every material, such as straw and clay, can be found in urban areas. Yes, and the method of insulating the ceiling with them is complex and laborious. Among all the most affordable are: expanded clay, mineral wool and sawdust. Working with these materials is not difficult and does not require special knowledge.

There are ways to insulate the ceiling of a timber house:

Ceiling insulation from the inside. To do this, use mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other matte heaters.
Warming outside. With the help of expanded clay, sawdust and other bulk materials.

About each type of insulation various types Let's talk about the material in more detail.

The subtleties of working with sawdust

Sawdust has two undeniable advantages:

Cheapness.
Environmental friendliness.

Even cement, which is used as a binder, does not violate their characteristics. This type of insulation is allowed even in children's and food institutions. This is a way to insulate the ceiling from the outside.

For this type of insulation, sawdust is purchased dry or dried. They should not contain fungi and mold, as well as debris inclusions. Before work, sawdust must be kept in a dry and warm place for at least 1 year. It is better to use a medium or large fraction, so you will need less cement, and the thermal insulation properties will be higher.

With such insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house, you will need:

sawdust, their number depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling;
sheet or rolled parchment;
lime, it will serve as a good antiseptic and help neutralize the settlement of rodents in the insulation.
copper sulfate.

How to prepare a solution

Before preparing the solution, you need to determine how much it is needed. For residential wooden houses need a layer of 25-30 cm, for summer cottage suitable for 20-25 cm, for a bath 30-35 cm. You need to prepare the solution according to the recipe:

Sawdust - 10 buckets of 10 liters.

Lime - ½ bucket.

10 st. spoons of borax or blue vitriol.

Water - ½-1 bucket 10 liters.

Cement - 1 bucket.

The procedure for preparing ceiling insulation: Lime is added to dry cement and mixed. This mixture is mixed with dry sawdust. Then water is gradually introduced. The mixture is stirred all the time. Readiness can be determined by squeezing a small piece in your hand. Water should not stand out, and when opening the hand, the mixture should not fall apart and lose shape.

Mounting sequence

Before laying sawdust, the chimney must be carefully insulated with any fire-resistant material. All wiring is mounted in a metal pipe. The work can be divided into the following stages:

Spreading parchment all over the ceiling outside.
The sawdust mixture is laid out on top. It can be slightly tamped.
Pouring material into places of voids and gaps.

After that, the sawdust insulation dries for 1-2 weeks. You can determine the complete drying by stepping on the sawdust with your foot. The insulation layer should crunch slightly, but not be compacted.

It is best to install this type of insulation in summer time years, so the ceiling dries faster and more evenly.

The subtleties of working with expanded clay

Expanded clay is the second most cost-effective material for ceiling insulation in a wooden house. At the same time, it is environmentally pure material, as it is made by firing clay in special kilns.

The main advantages of expanded clay insulation:

Not afraid of fire.
Tolerates any temperature fluctuations.
Rodents don't like him.
Doesn't rot.
It has thermal conductivity and sound insulation 2 times lower than that of a log house.
The laying technology is simple, you can do it yourself.

Phased technology

All work on insulation with expanded clay is carried out outside the ceiling. Before the main insulation, hydro and vapor barrier are rolled out. For this, the cheapest roll view, for 140 rubles / roll. The main types of heat and waterproofing include any Izospan B or C brand. If none of this was at hand, then they take a simple PVC film or aluminum foil. In extreme cases, you can use roofing material, but with high temperatures it will emit toxic fumes, and this is undesirable in a log house.

All work on the insulation of a log house with expanded clay can be divided into the main stages:

The wiring and the outlet of the pipe are insulated non-combustible material. To do this, you can take metal pipes and sheets of any thin iron.
Parchment or waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling. The width of the cut strip should exceed the gap between the beams by 10-15 cm. The parchment should be laid with an overlap on the walls and beams. When using Izospan, you need to glue all the seams with a special tape. The roofing material is glued with special rubber mastic. All joints and overlaps are subjected to the same treatment. If a simple adhesive tape is used, then it is covered with aluminum plates from above. You need to fix the waterproofing with a stapler or molar double-sided tape.
The vapor barrier is being rolled out. It should also be laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is also fastened with a stapler.
A small layer of 5 cm of mashed clay is laid on top of the vapor barrier.
Expanded clay is poured onto clay, leveled. The thickness of the expanded clay backfill layer is from 15 cm or more. For a residential building 20-25 cm, for a summer cottage 16-20 cm, for a bath 20-25 cm.
On top of the expanded clay, a small layer of cement and sand is made - a screed. This layer will play a protective function for expanded clay.

It is important to understand that the level of bending of the vapor barrier must be higher than the level of expanded clay backfill, simply speaking, its edges should be visible 10 cm along the walls.

If the attic is planned to be used as a living space or a workshop, then flooring from floorboards or chipboard is mounted on top of the beams.

Working with mineral wool

To insulate the ceiling of a log house, mineral wool or bolzat is used. We have already talked about the types of this heater.

The main advantages of warming the ceiling with Mivat:

Low thermal conductivity.
Environmental friendliness.
Easy to mount.

But there is one minus, compared to expanded clay and sawdust insulation, it is expensive. This material is used both for external and internal insulation of the ceiling of the house. The only difference is that from the inside they take a denser material in the form of plates.

Description of work

Step-by-step laying of mineral wool from above on the ceiling can be divided into stages:

The ceiling outside is cleaned of foreign debris and dust.
The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The edges are wrapped on the walls. The joints are sealed with tape.
The wrapped edges are laid on a beam and attached with a stapler.
Mineral wool is tightly laid between the beams. If these are rolls, then you need to take the width optimal distance between beams. You need to roll along the length of the beams, so there will be fewer joints. Mattresses are simply laid.
A second layer is laid on the first layer of thermal insulation from mineral wool, so that it is in the opposite direction to the first. At the same time, both beams and joints are covered.
All formed gaps and cracks are foamed with waterproof polyurethane foam.
From above, everything is closed with a vapor barrier, which must be laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with adhesive tape.
A screed is made from above with cement and sand.
For residential attics, a floorboard or laminate is laid.

You need to work with cheap types of mineral wool (fiberglass) in a respirator. They cannot be used to insulate the inside of the ceiling.

Interior work with foam

To insulate the ceiling from the inside of a wooden house, use a dense tile insulation, such as polystyrene or polyurethane foam. This method of insulation is considered the most reliable, but has several disadvantages:

It is difficult to fix the insulation all the time with your hands up.
This type of insulation is more expensive.
On fire, emits toxic fumes.

The advantages of such insulation:

Less wasted attic space.
Thicker layer of insulation.
Work can be carried out at any time of the year, even in rainy autumn.

Step by step description of work:

A vapor barrier is attached to the ceiling from the inside. It is better to take a roll and roll it out in strips, securing it with a construction stapler.
Styrofoam is placed in the resulting cells between the beam covered with a vapor barrier. The sheets must be cut to size so that they fit snugly between the beams.
Another layer of vapor barrier is made on top, you need to attach it to the beams of a timber house with a stapler. Overlapping 10-15 cm, the joints are glued with adhesive tape.
A crate of 5X5 cm bars or special metal beams is mounted on the beams.
On top of this structure, a ceiling made of GKL or GVL is attached, depending on the room.

All work is carried out from above into the room. A vapor barrier is mounted on the ceiling, while covering all the beams. The overlap of the vapor barrier should be 10-15 cm. It is convenient to fasten the vapor barrier to the ceiling of a log house with a stapler.

How much does labor and materials cost?

You can do the work of warming the ceiling from above with your own hands. But for this you need to at least watch the thematic video and read phased work. But there are companies that specialize in this type of work. Moreover, you can order both work without material, and turnkey. The average price for these types of work in all cities differs little.

The average cost of insulating the ceiling of a log house for 2014:

Types of jobs	Price with material, rub./m²	Price for work, rub./m²
Laying waterproofing	From 150	From 50
Laying vapor barrier inside the house	From 100	From 80
Expanded clay pillow	From 300	From 200
Laying sawdust pad	From 250	From 200
Laying mineral wool outside the ceiling	From 1500	From 550
foam fixing	From 1100	From 650

All of the listed types of insulation comply with all building codes:

Eco-friendly, which is important for a log house. The exception is internal insulation with polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, which emit toxic substances when burned. But if you do all the work correctly, then contact with the air in the room of these materials is excluded.
Fire safety standards for a timber structure are observed. Expanded clay is generally a fire-fighting material.
All materials meet all sanitary standards. Here it is worth noting only sawdust, which is loved by bugs and rodents. But if you follow all the requirements in the manufacture of the solution, then they will not start.
In terms of labor costs, sawdust and expanded clay are higher, since they have big weight. They can only be used with the correct calculation of the truss system.
Sawdust and expanded clay most cheap way insulate the house from above.

Which option is suitable for your log house depends on its design features, material capabilities, etc. In any case, you can save money by doing all the work yourself.

During the construction of wooden houses, special attention should be paid to the removal of ceiling structures. The heated air from the room, according to the laws of physics, always rises. Therefore, the insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house is a mandatory and responsible procedure that you can do yourself.

There are many ways to keep the heat in the room. One of the simplest methods, which has been used for centuries, is the use of a thick mixture of clay and sand. The method is quite simple, and it will not be difficult to lay such a heater with your own hands.

The best insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house is carried out subject to the following condition: after laying the material, so-called "cold bridges" should not occur. They are formed when the insulation does not fit snugly against the beams and boards.

Today, the following materials are used for thermal insulation of the ceiling:

sawdust;
ecowool;
polystyrene or foam plastic;
penofol;
expanded clay crumb and others.

Each of the above materials can be laid with your own hands. Most often, when building a wooden house, they resort to ecowool, as it includes special substances that increase refractory and antiseptic properties. In addition, this insulation improves sound insulation in the room and facilitates the installation process, as it has a convenient width of 150 mm.

Mineral wool has similar properties. It does not undergo combustion and rarely causes allergic reactions in the residents of the future home. Mineral wool after laying is practically not subject to shrinkage, which eliminates the possibility of the formation of "cold bridges". In addition, such a heater is inedible for most rodents and insects.

These properties are deprived of sawdust. They are characterized by low resistance to moisture, which provokes the formation of fungi and mold on ceilings. However, sawdust has a fairly low cost and is easy to install with your own hands, so these materials are still often used in the insulation of private households.

As for expanded clay chips, its use has been abandoned in recent years, despite the relatively low cost of such a heater.

Before proceeding with the insulation of the ceiling with sawdust, it is necessary to prepare:

Glassine or other insulating material. Its area should slightly exceed the dimensions of the ceiling.
Several bags of sawdust. Their number should be enough to evenly cover the ceiling with a layer 20 cm thick.
Cement.

Before starting the installation of insulation, it is necessary to process all wooden structures special substances that prevent the development of mold and mildew. Following this, an insulating material is laid on the surface. Next, a mixture is prepared, consisting of sawdust and cement. The proportion in this case is as follows: 10 buckets of sawdust per 1.5 buckets of water and 0.15 buckets of cement.

At the end, the finished solution is evenly distributed over the entire ceiling surface. After drying, the mixture emits a slight crunch when someone walks on it. It is important to note that this method of laying the heat-insulating layer with your own hands is possible only if there is access to the ceiling from above (for example, an attic space is provided in the house).

Laying a mixture of sawdust and cement on the ceiling

Expanded polystyrene, in comparison with other heaters, has a low weight, so it is often used when insulating the ceiling with your own hands. It withstands moisture well, but is highly flammable. Moreover, in the process of its combustion, many highly toxic substances are released.

Before laying the foam, it is necessary to first insulate the ceiling with parchment or other material with similar properties. They allow you to eliminate the likelihood of cracks or gaps. Next, foam sheets are laid and fixed with thin rails. All gaps between the material are filled with expanded clay chips or foam.

For achievement best result some builders additionally lay a layer of mineral wool on top of the foam.

Mineral wool installation

Mineral wool, in comparison with the materials mentioned above, has one feature: it requires much less to create a reliable heat-insulating layer.

Before laying, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris and other elements that can damage the mineral wool. Further, all wooden structures are covered with a vapor barrier film. In particular, inexpensive parchment is suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool is laid as tightly as possible to each other. Gaps between individual layers should be kept to a minimum. At the same time, the wool must not be additionally compacted, otherwise its thermal insulation properties will deteriorate..

The same vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the material, preventing the penetration of dust and moisture. In the event that they walk on the ceiling, it is recommended to additionally cover the mineral wool with boards or plywood. This eliminates the possibility of damage to the thermal insulation layer and its compaction.

Penofol laying

Penofol is an effective material used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. One of its sides is covered with foil. Before starting work, you must purchase an additional crate and nails.

Laying penofol begins with the fact that the crate is mounted on the ceiling. Next, a heat-insulating material is nailed to it with the foil side inward. Next, another crate is applied to the penofol.

This type of insulation is used for internal thermal insulation of the ceiling. At the end of the work, it is recommended to use drywall, lining or other materials that allow you to hide the penofol and the crate.

Nuances of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

It is recommended to insulate the ceiling only upon completion construction works. If further work with the ceiling is expected, then best material for thermal insulation, mineral wool is used, as it can be reused if handled with care. Before starting installation, apply mounting foam to all existing slots and gaps.

In the case when an attic floor is being built in the house, it must also be insulated. You can check the quality of the work done in the winter. To do this, it is enough to evaluate how the snow lies on the roof. If it is located in a uniform layer, then the installation of the insulation was done correctly.

You can also check the quality of work immediately upon completion. To do this, close all doors and windows tightly, heat the room and measure the temperature. After a certain time, you need to look at the thermometer again. If the temperature dropped by several degrees, then gaps remained in the heat-insulating layer.

Most heaters can be applied finishing material. However, it is better when boards or plywood are pre-laid on them. They allow not only to hide the thermal insulation layer, but also to protect it from accidental damage.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house allows you to solve two important problems: to improve the thermal insulation of the home and its sound insulation. In order for the efficiency of this work to be maximum, it is necessary to properly insulate such a ceiling. When solving this issue, there are several options for warming with various heat-insulating materials. In each case, you need to choose the one that best solves the problem with the least financial and time costs.

I option. Warming with sawdust

The advantages of this insulation option are that sawdust is a very affordable insulating material that is inexpensive. Therefore, when the problem arises “What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house?”, Then its solution using sawdust is one of the most common. Warming is performed using sawdust-cement mortar. Let us consider in detail the process of performing such work.

Preparation of materials

Acquire sheet glassine. Its quantity should be equal to the surface area of the ceiling.
Sawdust - several bags. Calculating the required amount of this material is simple. It is necessary to divide the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling by 5. As a result, we get a number that is the volume of the filler, i.e. sawdust. Requirements for the quality of sawdust used as a heater:
- the larger the fraction of sawdust, the less cement will be needed. Therefore, insulation will be inexpensive in terms of financial costs. In addition, the more cement in such a solution, the worse its thermal insulation properties.
- dry to the touch;
- complete absence of moldy smell;
- they must be aged in time (they must be at least a year old);
Cement - several bags. Calculating this value is also easy. It is taken with water in the proportion of one part of cement to 10 parts of water. And water is taken at the rate of one and a half buckets of water for 10 buckets of sawdust. Water must be taken exactly in exactly the specified proportion so that the solution does not turn out to be too wet. This may affect the drying time of the solution. In the hot season, excess warm moisture is a source of reproduction of fungus and microorganisms.
An important point in the question of how to properly insulate a wooden ceiling is the choice of the time of year when these works are carried out. They must be performed in such a way that by the autumn all the excess moisture in it has evaporated from the solution.

Mortar laying technology

We lay out the waterproofing material over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling surface.
Knead this mixture according to the indicated proportions so that it becomes gray.
Sprinkle the resulting solution evenly over the entire surface.
We tamp the resulting layer of thermal insulation. For this purpose, you can simply walk along the resulting surface. You can perform the compaction process with a special construction rammer (it is better if its platform is wooden). But at the same time, the efforts to apply are small, given that this is the ceiling of the house, and not a concrete path on the street.
After this solution has solidified, hallmark its readiness will become a slight crunch when pressed.
It should be noted that this method is used if there is free access to the ceiling from above. If there is no possibility of free movement on the ceiling surface, then it is necessary to perform insulation from the inside of the room.

II option. Use of roll materials

Features of working with these materials

When the question arises of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house in other ways, they immediately recall roll insulation. These include glass wool, mineral construction wool and others. light technological insulation.

Significant disadvantages of these materials are irritations on human skin from contact with them. And if a person has a tendency to allergies, this can become a significant factor in its manifestation. In addition to skin irritation, these tiny particles get into the eyes and mouth. When performing such work with these materials, you need to protect yourself with very tight clothing, a respirator and goggles.

The technology of laying roll insulation

An anti-condensation film must be fixed to the ceiling. As it can be used glassine. For more security, you can additionally use plastic wrap. If this operation is not performed, the glass wool or mineral wool from condensate can get significantly wet, which will adversely affect the thermal insulation. In addition, moisture can become a source of fungal rot in a wooden ceiling.
Nails are stuffed into the ceiling in such a way that the nail head is not hammered to the surface of the ceiling.
Using these nails, threads are pulled in a zigzag way. Hats help these threads not come off. The purpose of the thread is to hold the unfolded roll material in a fixed position.
The insulation is laid out in this way: the thread is lifted, the insulation is placed in the space between the ceiling and the thread. The work must be done by two: one person lays out the material, and the second pulls the thread at this time. It is not recommended for one person to perform such work.
Nails are hammered deeper, for a clear fixation of the insulation layer.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the house

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the house is most often performed using foam boards. In this case, plates of such a material with a thickness of 5-10 cm are used. This material is convenient for such work in that it can be easily cut with a knife.

Therefore, individual strips that are not solid boards can easily be glued to a wooden surface in places where it is not possible to lay a solid sheet. You can use special construction glue for this, for example, the famous "Dragon".

Insulation technology from the inside

One of the disadvantages of such insulation from the inside of the room is the loss of the height of the room. But you can put up with this, realizing that you have done a very important useful thing to keep the heat in the house. Considering how relevant the topic of payment for heat is, it can be understood that a height loss of 5-6 cm is a minor disadvantage of such work.