Installation of plastic windows with their own. Rules for mounting plastic windows on anchor plates

Previously, houses were installed only wooden windows, but in our time they produce not only wooden ones, but also.

And in modern world people often began to install plastic windows in their houses or apartments. So you, at some point, decided that wooden windows no longer hold heat so well, freeze through and look, let's say, not very attractive, and for this reason you decided to change wooden windows to plastic ones.

Mounting plastic windows is not simple, so this work is best left to specialists. But, if you are sure that you are able to install windows yourself or you have some experience in installing such windows, then you can install windows yourself.

That's just how to properly install a plastic window, we will tell further.

The positive quality of installing plastic windows on your own is that you will do it more carefully than many specialized workers. Still, if you do not have the skills to install such windows and have never seen how they do it, then it is best to use the services of specialized workers.

When is the best time to install plastic windows?

Installation of plastic windows can be carried out in winter time, but in the event that the outside air temperature is not less than minus five degrees. Otherwise, you need to install a special heat shield.

window measurement

Before purchasing a new plastic window, you need to make measurements of the window opening and, according to the data received, buy a finished window or place an order for window manufacturing. When you order a window according to your size, it will fit perfectly into the opening of your window accordingly.

The window should not fit tightly into the opening, there should be a small gap between the window and the opening, as it needs to expand or contract, this will depend on temperature changes.

clearance requirements

The minimum dimensions of the gaps should be:

• Window up to 1m 20 cm indent should be 15 mm;
• Window up to 2 m 20 cm indentation is 20 mm;
• Window up to 3 m indent is 25mm.

When you replace a window, you need to take into account that the window should only fit into the window opening by a certain number of centimeters. This is necessary so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall and in order to make slopes.

All measurements were taken, all the nuances were taken into account, and as a result, the required size of the window profile was obtained. Now you can go to the company and order a window or take a ready-made one that suits your parameters.

Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening

After you have already bought a window and the weather allows its installation, then you can do its installation. It must be borne in mind that all work will be quite dusty, so it is better to remove all things or cover with a film.

After you've done everything preparatory work start dismantling the old window, and in order to remove the old window, use a chisel, pry bar and hammer.

Before installing a plastic window, it is necessary to clean the window opening well from dirt and moisten it a little.

Then you can start preparing the window for installation.

Installing a plastic window

Before installing the window profile, the sashes are removed from the window and the double-glazed windows are removed from the deaf parts of the window. Then it is necessary to peel off the protective tapes outside the profile and install the protective caps in the drain holes. We fasten fasteners for mosquito nets on self-tapping screws.

Profile insulation

If you decide to make anchors as fasteners, then the profile is drilled through and therefore the chambers are depressurized. Also, fastening windows to anchors requires more labor and skill, and for this reason, such fastening is not suitable for beginners. If the profile is not fixed correctly, it can lead, and if it does, the window will be damaged.

But anchoring also has positive qualities, for example, the design will be durable. But the negative quality of the mounting plates is that they do not provide good structural strength. But mounting plates are the easiest way to fix plastic windows. Very often, specialists use both types of mounts.

1. Usually we start fastening from the corner and at a distance of 120-150 mm we make the first fastener and then with a distance of 700 mm we make the next fastener. Three fasteners are installed on each side.
2. Before installing the profile in the opening, it is necessary to check all planes with a level, then with the help of wooden bars it is necessary to raise the profile and adjust it vertically.
3. It is necessary to start vertically from the top of the window opening and raise the profile from below using the materials described above. The next step is to align the profile horizontally. Fixing the profile in the opening on the side and top is made of wooden blades. After you have done alignment on all sides, you need to make a profile and if everything is in order, then you can fix it.
4. If you fix the window profile to the mounting plates, then they are first fixed to one dowel nail. The next step is to check the window profile using a level, and only after that mounting plate fix the second dowel with a nail.
5. In the event that the windows are attached to the anchor, then through the holes that were previously made and then using a special tool, make holes in the wall and screw the anchor in without tightening them.
6. The anchors are not tightened in order to check the window installation level, and only then can the anchors be tightened, but very slowly so as not to disturb the balance of the profile. When the profile is fixed, we remove the wooden blades from the sides and top, and the lower blades remain, because they are the basis of the window profile.

How to install ebbs on plastic windows?

The next step of the work is the installation of the ebb.

We measure it and use metal scissors to cut out the desired size, then a special tape is glued to the bottom of the frame, it is needed to protect the seam between the wall and bottom window.

After the tape is glued, a layer is applied to it. Also, a layer of mounting foam is applied to the edge of the slab, this is necessary in order to ensure the sealing of the ebb. The ebb must go into the grooves of the profile and is attached with self-tapping screws.

Seam sealing

Then, with mounting foam, we close the seam between the wall and the window (first from one side, then from the other and from above). After the foam has dried, another insulation tape is glued on top of it. FROM inside windows, it is necessary to remove the protective tape and use special linings when installing the double-glazed window.

With the help of the slats, they hold the double-glazed window, drive the slats into the grooves and install the sash, fix it in the canopies, then fix the handle and adjust the sash horizontally and vertically. After all work, a mosquito net is installed.

How to install a window sill on plastic windows?

After all the work, we begin the installation of the window sill.

• First, we fill the lower mounting seam well with foam, and a tape is glued on top of it.
• Then they install wooden blocks on which the window sill will be attached.
• Wooden blocks must be at least ten centimeters. Also, the window sill should be tilted five degrees towards the room, and the window sill should not obscure the battery.
• It is necessary to check whether the window sill is securely attached and it is necessary to solder it from below and, best of all, with mounting foam.

In this article, we talked about how to install a plastic window and we hope that this information was useful to you. Good luck and be patient!

Plastic windows deservedly enjoy the reputation of functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic structures. They are becoming more and more popular and are confidently replacing the wooden windows that are familiar to many people.

Plastic windows have gained a reputation for being strong, durable and reliable designs.

Their additional advantages include the fact that with a great desire, almost anyone can install plastic windows on their own. And this is a big plus, because. For the installation, experts ask for quite a lot of money. In addition, having figured out how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and be able to do everything in accordance with the technology.

How to determine the size of the future plastic window

Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out what exactly the design should be. And this preparatory stage begins with taking measurements. When taking measurements on your own House master should know that there are window openings without a quarter and with it. The procedure for measuring openings of two different types will also differ.

The quarter option involves taking measurements in the following order. First you need to measure the opening between the quarters in the narrowest place and add 3-4 cm to the resulting value. This will be the width of the structure. Additionally, make sure that the specific width of the future plastic window exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the lower plane of the opening and the upper horizontal quarter. So you determine the amount you need.

In the case when a plastic window is installed in an opening without the quarter mentioned above, to determine the appropriate size, you simply need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 cm from the width.

Additionally, determine what size the window sill and ebb should be if you plan to replace them. There should be no complications with this operation, you just need to consider the following important factors.

When determining the width of the ebb, future thermal insulation or sheathing must be taken into account. According to the standards, the ebb should protrude from the vertical wall by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional purpose. For example, if you want to install potted flowers on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, when choosing a window sill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element overlaps the radiators.

The length of the window sill should be 8-10 cm longer than the width of the opening. The edges should be recessed into the slope cavity by at least 5 cm.

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Window ordering and preparation for work

At the next stage, you need to go along with the measurements received to a company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you do not want to waste time measuring or doubt that you can do everything right, order this service from the same company. Most companies offer it for free, provided that the window is ordered from them.

In addition to the window size, you need to define the following parameters:

1. The number of chambers in a double-glazed window.
2. The number of cameras in the window profile.
3. Availability of fittings and necessary fasteners.

The consultant will talk in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare ahead of time. So, if winters in your region are not very cold, and it is not very noisy outside the window, a window with two glasses and a profile 60 mm wide will be enough. Next, be guided by the features of the climate and the environment.

For self-assembly plastic window will need the following:

To install windows you will need: a hammer, a drill, a screwdriver, a building level, etc.

1. Foam gun and foam itself.
2. Drill with speed control and perforation mode.
3. Small ax and hammer.
4. Metal scissors.
5. Sharp knife, office knife is also suitable.
6. Building level.
7. Chisel.
8. Grinder.
9. Nail puller.
10. Electric jigsaw. In the absence of such, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth.
11. Putty knife.

From materials additionally buy:

1. Multipurpose construction adhesive.
2. Wooden beam with a total length of 150-200 cm and dimensions of 2x4 cm.
3. Dowels.
4. Plastic corners and panels from the same material.
5. Self-tapping screws of different sizes. Usually used 6x40, 2x16, 2x80.
6. Solvents.
7. Mixture for plaster.
8. silicate adhesive.

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Do-it-yourself old window dismantling

Actually initial stage changing windows, it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure.

If windows have already been installed in the room, then before starting the installation of a new window, you need to get rid of the existing structure. If in the future you do not plan to install the old window anywhere, you can not try to be careful, but caution does not hurt. Do everything so as not to get hurt and not to drop the window out. The last rule is especially relevant for apartments in multi-storey buildings, because. the window could fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And in a private house, cleaning glass will not give you any pleasure.

First, remove the opening windows and sashes. Remove all glass from the structure, having previously removed the retaining glazing beads. Take a grinder with a circle on concrete or a hacksaw. Using the tool, make cuts along the horizontal and vertical elements window frame.

With the help of an improvised tool - a mount, a crowbar, a hammer will do - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to keep the old window, the structure can be obtained without deformation and damage. But this will take much more time and certain skills.

On the this stage both the external ebb and the window sill are dismantled. In conclusion, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned of dust and all kinds of construction debris.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window

Gradually, you came to the main stage of work - installing a new window. This work requires careful and consistent implementation of a whole list of various activities.

First, the window is prepared for further installation. At this stage, you need to fix the mounting plates to the end of the upper and side parts of the frame. In the future, it is thanks to them that the structure will be held in the required position. Quite often, installers replace plates with hangers, which are usually used in the construction of various drywall constructions. But when installing a plastic window, it is much more expedient to use plates. They are stronger than hangers.

The slats must be securely fixed to the end of the frame. When installing, the fasteners will have to enter the body of the metal profile of the block. And this should be done in such a way that the double-glazed window is not deformed. Fasteners are made using self-tapping screws. Select the diameter of these products, taking into account the size of the window. Standard-sized structures are usually installed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm. For larger blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use larger self-tapping screws - 5-6 mm in diameter.

The fastening of the anchor strips to the end of the frame should be carried out so that they are installed in increments of 6-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.

After that, you need to correctly set the prepared window structure. On the surface, this procedure may seem quite simple, but take it seriously. It is best to enlist the help of an assistant at this stage. One of you will maintain the block, and the other will deal with its alignment.

Install the block in the opening and adjust its position using pre-prepared wedges. It is important to set the block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the recommendations:

1. Wedged the module not only from below, but also on the sides.
2. Make sure that all vertical frame members are in the same plane.
3. If there is an impost, place wedges under it as well.

Check the evenness of the installation of the block using a level. If there are slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this, using anchor bolts or dowels, fix the anchor plates to the opening cavity. It is important that the elements are attached strictly to the building envelope. To do this, it may be necessary to remove a layer of plaster where the anchor plates are attached.

After you securely fix the module, seal the seams with foam specially designed for this job. It is important that the material is intended specifically for the installation of plastic windows. Carefully read the instructions and make sure that it can be used in the humidity and temperature at the installation site of the module.

Moisten the surface of the seam with water before applying the foam. If you need to fill an area wider than 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.

Relatively recently, all residential buildings had ordinary wooden windows that had to be sealed for the winter. Today it is almost a relic of the past. And most people seek to replace such windows with modern plastic window structures, and they are especially interested in installing plastic windows with their own hands.

This desire of the consumer is quite understandable - plastic windows have not only an aesthetic appearance, but also serve as an interior decoration. They are also much easier to operate, serve an order of magnitude longer, and are much cheaper than their wooden counterparts.

If you have a desire to change old windows in your apartment for modern double-glazed windows, then you will certainly wonder if it is possible to install a plastic window yourself. How difficult is the installation of plastic windows, and is it possible to do it yourself without resorting to the help of specialists?

Yes, it is quite possible. In order to install a plastic window with your own hands, it is not necessary to have a construction specialty. With certain skills and good tools anyone can install a plastic window with their own hands.

Let's figure out how to do it right.

What is a plastic window made of?

First, consider the design of a plastic window. Without this, you will not understand the installation process itself.

Plastic windows are made from a special material called Polyvinyl Chloride. Therefore, plastic windows are abbreviated as PVC windows. As with any window, the main element of a PVC window is a frame made of a profile consisting of cells. The more such cells in the frame (they are also called cameras), the warmer the window will be.

As a rule, the color of the frame is white. Although plastic can be black, brown, and even colored. The most common and most a budget option- white plastic windows.

In addition, the window consists of an opening part (sash) and a fixed part, which is called the "grouse". A double-glazed window is inserted directly into these parts of the window, which is pressed against the frame with a special plastic strip. For tightness, a black rubber seal is placed.

Special mechanisms are installed on the window sashes, with the help of which the window opens and closes.

In addition, on the outside, the window has a so-called low tide - a small board with which precipitation is removed, and slopes - plates that close up the side and upper parts from the side of the street.

Do-it-yourself installation steps for plastic windows

All stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands are as follows:

• careful measurements;
• dismantling of old window structures;
• preparation window openings;
• do-it-yourself PVC window installation.

We take measurements

Before ordering, and, accordingly, installing a plastic window, you need to make several measurements. Moreover, how carefully they will be done depends on how your design will fit into the window opening. Remember that accurate measurements are almost half the success. If you take the measurements incorrectly, when installing plastic windows with your own hands, the structure simply will not enter the opening. In addition, the windows may begin to freeze.

First you need to carefully inspect the opening. If the part of the window that is smaller on the outside, then measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Moreover, it is highly desirable to make several of them, because window openings are rarely perfectly even. Find the smallest measurement value, and add 3 to it. Measure the height, leave its value as it is.

If the window is the same size both inside and outside, the measurements are taken a little differently. You need to measure the width and height. Then you need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 from the width. This will be the full size of your window, with width and height. We subtract the values ​​in order to leave gaps for the installation of the window sill and special mounting foam.

Each owner chooses the window sill according to the size he wants. Someone likes wide window sills, someone narrow, and someone makes them at the level of the wall. This is individual, and there are no rules here. It's about width.

Along the length, both the window sill and the ebbs must be taken with a margin - about 10 cm wider than the window opening.

Getting ready to install

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows always begins with the dismantling of the old window. As a rule, even for novice builders, dismantling is especially easy.

After you have broken the old window, you need to carefully inspect the opening and remove everything that may later fall off. If some parts of the opening protrude from the walls after dismantling, they must also be removed and the surfaces smoothed. Potholes, if any. Should be sealed with cement mortar.

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, you must consider the following circumstances:

• plastic window construction should be carefully fixed;
• the window structure must be aligned both horizontally and vertically, otherwise it may simply skew in the future;
• it is necessary to plaster the mounting foam on all sides, with which the structure is attached, also in order to avoid problems such as deformation in the future.

Plastic window installation technology

Do-it-yourself plastic window is mounted as follows:

• on four sides, fix the structure with wedges, and determine how accurately the frame stands relative to the opening;
• fix the frame with special bolts;
• attach the structure with screws to the wooden part;
• seal the plastic structure with mounting foam, spreading it over a surface slightly moistened with water.

Let's start with the fact that there are two different ways do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows.

The first method is that holes are drilled in the window frame for special anchors that are driven into the wall. This is a rather difficult way, but a more reliable mount.

The second method is that metal plates are first attached to the frame from the outside, and only then these plates are attached to the walls. It is much simpler and fast way, however, such a mount is not reliable. The frame can simply warp even in strong winds. Therefore, if you nevertheless decided to make your life easier, and install a plastic window with your own hands in the second way, use thick and wide metal plates. In this case, you can give your plastic construction greater reliability. However, if it is very windy in your city, this method is definitely not suitable for you.

Direct mounting

Do-it-yourself installation of a plastic window in the first way with secure fastening is carried out as follows.

First you need to check whether the structure and the window opening are combined. If everything is in order, proceed directly to the installation.

First you need to remove the window sash. For this:

• turn the window handle down, putting the window in the “closed” position, and remove the lining from the hinges with a screwdriver;
• pull out the pin, which is located on the upper loop;
• open the shutter by turning the window handle to a horizontal position, after which, lifting the window sash, you can easily remove it from the lower pin.

After you have removed the sash, you need to remove the double-glazed window on the "grouse". For this:

• insert a small spatula or something similar, strong enough, thin and not wide, into the gap between the frame and the glazing bead;
• move the glazing bead with a spatula, going along the entire length, and remove it from the frame.

After that, it is already quite easy to remove the double-glazed window itself. The main thing is that it does not fall out of the frame after the glazing beads you have taken out have ceased to hold it. To avoid this, the window should be tilted.

The frame is freed from the double-glazed window, and now it should be glued around the perimeter with a special tape. This tape is needed in order for the window to retain heat.

As a rule, white self-adhesive protective tapes are glued to the frames. It is also desirable to remove them, because later, when they heat up in the sun and stick to the frame, fused with it, it will be difficult to do. And while the tapes are removed very easily.

Now the frame needs to be inserted into the window opening. To do this, you will need mounting wedges that are placed in the corners (this is a mandatory requirement), as well as in other places where you consider it necessary.

Using a drill and a drill, special holes are made into which fasteners are inserted. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the top edge. The bottom hole should be about the same distance from the bottom corner. The gap between two fasteners should not be more than 5-7 cm.
Anchor is hammered into the hole, and then the anchor is tightened. At the same time, the anchor must be tightened carefully, trying not to overtighten, otherwise the profile will bend, and this cannot be allowed. This operation - tightening the anchors - is continued as many times as necessary.

After that, ebbs should be installed outside. Before installation, stick self-adhesive waterproofing on the part of the frame that is outside. On the side, strobes are made in the openings (then you will need to bring the edges of these ebbs there).

On that part of the opening where the ebb rests on the wall, a special profile is installed, to which the ebb is then attached. If the height difference is small, you can not install the profile, but simply apply a layer of mounting foam. Then the ebb should be brought under the ledge of the frame, and attached to it with self-tapping screws. On the lower border, the ebb must also be filled with mounting foam.

Now let's take a closer look at the second way to install plastic windows with your own hands - using plates.

This method is much simpler, although, as we have already said, it is less reliable. Installation by this method involves the installation of thick metal plates.

They should be installed at the same distance as the anchors in the first installation method - about 2 cm from the edge, and no more than 7 cm between those that are in the middle. Metal plates are simply screwed to the profile using self-tapping screws.

In all other respects, the installation of plastic windows with your own hands completely coincides with the first installation method. In the same way, a window is set in three planes according to the level, after which all actions are identical. Simply, unlike the first method, they do not attach the frame itself, but metal plates, and they are attached to the so-called dowel-nails. The peculiarity of fastening is that first a hole is drilled, then a metal plate is bent, a dowel is inserted into the hole, the plate is put in place and the dowel is twisted.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows with your own hands

If you install plastic windows incorrectly, this can lead to the fact that it will be cold in the house, water will flow into the room through improperly installed ebbs. And the expensive structures themselves will quickly become worthless. And if professional installers sometimes make mistakes when installing PVC windows, then an amateur who installs plastic windows with his own hands is certainly not immune from them.

Let's look at the 10 most common mistakes that are made when installing plastic windows.

Window size is wrong

Usually this is a consequence of incorrect, careless measurement of the window opening, and, accordingly, the manufacture of an unsuitable window structure. And in case the window is too big in size. And if the size is very small, it is simply impossible to install such structures.

Poor window preparation

If the surfaces are poorly cleaned, construction debris, dust, potholes remain on them, or, on the contrary, parts of the wall protrude on the surface of the opening, the mounting foam will not stand up as tightly and evenly as it is necessary for a high-quality installation of plastic windows with your own hands. In addition, this kind of pollution absorbs moisture very well, and it will soon be inside your apartment.

Ignoring wall insulation

If the plastic window is installed without taking into account the thermal insulation of the wall, then cold air will penetrate into the apartment at the joints. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the layers of the walls when installing plastic windows. If the wall consists of one layer, the window should be placed exactly in the middle of the wall. If the wall is two-layer, the window should be installed at the very edge, as close as possible to the insulation. And if the wall is three-layer, then it is necessary to install a PVC window directly in the plane of the wall insulation, in order to avoid heat loss.

Incorrect distance between the window frame and the slope

If the window frame is located too close to the slope, then the seal in this place will be of poor quality, and moisture will begin to appear and accumulate in these places. If the frame, on the contrary, is located too far from the slope, then there is a risk of deformation, since the load on the anchors or metal plates is too great.

Wrong sill size

The window sill should be somewhat narrower than the window frame itself. If it is of a different size, or it was decided not to install it at all, then water will penetrate under the window frame due to the lack of a normal seal in this place, and as a result, the wall will constantly be wet. Metal parts can simply corrode after a certain time.

Poor quality fixing of the PVC window to the wall

If you feel sorry for the dowels or anchors, and there are too few of them to attach the window structure to the wall properly, over time the position of the window will change, the frame will deform, and it will be difficult for you to open and close the window.

Not enough mounting foam

Polyurethane foam is practically the only material for insulating a window structure and the wall itself to which it is attached. If there is not enough foam, then the heat will go away. Therefore, the gap between the slope and the window frame must be filled properly, not sparing the mounting foam.

No duct tape

If you decide not to use the insulating tape laid down in accordance with GOST on the inside and outside of the window structure, be prepared for the fact that the thermal insulation will gradually become worse and worse. Accordingly, the windows will become unusable much faster than you would like.

Therefore, if you decide to install a plastic window with your own hands, try to go through all the necessary steps and perform all the necessary actions efficiently, accurately and slowly. Then your beautiful do-it-yourself plastic windows will delight you and your household for many years.

Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become less expensive and have become widely used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones both in terms of the degree of insulation, and in terms of sound insulation, and on by fitting all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, involved in their assembly at the present time in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But you can often meet small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles at the present time. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by carrying out an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary expendable materials. And, of course, during installation, exercise increased accuracy, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already withstood the “test of time”, and it will not be advisable to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

• First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for the window structure.
• After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
• The next step is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary - depending on the chosen method of installing the window, which will be discussed below.
• The most important step is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its vertical and horizontal alignment, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
• Next, there is a sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro- and vapor barrier.
• The next step is to install a low tide outside and a window sill inside the room.
• The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the installation of the necessary fittings.
• When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways of fixing plastic windows

Before undertaking independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

• Firstly, one should not be taken for window installation by someone who does not quite accurately represent his device. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Openable window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame by means of special fittings, which allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost dividing the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly into the frame profile (with the "deaf" part of the window) double glazing. It can be single-chamber (two panes) or two-chamber (3 panes).

5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed at the same time as the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in a section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):

- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (pos. 7). This element etc idae t t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

- The sash profile is arranged in approximately the same way (pos. 2). The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (pos. 8)

- A double-glazed window in the frame or in the window sash is held with glazing beads (pos. 9).

- The diagram additionally shows the installation of a PVC panel window slope. Pos . 10 - starting profile, pos. eleven - PVC panel, pos . 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, differ shape cross section profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window, but still typical scheme remains the same.

More details about, and how to choose the right model for it, are described in a special publication of our portal.

• Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) previously fixed to the window.

BUT. In the first case (in the figure - on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastener is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

• The window in the opening is set much more accurately.
• The fixing strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible one for large windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Flaws:

• The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For the inexperienced master it's an extra problem, since when dismantling the glazing beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. For the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
• Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling it through) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
• This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets fixed on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these plates are fastened with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.

Advantages:

• Such installation is easier and faster, especially if regular anchor plates are used, which fit snugly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.

• The integrity of the profile is not violated - there is no need to drill through it.
• There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it in a mounted form. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "without unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. Firstly, windows are most often delivered unassembled from the manufacturer. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a window assembly with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps from the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing a low tide is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one that has already been mentioned - in terms of the strength of the installation, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

Immediately it is appropriate to make one very important remark. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact the company that manufactures windows to place an order. The best situation would be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently takes all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the employees of the company, and the customer will have the right to demand the manufacture of the correct window structure.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, the measurement of the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to carry out measurements on your own, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

• In panel high-rise buildings, most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
• AT brick houses usually there is no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measurement of a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and from above the window frame should be a quarter by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and at the same time there must still be a gap to fill it with mounting foam.

So the measurement is done like this:

• Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally BUT between opposite slopes. Given that the window should go on them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, 30 ÷ 50 mm are added to the resulting distance. In this way, the required window width is preliminarily obtained.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined FROM at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude AT, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at least 20 mm must remain on the sides for sealing with mounting foam. It is possible to correct the ordered width, as there is a certain range of window setting by a quarter.

• Now about the height of the window. The entry of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in the openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers mount it even in the process of fulfilling an order, but it never hurts to check.

An important structural element is a substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

To this value is added 15 ÷ 25 mm - this is the entry of the frame into the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. Under it, there should also be a gap for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required height of the window.

For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will change soon anyway). The resulting opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm from above and 5 ÷ 20 mm from below for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if it is not planned to install a substitution profile (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.

• The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width - the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

• The length of the window sill - the maximum width of the opening ( FROM) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized, and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and inner wall plus the desired protrusion of the window sill to the outside (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a direct opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a direct opening - much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - a).

• The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two mounting gaps. FROM. We take it, as before, for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
• The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the mounting gap from above (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and 10 mm of the gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting clearance from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window with a quarter.

If the measurements are done, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it’s better to call the measurer at home so that he takes into account everything possible nuances, for example, a slight skew openingdue to shrinkage of the building.

Preparing Instruments and Consumables

While the window is being made, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare the tool and consumables for installation.

Of the tools and materials you will need:

	Perforator with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chisel-blade		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Building level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood saw
	Anchor plates - if the method of fastening "without unpacking" or combined is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape(PSUL)		Thermo-vapor barrier tape PPE, best of all - foil
	Vapor Permeable Diffusion Tape		Mounting foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should suffice.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table needs clarification:

I.First of all, we deal with the number of points for fastening. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points for fastening. Three of the most common options - a window with an impost, a completely blank window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, there are three main quantities, BUT, AT and FROM.

BUT- the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fixing points. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The value A is taken equal to from 150 to 180 mm.

AT- the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

FROM- the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to even immediately sketch out a scheme for arranging points for fasteners - this will be a good help when carrying out work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the method of fixing the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. At the same time, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or made of natural natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They will also fit hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, you will need the plates themselves - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must fit exactly to the PVC profile. To fix the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling tip 4 × 25 mm - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4 x 16 self-tapping screws may be needed to attach the sill and accessories for installing the window sill. They are also needed if outside install a mosquito net on the windows - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

• The PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external tide. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
• PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
• Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when opening with a quarter, and it is desirable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
• Mounting foam: best option- purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, for the use of which you will need a special gun. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like cheap ones sold in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame racks. In addition, it is much better, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary overspending.
• Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. At correct installation the cracks, if any, are very small, that is, a large amount of sealant is not required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase a film that will cover furniture, walls, floors in the room where the window will be installed - at first the work will be quite dusty.

Dismantling the old window

After the window is made and delivered to the place of work, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and laborious, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	First of all, the largest sashes are removed. For example, if dismantled balcony block, then the door is removed. There is important nuance- it is possible to remove sashes or doors together with glasses only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is very rotten, then for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended that all dismantled parts be taken out of the work area immediately - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old fasteners of the hinges (and most often this happens), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually hung on hinges, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame.
	Removed first central pillar- impost. To make this easier, the import is cut closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos, the masters flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. To repeat after them - in no case should it be - it is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower jumper of the frame is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to cut it using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or a nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place of its attachment with a vertical stand, then you can help yourself with a mount there
	After that, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower jumper, the window sill is dismantled. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the street.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged from above and below. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also cut it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems.
	Last vertical post the frame should also not resist if it is properly pry with a mount. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the racks of the frame and the wall, you have to cut off the plastered slopes with a puncher.
	The last stage is the cleaning of the vacated window opening from the old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a puncher by installing a chisel-shovel on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides at the place of the future installation of the window sill, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 high.

After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk around the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the mounting foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

BUT. If it is planned to install the window “with unpacking”, then it is advisable to stipulate the order at the time of registration so that it is brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble it yourself.

• First, glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appeared, it is expanded by gently moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The glazing bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the interlock. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead - so that there is no confusion during reinstallation. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - the pencil mark is very hard to rub off from the PVC surface.

• is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do it that way. Caution - the double-glazed window is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the double-glazed window. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that during installation they stand in the same place.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove a double-glazed window from a PVC window

• It is not required to get a double-glazed window from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. It is quite easy to do this. To begin with, the sash handle is transferred to the “closed” position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After that, the sash handle is transferred to the "open" position. The door leans back on top of itself, and then is removed by a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as dismantled double-glazed windows, are temporarily removed from the working area so as not to be accidentally damaged during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

• The next step in preparation is drilling holes for fixing the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up layout of points for fastening, the centers of the holes are marked and slightly punched. A drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or a screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, having quickly passed the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, there will be one insignificant obstacle in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and evenness of the edges.

• Checks for the presence of a wildcard profile. It is attached from below with a conventional locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not available, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before installing the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with mounting foam so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

• The protective coating is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun at least a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. On the inside, this coating can be removed later.

If the window will stand mosquito net, then now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are mounted on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that the mesh is securely fixed, as well as its installation and removal by its translational movement upwards until it stops against the upper brackets.

• The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Usually PSUL is placed in such a way that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If it is planned to install the window on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the deglazing of a deaf sash may not be carried out - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned, installation will become somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended attachment points. They have serrated or even hooks, which must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to make a moderate effort, for example, knocking out with a mounting hammer - and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, it will securely hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then they are bent so that they fit into the window frame when installed. opening.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, having beaten off the unreliable plaster layer (if any), and facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with a finish.

The rest of the preparation steps do not differ from those about to which were mentioned above.

Installation and fixing of the window in opening

Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against tipping the frame outward, it is exposed to the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. Can you give one good advice- temporarily fix the window approximately in the center on top of the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and it will be much easier to work.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower jumper of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical blockage of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if there is an opportunity to purchase them, then it will be ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to another, you can set the desired height to the nearest millimeter.

You can, of course, completely get by with wooden wedges or linings, but often this requires trimming, replacing, installing several pieces in a “pyramid”, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can move on to fixing it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the “unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the hardness of his hand. It happens that the perforator drill hits an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not kept, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole right through the frame is dangerous enough

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to re-set the window to its previous position and wedge it, but with drilled holes, this will already be easy to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared nest ...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, knocked out with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without a "fanatical" effort so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, then the plastic part is inserted first, and then the expansion nail is carefully driven in.

… followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, to be sure, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly against the surface of the window opening. Holes are drilled directly through their holes in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the method "without unpacking"

The standards define two fasteners per plate, although, judging by the numerous photographs on the Internet, many masters are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow you to install two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and low tide.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" mounting foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such a foam has a very significant expansion force, which can lead to even slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window needs to be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. With the help of a pistol, which has a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out upwards. In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is in a disassembled state, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, if necessary, making certain adjustments. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting - an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it completely hardens (in about a day), and the excess is cut off.

If a opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the hardened layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here may be different, for example, plastering or paneling.

But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free exit of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of damaging effects when freezing and expanding.

And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow from the inside either a direct ingress of water into the insulation layer, or the penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installing a window sill and tide

BUT. Installing a window sill can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or mounting foam, on special brackets or same using self-made fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the frame design itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the window sill plane. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedged from below for a snug fit to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and low tide is given. Pay attention to location film membranes.

Consider the option of installing a window sill on mounting foam, as one of the most common.

• Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight penetration into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
• Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, they ensure that the panel inserted into its intended slot on the frame or staging profile is occupied in an exactly horizontal position.
• Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the space below it is filled with foam, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by placing on the windowsill evenly along the entire length, for example, water containers.

• The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with mounting foam. She will and thermal insulator and act as glue.
• It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

• If there is a small gap between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next is the installation of a low tide from the outside. An exemplary circuit is shown in the figure.

The place of fastening of the ebb is already covered vapor permeable a membrane that completely covered the mounting foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the opening plane - the ebb located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, with a pitch of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted flush, and then it makes sense to smear its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the production profile - then you won’t have to be afraid of rainwater penetrating under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by gouging grooves for this. Then it will be easy to fix them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window into fully working condition.

• Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings¸ that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The glazing bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

• The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
• If necessary, an accurate one is made (how to do this - in a special article of the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative casings.

In fact, the installation of the window is completed. Only the issue of installation remained unresolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also paid attention to on the pages of our portal.

Finally, detailed Video instruction for installation plastic windows. Read, look, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Almost every novice master wants to learn how to install a plastic window himself. The advantages of such windows include not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. These designs are completed with fasteners and additional parts, so even a novice master will be able to install windows with his own hands. However, to do everything right, you should take into account the existing nuances. First of all, it is worth noting that it is very difficult to do the work alone, so it is recommended to involve an assistant.

Elements that will be needed in order to install plastic windows:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• mounting foam;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchor;
• building level;
• plumb;
• slopes;
• windowsill;
• ebbs.

Before purchasing windows, you will need to measure the opening, taking into account what the design is. It can be with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter are characteristic of the construction of foam blocks. It is worth knowing that such designs significantly reduce heat loss.

In the opening without a quarter, it will be necessary to order windows whose length is 5 cm less than the length of the window opening. The width should be less than the corresponding indicator of the opening by 3 cm. Slots of 1.5 cm should be provided along the contour, which in the future will need to be sealed with foam. Below you will need to leave 3.5 cm for the windowsill.

Windows with a quarter and without a quarter

Windows must be ordered by adding 3 cm to the width. The length remains unchanged. Insulating tapes will need to be applied not to the plastic frame, but to the place of contact of the quarters with the PVC window. The frame should be pressed to the quarters.

In the opening without a quarter as protective and decorative elements that can prevent the influence of external factors on technical properties mounting foam, external and internal slopes will be used.

It should be borne in mind that the larger the gap, the greater the consumption of expensive foam. If you want to save money, gaps larger than 4 cm can be partially filled with polystyrene foam or bricks. Slots from 1 to 4 cm are blown out exclusively with foam.

Windows in most cases are not placed in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer base 1/3 deep.

However, those who wish to mount the window with their own hands can use options with an offset in the direction they need. This must be taken into account when buying a window sill and related fixtures. To the width, which will be calculated based on the placement of the windows, you will need to add approximately 5 cm.

Existing frame fixation methods

The technology for installing windows will depend on the material from which the walls of the structure are built, as well as on the dimensions of the windows. Based on these factors, you need to choose the method of fixing the elements.

You can fix structures as follows:

1. Fixation with dowels, which are inserted into the wall through the prepared holes in the profile.
2. Plates with teeth that will need to be pressed into the profile. The elements are not mounted into the wall, but are installed by surprise and fixed with screws. When the installation is done, we foam the mounting seams and install the slopes, under which it will be possible to hide the anchor plates. The space between the opening plane and the slope must be filled with foam. To reduce the consumption of foam, part of which will go to additional alignment, a recess can be made under the plate.

The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used in most cases for the installation of heavy window structures. If the fastening is through, the window will resist various shock loads, which may occur, for example, during the use of windows with sashes that open in several directions. Anchors that pass through the frame will allow you to adjust the structure vertically and horizontally.

Fixing the frame when installing the window

People who are interested self-installation plastic windows of small sizes with blind double-glazed windows, the method of fixing with anchor plates is suitable.

For the installation of plates in an opening made of concrete or brick, it is recommended to prepare small recesses so that it is not necessary to apply an extra layer for leveling before installing the slopes.

In some cases, wizards use both methods. The anchors are immersed in the walls through the side parts of the frame and the base of the structure, and the upper part is fixed with plates. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Window and opening preparation

The opening must be cleaned of dust, debris and paint residues. If the installation of plastic windows will be carried out in an existing opening, then the top layer must be cut off. The foam will need to adhere firmly to this layer.

The gaps between the frame and the opening can only be filled with foam.

To prepare a window, do the following:

1. We release the frame from the sash. To do this, remove the pin, which is mounted in the upper loop. Next, you need to carefully pick it up at the bottom. The element must be lifted and removed from the bottom loop. Double-glazed windows must be removed from blind windows. To do this, you will need to first remove the longitudinal, and then the transverse glazing beads. To remove the glazing beads, you need to insert a knife or spatula into the slot, and then slowly move it. It is worth noting that a small window can be installed even without dismantling the sashes.
2. The double-glazed window at an angle must be leaned against the wall, then placed on a flat base, which is covered with cardboard. It is not allowed to install the window flat, as cracks may appear due to the ingress of pebbles.
3. Remove the protective film from the outer base of the frame. In the future, this will be much more difficult to do, so it is recommended to remove it at this stage.
4. Finally, you need to place a place for mounting fasteners. The recommended installation step for these devices is 40 cm. If you plan to use mounting plates, you will need to attach them to the frame in advance with self-tapping screws. Holes must be made under the anchor or self-tapping screws, while the drill should be placed on the outside of the frame.

Window structure after installation

The sequence of steps for installing windows

The frame will need to be inserted into the opening. First you need to lay plastic corners or small bars around the perimeter. These elements will be needed to provide a technological gap. The blades need to be moved slightly so that it is possible to clearly set the frame horizontally and vertically with the same slots. The location is recommended to check the building level. Blades should be placed close to the fixing point with screws or anchors.

Speaking about how to install plastic windows, you should know that installation can be done in several ways. Therefore, at this stage there will be differences. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. A self-tapping screw must be screwed into the opening of a wooden house through the recesses in the frame. In this case, you do not need to screw the fasteners all the way.
2. On foam concrete or brick walls, points should be marked through the recesses in the frame, after which the frame should be removed, holes should be drilled with a drill that matches the material. Then we put the frame in place and install the fastener.
3. There is no need to perform any complicated steps when installing on anchor plates. They will need to be bent so that they adjoin the place that is intended for their attachment.
4. The final fixation is performed after checking the horizontals and verticals with a plumb line. It is not necessary to tighten the elements strongly, as the frame may bend. Screwing must be completed when the hat is level with the frame.
5. The parts that were removed will need to be returned to their place in the reverse order, and then the product should be checked for functionality.
6. The gaps must be filled with construction foam. The seams are closed with a protective tape. From the outside, the insulation tape must be drowned.
7. Foam needs to fill the gap under the drainage system.
8. At the next stage, the window sill is mounted. A plastic structure of several centimeters will need to be brought under the sweet clover.