At what angle to install the bath. Bath self-installation

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complicated matter. A bathtub is a bulky item that requires careful handling; chipping off the enamel is easy, but. Steel and plastic bathtubs must be turned very carefully: the coating may crack from deformation. It is impossible to warp a cast-iron bath, but it is so heavy and strong that it can break a wall or a door by itself. In addition, the installation of the bath has to be done in a cramped room. Therefore, the first condition for self-installation of the bath is a strong, skillful assistant. One or with a stupid weak helper can not cope.

The second point is the installation of bathroom plumbing fixtures. This will have to be done almost by touch. That is, you can not be white-handed. You must have developed a tactile sense; Simply put - your hands must be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. An instrument accidentally dropped into the tub can cause irreparable damage. And if the bath is acrylic, then blind holes will have to be drilled in it. Here you need to be extremely careful: it is very easy to pierce acrylic with a drill.

Which bath to choose

If it is planned to replace the bath, and not transfer the existing one, then you need to immediately decide which one to take:

1. Steel ("tin") cheap and easy to work. A sturdy man with working plumbing skills can install one alone. But it is short-lived - it “plays” when water is filled / released, which does not benefit the enamel. A steel bathtub can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bathtub can be installed close to three walls; in this case, the deformations from alternating loads are reduced by an order of magnitude.
2. Cast iron- eternal, with proper handling, but expensive. Working with her is very difficult: hard. And it's not just about weight: plant cast iron bath on already without damaging it is almost impossible. The siphon has to be attached to the bathtub in advance, but, turning the bathtub, again, it is easy to damage it. In addition, if the bath is on decorative open legs, then leveling it is a chore, and adjustable legs break easily from lateral force, for example, if someone slips and flops in it. So a cast-iron bathtub with adjustable legs can only be recommended for installation between three walls.
3. Plastic (acrylic) bathtubs last up to 15-20 years. It is expensive, but cheaper than cast iron. You need to work with it together, but without strain, as with cast iron, and without any particular difficulties. Damaged coatings are easier to repair than enamel. You can say perfect option, with the exception of: it is unacceptable to get aggressive detergents, neither concentrated nor in aqueous solution. In fact, you can only swim in it.

About bath heat loss

At current prices for hot water bathing in the bath is a luxury; cheaper prices are not expected. In this regard, the heat loss of the bathroom becomes important. In ascending order, the baths are arranged as follows:

• Acrylic- the most economical. It warms up instantly and cools down very slowly: plastic is a poor conductor of heat. If a temperature of 60 degrees is set on the boiler, then to fill an ordinary semi-recumbent acrylic bathtub with water at 40 degrees, its capacity of 50 liters is enough.
• Steel- not at all economical, as it might seem. It warms up quickly, but also effectively gives off heat into space, in the form of infrared radiation. A boiler is needed for 80 liters, or on a 50-liter one, you need to set the upper temperature limit to 80 degrees. But at such a temperature, in just a month or two, an expensive magnesium protector in it will “burn out”.
• Cast iron bath- a calorie eater. And she warms up for a long time, and gives off heat well: metal after all. A boiler is needed for at least 100 liters, and for the money - washing in a cast-iron bath will cost 1.5 times more than in steel, and 2.5 times more expensive than in acrylic.

Bathroom preparation

Walls

If the installation of a new bathtub is timed to coincide with the repair of the bathroom, then it is better to postpone the wall cladding "for later", after the installation of the bathtub. Why? Here, we put the bath close to the bare wall, made the waterproofing of the gaps (see below). We start tiling from the bottom, from the bath. The overhanging lower edge of the tile (it also needs to be waterproofed after laying the tile) forms a kind of teardrop, which greatly reduces the likelihood of rot and mold.

Note: in In this case, an incomplete row of tiles in height will be visible. For the sake of preserving the decorative qualities of the cladding, it is better to put it in the middle of the height of the wall - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip along the wall is made of tiles of a different color, then it can turn out even more beautiful than expected.

If there is only a bath replacement, then a new one on legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned out 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm higher than the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, then it will be difficult to make the gap that has appeared aesthetically pleasing: although the facing tile does not burn out, dirt has eaten into its previously hidden part, which cannot be removed.

Floor

The floor under the bath must be flat and durable; especially - under the cast-iron, which weighs a lot even empty. In this case, you need to make sure that the tiles on the floor are laid on solid cement with extrusion, and not on the “comb”. Under the weight of the bathtub, tiles can crack from the slightest void underneath.

Note: in order not to re-lay the floor and not care about its strength at all, you can lay two larch boards (logs) on the floor (it is from it, only teak is suitable from other wood, but it is not widely available). The boards are laid along so that the legs of the bath fall on them. The tree must be, and then proliferated or impregnated with PVA putty through and through. A wooden pillow will not only distribute the load on the floor, but will also solve all problems with the height of the bath, see below. However, before waterproofing the gaps and / or cladding, the boards need to shrink: fill the bathtub with water to the top and hold it for at least two days, and preferably a week.

bathtub height

The installation height of the bathroom is important not only for its interface with the wall cladding and the convenience of plumbing work. A higher raised bath will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee. This is important primarily for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely it is for any infection from the sewer to seep through it in the reverse order.

Then, the flow from the high bath will go more intense. How long it takes to empty is not so important. Another thing is important: an additional rise of the bath by only 4-5 cm with the right drain fittings almost completely eliminates the accumulation of hair on the drain grid and in the siphon. Anyone who has ever taken out this, to put it mildly, very, very unattractive lump, knows what this means.

Selection of drain fittings

Material

Bathtub drain fittings are mainly made from two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be recognized by greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene reinforcement is more expensive, but has important advantages over vinyl:

1. Polyisopropylene is several times stronger than PVC; accordingly, the probability of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
2. Polyisopropylene is durable and resistant to aggressive environments, it does not become brittle over time.
3. The microstructure of the surface of polyisopropylene is smoother than PVC, and is not tuberculate, but striated. Therefore, propylene plumbing is much less prone to clogging than PVC.
4. Due to the same smoothness, the hydraulic resistance of propylene pipes is one and a half times lower than that of PVC. That is, a propylene overflow hose with the same cross section will let more water pass through itself, and there is less risk of flooding neighbors.

typical bathroom drain assembly diagram

Drain

Do not take the "Chinese" drain, assembled on a bolt. The bolt will rust even if the mesh is stainless steel. Within a month, the rust will seize the bolt so that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: in which case it will be necessary to break it down and install a new one. There is no point in changing the bolt to brass or bronze: the material will turn green and grab in the same way. And it’s also pointless to sharpen a stainless steel bolt to order: you don’t know the grade of steel from which the mesh is made. Therefore, a bolt from another stainless steel in water with a mesh forms a galvanic couple, electrocorrosion will immediately begin with the same setting.

Drain mesh

Also, do not take a drain with a grid in the form of a cross of two crossbars. Such a net is a very good hair catcher, and it is difficult and disgusting to tear them out of there. Grid of arranged in a circle round holes it is better. But the best (and most expensive) option is a mesh of oblique profiled slots. In a bath with such a drain, you can manually wash the carpet, calico, flannel, and the drain will not clog, and the mesh will remain clean.

cork chain

The usual cork chain is soon torn, and in any case covered with a coating of salts, which does not add to the attractiveness of the bath. There are drains with remote controlled plugs, but they are expensive and prone to breakage. Therefore, advice: immediately replace the chain with a thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm, fishing line, better colored, it is clearly visible in the water.

overflow pipe

Do not take hard - this is a relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to install, and its clearance with the same outer diameter is larger, which means that there is less chance of overflow.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bath you will need some special tool:

• Rule. This is a flat rigid bar the length of the diagonal of the bath. Needed to level the bathtub. Aligning diagonally even an amateur does in two steps, and aligning along the sides requires 4-6 iterations, and it often turns out that the drain cracked after that.
• Fork wrench for tightening the release parts. You can’t grab it with adjustable pliers, and it’s extremely inconvenient with pliers, and you can damage it.

Small rubber mallet. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bath during its assembly. Tapping with a metal hammer due to resonance can cause microcracks in the enamel, and a wooden mallet will not give the necessary force and accuracy of impact.

Note: like a rubber hammer, you can adapt a chasing hammer by pulling a piece of durite hose over its spherical butt.

Of the materials you will need silicone sealant (sealants based on MS are expensive and significant benefits they don’t have before silicone) and cotton (“rag”) electrical tape, if the bath is acrylic. A drill stopper is made from electrical tape. PVC tape slips easily. But an absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same durite hose, tightly stretched over the drill.



About leveling and pairing the outlet with the sewer

The basic principle of alignment is to raise the lowered corner, not to lower the raised one. Remember, the higher the bath, the cleaner the drain. But, if a rigid rubber cuff is used to interface the outlet pipe of the bathtub with the sewer, then it may simply not fit into place, or turn out if already installed, or the drain may break.

Therefore, the final pairing with the sewer must be done after alignment, and the cuff should be taken soft, from micropork or neoprene, so that the drain outlet can become tilted. Instead of a cuff, it is preferable to use raw rubber or soft rubber sealant - it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; estimated service life - 100 years. In the USSR, it was known as "military sealant".

But the easiest option is to purchase drain fittings with a wider outlet pipe so that the gap can simply be filled with silicone. It is impossible to blow out with mounting foam: it expands greatly when it hardens; the influx from the inside can block the outlet, and everything will have to be redone.

Actually, diagonal alignment is done like this:

1. The rule is laid diagonally on the bathtub, a level is placed on it and horizontal is achieved by tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
2. Transfer the rule to another diagonal, repeat the procedure.
3. Check if the initial diagonal has gone astray. If the floor is level, this does not happen.

When leveling along the sides, the level is placed on the side of the bath and the legs of this side are adjusted. Then they move to the other side, but after leveling there, the horizontality of the original side goes astray, and you have to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: it is necessary to achieve exactly horizontality. The inclination of the bottom of the bath bowl to the drain is already provided.

Sewer preparation

Pipe branch sewer pipe and the pipe itself from the inside must be dry for reliable sealing. Firstly, for this, when installing a bath, in no case should there be a drain from the kitchen.

Secondly, the sewer pipe and the pipe half a meter to the sides must be well dried from the inside. Plaque can not be cleaned off if it is small, but it must be dried thoroughly. This is done, as you probably already guessed, by the wife's hair dryer, which can not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installing the bath, try to send your family somewhere. Except, perhaps, for an adult son - an assistant.

Scheme-example of installing a bath:



Installing an acrylic bath

To install an acrylic bath, you will first have to attach complete guides (lodgements) for legs to its bottom. They are installed across the bottom on special complete self-tapping screws.

The marking of the fastenings of the lodgements for self-tapping screws is done strictly according to the instructions. If nothing is said about this, then the positions of the lodgements are standard: front 7 inches (17.78 or just 17-18 cm) from the inner edge of the drain hole along the length; back - at the place where the bowl passes into the back rounding.

The lodgements are applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, the drilling points are marked with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, and they are drilled with a drill with a limiter. Drilling depth - 3/4 of the length of the body of the self-tapping screw.

Then the previously inverted bathtub is placed on its side and drain fittings are mounted. There are nuances here:

• All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
• The drain gasket is installed OUTSIDE.
• The gasket between the overflow and the overflow hose is conical, i.e. wedge-shaped in section. It must be placed with the tip of the wedge to the edge of the hose, so that when tightened, it will be pressed into the spacer.
• Threaded connections do not tighten tightly.

The bath is turned upside down again, the legs are mounted. The adjusting screws are screwed in with a measurement so that they protrude equally. Next, the bath is turned over and brought into the bathroom; a more experienced worker should be on the side of the drain.

Then the bath is carefully put in place, moving close to the walls. At the same time, an experienced one makes sure that the outlet of the bath gets into the sewer pipe. Then the bath is leveled, the outlet is sealed. Until the sealant has hardened, the joints are tightly tightened with a fork wrench: who is larger, sits in the bath and holds, and who has smaller hands, bends, reaches out and twists: all turnkey places are outside. After the sealant hardens (if it is silicone; if it is a soft sealant, immediately), check for leaks.

If it does not flow, or is eliminated, the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the walls are sealed with the same silicone. Streaks and influxes of silicone are immediately removed with a rag soaked in vinegar. It remains to install the screen, but more on that later.

steel bath

Installation steel bath done in the same way as acrylic, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into regular fasteners and fixed with bolts, nuts on threaded studs or wedges. You need to fix it tightly, but gradually, shaking the legs and tapping them with a rubber mallet. The legs should sit in their places like a glove.

Here, too, there is a nuance: if the backlash of the fastening of the legs allows, you need to lay pieces of rubber from the car camera under their surfaces in contact with the bath bowl. Then the bath will ring less when filled with water.



Cast iron bath

The installation of a cast-iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and it is risky to turn it around for the environment. Therefore, if the dimensions of the bathroom allow, the “naked” bathtub should be immediately brought there, and there it should already be equipped with a drain and legs. If the bath is on decorative legs, then its alignment is also done in a “naked” form on the spot, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Leveling a bathtub on decorative legs is a time-consuming and extremely responsible operation. Leg pads negate aesthetics, and filing legs requires precise measurements and professional skills. And each time such a bath needs to be dragged out, turned over, and then again put on legs and dragged. Therefore, for a bathtub on decorative legs, the floor of the bathroom needs to be increased in advance.

It is also inconvenient and risky to put a cast-iron bathtub on its side for drain installation. Therefore, it should be immediately placed on two strong boards, and to install the drain, raise the front edge by placing chocks or bricks under them. And work extremely carefully: a “splashed” bath guarantees a broken arm or a crushed hand.

plastic bath

There are cheap substitutes on the market. acrylic bathtubs. When installing such plastic bath, in addition to a particularly careful attitude towards her, she needs to put several larch chocks under the bottom, processed, like the logs under the legs. With such a pillow, a very budget bath may well last a dozen years.



Screen

The bath screen can be either complete or complete. homemade screens many are described, and their designs are surprising for such simple device variety. Only one recommendation can be singled out: do not bring the screen to the floor by 5-6 cm. The trash under the bathroom will still not be visible, but such a gap will reduce the likelihood of damaging the screen with a kick.

For complete screens, a groove or latches are provided at the bottom of the bathtub. In this case, sealing the outlet into the sewer and the gaps between the bathroom and the wall is done last. The installation of the screen under the bath is carried out with the bath already leveled and standing in place, the outlet of which is still hanging in the air in the middle of the sewer outlet.

The bath is lifted, the screen is pushed into place, and the bath is carefully lowered until the top of the screen goes into the groove or catches the latches. Then the outlet and cracks are sealed. To seal the outlet, complete screens are provided with hatches or sliding doors.

Note:


1. If the complete screen is deaf, then you need to look for drain fittings with a flexible corrugated outlet pipe. Then the sealing of the interface with the sewer is done in advance. But this is not the best option: the maintainability of such a drain is zero.
2. For a bathtub with a complete screen, a bedding made of lags under the legs is not applicable, except perhaps in some way to raise the screen. And you need to align such a bath not only horizontally, but also along the height of the screen.

In general, the best thing is not a complete and not home-made, but a purchased bath screen. Such screens are supplied with adjustable legs. They can even be adapted to a bathtub standing still: wrap the legs all the way, move them forward, and turn them away until they rest against the bottom of the bathtub.

Summary

Self installation bathtubs, especially cast iron bathtubs - hard and difficult work. A beginner can be recommended to independently install only acrylic or steel bath.

Installing a bathtub is a responsible, but relatively simple event. With a strong desire to deal with installation work can on your own, refusing the services of third-party specialists and significantly saving money.

To make the process as easy, fast and interesting as possible, you need to carefully prepare for it.

In the modern market of sanitary equipment are presented acrylic, steel and cast iron bathtubs.

Cast iron containers proven option with impressive service life and heat savings. The material is resistant to various loads and in general does not cause any complaints.

The only bad things are the high cost of such products, and big weight . Due to the significant mass of the bath, its independent installation can be difficult - you will have to involve an assistant.

Acrylic bathtubs have many advantages, among which:

• light weight;
• almost complete absence of noise when filling with water;
• many different shapes, sizes and configurations;
• affordable cost.

Steel bathtubs also weigh little and are relatively cheap, however when filling such a container with water, a lot of noise is created. Yes, and steel products serve for a relatively short time.

Thus, if you have sufficient budget and want to buy the most durable and reliable product, give preference to a cast-iron bath.

If your top priority is custom shape and configuration as well as beautiful and modern appearance, buy an acrylic product.

In the absence of special requirements for the parameters of the bath and desire to save, feel free to install a steel container. Otherwise, the choice is yours, and the article "" will help you decide faster.

Determine the size and shape of the container

Bathtubs of various shapes (oval, circle, rectangle, corner and non-standard designs) and sizes (on average from 1.2 to 2.1 m) are presented on the modern market.

When choosing the configuration and dimensions of the tank, focus on your preferences and available space.

Think about how the new bathtub will fit into the interior of the room, whether it will fit at all, whether it will be convenient to use the room after installing a similar bathtub, etc. In general, these moments are left to your discretion..

But there is a number of standards and requirements regarding various clearances and gaps. So at what height is the bath properly installed and what distance should be between other elements in the room?

• Before the bathroom you need to leave order 90 cm more free space.
• The size of the space between the toilet and the bath should be not less than 75 cm.
• The distance between the top edge of the bathtub without legs and the floor should be about 0.5 m, if the bath on legs, this figure increases to about 64 cm.

Preparing for installation

Regardless of the chosen material for the manufacture of the bath, for its installation You will need the following tools and fixtures:

• Screwdriver Set;
• grinder of small size;
• chisel;
• level;
• a hammer;
• gas key;
• cement mortar;
• insulating tape;
• mounting foam;
• drain fittings;
• corrugation with a diameter of 4 cm, rubber cuff 4x5 cm in case of connection to cast iron pipes, 5 cm drain corrugation when connected to plastic pipes.

The installation of the bath is best done before the walls are tiled.- in such a situation, the risk of damage to the finish is significantly reduced.

You need to do the following:

• shut off the water supply;
• dismantle the old bath;
• break out (plastic) or cut out (metal) old drain;
• clean the sewer socket and insert the corrugation into it, then thoroughly coat all joints with a silicone-based sealant;
• level the floor if necessary.

When choosing a place to install a new sanitary ware, remember: after installing the bath, there should be access to the pipes, but at the same time, the container should fit as tightly as possible against the wall.

At the end, you will only have remove construction waste.

Step-by-step instructions for acrylic products

Work on the installation of such a product is carried out in several simple steps. You only need follow the given instructions, and everything will definitely work out.

Mounting the frame/legs

How to properly install a bathtub on legs or a frame yourself? We do the following:

1. unpacking support elements;
2. flip the bath we mark on its bottom the places of attachment of the legs. One must be placed near the head of the bath, the second - closer to the drain hole;
3. according to the marks we drill holes for the screws.

The depth of the hole should be no more than 0.6 cm. Be careful not to drill through the tub. For greater convenience, make a mark on the drill with an insulating tape.


4. fasten the mounting brackets to the bathtub. For this we use self-tapping screws. We fasten the legs of the sanitary ware to the installed mounting brackets.

Siphon connection

We work in the following order:

1. first execute top drain connection, and after - lower;
2. we assemble the siphon;
3. we treat surfaces with a solvent for their thorough degreasing and then apply a thick layer of sealant.

The choice of siphon should be given special attention. The best way- This chrome-plated brass with semi-automatic system for opening/closing drain taps.

About installing storage electric water heater you can read in .

Sewer connection

One of the last steps in each of the above instructions was to connect the tub to the sewer. Let's consider this process in more detail.

Kits for connecting the bath to the sewer are sold unassembled. We begin work with the assembly of the system.

First we need to collect individual nodes. To do this, we take a hose, through which the overflow and drain are connected, and we put gaskets on it.

The gasket is made on a cone. It needs to be arranged thin side towards the ends of the tube.

Then we put nuts and gaskets on the elements of the drain structure and assemble its body. To do this, we fasten a part of the body to one side, and a drain neck to the other. In the end you get a water seal - a ready-made system of pipes.

In order for the connections of the structural elements to be of the highest quality and reliable, we place the cone-shaped gasket so that one of its parts enters the inner diameter of the second part to be connected and seals the resulting interface under the influence of a plastic nut.

Our next task is to connection of the drain body with the drain pipeline. To do this, we insert the pipeline into the drain body, not forgetting the rule for installing the gasket, after which we press the connection with a nut.

Next, proceed to the assembly of the overflow. To do this, we put on the sealing ring, after which we insert the body of the overflow system with inside our new bath. We attach a decorative overlay to the front side, and then we fix the structure with a bolt.

Next to us you need to insert the tube into the overflow body. We do this from the inside of the bath. Due to the tube, the connection of the drain body with the overflow will be ensured.

We fix the drain body to the bath. Before that, insert the gasket into the drain hole of the bath. We place the gasket with the thick side under the bathtub, and the thin side on its front side.

We attach the drain body from the inside, after which we put the drain neck on the drain hole. It must be located on the front side of the sanitary ware.

We attach the drain to the bath with a bolt. Carefully tighten the bolt, tighten the rubber seals.

We connect the hose from the overflow hole to the drain body and fix it with a plastic nut. We connect the drain hose to the sewer system.

The bathroom is connected to the sewer. Turn on the water and check the tightness of the connections. If it drips somewhere, carefully tighten the nuts.

We tighten the plastic nuts only by hand, without using any additional tools.

In conclusion, all that remains is to finish the finish, if you want it or if the design idea requires it.

Finishing

There are several basic options for finishing the decoration of the bath. You can do the following:

• tile the bathtub;
• close the space between the upper rim of the bathtub and the floor with moisture-resistant drywall;
• install a ready-made decorative screen.

Choose the method that you like best, and get to work.

Regardless of the chosen method finishing, you should leave windows for access to the drain and pipes so that, in the event of a breakdown, the necessary repairs can be carried out without hindrance. It is strictly forbidden to close these places tightly.

Now you have all the necessary information for self-installation and connection of the bath. Follow the instructions given and you'll be fine.

Successful work!

Important place in life modern man occupies the bathroom. In fact, this is the place, well, of course after the bedroom, where a person begins and ends his day. The place where we put ourselves in order, the place where we wash our things and perform hygiene procedures, and most importantly, this room where we relax, lying in warm water and thinking about the eternal!

And, despite the large number of functions assigned to this room, how microscopic it sometimes is. I would even say criminally microscopic, when two people, once in such a bathroom at the same time, are unlikely to be able to disperse.

It's no secret that the bathroom (the bowl itself) takes up a lot of space and, accordingly, the amount of free space, ease of movement and ease of use of other plumbing fixtures will depend on how it is installed. Taking into account the fact that, until recently, in most of the housing stock, very little space was allocated for this room, during the capital correct installation this huge water tank is of paramount importance.

The issue of organizing space

Now we will consider the issue of bath installation, connection to the sewer system using the example of a small Soviet-era bathroom.

Of course, despite the small size of the room, I would like to put this ancient invention more so that the length allows not only to sit down, but also to lie down in warm water and relieve the fatigue accumulated during the day. Therefore, before the installation is carried out, one must ask another question: - Where in bathroom is it the best place to put it? After all, the way this bathing accessory was installed during the "Soviet" times is not the fact that this is the best option.

Let me tell you my experience in this matter. The size of my bathroom is simply microscopic (length 2.5 m, width 1.35 m), but I wanted to put a bathroom in it, and, and, and. And you know, I did it! Initially, the 1.5 m long bathroom was located along a long wall, and the toilet stood at the end, as in the photo below.

After a little thought, I decided to put it along the short wall of the room, which is only 1.35 m long, in place of the toilet, and maximize the space. As always, I want a little more, and I decided to put a 1.5 m long bath along this wall, i.e. without losing anything in the volume of poured water.

To do this, it was necessary to make a strobe 8 cm deep on the walls at the height of the sides on one side and on the other. Moreover, on the wall opposite front door(where the mixer is located) I made the strobe longer, to the level of the passage, in order to somehow insert this massive object into place.

He brought the bath, inserted it into the strobe from one end, and, as if on rails in the strobes, pushed it all the way to the wall adjacent to the long side of the four hundred liter container. Of course, the work is hard, but it is better to spend a little effort and time, so that later you can use all the plumbing accessories as conveniently as possible.

But this is so, a lyrical digression, how you can save the existing space and not lose the quality of the surrounding plumbing. Still, I will move on to describing how to install the bath - our main question.

DIY step-by-step instructions for installing a bathtub

The technology for installing a cast-iron and steel bathing tank will be approximately the same, except that a cast-iron bathtub weighs a lot and, accordingly, is harder to work with. Step by step, this process will look like this:

Step 1. We fasten the legs in an inverted position onto the bathtub.

On cast-iron bathtubs, due to its manufacture by casting, sometimes there are sags (casting defects) at the installation sites of the legs. These influxes prevent the legs from fully and well fitting to the body, and in this case it is recommended to remove excess metal using an abrasive wheel mounted on a grinder (grinder). In no case should you knock with a hammer (mechanically knock down with a chisel) influxes. Cast iron is a very fragile material and as a result of an unsuccessful blow, you can irretrievably lose a new thing.

Step 2. We bring the bathroom and put it in place.

I have done this procedure before. This makes it possible to press our "artificial sea" as close as possible to the wall and to join the tile to the edge, as a result of which the seam between the bathroom and the wall is minimal, and its sealing is not difficult. In my case, when grouting, I just went through the grout and the seam between the bathroom and the wall.

Step 3. We set the bath to the desired height.

At this step, you need to pay attention to the height of your sewer system. The height of the legs with screwed in adjusting bolts suggests the location of the drain sewer at a height of no more than 50-100 mm from the floor level. The drain level should be 20-30 mm higher than the sewer level. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to put linings under the legs until the required height difference is formed.

Step 4. We make adjustment of the horizontal position of the installation in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

To do this, we apply the level in the longitudinal and transverse directions on the edge of the bath.

By screwing in or unscrewing the adjusting bolts located on the legs, we achieve horizontality. If the level in the longitudinal and transverse direction shows the horizon, then the bathtub is installed correctly. Due to the natural slope of the bottom, which is due to the technological feature of the casting of the product, a natural flow of water into the drain hole is obtained.

At this stage, after fine-tuning the horizontal, I additionally secured the achieved position by filling the strobes, which were installed in place.

In addition, it is necessary to tighten the lower lock nut on the leg adjusting bolts.

Step 5. Sewer drain installation.

The water trap for draining water from the bathroom is sold disassembled, as in the photo below.

So let's start by assembling it. And the first step is to assemble the individual nodes.

• We put gaskets on the hose connecting the drain and overflow;

Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention that the gasket is made on a cone and the thin side should be turned towards the ends of the tube.

• We put a fixing plastic nut and a sealing gasket on the drain hose;

We also orient the gasket with a thin side to the nearest end of the tube.

• We put on the fixing nuts and gaskets on the components of the drain body;

• We assemble the drain body by screwing the drain neck to one end, and part of the body to the other;

As a result, we get a system of tubes that forms a water seal. It constantly contains water and prevents penetration unpleasant odors sewerage system to our premises.

Please note that when assembling the elements, the cone-shaped gasket of one part must enter the inner diameter of the other mating part, and, tightening it with a plastic nut, seal the resulting connection.

• We connect the drain body with the drain pipeline.

We also insert the pipeline into the drain body, correctly filling the gasket, and tighten it with a connecting nut.

• Collecting overflow.

Putting on the sealing rubber ring, we insert the body of the overflow system from the inside of the bath. On the front side, we apply a decorative metal plate and fix the entire structure by tightening the bolt.

• From the inside of the bathtub, we insert a tube into the overflow body connecting the overflow and the drain body;

• We fix the drain body to the bath. We first insert a sealing gasket into the drain hole of the bath.

We place the thin side of the gasket on the front side of the bathtub, the thick one under the bathtub from the bottom of the drain hole.

• We attach the drain body from the inside, from the front side of the bathtub we put a metal drain neck on the drain hole.

This completes the installation of the bath, its connection is completed. You can turn on the water and check all connections for leaks. If digging is detected, tighten the union nuts a little. All plastic nuts are tightened "by hand" without the use of any tools. Usually this effort is enough for a quality and leak-free connection.

On this question, the installation of a bathtub, the connection to the sewer system can be considered closed.

In the following articles, we will continue to simply and in our own words talk about complex things in construction and repair.

Bathroom renovation is a costly undertaking, not only in terms of construction and finishing materials, but also the cost of the services of masters. In this article, we will tell you in detail how the bath is installed, whether it is possible to do it yourself, without the involvement of third-party specialists. Thanks to this article, you will be able to save a significant amount of your renovation budget.

The installation of the bath takes place in several stages, some of them are common, while others are included depending on the material of manufacture of the equipment itself.

1. Room preparation;
2. Bath preparation;
3. Assembly of the siphon group;
4. Bathtub installation;
5. Connection of drain fittings;
6. Decorative design.

If the bath is metal, then the second item is omitted. The installation procedure itself is not complicated, but care is required when working with small parts. The main difficulty lies in connecting the siphon group.

There are two options for doing this

1. Carry out the connection before installing the bath in its place. This is much easier, because access to the drain holes is not limited. And the process itself can be controlled visually. But during installation, extreme care will be required so as not to damage the installed fittings. Given that the bath is a large and heavy object, this is problematic.
2. Install the bath in its place, align it. Only then connect the siphon group. The complexity of the process is seen in the fact that the work must be carried out by touch. It is impossible to see from both sides of the bath at once. But in return, the installer has the opportunity to handle the bathroom more freely.

The second option seems to be more preferable. In the end, anyone can brush their teeth with their eyes closed, and the toothbrush does not get past the mouth. Therefore, we will focus on the second method.

For the work of installing a bathtub, installers charge 1500-2500 rubles. And work there, with a prepared base, no more than half an hour. Therefore, we recommend installing a bath with your own hands.

Bathroom preparation

Work should be divided into two categories. It is one thing if the bath is installed in a newly renovated room, and quite another thing if the old equipment is being replaced with a new one.

In the first case, you do not need to prepare anything. Full repair, involves the preparation of the foundation. Note that floor tiles, if they cover the entire area of ​​​​the room, should be laid on the adhesive applied in a continuous layer, and not on several points. Otherwise, a bathtub filled with water, and even with a person inside, can break through the tile.

But this flaw can be leveled if two boards are placed under the legs, placing them along the length of the bath. The wood material is larch. From contact with water, the resins contained in the larch polymerize, and after a while the boards will be impossible even to cut with a hacksaw.

In the second case, it is necessary to revise floor covering. Pay special attention to the places where the legs of the new bath will be. It is possible that new supports will lie in a different place.

In addition, it is necessary to measure the level at which the bath will adjoin the wall. With highly likely, it can be assumed that the walls are tiled not to the floor. And after old bath, at the place where it adjoins the wall, a clearly noticeable line remains. It's unlikely to be wiped off. Microscopic particles have penetrated into the pores of the glazed coating, with the formation of an inseparable conglomerate. If this defect cannot be eliminated, then it should be hidden. For this purpose, boards should be placed under the legs of the bath ( as described above).

Heated drying oil is applied to the boards in a thick layer. Then they can be painted in such a color that they do not differ from the dominant background.

Separately, we recall the optimal height of the bath. In the USSR, experts calculated that it is most convenient for an average person to raise his leg in order to step into the bath, to a height of no more than 60 cm. This parameter was included in the SNiP as a recommendation. But now there are many more bath models on the market, with different overall dimensions. So be guided by this case, should be your own preferences.

However, you need to know about one interesting feature. If the bath drain is located at least 3-5 cm higher than usual, then the water will flow faster. This will no longer allow blockages and deposits to form in the drainage fittings. Even on the drain grate, there will be no hair left.

If tiles were not laid under the bathroom, then it is recommended to slightly raise the level of the floor in this particular place. Even 1 cm of added height will be enough to keep water out of the tub.

This will require:

• Quick-drying self-levelling screed (20 kg):
• Deep penetration primer;
• Guide metal profile;

The floor surface is treated with a primer, and during its drying, with the help of a metal profile, a side is arranged. To do this, the profile is cut in such a way that it fits exactly in length between opposite walls. Adhesive tape is glued to the back, this will not allow it to be grabbed with a screed. Having laid, the profile is screwed through the side wall with self-tapping screws to the floor in 3-4 places. Then the screed is diluted according to the instructions on the package, and poured into a fenced area. The layer thickness is selected individually. Considering that ≈ 15 kg of the finished solution is consumed per 1 m 2 of the screed with a thickness of 1 cm. And from 20 kg of dry mix you get ≈ 30 kg of solution, then the screed layer in the bathroom will be 1.2-1.5 cm.

The next day, the dried screed is once again coated with a primer.

Bath preparation

Special preparation requires only an acrylic bath. She needs to be supported. There are three options:

1. Legs. The standard solution for short-sighted users. A widely advertised option, but has several weak points. In particular, it is necessary to make blind holes in a monolithic case in several places. This increases the tension of the material. Self-tapping screws will be screwed into these holes, which, after filling the bath hot water also heat up. And their coefficient of thermal expansion does not match the same parameter for acrylic.
   Yes, and the load is expected to be significant. 130 liters of water + 70 kg weight of a person. That's 200kg on two flimsy supports. A very dubious choice.
2. Frame. Great alternative. Strong reliable frame made of profiled pipe, based on 6-8 legs. The integrity of the bath body is not violated. She's kind of in limbo. Please note that there are frames for all models of acrylic bathtubs.
3. Stand made of bricks or blocks. Cheap and capital option. But somewhat inferior to the frame, because there is no lateral support.
4. If the bath is old, then plan the installation for the last stage. Only after the base is completely mounted, you can start this work.

In objective consideration, there is no alternative to the frame. Depending on the shape of the bath, its price varies from 1800 to 2600 rubles. It is delivered disassembled. Connection of all components is carried out at the installation site of the bath, according to the attached instructions. IMPORTANT: the legs of the frame are height adjustable. After assembly, screw them in an equal number of turns, until the middle of the thread. This will make it possible to later more freely perform horizontal alignment.

Metal baths, both steel and cast iron, do not require special preparation. But they have one flaw that is easy to fix. We mean the high thermal conductivity of the metal. Such baths quickly heat up, and just as quickly give off heat to the surrounding air. This disadvantage can be leveled with the help of 3-4 cylinders of polyurethane foam. It is processed all outer surface metal bath. After polymerization of the foam, the cooling rate of water decreases by an order of magnitude. As a bonus, this treatment almost completely absorbs the sound of rushing water. If this is not essential for a cast-iron bath, then it is relevant for a steel bath.

In addition, the legs are screwed into the seats into the steel baths. TIP: between the body of the bath and the end of the threaded leg, we recommend laying a rubber gasket. This will further reduce the noise during water collection.

Assembly of the siphon group

Bathroom fittings sold separately. They are divided into two groups:

1. prefabricated;
2. Whole.

In the first case, the siphon group is assembled on threaded connections from small plastic parts. All curves are rectangular.

In the second case, the siphon is represented by a curved pipe. All bends are smooth, there are no threaded connections.

A one-piece siphon looks trivial, but it has huge advantages.

1. The more threaded connections and parts, the higher the likelihood of leaks;
2. Smooth bends do not impede the flow of water, draining is faster and the likelihood of deposits and blockages is extremely low;

And besides this, the siphon is not a subject for demonstration, and no one will see it except you. Therefore, an objective choice is a siphon with a solid body.

Its assembly consists in screwing through the cuff, the overflow system.

Bath installation

The bath must be installed by two people. Regardless of the material, this is a large-sized piece of furniture and one simply cannot cope with it.

For work you will need:

• Rule with a level;
• mallet;
• Adjustable wrench for leg adjustment.

The cast-iron bath is installed in the allotted place. With a properly prepared base, no adjustment is needed.

The acrylic bath is installed inside the assembled frame, and is slightly pressed down, until a characteristic click. This click means that the bathtub is in place and seated on the frame. Since the frame is prefabricated, it is required to adjust the plumbing according to the level of the horizon. To do this, it is better to use the diagonal method.

As a rule, the bathtub is laid diagonally, and if required, unscrewing the leg, raise the lowered side. Then the rule is placed on another diagonal, and again aligned, raising the lower edge. IMPORTANT: alignment is carried out only by lifting the low side. Lowering the high - you can not.
A steel bath is placed similarly to a cast-iron one. And the alignment according to the level of the horizon is carried out as in the acrylic counterpart.

Drain fitting connection

The assembled siphon group must be fixed at three points:

1. Drainer;
2. overflow;
3. Sewage pipe.

First, fittings are installed in the drain hole. Fixation is carried out with a screw through the drain grate. The gasket is put on the drain itself, it has a specific shape, and provides sealing from both sides at once. TIP: apply between the gasket and the body of the tub, a little silicone sealant . Do not tighten the screw all the way.

Then, by adjusting the height of the corrugated pipe, the overflow is fixed. Here the gasket is installed outside the tub. It has a conical shape, and the “point” is directed “from the bath”. The screw is tightened to the end.

After that, press the screw on the drain hole.

TIP: the screw stops turning as soon as the plane of the drain grate begins to sag.

The last one is inserted into the sewer, the sewer. To facilitate this process, lubricate both the pipe and the entrance to the sewer with laundry soap.

Screen installation

Almost always, steel and acrylic bathtubs are completed with screens. For cast iron, it must be purchased separately. But in any case, a ready-made screen is a more acceptable option than a home-made plastic construction.

To install it, you will need an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver.

Screen panels are assembled into a single structure. The legs are screwed into the seats and pressed to the maximum.

The screen is installed under the front edge of the bath, strictly vertically, focusing on a plumb line. Then the legs are unscrewed, and the top of the screen is pressed against the edge of the tub. On some models of acrylic bathtubs, there is a special groove where the top edge of the screen enters.

Complete fixation is accompanied by a characteristic click.