Norms

Oil for wooden stairs - protection and excellent appearance. Painting a wooden staircase - the choice of dyes and the main stages of work Painting a finished pine staircase by hand

To give a presentable appearance to a wooden staircase, it is processed and various coatings are used. Lacquer is the most popular finishing material. Before painting a pine or oak staircase in a house, it is necessary to prepare the structure for coating.

This material is a solution, which, when applied, forms a film on the wood surface. If there is no experience with varnish, then a completely logical question arises, how to choose the right paint for a wooden staircase?

There are several types:

alcohol-based resin solutions;
nitrocellulose;
formaldehyde;
alkyd;
acrylic;
based on organic solvents.

Alcohol-based varnishes have important positive qualities - the ability to dry quickly and high strength. They are very easy to apply, but they have low moisture resistance. Nitrocellulose, on the other hand, is resistant to moisture. They consist of a mixture of plasticizer, colloxylin and resin.

If the stairs are covered with formaldehyde varnish, the structure will become more resistant to wear. The resins included in the composition improve the adhesion of the varnish to the wood. The only drawback is toxicity and a characteristic odor that is difficult to remove.

Alkyd varnish penetrates very deeply into the wood, but despite this, it is not durable. They are quickly subject to wear and after some time the surface of the stairs will lose its aesthetic appearance. More often this material is used to cover rarely used products and elements.
However, alkyd-urethane varnish is suitable for painting stairs with your own hands on the street. The structure covered with this material is less slippery, which reduces the risk of injury in winter period.

A water-based varnish is well suited for coating stairs, especially if it consists of 2 components. If a solvent is used as the basis, then such a paintwork is one of the most reliable and resistant.

It is important to understand that depending on the type of wood and the selected coating, the result will vary. For example, if the staircase structure is made of coniferous wood - pine, spruce and others, then it is better to treat it with an opaque varnish. The secret of the unsightly appearance of such wood lies in the higher resin content.

Advice!
If larches or other tree species are chosen as the material, then transparent painting can be used, which will emphasize the natural texture.

What varnish to choose.

Types of varnishing

Among all paints and varnishes, there are 2 main ones: transparent and opaque. Experts recommend using a clear varnish if the wood is devoid of any defects. Most often choose wood species that have a characteristic pattern:

If there are minor defects, but the wood is generally excellent, you can primer to hide them. Before application, make sure that the surface is clean and dry, so that the finish is of the highest quality.

If the defects are large and it is not possible to hide them, for example, in pine, then you need to cover it with an opaque varnish. Usually a second layer is applied on top of the first to achieve the desired effect. Do not apply varnish if the wood has been coated with another material.

First of all, you should clean the surface of previous varnish coatings, dirt or nails, apply several layers of primer with a brush or spray gun, and only after that you can proceed to the finishing stage.

Application instructions

Before starting work, you need to put on goggles, gloves and a respirator. Finishing should be carried out in a well-ventilated area. Paint coatings have varying degrees of toxicity, and no matter what material the stairs will be processed with, it is better to play it safe and protect yourself and your health.

To cover the stairs with paint and varnish material you will need:

turpentine,
tassels,
metal brush or grinding tool.

Finishing with liquid compositions should be carried out with the help of brushes with natural pile, and with thick ones - with round hair.

First of all, the surface of the wooden stairs is cleaned from the previous coating, dirt, dust, grease. A similar procedure must be done carefully, the evenness of the coating depends on it.

If you have to work with liquid compositions, then the pile should have a length 2 times the diameter of the brush. If the choice fell on thick compositions, then the pile, on the contrary, should be shorter. The brush must be dipped in varnish, and then cleaned with turpentine. Further actions follow very simple instructions.

In the presence of any defects, finishing should be carried out only after priming. The varnish must be thoroughly mixed so that there are no formations. For achievement best result you need to hold the brush at a right angle. Otherwise, the layer will be applied unevenly, which may affect final result. The structures must be covered with wide strips over the entire surface, after which you should walk again, smoothing out the bumps.

High-quality brushes are distinguished by reliable fastening of the villi, but nothing can be guaranteed 100%. So that after drying there are no unpleasant surprises, it is better to check wooden stairs on the subject of pile. It is also worth stirring the paintwork material not only before starting work, but also periodically on time.

Lacquering the stairs.

Lacquering of balusters and stair pillars.

Finishing inside will be much easier and faster if you disassemble the stairs in advance. Each part can be covered in comfortable conditions, in addition, there will be access to all corners.

Coating steps with varnish in a disassembled state.

Before starting work, it is recommended to degrease all parts with a special impregnation. For stair construction, it is better to use only reliable and proven varieties of varnish. They are distinguished by their characteristic density, increased strength and much less spread, very convenient to use. The other side of the coin is that such paints and varnishes are much more expensive and it is not so easy to find them. But, if you think about it, it is better to buy a really high-quality varnish that will last a long time. If it was not possible to find it or the funds do not allow, you can use a good parquet composition.

Acrylic paintwork is inferior in its properties to a 2-component polyurethane composition made on the basis of a solvent. It should be understood that the staircase refers to structures that are quite intensively exploited. Therefore, it is better to opt for a semi-matte finish. This is due to the fact that it leaves the least traces.

To darken the shade of wood, it is better to use stain, rather than colored varnish. The stain is absorbed into the wood to a depth of several millimeters. This means that even if the wood wears out and wears off, it will not change its color. To slow down this process and add strength to the coating, it is necessary to apply an additional layer of transparent paintwork material, which is the final stage.

Vitaly

What is the best way to paint a wooden staircase to the second floor of a house with your own hands?

Modern residential buildings often have several floors or an attic, the entrance to which is carried out through internal stairs. Often flights of stairs and sites are being implemented. To create an interior in the same style, a wooden staircase to the second floor can be varnished or painted with environmentally friendly paint. In this article, answers to the question of how and with what to paint the stairs with your own hands.

Finishing a wooden staircase

There are two types of finishing wooden stairs:

Transparent - in this form finishing coating the wood texture is left open. Under a layer of colorless varnish, a unique pattern natural wood perfectly complements the overall interior decoration of the interior in the same style with the overall design.
Opaque finish - in this type of finish, a tonal finish layer of the coloring composition is applied to the wooden surface in a continuous layer, covering the texture of the wood.

Varnish compositions for finishing wooden stairs

Varnish compositions for wood structures are special compositions that form a durable layer with a matte, transparent, shiny surface.

The properties of varnish compositions are quite different:

Lacquer compositions based on alcohol resins- These finishing compositions are characterized by a short drying time. In 2 hours the coating is completely dry. Polishing the finish layer also does not cause any difficulties. But alcohol-based formulations have significant drawbacks: low moisture resistance and insufficient frost resistance. These restrictions allow the use of compounds only in warm rooms.
Lucky based on nitrocellulose– improved varnish formula allows the use of the composition for outdoor and indoor use.
Formaldehyde varnish compositions- the most common for finishing structures of internal wooden stairs. The varnish perfectly covers the surface, allows you to achieve a high quality finish.

Important! A huge minus when using this composition is persistent bad smell, which does not erode from the room for a long time.

Alkyd varnishes- made with the addition of various oil compositions that are well absorbed into natural wood. The top layer of the alkyd varnish coating is resistant to mechanical stress, however, the coating quickly becomes unusable - it quickly wears out. Such compositions should cover wooden stairs, which are of secondary importance, which are rarely used.

Opaque types of coating

Opaque coatings can be applied in several coats, completely hiding the texture and imperfections of the wood. Before applying the finishing compositions, it is required to completely clean the previously painted surfaces, to carry out a preliminary set of works on priming and puttying. Putty is able to hide small cracks and imperfections in wood, a primer layer increases the degree of adhesion of the coloring composition to the surface.

Tools for applying finishing compositions

For work on finishing stairs in the apartment with my own hands, you will need: bristle brushes and flutes; drying oil; primers; turpentine; varnish or paint.

Advice. Before the beginning finishing works work brushes should be carefully prepared, they are soaked in drying oil, then washed in turpentine.

Surface preparation

Before applying the paint composition, it is worth cleaning the surface of dust, paint or old varnish, remove dust, putty the stairs and cover with a primer.

Important! Varnish or other coloring composition should be thoroughly mixed before use.
The composition is applied to the surface with wide strokes, then the layer is leveled, while the brush is held slightly inclined.

Painting stairs: video

All photos from the article

Wood is a wonderful environmentally friendly natural material, it creates a special cozy and warm atmosphere in the house. But in its natural form, the service life of such products is short, and the price of processing stairs by professionals is often frightening. Therefore, more and more people are thinking about how to properly paint a wooden staircase with their own hands.

The specialists of our site have analyzed and collected for you the main recommendations on the technology of work.

The choice of composition for staining

The question of what is the best way to paint a wooden staircase in a house, at the preparation stage, is perhaps the most important. After all, even if you have a good command of the brush and follow all the steps correctly, a mistake in choosing the composition can nullify all efforts ().

Oil opaque paints are an excellent option if preserving the texture and natural color of the wood is not planned from the very beginning. Alkyd formulations are more suitable for pristine wood. Urethane-alkyd paints are commonly used for re-painting and for exterior work.

There are thickly grated and ready-made oil paints. To prepare a thickly grated composition with your own hands, stir the coloring powder with drying oil. For external work, thickly grated compositions are made on natural drying oil, for internal work - on synthetic.

Enamels are most often used for interior work. Here we have a wide palette of colors and a record-breaking drying time.

But such compositions cannot boast of durability. Plus, enamels have a glossy surface, which from a practical point of view is not very suitable for stairs.

Varnishes are the most popular compositions for painting stairs. With their help, you can highlight the texture, preserve the natural color of the material, or vice versa toned the surface.

The range of varnishes is huge and this topic is worthy of a separate article, within the framework of this story, we will only note that alcohol-based compositions are used for rooms. External work is carried out with varnishes based on nitrocellulose.

Impregnations and stains are another fairly large group of compounds that provide protection and tinting of wood on initial stage. You should not neglect them, because it is thanks to them that your staircase will not be of interest. different kind living creatures. Plus, some impregnations protect the tree from ignition.

Tip: polish is used to give your stairs a special unique velvet sheen. It makes no sense to talk about specific compositions, since for each type of paint or varnish, its own type of varnish is produced. Plus, the application instructions may be different.

Work performance technology

Painting wooden stairs is a relatively simple process and almost everyone can cope with it, if desired. But a number of important nuances should be taken into account here.

Firstly, each type of wood reacts to staining in its own way. Secondly, it is important to decide whether you want to keep the natural pattern and color visible, or give the product a different look. Plus, wood needs pre-treatment.

Stair preparation

If you are going to keep the material in its original form, as well as in the case when light tinting is planned, the array must first be sanded and dedusted. Moreover, this should be done twice with an interval of a couple of days. After the first treatment, the surface is leveled and the pile rises in a couple of days. The second processing is needed to bring the array to an ideal state.
Next, the array should be treated with stain or impregnation, the number of applications here is determined visually, depending on what tone you want to achieve.. Lacquer or translucent paint is applied only after the impregnation has completely dried.

If a cardinal color change is planned, then the instructions will be slightly different. It all starts about the same, the entire surface is well polished. But immediately after the first grinding and dust removal, all chipped recesses or other irregularities will need to be puttied. Moreover, the putty is selected to match the color of the future coating. This is especially important before painting a wooden staircase in White color. After all, on white you can see all the smallest defects and emerging spots of other colors.

Tip: If the staircase has already been painted and you don't know what compound was used, then first apply the urethane-alkyd compound you plan to paint with in an inconspicuous place and leave it for a couple of days. If the paint lay down without problems, then you can continue, but in the case when the surface is warped, you will have to wash off the old coating or clean it off with a spatula and a building hair dryer.

Before painting a wooden staircase in a house, keep in mind that the compositions are best placed on hardwoods.
Young or raw wood will work like a sponge, traditional 2-3 layers will not be enough for it, some types of varnishes and paints will have to be applied up to 5-7 times.
In the case when the structure is old or assembled from especially strong rocks, then before painting the wooden staircase on the street or in the house, it will definitely need to be well primed. Otherwise, the paint will not take well and simply drain from the array.

Working with conifers

The price of conifers is perhaps the most affordable. In addition, working with such a board is simple and pleasant, plus this array is quite easy to tint, giving it the look of expensive wood. As a result, a good half of the structures are made from coniferous varieties.

But there is also a significant downside. All conifers have a high resin content. If it is not removed, then especially tarred places will darken and stand out.

Any coloring or tinting composition will lay down unevenly, some helmets are not taken on the resin at all.

The resin can be removed completely or partially. For partial processing, a technical acetone solution is quite suitable, 25% of the composition is enough. It should be applied with a brush to the array, then rinse thoroughly with plenty of warm water and dry.

To completely remove the resin, you will need a special composition, which is quite realistic to cook with your own hands at home. per liter hot water 50 g of potash and about the same amount of baking soda are added.

After stirring, 30 - 40 g of laundry soap shavings, 200 g of technical acetone and 10 g of alcohol are poured. After deresining, the board is also washed with warm water and dried.

The internal staircase is a functional element and a noticeable accent in the interior of the house. Most often it is built from pine wood. The task of the designer is to make sure that the architectural component blends harmoniously into the environment and performs its tasks for as long as possible. To do this, a pine staircase is treated with special tools and painted in accordance with the overall design.

What are the advantages of making stairs from pine

During the construction and decoration of budget wooden houses pine wood is used. This wood is not as durable as oak, cedar or larch, but is quite durable, more common, cheap and available. Pine is better than spruce because it has a denser texture and much less knots that reduce the strength of lumber.

Pine products are distinguished by a pleasant light golden or almost white color and a unique pattern.

Pine has a pleasant light golden or almost white color.

Features of pine wood

Pine is somewhat more difficult to work with than cedar or oak. Soft wood needs fine sanding and careful selection of processing agents.

The density of the material depends on the growing conditions of the tree:

In warm periods, intensely growing fibers form a loose array. Cold years provide hard and dense wood.
Pine harvested in the mountains has a dense and uniform texture, while pine grown on sandy soils has a light, loose, fibrous texture.
The northern pine is better than the material obtained in the southern latitudes.

Therefore, most of the resulting lumber absorbs the processing agents unevenly. Unsightly spots appear under the transparent coating, which is extremely unpleasant for aesthetic reasons. Gum (resin) contributes to the appearance of color spots on the surface of pine products. If the raw material is harvested in winter, when the bulk of the resin is pumped by the tree into root system, the fibers remain drier, cleaner and stronger. They evenly absorb processing agents. On wood cut down during the spring-summer sap flow, stains and stains appear. Brought into a warm, dry room, it begins to push the resin out.

The steps of internal stairs are usually built from edged massive boards. But often they use a glued board, which has greater strength and wear resistance. The difference in the color of the lamellas from which such a board is assembled is especially noticeable. In addition, due to changes in humidity, the lamellas begin to warp over time, gaps form between them.

On a glued board, the difference in the color of the lamellas is especially noticeable

If you want to leave the interfloor wooden staircase in its original natural color, you will have to use special means processing: primer, mastic, wax, stain. A simpler option is to apply a decorative opaque coating to a pine staircase.

Why you need to paint your home

The statement that a tree is beautiful and does not need to be painted is fundamentally wrong. Wood does have an attractive appearance, but it is very vulnerable to insects, mold, hard shoe soles, dirt, and fire. Steps wear out especially quickly.

Stair rungs wear out the fastest

Therefore, it is necessary to paint a pine staircase. If you want to see the natural pattern of wood, paint at least with a colorless varnish, but be sure to paint!

The paint creates a hard protective coating that does not allow the wood fibers to be “damaged” prematurely. It is inedible for the bug and unsuitable for the settlement of rot and mold. Impregnation at times enhance protection and extend the life of the product.

How to paint

For the processing of pine stairs are used:

In order for the coating to turn out to be of high quality and durable, cover the wood only with high-quality materials purchased in specialized stores or from manufacturers.

Which coloring material to choose: a comparison table

Types of paints	Advantages	disadvantages
Oily	Moisture-resistant, saturated color, create a reliable protective film	They dry for a long time, do not “breathe”, have a sharp toxic smell, lose their shine in places of wear, are afraid of alkalis, and can peel off over time
	Moisture resistant, form the most durable and smooth surface, dry quickly, lie flat	They give only a matte surface, are intended only for interior work
Acrylic, acrylate	Moisture-repellent, breathable, water-soluble, quick-drying, low-odour, smooth application	Gives only a matte finish
Alkyd	Moisture resistant, dry quickly, form a smooth surface with a polishing effect

For stairs, use matte or semi-gloss paints. Glossy steps and railings from constant use lose their luster over time and look untidy. It will not be possible to quickly refresh the color, you will have to grind and repaint all surfaces.

Materials and tools

Primer
Thinner, paint cleaner
Paint, enamel, varnish
Putty on wood
sealant
masking tape
Protective film
Putty knife
Napkins, rags, rags
Scraper
Sanding tool, sandpaper
Mini rollers, brushes
Protective equipment: gloves, respirator ("petal" or others).

How to work with paint or enamel

All work with paints and solvents should be carried out in warm time year to ensure constant ventilation of the room.

Video: How to paint steps with paint

The procedure for working with varnish

Preparation and coating of stairs with wood stain + video

Perform all preliminary work: protection of adjacent surfaces, cleaning, puttying, sealing, grinding.
Use a paint brush to apply stain to one step. Leave on for 2-3 minutes to absorb. With a dry, lint-free cotton cloth, carefully wipe off excess material, moving it only in the longitudinal direction.
Treat all steps, balusters, railings in the same way.
If the color of the impregnation turned out to be uneven, repeat the treatment. In order for the stain to lay down more evenly, not to leave stains, to better emphasize the texture of the wood, moisten the surface with water before applying it. When working with the stain, wear rubber gloves, as hand contact with soiled rags is inevitable.

Before staining the entire staircase, experiment with the tone in a small, inconspicuous area.

Finishing varnish (with video instructions)

For stairs, it is desirable to use matte and semi-gloss varnishes. They do not show signs of wear, and the slip coefficient of the matte surface is lower, which makes the stairs safer.

Glossy surface wear looks especially unsightly

Combined coatingFor painting the internal staircase, you can use the combined method. For example, paint the vertical parts of steps and balusters with paint, and protect the more worn horizontal parts of steps and railings with parquet varnish.

The best varnish for steps is polyurethane parquet. It is expensive, but extremely durable.

When working with a spray gun, the use of a respirator is mandatory.

Painting interior stairs is not difficult and is quite affordable. home master. If you have purchased high-quality materials and followed the technology while working, your staircase will fulfill its tasks and look brilliant for a very long time.

For a private house or summer cottage, there is no more affordable and easy-to-process material than construction wood. Almost any side work is not complete without the use of lumber, but sometimes it is easier to build a gazebo, benches with a table or a wooden porch than to keep it from rain and sun. The entrance to the house is on a special account, so finding the material and processing method, the better to paint the wooden porch, always remains a small problem.

What does it mean to properly paint the porch

Usually, craftsmen who have taken up the construction of a wooden porch for a summer house or a country house finish assembling the porch in a “dry” form, the problem of how to process a wooden porch on the street and when to paint it is left to the discretion of the owners. This is understandable good paint or varnish on a wooden surface dries for a long time, therefore, before treating a wooden porch with impregnation or paintwork, you need to choose the right moment so that the residents do not walk and interfere with the process. It is best to paint the porch before leaving the cottage.

In order for the wooden structure of the porch to turn out to be beautiful and at the same time resistant to bad weather and sunlight, several rules must be observed:

Before covering the wooden porch with any varnish or paint, it is necessary to treat the wood with an antiseptic and bleach. You can, of course, just paint the porch with expensive paint containing protectants. Masters advise to perform the processing with successively different compositions, and then only paint with the composition you like;
The second condition is the correct selection of paint or varnish. Not all parts of a wooden porch are in the same conditions. Steps are best painted with varnish or paint, primarily resistant to wear and moisture. Railings and balusters are covered with a material that is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and pleasant to the touch.

Advice! Before painting the porch, it is necessary to carefully examine the quality of the wooden surface and, if possible, determine what types of wood the structure is assembled from.

The problem is that different breeds absorb paint and varnish in different ways. Often, carpenters and joiners sin and assemble a wooden porch from what comes to hand, such as pine, spruce, larch, and even poplar. If such a porch stands in the sun for at least a month, the initially light, freshly sawn wooden surface will become pockmarked, with different shades of gray, yellow and white. Such a porch will only have to be painted with white oil paint and forgotten, but I would like to make the natural color of the wood with a transparent smooth varnish coating.

Therefore, without fail, after treatment with an antiseptic, the wooden parts of the porch are treated with bleach, which oxidizes terpene compounds on the surface of the wood. To increase the penetration depth of the antiseptic, the wooden surface is wiped with a brush with bronze bristles, and after processing and thorough drying, it is polished. It turns out a white material that can be treated with a mahogany toner or simply painted with a good resistant chestnut or rosewood varnish.

Painting a wooden porch, photo, is performed sequentially, starting with the lower supporting elements, racks and hidden niches, shelves, struts and supports. Everything that is hidden from the rays of the sun must be painted first, until moisture from the soil has penetrated into the wooden surface of the lower porch tier. The second pass is to process the railings and balusters, and only after that it is possible to paint the boards of the upper platform of the porch, steps, stringers.

Choosing paint materials

The most common mistake when painting a porch is the wrong choice of coating for the wooden surface of the steps. If you simply paint the porch and steps with one of the most affordable and inexpensive varnishes, for example, alkyd or acrylic, then after a few months of use a dark color path will form on the platform and stairs. The reason for the defect is very simple:

Ordinary varnish is quickly wiped off by the soles of shoes, and the wooden surface is exposed;
Sanded wood is abraded to fibers, into which microscopic particles of soil and dust are packed.

For your information! To remove dark marks on a wooden surface, you will have to sand the steps and paint with a new layer of varnish or paint.

After the third resurfacing, a depression will appear on the surface of the steps and the platform of the wooden porch, which can only be painted and covered with a rubber mat, finally ruining appearance cute porch.

Therefore, the steps and the upper platform must be painted with a wear-resistant material, preferably deck paint or varnish. Buying it is quite difficult, but possible. If you do not like the price, then you can use a regular polyurethane, acrylic polyurethane or epoxy varnish for parquet.

Such paints are not afraid of water, and a properly built porch quickly gets rid of surface moisture, so there is practically no danger of swelling of wooden steps. It is best to paint with a transparent or tinted varnish under the old walnut. In this case, it is easier to choose a cheaper varnish of a similar toner. You can paint the entire porch with epoxy or polyurethane varnish, but there is not much point in such a decision, painting will cost quite a lot.

Lacquer and paintwork materials

For a wooden porch, four main types of varnishes and paints can be used:

Alkyd enamels;
Oil paints;
Polyurethane and acrylic varnishes.

Water-dispersion and water-based paints better not to use. You can, of course, paint the old wooden porch with bright facade paint, but it will not look very attractive, and the floorboards with steps will still have to be covered with a more resistant material.

Do not try to paint a wooden porch with nitro paint, this is the worst possible option. The coating dries quickly and is easy to apply, but the quality is very mediocre, especially since nitro paints quickly lose their protective properties.

The oldest and most proven means for a wooden surface is oil paint. good quality. The disadvantage of oil coatings is considered to be low resistance to abrasion and too big time drying. Even modified oil-urethane coatings do not have high durability and dry for a long time, in addition, the range of colors of such paints leaves much to be desired. Oil paint can be used to paint the most critical parts of a wooden porch, subfloor and supports.

Most suitable for wooden parts The porch is considered to be acrylic or acrylic-urethane lacquer. To ensure reliable protection of wood from moisture and solar ultraviolet, you will need to paint at least three times, with an interval of 6-7 hours. High-quality acrylic varnish is expensive, therefore, before painting a wooden porch, the surface is coated with an acrylic primer, in extreme cases, PVA is diluted in a 1: 4 ratio with water.

A thin film is formed on the sanded wooden surface, which ensures minimal penetration of the varnish into the thickness of the wood, and at the same time equalizes the adhesion of the acrylic coating and the wood. If you paint a tree with one varnish, the consumption of expensive material will at least double. The only drawback of acrylic coatings is the high hardness of the paint layer. If you paint the insufficiently well-sanded wooden surface of the railing or handrail of the fence, then the dried-up glass-hard splinters and risks will be a serious problem for the hands.

One of the most popular and available materials for processing the porch, alkyd enamel or varnish is considered. Most cottage owners prefer to paint the porch, fence and walls of the barn with one proven pentaphthalic PF-115. Exterior paint protects wood well from moisture and heat, but the durability of the coating leaves much to be desired. Alkyd varnishes can be used to paint a freshly built porch. If you paint with a second or third layer over old paint or oil, the normal quality of painting will not work.

Non-varnish coatings for a wooden porch

To protect the wood of structures, it is not necessary to use alkyd or expensive acrylic-polyurethane varnishes. The modern chemical industry produces a fairly large number of specialized coatings. For example, specialized wax-based gels. You can paint once and forget for ten years. The only drawback is the rather high complexity of coating application. While alkyd varnish can paint a porch in two hours of work, wax mastics and gels require mechanical polishing of the texture. The result is a very beautiful and durable semi-gloss finish. If the wooden porch is built from wood with a beautiful grain texture, it makes no sense to lose the natural beauty and try to paint the wood with oil paint, it is better to use a gel or impregnation.

The second most popular material for processing wooden buildings outdoors, the floors of terraces and verandas are considered oil impregnations. The simplest wooden porch structures can be painted with natural drying oil, it is better not to use petroleum polymer brands. Drying oil dries to a hard coating for at least a week, the material dries to the touch in two days.

If the porch is located unsuccessfully, with strong shading, then it is best to choose branded oil impregnation from Tikkurila. If you paint the tree according to all the rules described on the bank, protection from constant moisture is provided one hundred percent. In addition, oil impregnations surprisingly clearly show the natural beauty of wood fibers.

It is absolutely not worth trying to paint a wooden porch with used machine oil:

First, the risk of ignition of wooden structures increases dramatically;
Secondly, machine oil, unlike natural drying oils and branded impregnations, does not dry out, which means that all the garbage and dust from the street will constantly stick to the wooden surface;
Thirdly, even if you paint polished and etched wood, the surface color is far from being the prettiest, dirty brown.

In addition, in autumn and winter, with a large amount of water falling on the steps, the oiled surface becomes quite slippery and traumatic.

Conclusion

One of the criteria for selecting material to paint the porch or wooden terrace, the quality of varnish or paint should remain. For example, there is a large amount of yacht varnish on sale, which is advertised under the guise of deck varnish, as the best remedy to color wooden structures on the street. Real deck lacquer does not give a sheen and is almost completely transparent or tinted gray.