A steel bath is much lighter than a cast iron bath, for this reason it will be much easier to transport and install it. The weight of such equipment is small, therefore it cannot be installed in the center of the bathroom without relying on the walls. First you need to install steel bath on the legs. Reliable and stable legs for a steel bath - those that follow the contour of the bottom of the product itself, in addition, it is desirable that they be self-adhesive.

Some manufacturers include bolted steel bath supports in the installation kit. But this set of fasteners is not harmless for the surface of the products, because it can damage the enamel layer. In case of excessive load, the enamel may crack in the fastening area. In addition, the “regular” legs of bathtubs from some manufacturers, alas, do not differ in quality. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase universal legs for a steel bath on a self-adhesive basis.

Generally speaking, the installation of metal plumbing equipment is practically no different from the installation of cast iron (besides, of course, that they are easier to move). But there are still some differences.

Features of mounting a steel bath

Thanks to big weight and massiveness, cast-iron baths can be installed in the middle of the bathroom, but the installation of a steel product in the same way is impossible: the bath must necessarily adjoin three walls.

Based on this, you first need to install a bath, and then lay the wall tiles. For the free passage of the bath between the walls, the distance from one wall to another should be equal to the linear dimensions of the product, plus five to six millimeters.

We fasten the legs

How to fix the legs of a steel bath? So, we have already decided on what is best on a self-adhesive basis. Such supports have the shape of the letter "P" with some deflection at the base. They have screws for adjustment with plastic tips. The most reliable set of legs for a steel bath has small feet and longer adjusting bolts.

Since metal products are not very weighty and can tip over under the weight of water or the weight of a person, additional support can be made for them in the form of masonry blocks or bricks. Naturally, this support is installed with outside equipment.

After carrying out all the basic work on installing a plumbing fixture, the brick is tiled, so its original appearance does not play a special role. If you intend to make such a support, be sure to leave space below for free access to the siphon.

To install the legs on steel bath the following operations must be carried out:

Training

It is necessary to prepare a place for the installation of equipment. It is immediately necessary to organize the conclusions for the sewer drain and the future mixer. The next step is to treat the walls with moisture-proofing agents. If the corners between the walls are not straight, they need to be leveled. After that, you can proceed to the installation of a plumbing fixture.

Leg mounting

• First you need to turn the bath upside down. In order not to scratch the enamel layer, it is better to use cardboard or a layer of foam rubber as a substrate. When buying a product in a cardboard package, you can simply leave it on.
• The legs for a metal bath must first be tried on to the places of future installation. One pair of legs should be installed at a distance of approximately two centimeters from the outlet towards the center of the product.
• The second pair of legs is placed close to the second edge of the equipment.

Tip: In order for the legs to fit very well to the bottom, you can manually trim the depth of the deflection of the channel. In any case, it is advisable to do such a procedure not under the bath, but somewhere on the sidelines on the substrate.

• At the joints of the product, its surface must be degreased with undiluted alcohol or acetone. After that, you need to remove the protective layer from the lining, put the legs in the right places and press hard to the bottom of the equipment. It is also advisable to degrease the mounting points with alcohol, but in no case use a solvent.

Tip: In order for the protective layer to easily come off the lining, it can be heated with a building or ordinary household hair dryer.

• The threaded studs for adjustment must be carefully and slowly driven all the way into the plastic tips, while making sure that the thread is not damaged. If you do not have a rubber mallet, then it is better to tighten the complete nuts on the studs before driving. After that, the nuts must be screwed up to the tips, and the studs must be screwed into the points assigned to them on the support.
• In order to avoid incidents, you immediately need to evaluate the parameters of the door to the bathroom, because it can be narrow. In this case, it will not be possible to bring equipment with attached legs into the room without damaging the legs. Then it is desirable to attach the legs already in the bathroom itself.

Leveling the bathtub

• After installing the product in the right place, do not forget that the height of the steel bath with legs must be at the same level on all sides. To do this, you can use the level and in case of a height discrepancy on one side of the equipment and the other, simply adjust it using the adjustment screws on the legs themselves.
• Further, in the corners between the sides of the bathtub and the walls, four narrow wooden wedges must be hammered. The gaps between the edge of the steel equipment and the wall should be filled with special mounting foam from a gun. After it has completely solidified, it is necessary to pull out the wooden wedges.
• To prevent water from pouring under the bathtub, on top of the mounting foam, in the level with the sides of the product, you can put a layer of silicone.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all stages, the place under the plumbing equipment can be bricked, or you can simply install a decorative sliding screen. After that, the installation of a metal product can be considered completed.

The bath kit for sale includes legs or a more or less complex frame designed for its reliable installation on the base. The design of any manufacturer is designed so that stability is not lost under the most unfavorable combination of loads - in the form of a full volume of water and a person - sitting, standing on the bottom or climbing over the side.

With the advent of steel, and later - acrylic baths, many users of such plumbing equipment began to have doubts about the sufficient stability of a light structure. People reacted simply - instead of regular legs or a frame supporting structure, they began to erect a brick bed or several supports, on which they installed the bath body of any shape. There was a need to fix a light bath to the wall.

The stability of the bathtub in the vertical direction does not cause any doubts with any design of regular legs - all of them will withstand the weight of water and this is felt by users. Understandable concerns are caused only by the stability of the body in the horizontal direction - in fact, light steel and acrylic bathtubs can be unbalanced in this direction.

One of the typical products is a bracket adapted for fixing the bathtub to the wall. It can be seen how reliably the hooking of the curved edge of the acrylic bathtub edge to this bracket is ensured.

User concerns are not unfounded. Even the smallest degree of freedom of movement in any direction is dangerous by violating the integrity of the sewer connection. In some cases - a violation of the tightness of the sealing of the junction of the housing to the wall.

That is why, in order to ensure complete stability, it is necessary to ensure that the bathtub is fixed to the wall. In this case, the possibility of horizontal oscillations disappears. The bath becomes completely stable regardless of the efforts applied to it.

Fixing the bath body to the walls

In the bathroom, the bath can be located in four planning positions:

1. Island position - in the middle of the room.
2. Near one wall.
3. In a corner, in contact with two walls.
4. In a niche, close to the walls on three sides.

It is important to fasten to the wall when placing the bathtub with only one side to the wall, sometimes in an angular position. The case, pinched on three sides, is completely unshakable.

The only technical possibility to strengthen the bath to the wall is based on the fact that its sides of any design have a downward bend. For this bend and you need to keep the bath from shifting. The complexity of this operation lies in the fact that the natural place where you need to fix the board to the wall is not available - it is closed by the body.

Any way to fix the bathtub to a vertical plane is to pre-install on this plane such fasteners that will enter into reliable engagement with the bent down side - when this side is lowered into place.

As such fasteners, you can use branded factory-made brackets, with the possibility of adjustment and rubber gaskets. House master can install a home-made profile from a steel corner - such a mount can be much more reliable than a branded one. You can even use L-shaped dowel fasteners. Rubber gaskets can be made independently - the mount will be more reliable.

Wall mount technology

Any fastener must provide several important conditions for reliable and durable operation:

• strong retention in the wall;
• the main upwardly bent retaining element of the fastener should have a slight downward approach to the wall. This is necessary so that the side of the bath, put on such fasteners, falling down during installation, is pressed against the wall;
• should be provided high accuracy marking and installation of all components of such a system.

After determining the level of the lower edge of the bath rim, it is marked on the wall with a line. Fasteners - brackets, dowels or a corner must be fixed so that the side of the bath engages with them and the canvas is pressed against the wall. It is necessary to attach the side so that it cannot be moved by hand with the strongest impact.

Here is an approximate sequence of steps for installing a bath with fixing it to the wall:

1. You must first completely assemble the entire structure of the bathtub including the legs and the support frame. The adjusting screws of the legs must be placed in the middle position.
2. According to the assembled bathtub, the level of the rim on the wall is marked and the selected fasteners are installed. Before such a markup, you need to put the bath in place and find out the features of its horizontal adjustment.
3. The bath complex with the supporting part is carefully lowered from top to bottom so that the rim engages with the fasteners.
4. Adjusting screws finally level the body of the bath.

When the bath has taken its position, you can connect engineering networks, and after that - lay out brick supports that will ensure the complete inviolability of this structure.

The difficulty of arranging brick supports when installed bath it is compensated by the fact that the master will not be able to arrange these supports where it will interfere with the connection of the bath - all connections have already been made and are in plain sight. Brick supports are not brought up to the bath body by 10-20 m and this gap is filled with mounting foam, having previously collected water in the bath.

However, you can fix the bath in another sequence of actions. The main thing is to make sure that the invisible downward edge of the bathtub rim is securely hooked with fasteners.

The practice of installing bathtubs has shown that homemade devices fasteners and supports made of brick, concrete, custom steel structures most often outperform standard structures of the most famous manufacturers in reliability. Thoughtful rationalizations of this type allow us to consider the bath absolutely reliable, not worry about its stability and even operate it in any mode.

Bathing in a bath staggering under your feet is still a pleasure. And in order for it to stand and not stagger, additional measures are needed. How to fix the bath, what fasteners to use, how to fix the legs on tiled floor- it's all below.

The foot bath is easy to install. Especially if the legs are adjustable in height. They allow you to set the edge at the height you need, to compensate for uneven floors. But not all legs are the same. Some do not give a sense of stability and the bath sways under your feet - far from the most pleasant feeling. Also, it might not be safe. There are several ways to fix the bath so that it does not stagger.

If the problem is that the bottom of the bath also sags, then it is better to make a base. Most often it is made up of mortar bricks. But not all bath manufacturers consider this option correct. Some indicate that installation on bricks and mortar is contraindicated. In some cases, the way out is filling with foam and / or mounting foam.

wall mount

When installing a bath, so that it does not stagger, it is better to fix it to the wall. Depending on how it is located, it can be mounted on three or two sides. Before fixing the bath, it is leveled at the height at which it is planned to be used. Then the procedure is as follows:

The bath is put in place. This time it must be raised and lowered so that its edge falls between the fastener and the wall or rests against it. It depends on what you are going to fix the edge of the tub to the wall with.

What can be used to attach

Now let's talk about what exactly they attach the bath to the wall. There are different options. From the "folk" - a steel corner, a wooden block, a galvanized profile for drywall. When fixing the bath with their help, they serve as a support, but do not fix it. Even if nothing else is done, the bathtub with legs is already staggering less, but it is better to fix it.

One of the brackets

For fixing, a sealant is used. They are coated with a corner, profile or timber. When the bathtub is installed, the edge squeezes out the excess, which must be carefully picked up, cleaning both the wall and the bathtub. If the composition dries, it will be difficult to wash, so while the solution or sealant is “fresh”, carefully remove the excess.

You can first put the bath, then close the gap between the side and the wall with sealant or tile adhesive. This method also works and has a place to be.

There may be such fasteners

There are special fasteners in the form of metal plates or a complex design of brackets with and without rubber pads. When using this type of fastener, they are installed so that you can crawl up and tighten the screw that attracts the board to the wall.

How to raise a bathtub higher off the floor

Not always the height of regular legs is enough, and then you have to look for how to raise the bath higher above the floor. The first thing to do is to unscrew the adjusting bolts to the maximum allowable height. Sometimes the standard height adjustment is not enough. If a couple of centimeters are missing, you can find a stud or bolt of the same diameter, but longer and use it. This is more reliable than laying pieces of tiles under the legs.

pedestal

The second thing that comes to mind is to make a pedestal. Bricks are often used for a clawfoot bath. They are simply placed under the legs. For a steel bath, and even more so for a cast iron one, a sheet of metal can be laid between the legs and the brick. The point loads created by the legs of the bathtub can crush the brick. They say, paving slabs more reliable in this regard. You can use it instead of bricks. But without gaskets, it's still unlikely to get by. Yes, and this option will provide a rise of 4-5 cm. Not higher.

If you need to raise the bathtub higher, it is better to lay down a plinth of several rows of bricks and concrete / tile adhesive. The area of ​​the pedestal must not be less than the area of ​​the lower part of the bath. It doesn't have to be solid. You can fold two rows in the area where the legs are installed. One brick or one and a half - depends on the mass of the bath. Under steel enough in one row, under cast iron is better than one and a half. Wait a couple of days until the solution gains strength. Then lay five centimeters on top of fresh. And install the bath, check the horizontal position of the installation, press down, if necessary, and leave until the solution sets. So we will form the desired shape of the "bed".

A common way to raise the bath higher, but "wrong"

The option is clear and seems reliable, but many manufacturers do not recommend this type of installation. Probably due to the fact that under the influence of a large mass, the pedestal can fall apart. Of course, this is possible, but if the edges are well fixed to the wall, the outer wall is supported, the design will be reliable.

If you are friends with welding, you can build up regular legs. One of the options in the photo. A metal plate is welded to the legs, bolts / pins of large diameter are welded to it. This is just one of the options. The load on the floor will also be point, so it is better to weld another metal plate under the bolts. The distribution of the load will allow you to put it without problems on the tiled floor. Yes, and slip and move such a design will be less.

What to put under the legs of a cast-iron bath

The cast iron bath is the heaviest. Putting it on bricks or paving slabs, even with a metal gasket, is risky. If it doesn’t work out in any way (the sewer outlet requires raising the drain), you need reliable stands. As an option - glued pieces of plywood, textolite, paving slabs with a plate laid on top. Although both tiles and plywood can be pressed through. Textolite is more reliable, especially since it is available in different thicknesses. But cutting a thick one (and finding it) is a problem. But 10-12 mm thick is more realistic to find. We cut it into squares, dial the desired height, twist it with bolts / studs through the holes in the corners. On the front plate we form a recess for the installation of a support bolt or leg.

How to fix the bathtub on legs so that it does not slip

In general, what only under the legs cast iron bath put. Of the options tested: a stack of their hockey pucks, pieces of wood, OSB squares glued together in a stack. They are fixed to the floor with elastic tile adhesive or sealant. This will reduce the chance of "slip" and the stand coming apart even if it does break. But to absorb a point load, between the legs and stacks of material, it is better to lay a piece of dense (can be reinforced) rubber.

The best thing to do is to leave it on regular "legs". If you still need to lift, install longer threaded screws. Usually the diameter is taken with a solid margin. So adding 2-3 cm in length, we do not add problems. If you want insurance, you can lay a foam block under the bottom, fill the missing height with mounting foam. With cast iron, this will not give guarantees, but still an additional support “just in case”. You can make supports near the legs and / or in the middle.

How to fix the bath if the walls are of low bearing capacity

If fixing the bath to the walls is not an option (drywall or foam block, just an old crumbling wall), you can only create a reliable foundation on which to install it. One of the options is a pedestal, described above. Often it is supplemented with a frame supporting the front side. This usually accounts for the maximum load, so they assemble a frame that is attached to the floor with dowels, even if tiles are laid on the floor. When installed, one of the sides has a reliable support, which provides the necessary stability.

The retaining wall for the front side is made of timber, plasterboard profile. It can be welded from a profiled pipe, a corner with a small shelf.

The second option is a welded frame made of profiled pipe, which is welded to the size of the bath. She "sits" on the frame, and it, in turn, is rigidly fixed to the floor all on the same dowels. The gaps between the wall and the side can be closed with any accessible way, but this will not hold the bath, namely the frame.

For shock absorption and noise reduction, you can use rubber pads - hard rubber. Or boards as in the photo. They can also hold the container from the sides. Such fastening of the bath to the floor is reliable. She's definitely not going anywhere. By the same principle, you can make a frame for a free-standing bath, and sheathe it and ennoble it to your liking.

How to fix the legs on the floor

Installing a bathtub on legs depends on their design, and there are many of them. There is no need to describe any specific one, since usually everything is either intuitively understandable, or there is an installation manual. It is not always in writing, sometimes in the form of drawings, but usually this is enough. More information in graphics than in words. But, if the bathtub with legs is installed on tile or porcelain stoneware, it can slip. To avoid this, here's what you can do:

The latter option gives high reliability, but it will be difficult to dismantle the bath. On the other hand, the legs must be fixed firmly so that there is no play. These movements can break the concrete and the tub will wobble again.

There is another option - with stretch marks or turnbuckles (a device for tightening and picking up slack). They are bought at a hardware store. This option is possible if the legs are connected with a pin, if they have regular holes that you can catch on.

One of the options

Anchors with hooks are screwed into the floor. They can fix not only the legs to the floor, but also to the walls. Adjustment of a tension in a lanyard is provided. You just need to take the most powerful and look at the length.

Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the "face" of each person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his accuracy. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is a bath, which is directly used for taking hygiene procedures.

It is important not only to choose the right one, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bath correctly by conducting repair work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to install the tank yourself.

So, let's look at how modern plumbing, made of different material.

Current bath installation methods

The installation method of the bath depends on its location. So, how to fix the bath?

1. Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods corner location plumbing. Often also used when placing a bowl in a prepared niche.
2. Floor fixing. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are such ways of mounting the container:

• On adjustable or non-adjustable feet. Perfect option for fixing cast-iron or steel bathtubs, which are often provided with such supports.
• On the brickwork. A universal solution for metal baths, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
• On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used to install acrylic plumbing.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly fix the bath.

Features of mounting a steel bath

A steel bath is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of choices of this product. The choice of capacity parameters directly depends on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes bathtubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.

When choosing such plumbing, remember that it is characterized by a large weight. It greatly complicates the installation and makes special demands on the stability and strength of the fasteners.

The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. The presence of these supports greatly simplifies installation. It is necessary to properly fix the supports, which often come with plumbing. The bath is ready for installation.

But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bath in this case?

Features of mounting a steel bath on brickwork

The masonry provides good rigidity, compared with the use of standard legs.

• So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We correlate its parameters with the dimensions of the seat.
• Remember, in order to install the container correctly, quickly and efficiently, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl is at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to the installation of corner baths.
• We install the bowl on previously prepared spacer bars. They should be located close to the wrong side of the sides.
• We connect the siphon correctly.
• Using a spirit level (level), we check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, we level the container by changing the angle of inclination of the struts.

• Brickwork must initially be laid out under that part of the bath where the legs of the structure should have been located.
• The last row of masonry must be brought close to the wall of the bath. For this, pieces of brick are used.
• We leave the masonry to dry for several days. After we check the spacers and the stability of the structure.
• Along the perimeter of the brick bath, we lay out the screen under the very rim.

Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way to fix a bathroom.

Is a screen needed?

You can also overlay a brick screen with tiles to match the walls.

Remember that the screen will perform not only a decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to keep the masonry adjacent to its lower part around the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if suddenly the lower supports are not strong enough.

This method of installing a bathroom is relevant only for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for an acrylic bowl.

Fixing the bathroom to the wall and to the floor

Installation of a metal structure on a brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bath to the wall and to the floor?

The metal bath must be installed on a standard support structure.

It may happen that the studs of the support legs are slightly smaller than the size previously assumed. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container under the height of the sides 60 cm, and the bathroom with the legs turned out reaches a height of 57 cm.

This problem can be easily solved by cutting pieces of tiles of the required thickness. The bathtub can be securely fixed by their glued elements at the location of the legs.

After that, it is necessary to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install the metal profile according to the markings made earlier.

On the wall we seal the fasteners with silicone. To do this, in the upper part of the profile, stepping back 1-2 mm, we apply silicone sealant.

We move it to the wall so that its supports stand in a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tiles, you must install the bath no earlier than a day later. After all, silicone must completely polymerize.

With a metal bath sorted out. How to fix acrylic bath which is very popular today?

Installing an acrylic corner bath on supports

Acrylic baths are currently very popular. The main advantage is low weight. But how to fix an acrylic bath? To the wall or on regular supports?

The installation of a bath made of this material on supports occurs in the following sequence:

• The product is removed from the packaging.
• A blanket or carpet should be laid on the floor, which will keep the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
• We measure the sides of the bath, correlate them with the size of the seat. The corner bath must always be installed correctly. In this case, the two walls that form the seat must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
• We prepare all the components for the manufacture of the bathtub frame.
• Separately, we lay out all the components. This will make it easier to get to them. So, how to fix the legs of the bathroom?
• Carefully insert the plugs into the ends of the legs. We fasten them well.
• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (inside which there is a thread).

• We wind 2 locknuts on the studs.
• We assemble the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
• The profile has a hole in the insert. The stud of the adjusting leg is screwed into it.
• The first lock nut must be screwed close to the profile, the second - to the leg. So the design will be not only stable, but also reliable.
• We install profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
• When assembling the second profile, it is necessary to prepare a long and short hairpin.
• The smaller stud must be screwed in with locknuts in the same way as the legs.
• But the pancake pin needs to be screwed on from the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bowl itself.
• We install plastic legs on both sides on a screwed-in longer hairpin. Thus, one foot of the bowl should rest against the floor, and the other against the side of the acrylic container.
• After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. At the same time, please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their plugs must be placed at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
• We can assume that the acrylic bath is ready. The assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
• Using a level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by unlocking the nuts on the supports.

Reinforced acrylic bath

The above methods of how to fix the bath are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be fixed in another way. After all long-term operation bathtubs on supports shows that this method of installation has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crackles in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bath sways? How to fix it correctly?

This minor flaw is not critical, but it is desirable to eliminate it. To do this, it is necessary to prepare standard foam concrete blocks measuring 250 mm by 625 mm.

Having decided to install the bath on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be carried at a distance of 65 cm.

Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on the mounting foam. After the foam hardens completely, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.

This method of installing a bathtub requires a minimum of financial costs, because you only need to purchase a foam bottle and a few bricks.

Features of the manufacture of reinforced fasteners

So, installation work consists in performing sequential actions:

• We raise the bath to the maximum height using the adjusting feet.
• Along the perimeter of the future laying of bricks, we blow out strips of mounting foam.
• We apply foam to the brick, lay it on the floor.
• We lower the bowl onto the foam with the help of adjustable supports, which we fix with nuts.
• After 24 hours, you can use the plumbing.

For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.

Remember that when securing an object, you significantly complicate the repair and installation work generally. What else do you need to pay attention to before fixing the bath on legs?

stack of water

The correct arrangement of the water stack is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. The main condition of the stack must be met: all siphon tubes and drains must be located above the level sewer pipe.

A large height difference will allow the water to leave faster. Due to the fast flow, the liquid can automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to make repairs and preventive examinations less frequently.

Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be in optimal value.

Choosing a hose in a siphon

Experts recommend replacing flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth ones. plastic pipes. Of course, they are easier to work with, because you do not need to respect the dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But dirt accumulates in the folds of the corrugation, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. With frequent disassembly of the siphon, they may suffer rubber seals and even threaded connections. As a result, serious damage occurs, which subsequently requires the replacement of the entire device.

And if the bath is attached to the floor, then all repairs are extremely difficult to carry out. Experts recommend purchasing siphons, in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary tube bend. So the smell will not get into the room, blockages will be much less common. And when they occur, you do not need to disassemble the structure, it is enough to use a conventional plunger.

Bath quality

Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bathtub manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized by high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the products.

In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into a few millimeters. Therefore, often in this case, a wedge-shaped gap is formed between a flat wall and the side of the bowl. It is not recommended to hide it with a silicone sealant, because the error will be too visible. In this case, ceramic or plastic special skirting boards are used, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners peel off at the slightest fluctuation. It is not recommended to re-glue them.

Output

Arranging a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has little experience in the construction industry can handle. Now you know how to fix the bathtub to the wall without difficulty.

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Four ways to fix the bath yourself

Hello dear readers! In this article I will talk about how to fix the bath. Despite the fact that modern plumbing is quite easy to install, blog subscribers often ask questions about installing bathtubs. Therefore, I propose to consider how the ubiquitous plumbing fixtures made of metal and acrylic are attached using the example of already completed work.

Actual fastening methods

In accordance with the peculiarities of the location of the bath, the following types of installation are distinguished:

• fastening on the floor, when plumbing is installed separately at a certain distance from the walls;
• fastening to the floor and walls is the most common option when installing corner plumbing or when installing a bowl in a niche.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are:

• installation on brickwork - a universal solution that is often used for reliable and stable installation of metal baths;
• installation on non-adjustable or adjustable legs - relevant for steel and cast-iron bathtubs, which are equipped with such supports;
• mounting on metal structures and adjustable feet is the most common option for attaching acrylic plumbing.

Method one - mounting a steel bath on a brick

I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the photo report on the installation of the KaldeweiSaniformPlus steel bath with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m. The installed product has a standard configuration, but due to thick walls it is heavy. A considerable weight significantly complicated the installation and presented additional requirements for the strength and stability of the fasteners.

According to the instructions, the product is installed on special legs, which greatly simplifies the installation. But, in order to save money, it was decided to install on brickwork. As it turned out later, the brickwork provided better rigidity than the use of regular legs.

Do not know how to fix a steel bath so that it does not swing? Read on and find out how.

Installation technology

So, let's start arranging the bathroom:

• We unpack the bath and correlate its dimensions with the dimensions of the seat;

Attention! To successfully install the bath in a niche, the distance between the sides of the bowl and the wall on each side must be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to installation.

• We install the bowl on the spacer bars, which we put right next to the inside of the sides;

• We check the position of the bowl relative to the horizon with a spirit level and, if necessary, align it by changing the angle of installation of the spacers;

• We lay out the brickwork under those parts of the bath where the legs were originally supposed to be;

• We bring the last row of masonry close to the wall of the bowl, using pieces of brick for this;
• After the masonry has dried, we take out the spacers and check the stabilityusing our weight;

• From the brick around the perimeter of the bath, we lay out the screen under the very rim.

The screen in this case performs not only a decorative function, but, among other things, serves as an element that provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. Adjacency of masonry to the lower part of the rim along the perimeter allows avoiding the skew of the bowl even if the lower supports are not strong enough.

So, we learned how to strengthen a steel bath so that it does not stagger. But once again I draw your attention to the fact that this method is relevant for metal and it is not recommended to make such a masonry under an acrylic bowl.

Method two - fasten to the wall and to the floor

So, we looked at how to mount metal plumbing on brickwork, now I propose to learn how to fix the bathtub to the wall.

In the photo you can still see the same KaldeweiSaniformPlus bath with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m, but this time the installation is not on brickwork, but on a regular support structure.

In this particular case, we noticed late that the stud of the support legs is smaller than we originally thought. That is, it was planned to install under the height of the sides 59 cm, and the bathtub, together with the legs completely turned out, has a height of 56 cm.

The problem was solved by cutting pieces of tiles, which were subsequently glued at the location of the legs.

Fasteners to the wall are sealed with silicone

A strip of silicone sealant was applied over the profile, retreating from it 1-2 mm.

It is possible to install plumbing fixtures on pieces of tiles glued to silicone no earlier than a day after the silicone has completely polymerized.

So, now you know how to attach metal plumbing to the wall and floor. It remains to find out how to fix the acrylic plumbing that is popular today?

Method three - mounting an acrylic corner bath on standard supports

How to strengthen the bath so that it does not stagger if it is made of acrylic?

Let's take a closer look at the steps listed in the instructions:

• Do-it-yourself acrylic bowl free from packaging;

• We spread a blanket on the floor of the bathroom and turn the bowl over on it (this is a precautionary measure against scratching)
• We take the dimensions from the sides of the bowl and correlate with the dimensions of the seat;

In order for the corner bath to be quickly and efficiently installed, make sure that the two walls forming the seat converge at a right angle. The absence of a right angle indicates that there will be a gap between the side and one of the walls, which is very difficult to cover.

• We unpack the components from which the frame will be made;
• We lay out separately, all the components in order to make it easier to assemble them;

• We insert plugs into the ends of the legs and snap them;

• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (there is a thread inside the leg);
• We wind two lock nuts onto the stud;
• We assemble the profile from which the frame will be made;

• We screw the pin of the adjusting leg into the hole on the insert in the profile;
• We wind one lock nut close to the profile, and the second - to the leg so that the structure is strong and stable;

• We install the prepared profiles on the bowl and fasten them with self-tapping screws that come with the kit;
• To assemble another profile, we prepare one short and one longer hairpin;
• We screw the short stud and locknuts in the same way as the other legs;

• We screw a long hairpin from that side of the profile, which will be located on the side of the protrusion of the bathtub rim;

• On a screwed long hairpin, we install plastic legs on both sides, that is, one leg will rest against the acrylic board, and the other against the floor;

• We fix the legs installed on both sides with nuts;

After the support legs are installed on the profile, their plugs must be at the same level. You can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs with a ruler, measuring the distance from the profile surface to the surface of the plug.

• We turn over the assembled structure and install it on the seat;
• We check the level of the position of the bowl, applying it to the sides;
• If necessary, unscan the nuts on the supports, align the legs and tighten the locknuts again.

Method four - reinforced fastening of acrylic bathtubs

So, we just learned how to install an acrylic bathtub on supporting legs. But as long-term operation shows, this method has a significant drawback. In the area between the reinforced profiles, the bowl crunches under the weight of a person.

Of course, this shortcoming is not critical, but it is better to eliminate it. For these purposes, standard foam concrete blocks 625 mm long and 250 mm thick are selected.

In order to make it possible to install the bath on blocks with standard sizes, when assembling the mounting frame, we space the profiles to a distance of at least 65 cm.

Blocks are installed under the bowl on mounting foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will stop crunching and become motionless. The price of this method is minimal, since you only have to purchase a few bricks and a foam bottle.

Let us consider in more detail what is the instruction for strengthening fasteners:

• Raise the bowl to the maximum height using the adjusting supports;
• Under the bowl along the perimeter, along which the bricks will be laid, we blow out strips of mounting foam;
• We lay blocks on the foam, on the surface of which we first apply a strip of foam;
• With the help of adjustable supports, we lower the bowl onto the foam and counter the supports with nuts.
• Within a day, plumbing can be used for its intended purpose.

In order for the foam to better stick to the blocks and to the floor screed, the mounting surfaces must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

Output

In this article, I talked about how to fix the bath to the wall and floor. I hope that now you will not have problems with the arrangement of the bathroom. However, if you have any questions about the installation, I will be happy to give an exhaustive answer to them.