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Bathroom renovation step by step Bathroom renovation: how to quickly and beautifully create a unique style with your own hands (110 photos)

Let's take a look at how to make repairs in the bathroom yourself. What tools do we need for this. What difficulties lie in wait for us and how to overcome them. How not to miss important moments when renovating a bathroom. Why quality repair do it yourself will not always be cheaper than repairs by hired workers.

Like any other construction and repair company, you should start with a project and an estimate. We have to figure out what exactly we want to see in the renovated bathroom. Make a detailed list of what you need:

  • furniture
  • plumbing
  • Appliances

Then you should estimate the arrangement of all of the above, taking into account access to communications. For example, it is not always possible to lay a sewer in the place where you would like to install a washing machine or a shower cabin with the required slope of 2% (2 cm per 1 meter of length). Therefore, take into account such a moment in advance so as not to suffer in the future with constant sewer blockages.

After you have "put" everything in its place, think over in detail the design that you would like. And get down to business.

If you are on budget, you can start doing your own bathroom renovation. To do this, we need to understand what tool we need.

Essential tool for bathroom renovation

Usually, those who start repairing their own hands already have some tool in their arsenal. If you are going to purchase essential tool to renovate a bathroom from scratch, then we strongly recommend that you consider whether it would be cheaper to hire workers with their own tools? Because the cost of work is usually 50% of the cost of materials for finishing and communications, and the cost of a tool can even exceed this amount. The tool for quality repairs in the bathroom is not cheap. And if in the future you do not plan to engage in self-repairs it would be a waste of money. Consider leasing or reselling the instrument. So what do we need:

  • perforator with a wide chisel, drills, mixer nozzle
  • strobe tool
  • soldering iron for plastic pipes
  • tile cutter (if you plan to tile)
  • spatulas
  • diamond crowns
  • electrical work kit
  • standard plumbing tool kit

Work order

First, you need to turn off the power and water. Then remove all furniture and fixtures from the bathroom. But do not rush to throw it away. If you have a good but old cast iron bath, consider a variant of it .

After cleaning the room, tightly hang the doors with a film or cloth and proceed to clean the ceiling, walls and floor. Old whitewash it is necessary to wash off, remove the paint with a drill with a nozzle or a building hair dryer. The tile is beaten off with a perforator with a wide chisel. Do not forget construction goggles, a respirator and gloves. Dust and small chipped tiles are very dangerous.

Take a close look old plaster and floor screed. They must be strong, sufficiently even and without cracks. Otherwise, they will have to be replaced. When replacing the floor screed, consider the installation option. Minor irregularities and flaws can be repaired by puttying tile adhesive, having preliminarily well primed the surface.

Sewerage

Let's move on to communications. Let's do the sewer first. Here important point is the insulation of risers and observance of the slope with horizontal pipe routing. Be sure to insulate the sewer riser with foamed polypropylene, because condensate can thoroughly spoil your repair in the future. Do not forget that warm air flows through the sewer riser. And the riser is usually “sewn up” with various partitions, screens, etc. Which significantly interferes with the external ventilation of the riser. Therefore, on outside pipes form condensate, from which then comes moisture, dirt, rot, fungus. Another advantage of insulation will be an increase in sound insulation. Recall evasion sewer pipe in the horizontal plane should be 2% (2 cm per 1 meter of length). This slope makes it possible to flush debris through the pipe in a stream of water. With a larger slope, the water will leave faster than the debris, and with a smaller slope, the debris will stagnate.

Water pipes

Then we change water pipes. Modern repair involves hidden piping. Therefore, you have to tinker with strobes for pipes. Provide a cabinet or a niche with a door near the water riser for the possibility of checking water meters and locating the main stopcocks there. In this case, you can always easily turn off the water in the bathroom.

Important point: when you have laid the pipes under the faucet on the wall, connect any old faucet (or a carefully closed new one) to the outlet and plaster the strobe with pipes. Or use a special mounting plate to fix the fittings. This will secure the endings in the required plane. So that it doesn’t happen later that they will “look” in different directions.

Electrician

The next step is wiring. Choose wires with good insulation, check this point with a consultant in the store. All sockets and fixtures must also be made specifically for rooms with high humidity. In no case should you install "ordinary" sockets and switches. Fortunately, now the choice makes it easy to find suitable option. Provide protection for new wiring from short circuits and the ability to turn off the bathroom separately from the rest of the home.

Ceiling

Then we start working on the ceiling. With modern repairs in old Khrushchev-type apartments, it is not uncommon to lower the ceiling level. Do or suspended, built into it Spotlights etc. The main thing here is not to forget that the ceiling cannot be made of ordinary drywall and that the ventilation hole must not be closed. Ventilation is very important in the bathroom. We take into account that the air inflow into the bathroom should be at the opposite end from the exhaust vent. Usually, holes at the bottom serve as a "suction" front door. Consider removing moist air from the room on the opposite side. Do not forget that if you have a small bathroom, i.e. 3-6 sq. meters, you will need forced ventilation. Buy and install an exhaust fan. With a larger room, forced ventilation is installed in case of insufficient draft in the duct.

Floor

After the ceiling we move on to the floor. If you need a new screed - we make it. Warm it up if possible. We put flooring. The most common coating is still ceramic tile. When laying it, they are guided by the principle that it is necessary to start laying from the most noticeable place. Usually this is the input. So that the tile trimmings go under the bath or furniture. But tile isn't the only option for decorating a bathroom. Moisture-resistant varieties of wood, such as teak and larch, are now popular. It is certainly expensive, but very beautiful.

Walls

Then we move on to the walls. Before finishing the walls, be sure to prime them. If you are tiling the walls, then here, as in the case of the floor, laying starts from the most noticeable place. If you decide to paint the walls, then choose a moisture-resistant paint that does not allow steam to pass through. And cover the wall with penetrating waterproofing before painting. If you opted for plastic or other wall panels, then also take care of waterproofing. Keep in mind that the frame of the crate under the panels cannot be made of wood. In a closed space with panels, the wood will rot very quickly. In addition, it will be a source of fungus and other infections in your bathroom. Choose a galvanized metal profile. Or glue the panels on special sealants and adhesives, like "".

Installation of furniture and plumbing

The next step is to install furniture and connect plumbing. Handle new appliances with care, do not forget to read the instructions before installation. After installation, we do a test run and check for leaks, correct operation appliances, etc.

If everything is ok, congratulations! You have successfully completed your DIY bathroom renovation. And this is not an ordinary event. We hope that our instruction helped you organize your thoughts, and perhaps taught you something. Please share your experience in the comments to the article. We are very interested in how you managed to do the bathroom renovation yourself and what came of it.

So this moment has finally arrived. moral fatigue from the mere appearance of facilities for daily sanitary and hygienic procedures, not to mention the visit, exceeded all future costs. I need to start renovating the bathroom. But where to start and how to plan the work?

Bathroom renovation planning

The first thing to start with the repair of the bathroom and toilet is to find out what kind of work the owners of the apartment can do with their own hands, and which will require the involvement of specialists.

If possible, assess the condition of communications and screeds, although this can be difficult to do before dismantling. Make up a complete list of works and their sequence. When contacting professional craftsmen, you should ask to see samples of repaired objects and do not hesitate to ask questions.

Depending on the budget, determine whether it will be an inexpensive lightweight redecorating or a major refurbishment of a premium bathroom.

Sketch and design of the future bathroom

Taking into account the size of the room and personal preferences, they decide what exactly to install in the apartment. If the area is small, you may have to limit yourself to a shortened or sit-down bath or shower.

In a spacious bathroom, on the contrary, it is appropriate to think about installing a jacuzzi and even a mini-sauna. Options that do not pass not only because of the size, but also design features, cut off.

Advice! After measuring the room, you need to transfer its plan to paper or a computer and try to find the most convenient location for plumbing and a washing machine.

For design development, it is better to contact the specialists of this business, but if there is a shortage of funds, there is a chance to master it yourself. There are enough images and videos on the Internet with examples of repair and detailed description. Particular attention is paid to decorating those details that should not be conspicuous.

Even before the start of repairs, it is necessary to think over the lighting and electrics system. Don't limit yourself to just one lamp. Multiple light sources and additional mirror lighting will create a relaxed and peaceful atmosphere.

Of the wiring accessories, a socket for a hair dryer and an electric shaver, a washing machine, a switch for a mirror and a duct fan are useful.

Furniture, faucets, accessories and lamps should organically fit into the overall picture and create a sense of a single style. Wrong selection can negate all the most talented work of designers, and one single successful detail will make the space around play in a new way.

Choice of materials and plumbing

The main requirement for materials for bathroom renovation is moisture resistance and corrosion resistance, and for electricians - waterproof design. Another important condition is high-quality plumbing. Unreasonable saving threatens not only with the loss appearance but also equipment failure.

The main materials that can be used in the case of a bathroom renovation are:

  • pipes - there are metal-plastic, polypropylene, PVC, copper, stainless steel;
  • tiles, mosaics, PVC panels, decorative plaster, panels, painting are used for walls, Various types wallpaper (vinyl, liquid, glass wallpaper);
  • ceilings are trimmed with PVC panels, paint, drywall, rack suspended ceilings, stretch ceilings are made;
  • floors - tiles, self-leveling floors with a 3D pattern, linoleum, cork, laminate, parquet;
  • partitions - blocks of cellular concrete, gypsum boards, glass blocks;
  • the bath after repair can be new or restored with an acrylic liner, liquid acrylic;
  • toilet bowl - compact toilet bowl, with mounted or concealed cistern, wall-mounted, rimless, anti-splash system, various flush control systems;
  • washbasin - built into the bedside table, with a "tulip" leg;
  • lamps - energy-saving, halogen, light-emitting diode, LED-panels.

In the case of replacing or upgrading the wiring, the electrical wire is preferable to take the NYM brand. Depending on the chosen bathroom renovation idea, the set of finishing materials may vary. An interesting option is a combination of contrasting colors.

Finishing materials are bought with a margin of 10–15%, since the shade of different batches of goods does not completely match and subsequently it will be difficult to find a replacement. If you buy in one store, you can count on a discount. Checks are not thrown away in order to change the purchased product in case of marriage.

Bathroom release procedure

When the design is thought out, the materials are selected, the question arises, where to start repairing the bathroom with your own hands, with what actions? The answer is simple - they begin to vacate the premises.

After shutting off the water supply, the old bathtub is taken out of the room, plumbing fixtures and accessories are removed, and the plumbing cabinet is dismantled. Water and sewer pipes are dismantled, the entrance to the sewer riser is closed with a plug. Without this, a comprehensive repair will not be possible.

The heated towel rail is cut off and, taking into account its transfer to another place, a new tie-in is made with outlets to the hot water pipe riser. Or they completely replace the general house sections of the water supply that are in an emergency condition.

It will not work to cut off the heated towel rail and replace the risers on your own; a management company is involved to perform these works.

Important! Old engineering communications in the apartment must be replaced, otherwise after a while leaks will begin and repairs will go down the drain.

When redevelopment or replacement of flimsy structures, doors are removed and non-bearing ones are demolished wall partitions. Remove old wall and ceiling coverings. The wallpaper is pre-soaked, the paint is softened with a building hair dryer, then a spatula is used. The whitewash is washed off with water, the facing structures are dismantled.

It is also better to knock down tiles with a plaster layer. Adhesive mixtures are now being produced that allow tiling work on the previous cladding, but this reduces the volume of the bathroom.

A concrete screed in good condition can be left, except when it is planned to install a “warm floor” system or when it is necessary to get rid of a high threshold and bring the floors in the bathroom and corridor to the same level.

Construction of partitions and leveling of the bases

Instead of the demolished partitions, new ones are erected, provided for by the project, as well as false walls for space zoning, niches, shelves. At the same time, the ventilation shaft is restored if it is damaged.

Important! Doorways are formed in such a way that a box enters them. standard sizes. Otherwise, you will have to pay more for an individual order of doors or engage in alteration.

For cladding on a frame or stretch ceilings, preliminary alignment of the walls and ceiling is not required. An additional plus of such structures is that communications can be hidden in them without gating, which will facilitate the repair of the bathroom.

If leveling is still necessary, the surface is primed, beacons are set up and plaster is applied. In the places affected by the fungus, all layers are first cleaned to the foundation and treated with an antiseptic. Plane finished surface check the rule diagonally.

After plastering, the screed is poured over the beacons on the floor. Simultaneously with this operation, the "warm floor" system is mounted. If it is decided to leave the old screed, it is ground and leveled with a thin layer of self-leveling floors.

Laying new pipes and electrical wiring

They start chasing walls for pipes and electrical wiring, thoroughly equipped with respiratory, vision and hearing protection. In the lower part of the wall, where the pipes run in a single bundle, communications are usually removed into a box. It is not necessary to hide pipes in strobes if they are covered with a bathtub or shower tray from above.

Advice! It is very convenient to make a recess in the wall under the hoses of the washing machine in order to move it close.

Metal plumbing risers are painted and packaged in thermal insulation material to prevent corrosion to protect them from condensation and extend their service life. The sewer line is replaced with management company. So that the noise of water drained by neighbors does not interfere in the apartment, the sewer riser is covered with sound insulation.

Before wiring in the plumbing cabinet, a frame installation system is mounted for the hidden installation of the toilet bowl, which saves some space. After connecting the pipes of hot and cold water supply to the collector with the installation of meters and sensors, they check the strength and tightness of the connections - pressure testing. This is a mandatory procedure for major repairs.

Important! Installation of pipes for hot and cold water supply is carried out taking into account the location of the corresponding inlets on the mixer.

Electrical wiring is supplied to the locations of electrical installation products and equipment. For electrical safety, the wires are hidden in the corrugation and a ground loop is made. In order for the wiring to be done correctly, the work must be carried out by an experienced person.

After laying the communications, the strobes close up and erect the walls of the plumbing cabinet with a hidden inspection hatch. Depending on where it is more convenient to open, forward or sideways, choose one of two options for the design of the hatch - sliding or hinged. For the period before the installation of new plumbing, an old toilet is installed.

Installation of plumbing

Bathroom remodeling is not complete without plumbing replacements. The floors are covered with coating or penetrating waterproofing. If they decide not to change the bath, they make a restoration. At the level of the edge of the bath is applied silicone sealant. Then the bath is moved close to the wall and leveled horizontally for normal draining.

Advice! You can push the edges of the bath, adjacent to the walls, into the strobe made in advance.

After connection, the joint is filled with a waterproofing solution. It firmly fixes the bathtub and seals the seam at the junction with the tile, preventing it from cracking.

The bath is grounded, connected to the sewer, a mixer is installed and filled with water to check the functionality and tightness of the siphon and the drain-overflow system. The space under the bathroom is covered with a screen.

Screen installation options:

  • fixed. They are laid out from foam blocks or assembled on a drywall frame with an invisible hatch in the drain area. At the bottom, a recessed niche for the legs is left;
  • removable. Buy ready-made, put after laying the tiles. The removable hatch looks less aesthetically pleasing, but the space under the bathroom can be used to store all sorts of household items.

A toilet bowl and a washbasin with a mixer are installed later, after the finishing is completed.

Plumbing is connected to the sewer outlet and water supply and fixed to the floor or wall, not forgetting to align with the horizon.

The pipes under the washbasin are masked with a furniture cabinet, a “tulip” leg, and a countertop laid out in advance from foam blocks.

A seat with a lid is installed on the toilet. Classic white plumbing looks beautiful.

Room decoration

Finishing in case of cosmetic and overhaul can be very different. The instructions for tiling are as follows.

Laying tiles start from the top edge of the bath. Since the surface of the edge is not very even, it is usually impossible to maintain the same joint width along the entire border with the bathtub. The tile has to be cut very evenly or close the seam with a corner or a plinth.

Advice! A perfectly even seam is obtained when cutting with a mechanical tile cutter. Electric tile cutter with a diamond disc makes chips on the surface.

Cutouts are made in the places where communications are supplied. The sockets are placed so as not to get into the joint. At the outer corners, the tiles are sawn at an angle of 45 °. Fitting and laying the bottom row of wall tiles is carried out only after the flooring.

When laying the cut tiles, they try to take them out of sight and hide them in corners, under a bathtub or boxes. For a precise fit, manufacturers offer borders, friezes, inserts, but they are much more expensive. More affordable option- use of scraps of tiles of a different color.

After the laying is completed, the seams are filled with grout based on epoxy resin, excess fugue is removed immediately. Hardened fugue is more difficult to remove and can scratch the surface.

Installation of PVC panels is easier than working with tiles and takes much less time. PVC panels are mounted on rails made of wooden slats, metal or plastic profiles hidden fasteners - kleimers. The tree is pre-treated with antiseptics.

From above and below, the cut ends are hidden by starting strips. In the corners, external and internal corners are installed. Particular attention is paid to the vertical evenness, especially the first plank, and the alignment of the pattern. The finishing process is completed with the installation of a stretch or false ceiling.

Last stage of repair

At the final stage, bathroom attributes are installed: mirrors, shelves, cabinets, soap dishes, holders, racks. Attach hooks and hangers for towels, other small accessories. Connect the heated towel rail to the outlets hot water, mount the curtain for the bathroom.

Niches for lamps are cut in suspended ceilings, electrical installation products are connected and lighting to the wires. Install ventilation grilles and decorative trims. Finishing the renovation of the bathroom and toilet with the installation of doors.

To make a quality bathroom renovation, it is not necessary to have large finances. After all, if you want, you can save a lot of money.

For example, you can refuse the services of a designer and come up with a style in which the repair will be done.

You can also save money on the construction team and do everything yourself.

But in order for the process to be established and the result to be achieved, it is necessary to draw up a detailed action plan in advance.

So, you will need:

  • Come up with a design;
  • Stock up on the necessary materials and tools;
  • Make a budget;
  • Calculate the exact dimensions of the bathroom and plumbing dimensions;

When choosing a design, you need to pay attention to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Owners of a small area should take into account that a small space is less functional.

Light colors in the interior and large mirrors on the walls will visually enlarge the room.

You can refuse to install a bathtub and give preference to a shower cabin. Thus, there will be more space in the room.

For hygiene products, instead of bulky floor cabinets, you can hang compact hanging cabinets.

After you have decided on the choice of design, you need to draw up a plan of action. After all, in order for the process to go on continuously, all actions must be performed sequentially.

Negligent attitude to previous work can significantly affect the final result.

Step 1: Calculate the amount of building materials

This is a very important step in the renovation. An unpleasant moment may be that if the calculation is not correct, there may not be enough tiles, panels or other building materials.

Indeed, in the process of cutting and laying, part of the material may be damaged. To avoid such an incident, you should initially purchase building materials with a margin.

Step 2: Remove the old surface

To remove tiles from the walls and tiles from the floor, you need to stock up on a hammer and chisel. However, it will be easier to cope with the work with a puncher or drill. There are two dismantling options: sparing and emergency.

The first is done with a hammer and chisel. First you need to soak the grout, and then carefully separate each tile from the wall or floor.

The second option is much faster, but more "dusty" and "noisy". To do this, you just need to demolish the coating in layers with a perforator.

Step 3: Repair the floor

First of all, install the screed device. If the installation of an additional “warm floor” system is not provided, then the height of the screed will be 1-1.5 cm. The height will be 3-4 cm if the floors are further insulated.

There are several types of "warm floor" system: water, film and electric. Any of the systems keeps the microclimate in the bathroom well, while it has a low cost and is easy to install.

Step 4: Wall decoration

To date, the market presents bathroom materials for "any wallet". First of all, it all depends on the finances that you have. Most often, tiles are laid on the walls.

But you can choose more a budget option, such as plastic panels or special moisture-resistant plaster. At this stage of repair, everything depends on your imagination and finances.

Step 5: Ceiling

When repairing the ceiling, it is worth starting from the materials that were used on the walls. So, for example, with tiles and plastic, an elastic vinyl film looks very nice.

If you plan to make a ceiling with various transitions, then use a special moisture-resistant drywall. However, there is a more budget option: plastic panels.

After all are done Finishing work, you can install a bath, furniture and plumbing. Do-it-yourself repair is not an easy task, but very informative. In addition, it can save money and make the design exactly the way you want!

DIY bathroom renovation photo

Sooner or later, but the time comes when it is no longer possible to postpone repairs in the bathroom, as the tiles or wallpaper on the walls have lost their appearance or, even worse, have begun to lag behind the surface, and the metal pipes have rusted. The desire to transform the bathroom becomes stronger, the more often you notice the most popular modern materials, which are able to turn an unsightly shabby room into a neat room of the "euro" class.

- this is a fairly large-scale, but still quite feasible event, if you follow the instructions and perform all types of work in stages. Considering that repair materials are not cheap, and practice shows that the cost of performing work will cost at least half the price of materials, it is worth making own forces and save quite a lot of money.

General sequence of work

If you decide to independently carry out repairs in the bathroom, you must first find out in what sequence the construction work is carried out:

  • You should probably start with planning. You can draw up a sketch of the room and display in it what you would like to receive upon completion of the repair, including in the diagram all those planned for installation.

In this matter, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the old bath can be replaced with a new one, but there is an option and simply update it with an acrylic tab. In addition, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is very small, but you want to make it more spacious, then instead of a standard bathtub, you can install a shower cabin complete with a corner sit-down bathtub.

Such a trial estimate will help to determine approximately the scale of the work being started, with repair and finishing technologies, with the amount necessary materials, with approximate dates for the implementation of the entire planned volume. Of course, in the course of work, certain changes will certainly be made to the general plan. In many respects, this will depend on the condition of the floor, walls, ceiling, pipes, and in order to see all this “beauty”, it is necessary to dismantle the old one.

  • Thus, the next step is to move on to removing the old finish and dismantling the old, unnecessary plumbing.

On the given stage, in any case, the bath must be removed and taken out of this room so that it does not become an obstacle to repair and finishing work.

  • After dismantling, it is necessary to clean the room from construction debris. After cleaning, it is necessary to revise the walls and floor for its condition (for example, to clarify the need for a complete replacement of the coating or the possibility of limiting itself to repairing loose or exfoliated areas, cracks, crevices, etc.) everything that does not inspire confidence must be removed.
  • Then measurements of the premises are carried out, and on the basis of them a calculation is carried out and a list of necessary materials, consumables, tools, accessories is compiled.

Further, with a compiled list, which should include plumbing fixtures, pipes with all accessories, materials for construction and finishing work, you need to go to a specialized showroom. At the same time, we do not forget that finishing materials are usually purchased with a small reserve - about 15%.

  • Repairs (if necessary) of the surfaces of walls, floors, ceilings.
  • New water and sewer lines are being laid. For which, it may be necessary to cut the strobes with their subsequent sealing after the installation of the pipes.
  • If it is planned to bring in power points (installation of sockets), then similar manipulations are performed for them with cutting strobes, laying the cable in and subsequent termination.
  • Work in progress for the preparation of wall and floor surfaces for finishing work - waterproofing, plastering, puttying, pouring screed, etc. At the same stage, you can consider the placement of ventilation ducts, the installation of decorative boxes that will help hide the piping.
  • Further, work is carried out sequentially on decorative trim premises. The usual order is from top to bottom, that is, ceiling → walls → floor. In some cases, this order can be changed, for example, installation of a false ceiling → laying ceramic tiles on the floor → wall decoration with washable wallpaper or plastic clapboard.
  • The next important step is the installation of plumbing with appropriate sealing of all nodes and connections, connection household appliances(washing machine, shower cabin, etc.).
  • And, finally, in the end, all accessories typical for the bathroom are fastened and hung in place - mirrors, hangers, cabinets, shelves, etc.

Even just a list of work performed is quite impressive. And now will get acquainted with the listed points closer.

Repair planning and acquisition of the necessary

Drawing up a draft design


  • Slotting is done with a grinder with a circle on the stone, and a perforator, according to pre-marked places on the walls.
  • Pipes are mounted from their entrance to the bathroom and are routed to the connection points for faucets, bathtubs and sinks, to other “water outlets”, for example, for a toilet bowl drain or for supplying water to a washing machine.
  • When installing a sewer pipe (usually PP pipe Ø 50 mm is used in bath conditions) it must be taken into account that it should be sloped towards the central sewer riser. It should also be extended for a washing machine located away from a sink or bath. If it is possible to install a washing machine next to the washbasin, then a tee (45 °) is installed on the sewer pipe, into which both drains are connected.

  • The pipes laid in the strobes are first filled with mounting foam - it will become additional protection against heat loss (for the hot water pipe) and from the formation of condensate on the surface. Then, after the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off, and a large layer of plaster is applied on top.

Wiring

To lay the electrical cable under the ceramic tiles, you will also have to make strobes. For safety reasons, wires must be well insulated ( the best way- VVGng), and besides, they are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.


The wires are laid to those sections of the surface of the walls and ceiling where lighting fixtures will be installed and (if provided).

Gates, as in the case of water pipes, are foamed and then plastered.

If it is supposed to finish the walls with panels along the crate, then the wires are also laid in a corrugated pipe, but placing them between the guides, it is not necessary to make strobes in this case.

After installation posting is done checking the correctness of its connection, and then it must be disconnected from the switchboard until the completion of all construction and finishing work in the bathroom. Exception - you can leave the connection point of the ceiling lighting, but in compliance with all the required safety measures.

After the layer of plaster on top of the sealed strobes from pipes and wires has completely hardened, you can proceed to the processing of walls and waterproofing work.

Wall processing

Since the bathroom is always “by definition” humid, it is not surprising that the joints of the wall and ceiling surfaces can very often be covered with black dots of mold. In order for such stains not to grow, they must be removed with a special tool.

After the layer of the "medicinal" composition has dried, it is applied to the walls and ceiling. It will impregnate the walls and become not only an additional protection against various fungal formations, but also create ideal conditions for the adhesion of adhesives to the wall.

The primer is applied with a roller or a wide brush. To fully guarantee the quality of processing, it is best to carry out this process in two layers (the second is applied only after the first has completely dried).


If the wall will be prepared for tiles, and notches will be made on it with an ax or hammer, then after this process the surface must be primed one more time.

Floor waterproofing

Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom is always the most important of the activities. In this room, as in no other, there is a high probability of various emergencies. Filling yourself up is half the trouble. But if the “flood” spreads to the neighbors from below, then this can end not only in a major scandal and proceedings, but, for sure, in considerable financial losses.

Waterproofing measures will not be in vain if there are no large cracks or crevices in the floor screed, especially at the junction with the walls. All these flaws must be eliminated first.

To do this, they are cut, treated with a primer, and then filled with sealant - this is the easiest way to get rid of them. Epoxy putty shows itself well as a repair compound - it quickly hardens and creates reliable “patches”.

If, in addition to sealing the cracks, floor leveling is required, then two problems can be solved immediately with the help of a bulk composition that will fill all the cut cracks and bring the level to an ideal horizontal. You can find out in detail how to conduct it correctly by going to a special article on our portal.

After the floor is ready, you can proceed to its waterproofing. There are many interesting technologies, but the most affordable is the coating method. Work in this case is carried out as follows:

  • Along the edge of the floor and the bottom of the walls (about 150 — 200 mm) a special composition is applied thickly with a brush, so that there are no gaps.
  • Then, a waterproofing tape is glued (embedded) on the freshly applied layer in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe junction of the wall and floor, since it is the joints that are the most vulnerable to leaks.

  • After the corner strips of waterproofing have dried, the entire floor and walls are covered with the composition to a height of up to 150 mm. It is advisable to perform this procedure, for insurance, in two layers.

Such waterproofing creates an elastic film on the floor surface, like a solid "trough" - this can protect the floor from leaks.

"Warm floor" in the bathroom

If it is planned to make a "warm floor" in the bathroom, then you can choose one of two options suitable for this - it is electric or water from the heating system.

  • The best option for an electric underfloor heating in a bathroom is mesh mats with a heating cable laid on them in a zigzag pattern.

The convenience is that such heating can be placed under a thin screed or even directly under ceramic tiles (quite a bit, thickening the layer of tile adhesive by 5 ÷ 8 mm). It is recommended to lay insulation with a foil surface under the mats, especially if the apartment is located on the ground floor and the floor is cold.

Such mats are connected to a special thermostat, which allows you to accurately control the surface heating temperature. The convenience of such a floor lies in the fact that it can be turned on at any time, both in summer and in winter, unlike a floor powered by a heating system. Its disadvantage is the cost of electricity.


The mats are fixed to the floor with double-sided adhesive tape, and a solution is laid or poured on top of them (this can be an ordinary concrete composition or self-leveling), or tile adhesive.

  • Another option for a “warm floor” for a bathroom is a water circuit connected to a heating system. Such a floor will be warm only during the heating period, but you will not have to pay for heating at all.

Laying and filling the water circuit of the "warm floor"

When installing such a "warm floor", the pipe is bent with a snail or snake and fixed to reinforcing mesh or fit between the bosses of special mats. An important condition that must be observed is the integrity of the pipe, that is, it must not have joints throughout the entire length of the circuit. On the surface of the floor in the bathroom - this is easy to do, since the area is very small. In addition, you need to know that the pipe is not laid under the bath - it is absolutely pointless. It should be located only in those areas where it is possible to put the bare feet of the owners on the floor.


Connecting a "warm floor" to the heated towel rail circuit is not welcome

By the way, sometimes the ends of the “warm floor” circuit are connected to the pipes going to the heated towel rail, that is, to the hot water central. Is this permissible? From a technological point of view, yes. But from the point of view of unauthorized extraction of thermal energy for floor heating, very serious legal problems can arise.

In any case, before installing a water "warm floor" in an apartment with a centralized supply of hot water and heating, you need to make inquiries with the company involved in the operation of housing. Surely, you will need to fulfill a number of certain technical conditions.

More comprehensive information can be obtained by clicking on the link to the relevant publication of our portal.

Prices for electric underfloor heating

Electric floor heating

Wall alignment

Before leveling the walls, it is best to cover the finished screed on the floor (if it was done before) with plastic wrapso as not to smear it with plaster or adhesive. Walls can be leveled with conventional plaster according to the installed beacons, it is easier to mount on glue on gypsum base and fix moisture-resistant drywall to the wall.

If raw plaster is selected, guides are installed on the wall, which will become a guide when leveling using the rule.


How to do this work correctly, and which way to choose in a given situation, you can find out from the article published on the pages of our portal.

Drywall will align the wall well if it is not deformed, but has only slight irregularities. If there is a significant curvature of the plane, then it is likely that the material will simply repeat it, but will not align it.


To glue drywall to the wall, you first need to spot glue on the wall. For one square meter the finished area is applied in 5 ÷ 6 slides to the casting composition.

Then a sheet of drywall is applied to the wall and pressed well. Gypsum-based adhesive sets quickly, so drywall will quickly be fixed in position.


The installation of this material on the walls with glue is carried out in order to save space. But in that case. if the area of ​​​​the bathroom is large enough, you can fix it on a crate - wooden or made of galvanized metal profiles.


Alignment of wall surfaces is carried out in cases where tile laying will be carried out further. If the walls are planned to finish PVC panels, then the walls are not leveled with plaster, and a crate is installed on them immediately according to the level.

Installation battens

crate on the walls of the bathroom is installed from wooden slats or galvanized metal profiles. It is much easier to attach PVC panels to a wooden crate, so they are used more often for a frame. For the lathing, slats with a section size of 40 × 15 mm or 50 × 20 mm are used. They are fastened at a distance of 300 ÷ 500 mm from each other.


In the event that the ceiling is planned to be made suspended, for it optimal solution will be metal profiles with special suspensions. By the way, no one forbids using these hangers for installing wooden slats on which the facing panels will be fixed. The main thing is to securely and firmly fix these brackets to the ceiling surface.


A suspended ceiling is especially necessary if spot-type lighting fixtures are built into it, which will be "drowned" to the level of the decorative surface. Therefore, it is necessary to measure in advance the height of the luminaire planned for installation in order to lower the level of the crate to exactly this distance.


Wooden slats, which are used for battens, must be treated with an antiseptic water-repellent compound.

After installing the rail system on the ceiling, you can proceed with the installation of PVC panels, since this preparatory work finishes and finishing procedures begin.

Finishing work

Ceiling

Bathroom decoration decorative materials starts from the ceiling. If ceramic tiles are later laid on the walls, then you need to immediately arrange the transition from one material to another, delimiting it with a corner. The corner is attached around the entire perimeter of the ceiling in such a way that a kind of frame for the ceiling panels is created.


When the panels are installed in pre-planned places, it is necessary to cut holes for installation. They are made using a wood crown, which is installed on an electric drill ( screwdriver).


Further, electric cables are pulled out through the hole, to which special lighting fixtures are attached for suspended ceilings having clamps in the form of spring-loaded "ears".

Floor

Each master chooses the sequence of work on his own, but it is recommended that the first thing to do is lay the tiles on the floor, and only after that move on to the walls.


Laying tiles is carried out on a special cement-based tile adhesive. Work starts from the door and wall, which will be in sight. The process takes place in this order so that the incomplete, cut tiles, which will inevitably be, would be in the far corners, closed by the bathroom, cabinets, etc., and not spoil the whole picture.

Calibration crosses are installed between the tiles during laying, which will withstand the same thickness of the joints over the entire surface. They are pulled out only after the glue has dried.

The adhesive is applied to the floor surface with a size of one ÷ two tiles, distributed in one direction with a notched trowel. Many masters recommend that when laying on the floor, it applies another layer of glue to the tile itself. Laying in this case is carried out so that the direction of the grooves on the floor is perpendicular to the grooves on the tile. This method gives a full guarantee that there will be no air voids under the tile.


After laying the tiles, if necessary, they are tapped with a rubber mallet through a bar laid on two tiles at once, thereby aligning them in one plane. Controlling the laying of each tile with a level is a must.

Another way to achieve flat surface without internal voids - these are special clamps that are used instead of crosses.

Video: laying tiles with plastic clamps

They solve two problems at once - they maintain the same thickness of the seams and forcibly bring adjacent tiles to the same level. If they are used immediately, from laying the first tile to the last, the surface is guaranteed to be even. These devices are used not only for tiling the floor - it is also quite suitable for walls.


After the tiles have been laid on the floor and the adhesive has set, the tile joints are rubbed. If the seams have filled with glue during installation and fitting, they must be cleaned with a special scraper, and then sweep out the residue using an old toothbrush.


Further, the cleaned gaps are filled with grout (diluted or ready-to-use fugue), the excess of which must be immediately removed from the surface of the tile. It is undesirable to delay with this, since after the fugue has dried, it will be much more difficult to clean it off.

After completing the floor cladding, the gaps remaining between the extreme tiles and the wall must be cleaned to the full depth and filled with sealant.


Instead of floor tiles, some apartment owners prefer plank or laminate flooring. These are also, by and large, acceptable options, but you need to remember that wood, and especially laminate (MDF), do not really like moisture. If you lay a plank floor, then the material for it must be pre-treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds, and when using laminated panels, pay attention to the admissibility of the material for laying in rooms with high humidity. And yet - it is better not to experiment, but to dwell on a ceramic coating.

wall decoration

Ceramic tiles are also the most popular finishing material for walls in the bathroom, as they are quite durable and easy to clean. Recently, PVC panels have become no less popular for wall cladding in the bathroom. True, they will last a shorter period than tiles, but the price of polymer material is incomparable, and the installation of panels is much easier and faster.


PVC panels are a gain in price and in the speed of finishing

The panels are produced with various patterns, and some models, by the way, imitate ceramic tiles very reliably.

Tile


Laying tiles on the walls is a rather complicated process, and if it is performed by a beginner, then there is a risk of making many mistakes. Therefore, taking this job should not be in a hurry. To help beginner tilers, there will be the already mentioned clamps, which will not allow the surface of one tile to protrude above or below the next one.


Laying tiles starts from the floor. You need to understand that the first row sets the correctness and evenness for everyone else, so you need to accurately set the horizontal line of its installation with control from using the building level.

The tile adhesive is applied to the wall with a notched trowel under the laying of three to four tiles. Do not rush and cover too large an area with the composition, especially with insufficient practice, since the solution sets quickly enough.

After full wall cladding, the seams between the tiles are rubbed in the same way as when laying on the floor.

Before laying tiles in those areas where water pipes will pass through the walls or there will be water "sockets", holes of the required diameter are drilled in the right places on the tile using a drilled diamond crown installed in the cartridge or " ballerinas».

PVC panels

If PVC panels are chosen for finishing, then they are fixed to the crate mounted on the walls earlier. The installation itself is not difficult - the panels have a simple and understandable “groove-thorn” system, and all fasteners (self-tapping screws, studs or stapler brackets) are completely hidden when installing each next strip.


Plastic panels - very easy to install

Above and below (with the vertical arrangement of the panels) starter strips are installed, which will hide the unsightly trimmed ends and give the interior design completeness.

In addition, special fittings are provided for internal and external corners, as well as vertical and horizontal edges of the finishing material.


When installing finishing PVC panels, you need to remember that the evenness and, accordingly, the appearance of the wall covering depend on the first strip ideally set vertically or horizontally (depending on the laying direction). In this case, each subsequent element t is also necessarily checked for verticality.

Holes for pipes in plastic panels much easier to make - they are easily drilled with a screwdriver and a crown right size, or even simply cut out with a construction knife.

Prices the lineup floor tiles

Floor tile

Video: bathroom renovation using PVC panels

Completion of work - installation of plumbing

After the installation of finishing materials on the walls is completed, all plumbing fixtures and accessories are installed in their regular places - a bathtub or shower cabin, a sink, as well as faucets for them. The processes are discussed in great detail in a special section of our portal.

  • After installation, alignment and secure fixation of the bath, it is connected through a siphon to the sewer drain, and after mounting the mixer on eccentric sockets, it is checked for leakage.

  • After that, it is necessary to close the gap formed between the wall and the bathroom - this is done using silicone, tiled or plastic skirting boards.

  • Further, if desired, a screen is mounted under the bathroom. It can be attached to wooden frame, assembled from a bar, or lined with gypsum boards or blocks and lined with ceramic tiles. To some models of bathtubs, pr and their purchase, you can immediately purchase metal carcass to secure any chosen decorative finish.
  • Wash basin is installed. If the "tulip" model is selected, then the plumbing flexible pipes closed with a ceramic leg-support.
  • If you choose a regular sink, you can pick up a bedside table under it, which will hide all unsightly knots and become a storage place for detergents. If in countertop bedside tables holes for the installation of the sink bowl no, it will have to be measured and cut out.

Before installing the sink, turn it over and place it on the countertop of the cabinet to circle the cutout with a pencil. Next, the width of the strip running along the edge of the sink is determined, and this distance is also transferred to the countertop inside the outlined semicircle from the marked line. It is on it that the hole for installing the sink will be cut out.

If the sink is wider than the cabinet, then you will have to correct the front panel of the cabinet, and after installation, seal the gap between the cabinet and the sink with white silicone.

  • Then the sink faucet is connected to the water supply, and the drain to the sewer.
  • If it is in the plans - it is installed washing machine. It is also connected to a plumbing "socket", that is, to a fitting specially prepared for it.

Finishing can be completed by installing a new beautiful ventilation grill or, to enhance the effect, a duct exhaust fan (in this case, it has a power connection point beforehand)


Finishing touches - bedside tables, mirrors, hangers, shelves and other accessories

And the last step in the bathroom is hanging in place all the accessories necessary for this room, such as mirrors, shelves, cabinets, hangers, soap dishes, etc.

Making repairs in the bathroom is not so easy, despite the small size of the room. However, with the necessary efforts and diligence and having the right materials and the tools to deal with it is quite possible. Self-made repairs will become the pride of the owner, and in addition, it will save a considerable amount.

Video: bathroom renovation - a beginner's guide

If you decide to do your own bathroom renovation, it is important to know the sequence of bathroom renovation. One step must follow the other, because the violation of the order of operations leads to errors that appear during operation.

Training

Before proceeding with the repair in the bathroom, you need to determine the scope of work and roughly calculate the costs that await you. The easiest way is to make a list of questions. By answering them, you will have an idea of ​​the work that is needed. Here is a sample list of questions:


Only after you answer these questions, you can roughly estimate how much the repair will cost you. But this is without finishing materials.

Choice of finishes

The next stage of the bathroom renovation is the choice of finishing materials. The most common option is tiles on the walls and on the floor. This finishing method is popular as it is durable and easy to clean. But the cost of such finishing is high. There are cheaper options, but no less interesting. For example, on the floor you can or. Walls can be painted, pasted over with special wallpaper,.

No less options for decorating the ceiling. The standard way of finishing is a bleached or painted ceiling. But recently, hanging or tension systems. They allow you to hide communications, although they take a few centimeters in height. Ceilings in the bathroom can be:


Depending on the type of ceiling, the sequence of repairs in the bathroom changes. When choosing stretch ceiling, it is done last. After all other finishing work is completed, the doors are installed. The plasterboard ceiling, as well as bleached or painted plaster, is finished simultaneously with the walls or a little earlier - so that whitewash or paint does not fall on the walls. Suspension systems (except drywall) are assembled after finishing the walls.

Drawing up a plan and procedure

After you have decided on all these issues, you have chosen plumbing and Decoration Materials start drawing up a plan. After all the old decoration has been removed, the dimensions of the room are measured with an accuracy of up to a centimeter, and the dimensions are transferred to the plan. On this plan, all communications are drawn, distances to all points of their exit are drawn, plumbing and furniture are drawn on a scale. After all, the location of the outlets of the water supply, sewerage depends on the position of the plumbing and its size. The following is the work plan:


This is step by step plan bathroom renovation. There is only one caveat: when to install doors. Usually the door frame is placed after the walls are prepared for finishing. In this case, the wall decoration will fit close to the box. This is important if platbands are not provided from the inside. Door leaf you can hang it later - after the end of all the "dirty" work or immediately, but protect it with a thick plastic wrap. Otherwise, it is desirable to follow the sequence of repairs in the bathroom without changes.