Norms

How to properly insulate a house from a bar from the outside: important points. How to insulate a house from a bar from the inside: features of the process and choice of material House from a bar with insulation

Among the advantages of log houses, one can single out the naturalness of the wall material, environmental friendliness and good ventilation. Despite the advantages, over time, the thermal conductivity of such buildings decreases, more and more gaps form in the walls, and drafts begin to appear. Warm air quickly leaves the home. To solve this problem, you need additional insulation timber houses.

You need to insulate your home with non-combustible, environmentally friendly and durable material. To choose the right one, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each heater. You can do the job qualitatively only by familiarizing yourself with the main points regarding insulation.

The first step is always to prepare the surface for further work. First, the walls need to be evaluated, to check how well all previous activities were carried out. Small cracks and defects may form at the joints. All this is better to fix at the first stage. After construction, the house will shrink, because the lack of caulking, small cracks are sealed.

The initial stage includes the removal of all foreign elements that may interfere with the insulation of a wooden house from a bar. If work is done inside, all hinged structures are removed, the surface is freed. Outdoor activities include the removal of all nearby plantings that touch the house. In both cases, dust and dirt are removed.

After cleaning the walls, they are treated with a flame retardant solution and an antiseptic. Lubricate several times, use a roller for this. The brush can get into hard-to-reach places. After the walls have dried, their condition is assessed, the need for additional caulking. Cracks are sealed with jute fiber and a chisel.

Important! No heat insulator will make a house better if it has large cracks and chips. Work does not begin until they are completely eliminated.

Wall insulation in a timber house

After carrying out the above described activities, you can proceed to the insulation of the walls. The material is selected, the possibility of carrying out work outside and inside is evaluated. Under consideration best option. To choose the right one, you need to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of each method.

Advantages and disadvantages of internal and external wall insulation

The first advantage of internal insulation is its low cost. It does not require special devices to climb to great heights. The turnaround time is much shorter. You can make the walls much smoother. You can perform the necessary actions at any time of the year.

But there are disadvantages:

You have to sacrifice living space if bulk insulation material is used.
The dew point shifts, moisture condensation takes place in a different plane. If the work is done incorrectly, this can lead to freezing of the walls, or their constant moisture. The offset of the point will be inside the room. With external insulation - outside.
There is a risk of mold formation, blackening of the walls.
Slots, joints that are outside the house will still have to be sealed.

The main advantage of external insulation is a higher efficiency of work. The materials used will retain more heat. The dew point moves outward so that the walls will not get mouldy. The useful volume of the room is not reduced. Disadvantages: High cost compared to internal option works; seasonality and dependence on the weather.

The choice of material for external insulation of a house from a bar

For high-quality insulation, it is worth considering the features of each insulation. They differ in characteristics, service life, degree of environmental friendliness and features of the installation. The price of products varies greatly.

Mineral wool and its analogues

With this heater, you can carry out work inside and outside the house. The material is "breathable", which is necessary for wooden walls. The material is not destroyed by rodents, insects, mold does not grow on the surface.

In addition to the above, there are advantages:

relatively low thermal conductivity;
high degree of sound insulation;
ease;
ease of work;
low cost;
ecological purity.

The main disadvantage is the ability to accumulate moisture. If the cotton wool is wet, its performance drops significantly. It dries out for a long time, sometimes not completely. After that, the composition becomes heavy. If the fixation was not secure enough, it may move down under its own weight.

Insulation of the facade of a timber house should take place only according to the technology of a ventilated facade. A reliable vapor barrier is required.

It is worth figuring out how to insulate a house from a bar in order to prevent common mistakes during the work. You can use polystyrene for external and internal insulation. The advantages are low cost, low thermal conductivity. Mounting is simple and convenient. It has good hygroscopicity.

Additional Information! During the purchase, you should pay attention to the tightness of the grains in the block. The higher the strength, the better the insulation performs its functions.

The main disadvantage is high flammability. This is especially important to consider when work is carried out in a wooden house. Birds and small rodents love to eat foam.

This insulation is similar in properties to the previous one. It differs in execution technology, due to which performance characteristics increase significantly. The cost is also higher.

Advantages:

high performance;
does not accumulate moisture in the structure;
not destroyed by rodents, mold;
has high strength;
the installation process is simple and fast.

Among the shortcomings, the high cost is distinguished. It is possible to use not any, but only a certain adhesive composition for fixing to the walls. It is mandatory to install high-quality ventilation of the room, because EPPS does not let air through and natural ventilation wooden house will be broken.

Foamed polyethylene

Foiled polyethylene can be wrapped with a protective membrane on one or both sides. It is used for insulation outside and inside the house. It is usually used not as the main, but as an additional insulation. When answering the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house from a 200x200 mm timber, it is worth considering not the thickness of the walls, but how well they hold heat. Perhaps minimal insulation is needed to create an ideal microclimate in the room.

Benefits:

low cost;
ease of installation;
hygroscopicity;
high sound insulation;
high performance.

Among the shortcomings are flexibility. Reliable adhesion to the surface is required so as not to reduce the quality of the work performed. You can only glue with special compounds.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

In fact, the material is an ordinary polyurethane foam. It is applied from a special cylinder, and not with a gun. The positive is the possibility of insulation inside and outside the house. Moisture is not absorbed into the surface. Possesses high heat-insulating characteristics. The walls can not be pre-prepared, it is enough to apply the composition to the cleaned surface and it will remain hanging until it hardens. No fasteners or crate needed. The layer will be solid.

The disadvantage is the price of insulation. It is significantly higher than analogues. Without the use of special equipment, the work will not work. Further processing is required, since the composition is destroyed by the action of sunlight. He becomes fragile.

The composition is used for insulation from the outside of objects. He does not respond to negative factors environment, durable, does not require fixing on fasteners. The material is highly hydrophobic. You can perform a seamless connection. There is no need for further restoration. The material is breathable, so additional ventilation is not needed.

The service life declared by the manufacturers is 15-20 years, but after 5-7 years the composition loses about 30% of its thermal insulation characteristics.

Fire safety is low. To use it, you need special equipment, which is expensive.

Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber

Such plates are quite popular in Europe.

They have the following benefits:

provide high wind protection;
high permeability. It is desirable to use the material in places with a cool climate. In hot weather, it will interfere with the normal ventilation of the premises;
good thermal insulation properties. The indicator is above the level of basalt wool;
high strength. The material adheres well to the surface of the house, but it is not easy to break it;
reliability. The material does not lose its characteristics after some time of use. Properties are preserved throughout the entire period of operation. Exposure to sunlight does not affect the quality of the insulation;
high heat capacity.

The advantages of wind protection boards are obvious, but there are some disadvantages. Their cost is much higher than that of traditional heaters.. It is advisable to use them only in places with a cold climate, because they do not pass air well.

Folgizol

The material stands out among traditional insulation materials with its characteristics. It has a high degree of thermal insulation, sound insulation. In comparison, about 10 mm of foilizol provides the same heat retention as 45 mm of mineral wool or 150x150 mm of brick. Sound and vapor barrier performance is also on top.

The composition weighs very little, its installation is convenient. It is elastic, it will be easy to close any bends of the walls. It is resistant to any chemical influences, protected from the occurrence of mold, fungus, is not interesting for insects and rodents. The service life is 80 years, during which the performance will not decrease. No substances harmful to humans are used in production. No smell, no toxicity.

The disadvantage is the low vapor permeability. For wooden structure this is not very good - the walls will stop "breathing". Answering the question of how to insulate a log house will not work in one sentence. There are many options, there is something for everyone.

SIP panels

Panels are perfect as a base for walls. In comparison, it would take 2.5 m of brick to achieve the same degree of heat loss as 15 cm of panels.

Picture 8. Resistance to heat transfer of materials.

Other positive features:

high degree of sound insulation. The thickness of the material is small, but the penetration of noise from the street is almost completely eliminated;
light weight of the material;
high construction speed. When using SIP panels, it will take 3 weeks to build a cottage with an area of \u200b\u200babout 50 m 2.

The material is usually not used as a heater. You can use it to build a full-fledged dwelling. Among the shortcomings are flammability, the presence of additives that are not considered environmentally friendly. The panels are capable of being attacked by rodents.

Mezhventsovy heaters

The correct choice of interventional heaters depends on the needs in each individual case.

Can be defined important points that you should pay attention to:

If the house is being built in autumn, it is worth using jute. Synthetic materials do not apply. Shrinkage of structures in winter is almost absent, condensation forms. Therefore, the insulator must pass air well. Synthetics do not have this property.
If there are people with allergies in the family, it makes sense to purchase linen materials. They do not have an allergenic effect. Flax is not used in places with a cool climate. For example, he will not be able to endure the Siberian winter.
If it is not planned to produce exterior cladding in the house for a long time, it makes sense to use synthetic models of heaters. They do not deteriorate under the influence of active sunlight.

A good interventional insulation has several advantages:

the same thickness over the entire surface;
not exposed to rodents and insects;
after fixing with logs, it does not erode;
different thickness of products allows you to choose the optimal sample for each joint;
insulators retain positive characteristics regardless of the time of year.

The disadvantages of interventional heaters appear if the wrong composition is selected. For example, when a product without pores is selected, and the wall stops passing air, ventilation will be impaired. Any options are suitable for a wooden house, because the walls themselves allow air to pass through, the insulation will not be able to greatly limit this property.

Additional Information! It is advisable not to use interventional heaters as the main ones. If the home loses a lot of heat, they can be used to achieve initial insulation. It is desirable to choose other modern materials as the main ones.

Rules for external insulation of a wooden house

Any tree absorbs moisture. Completely eliminate the hygroscopicity of wood will not work even with impregnations. If ventilation is normally arranged in the dwelling, then the moisture will quickly evaporate without negative impact for construction, a comfortable microclimate will be preserved. If the gas exchange process is disturbed, the tree swells, fungus and mold develop.

In order not to encounter the listed problems, you need to follow the rules:

do not insulate damp walls;
use only vapor-permeable heaters;
thermal insulation materials must be closed on both sides with waterproofing, if it is absent in the layer of the insulation itself;
leave a gap between the final finish and the insulation.

If the walls are only planned to be painted after insulation, or only the seams are insulated, the paint or sealant is also chosen to be vapor-permeable. You can use acrylic-based compositions. Before warming, the surface should be well prepared, cleaned, repaired.

Additional Information! It is important to ensure that beetles do not remain in the wall - woodworms, which can greatly destroy the building. Under an additional layer, they will continue to destroy the structure, nothing will prevent them from multiplying. Over time, the wood will completely deteriorate and become unusable.

Hinged ventilated facade

They have a number of advantages. Among them, there is a lack of the possibility of dampness, a decrease in the number of building materials. Building insulation is very effective. Finishing work you can carry out any on top, there are no restrictions. The building does not overheat in summer due to proper ventilation.

The negative side is the need to inspect the supporting structures. The work must be carried out by specialists, it will be difficult to perform all the actions correctly on your own.

If you decide to do the work yourself, proceed in the following sequence:

Framing arrangement. The bars are installed such that insulation materials are normally placed between them. The maximum thickness is 10 cm. The distance between them should not be more than 60 cm, although it should be calculated based on the size of the insulation. Fasten with screws.
Heater installation. It is advisable to use elastic plates. The distance between the bars will be such that they fit snugly between the beams.
Installation of wind protection. It is fixed to the bars with a stapler. Attach to the insulation with double-sided tape.
Installation of the second crate. Enough bars with dimensions of 5x5 cm. They are fixed on the wooden bars of the first crate.
Installation of a block house, other materials for external cladding.
final surface treatment. Grinding, adjustment of all components, removal of wooden villi is carried out. After completion of this type of work, a layer of paint or varnish is applied.

Wooden houses are insulated with thermal wood, block house, planken, wood-like porcelain stoneware.

Insulation under siding

The main feature is the absence of gaps between the material. Lay them evenly without bending. The material should not protrude and go beyond the boundaries of the bars. Initially, you need to prepare the surface: remove all elements that may interfere with the process: drainpipes, lights, and more. Next, the surface is cleaned of contaminants.

The frame that will hold the siding elements must be impregnated with an antiseptic. It is advisable to use wooden blocks, and not metal elements. Metal collects condensate, which will turn into ice in winter. Standard bars are taken with a section of 50x50 mm.

Mineral wool, suitable as a heater, weighs quite a lot. It is fixed between the installed beams with dowels. A film is installed on top of the insulation material, which protects against steam from the inside and water from the outside. Fasten with a stapler.

First, the crate of the insulation is performed. The bars are arranged vertically in level. A heater is laid inside, a counter crate is placed on top. Its step is 40-50 cm. The bars are vertical. The last action will create a ventilated gap between the sheets and fix the mineral wool sheets.

Polyurethane foam spraying method

For the installation of this type of insulation, special tools are used. The composition comes from 2 containers containing polyol and polyisocyanate. They are mixed in the sprayer and fall on the walls.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

After the preparatory work, a wooden crate is mounted. The distance is 30 cm.
Foam fills the space between the bars. Application is made from the bottom up.
If you need to move to another place, the gun is turned off. If it is necessary to apply several layers, the next one is performed only after the previous one has solidified.
The insulation should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the crate. Any irregularities after application are carefully removed with a knife.
After the insulation has hardened, the walls are covered with a reinforcing mesh.
Finishing work in progress.

It is difficult to do the work on your own, even if you have special equipment. Usually involve specialists.

Internal insulation

Expanded clay or sand is used as the simplest materials for floor insulation in a wooden house. They are poured in a layer on top of the rough flooring, which is used as an additional base. The surface is not exposed to fungi, microorganisms. The main disadvantage is the loss of hygroscopicity over time.

Floor insulation

From modern materials for floor insulation, you can use mineral wool, ecowool, fiberglass, polystyrene foam or foam plastic and others. It is worth considering the pros and cons of each composition in order to make the right choice.

When insulating the floor in a house made of timber, it is important to take into account the purpose of the room, the average temperature and humidity. Do not forget about the load on the surface.

The work is divided into stages:

The draft floor is laid along the logs. The main advantage of the design is that no mechanical load affects the insulation material. You can use any composition for insulation. Make from unhewn boards at least 25x150 mm in cross section. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic.
Wooden logs should not reach the walls by about 3-4 cm. They can be placed on the foundation, wooden lining or posts (depending on what is available). A draft beam with a section of 50x50 mm is fixed to them and draft boards are nailed to it below. There should not be large gaps between them. Screws can be used for fastening.
The heater is installed. Glass-, eco-, mineral wool or other heaters fit tightly on wooden base between the lags. The remaining space is filled with mounting foam.
A layer of waterproofing is laid. Be sure to insulate wet rooms at home, or in the case of hygroscopic compositions (fiberglass, mineral wool, ecowool). If sprayed insulation is used, waterproofing can be omitted.

Waterproofing is found in the form of impregnation, paint or adhesive composition. Depending on the choice, it is fixed on the surface layer of the resulting cake.

A vapor barrier is being installed. Immediately on top of the previous layer overlap. The edges protrude 10-15 cm beyond the borders and stick to the logs. The joints are closed with metallic tape.
The final floor is laid and the final finishing is carried out. It must be fixed at a distance of several cm from the draft. To do this, use boards 10-14 cm wide and 3-4 cm thick. At the bottom, they should have channels for natural ventilation.

Wall insulation

It is not worth insulating the walls in the house from the inside with materials that do not allow air to pass through: polystyrene foam, penoizol, extruded polystyrene foam. They are able to create the effect of "greenhouse". You will have to spend money on installing air conditioners to remove moisture from the walls. It is optimal to use mineral wool.

After carrying out the preparatory work, impregnating the walls with an antiseptic solution, a wind and waterproofing layer is installed. It will not allow weathering and moisture penetration from the outside of the home. It is better to use a vapor diffusion membrane for this.

The material will not allow the penetration of liquids, will not stop the movement of steam and air. The waterproofing layer is fixed to the walls with a construction stapler. The overlap at the joints is at least 10 cm and is glued with adhesive tape.

Installed wooden frame. The width between the posts is selected based on the width of the insulation. Make the distance 2 cm less than the plates so that the material fits snugly.
The thickness of the frame is 2-3 cm more materials to ensure ventilation. Mineral wool or other substance is laid.
Plastic dowels are used for fixing.

When answering the question of how to insulate a log house for winter living, it is worth considering the climatic conditions. A lot of heaters are suitable, which are attached according to the specified scheme. At the end of the work, a vapor barrier layer is mounted. Usually the membranes are fixed with stapler staples.

The last step is the cleanup. The layer should not interfere with the passage of air currents through the surface. It is advisable not to use plastic options.

Roof insulation

Work in the attic is carried out in the following sequence:

A vapor barrier is installed. Cloths are overlapped by 15-20 cm over the entire surface. They should be glued with tape and fixed with brackets to the beams. When using polyurethane foam or other similar compounds, this step is not necessary.
The heater is installed. If it is ecowool, events are carried out by spraying. In other cases, all boards are dismantled so that the material covers the entire surface. attic space. When using mineral wool and similar substances, the installation must be tight.
Waterproofing is being installed. Be sure to overlap, adjacent strips are connected with waterproof tape.
Additional beams are being installed on which the finishing coating is fixed.

Mistakes when insulating a house from a bar

Insulation of a timber house from the inside is often carried out with errors, after which the material does not fulfill the task assigned to it.

The following typical deviations from the rules are common:

Lack of control over the condition of the walls. Over time, traces of various types of damage remain on the wood. Before the start of insulation, after which there will be no access to the surface of the walls, it is necessary to perform all of the above measures. Only then proceed to the next step.
Inattentive attitude to the caulking of the walls. Perhaps, thanks to a couple of defects in this part, the house began to blow through. After correcting the problems associated with this item, the home becomes much warmer.
Insulation of the log cabin from the inside. If it is possible to carry out work outside, they should be done that way.
Wrong choice of thermal insulation material. For wood, mineral wool, glass wool and polystyrene foam of any kind are ideal.
Improper storage of materials. Thermal insulation must be dry. Only then the compositions perform the function completely.
Wrong choice of materials. Rigid heaters are used for vertical surfaces, soft analogs are used for floors and ceilings.

In addition to the above errors, there are incorrect choice insulation thickness. For a log house in central Russia, a couple of layers of materials 50 mm thick are enough, which are stacked one on top of the other. The above material will help you understand how to properly insulate a house from a bar.

A lot has been written about the insulation of a log house outside under siding, but despite the abundance of information, questions remain.

Let's clarify - we will provide arguments that are based on facts, we will dot the i's.

The process of warming a wooden house is special. Having saved the properties of the beam, get the desired result. To make your home warm, you need:
1. Understand what and why to do.
2. Know by what parameters to choose a heater.
3. Properly produce insulation technology.

What are the stages of warming?

External insulation of the walls of a log house is the last stage of the arrangement. Getting 100% return depends on the work done so far. In order not to regret wasted funds, learn the rules that:

will save energy resources;
increase the efficiency of the heater;
provide a comfortable atmosphere in the room;
increase the service life of materials.

Rules are created based on the performance of the thermal imager. If a person put on a sheepskin coat, but walks with his head uncovered, he will release more heat to keep warm. So it is with the house. Therefore, in order not to heat the street, which means saving energy resources, insulate the roof and floor.

To caulk or not to wall? The answer is yes, no options. Whether the insulation is laid between the timber or not, it does not matter. After drying and shrinking at home, it will bring surprises. The wood will be twisted so that in some places you will put your hand in the crack. Examine the house - go around the perimeter with a lit candle.

Identify cold bridges, make sure that the intervention gaps absorb heat. Do not rely on external insulation, it is intended for something else. The right caulk will save you from problems with correcting the consequences of hack work.

Having carried out the insulation inside, eliminating the “cold bridges” (ceiling, walls, windows, doors, floor), proceed to the external arrangement. To do it right, choose quality materials, and don't go overboard with cover-layer technology. You don’t need too much - save finances, the heat capacity of wood and get the desired effect.

What is the best insulation for siding?

There is no need to mention all heaters. Let's deal with the materials that are asked most often. The choice is between polystyrene and mineral wool.

What is styrofoam?

This is expanded polystyrene, which does not absorb water. It cannot be combined with a bar - the dew point (condensate) will be between the insulation and the wood. Moisture has nowhere to go. This will cause mold to form. The fungus will shorten the life of the wood, it will become difficult to breathe in the house, and a musty smell of dampness will appear. Penoplex - hard foam, serves 50 years, suitable:

for insulation of a brick foundation, under plaster;
for floor insulation, which is poured with concrete;
for the ceiling, under filling with sand, sawdust, clay.

Mineral wool remains

Why choose this heater? It is difficult to find a replacement that matches the price and quality. The material has a number of advantages over other products:

by heat capacity;
hygroscopicity;
a wide range of temperatures at which it retains its properties;
fire resistance;
ease of installation;
a large assortment;
acceptable price.

For external insulation of a house made of timber, basalt wool is suitable. When buying, pay attention to the manufacturer. Give preference to European ones, such as Ursa, Paroc, Isover, Rockwool. If you choose the right density, and do not violate the installation technology, these materials will last 40-50 years.

Basaltin differs from mineral wool, which contains a binder formaldehyde 2.5 - 10% and components: slag, charge, lime, clay, etc. It consists of volcanic fiber diabase and gabbro. It surpasses analogues in quality and durability.

This is an environmentally friendly product. Moisture, getting inside, does not saturate the fibers, but folds into droplets that are weathered. Therefore, the properties of the material are preserved. Compare the characteristics of heaters from different manufacturers, make an informed choice. Get a quality product so you don't have to redo the work in 10 to 15 years.

Insulation technology: we exclude timber rot in the future

To exclude mold and rot of the timber during further operation after external insulation, understand what this is happening from. The enemy of wood is moisture, which does not disappear, contacting with it for a long time.

Compliance with the basics of insulation technology will save wood:

Before warming, treat the walls with antiseptic agents. Let the wood dry. Work in warm weather.

No insulating films, even if they are vapor-permeable (they fit on the right side), can not be sheathed with a tree: neither from the outside, nor from the inside.

The dew point should be in the insulation, mineral wool copes with this. The main thing is a snug fit to the beam: the fewer gaps, the better.

Too dense (hard) insulation boards will leave gaps that will dampen and provoke wood decay. Soft (more flexible) will lie more densely, but when moisture is absorbed, they will slide down. We need a “golden mean” - mineral wool P125 / PZH175.

The thickness of the insulation is selected taking into account the diameter of the beam, the method of heating and the climate. Do not sculpt too much - there is little sense, and the cost of materials will increase. Stick to the values:

for the southern regions - 50 mm;
for middle lane- 100 mm;
for the north - from 150 to 200 mm.

Two layers of 50 mm are better than one = 100 mm. Make two crates. The first (from the beam) is horizontal, the second is vertical. This will strengthen the frame, keep the first layer of insulation from deformation (bearing the maximum load), block the joints of the plates.

If you choose between wooden blocks and metal, give preference to wood (treat with an antiseptic). It does not collect condensate, but absorbs and erodes, i.e. breathes. Guides for siding will go any. This is a ventilated space.

Calculations on the calculator and orientation to the norms of SNiP give an error, since all components of R are not taken into account with an accuracy of 100%. These are indicative indicators that few people follow in reality. Trust the intuition and experience of your neighbors.

Cover the fixed insulation with vapor barrier (membrane). It lets moisture out and protects from external influences. Humidity in the atmosphere reaches 70 - 100%. Therefore, the film is necessary.

House insulation with mineral wool

To make the insulation work, create a ventilated facade. There should be a gap (5 cm) between the membrane and the siding, which in warm time well ventilated. This will guarantee the durability of the material and the dryness of the walls.

The choice of vapor barrier is an important step. The throughput of the film is not less than 1400 g/m2. This will provide warmth and “breathing” of the house. Fasten the free ends with tape or a stapler so that the seal is not broken.

When laying the insulation, do not delay the process. Mineral wool will be saturated with moisture from the atmosphere, which will lead to an increase in volume. The tightness of the joints will be broken. This will affect the quality of the skin.

Conclusion: Understanding what and why to do, you will cope with any kind of insulation. Eliminate unnecessary components of the "pie". It is simple (from the side of the beam): prepared wall + tight-fitting insulation + membrane + ventilation + siding sheathing.

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Savings during work or savings during further operation: we consider the benefit

In order not to indulge in calculations, I will give the facts. Whether it is beneficial for you or not, decide for yourself. Saving energy resources on the face.

Fact number 1. Arhangelsk region. Many houses were built from timber 150 x 150. The fashion for insulation did not take root there, so no one is in a hurry to insulate.

Insulation of a log house from the outside is necessary not only to ensure an optimal climate inside the rooms, but also to protect wooden walls from the negative effects of the external environment. However, to ensure high-quality thermal insulation, it is not enough just to choose a material that will have a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, but also have natural properties. Is it difficult to insulate a log house from the outside or choose an internal method?
Insulation of the facade of a timber house from the outside has a number of the following advantages:
when carrying out external work, uncomfortable conditions are not created for the residents of the house;
preserved inner space premises;
additional protection of load-bearing structures from negative external factors is provided;
the ability to easily change the cladding of the facade of the house;
increases the life of the building;
the dew point is outside the main structures, so the problems of dampness or condensation are not terrible;
the natural properties of wood are preserved due to optimal air exchange with the external environment.

The disadvantages of this insulation technology include:
work is permissible only under optimal climatic conditions: in the absence of precipitation and positive ambient temperatures;
the need for external cladding or finishing, which can cause significant financial costs;
it is possible to insulate the facade of the building only after the period of shrinkage of the beam has passed, namely after 1-2 years after its construction.

Types of materials for insulation
Insulation of the walls of a log house from the outside can be done using one of the following heat-insulating materials:
polystyrene;
mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam.

Styrofoam
External insulation of a house made of timber with foam plastic is the cheapest way of thermal insulation. The material has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.03-0.04 W/m·K. It has increased moisture resistance (maximum absorption up to 1% of the total volume), so mold and fungus do not form on it.
The service life of the foam is more than 20 years, so maintenance of the insulated layer is not required during this time. During installation, there are also no difficulties or problems, since the minimum number of tools is used, the installation is carried out quickly and efficiently.
Other benefits of polystyrene include:
optimal level of sound insulation;
minimal loads on load-bearing structures compared to other materials;
ease of processing sheets;
the possibility of applying a finishing layer directly on the insulation.

Mineral wool
Insulation of a timber house outside with mineral wool is the most common method of thermal insulation. The fibrous material has a natural composition, so it can contact wood without problems. Due to the softness of the mats, it can be tightly laid on the surface of any shape without air gaps.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity of mineral wool is 0.077-0.12 W / m K, depending on the type of fibers and the thickness of the plates or roll. Density varies from 10 to 100 kg/m 3 . The minimum service life is 20 years.

Insulation of a log house from the outside stone wool allows you to get the following benefits:
high level of sound insulation;
increased fire resistance;
not prone to damage by rodents or pests;
optimal vapor permeability and air exchange.

The use of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is the most profitable and expensive, as it easily tolerates conditions of high humidity, external mechanical influences, and contact with chemically active substances. Its service life is up to 100 years, that is, it has no analogues today.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity of XPS is on average 0.03 W/m·K. The level of moisture absorption is up to 0.4% of the total volume for 30 days. Unlike foam plastic, EPPS has a parapermeability of 0.05 mg / m·Pa·h and a uniform structure (granules with a size of 0.2 mm).
The density of the plates varies from 25 to 45 kg/m 3 , due to which the load on the walls can be accurately calculated. Compressive strength up to 0.16 MPa, and bending strength up to 0.25 MPa.

The main advantages of EPPS include:
resistance to sudden temperature changes;
environmental friendliness of the composition;
resistance to the appearance of fungus and mold;
chemical resistance.

Criteria for the choice of material and requirements for the technology of the insulation process
Proper insulation of a log house from the outside can be done with materials that meet the following requirements:
optimal ratio of material thickness and strength, minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
incombustibility;
so that the weight of the insulation can withstand the supporting structures;
ease of installation;
unpretentiousness in operation and undemanding maintenance.

The requirements for insulation technology are as follows:
wood must be protected from external negative factors: temperature, moisture;
heat-insulating sheathing must have sufficient strength, not shrink and withstand sudden temperature changes;
all layers of the material should not accumulate moisture, that is, be well ventilated, or have increased waterproofing properties;
the technological conditions of installation should allow the implementation of a specific method of insulation: evenness of the surface, the absence of obvious or hidden defects, the possibility of mounting guides, etc.

An important role is also played by the operating conditions of the insulation:
temperature range in a particular area;
building features: fire hazard, the possibility of contact with various chemically active substances, the likelihood of mechanical damage;
the minimum duration of operation of the insulation under specific conditions;
the need for maintenance.

Therefore, when choosing a material, it is important to take into account all the influencing factors. Only in this case it is possible to ensure the maximum period of their operation and the absence of problems with the timber. It is also worth paying attention to the additional properties of the insulation, which will save on laying sound or waterproofing.
Features of preparing the walls of the house for insulation
The technology of warming a log house from the outside requires the following conditions and preparatory work:
wooden house must undergo a period of shrinkage in the ground after erection;
wood must be impregnated with antiseptics and protective impregnations that reduce flammability and moisture absorption;
all cracks and defects must be sealed, if necessary, several logs must be replaced;
consideration must be given to how the materials will interact with the timber in order to ensure the longest possible service life.

Options for external insulation of a log house
Warming a log house from the outside with your own hands can be done using one of the following methods:
with the help of a hinged ventilated facade;
by spraying a polyurethane layer;
sheathed with foam.

Installation of a hinged ventilated facade
Installation of a ventilated facade provides for the installation of lathing with laying in the space between the insulation guides and subsequent sheathing facing panels. Mineral wool boards are used as heat-insulating material.
The main advantages of this technology are:
increasing the level of hydro and sound insulation of walls;
ease of installation;
minimum requirements for surface evenness;
wide choice of finishing materials;
displacement of the dew point from the supporting structure to the insulating layers;
ease of maintenance and repair of the hinged frame.

The implementation of the method is as follows:
Held preparatory work: wood is treated with impregnations, defects are removed, etc.
A wooden or metal crate is mounted along the width of the insulation.
A waterproofing layer is laid.
Insulation is mounted between the guides.
The insulation is sheathed with a windproof membrane.
The counter-lattice is laid along the slats of the main batten.
Sheathing is carried out with boards or decorative panels.

Insulation under siding
The insulation of a log house from the outside under the siding is similar to the thermal insulation technology using the hinged facade method. However, there are a number of features:
as a heater, you can use mineral wool or EPPS;
joints of thermal insulation and guides are sealed with mounting foam;
when using mineral wool, it is applied diffusion membrane as a waterproofing;
when laying XPS, siding can be installed directly on the main crate, since waterproofing is not required.

Spraying a polyurethane layer
Polyurethane spraying is an innovative method, the most effective and expensive among all existing ones. It is with its help that it is possible to form a sealed seamless layer that is highly resistant to negative external influences: moisture, sudden temperature changes, and pests.
The advantages of this technology are:
maximum protection of timber from decay;
improving the fire resistance of walls;
increased adhesion of the applied layer to various building materials;
no need to level the base;
fasteners are not needed;
increases sound insulation;
high layer uniformity.

However, there are a number of negative points:
the difficulty of applying a uniform layer;
the need to use special equipment;
high cost of polyurethane foam;
instability to direct ultraviolet rays.

The method is implemented like this:
The surface of the walls is cleaned from dirt and various stains.
Wood is treated with antiseptics and other protective compounds.
Installed wooden guides.
Spraying polyurethane foam. If necessary, two layers.
The cladding is installed.

Foam insulation
Thermal insulation of walls with foam plastic is very profitable and inexpensive, since the material is relatively cheap, easy to install and unpretentious in operation. In addition, laying the crate is not required, finishing can be done directly on the insulation, with sharp temperature fluctuations it does not lose its properties.
Styrofoam is a combustible material, therefore it is necessary to treat wood with impregnations that increase the ignition temperature or make it non-flammable (flame retardants).
The warming method is implemented as follows:
A vertical crate of wooden bars is mounted to the walls. Their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, and the fastening step is equal to the width of the plates.
Styrofoam sheets are butt-mounted inside the frame. The seams are glued with sealant or heat-insulating tape. The foam is fastened to dowels, called "umbrellas", or to an adhesive base.
A diffusion membrane is laid on top of the foam butt. All joints are glued with special adhesive tape. The membrane is fastened to the staples using a stapler.
The facing layer is installed.

At the preparatory stage of the foam plastic installation, it is important to carefully align the walls, since at the slightest bends (more than 1.5 mm per running meter) cracks may appear in the sheets. In addition, this will save on the consumption of a layer of plaster.
For plastering walls, it is not necessary to install a crate, since the load on the decorative layer is minimal. However, there is one important condition - it is necessary to lay a reinforcing layer in order to increase the engagement area of the outer layer and mechanical strength.
To make a house made of timber cozy, warm and inexpensive to maintain, to reduce heating costs, then external insulation methods are the most profitable. Their implementation is relatively simple, and there are a lot of advantages: lower heating costs, protection of load-bearing structures from temperature extremes, pests, mechanical, physical and chemical influences.
When choosing materials for insulation, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements for thermal insulation and the total budget for all stages of work.

When purchasing housing from a massive bar, for example, 150x150 mm or more, users believe that they have chosen a fairly warm material. However, in practice, it turns out that even such structures made of natural material need additional processing. We have to decide how to properly insulate a house from a bar from the outside, and what materials to use.

If additional insulation is not used correctly, then the outer walls should have a thickness of 350-400 mm to ensure high-quality protection in this case. Otherwise, the degree of insulation will be insufficient for a comfortable stay, even if all seams are reliably caulked. With a thin wall, with a significant decrease in temperature, even the beams themselves will begin to freeze.

Objective factors

Today, the insulation of a log house from the outside is not a difficult enough problem, since the market is full of all kinds of materials for such work. Most of the operations can be done by hand, guided by simple step-by-step instructions. To do this, you can use the presented text or video materials.

Before you insulate a log house, you need to know the positive and negative aspects of the process. The main advantages include:

increases the efficiency of use heating systems;

the outer surface of a log house receives additional protection from external adverse phenomena;

the owner of the house gets the opportunity to give the facade individuality;

the room does not take up space.

The disadvantages of processing outside the timber building include the inability to control aging building material. In this case, it is necessary to follow the installation technologies in order to ensure the durability of the building and preserve the wood even without visual control.

When installing thermal insulation, you need a clear understanding of the technology in order to exclude premature aging of wood.

When choosing finishing material it is worth paying attention to its physico-chemical characteristics, which must satisfy the operational parameters:

external insulation of a house made of timber should be as fireproof as possible;

applied environmentally clean materials;

minimum values of thermal conductivity;

the material must block the release of heat;

the structure of the insulation should not accumulate moisture;

steam capacity is provided;

the presence of soundproofing characteristics.

VIDEO: How to cheaply and quickly insulate a house outside

Features of warming a log house from the outside

It must be taken into account that the better it is to insulate a house from a bar from the outside, the less money you will need to spend on heating. You should also follow certain rules that contribute to obtaining the desired result. For example, insulating materials cannot be left outside for a long time, since possible precipitation helps to moisten it. This negatively affects the heat-shielding properties.

In some cases, the crate is placed horizontally with a step that is 12-15 mm less than the width of the material. In this case, it is allowed not to use additional fasteners, since the mineral wool block or other material will be held on its own.

The operation is carried out in one of the following ways:

a hinged ventilated facade is formed;

using a special installation, spraying with polyurethane is carried out;

sheets of modern polystyrene are involved.

How to insulate a house from a bar from the outside, each owner chooses for himself. The cost of work and materials, as well as their durability and efficiency, are taken into account.

The most acceptable option is to use the hinged ventilated facade method.

Its advantages are the characteristics:

high installation speed;

a large selection of modern high-quality materials for insulating the walls of a timber house;

the service life is guaranteed by the manufacturer up to several decades;

reduction of heating costs;

if in this way the log house is insulated from the outside, then the dew point will move beyond the dimensions of the tree.

Use of materials

The most popular materials for external wall protection are:

cotton wool from basalt;

fiberglass material;

mineral wool;

expanded polystyrene.

Due to the complex of positive properties, mineral wool is often used. Due to its minimal weight, it does not create a significant load on the walls and foundation. The financial costs are also not high. At the same time, it perfectly retains heat and is not a combustible material. Due to the lack of compaction, cold bridges are not created, and its physical parameters are resistant to thermal deformation of a wooden structure.

Often, insulation is carried out according to the type of block house. The outer part is covered with plastic siding decor. Installation includes several steps.

Step by step instructions for home insulation

At the first stage, a vapor barrier is provided for the system. It will take a large area of polyethylene, aluminium foil, roofing felt rolls, vapor barrier film. A vertical rack frame of bars 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls, forming a grid with a step of 1 m. An oilcloth is stuffed on top of it for vapor barrier. Windows 15 mm in diameter are formed between the base rails to prevent the accumulation of moisture.

It is recommended to hide the places where the film is fixed with nails or staples with adhesive tape to protect the fasteners from moisture.

The second stage of insulation of a timber house consists of the formation of a frame for insulation. Here you will need boards with a section of 100x50 mm or 100x40 mm. Stuffing is carried out vertically on the edge. Since it is necessary to insulate a house from a bar without gaps, we select the distance between the ribs so that it is 1.5-2.0 cm less than the width of the insulation.

The fastening of the beam is carried out with self-tapping screws. We ensure verticality and correctness of installation with the help of a plumb line and a hydraulic level.

At the third step, we carry out a dense laying of the insulating material, eliminating cracks and gaps. If cotton wool 50 mm thick is used, then we put it in two layers. It is recommended to stock up on elastic semi-rigid boards having a density of 80-120 kg/m3. This insulation for housing is well kept in a wooden lattice.

The fourth step requires the creation of waterproofing. For this layer, a waterproofing film is used. She is obliged to release steam, but retain water. At the docking points, an overlap of about 10 cm is created, which must be sealed with self-adhesive (film).

A frame of slats with a section of 50x30 or 50x25 mm is stuffed over the waterproofing. Thus, an air gap is formed, which contributes to drying from condensate. The layer must be covered with a metal fine mesh. It is a reliable protection against rodents.

The outer layer performs a decorative function. It can be made from both plastic and lining. Such siding is selected based on the preferences of the owner of the house.

VIDEO: Rockwool - wall insulation from the outside under siding

Features of working with foam

For novice masters, this option of thermal insulation is preferable, since it does not require special skills, and the speed of work is high.

Among the advantages it is worth noting:

low price for the material;

siding can be attached directly to the material without crates;

retains heat well;

does not absorb water, therefore it does not freeze.

Among the disadvantages:

combustibility;

does not allow air to pass through, condensate accumulates under the layers, the walls from the inside can rot and become moldy.

The problem with vapor permeability can be solved by ventilation gaps and the installation of a high-quality membrane. As for flammability, it is worth choosing extruded polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants. This material will also burn, but much more slowly, and small foci will fade.

Modern Russian insulation

Domestic development for sheltering the outer walls of a timber house is new material"Penoplex". It is offered to customers in the form of plates and is an extruded polystyrene foam.

Penoplex is ideal for the changeable Russian climate

A distinctive quality of the insulation is sufficient mechanical strength and excellent water-repellent properties. It does not develop molds or bacteria. The material can be laid both vertically and horizontally, and plastering is allowed on top of the outside.

VIDEO: The most common and gross mistake in wall insulation

How warm can a log house be? Wood is quite rightly considered a warm material, giving good protection by cold. In fact, wood is about five times warmer than brick, foam concrete - 2-3 times. But what happens in practice and how to make the house really warm?

Heat engineering issues

In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary that its walls and other enclosing structures have a certain resistance to heat transfer. In accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003 heat transfer resistance external walls residential premises is determined depending on the locality.

For example, in the Moscow region, according to new standards, this figure should not be less than 3.13 K m 2 /W. A 150 mm thick wall made of pine timber has a thermal resistance of about 1.25. With a thickness of 200 mm - approximately 1.6 K m 2 / W. In any case, before modern requirements the heat-shielding qualities of a wall made of timber do not reach, although they are quite within the standards in force for buildings built before 2000.

From this we can conclude that in order for a house made of logs to meet modern ideas about minimum energy efficiency, it is necessary to insulate it, and for this there are various materials.

How to insulate a house from a bar?

Before starting work on the insulation of walls from a bar, you need to understand what happens in the thickness of the wall, how it works for heat saving.

In addition to the temperature difference between the internal and external surfaces walls, you must not forget about the difference in humidity. Inside the air humidity is always higher than outside. Steam penetrates into the pores of the wood and moves in the direction of lower partial pressure - to the outer surface.

Most effective method insulation - external thermal insulation. With this method, the wall always remains warm and is not affected by frost destruction. But it is very important that the insulation is sufficiently permeable to steam. High humidity walls can quickly render a wooden house unusable, and create a very unpleasant, pathogenic microclimate inside.

Among modern heat-insulating materials, mineral wool is the best vapor-permeable material. For comparison, we can bring the vapor permeability of wood and various heaters.

Pine across the fibers - 0.06 mg / (m h Pa).

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) - 0.05 mg / (m h Pa).

EPPS - 0.013 mg / (m h Pa).

Mineral wool - 0.5 mg / (m h Pa).

From the data presented, it is clear that best material mineral wool is used to insulate a house from a bar on the outside. The advantage of vapor permeability is so great that it outweighs not the lowest cost of mineral wool.

The best conditions for moisture removal are created by a ventilated facade, in which an air gap of 20-50 mm thick remains between the insulation and the outer cladding. It should have air inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top. In this case, a constant air flow is created in the gap, which prevents moisture from accumulating.

To prevent transverse diffusion of air into the insulation, it is closed with a windproof membrane, which does not prevent steam from escaping, but increases the efficiency of thermal insulation. For outer skin you can use vinyl siding, blockhouse or other suitable material.

Warming step by step

How to insulate a house from a bar: it is possible to cover a new bar house with thermal insulation only after it has completely shrunk. In any case, the insulation of walls from a bar must begin with surface preparation. It is necessary to remove the moss, clean the areas damaged by rot or mold, treat the walls with an antiseptic and caulk the cracks.

The next step is the installation of the crate. It can be made from wooden bars of a suitable section, or from metal wall profiles for drywall. Profiles are installed vertically, every 40 - 50 cm.

First, you should fix the basement profile, limiting the hinged facade from below. Then brackets are attached to the wall with a step along the profiles of the crate of no more than 80 cm.

After that, thermal insulation slabs are laid on the wall, starting from the base. The plates of the brackets pass through the plates through the slots made in them. Then, in the same way, a windproof membrane is laid on the slabs. On top of the membrane, you need to install umbrella fasteners that will fix the insulation. It is important that the length of the brackets allows you to install the crate with the necessary clearance between the insulation and the cladding.

A crate is mounted on the insulated wall. The profiles are placed on the base profile, set vertically and fastened to the brackets with self-tapping screws or detachable rivets. In this case, not only the vertical of each profile is controlled, but also their alignment in a common plane. Everywhere you need to use only galvanized fasteners.

After installing the crate, the cladding is mounted. It is important that the ventilation gap remains open from below and above, and also that stagnant zones under the window sills do not form in it. In addition, it is very important that all kinds of folds or irregularities of the insulation do not block the vertical air flow.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

When calculating the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to take into account the thermal resistance of the wall from the timber in order to bring the total resistance of the wall to the required value. It is better to take the thickness with a margin in order to compensate for the influence of cold bridges and the possible deterioration of thermal insulation qualities at high humidity.

Mineral wool Hotrock

So how to insulate a log house from the outside. Mineral wool Hotrock is European-class basalt thermal insulation. The range includes boards of different densities, designed for insulation of a wide variety of structures, including ventilated facades. Depending on the features of a particular object, you can choose plates with a density of 35 to 90 kg / m 3. The thermal conductivity of all slabs in the dry state fluctuates around 0.035 - 0.038 W / m K. A 50 mm thick slab is equivalent in thermal resistance to a 150 mm thick pine beam.

Basalt wool is completely non-combustible, does not retain moisture, is not damaged by rodents and insects, fungi and mold do not develop in it. By the sum of its qualities, it is recognized as the best material for wall insulation.