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Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside and installation of a frame for drywall. Drywall for wall insulation Wall insulation for drywall

September 2, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outdoor decoration(plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works.

In fact, the technology of wall insulation with drywall from the inside largely depends on the wall itself, that is, on its thickness and the presence of insulation from the street. Nevertheless, the installation technique itself does not depend on these parameters and remains unchanged, so I want to fix the main direction precisely on technical conditions.

I will tell you about three possible and simple ways, materials and show the video in this article.

Warming under plasterboard

A few words about drywall: it can be wall (GKLS), ceiling (GKLP), moisture resistant (GKLV) and fire resistant (GKLO). In addition, there are also reinforced gypsum-fiber sheets (GKL) and moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets (GVLV).

About materials and efficiency

By and large, two heaters are used for gypsum boards - this is foam and mineral wool:

  • polystyrene is a material made by gas filling plastic mass and in this case, these are panels 1000 × 1000 mm and a thickness of 20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm;
  • there are two types of density that is used in household, and in most industrial premises- these are 15kg / m3 and 25kg / m3 (its price is higher);
  • so, there is little difference in thermal conductivity, but, it is very clearly visible during installation - the fifteenth sheets crumble heavily when cut, crumbling into granules, while the twenty-fifths behave quite worthy;
  • thickness is selected depending on the need in a particular case.

Mineral wool is different:

  • such general concept how mineral wool can mean three types of material, that is, made from different melts - GOST 31913-2011 (EN ISO 9229:2007);
  • there is glass wool, which is made from cullet melts, quartz sand and other materials that are used to make glass;
  • there is slag wool - such a product is made from melted blast-furnace slag, which, of course, remains in the metallurgical industry;
  • there is stone wool - it is made from a melt of basalt (this is volcanic lava) and the product itself has a gray-yellow color;
  • in addition, any mineral wool can be foil-coated on one side, and also produced in rolls or in blocks (panels).

For external insulation, as well as for insulating rooms with high humidity, it is best to use basalt wool. Glass wool is dangerous for the respiratory tract, therefore. It is inconvenient during installation, and slag contains particles of iron - they rust and the material sags, losing its properties.

Outside or inside

Pay attention to the diagram shown above - here the insulation is installed outside, and the dew point (condensation formation during temperature changes) falls on the insulation layer. I.e bearing wall It is protected from the influence of temperature changes and air humidity, which helps to increase the operational life of the building.

In the event that the walls are insulated from the inside with a mineral plate plus drywall or other cladding, the dew point moves. And it, as a rule, is between the insulation and the wall.

That is, you get a problem - fungal mold under insulation. Therefore, with internal insulation, you should pay attention to two factors - the thickness of the wall or the presence of insulation from the outside. As you can imagine, the most the best way, this is when the wall is insulated on both sides, or when it has sufficient thickness.

Installation: 1 way

Mineral wool or foam plastic can be installed between the profiles, and it does not matter what they are made of - metal or wood. Usually foam panels are used for this, but mineral wool blocks can also be used.

Most importantly, these panels fit snugly against the profiles. That is, in fact, this is their fixation. If it is mineral wool, where the panel does not have rigidity, then fungal dowels are used, which press the material against the rough surface.

Installation: 2 way

Another method, however, it is suitable exclusively for mineral wool. And it's not that this is an instruction - this is an installation technique (rigid foam).

A heater is installed on the mounted crate and tucked under the profiles. The method is certainly effective, but due to the weak zone in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe profile or bar, the insulation power is lost - this is the most convenient finishing of the loggia with drywall with insulation.

Installation: 3 way

And, finally, the third method, which is the most effective, but at the same time, does not differ from the first two methods in terms of labor intensity, is the installation of insulation under the profiles (here it can be both polystyrene and mineral wool).

The bottom line is that the material is mounted on the brackets (it is held on them) and only then the profiles are mounted - this method also automatically leaves a gap.

You may also need a heater for plasterboard partitions - in 99% it is mineral wool, which is mounted between the sheets.

Conclusion

Installing any of the heaters with your own hands under the GKL is quite simple, but at the same time try not to leave any free areas. Maybe you have something to offer on the topic - feel free to write your comment.

Even the most modern system heating can not always effectively heat an apartment if the walls are not insulated from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. It makes no sense for apartment owners to spend money on installing heating equipment if the building was not initially insulated.

One of the serious ways of heat leakage is the wall.

It is good for those who live in a private house, since there is an opportunity to insulate the structure from the outside. It is also possible to insulate walls outside and in skyscrapers, but here you will need the help of professional industrial climbers, which implies additional expenses for the event. Therefore, in apartments, the best option would be to insulate the walls with drywall with mineral wool.

Usually, in the construction of houses, mineral wool is used as a heater. From the beginning of its appearance to the present day, the material has undergone significant changes, which has led to quality improvements and a reduction in harm to nature and humans. Also, the scope of use has increased, and therefore its often used to insulate apartments from the inside.

It is worth remembering that under the definition of "mineral wool" lies the fact that it can be different types which differ in characteristics.

It happens to be cotton wool:

  1. Stone. The best option to insulate your home from the inside. Cotton wool is elastic and durable, not brittle and does not irritate the skin or mucous membranes in humans. Throughout the entire period of use, this drywall insulation does not lose its original qualities. It can absorb moisture to some extent, but its hygroscopicity is low.
  2. glass wool. It is chemically inert, does not rot, and biological objects cannot multiply in it. The disadvantage is that the material is brittle and prickly and can irritate the skin. Such a heater is not recommended for use in residential premises, since the fibers can enter the respiratory system with dust.
  3. slag wool. It is not suitable for the organization of thermal insulation in residential premises for many reasons. In addition to the fact that the material is brittle and brittle, it loses its properties over time. The composition contains slags that can increase the background radiation.

Although internal work can be done at any time of the year, experts recommend taking on them when it is dry and not frosty outside. Also, the room at the place of laying the insulation should be warmed up to a temperature of 15-20 degrees. This will prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure itself. So, drywall with insulation will last longer.

Preparatory work

Wall insulation with drywall from the inside technology involves production subject to certain rules. Initially, you need to prepare the base. From her all old finishing materials are removed(paint, plaster, whitewash, etc.). You can delete them different ways. It depends on the type of finish. The stage should not be ignored, since the insulation layer may be subjected to negative influences, which will shorten the life of the insulation material.

After removing the finish, the base itself must be checked for voids. To do this, you can use a hammer for tapping. If such places are identified, they should be eliminated.

Large irregularities on the base must also be removed. As a result, the wall should turn out smooth and even, so that the mineral wool fits snugly against it. If you leave voids there, then moisture can accumulate in them.

If there are gaps and cracks on the surface, they will need to be repaired. All flaws that can be removed are removed. Also, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt. Next is its primer. The mixture should be applied deep penetration.

To repair flaws on the wall, you can use special repair compounds. They are of different types. You can choose those that are optimally suited in composition for a particular wall. Mixtures will reduce the possibility of moisture absorption by the wall. You can also use the usual solution of sand and cement, but in this case you have to wait until it hardens after application.

Regardless of whether there is mold on the surface of the wall or not, it is mandatory treated with an antiseptic. This will not allow germs and bacteria to multiply there at home. This mixture also improves the adhesive properties of the wall.

Primers must be applied in volume 300 milliliters per square meter. If the wall absorbs the mixture abundantly, then the procedure should be repeated again. The liquid can be applied with a roller or brush. After priming the surface, allow time to dry.

Installation of insulation under drywall

Since the insulation for plasterboard partitions will have to be covered with sheets, then for this you need pre-create a frame base. It must be made from an aluminum profile CD60 or UD28. First, markup must be applied to the base. Vertical lines mark the location of the racks. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the drywall sheet. It is also worth immediately determining the place of joining drywall profiles.

After that, you can begin the most crucial stage - laying the insulation. Before such work, it is worth preparing glue for cotton wool. It must be diluted in accordance with the instructions on the package. The mixture should have a uniform consistency.

Next, the adhesive is applied to the slab with a spatula, and mineral wool is applied to the wall between the frame posts. If the mixture is squeezed out from under the cotton wool, then it should be removed immediately. It is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates.

Cotton wool must be tied together, similarly, like a brick. After completion of installation, the surface must be checked. If there are places left unfilled with cotton wool, then they are caulked.

After such work, it is necessary to give time for the glue to dry and grab. Take it can 15-20 hours. Then you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Difficulties at this stage usually do not arise, since everything is prepared for work in advance.

vapor barrier

The next step before installing drywall is to install a vapor barrier, as the dew points are at different levels. The reliability and quality of the entire system will depend on this. The vapor barrier membrane is glued to the cotton wool using double-sided tape.

Drywall installation

After installing the barrier, drywall sheets can be attached. The installation of profiles is carried out according to the usual practice. There are no special features in carrying out such work. Thermal insulation under the GKL is carried out carefully so as not to damage the vapor barrier membrane.

Video about insulation under drywall

You can learn more about the process of installing mineral wool under drywall in the video:

Conclusion

Experts note that it is worthwhile to carry out work on the internal insulation of walls only if there is no way to finish them from the outside. This will help save inner space in the apartment.

When carrying out work, you should adhere to the rules indicated above. The main task during such an event is to create a high-quality vapor barrier so that the walls do not start to dampen.

If it is not possible to insulate the outside, then the best way out is to insulate the walls from the inside with foam and drywall.

Many people are faced with freezing walls in apartments, private houses, on balconies or basements. The problem is solved by installing insulation on the outside of the building, but sometimes it is more expedient, cheaper and more reliable to do it from the inside.

When insulating walls, there is one significant disadvantage - the frame and insulation eat up space.

Choosing a heater

Foam plastic, mineral wool, foam plastic are used as a heat-insulating material.

  • Styrofoam is an artificial material. It is characterized by medium hygroscopicity, thermal conductivity and density. Flammable without special additives. They are insulated with external walls, balconies, basement floors.
  • Mineral wool is a time-tested material. It is characterized by high hygroscopicity and an average degree of thermal conductivity. Rarely used as insulation under drywall for interior spaces.
  • Penoplex - modern material obtained by thermal processing of foam. It is characterized by low hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity. Has a high density. Thanks to special additives, it practically does not burn. They insulate apartments, balconies, basement floors.

The optimal insulation for interior work is penoplex.

Insulation from the inside: pros and cons

Wall insulation with drywall from the inside is a technology that goes against the basics of heat engineering. However, there are situations when it is impossible to perform work outside. In this case, this technology is indispensable.

Of the minuses can be noted:

  • Dew point offset. It is highly likely that the walls will get wet.
  • Reducing the volume of the room. The metal frame, insulation and drywall "eat up" the usable area.
  • Reducing the threshold of ultimate loads on the wall. The insulation has a lower density than brick or concrete. When mounting heavy shelves on an insulated wall, anchoring may be required.

Warming methods

After choosing the material, the question arises of how to insulate the wall with drywall with your own hands. In home practice, two methods are used:

  • Frameless.
  • Frame.

There are two ways to insulate a wall: frameless and with a frame, the first is possible only in small areas.

Frameless way

A common type of insulation. No metal or wooden frame. It is used for warming small flat surfaces: internal walls apartments in panel houses, ground floors, garages; balconies and loggias.

Consider the sequence of actions for warming:

  1. Preparing the wall for pasting with foam.
    For the frameless method, you need a flat surface, without strong potholes.
    Let's start work on wall cladding with drywall with insulation from wallpaper, plaster, paint. If it is necessary to paste over an unplastered brick wall, then we knock down all the protruding masonry mortar.
    Loose base of old plaster can be treated with concrete contact. This will strengthen him.
    We close potholes and cracks cement-sand mortar. We mix it on the spot or buy ready-made in bags.
  2. Penoplex installation.
    We use for this "Penoplex-35", which has all the necessary properties. Standard size sheet - 600 × 1200 mm, thickness - 20 - 100 mm. As glue, we use special formulations that can be bought at the store. In extreme cases, tile adhesive will do.
    Before gluing, we process the surface of the sheet with a stiff brush. This will increase the coefficient of adhesion between the wall and the insulation.
    The glue is applied in a thin layer over the entire area using a corrugated spatula.
    We start pasting from the bottom corner. First we apply the sheet, press a little, hold for a few seconds. Then we let go.
    Butt seams are treated with silicone glue. If their width is more than 5 mm, then we close it with mounting foam.
    Additionally, you can fix the insulation with plastic dowels. The number of attachment points is 3–4 per 1 m2.
  3. Drywall installation.
    We use dry glue mixed with water.
    We apply it with a notched trowel to the entire surface or in strips. It freezes within 24 hours.
    Drywall with insulation can be separated by a layer of vapor barrier. The best option is penosol. Its shiny surface reflects heat from the interior. Condensation does not form. One "but": drywall cannot be glued to penosol. First you need to mount the frame.
  4. Finishing.
    We glue the seams between the sheets masking tape. Then we putty, paint or wallpaper the wall.

Frame method

Insulation of the wall with foam plastic and lining it with plasterboard along the frame are relevant for large uneven walls.

For frame insulation walls, there is no need to clean or level the walls.

  1. Surface preparation.
    You can not clean it, do not cover up small potholes. If necessary, pre-scatter the wiring.
  2. Frame installation.
    It comes in metal and wood. The metal profile is popular with consumers. Its size depends on the thickness of the insulation.
    First we mount the lower rails, then the upper ones. We fasten them to the wall and ceiling with the help of self-tapping dowels 40 - 50 mm in increments of 2 - 3 pcs. at 1 m p.
    Then we install vertical racks. First, insert them into the guide profile. Then fasten to the wall with hangers. Mounting on suspensions levels out all the irregularities of the wall. The step of installing vertical racks depends on the size of the insulation sheet. In our case, this is 600 mm.
    A wooden frame for wall insulation from the inside with drywall is mounted according to the same rules as a metal one.
    We treat wooden bars with an antiseptic. This will avoid rotting, mold and mildew.
  3. Heater installation.
    We process one side of the foam sheet with a metal brush to improve adhesion to the wall. Apply glue to the sheet with a notched trowel. Then insert it between uprights, press and hold for a few seconds. After we release. The glue will dry in about 24 hours.
    We close the seams silicone sealant. If they are wide, then use mounting foam.
    The metal profile is a bridge of cold. We fill the profile cavities with pieces of insulation or foam to avoid freezing.
  4. Installation of drywall sheets.
    Each sheet is applied to a metal profile or wooden beam. Then we fasten it with self-tapping screws measuring 20 - 25 mm. A layer of vapor barrier can be glued between the outer skin and the insulation.
  5. Finishing. Finished surface putty, paint, wallpaper.

The proposed technologies will help to insulate the wall and sheathe it with drywall. The main thing is to follow the rules and not violate the technology of work.

To any repair work held in the house must be approached with special attention, since from the selected building materials and the quality of work will depend on the final result. Unfortunately, the condition of many residential buildings today leaves much to be desired, which is why their residents suffer. It is necessary not only to change the old windows, but also to solve the issue of warming the apartment. Carry out work with outside difficult, but the insulation of the walls from the inside is done by hand. It is not only effective, but also accessible to everyone.

But often, along with the insulation of the walls, it is necessary to carry out work on their alignment. In such situation optimal solution will be the purchase of drywall sheets. By themselves, they have the property of sound absorption and thermal insulation, but the frame installation method leaves an air gap between the plasterboard and the wall, which makes it possible to use additional heaters. This is the most effective method keep the heat inside the room, which you can do in your home yourself. You only need to calculate the required amount of materials and get acquainted with the advice of professionals.

GKL can be attached to the wall with special glue, but this method is possible only if the wall surface has minor defects. But experts advise avoiding direct installation, and using a metal frame to insulate walls with drywall. Firstly, it allows you to better keep the heat in the room, and secondly, the metal profiles will not dry out over the years and will retain their shape.

Characteristics of drywall

Comfortable temperature in the house depends not only on the operation of heating devices, but also on the thermal insulation properties of the materials used for construction and wall cladding. The lower the coefficient of thermal conductivity, the warmer it will be in the room. Slits in the windows and cracks in the walls allow heat to pass through during the cold season, which is why the owners are forced to decide how to insulate the walls in order to keep the heat in the room.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of drywall is 0.15, which is 10 times lower than that of concrete that is familiar to residential buildings. Thus, the GKL itself does an excellent job of saving heat. But most often, a heater is placed under drywall, an additional layer of which improves the thermal insulation properties of the walls. This is possible due to the use of a special frame that creates an air gap.

The choice of heat-insulating filler

Experts consider insulation external walls more efficient. But in multi-storey residential buildings, it will be almost impossible to carry out work on your own. But the use of drywall as a heater can significantly save on hired labor and achieve high thermal insulation properties. On the this stage the most important issue will be the choice of insulation. Currently using:

  1. Styrofoam;
  2. glass wool;
  3. isolon;
  4. basalt (stone) wool.

Styrofoam remains relevant in the market of heaters. However, in residential areas, wall insulation with this material is best avoided. Firstly, rodents love it, so over time, the insulation layer will lose its properties, warm air will begin to leave the room through the holes that have appeared. And to replace the foam, you will have to open the finish, i.e. relive the repair. Secondly, the foam has low sound insulation and does not "breathe". Residential apartment will require additional ventilation. If you nevertheless chose it, then you will be pleased that this is a very simple and easy material to work with.

Glass wool also has low thermal conductivity, but this is a specific material that attracts only with its low price. Its main disadvantage for internal wall insulation with drywall is the presence of glass fibers, which, when in contact with the skin, cause itching and burning. It is necessary to work with glass wool only with gloves, protective clothing and a respirator. Such inconveniences, as a rule, repel buyers, so it is practically not used in residential premises.

Much more popular is isolon. This material has a number of advantages. It not only retains heat, but also does not let in noise, which saves on soundproofing. Do-it-yourself wall insulation from the inside takes not only time, but also the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Isolon has a small thickness, which allows the owners not to worry about the meters "eaten" by the insulation.

Often, basalt wool is involved in the thermal insulation of walls. In its properties, it is most similar to glass wool, but differs in composition. Rocks are used in its manufacture, which gives it fire resistance and hypoallergenicity. But its disadvantage is the price, it is more expensive than glass wool and polystyrene.

Each apartment owner must answer the question himself, how to insulate the walls with drywall. It is necessary to build on financial capabilities and your preferences. I would like to give only one piece of advice: if possible, then purchase insulation in the form of plates, not rolls. This will make your work easier and faster. The slab insulation has a standard width of 60 cm, which corresponds to the mounting step of the frame profile.

Installation of a frame from profiles for insulation

For the construction of a metal frame, the following materials are used:

  1. ceiling profile (PP) 60x27;
  2. guide profile (PN) 28x27;
  3. direct suspensions;
  4. self-tapping screws;
  5. dowels 6x33.

First, markup is applied, along which guide profiles will be fixed for further wall insulation. Their fastening is carried out with the help of dowels, which are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm from each other. To avoid the appearance of cold bridges, a special tape is placed under the suspensions and PN. Direct suspensions are used as brackets and are attached to the rack with self-tapping screws.

Before laying the insulation and sheathing the GKL frame, make sure that there is no fungus in the room. After all, after all the work is completed, its spread can lead to the fact that you have to re-open the walls and clean. Inspect all surfaces carefully. If in doubt, dry the wall or corner with a blow dryer and then mechanically remove the mold with a wire brush. Top with a fungicide. After this, putty the wall with waterproofing putty, and after complete drying, proceed to the construction of the frame and the insulation of the walls with drywall sheets.

Wall insulation and plasterboarding

The final step is quite simple. If you are using slabs, then just lay them in the frame. Make sure that all voids in the room are filled. If necessary, tile insulation is easily cut into the right dimensions knife. If your material is on a roll, then you will need to immediately cut it.

Roll insulation requires additional fixation, which is carried out with the help of umbrella dowels or glue. An important step in insulating the walls from the inside on your own is the sheathing of the frame with a vapor barrier membrane. It will not let steam through, which will penetrate from the room through the GKL, which means it will not allow the insulation to absorb moisture.

Now it remains only to fix the GKL with self-tapping screws on the frame. To do this, use a screwdriver. Self-tapping screws should enter the drywall sheet at an angle of 90 degrees, while the head should be 1 mm buried in the plasterboard. This will facilitate subsequent puttying and final surface finishing. The fastening step is 25 cm. After that, the heads of the screws and the joints of the sheets are puttied, rubbed with sandpaper and primed with a special solution. And after the wall is painted or glued wallpaper. That's all that is needed to insulate the walls. Would you be able to handle such a job? We are waiting for your comments under the article.

This method of reducing heat loss has a significant drawback - when arranging the internal insulation layer, the dimensions of the room are reduced. And yet, this is how quite often real estate owners finish their buildings. When is it appropriate?

  • Firstly, although external insulation is the main one for all structures, it is often impossible to equip it for purely technical reasons. For example, if the building is adjacent to another building that is not heated at all (utility or storage rooms, etc.).
  • Secondly, even if high-quality external insulation does not provide proper efficiency.

The question involuntarily arises, what does drywall have to do with it, which does not belong to the group of insulating materials? Yes, in itself, this product is not a “heat insulator”, but it is advisable to use it for interior decoration surfaces during such events. Its sheets have a strict geometry and flat surface, so you can lay any heat-insulating material to insulate the walls from the inside under drywall.

By the way, indirectly, he himself helps to reduce heat loss. During the installation process, a small gap remains between the insulation material and drywall, an air “cushion”. And such a layer does not transmit heat well.

Stages of thermal insulation of the wall

Wall preparation

Quite often, in articles on this topic, it is indicated that the only condition is to ensure that the surfaces are dry and clean. But if you take a closer look at this issue, it will become clear that you should not limit yourself to activities such as “cleaning - washing - drying”. Further decoration of the wall, for which it is being prepared, will hide it from our eyes for a long time.

Therefore, you need to make sure that it is reliably protected from various influences, and first of all, moisture. This will allow for a long time not to worry about the state of the base on which the insulation is laid.

To do this, after cleaning it, a zealous owner must treat the surface with special impregnating compounds (antiseptics and fire retardants). For wood, such work is mandatory.

Well, if the wall has significant defects, then they must be immediately eliminated. Any cracks, cracks at the joints are those “loopholes” through which heat will escape. In addition, large irregularities (especially bumps) will greatly complicate the further process of wall insulation from the inside under drywall.

Fastening the crate under drywall

Many thermal insulation materials can be fixed in place by gluing. But do not forget that then you will also need to mount the sheets outer skin. It is for them that the supporting frame is prepared in the first place, since drywall will be fixed on its rails.

A little about this design. Traditionally, wood is used for its installation. But this material in this case has, in our opinion, 2 limitations.

  • Firstly, 1 rail weighs a little, but the whole assembly is already a rather massive structure. And if the walls of their cellular concrete? It is clear that there will be difficulties with fastening.
  • Secondly, depending on local conditions, the characteristics of the heat-insulating material are calculated, including its thickness (say, 10 cm). Therefore, under it you need to choose and slats. The crate will be quite heavy, and such slats will still have to be looked for.

It is more expedient to buy profiles, especially since there are special ones on sale, designed specifically for laying insulation under drywall. It is better to purchase "galvanized", as it can be cut even with scissors (thickness - about 0.5 mm).

Now - about the distance between the profiles. It is necessary to focus on the dimensions of the sheets of drywall and insulation, since cutting them is much more difficult, and an extra waste of time. But since they are rectangular, they can be fixed in different ways - vertically, horizontally. General principle the choice of the necessary “profile step” is clear.

Before installing them on the “sole”, a special tape should be glued. This will reduce the heat transfer between the profiles and the wall and exclude possible temperature deformation of the rails. Although it is insignificant, it will affect the quality of the sealing of the joints.

Installation of insulation under drywall

Products are stacked between the rails of the supporting frame. The nuances of fastening depend on the type of material. For example, the foam is glued to the wall, additionally fixed with special dowels.

All joints must be sealed. Between the plates - with construction tape, between the insulation and the ceiling - with silicone sealant.

Surface Finish

It also depends on the type of insulation. For example, if it is mineral wool, then it must be protected from moisture, which it absorbs well. For this, appropriate materials are used (“Ekofol and a number of others). It is necessary to equip and vapor barrier. When choosing a "heat insulator" on this issue, you should consult with a specialist.

1 - drywall sheet; 2 - vapor barrier; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - cement particle board; 6 - wooden frame

Drywall fixing

Produced by self-tapping screws. The joints of the sheets must be puttied. After that, it is advisable to treat them with sandpaper and cover, for example, with a paint and varnish composition, with tape, in order to prevent cracking of the putty.

  • All used heaters for drywall (as well as its sheets) have certain dimensions. Therefore, the dimensions of all materials used must be selected so that they “fit together. Then there will be fewer different “cuts”, adjustments, therefore, the work will go faster. In addition, you need to understand that the more joints, the lower the quality of thermal protection.
  • If communication lines pass along the walls, then the insulation must be brought under them. You may need thinner material. All this is calculated in advance.
  • In order not to disturb the natural circulation of air masses, a small gap must be left between the slats and the insulation material.
  • If something is supposed to be attached to the wall (a picture, a cabinet, and so on), then appropriate notes must be made on the surface of the drywall (where to install the hardware).

You need to understand that the insulation of only one wall will not give the desired effect. Such an event should be carried out comprehensively, with the finishing of all surfaces of the room.

We insulate the walls with drywall - the secrets of a warm and cozy apartment

Insulation of the apartment allows you to significantly save on heating in the autumn-winter season. Most often, walls are insulated inside the apartment, and not outside. It is much more economical, does not require the services of professional workers and expensive materials for exterior decoration. For thermal insulation indoors, as a rule, structures made of metal profiles and plasterboard sheets are used. This method is easy and quick to install. Today you will learn how to self-installation plasterboard construction in the apartment.

How well does drywall hold heat?

Gypsum boards, among other advantages, have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. For this material, it is 0.15, which is ten times lower than that of reinforced concrete. This allows you to significantly save heat in the apartment and not let in cold air or summer heat.

Usually, to enhance the effect of wall insulation, Additional materials, which are placed between the main wall and the new structure. For thermal insulation, polystyrene or polystyrene can be used. These materials are easy to work with, but they are not often used in insulation. the main problem in that their effects on the human body have not been fully studied. In addition, they absorb sounds poorly, and small rodents can damage them. Glass wool is used more often due to its budgetary cost and low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantage of the material is that it must be mounted only with gloves. The composition of glass wool causes itching and irritation when it comes into contact with the skin. Basalt wool is very similar to glass wool, but it is made from rocks magnetic origin. One of the highest quality heat and sound insulating materials is isolon. It is sold in thin sheets, which allows you not to change the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room too much.

Installation of drywall sheets

If working with drywall is new to you, you must first familiarize yourself with some of its features. Before mounting the guide profiles, a special tape is laid along the intended installation lines. It will serve as protection against contact with the plaster. In this case, the drywall will be protected from the cold that comes from the metal profile.

Metal profiles are usually installed at a distance of 2 cm from the wall. It is recommended to mount the frame from a galvanized profile. After installing the frame, insulation boards are superimposed behind it. You must insert the material vertically. In no case should the edges of the insulation protrude beyond the front side of the profile.

Step-by-step drywall insulation (video)

When installing additional heaters, they should fit comfortably between the main wall and drywall construction. To install rolled thermal insulation materials or better fix the plates, it is recommended to glue them to the main wall or use special dowels-umbrellas. They differ from the standard large hat.

So that moisture does not accumulate in the insulation and it does not lose its properties, it is covered with a special vapor barrier membrane. This material will be a barrier to warm air that leaves the room through drywall sheets. Next, drywall sheets are attached to the structure using self-tapping screws. Quite often, not metal, but wooden fasteners are used, because they have lower thermal conductivity. However, the tree also has a minus - it deforms over time.

After installing drywall, further finishing of the room is carried out. Following the processing of drywall, which we wrote about earlier, wallpaper, tiles, decorative rock or other finishing materials.

Insulation of an unheated room

Many novice builders are interested in the question of installing drywall in an unheated room. We immediately warn you: most professionals are against such installation. The fact is that even moisture-resistant material cannot withstand strong drops temperature and humidity. If you still decide to install plasterboard structures in such a room, but do not want to install additional thermal insulation, it is enough to fix the sheets on a frame made of metal profiles. The air between the structure and the main wall will provide some thermal insulation.

It is possible to insulate an unheated room, such as a loggia or a balcony, only under certain conditions. First, it must be glazed. This is not about simple wooden frames, but at least double-glazed windows. They provide reliable protection against moisture and cold. In addition to the walls, you will need to insulate the floor and ceiling, which are covered with high-quality moisture-resistant drywall.

GKL can be used in loggias that are attached to a living room with a normal microclimate. Think carefully before proceeding with the installation of drywall in such rooms, because the design “eats up at least 6-7 cm of space. Thermal insulation in the loggia is carried out in the same way as in ordinary rooms, but with some features. First, the wall is covered with waterproofing material.

findings

If you approach the insulation of the walls responsibly, you can create an atmosphere of comfort in any apartment. We hope that our simple instruction will help you to implement this plan. Good luck.

Granular material based on polystyrene. It has low density and light weight. Available in slabs of various thicknesses.

Often used because of the low cost, ease of installation, it can be bought at any hardware store. The disadvantages include: Drywall is preferred to be used for wall cladding, because it has a number of advantages over other finishing materials:

How to sheathe walls with drywall without a frame, video

Environmental design Are you renovating and need ceramic tile? You can buy ceramic tiles anywhere - in the market, in a building supermarket, in a building warehouse. But still, it is more profitable to do this in an online store. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, you need to mark on the surface the place of attachment of the guide profile, which is installed on the floor and ceiling around the perimeter of the room with an indent of 5 cm.

It should be borne in mind that this gap is sufficient for laying internal electrical wiring, insulation or sound insulation. How to detect it yourself weak spots plasters? To find such places, look for cracks. You can also tap the surface of the wall.

Plaster that does not adhere well sounds muffled. This method uses 12mm sheets of drywall, as with window sheathing. The first step is to make a complete surface preparation, namely: Applying step by step instructions and choosing drywall for wall decoration, you can get an excellent result with a minimum of effort 1 - drywall sheet; 2 - sealant; 3 - guide profile, 4 - ceiling profile; 5 - clearance for wall unevenness or pipe wiring; 6 - direct suspension; 7, 8 - sealing tape Alignment of profiles is controlled on both planes (vertical, horizontal) by the building level. This is important, otherwise drywall sheets do not form a flat surface.

In the case of fastening drywall sheets to the walls with glue, the working surface is pre-cleaned of dust. Also here it is worth making sure that the plaster layer is reliable, if there are problems, then they are eliminated without fail. If there is old paint on the walls, it is removed if possible, or notches are made on the surface with a chisel (every 10 cm horizontally and every 30 cm vertically). To cut the plates, you will need a ruler and a clerical knife.

First, an incision is made on one side of the sheet, after which the plate is bent at the place of the incision, then the cardboard is incised on the other side. A neat cut in the shape of a semicircle is easiest to do with a hand saw. Thermal insulation performance when using one or another type of material will depend on compliance with the installation rules and the thickness of the insulation.

To strengthen the rigidity of the entire structure, it is necessary to make transverse jumpers from the same material (CD profile). This is done according to the following algorithm.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation from the inside with drywall, video

Procurement of materials and tools. From the materials you will need drywall itself, insulation (polystyrene or mineral wool), metal or wooden slats for the frame, fasteners, self-adhesive tape, vapor barrier membrane, liquid against fungus. Wall treatment with waterproofing putty- an additional measure to prevent the appearance of dampness. The 1st layer is applied vertically, the 2nd horizontally.

Drywall fasteners- often use umbrella dowels. For ordinary apartment buy GKL, but if there is high humidity, do not risk it, but take GKLV right away. Read about fixing this and other heat-insulating materials to the wall in another article. Decide on the type of plasterboard by the type of edge and size.

Consider what the most popular manufacturer offers. Frame installation- we still recommend staying at metal frame, since it will last much longer than the slats from the timber. Before mounting the frame on the profile, glue a self-adhesive tape that will not allow the transfer of cold. Wall preparation- they need to be cleaned, cracks repaired, dried well, traces of fungus or mold removed with a special brush or grinder.

Dry the walls either with a building hair dryer or a heater.

how insulate the wall in the apartment from the inside with drywall: materials and technology

Unlike the same foam, mineral wool (and all heat-insulating materials in the form of wool) is an excellent insulation for drywall, which fits perfectly into the frame, which does not lead to the appearance of mold, fungus and other similar troubles. Also, such a heat insulator does not burn, does not emit hazardous gases and is not afraid of emergency soaking. At present, wall insulation with drywall from the inside is a process that consists of several main stages, each of which should be given special attention: When laying insulation, it is imperative to exclude open sections of the wall, lay the material in full thickness without pressing.
It is not the wool itself that retains heat, but the air between the fibers, and therefore it is by no means recommended to compress the material, because the overall level of thermal insulation may fall. Particular attention should be paid to the sloping part of the wall, where mineral wool should fill the entire space;

Advice. To achieve the greatest effect of thermal insulation, the structure must be moved away from the wall by 3-10 centimeters.
It is important to remember that the farther from the wall the guide profile is installed, the less insulation will fit behind it. If you do the wall insulation from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall with your own hands, then you need to prepare a certain set of materials and tools in advance. Wall insulation with drywall from the inside has its advantages, but also a significant disadvantage: the usable area of ​​your apartment is reduced.

However, this method is quite common.

  1. The weight of the constructed frame can come out quite decent. Provided that the walls are made of cellular concrete, serious difficulties with fastening can arise.
  2. The frame is made taking into account the technical indicators of the selected insulation. The design again turns out to be extremely heavy and only adds to the problem.