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How to sheathe walls with clapboard with your own hands: the choice of wood species, profile, installation. How to sheathe a house with clapboard outside? It's easier than it looks

Clapboard appeared on the building materials market relatively recently, but has already managed to gain popularity. It provides excellent appearance, easy to install and high strength.

Today, lining the facade with clapboard can be found on residential buildings, baths, office buildings and shops. This popularity is due to a number of advantages of this finishing material, among which:

  • excellent thermal insulation properties;
  • protection from external factors (rain, wind, snow);
  • ease of installation;
  • soundproofing;
  • thermal insulation;
  • light weight;
  • variety of material and color palette;
  • increase the life of the building.

Facade panels are made of plastic, metal, fiber cement, wood.

Definitely determine the best lining is difficult. The choice always depends on the operating conditions and the purpose of the building. Before choosing a cladding, specialists must take into account the climatic features of the area, the type of structure and its operational properties.

In order to produce a competent comparative characteristic lining, its features should be considered in terms of such parameters as cost, durability, service life and safety.

Sometimes cost becomes a fundamental factor when choosing lining. building material. However, cheap does not mean good.

Of course, wood has a higher price and the cost of such panels depends on the type of wood and class. Present on the market today wide selection eurolining class "A" or "Extra". More durable wood, strict quality control and the difference between defects causes a fairly high price.

The most common is class B pine lining, which is great for sheathing. country houses, terraces, baths.

Plastic (vinyl) lining will cost an order of magnitude cheaper, but at the same time, it does not provide that natural appearance that many people like so much.

The service life depends on the features of operation. Atmospheric precipitation, temperature, air humidity and other criteria have a direct impact. Therefore, when choosing the type of distillation, all these factors should be taken into account.

Plastic lining is not at all afraid of moisture, but at the same time it does not have sufficient resistance to temperature changes. Vinyl tolerates exposure to UV radiation, but does not tolerate mechanical impact from the outside. Any small impact is enough and the integrity of the panels can be broken.

The popularity of vinyl panels determines the diversity color solutions, allowing you to select the appropriate range for the style and exterior of the building. The scope of vinyl products is very wide, they are widely used in facing balconies, loggias, arbors. But low frost resistance makes this material undesirable when facing houses in climatic zones with strong temperature fluctuations.

Vinyl siding example

The tree is characterized by increased strength to mechanical damage, is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, but does not like moisture. Specialists treat wooden lining with special protective compounds to improve its performance. Wood creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort that no other material can convey.

If we talk about safety, then vinyl lining is not subjected to fire-resistant impregnation. When burning, vinyl melts, evaporating harmful substances.

The wood finish is great solution for a bath, a terrace or a private house. To increase the fire resistance, the boards are pre-treated with a special impregnation. The unique structure of the tree, its healing properties and environmental friendliness causes a wide demand for this material.

With improper care, the tree quickly loses its properties. It can crack and deform. For this purpose, before installing this material, experts carry out a thorough treatment with special antiseptic and hydrophobic mixtures. This prevents the appearance of mold, fungus and protects the wood from moisture penetration. As for the care, the wood is hard to wash and clean. Over time, it can change the shade and lose its original freshness.

Plastic, on the other hand, is easy to care for. It is enough to wipe with a damp cloth or apply cleaning agents and the vinyl looks like when it was originally clad. Despite the high resistance to FU rays, the plastic may lose color brightness over time, which does not affect its operational properties.

Vinyl clapboard is often called laminated type panels, which perfectly imitate the structure of wood, fake diamond or metal, which allows you to embody any design idea.

Thus, the following advantages can be distinguished from plastic lining:

  • low weight;
  • resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
  • manifold colors;
  • long service life;
  • ease of care;
  • ease of installation.

Peculiarities

Wooden lining- these are panels of certain dimensions with a tenon-groove fastening. For production coniferous and deciduous breeds of wood are used. The most popular material for the production of wooden lining is pine, spruce, ash, alder and linden. You can rarely find oak lining, which is explained by its high price.

Standard board sizes:

  • board thickness can vary from 12 to 25 mm;
  • width - up to 150 mm;
  • length - up to 6000 mm.

Eurolining, which is one of the varieties of wooden lining, is characterized by higher strength and best quality execution. It belongs to class A, the quality standard regulates the presence of no more than one knot for every one and a half meters of the board. Higher requirements are imposed on its production, respectively, and the price of such material is much higher. Eurolining "Extra" class eliminates any knots and cracks and is one of the most expensive materials.

Eurolining sizes have more stringent standards:

  • there are four types of width 80, 100, 110 or 120 mm;
  • board length varies from 500 to 6000 mm;
  • thickness can be 13, 16 or 19 mm.

Styling stage wooden planks preceded special processing antiseptic to prevent mold and mildew. Treatment with an antiseptic significantly increases the life of the facing material and increases its strength and wear resistance.

Prices for wood preservatives

Impregnation for wood

What should be considered when choosing a wooden lining?

When choosing wooden boards as a building cladding, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

  • type of wood (pine, spruce, larch);
  • wood class (extra, A, B, C);
  • wood drying method. The strength of the material and its service life depend on this. For high-quality drying of lining, special drying chambers are needed. This, of course, increases the cost of the product, but such material will also serve much longer.

Metal lining often referred to as metal siding. This material has a smooth surface that does not require additional processing and painting.

Metal lining has a high service life (about 50 years), withstands strong swings temperatures and does not corrode. But this material also has disadvantages. Metal lining is not flexible. The variety of colors, imitation of wood or stone makes this type of wall paneling a fairly versatile and popular building material.

Siding "L-Beam" (metal, coating "Ecosteel")

Prices for lining

Types of laying

There are two ways to fasten the lining: vertical and horizontal. Before choosing a method, you should consider that vertical cladding will visually increase the height of the building exterior.

Horizontal, on the contrary, will visually increase the facade in breadth. Before buying material, calculate how many boards you will need for one and the other method. Consider the width and length of the bars to minimize waste.

Choosing a mounting method: disadvantages and advantages

There are several types of fastening the lining to the facade of the house. Each of them has its pros and cons, and the choice of method should be dictated not only by the lining material, but also by operational features.


A set of tools you may need:

  • electric drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • hacksaw for wood or electric jigsaw;
  • roulette;
  • construction stapler;
  • a hammer;
  • rule;
  • level (water or alcohol).

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

In addition to high-quality and reliable tools, you will need the following consumables:


What work to do first?

Before construction works you need to carefully treat each board and timber with an antiseptic.

Please note that many antiseptics contain a coloring pigment that will affect the decorative function of the lining. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, it is recommended to process only the inside of the material, and varnish the outside after laying. If the facade is being prepared for painting, it does not matter and both sides can be treated with an antiseptic.

Let the lining dry well so as not to impair its technical characteristics.

Cladding the facade with wooden clapboard: step by step instructions

The process of lining a building with clapboard is quite simple. Even without experience, but at the same time clearly following the instructions, you will be able to independently produce Finishing work.

Before you start finishing work, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of the house. We choose the material for insulation. There are several types of insulation on the market today. outer skin: mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene, cellulose insulation.

In order to finish the house with clapboard and at the same time carry out thermal insulation work, it is necessary to mount the crate of the building. This will create the necessary air space between which you can lay an additional layer of insulation. All electrical wires and ventilation ducts are also hidden under the crate. In addition, the crate provides proper ventilation, which significantly increases the service life of the facade finish. If the wall surface is perfectly flat and does not require additional insulation at home, the finishing strips can be nailed directly to concrete wall dowel-nails.

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Preparing walls for framing

Step 1. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall surface from any dirt and peeling fragments of paint, plaster. This can be done with a spatula.

Step 2 We remove all protruding structures and parts from the facade (door trims, window frames, visors, etc.). Those parts that cannot be dismantled must be cut with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Step 3 We close up all cracks, large holes cement mortar or putty on wood and let dry well during the day.

Video - Repair cracks on the wall of the house

Step 4 After complete drying, it is necessary to carefully treat the facade with an antiseptic substance and prime it well. This will prevent the spread of mold, fungus on the walls. Antiseptic also serves as an excellent protection against termites and other harmful insects.

Installation of a two-layer crate

For the installation of the crate, it is necessary to choose dry weather, and the timber that will be used for construction must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. Drying of the material must be carried out for at least two weeks, since the maximum allowable moisture content of the timber can be 15%.

For the crate of the house, a wooden or metal profile is suitable, but it is better to tie the choice of material to the lining itself. If you plan to clad the facade with wood, then it is better to take wooden beams as the material for the crate. This will simplify the wiring diagram. If the crate is planned for metal siding, then you can choose a galvanized profile 28x27 mm.

Sometimes builders create a combined version of the crate. A wooden crate is created around the perimeter of the whole house, and a metal profile frame is built for the basement floor in order to protect the structure from moisture as much as possible, because it will be elevated near the ground.

Since we are considering a scheme for fastening a wooden lining, we will also use wood as a material for the construction of the crate.

Step 1. Mount horizontally wooden beam

If the crate is created on a wooden house, then it is necessary to create a sliding structure (we use corners with vertical holes).

The distance between the bars should be 40 cm. If you decide to lay mineral wool slabs for insulation, then focus on the width of the slab, reducing or increasing the fastening step. We fix the crate on U-shaped suspensions in order to achieve the most even surface.

Step 2. We carry out work on thermal insulation

We take a heater and lay it between the wall of the house and the created wooden structure.

Step 3. Create a wind and hydro barrier

To do this, we take a special protective film and fix it with a construction stapler over the grate. We apply the film with an overlap of 10-15 cm in order to avoid violation of thermal and waterproofing.

Prices for material for vapor barrier

Vapor barrier material

Step 4. We mount the counter-lattice

This is necessary to ensure proper ventilation. Now we mount the counter-lattice vertically, with a step of 40 cm. We fasten a wooden lath 50x10 mm to the existing crate with nails. All this is done in the vertical direction, since the cladding is supposed to be horizontal.

Construction of a single-layer crate

If the insulation of the house is not expected, then you can limit yourself to installing a single-layer crate.

Step 1. We check the level of wooden bars and build a vertical structure from them. To do this, we fasten the bars with U-shaped suspensions at the corners of the house with a distance between the fasteners of 50 cm. We check their verticality with a level.

Now we take 3 cords (the length is equal to the length of the wall) and connect these bars with three laces (top, middle and bottom). This will further facilitate the removal of a flat plane. You can use a rule for this purpose. This tool facilitates the alignment of the cords exactly on the plane.

Step 2 After the laces are pulled, we begin to build the rest of the crate in a vertical position in increments of 40-50 cm. The laces in this case will be beacons for setting the plane. Reiki should not protrude beyond the lace and change its tension.

Step 3 After the whole structure is built and checked by the level, we remove the laces and proceed directly to the lining of the facade with clapboard.

Horizontal installation of wooden lining

This type of fastening involves movement from top to bottom. This will protect the sheathing material from moisture and dirt. We use clamps (metal staples) for fastening to ensure the reliability of the cladding and aesthetic appearance. In addition, it greatly simplifies and speeds up the process of finishing work.

Scheme of installation of wooden siding, insulated facade

Step 1. We take the first rail of the lining and nail it to the upper beam of the crate under the roof. To avoid cracking the board, drive the nail at a 45 degree angle. You can pre-wet the nail to reduce the chance of damaging the board. For installation, it is better to use finishing nails 50 mm long.

Step 2 Now we insert the clamp into the bottom groove of the first board and nail it with 20 mm nails. This is done so that the top board does not start to “play” during subsequent installation.

Step 3 We take the next board of the lining, insert it into the groove of the first board and fix it from below again with a kleimer along the bars of the crate. The kleimer must be fastened with 20 mm nails using a hammer, but in order to facilitate the process and protect your hands, use a "spacer". To do this, take a 100 mm nail, turn it upside down and put a 20 mm nail into the head with a hat.

Step 4 The last board is cut to size and inserted into the groove of the previous board. But there is small nuance. If you cut the board exactly to the size of the remaining gap, then we will not be able to get it into the groove of the previous lining. Therefore, it must be cut 1.5 cm shorter. This will allow you to easily insert it into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees, press it against the crate and press it with the mount from the bottom up until it is completely fixed.

Step 5 Now we nail the 50 mm panel with a nail (as in the case of the first board) to the crate at the bottom of the last board.

Step 6 final touch is the installation of a base skirt, which will close the connection gap. We fasten the base skirt with 50 mm nails or galvanized screws with a press washer 30 mm long.

Step 7 We close the corner outer joints with decorative corners using 50 mm nails. To hide the presence of fasteners as much as possible, you can use a little trick. To do this, we do not hammer the nail to the end, bite off the hat with wire cutters and drive it in with a cloth flush with the corner. The fastener pitch must be at least 50 cm on both sides of the corner.

We produce vertical cladding: step by step instructions

The main difference between this laying is that the crate is carried out in a horizontal position, and the lining will be sewn vertically.

Important! When choosing the material and type of installation, consider the dimensions of the wall. With vertical cladding, it is necessary to take into account the length of the lining so that there is no horizontal seam around the entire perimeter of the building. It is necessary to clad the walls with a checkerboard offset, or install a panel strip.


Vertical cladding with plastic clapboard: step by step instructions

You will need the following materials:

  • dowels 6x80 mm;
  • stapler staples;
  • plastic lining;
  • plinth skirt;
  • decorative plastic corners (external, internal or universal);
  • bars for the construction of the crate (50x50 mm);
  • self-tapping screws;
  • glue for plastic;
  • U-shaped hangers.

Step 1. We mount the crate of the building. If insulation is planned, we make a double crate (see above). If the house does not need an additional heat-insulating layer, we limit ourselves to a single-layer crate.

Step 2 We take plastic lining and fasten outer part self-tapping screws to the crate. Do not forget that the laying of plastic panels is carried out strictly perpendicular to the crate. We cut the plastic panel according to the necessary measurements with a hacksaw.

Step 3 We fix the inner part of the lining with a construction stapler to the frame bars. Always check whether the entire surface of the panel has entered the lock to prevent further deformation of the wall and loss of integrity.

Step 4 We insert the next board into the fasteners and fix it with a stapler to the crate in increments of 40 cm.

Step 5 The finishing panel is fixed with a screw with a press washer. After that, apply a decorative corner and fix it with glue.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

At the end of the article, we suggest that you carefully read the video instructions on how to properly install the lining to the facade of the building.

Video - Sheathing a frame house with clapboard, using the example of one wall

Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame

Wooden lining (evrovonka), which was pressed by siding and plastic panels is slowly gaining ground. More and more users prefer this beautiful, natural and time-tested material.

Naturally, many construction teams offer services for the installation of wooden lining (euro lining). But, not everyone has the money to pay for third-party work, or simply, if you don’t want to build a house, then at least make the outer or inner wall cladding on your own. Therefore, below is a material focused on those who are interested self-assembly wagons made of wood.

How to sheathe a house with a clapboard with your own hands

At first glance, it may seem that lining walls and ceilings is a simple and time-consuming process. As it is not paradoxical, but the way it is. To work, you will need minimal skills in working with a tool, wood and step-by-step instruction for the installation of wooden lining.

Step 1 - Choosing a wooden lining

To choose the right wooden lining for wall decoration, you need to take into account the influence of such factors:

  • Purpose of the premises. Depending on the purpose of the room, the requirements for lining will differ.
  • for a sauna, you need eurolining of the “elite” class, preferably of coniferous species;
  • any lining is suitable for exterior decoration, the main thing is to ensure its proper protection from all possible damage;
  • for interior spaces- the main requirement is the environmental friendliness of the material.
  • Ways of fastening a wooden lining. They will have a key influence on the calculation of the material for installation. There are several ways:

Sheathing lining vertically. The most common method. Two factors contributed to this. Firstly, the vertical fastening reliably protects the tongue and groove from water leakage. Secondly, it allows you to visually raise the height of the ceilings of the room.

Note: vertical installation of lining is the most optimal for a steam room, as it allows condensate to flow down.

Sheathing clapboard horizontally. The easiest way. Finishing with clapboard horizontally allows you to hide possible flaws on the surface of the walls. Horizontal fastening is more often used for exterior decoration, and the lining is installed with a groove down to avoid water leakage.

Diagonal clapboard trim. A very wasteful method in terms of material consumption. But winning when decorating broken surfaces, for example, attic walls.

Herringbone lining. Quite laborious, requiring serious calculations, but at the same time the most economical way to mount the lining, allowing the use of small pieces of lining;

Combined lining lining. Allows you to create geometric patterns from boards of different lengths, mounted at different angles. However, such fastening requires certain skills and is characterized by a high consumption of material as scraps. And also complex from the point of view of the frame device.

Note. Not all lining profiles allow you to choose the installation method. For example, a block house or an American is mounted only horizontally. Therefore, when choosing a laying method, consider the configuration of the lamella.

You can also combine horizontal and vertical wall cladding with clapboard.

  • wood species. For the manufacture of lining, both coniferous and deciduous species of wood are used. The choice depends on the purpose of the room, for example, conifers are more resistant to moisture, and hardwoods are more durable. And also on the cost of the material, the desired color and texture.
  • Variety of wooden lining. The type of lining can be determined "by eye" knowing the main parameters that determine it. These include: the presence of knots, wormholes, chips, darkening, etc. The highest quality is the "extra" or "elite" variety, which is reflected in its cost. This is followed by varieties 1 (A), 2 (B), 3 (AB).

Note. The presence of knots, especially dead ones (able to fall out), in addition to the visual effect, reduces the ability of wood to retain heat.

  • Lining dimensions. Due to the fact that the cost of lining is usually indicated per square meter, its dimensions will be important.
  • lining thickness. For outdoor work, you need to take a thicker board (20-25 mm.), For internal work, 10-16 mm will be enough;
  • lining width. Doesn't matter. But, users note that for a small room it is worth choosing a narrow board. Conversely, a narrow board on a large surface will "ripple" in the eyes;
  • lining length. The maximum length of the panels is 6,000 mm. It is necessary to choose a length at which there will be the least amount of joints and waste. In addition, it is worth considering the problem of large-sized transportation.
  • lining type(determined by the appearance of the lamella):
  • ordinary lining (classic, calm, standard). It does not have primary processing and is distinguished by a short comb (up to 5 mm), which can create difficulties for beginners when installing with their own hands;
  • eurolining. It has more accurate geometric parameters due to stringent requirements for production, packaging and storage. It features an elongated comb (up to 8 mm.);
  • block house. Imitates rounded timber, more common in exterior decoration;
  • American. The difference of this lining in the absence of the "groove-comb" system. It can only be mounted horizontally.

Step 2 - Calculation of wooden lining

When purchasing a lining, you need to know how much material is required. The price of wooden lining is usually indicated in square meters, less often in cubic meters. But, a simple, mathematical calculation in this case is unsuitable. Since, the quadrature will be influenced by the length of the lining, the height of the walls of the house, the number and size of window / doorways. And the thickness of the lamella is also per cubic capacity.

There are three ways to calculate lining:

  1. Intuitive. The perimeter of the surface area to be finished with clapboard is considered. The area of ​​the openings is subtracted from it. And from 10 to 30% for waste are added to the result. A simple but not very accurate way. For those who want to save money, it is clearly not suitable.

  2. Mathematical. It is more scrupulous and involves the calculation of the number of lining lamellas piece by piece. Those. takes into account the length and width of the lamella, as well as the parameters of the openings. To calculate, you need to divide the length of the surface by the width of the lamella. Thus, it is possible to determine the number of lamellas, and take into account their length. As a result of the calculations, we get the exact value. In this case, no more than 10% is left for waste.

  3. Program. in online mode.

Tip: at the point of sale, you need to choose the length of the lining closest to the desired one in order to reduce scrap waste.

The waste percentage is determined by two parameters:

  • First, the type of lining. The lower the grade, the greater the waste allowance.
  • Secondly, the geometry of laying the lamellas (attachment method).

3 step - Tool and material

In addition to the lining itself, for work you will need:

  1. wooden rail (45x20 mm) or galvanized profile for drywall;
  2. heat-insulating material, vapor barrier, wind barrier (if necessary);
  3. dowel (for a stone structure), screws (for a wooden base);
  4. nails, kleimer, staples (depending on the method of fastening);
  5. jigsaw or hacksaw;
  6. screwdriver, hammer, stapler (depending on the method of attachment);
  7. level, plumb, triangle;
  8. antiseptic, flame retardant, primer, paint or varnish;
  9. perforator;
  10. drill.

Step 4 - Preparing the lining for installation

Primary preparation is reduced to the performance of work in two directions:

The primary processing of the lining includes grinding (for a regular board), sorting the lamellas by color, checking for defects. As well as treatment with a primer, an antiseptic (protects against decay, biological activity) and a fire retardant (creates a microfilm on the wood surface that prevents combustion). If the softwood lining is very resinous, it is necessary to carry out deresining.

How to remove resin from lining?

To remove resinous secretions, you need to apply an acetone solution to the lamella, and then wipe the surface. In the presence of defects, fallen knots, potholes, cracks, it is necessary to treat the lamella with putty.

Preparatory work is carried out before the installation of the lining, because. it is necessary to process all surfaces of the lamellas, including those that will be located on the wrong side. As well as grooves and ridges, access to which will simply be impossible after installation.

Note: the lining must “gain” the temperature of the room where the finishing will be carried out. To do this, it must be placed in the room in advance. This rule does not apply to lining for outdoor work.

Surface treatment means inspecting the wall/ceiling for cracks, fungus, other damage, removing all defects, and dismantling sockets and switches. The wall surface should be treated with protective compounds.

Step 5 - Lining with clapboard

5.1 Installation of the crate under the lining

The installation of the crate begins with the installation of the frame belt.

Notes. At vertical mounting lining, lathing battens are stuffed horizontally. For horizontal installation - vertically. With a diagonal - perpendicular to the direction of laying the lamellas.

How to make a crate for lining?

The first rails are installed around the perimeter of the surface. First, the rails are mounted at the corners of the building, so that there are two rails for each corner. We check the correctness of the installation with a plumb line or level. Then along the perimeter of window and door openings, and only after that intermediate rails are stuffed.

The step of the crate for lining is determined by the thickness of the insulation (if it is planned to install one) or is chosen in any order. Professionals recommend installing intermediate rails at a distance of 400 to 800 mm. Moreover, the higher the room, the smaller the step of the crate should be.

Wooden lining can also be installed on rounded surfaces.

The slats are attached to the surface using hardware or EU brackets for drywall profiles. In the event that the wall is absolutely flat, you can attach it directly to it, i.e. without a crate. And if in some places there is a gap between the wall and the rail, it can be filled with a piece of wooden beam, for a tighter fit of the rail to the wall.

Note. Wooden slats for the crate must be of an acceptable level of humidity. Otherwise, the lining will draw moisture and may be deformed.

It is important to ensure ventilation of the surface under the lining. To do this, the slats are packed with small gaps, as shown in the figure.

The most important thing in the installation of the crate is the constant control of the installation using the building level. The more accurately the crate is set, the easier and smoother the installation of the lining will be.

In addition, experts advise leaving a small gap above and below between the end of the rail and the ceiling, so that it is convenient to nail the lining. The gap from below (from the floor) is easy to provide if you place a piece of bar under the rail.

Note. For wooden houses the presence of a gap of 2-2.5 cm is mandatory. This is due to the fact that the tree shrinks within 3-10 years, depending on the method of construction.

5.2 Insulation of the wall under the lining

Wall decoration with clapboard allows you to lay insulation (hard or soft) in the cells of the crate. The insulation is placed in the cells of the crate. When laying thermal insulation material, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the mats. To do this, it is better to lay two thin layers of material with an offset than one, but thick. From above, a film of a vapor barrier (when installed inside the house) or a wind barrier (when installed outside the house) is superimposed on it.

Universal will be the use of a superdiffusion membrane such as Tyvek (Tyvek). When laying, it is important to ensure that the film overlaps by 100 mm, and also to lay it on the correct side. The marked side (rough) should face the lining. On top of the film, counters are stuffed, on which, in fact, the lining will be attached.

Advice. It is desirable to produce insulation from the outside of the house. This will shift the freezing point into the insulation. And eliminate the possibility of freezing of the wall.

5.3 Fastening the lining

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the lining, you need to decide on the method of fastening. Let's consider all the known ways of fastening the lining to the wall, ceiling and crate in order to choose the most suitable option. It is worth noting that the lining of the bath with a lining will be somewhat different from the finishing of the lining inside or outside the house.

How to fix the lining?

Fastening lining with nails

The nail securely fixes the lining to the crate beam. As you can see in the photo, the nail is driven into the groove.

How to hammer nails into the lining?

Eurolining can be nailed straight, and domestic (ordinary) - only at an angle. Nailing is more risky than other methods because it can split the wood. For the front fastening of the lining, it is better to use galvanized screw nails.

Note. The length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the lamella.

Advice. You can simplify driving a nail into a groove if you use a simple fixture. Namely, from a nail (weaving) you need to saw off a sharp edge. Next, attach it to the carnation to be hammered and apply force through it. Thus, the risk of damage to the front part of the lamella is significantly reduced.

The process of fastening the lining with nails is shown in the diagram.

Fastening lining with kleimers

Note: installation of lining on the walls in the bath requires the use of copper or galvanized clamps.

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws

The method is used for through fastening the lamellas to the crate. Less often with a secret.

Fastening the lining with brackets

Mounting a wooden lining on staples with a stapler is extremely rare. Due to the fact that you need a special stapler (pistol), which is able to break through rather thick and dense wood. Some users recommend driving the staple into the clamp. Professionals disagree on the correctness of such a recommendation.

Combined method

This fastening of the lining allows you to fix the panels securely. The method involves the use of nails or clamps and self-tapping screws to fix the lining from above and below, i.e. where the attachment point will be covered with decorative elements.

What is the best way to fasten the lining?

Knowing how to fix a wooden lining, you can choose the most effective method. At the same time, the final choice may be influenced by:

  • plans for further dismantling of the lining. Fastening using clamps simplifies dismantling;
  • indoor humidity level. With a high constant level of humidity, it is better to use self-tapping screws;
  • aesthetic look. Concealed installation involves the use of clamps or nails and allows you to completely hide the fasteners, and the mounted lining looks more beautiful. outdoor installation lining provides fastening through the board. In this case, it is important that the screws go in one line;
  • lining type. Eurolining can be fastened in any way, it is more difficult to fasten ordinary lining with nails due to the small size of the groove;
  • lining, which is re-attached (previously dismantled, used), is attached to nails. This is due to the fact that during the dismantling process, the grooves may be damaged;
  • fastening speed and lining thickness. Fastening the lining with a stapler allows you to work as quickly as possible, however, the thickness of the lining and the type of wood affect the possibility of its use;
  • installation method - hidden or through. With through-hole installation, you need to drill a hole halfway through the self-tapping screw, and then screw it in until it stops. Again, through installation eliminates the use of rough nails (only finishing), because. ugly streaks of rust may form on the wall.

Installation of lining on the walls begins from the corner of the room, if the mount is horizontal, and from above (if vertical). Particular attention is paid to the installation of the first lamella. After all, she will set the direction for all work. The first board is attached on one side (top or side), then the horizontal (vertical) is installed, then the second end is attached. Only after you have made sure that the board is correctly set and level, you can fix it in the middle.

In order for the next board to fit snugly into the previous one, efforts must be made to it. To do this, you can use a rubber mallet or padding. The padding is a piece of wooden lining. Its use allows you to protect the front of the lamella from accidental hammer blows.

Note. In case of using nails. They are completely clogged into the previous lamella, only after the next lamella is “baited”. This is done in order to avoid warping the board.

It rarely happens that the lamellas cover the surface perfectly. Often trimming of finishing boards is required. Trimming must be done carefully, especially if it will not be covered with decorative elements. The last board is fastened in a through way with the help of self-tapping screws, which can then be closed with putty, a wooden plug or special overlays. Or using finishing nails that have practically no head.

Another point that can be encountered when finishing is the discrepancy between the length of the lining and the height / length of the room. In this case, everything depends on the preferences of the owners, but it is preferable that the ends of the lamella fragments be at different levels.

5.5 Decorative lining

Sheathing with clapboard outside and inside the house ends with decoration. Decor elements will close the flaws in the work and give the walls and ceiling a finished look.

But, so that the finish does not spoil the work, you need to know how to install decorative elements and how to attach them correctly.

The outer or inner corner is closed with a wooden corner. It can be glued (with a small weight of the decorative element) or fixed with finishing nails.

Window and door openings should be trimmed with platbands. They can be joined at an angle of 90 or 45 °.

The place where the wall joins the ceiling or floor must be trimmed with a cornice or plinth and also fixed with hardware.

Reinstall the switches and sockets removed before starting work.

It is worth noting that the lining does not end with the above steps. Next, the surface is needed:

  • clean from dust, apply an additional layer of primer to the lining (individual lamellas were primed with the first layer before starting work);
  • grinding (once again go through the lining with fine sandpaper). The fact is that after priming the surface will acquire a slightly rough texture;
  • varnishing or painting. Finishing quite a long and responsible stage. Here it is important to choose the right coating, and apply it correctly. For example, professionals advise applying the coating in several layers and only after the previous layer has completely dried. A detailed description of how and how to cover the lining.
  • utilization of lining waste. Users advise using lamella trimmings to make frames, curtain rods, furniture cladding, countertops, etc.

Do-it-yourself clapboard sheathing - video guide

Conclusion

The technology for decorating walls with clapboard inside and outside the house, and in the bath (steam room, shower room) is different, this should be taken into account during installation. The choice of mounting and installation method also makes certain adjustments. Good fasteners and wood processing will extend the life of the cladding.

To facade materials for the decoration of a residential building have special requirements. They should be not only beautiful, but also practical. Lining has found wide distribution in suburban construction and meets the required building regulations. Choosing the option to sheathe the house outside with clapboard allows you to avoid large material investments and maintain an attractive appearance of the walls for many years.

Coating Benefits

Clapboard is actively used in suburban construction due to its multiple positive characteristics:

  • differs in the long period of operation and does not change initial qualities;
  • resistant to temperature extremes and is used in any climatic zones;
  • at the same time performs additional thermal insulation of the premises;
  • has an attractive appearance and makes it possible to use all kinds of options;
  • finishing does not require specialized and expensive tools;
  • easy to install.

Exterior decoration of the house with the use of lining helps to transform the structure and hide technological flaws.

Types of panels by raw material

Currently, two types of lining are produced:

  • plastic;
  • wooden.

Let's dwell on each of them in detail.


Plastic lining

From the polyvinyl chloride mass, a plastic lining is obtained by extrusion. It is an excellent material for outdoor decoration. bearing walls, as it is endowed with a number of advantages:

  • saves great view during the entire period of operation;
  • resistant to decay, fading and temperature extremes;
  • does not support combustion;
  • has excellent soundproofing properties;
  • has a high moisture resistance.

Standard material dimensions facilitate finishing work. The variety of colors contributes to the implementation of various design ideas.


Wooden lining

In the manufacture of wooden lining on industrially dried material, the tongue-and-groove joints are sawn through. The material is polished. After careful sorting, the finished board goes on sale.

Despite the many modern materials, wooden lining is still in demand in suburban construction. It has a number of advantages:

  • high soundproofing and heat-insulating qualities;
  • beautiful appearance;
  • safe for people and the environment.

Natural lining promotes air circulation and helps to create a natural microclimate inside the premises. With timely surface treatment protective equipment its use is unlimited.

Wooden materials are divided into two subtypes:

  • standard;
  • eurolining.

Between themselves, they differ in technical characteristics.


Choosing tools and material

For outdoor work, lining made of coniferous wood is used. When launched for sale, it is assigned a grade. For exterior decoration, materials with a moisture content of not more than 12% are used. Applying lining with higher humidity, in the process of natural shrinkage, numerous microcracks appear on its surface, often there is a change in the appearance of the board and its distortion.

Particular attention must be paid to the surface of the board. It should be smooth, with a minimum number of knots. The presence of fungal lesions, wormholes and cracks is also unacceptable.

For finishing work you will need:

  • saw;
  • electric drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • level.

Installation of lining when finishing load-bearing walls requires a minimum set of tools, so finishing work can be easily done by hand.

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the facade

Decorative trim is often combined with insulation. At the same time, clapboard cladding outside the house consists of the following steps:

  • vapor barrier device;
  • frame formation;
  • thermal insulation of walls;
  • installation of a waterproofing layer;
  • decorative wall decoration.

Completing all of the above steps will help you get not only an outwardly attractive facade, but also a warm house.


Frame installation

For the manufacture of a frame for lining, wooden bars of small thickness are most often used. Depending on the material of the walls, they are fixed with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. The installation of the crate is carried out strictly according to the level: all external bars are laid in the same plane.

If the wall is uneven, has large drops and protrusions, the outer elements of the frame are leveled using plywood, timber or any other material substrates.

Installation of the crate begins with the installation of corner elements, then put the internal bars. The distance between the elements of the crate depends on the dimensions of the thermal insulation material.

Let's take care of the insulation

As vapor barrier materials, polyethylene or polypropylene films, as well as membranes, are used. The vapor barrier material is stretched, moving up the wall and well fixed with a stapler or thin slats. The vapor barrier material must be laid in a continuous layer without gaps and gaps.

Installation of thermal insulation

The insulation is laid in dense rows between the bars. To prevent the formation of seams and reliably protect the house from drafts, multilayer insulation is used. In this case, the heat-insulating material is laid in several layers in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of waterproofing

Waterproofing materials let the steam out, protect the insulation from waterlogging and retain its thermal insulation qualities. As a waterproofing agent, you can use:

  • diffusion membranes;
  • polyethylene films;
  • polyvinyl chloride films.

They are laid on top of the insulation with an overlap and fixed on wooden frame stapler.

Installing the frame under the finishing sheathing

An additional frame is mounted on top of the waterproofing layer, on which the lining is attached. The frame completely duplicates the lower base and is assembled from wooden bars of the same dimensions.

Finishing the outer layer by lining

For the exterior cladding of the house, horizontal or vertical methods of laying the lining are used. The choice of one or another option is not fundamental and depends only on personal preferences. The vertical method visually increases the size and is perfect for finishing. small houses. When using a narrow lining to improve perception, it is preferable to lay it horizontally.

Installation of lining begins from any corner of the house. It is set according to the level and attached to the laths of the crate along the entire height. Cleimers or screws are used as fasteners.

When using self-tapping screws as fasteners, small holes are drilled in the board with a thin drill, and only after that the self-tapping screw is screwed. This operation will avoid cracking the material.

When fastening the lining with the help of kleimers, they are installed in the groove and fixed to the crate with the help of small nails. Work is carried out carefully, trying not to damage the surface of the board. After installing each element, the horizons are checked with a level. Next, the next element is installed in the groove of the first board and fixed to the crate. This is how the lining is installed around the entire perimeter of the house.

When mounting between the boards, small gaps of 1-2 mm are left. With this fastening, the material expands freely under the influence of rain and moisture and retains its original appearance for a long time.

Laying the lining horizontally, work starts from the bottom and moves up in even rows. The lining is laid in the same way as with the vertical method. The groove of the board is placed up.

To avoid a large number of joints when decorating a large house, the lining can be laid in a herringbone pattern. With this option, the joints are evenly distributed along the wall and do not catch the eye.

After finishing, the unsightly corners of the house are decorated with plastic corners. Wooden lining is treated with protective equipment . This processing will help:

  • protect the lining from cracks, moisture and the spread of insects;
  • extend the life of the surface;
  • transform the look of your home.

The use of high-quality wooden or artificial lining for the facade of the house facilitates the implementation installation work with your own hands and allows you to extend the life of the bearing walls. The result will please the eye for many years.

Building a house made of wood is a profitable solution for many reasons, but this material needs to be protected from destructive influences. natural factors. One solution is sheathing. wooden house clapboard outside: this type of cladding will increase the durability of the house, while it will not affect the environmental friendliness of the building. The lining can have any color, so the sheathing will preserve the aesthetic appearance of the building.

What are the advantages of wall paneling for house cladding

The lining is a durable smooth panel made of wood or plastic, the sides are equipped with a system of spikes and protrusions that allow for a strong waterproof mount. Sheathing with clapboard on the outside of a wooden house will solve several problems at once: it not only protects the wood, but also improves some important characteristics of the structure. Sheathe wooden house clapboard will be beneficial for several reasons:

  • This is a fairly durable material, if you take care of its protection from decay and insects. After treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics, the lining can last for many years, and if necessary, damaged elements will not be difficult to replace.
  • It improves the thermal and sound insulation qualities of the house. In combination with modern insulation, this material will create a strong and durable protection against cold and street noise.
  • The lining looks beautiful, and it will allow you to save all the aesthetic advantages of a wooden house. Natural material has a unique pattern that will look great.

How to choose the right material for exterior cladding

Sheathing a wooden house with clapboard has become a widespread option, but it is important to choose the right material, which will become a truly reliable solution. Its production is carried out by domestic and foreign manufacturers, the quality of imported products is usually slightly higher. The lining is divided into several classes depending on the quality of the wood; when choosing, you can focus on a few basic rules:

  1. The moisture content of wood should not exceed 15%. Otherwise, very soon, as a result of shrinkage, cracks will appear in the lining, which will significantly reduce its effectiveness.
  2. Boards should not be affected by the fungus, they do not have traces of wormholes. The owner of the house needs to check the quality of the material before buying, otherwise he will have to spend money on home repairs and a new purchase.
  3. The material must not have knots. Their presence is the most important negative factor that reduces the class of the material. Sheathing with eurolining of a wooden house increases the overall durability of the structure, so it is better not to save on the quality of the finish.

The choice on the market is quite wide: you can pick up lining from various tree species, but it is better to give preference to coniferous forests. The wood will be denser, and the high resin content allows it to successfully resist decay. Houses lined with wooden clapboard from the outside, they will look very nice if you choose the right material.

Cladding installation technology

The technology of lining a wooden house with clapboard is the creation of a multi-layer ventilated facade: this finish combines insulation and protection from destructive factors. You will need to purchase insulation (usually mineral wool is used for a wooden house), as well as all auxiliary materials to create a frame and a waterproofing layer. How to sheathe a wooden house with clapboard?

The walls need pre-preparation. Before lining, they must be treated with an antiseptic, as well as flame retardants to protect against fire, in addition, log house it is necessary to caulk. When the walls are ready, it will be possible to clad the house:
  • A vertical frame made of thin timber is stuffed onto the walls, the correctness of its location is checked by a plumb line. The distance between the frame elements should be slightly less than the width of the insulation, this will allow it to be tightly fixed so that there are no gaps.
  • A waterproofing film is installed on the heat-insulating layer. It is better to purchase a modern membrane that will allow water vapor to pass from the house to the outside, but retain moisture from the outside.
  • A second layer of sheathing is nailed over the frame, which will create a ventilation gap. It will provide effective ventilation of the insulation.
  • We sheathe a wooden house with clapboard: the boards are cut to length, after which they begin to be installed from the bottom up. The first board is positioned so that the spike is at the top and the groove is at the bottom. The lining can be attached to the frame with nails, screws or other fasteners.

Each next board is placed in the groove of the previous one, all walls are faced in the same way. The boards are fixed in the corners, after which they can be treated with antiseptic impregnation and painted.

The cladding will take on a neat appearance, and it will be reliably protected from various damaging factors. It is no coincidence that this material has become one of the most popular options; lining with clapboard is a beautiful and reliable solution that is ideal for a wooden house.

Building a house is a multi-stage process, each of which is extremely important, including exterior finish. It not only warms the house, but also gives it its own original look, which will long years calling card of your family nest. Sheathing a house with clapboard on the outside attracts many homeowners with a number of advantages. The most important thing, perhaps, is the appearance. No matter how far we break away from our roots, no matter how progress develops in construction and in the creation of various new materials, wood will always take its place in the heart of a Russian person. Therefore, many homeowners want to sheathe the house with clapboard, since such sheathing will not only give it charm and attractiveness, but can also be easily installed by non-specialists at minimal cost.

Sheathing the house with clapboard on the outside allows you to make the appearance of the house more attractive.

Despite the fact that wood is considered a short-lived material, in fact, this has not been the case for a long time. Any wood can be impregnated with various modern formulations, which will prevent its destruction under the influence of fungi, bacteria, insects and other natural factors. Wood has excellent thermal insulation properties. In addition, wood also perfectly absorbs sounds and is suitable for houses located near highways and other sources of noise.

Choosing tools and material for sheathing

For sheathing a house with clapboard, you will need the following tools: a saw, an electric drill, a screwdriver (if you fasten it with self-tapping screws), a hammer, a marker, a level, pliers.

Any important work should be divided into several steps. The main steps in the installation of lining from lining:

  • selection of tools and materials;
  • preparation of walls and fastening of the crate;
  • heat and waterproofing (if necessary);
  • fastening boards lining.

Before work, you need to prepare a number of tools and materials:

  • high-quality wooden beam with a section of 30x60 mm or more;
  • saw;
  • electric drill;
  • screwdriver (if you fasten it with self-tapping screws);
  • a hammer;
  • marker;
  • level;
  • pliers.

But the main material that needs to be chosen correctly is the sheathing material itself. Finishing a house with clapboard begins with her choice. All lining is divided into classes that determine its external and working qualities. The higher the class of the material, the fewer knots in it and the better its surface is finished. As for the other qualities, due to the fact that drying and other processing all types of lining are approximately the same, then the quality of the material almost does not play a role. The class determines, first of all, the type of the tree and the number of defects.

The classes of lining determine its external and working qualities.

The most important requirement for lining is the quality of its drying, since only well-dried wood will not undergo deformation over time. Raw wood will certainly begin to change its dimensions, and soon the entire surface of the skin will be a deplorable sight in the form of numerous cracks and crevices. It will take a lot of time to remove the deformed elements and reinstall others in their place. The norm of humidity for lining used for exterior cladding is 12%.

Recently, in addition to dividing by class, lining is divided into ordinary and eurolining. The difference lies in the fact that the humidity of the latter is much lower than usual, and the surface is processed so carefully that it is ideal geometric figures with convenient cutouts and grooves. Of course, such material will cost more than usual, but in this case it is worth considering that repairs for eurolining will be needed much later than for ordinary material.

Wall preparation and framing

Before installing the crate on the walls, it is necessary to prepare the walls of the house for installation. To do this, the walls are cleaned of all irregularities, gaps are covered up, all debris is cleaned off, and if the house is wooden, then all rotten and deformed structural elements are removed. The wall should be as smooth as possible, clean and without the slightest trace of rot or mold.

The next step is to make markings on the walls, along the lines of which the frame of the crate will be attached. It is necessary to carefully approach this work, since the uneven surface of the frame will lead, in the future, to a lot of problems with the skin.

Since in the vast majority of cases the lining of the skin is located horizontally, the bars must be installed vertically. With regard to the beams, the same high quality requirements are imposed as for the lining. It should be well dried and not have significant flaws. The beams are fastened at a distance of about one meter, it can be less (up to half a meter), but it is no longer recommended, since a beam of any drying quality still slightly deforms over time, and the longer it is, the higher the risk that this deformation will affect the skin , the boards can simply pop out of the mounts. Using a level, carefully check the evenness of the surface of the resulting frame.

If you decide to insulate the house, then it is at this stage that the thermal insulation between the bars is installed and fastened. The material for this is different. It can be mineral wool, and polystyrene, and other modern insulating building materials. You choose. But we still advise you not to save on this stage, since thermal protection can not only create comfortable housing for you, but also save a lot of money on heating.

Installation of lining from lining

Fastening lining boards can be of two types: using simple nails and kleimers. The option of nailing the lining boards directly to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws also has the right to exist, especially in this case the fastening is as strong as possible, but still, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not the best design solution.

Schemes for fastening the planks of the lining.

If you decide to fasten the boards with nails or self-tapping screws, then for this they are driven into its crest, as shown in the figure. In this case, the first board is attached to the beam, and the next one is inserted with its lower end into the groove of the previous one and through its comb. Installation starts from the bottom, from the base to the roof.

The second common method of fastening is mounting with clamps. This small fastener is made of tin or stainless steel and fastens the boards in a hidden way, even over time, when the nails begin to show their hats, the kleimers continue to carry out their service completely invisibly. As shown in the figure, the kleimer is attached to the wall with a nail, and securely holds the board with its groove. At the same time, the boards themselves remain completely intact and can even be reused after dismantling the skin.

Installation must begin from the bottom, carefully making sure with the help of a level that the installation is even. The first board is fastened with a spike up, on which the next board is put on. The choice of mounting boards is up to you, but the best option there will be the use of clamps. The boards must fit into the grooves accurately and tightly.

If the length of the facade is longer than that of the boards, then you will have to choose how to install and dock the boards together. It is better if the joints form a "herringbone" when they do not pass strictly vertically, but in a checkerboard pattern. If the joints are vertical, then they can be further covered with the help of special decorative strips.

After reviewing the information on how to sheathe a house, you can easily do it yourself, there are no particular difficulties in this.

Finally, remember a couple more tips.

Before starting work, leave all the wood for a day, in the place where the installation will take place, so that the tree gets used to the existing temperature and humidity.

We also recommend installing vapor and waterproofing between the insulation and the sheathing material. This will be a good barrier to moisture and keep the wood from rotting. And remember that the film is placed with its smooth side to the insulation, and the rough side to the skin.