We lay tiles in the bathroom with our own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Repair in the bathroom is rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if it has already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried and tested tiler in mind and a certain amount (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively even, everything should do without much difficulty. But just before laying the tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.

It starts, as usual, with the choice of tiles. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So let's check:

From experience it is worth saying that ideal parameters extremely difficult to find. If you like it externally, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you'll be tired of running around the shops. What you should not do is to take a tile “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it. Take only what you hold in your hands.

What is the tile on?

Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do this, but it will be more difficult to work. For more comfortable work, use ready-made compositions, they are also called “tile glue” for the fact that the composition contains adhesive components, therefore it is sometimes said that tiles are “glued” to the walls. Compositions are of two types:

• in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
• in bags - dry mixes that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixes. If necessary, they can correct an imperfect wall by making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain plasticity longer, which allows you to make adjustments some more time later. They work with mastic on an ideal wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.

When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions in which there are additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant, it will come in handy if you put it in an unheated room or on the street. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will not allow fungi and mold to develop, which is in demand in wet rooms.

Preparatory work

Before laying the tiles on the wall, a number of preparatory activities are carried out. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is highly undesirable to skip it: not every master, not to mention beginners, can normally lay tiles on uneven unprepared walls.

Leveling the surface

First of all, the old coating is removed from the walls and what can fall off. If there is greasy spots, they are removed, or simply cut down part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden mallet, determining by the sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. Therefore, you cover all such places yourself.

A flat bar is applied to the cleaned base and it is estimated how smooth or curved the walls are. If the surface of the wall is strongly convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to the level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively even, only too large indents are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or pits) that are more than 5 mm. The protrusions need to be cut off, the pits should be filled with a plaster mixture, the cracks should be widened, moistened and also covered with plaster.

We prime

It is desirable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. Best suited for these purposes is "Betonokontakt" or another composition with similar characteristics. It penetrates a sufficiently large thickness deep into the wall, binding all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, tile adhesive is very well “molded” to it.

How to start

There are several possible starting points. If it’s quite simple, you can lay out the first row immediately from the corner, I’m guided along the floor line. But the first row will become even and without problems only if the floor is perfectly flat, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will cut the tiles to somehow get vertical seams. As a result of these trimmings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall by finding the "start" points.

Wall marking

If you don't really care about the small pieces of tile that you have to put in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want the whole tile to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

If it turned out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try to expand from the seam, and vice versa. Should come out better.

With the placement of tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In a bathroom, this is often the edge of an installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, position (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. Thus, you will find how you will need to cut the tiles of the upper and lower rows.

Vertically, you can arrange in another way: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be cut. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.

In any case, when calculating how to lay the tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. It usually serves as a starting point. This is where the tiling begins.

start line

According to the results of the layout, you have a line where the first row ends. Here at this height they nail a flat bar. Leaning a tile on it, they put up the starting row, and all subsequent ones on it. The first row is installed last, in which the tile will have to be cut.

Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support bar, but a flat dry bar can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). In order for laying tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten it often enough: so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check the horizontal position of its installation. Even the slightest deviation should not be.

How to tile on a wall

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

A few points about the whole process. First, in the marked places on the installed plank, the extreme whole tiles (those that do not need to be cut) are glued. When laying out, you marked their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked by a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the tile geometry is perfect, you can also check the verticality / horizontality at the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, with the help of this bar, they control whether each next tile is correctly set.

Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology, after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.

The thickness of the adhesive on the wall

For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, there may be questions about how thick a layer of glue is needed. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are perfect, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively even, the "starting" layer can be 3-4 mm. Further, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.

There are several masonry techniques ceramic tiles. Not always glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some masters apply the composition only to the wall, others only to the tile, someone recommends dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for beginner tilers when the solution is both on the wall and on the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Tile adhesive manufacturers advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly even base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

With another technique, the consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But it is definitely worth listening to the prescribed dimensions of the spatula teeth.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are laid. Overlays are attached to the platform, along which the cutter moves. The cutting torch moves with the help of the handle, ripping up a strong covering. On the same handle, a stop is usually installed, with which the tile is broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. In addition, it will not work to make a perfectly even cut, but it will go in an emergency.

If necessary, round holes cut with a crown suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, so that there is as little dust as possible, the place of work is constantly watered. The result is a perfect hole, everything looks decent.

If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it on a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disc or rod (for some firms, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.

If at the same time the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be leveled a little with a file or sandpaper fixed on a bar.

Corner decoration

If the tile is laid evenly, the inner corners do not cause problems. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they do not interfere or break off the protruding parts. In general, they are joined neatly in the corners, and the seam is finally formed using grout.

There are also profiles for internal corners. They are selected to match the grout, installed in a corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, tiles are supported on them. It turns out a finished corner seam.

Outer corners are more difficult. If you just join the tiles by overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To properly form the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45 °.

This can be done on a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work as a grinder. The first cut, approximately at the desired angle, is made with a smooth diamond disc. It should not have slots and holes, the spraying should also be even.

It turns out not very smoothly, and the outer edge has a rather large thickness. But this is only preliminary processing. We bring the cut to the required parameters sanding attachment with the same disk. See the video for more details.

If you don’t want to mess around with such a pruning, there is another possibility - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.

Another video on how you can arrange adjunctions and seams when laying tiles.

To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.

When finishing kitchen apron ceramic tile technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The place of "start" is determined by the height of the countertop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Fasten the bar at the required level, align it exactly to the horizon, and you can start.

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on a work wall. If this is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

If it is laid out from a small tile, the undercuts may not be very conspicuous. If you want everything to be symmetrical, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.

A kitchen with tiles is so common that when the interior of the kitchen does not include tiles, at first it seems that something is missing. However, although tile is used everywhere, not everyone knows how to lay the tile correctly, since there are many subtleties and features in this matter.

How to lay tiles: subtleties and features

Ceramic tiles are used for different surfaces. But, when performing general tiling, you need to remember that this process is divided into separate operations and there is nothing strange in this.

• Work area - a space with a stove, sink, refrigerator and other household appliances;
• Zone "apron" - stands out from the general design in color;
• Floor zone - she is assigned the role of a kind of zone separator;
• Remaining space.

How to designate zones when laying tiles

Following the rules described above, separate sections of the room are trimmed with different tiles. In the picture below, you can see an example of dividing a room into zones.

As shown in the photo, each zone is finished with its own type of tile. But, you can delimit zones using tiles of the same color, simply laying it in a different way. You can see this way of dividing zones in the picture below.

How to choose a tile?

This is an important point, because especially important indicators of comfort and durability depend on the choice of tiles. The tile itself has many different characteristics. There are compacted, reinforced and more wear-resistant models. A more durable tile, most often, is covered with a floor surface.

Very important nuance is the surface of such a tile. For laying on the floor, it is better to use tiles with a matte surface. It is not as slippery and this minimizes the chance of slipping and getting injured. In addition, such tiles are more water resistant and more resistant to the damaging effects of detergents.

The size of the tile is also very important. A large tile will not look good in a small room.
For this reason, according to expert advice, for a small room it is better to take tiles 15 by 15 cm or even use mosaics. Of course, the laying process in this case will take longer, however, the final result will be more harmonious.

About tile installation technology

One of the most important points is to prepare the surface for the tile. The base must be dry and even. The walls are leveled with plaster or drywall (if very crooked). Floors are prepared with self-leveling compounds.
The leveling is followed by the priming process. After the soil has dried, you can apply tile adhesive to the surface and proceed directly to laying the tile. This is done like this:

• 1. The adhesive is applied to the surface and leveled with a notched trowel. Applying the adhesive is done on a small area to lay the tiles before the adhesive sets;
• 2. The tile is placed on a layer of adhesive and leveled using a level and plumb line. If there is a need, then correct location tiles are achieved by tapping on it, simultaneously with the movement. To ensure the same gaps between the tiles, use special crosses inserted between the tiles;
• 3. After the glue has dried, the seams are sealed with grout.

An example of a properly laid tile in the photo below.

How to put tiles on a wall

Let's say you decide to tile your bathroom or kitchen but don't know how to tile the wall. It's okay, after reading what is written below, you will learn everything you need to perform this operation.

The first step is to decide on the required materials. To lay tiles on the walls, you need the following materials:

• Primer. It is applied with a roller or brush, before laying the tiles. The construction material used to treat poorly absorbent, porous or wooden surfaces, to create a special layer on the base. Improves the adhesion of the tile to the base
• Additive. This component is mixed with glue to enhance its characteristics such as stickiness and plasticity. With its help, compensate for the unevenness of the base.
• Putty. She performs the alignment of the walls. It is a dry substance miscible with water.
• Grout for seams. Serves to fill the space between the tiles. Apply this material with a soft rubber spatula.
• Tile adhesive. Often sold ready-made, packaged in buckets. It is applied with a special corrugated spatula.

Preparatory work for the base for laying tiles on the walls

One way or another, but the surface must be flat, durable and dry.

• 1. For a porous base, use a primer.
• 2. If the base is smooth, it should be pricked or scratched with a grinder, and then primed.
• 3. If the surface of the base has irregularities or large cracks, they must be leveled with putty.

Marking for laying

• 1. Using a level and a marking cord, you need to draw a horizontal strip that corresponds to one tile in height from the floor level.
• 2. Now this line should be corrected in such a way that the top row of tiles does not have to be cut (seams are taken into account in the calculation). Trial masonry will help you adjust the dimensions. If the floor surface is at an angle to the horizon, then the bottom row tiles are cut in accordance with this angle.
• 3. Vertical lines are drawn with a plumb line.

Laying tiles on the walls

• 1. Using a trowel, glue is applied over a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base (approximately 0.5 m). Next, the adhesive is leveled with a notched trowel.
• 2. Now you need to glue the first piece of tile along the rail. Following it, the first horizontal row of tiles is glued, after which the second, and so on until the entire wall is laid out.
• 3. You should also remember about plastic crosses in order to maintain the same distance between the tiles. During operation, the surface of the tile should be cleaned of excess glue.
• 4. Tiles must be laid flat. If it protrudes, then it should be trimmed with a rubber mallet and a wooden block. When using a wooden block, it must be laid on top of several tiles at once.
• 5. Continue each row of tiles, making sure they are horizontal and vertical.
• 6. Facing ends with laying the missing pieces below, and for this it is not necessary to use a ruler or rail. Removal of plastic crosses must be done before the glue hardens.

Seam sealing

1. A day after laying the tiles, you should start applying the grout. It is applied over the seams with a rubber spatula.
2. The remains of grout and glue from the tiles are removed with a damp sponge and cloth.

Advice
For laying tiles in the bathroom, use a special, waterproof grout.

Grout for tiles: which is better

Even perfectly laid tiles look unfinished if no grout was used at the end of the work. What is the best grout, and by what criteria should I choose it at all? It is these questions that we will try to elucidate further.

The composition of the grout can be cement and epoxy.

cement grout

This is the simplest option, which does not require high skill in application and preparation, but, nevertheless, looks great. Cement grout consists of fine cement, plasticizers, various additives and pigments. This type of grout is mixed with water before use, and then applied to the seams.

The consistency of cement grout resembles putty, therefore, it is easy to use.
Depending on the composition and purpose, cement grout can be:

• for narrow seams (up to 5 mm)
• for wide seams (more than 5 mm).

In grouts of the second type, an obligatory additional component is used - sand. Sand will prevent cracking of the cement composition and prevent it from crumbling. At the same time, the size of the grains of sand varies depending on the thickness of the seam.
The cement grout is packed as follows:

• ready-made composition (in a bucket);
• dry powder (in a bag).

Ready grout can be applied instantly.

Ready cement grout is sold in different portions.
As for dry grout, before starting work, it must be diluted with water to the desired state. Dry mix is ​​more convenient if the amount of work is small, since you can make exactly as much mix as you need. But you need to keep it dry.
Advantages of cement grout:

• convenient to use;
• universal;
• has a wide selection of shades;
• durable;
• cheap.

• subject to pollution;
• destroyed by household chemicals.

Epoxy grout

Used in rooms with high humidity.

Epoxy grout has a rather viscous consistency. For this reason, its application requires accuracy and a professional approach.
Any epoxy grout contains the following components:

• epoxy resin, which contains special additives and fillers;
• hardener.

To obtain a working mixture, these components are mixed (when purchased, they are packed in different containers). As a result, a fairly dense, but elastic mass is obtained. Working with this mass is not an easy task, since the composition has an increased viscosity, for this reason even professionals work with it for a long and tiring time. But, after the work is completed, a significant plus awaits you: the resulting seams will retain their appearance at least 40 years old. This is the main reason why professionals give the highest rating to this grout.

Epoxy grout can be diluted with shiny components to improve the visual effect.
Advantages of epoxy grout:

• durable;
• durable;
• resistant to dirt, fungi and mold;
• resistant to chemicals and cleaning agents;
• waterproof;
• has a high decorative potential.

• expensive;
• difficult to operate.

As a grout, sometimes silicone sealant is used. But it is used for other purposes - to isolate the cladding and other materials, for example, in the place where the tiled cladding borders the bathroom, sink or toilet. Use silicone sealant to completely fill the joints - this is expensive and does not provide the opportunities that grouting opens up.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom

What is required for a bathroom renovation? Change the plumbing, the bathtub, the sink... but the main thing is to lay the tiles. Decided to do the renovation yourself? A completely rational and economical solution. But before you get started, make sure you know everything about how to properly tile your bathroom.

Before starting the direct laying of tiles in the bathroom, you should do the following preparatory work:

• To begin with, there should be no traces of the old finish on the walls. This affects how firmly the tile will stick to the base.
• After that, you need to check the curvature of the walls with a level (length not less than a meter). If the wall slopes more than 4-5 mm, it must be leveled with plaster.
• Before plastering the wall, a primer is applied to its surface (and if not plastered, then too). Thanks to the primer, the materials applied to the wall will hold better.

After plastering the walls, you need to allow them to dry completely before laying on top of the tiles. This process may take two weeks. If you lay the tiles on wet plaster, then in the future you cannot avoid the fact that the tiles will simply peel off.

How are bathroom tiles laid?

For laying tiles use tile adhesive.
It is a dry powder, which is diluted with water according to the instructions and mixed with an electric drill with a special nozzle. As a result, you should get a mass that does not flow along the wall and does not fall off.

Preparatory work:

• A control horizontal line is drawn along the wall, along which the tiles are laid. The line is laid using a level, exactly with the horizon line, so that the masonry is straight and even.
• Laying tiles in the bathroom begins on top of the bath if it is located close to the wall. And if not, then you should start laying the tiles from the second row. Therefore, the horizontal line must be drawn considering one row of tiles and a seam.
• Along the line, ideally, stoppers should be fixed to protect the tile from moving down.

Tiling laying:

• If the walls are even, the adhesive is applied over them. Use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive on the wall. A tile is laid on top, but it is not pressed down excessively, in order to avoid damage.
• The distance between the tiles should not exceed a couple of millimeters. To achieve this, they use special "crosses".
• Pay attention to the fact that the tiles may not be equal pieces. It happens that the difference reaches a millimeter.
• For this reason, after you have laid a row of tiles, check to see if the row line has moved. If it has moved, then you need to fix it due to the width of the seam.

Naturally, not all tiles fit intact. For example, for accurate and accurate laying of tiles in the corners, it will need to be cut. This operation is performed with a tile cutter.

Grouting

After finishing laying, you need to clean the surface of the tile from adhesive residue. If the glue remains in the seams, they will not be attractive. After removing the glue, you can start grouting.

This is done with a special mixture, which is called so - tile grout (in the common people - fugue). It is used for waterproofing and decoration. Professionals use a rubber spatula to apply the grout, and the seams are cleaned with a cable (6-7 mm in diameter), a screw head or something else, after which a neat notch will remain in the seam.
After the tile has dried, it should be wiped with a dry sponge, then rinsed with water, but so that the seams do not soften.

How to properly tile. Video lesson

If, despite a lot of printed information, it is still not entirely clear to you how to lay the tiles correctly, the video clip should dot the “and” to bring final clarity to this process. So, what will be described in this story?

To begin with, immediately before the laying process, the base preparation process follows. Here's what happens during it:

1. cleaning the base from the old finish;
2. removing dust and checking the evenness of the base;
3. wall alignment;
4. a two-week break to dry the base;
5. applying a moisture-resistant primer coating to the base.

After the preparatory work is over, you can go directly to the process shown in the video, namely the laying of tiles. Here's what it includes:

1. First of all, a row of tiles is laid out at the bottom, but not glued. This is necessary to develop the correct laying scheme. For example, 4 cm remains from the ceiling to the last row. It is much easier to take this into account from below than to cut pieces to the ceiling.
2. After that, we put marks on the wall corresponding to the first and last slabs of the row.
3. Now mark the vertical row with a level.
4. When laying tiles, the evenness of the rows is constantly controlled by the spirit level. If there are irregularities, they must be immediately eliminated.
5. During laying, the thickness of the seam is regulated by plastic crosses.
6. Tile adhesive is applied to the wall, not the tiles. The adhesive must be applied evenly.
7. The tile should be pressed down as firmly as possible, but so as not to damage it.
8. And at the last stage, grouting is carried out.

Despite the complexity, and the required care in the process of laying tiles, everyone can do it. By carefully studying the process, you will do an excellent job with this job!

Facing with ceramic tiles today has become a necessary, albeit quite expensive element of interior design. Wherein wall tiling technology It is quite simple and allows a non-professional to take on the job. If you follow tile laying rules, you can do the work yourself so that its result is pleasing to the eye. It is only important not to rush, perform all actions carefully and constantly monitor the accuracy of laying.

Before how to lay tiles on a wall yourself, without using the services of masters, you need to get acquainted with the main stages.

What is this article about

Surface preparation

Before how to glue tiles on the wall, it is necessary to prepare its surface. Often, it is first necessary to dismantle the plumbing equipment, since it will interfere with the quality laying wall tiles and may be damaged in the course of work. You will probably also have to remove the old tile. When it breaks off, dust and sharp small fragments will scatter, so you should wear safety glasses and gloves.

Laying tiles on the wall will not cause difficulties only under the condition of high-quality surface preparation. Even small irregularities can significantly complicate installation. DIY tiles and worsen its appearance, therefore, maximum attention should be paid to checking and eliminating the detected shortcomings.

The technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall provides that irregularities should not exceed 2-3 mm per meter of surface. If old plaster loose and crumbling, it will have to be replaced. Lay tiles on the wall covered with fragile plaster is impossible, as it can fall off along with the base. Check the verticality of the walls. If the slope of one of them exceeds a few millimeters, then on the adjacent exactly lay ceramic tiles would be very difficult or even impossible. If the walls have such defects, it is necessary to eliminate them with plaster. It is applied in a layer of no more than 2 cm. If this is not enough, the second layer can be applied only after the first has completely hardened.

Facing wooden walls possible after giving them additional rigidity. To do this, use a metal mesh. If the surface of the walls is too smooth, small notches are made with a hammer and chisel to improve the adhesion of the adhesive to it. You can also fix a special grid on the wall, which ensures reliable adhesion of the tile. The prepared surface is primed and covered with mastic to improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the base.

Material selection

Before buying tiles, you should measure the walls. Laying tiles on the wall almost always requires trimming the extreme rows vertically and horizontally. It is better if you have to cut wide enough strips, since narrow ones are much more difficult to chip off. It is often advised to “hide” the cropped row in the far corners, behind cabinets and other equipment. However, modern wall tiling technology has another solution to this problem: using trims.

Trim is a plastic or metal profile into which the last row of tiles is inserted. The rear part of the profile is pressed against the wall, and the narrow front and, possibly, the side remain in sight. Trim not only hides small defects, but is also able to decorate the wall itself. Therefore, it is possible to border them not only with cut tiles, but also with all corners of the room, as well as niches and masonry edges, if only part of the wall is to be finished. It is better to close the joint with the ceiling with a ceiling plinth, since it will be difficult to insert the top row into the trim.

When choosing a tile, consider the conditions in which it will be used. Wall tiles are not designed for heavy loads; they cannot be glued to the floor. To do this, use other, more durable and non-slippery tiles. Glue tiles can be used outdoors, both on the walls and on the floor. For this, ceramics with low porosity, which slightly absorb water, are used. Pay attention to the variety. The tile of the highest, first grade is marked with a red marking. Blue marking means that defective, crooked tiles may come across in the package. If the marking is green, there may be more. High-quality masonry will not work out of them.

There are different how to lay tiles on walls, such as chess, diagonal, run-up and others. Chess does not present any difficulty, in this case they simply alternate tiles different colors. When laying diagonally, you will need to cut a lot of tiles; without a tile cutter, this is difficult to do. You will also have to cut a little more tiles when gluing in a run - in this case, each next row is shifted by half a tile relative to the previous one, like brickwork.

However, these ways to diversify wall cladding recede before the wealth of choice of tile collections available on the market. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles allows you to decorate the room due to the presence in most of them of decorative elements - panels and borders. Borders, or friezes, usually have a standard width but vary in height. Having chosen a collection and a cladding scheme to your taste, calculate the required amount of tiles, taking into account inserts in the form of panels and borders. Distance between tiles when laying should be 2-4 mm. In addition, 5-10% is added for possible cut losses.

In addition to the tile itself, for wall tiling you will need glue, putty or sealant for grouting and plastic crosses for styling. Glue ceramic tiles on the wall it is possible both on ordinary cement mortar and on glue such as "liquid nails". However, in terms of value for money the best choice- special tile adhesive.

Preparing for laying tiles

main stage tiling- it's actually a sticker decorative tiles. First of all, you need to make a plan so that you know exactly how put tiles on the walls where to place the decor elements that will have to be cut. Without this, it is not worth starting work.

How to lay tiles on walls? Work should start from the bottom. From that how to lay tiles the bottom row, the quality of the lining of the entire wall depends. Before how to tile on a wall, it is necessary to carefully, according to the level, outline the horizontal along which the first row will be laid.

Professionals recommend starting laying tiles with an indent from the floor to a height of 30-40 cm. In this case, it is easier to ensure the horizontality of the first row, which is laid on a rail fixed to the wall. The bottom row in this case fits last. If necessary, the tiles in it are cut. Trim cannot be used here, but if necessary, the junction of the wall and floor can be covered with a plinth.

Laying ceramic tiles on the wall or the floor is made using a special comb trowel. A rubber spatula with teeth is used to apply the grout. For splitting tiles, it is good to have a tile cutter. If it is not there, you can cut the ceramics from the wrong side with a grinder. Sometimes you need to cut a narrow strip or make a small cut in the tile. In this case, the glaze is cut with a glass cutter and, slowly, small pieces of ceramics are chipped off with pliers, and then the edge is cleaned with emery.

Wall covering

To dilute the glue, pour it into the water in small portions, stirring until the consistency of thick sour cream. Glue should be well smeared on the tile, but not drain from it. How to properly tile? Different masters answer this question in different ways. Some people apply glue to a small part of the wall. However, by doing do-it-yourself wall tiling and without sufficient experience, it can be difficult to determine what area should be smeared. Therefore, we advise you to apply glue to the tiles.

The work is done with a comb trowel. Having leveled the glue with the side of the spatula, serrated grooves are applied. To glue the tiles, it is tightly, but not very strongly pressed against the wall. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the glue is distributed over the entire surface, without squeezing out. Having thus fixed two tiles, insert a cross and align them with it. Crosses must be inserted so that during thermal expansion there is no stress that can lead to peeling and cracking of the tile.

The first set row is checked by level. When a marriage is found, it is immediately corrected. After making sure that it is horizontal, they pull the nylon thread for the second row and lay it out in the same way. Lay tiles on the wall more convenient in rows. You should not strive to veneer the entire wall at once. Before the glue dries completely, it is necessary to remove the crosses from the lower rows with an awl, clean the surface of the tile and the seams between the tiles. Before gluing the first tile in the next row, do not forget to check the previous one for horizontality.

Installation of tiles using trim has only one feature: it will be necessary to lay the extreme (cut) tile into it before sticking the adjacent one. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully check the correctness of the cutting and only after that stick the tile.

After completion of laying, the glue should dry within a day. After that, the joints are filled with grout using a rubber spatula. Excess is removed with a soft cloth. The grout should dry for another day.

Laying tiles on the floor

How to lay tiles correctly on the floor? It is necessary to make sure that the base is solid, does not creak or sway anywhere. If the floor is wooden, use a metal mesh. Laying tiles on linoleum is unacceptable, as it can move and the lining will quickly peel off. If a cement screed is being made, it should be kept for 45 days until the solution has completely hardened. You can not lay the tiles earlier, because the remaining moisture can lead to rotting of the floor under the tiles.

They begin to lay out the tiles from the far wall, so that later they do not have to step on the newly pasted row. However, as with the installation on the wall, indentation is made to avoid the influence of unevenness, which always takes place in the corners. The first tile laid on the floor should not touch the walls. Particular attention is paid to maintaining the same laying height. Before how to lay ceramic tiles, apply glue to it or according to the markings directly on the floor. If the tile has gone deep, add a solution, if it protrudes, remove a part or lightly tap with a wooden hammer. The laid tiles should dry without load, the drying time depends on the adhesive used and is usually 24-48 hours.

Facing with decorative stone

In the same way, it can be glued to walls and facing stone. It is often used for cladding plinth or exterior walls. You can also lay out a hallway or an arch in the house. If a dark stone is laid inside the room, it may look too gloomy. To avoid this, make the backlight with LED strips, spotlights or lamps. The installation of the stone has no significant features. You just need to pay attention to the reverse side of the stone. If there are bumps, swellings on it, they are leveled with a narrow grinder. Filling the joints should be done with great care so that the grout does not fall on the front surface. If this happens, it is removed with a sponge. The seam should not contrast in color with the surface of the stone, this gives the impression of untidiness. In this case, it can be carefully painted over, but it is better to choose the color of the grout in advance. Sometimes the stone itself is painted or varnished. A hydrophobic solution applied to the stone will protect it and make it easier to care for.

What mistakes are made when laying

The wrong tile

Going to purchase tiles, people are more often guided by two factors that affect the final choice - design and pricing. But having decided on the purchase, they do not check the tiles for identity. This is a gross mistake that can result in uneven joints between tiles, tiles of different sizes and shades. Before buying, you need to check the dimensions of the tiles. It is better to take several tiles of the same batch from different boxes and compare them with each other. The ceramic material must be the same along the perimeter, the height of the product.

Purchase of glazed ceramics

The bathroom is a place where there should be increased security. Leaving after a shower, a person should not slide on the floor, as on an ice rink. Because glazed tiles are not suitable, it is worth buying non-glazed material. Safety must be paramount, because a fall on a ceramic floor can result in serious injury to a person.

Choosing the wrong tile mix

Laying tiles on the bathroom floor requires the correct selection of mixtures for fixing the tiles. With the current choice of material, the need for cement mortar for laying gone, manufacturers offer good mixtures that will facilitate the process of laying tiles on the floor. For the bathroom and toilet, they buy a primer, glue and grout exclusively for floor coverings. The base of the bathroom and toilet is constantly subjected to heavy loads, therefore it is necessary to lay the tiles on an adhesive of increased fixation.

Particular attention is paid to the preparation of the mixture. Do not deviate from the instructions on the packaging of the mixture, the proportions must be strictly observed when preparing the adhesive emulsion

To do this, you need to carefully study all the recommendations of manufacturers. The glue should be homogeneous, without lumps.

Poorly prepared base.

How to lay tiles if the original base is uneven? Many try to solve the problem with a large amount of glue. This is a fatal mistake that guarantees a curved floor with height differences. The fact is that leveling the surface by laying tiles with a large amount of glue will entail landslides of the adhesive base and the likelihood that the tile will simply “float” reaches almost 100%.

Therefore, before laying, attention must be paid to leveling the surface. Correctly laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom is possible only on a well-prepared plane

Measurement error made

Trying to lay tiles without careful measurements is to find all the work to fail. Without a corner, a rubber mallet and a water, or better than a laser level, it is impossible to lay a tiled floor evenly.

The laid row of tiles must be checked with a level, the defects are leveled with a rubber mallet. Why a rubber mallet and not an ordinary one? The ceramic coating can simply burst or chip when using an ordinary hammer, so a rubber hammer should always be at hand.

Leveling tiles with a rubber mallet

Bathroom tile basics

In order for the tiles to last as long as possible, it is necessary to follow a certain order of laying tiles in the bathroom. Laying tiles on the floor is easier. Therefore, if there is little experience, then it is better to start with the floor.

If laying is planned parallel to the walls, then it is better to start from a visible angle for more decorative qualities. finished surface. Diagonal laying is usually done from the middle of the room

Particular attention should be paid to tile joints, since their size depends decorative properties surfaces

Adjustment of the sizes of seams is carried out by means of plastic crosses. It is necessary to ensure that air does not form under the tile, which can lead to the destruction of the material. Be sure to check the level. Trimming tiles is done using a tile cutter or grinder.

Consider the sequence of laying tiles in the bathroom on the walls. Here the situation is more complicated, since you have to work on a vertical surface. In this case, there are also certain rules for laying tiles in the bathroom.

First, you need to start laying from a visible angle. Secondly, laying is carried out from a profile nailed to the wall and aligned horizontally. It is fastened at such a height from the floor that only whole tiles are laid under the ceiling.

After the glue dries, the bottom row is reported. To apply glue here, you can use a notched trowel that will allow you to adjust the layer. Too much adhesive can cause tiles to slip or fall off.

Sometimes you have to make slopes of tiles in the bathroom, for example, for niches under sewer pipes. In this case, you should come up with spacers, since when gluing tiles on the upper slope, it may fall off. To decorate the joints, external and internal corners for tiles in the bathroom are used.

The final step is grouting the joints with a mixture of the appropriate color. The excess mixture is removed with a sponge, and then the entire tile is wiped clean.

Thus, it is clear that the technology of laying tiles in the bathroom is quite complicated. But with a certain amount of diligence, it is quite feasible on our own

It is very important to strictly follow the laying rules and use only high-quality building materials.

Additional Information:

Reasons for the deformation of the tiles in the bathroom on the walls and floor

Bringing tile joints in order when laying tiles on the floor

How to clad aerated concrete with clinker tiles

How to choose the optimal layout

Before choosing a tile, it is worth drawing a sketch by hand to determine the type of cladding. To do this, you need to draw a detailed plan of the room with all sizes and furnishings:

• carefully measure the floor and walls, openings, indicate the parameters on paper;
• draw up a drawing of the bathroom and be sure to display the location of the doorway, window (if any), all niches and ledges;
• indicate the location of plumbing fixtures, sockets, switches, pipeline outlets.

Now that the plan is ready, you can choose the optimal layout scheme using colored pencil sketches. Such a sketch will help determine the best location of decorative elements, places for cutting tiles, problem areas. Be sure to take into account the degree of complexity of the work, if you plan to do the cladding yourself.

Diagonal way

The most complex and laborious.

This method has a number of advantages:

• visually expands the area;
• if mistakes are made in the layout and the walls are non-perpendicular or non-parallel, it hides this drawback;
• gives a beautiful and original drawing.

And also cons:

• even slight deviations in the size of the tiles are not allowed;
• more waste.

With the "diagonal" method, the first row begins to be laid from the cut tiles diagonally, which increases the percentage of waste.

The tile joints are located perpendicular to each other and at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls. Checking the accuracy of laying tiles in the bathroom is carried out with a level and a square.

The following options for laying tiles in the bathroom are a two-color combination of already known methods.

Ways of laying ceramic tiles advantages and disadvantages

Laying tiles in the bathroom is carried out according to various schemes, each of which can emphasize the advantages of ceramic coating and allow you to use the geometry of the room with maximum benefit. Below are the most popular styling models with an assessment of their practicality.

direct method

The most simple to implement and cost-effective. Tiles are laid in even stripes parallel to the plane of the floor and walls. Suitable for both square and rectangular tiles. The second option, depending on the location, can contribute to a visual increase in space.

This order of laying tiles in the bathroom is often used among beginners in this field.

Off the beaten track

Such a laying scheme is similar to the installation of brickwork, when the tiles are laid in a checkerboard pattern with a shift of subsequent rows relative to the previous ones by 1/2 of the length. This option looks especially advantageous when laying tiles in the shape of a rectangle, the sides of which are in a ratio of 2 to 1. The advantages are similar to the direct layout method, with the difference that there will be more waste.

Laying apart is ideal for rectangular tiles, called "boar", as the result is a surface that mimics real brickwork.

Diagonally

This laying method is characterized by the arrangement of fragments at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the line of junction of the floor and walls. This technique looks very impressive, especially on large-scale surfaces, but is more difficult to work with. An expanded panorama with lines crossing diagonally appears before your eyes. For a limited space, this method is not suitable, as it will optically reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Among the shortcomings, one can note the increased complexity of the work and the significant labor costs associated with the need to trim the tiles. Diagonal laying is associated with a large level of waste, and therefore is quite expensive.

The performance of work on diagonal laying will require a sufficient level of skill from the worker. For beginner finishers, such a scheme may be too complicated.

Modular

The modular scheme was invented to create an unusual styling. Drawings that are original and modern design, can be obtained through the use of tiles of different sizes, but with multiple faces. The main difficulty lies in the correct calculation of the required amount finishing material. To this end, a schematic layout plan is created to scale. Be sure to take into account the level of thickness of the seams.

The modular scheme is in many ways similar to the stacking method, but the calculations for its creation must be as accurate as possible.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom

To properly lay the tile, you will need to follow a number of recommendations:

1. It is necessary to start laying tiles on the wall from the second row, the count is from the floor. First row of tiles initial stage remains empty, during installation it is worth focusing on the markup.
2. The adhesive is applied to the base, not to the tiles. For convenience, use a notched trowel, it will create the desired texture.
3. Do not press too hard on the tile during installation, if you overdo it, the ceramics may not withstand and crack or break.
4. Excess glue is removed with a foam sponge.
5. To ensure that the seams between the tiles in the bathroom are the same in width, use special crosses. The optimal width is a few millimeters.
6. Check each new row for horizontality. Even the slightest deviation later can lead to masonry distortions. This can happen due to slightly different sizes of tiles, which periodically happens with domestic ceramics.
7. When facing corners and ledges in the bathroom, you will need to cut the tiles using a grinder or tile cutter.
8. If you need to make notches, you can simply gently break them out with pliers until you get a hole of the required size.

You can see in more detail how to lay tiles on the walls of the bathroom with your own hands on the instructional video.

Seam processing

Having figured out how to properly lay the tiles in the bathroom, you can proceed to consider the next most important step - grouting the tile joints. How to process ceramic products yourself? You need to start the grouting process one day after laying the last tile.

With a sponge, the remaining glue is removed from the tile. The grout solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions. Apply it inside the seams with a rubber spatula. The tile mortar hardens within half an hour. Then it is wiped with a damp sponge.

Processing seams on tiles

In order to avoid the formation of mold and fungus in the future, the finished seams are treated with a special mixture. Wide seams are rubbed with a mixture of sand, to which it is recommended to add latex. Latex will protect the seams from cracking, eliminating the need to replace the tile. It also performs a decorative function in the bathroom, the design of which will become unique.

The use of latex does not require dilution of the dry mixture with water. It is enough to mix them and leave for a while. The finished grout is applied with a brush or cloth. After drying, the seams are washed again with a dampened sponge.

Wall preparation

The preparation of the walls comes down to their plastering and leveling. The tile must be laid absolutely flush with the wall. If the seams between the bricks are deep, they are sealed with mortar. First you need to decide on the verticality of the walls. If the wall has a deviation from the vertical of more than four centimeters, it does not make sense to level it with plaster. Such walls are sheathed with plasterboard sheets.

Plaster leveling

First you need to remove the plaster that has lagged behind the wall and plaster all the cracks. The only tool that can do this job, even out all the flaws, is a rule that is at least two meters long. It is the rule that all excess solution is cut off. If there is no rule, then you can use a flat metal corner instead or square pipe suitable length. The applied solution must be removed as a rule without sparing.

Proper preparation of the base

The success of the event depends not only on the quality of the purchased materials, but also on how thoroughly the preparatory work has been carried out. Laying should be carried out on the wall, cleaned of the old coating. Walls and floors must be perfectly clean and flat surface. Otherwise, the tile will eventually swell, crack, and then completely fall off.

The old tile is beaten off with a chisel and a hammer. You can use a puncher, but it makes a lot of noise. The paint is peeled off with a spatula or drill.

The floor is leveled in two ways:

• concrete mixture;
• leveling compound.

Leveling the floor under the tiles in the bathroom

The latter option is more expensive, easier to perform and allows you to get a perfectly flat surface.

If there are significant irregularities on the walls, they are eliminated with a concrete mixture or putty. However, it is easier to close them with moisture-resistant drywall

When using it, you will have to pay special attention to sealing the seams. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, they are additionally varnished

The primer helps to increase the moisture-resistant qualities of the material and increase adhesion. She is recommended to cover not only drywall, but also a concrete or brick base.

Docking materials

Technological docking of laminate and ceramics can be carried out using the following products:

• use of flexible PVC profile allows you to connect curvilinear bends;
• a flexible metal profile is used to connect curved zones and straight seams;
• an aluminum threshold is used to process the mating surfaces under the door leaf;
• the use of a box threshold increases sound insulation and seals the joints;
• with the help of a transitional PVC profile, coatings with a large height difference are finished;
• when using a cork compensator, an even mating surface is obtained between the laminate and the tile;
• using a T-shaped profile from the array, straight seams are made.

T-profile

Layout types

There are many types of tiling on the floor and walls of the bathroom, from the simplest to the incredibly complex. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Consider the most popular types of tile layout.

Straight

The easiest and most popular option for laying tiles in the bathroom. The tile is located strictly parallel to the floor and walls, row by row. For a similar layout, a simple rectangular or square shape is suitable.

Off the beaten track

Otherwise similar design called brickwork or masonry. In order for such a decor to look harmonious, it is worth choosing the right proportions of the tile. Perfect option the ratio of width to length is 1 to 2. How beautifully you can lay out tiles in the bathroom, imitating brickwork shown in the photo below.

Diagonal

One of the most difficult ways to lay tiles in the bathroom, requiring experience. When choosing such a masonry, it must be borne in mind that due to the constant cutting of the tile, the material consumption will be much higher compared to other options. However, the effort and money spent will justify itself, because diagonal laying tiles are also one of the most spectacular.

Despite the showiness, the diagonal design is not suitable for every bathroom. If the area is small, it is better to use simpler options, since the diagonal will only make all the imperfections of the room visible. It is better to choose a similar layout for a spacious room, however, it is worth monitoring the curvature of the walls - they should be perfectly even without deviations from the perpendicular axis. How to use diagonal tiles in bathroom design can be seen in the photo.

Modular

An effective choice for bathroom design. In this case, tiles of different sizes are used, it can be laid out in any combination, which gives room for imagination. There are a lot of options for combining different tiles in the bathroom, the most interesting can be found in the photo.

Horizontal

Clear lines can significantly change the proportions of a room. The horizontal layout of the tile is most often a dark bottom combined with a light top. There may also be a variant with several horizontal stripes of different colors. With this design, a plain tile is most often used.

If you have chosen a finish with patterns, it is better to separate the parts of the masonry with a plain border. To make the design more harmonious, the border is used not only at the bottom of the walls, but also under the ceiling. How the horizontal tile layout in the bathroom will look like can be seen in the photo below.

vertical

With a vertical variant of the layout of the tiles in the bathroom, brighter stripes stand out clearly against a plain background. The width of the stripes can be different, the same or alternate. However, it should be borne in mind that too frequent a strip looks too bright and is not suitable for decorating all bathroom walls. In this way, it is better to select only one wall, a separate section or a niche.

Vertical stripes visually stretch the room up, at the same time slightly narrowing it. It looks good on longitudinal long walls, but not on the ends in narrow spaces. With the help of stripes, you can highlight different areas of the bathroom, if it is combined with a toilet, as well as the most significant design elements.

Mosaic layout

The combination of ordinary tiles and mosaics in the bathroom looks very impressive. A real mosaic is more difficult to assemble, since hundreds of small elements are required to be laid out exactly according to the scheme, never making a mistake.

However, there are simpler options - ready-made mosaics on a grid or imitation. Mosaics can be used in many ways:

1. Wall decor. A mosaic pattern can be made in one color or be with a full pattern. The choice of ornaments, colors or plot of images depends on the style of the interior and the personal wishes of the household.
2. Flooring. If the bathroom is small, colorful mosaics on the walls may look too bright, but similar decor on the floor will look good even in a small area.
3. Space zoning. With the help of mosaics, you can divide the bathroom into zones. This finish is especially popular in the shower area or on the wall along the bath.
4. To attract attention. Mosaic can highlight specific details, such as a sink or hooks for bath towels.
5. Decoration. Mosaic does not have to occupy the entire bathroom, it can be a border, individual stripes or patterns.
6. Hard-to-reach places. The tiny details of the mosaic allow it to be used to finish the most complex surfaces.

How beautiful to combine tiles with mosaics in the bathroom can be seen in the photo.

Tile grouting and processing

Grouting tiles is performed after the entire room is lined with this material. If during the laying of the tiles on the walls gaps were left for subsequent grouting, then grouting without sand in the composition will be required. Grouts with sand are used for floor tiles, which are also laid at wide intervals. To boost beneficial features grout, some craftsmen add latex to it, the solution of which is sold in specialized stores. You should not try to save on this solution, since its useful properties are noticeably reduced along with a decrease in its concentration. The latex solution increases the elasticity of the grout and the quality of its adhesion.

We rub the seams in the bathroom

DIY bathroom tiling

It is convenient to distribute the solution over the surface with the help of a rubber trowel, which must be carefully driven diagonally across the laid tile, holding it slightly at an angle. Proper grouting allows you to fill every single seam with grout, but it is better to check this after the process is completed.

It is recommended to start grouting from the wall near which the bath is located, and when it is finished, it will be possible to clean the place from which the repair was started. After grouting, ceramic tiles are treated with a sealant to protect against harmful effects, which is applied using a paint roller, but if only seams are processed, then an ordinary brush can also be used. In order for the tile to serve as long as possible, it is treated with sealant at least once a year.

A little about the choice of material

As we have already said, ceramic bathroom tiles are the most popular type of finishing material. Certain requirements are imposed on this room, respectively, and the materials for its decoration should be chosen correctly, namely, taking into account their technical characteristics:

• minimal moisture absorption;
• increased resistance to cleaning chemicals;
• resistance to mechanical stress;
• resistance to high temperatures and a couple;
• bathroom floor tiles must be resistant to abrasion; resist bending and abrasive agents.

When choosing a material, one should proceed from the quality of ceramics. Tiles that meet European standards can be of three varieties, each of which is marked certain color. The first grade is a tile with a red marking, which is of high quality and durability. The second grade is a material that can have a marriage of about 5%, this series is marked with blue or light blue markings. The lowest grade is marked in green.

Ceramic tiles are distinguished by a resistance class, of which there are five, they are marked with Roman numerals. In a residential area, it is advisable to use a material not higher than the III class of wear resistance, and for the bathroom, the first class is enough. Since laying out tiles in the bathroom is not easy, you should correctly calculate its amount - ideally, you should take the material with a margin of about 15% to allow for fit. Well, the design of the material plays an important role in the choice - after all, everyone wants the bathroom to be not only functional and comfortable, but also beautiful. And the variety of tiles is a guarantee that you can easily find your own way of finishing.

Where to start

The first thing you need to think about is not how to arrange the tile decor in the bathroom, first you need a room plan with the location of the main interior details - plumbing and furniture

What you need to pay attention to when creating a diagram:

1. Thinking over the drawing, observe all the proportions and scales of the bathroom, but do not make the drawing too small. The scheme should be large enough to place all the elements on it and clearly indicate the dimensions.
2. For the correct layout of the tiles in the bathroom, you need to know the exact dimensions, so measure all the walls of the room, taking into account doorway, ledges and niches. Sign the obtained values ​​​​on the diagram.
3. Mark the location of plumbing and furniture on the drawing.
4. Be sure to indicate the location of the ventilation shaft, sockets, switches, etc.
5. Interior details that are mounted on top of the finish are not required to be indicated on the diagram - they do not affect the layout in any way.
6. Make a control check - compare the real bathroom with the resulting scheme, make sure everything is correct.

This is what a bathroom should look like with the correct tile layout

An accurate diagram is needed in order to correctly calculate the amount of material, the dimensions of the tile and the ornament itself. If you make even a small miscalculation, it may turn out that the most beautiful elements of the layout will be behind the plumbing or in the corners, otherwise the effect that was conceived from such a decor will be completely lost. Design examples that can be found for laying tiles in the bathroom are shown in the photo below.

Bathroom tile layout sketch

The tiling process

Having carefully considered various options bathroom tiling, let's move on to the study of the laying process itself, using the example of flooring in the bathroom.

To do this, imagine that the tile has already been selected, all materials have been purchased, and the necessary measurements have been made.

1. We clean the surface: we remove the old coating from the floors: linoleum, parquet, tiles along with glue or mortar. Having tapped the surface and heard a dull sound, we also remove the old screed (which means that there are cavities under it and the base is not strong).
2. Next, prepare the surface for laying tiles.

• If there are large differences relative to the horizon, it is necessary to level the surface. We do this with a cement-sand mortar.
• After the screed has dried, prime the surface and dry.
• We arrange waterproofing using bituminous pastes or a special mixture for plaster waterproofing.

• We prime again to increase the adhesion of the base to the future coating.
• If the differences in the horizontal level of the floor are small, you can use a special self-leveling mixture (level-mass) that can remove the difference from 3 to 15 mm. In the case of using a level-mass, a surface primer is not needed.

Now the base of the floor is ready.

Above, the options for the bathroom - tiling were considered and you have already chosen the appropriate installation method.

1. We begin laying the tiles in the direction from the far wall to the doors. We also determine which wall will have a bath, shower, washing machine or furniture, under which the cut edges of the tiles will hide. We carry out work from the direction of the open corner (whole tile) to the wall with plumbing (cut tiles).

For this:

• we set two tiles in the corners to the desired height and fasten them to the alabaster (it dries quickly and can be easily removed in the future);
• the wrong side of the tile is well wetted with water (can be lowered into a container of water);
• with a special (notched) trowel we apply diluted glue to the entire surface of the tile;

• we put it in place, joining with the lighthouse tiles, and leaving a gap between them with the help of special identical crosses;
• we upset the laid tile in place, tapping on it with a trowel handle;
• we check the correctness of the draft with a rule, a rail or a nylon thread, putting it on top of the lighthouse tiles, or we check the horizon with a short level;

• excess glue that has come out after precipitation is removed with a trowel;
• clean the seam between the tiles with a spatula;
• check the horizon again;
• we repeat the whole cycle until the end of the row, then we remove the beacons and install them already with glue.

1. After all the tiles are laid, and the glue has dried, we proceed to grouting the joints:

• with a dry cloth, it is necessary to remove the remaining glue from the surface of the tiles;
• fill the seams with diluted grout with a rubber spatula;
• Let dry and remove excess.

As you already understood, the laying process is not difficult, but it requires accuracy and care. A well-chosen technology will ensure a long service life of the tile. Good luck!

Tile selection and installation

In order to correctly calculate the amount facing material, it is necessary to measure the surface area on which it will lie, and also determine the size of the tile itself. Tiles range in size from 100x100mm to 600x600mm and are sold at square meter. You need to buy it with a margin, since when laying about 5% can go to marriage. Also, the number of tiles purchased is affected by the way it is laid. There are several such ways:

1. Direct styling. This is the simplest and most common way.
2. Diagonal fit. Looks more impressive, suitable for square rooms, will help hide slanting walls.
3. Laying in a checkerboard pattern. The best way laying tiles of two or more colors.
4. Offset padding. In this case, the tile of the next row is placed with an offset to the tile of the previous row. This option is more suitable for rectangular rooms.
5. Mosaic. This method is laid out of a facing material of different sizes and colors, while creating a certain pattern, pattern.

After the choice and method of laying has been made, you can begin to prepare the walls.

Before starting repair

Before laying the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, you will need to check if there is a slope on the walls. This is easily done with a level, the walls must be strictly at an angle of 90 degrees. If you deviate up or down, you will need to first level the surface with plaster. You can see how this is done on the video, without leveling it with high quality, it will not work to lay tiles in the bathroom - such a repair runs the risk of not holding out for a long time.

If the angle between the wall and the floor deviates from the norm of 90 degrees, there may be ugly gaps in the masonry between the tiles, difficulties with installing a bathtub or shower tray (the appearance of large gaps that will have to be sealed with sealant), etc.

In such a process as the technology of laying tiles on a wall, there is nothing complicated, there are just a couple of subtleties that it is desirable for every novice master to know. That's exactly what we'll talk about.

Bathroom tiling

Surface preparation

Tools for preparatory work:

• Chisel;
• Perforator (for removing tiles);
• Sponge (for removing wallpaper);
• Primer;
• Brush;
• timber;
• Nozzle - whisk;
• Container for glue;
• adhesive mixture;
• Level.

In order to start the main stage of work, you should take care of intermediate, preparatory matters, which are also included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall.

To do this, you must first remove all the old finishes, be it wallpaper, panels,.

As for the tiles: be sure to remove all the trim from the wall! There are tips on the net that say that you can beat off the top coating, and then the wall technology will not be violated, but this recommendation is ONLY relevant for the floor.

When installing, be sure to use crosses

What needs to be determined is the magnitude of these shortcomings. If they are more than 1 cm, then you should start leveling the walls, otherwise the adjustment will be due to a greater overlap of the mixture.

So, if the wall is more or less even,. These actions are, in principle, not mandatory, but still recommended, since as a result you will improve the adhesion between the mortar and the wall, which will automatically increase the quality of the masonry.

While the primed wall dries, you can attach the beam to the wall, since the technology of laying tiles on the wall is repelled mainly not from the floor line, which can be uneven, but from the beam, which, of course, is set at the level of the masonry second from the bottom of the tile.

Now that the preparatory work included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall is completed, we can knead the adhesive mixture.

It is best, of course, to use special nozzle- a mixer, because by hand it is still impossible to mix the mixture homogeneously.

tiling

Installation of tiles on the wall

To lay tiles on the walls, you need to prepare the following tools:

• Master OK;
• notched trowel;
• Level;
• Rubber mallet;
• The tile itself;
• Plastic limiters - crosses.

Competent technology for laying ceramic tiles on a wall involves applying the mixture to the wall, and not to the tile.

It is allowed to collect glue on the tile only if the wall has irregularities that count more mixtures you can fix.

So, we applied the mixture to the wall (on a part, about two rows of tiles, the entire surface, of course, should not be covered), leveled it with a notched trowel and grab the tiles.

They put it against the wall, pressed it. However, try to do it without undue enthusiasm, you should not put too much pressure.

The correct technology for laying tiles on a wall involves the constant use of a level to correct the installation of the tile itself. To do this, as soon as you lay the tiles on the wall, pick up the above tool and check the resulting surface for horizontality. If the edge protrudes, you need to gently tap it with a rubber mallet, but if the tile is "drowned" - you need to dismantle it and shift it again.

So, moving behind the tile tiles, you lay out 2-3 rows. Now stop and take a break. It is needed in order to give the mortar time to set, because otherwise the laying of tiles on the wall may simply not withstand the pressure of the upper rows and collapse.

To regulate the thickness of the seams, be sure to use special regulators when laying ceramic tiles, only then the seams will be even, and equal.

While you are waiting for the mortar setting time indicated on the package using the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall, it makes sense to cut the tiles.

Cutting tiles at home

Cutting ceramic tiles can be done with several tools:

• Manual tile cutter;
• Electric tile cutter;
• glass cutter;
• Bulgarian;
• Wire cutters.

Most best option for you - a manual tile cutter. The electric analogue is by no means worse, even better, but its cost is higher by a level.

Glass cutter and nippers are also a good choice, however, unfortunately, not every tile lends itself to a glass cutter now, as the quality of the material is sometimes much better than you expect.

But the grinder is a rather complicated tool, and even dangerous, which is why it is undesirable for you to contact it if you do not know how to use it.

It is recommended to deal with sharp tiles for walls, and even floors, in the process of laying ceramic tiles, since often masters do not take into account that there will definitely be seams during laying, and as a result, the tiles have to be cut, and it will be much more difficult to carefully cut the tiles into a small segment, believe me .

The final stage, which is part of the technology of laying tiles on the wall, is grouting.

Grouting tiles

You will need the following materials:

• Fugue;
• Breeding tank;
• Rubber spatula;
• A piece of cable for jointing;
• Water;
• Sponge.

There is nothing complicated in grouting tiles, you just need to remember that you should start this process only after at least a day after laying on the floor, walls and any other surface.

Important! Dilute the mixture in small portions, you should not dilute the entire package at once, the solution seizes quickly enough, and it’s impossible to use it half-cured and with lumps.

The fugue is applied to the seams with a rubber spatula, carefully embroidered with a suitable piece of cable. We have a number of materials that will definitely help you understand this in more detail.

So, in principle, that's all you need for a clear understanding of the technology of laying tiles on the wall, and we are sure that you have figured this out!