Water pipes

The use of vapor barrier in a frame house. Proper wind insulation of a frame house: diffusion membranes and ventilation gaps

Upon contact with water, it ceases to fit snugly enough to the frame, and lose all thermal insulation qualities and properties. Given that the wall frame house 75% of the total volume consists of heat-insulating material, then you need to pay special attention to the main points related to installation and operation, the choice of the necessary one.

You should be aware that the vapor barrier membrane itself does not completely isolate from the penetration of dampness and moisture, the structure of the membrane is porous and multi-layered, and water vapor freely penetrates through it. It can reduce the rate of penetration of moisture and steam, but will not eliminate this process forever! If we consider the membrane in detail, then one of its sides is smooth, and the other has a rough surface. This is provided so that dampness and moisture settle precisely on this side of the membrane and evaporate freely from it in the future. Vapor barrier occurs smooth side to the insulation, and the rough part goes inside the room.

For a healthy and optimal microclimate in the house, internal circulation is needed fresh air, and it goes not only through windows, doors and ventilation, but also through. That is why all walls are breathable - even a material such as concrete has a certain coefficient!

All vapor barrier membranes can be divided among themselves according to their properties and characteristics. Which is better? For damp environments and elevated temperature(sauna, bath) membranes of a different quality are required, in contrast to those used in standard rooms and rooms.

The air contains a certain amount of moisture, it all depends on climate zone, temperature regime and purpose of the dwelling. For example, a steam room in a bath, hot air saturated with water vapor significantly affects the walls, and if after water procedures it is not good to dry and ventilate the entire bath, you may have quite serious problems with the building of the bath.

Sometimes this can happen in the house, for example, in the bathroom, laundry room or bathroom - these are rooms with high humidity, after which there is a kitchen and dining area, living rooms, corridors and halls. Increasing the amount of time you spend doing laundry, showering, cooking, and even just being in the house affects the amount of moisture in the air.

It is up to you to decide which vapor barrier to choose for the walls of a frame house, but this will directly depend on the purpose of your living space. For example, if you want to build a cottage or a house that will be used only in the summer, or vice versa, a full-fledged house for year-round use.

Vapor barrier membranes are used to protect the walls of a frame house from moisture vapor and dampness coming from the interior living quarters, they significantly slow down the penetration of dampness and steam into the walls, but do not completely stop this process, to ensure an optimal and healthy microclimate in the house.

Errors during installation and installation of vapor barrier

At first glance, there is nothing complicated when installing and assembling a vapor barrier membrane, it is carefully attached to the racks with a construction stapler, or bars, and then carefully glued with mounting tape or mastic. But most modern builders are not able to work neatly and jewelry. Usually, the work takes place with the appearance of any folds, cracks on the membrane, and instead of the necessary adhesive tape, the membrane is sealed with standard packing tape. Or they can even mount the vapor barrier on the other side. You will be able to notice the result of such unfavorable work only after 2-3 seasons, when the one already wet in the wall will stop working correctly.

Installation and installation of a vapor barrier membrane on the outside of the frame house

In this case, moisture vapor and dampness, passing through the wall, form condensate on the surface of the membrane, and this leads to dampening of the material. A windscreen is mounted outside the walls of the frame house, and unlike the vapor barrier membrane, it perfectly passes moisture and dampness vapors.

Frame house without vapor barrier

Such heaters as polystyrene foam, ecowool and polyurethane foam allow you to apply such a solution. But in this case, it is necessary to ensure sufficiently good ventilation of all rooms to remove excess moisture. The best option there will be a forced installation of the system.

Double vapor barrier effect

Basically, this effect occurs in damp or technical rooms, when all walls are finished with special plastic panels, tile or oilcloth, and other poorly breathing materials. As a result, moisture and dampness are trapped between two materials with little vapor barrier. To avoid this effect, use a special air gap between the wall and the finishing material, as an example, pre-sheathe the bathroom with rails, and then attach them to them finishing material. Or do not install vapor barrier in these places at all, so that dampness and moisture can easily escape through the walls, but if high humidity and dampness are constantly present, there is a risk of it accumulating in the wall. This solution is usually used for the temporary use of buildings, summer houses and cottages, and so on.

Vaporization scheme designs

To date, there are two main design schemes for the vapor barrier of the walls of a frame house.

First, the vapor barrier membrane is attached to all racks wooden frame, further, on top of them interior decoration living quarters or clapboard.
The second - a vertical or horizontal crate is installed on top of the vapor barrier film, which provides an air gap from frame wall in 4-5cm.

Consider which of these design schemes is more correct.

There are many opinions on this matter. Firstly, many of the building materials that are used in Canada or the United States are not found on our market, or they are sold at a huge price. Secondly, the difference between building materials, brought from abroad and domestic producers can be substantially huge!

Provided there is sufficient ventilation to remove excess moisture and dampness contained in the air, wall design is not that important, because proper vapor barrier of a frame house is just an additional insurance. The construction of the walls of a frame house without a certain air gap, it is advisable to use for the construction of those buildings that will be operated only in the summer or used temporarily - cottages, dining areas and guest houses, a variety of workshops, and parking lots. But in this case, it is necessary to make ventilation, or at least install a ventilation duct, be sure to provide for conclusions from the bathroom, kitchen area, and technical rooms.

And the wall design of a frame house with an air gap is suitable for houses that will be used constantly. Because in this case there is a risk of high humidity and dampness inside a residential building.

And in conclusion, we note that vapor barrier films or membranes are produced by a number of construction companies, but the most famous manufacturers are TechnoNikol, Izospan, Tyvek.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNjxQobTssUhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNjxQobTssUhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-mLaZrSgso

I was led to this article by total illiteracy on the part of both builders and buyers, as well as the phrase “steam hydro insulation” or “hydro vapor barrier” that is increasingly flashing in commercial offers - because of which all the pandemonium then begins, lost money, problematic designs, etc.

So, you have probably heard about waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - that is, about films that are placed in insulated roofs and frame walls to protect them. But here further, often begins a complete "steam-hydrodisgrace".

I will try to write in a very simple and accessible way, without diving into formulas and physics. The main thing is to understand the principles.

Steam or hydro?

Let's start with the fact that the main mistake is to mix steam and moisture into one concept. Steam and moisture are completely different things!

Formally, steam and moisture are water, but in different states of aggregation, respectively, having a different set of properties.

Water, it is also moisture, it is also “hydra” (hydro from ancient Greek ὕδωρ “water”) - this is what we see with our eyes and can feel. Tap water, rain, river, dew, condensate. In other words, it's a liquid. It is in this state that the term "water" is commonly used.

Steam is the gaseous state of water, water dissolved in air .

When an ordinary person talks about steam, for some reason he thinks that it is necessarily something visible and tangible. Steam from the nose of a kettle, in a bathhouse, in a bathroom, etc. But actually it is not.

Vapor is present in the air always and everywhere. Even as you read this article, there is steam in the air around you. It underlies the very humidity of the air, which you have probably heard about and complained more than once that the humidity is too high or too low. Although no one saw this moisture with their eyes.

In a situation where there is no steam in the air, a person will not live long.

Taking advantage of the different physical properties of water in liquid and gaseous states, science and industry have received the ability to create materials that allow steam to pass through, but do not allow water to pass through.

That is, this is a kind of sieve that can pass steam, but will not let water in a liquid state.

At the same time, especially smart scientists, and then manufacturers, figured out how to make a material that will conduct water in only one direction. How exactly this is done is not important to us. There are few such membranes on the market.

Vapor permeable membrane - allows steam to pass through in both directions, but does not allow moisture to pass through

So, a construction film that is impervious to water, but passes steam equally in both directions - is called waterproofing paro permeable membrane. That is, it passes steam freely in both directions, but does not pass water (hydra) at all or only in one direction.

paro insulation - this is a material that does not let anything through, neither steam nor water. Moreover, at the moment, vapor barrier membranes- that is, materials that have one-sided vapor permeability have not yet been invented.

Remember as "Our Father" - there is no universal "parohydro membrane". There is a vapor barrier and vapor permeable waterproofing. These are fundamentally different materials - with different purposes. The use of these films in the wrong place and in the wrong place can lead to extremely sad consequences for your home!

Formally, vapor barrier can be called vapor barrier, since it does not let water or steam through. But using the term is a path to dangerous mistakes.

Therefore, once again, in frame construction, as well as in insulated roofs, two types of films are used

paro insulating- which do not let steam or water through and are not membranes
Waterproofing steam permeable membranes (also called windproof, due to extremely low air permeability or superdiffusion)

These materials have different properties and using them for other purposes is almost guaranteed to lead to problems with your home.

Why do you need films in the roof or frame wall?

To understand this, you need to add a little theory.

Let me remind you that the purpose of this article is to explain “on the fingers” what is happening, without delving into physical processes, partial pressure, molecular physics, etc. So I apologize in advance to those who had five in physics 🙂 In addition, I will immediately make a reservation that in reality all the processes described below are much more complicated and have a lot of nuances. But we need to understand the essence.

Nature has already ordered that in the house the steam always goes in the direction from warm to cold. Russia, a country with a cold climate, has an average heating period of 210-220 days out of 365 a year. If you add to it the days and nights when it is colder outside than in the house, then even more.

Therefore, we can say that most of the time, the steam movement vector is directed from the inside of the house, to the outside. It doesn't matter what we are talking about - walls, roofing or lower floors. Let's call all these things in one word - enclosing structures

In homogeneous designs, the problem usually does not occur. Because the vapor permeability of a homogeneous wall is the same. The vapor easily passes through the wall and out into the atmosphere. But as soon as we have a multilayer structure consisting of materials with different vapor permeability, everything becomes not so simple.

Moreover, if we talk about walls, then we are not necessarily talking about a frame wall. Any multi-layer wall, even brick or aerated concrete with external insulation, will already make you think.

Surely you have heard that in a multi-layer construction, the vapor permeability of the layers should increase as the steam moves.

What will happen then? Steam enters the structure and moves in it from layer to layer. At the same time, the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer is higher and higher. That is, from each subsequent layer, steam will come out faster than from previous.

Thus, we do not form an area where the vapor saturation reaches the value when, at a certain temperature, it can condense into real moisture (dew point).

In this case, we will not have any problems. The difficulty is that to achieve this in a real situation is not easy enough.

Vapor barrier of roof and walls. Where is it placed and why is it needed?

Let's consider another situation. Steam got into the structure, moves outward through the layers. Passed the first layer, the second ... and then it turned out that the third layer is no longer as vapor-permeable as the previous one.

As a result, the steam that got into the wall or roof does not have time to leave it, and a new “portion” is already supporting it from behind. As a result, before the third layer, the vapor concentration (more precisely, saturation) begins to grow.

Remember what I said before? Steam moves from warm to cold. Therefore, in the region of the third layer, when the saturation of the steam reaches a critical value, then at a certain temperature at this point, the steam will begin to condense into real water. That is, we got the "dew point" inside the wall. For example, on the border of the second and third layers.

This is what is often observed by people whose house is sewn up from the outside with something that has poor vapor permeability, such as plywood or OSB or DSP, but there is no vapor barrier inside or it is made of poor quality. Rivers of condensate flow along the inner side of the outer skin, and the wool adjacent to it is all wet.

Steam easily enters the wall or roof and "skips" the insulation, which usually has excellent vapor permeability. But then it "butts" against the outer material with poor penetration, and as a result, the dew point is formed inside the wall, right in front of the obstruction to the steam path.

There are two ways out of this situation.

It is long and painful to select the materials of the “pie” so that the dew point does not under any circumstances end up inside the wall. The task is possible, but difficult, given that in reality, the processes are not as simple as I describe now.
Put a vapor barrier on the inside and make it as airtight as possible.

It is along the second path that they go to the west, they make an airtight obstacle in the way of steam. After all, if you do not let steam into the wall at all, then it will never reach the saturation that will lead to condensation. And then you don’t have to puzzle over what materials to use in the “pie” itself, in terms of the vapor permeability of the layers.

In other words, the installation of a vapor barrier is a guarantee of the absence of condensation and dampness inside the wall. At the same time, the vapor barrier is always placed on the inner, “warm” side of the wall or roof and is made as tight as possible.

Moreover, the most popular material for this "they" is ordinary polyethylene 200 microns. Which is inexpensive and has the highest vapor permeability, after aluminum foil. Foil would be even better, but it's hard to work with.

In addition, I pay special attention to the word hermetic. In the west, when installing a vapor barrier, all joints of the film are carefully glued. All openings from the wiring of communications - pipes, wires through the vapor barrier, are also carefully sealed. The overlapping vapor barrier installation, which is popular in Russia, without gluing the joints, can give insufficient tightness and, as a result, you will get the same condensate.

Unglued joints and other potential holes in the vapor barrier can cause a wet wall or roof, even if the vapor barrier itself is present.

I also want to note that the mode of operation of the house is important here. Summer country houses, in which you visit more or less regularly only from May to September, and maybe several times in the off-season, and the rest of the time the house is without heating, can forgive you some vapor barrier flaws.

But the house for permanent residence, with constant heating, does not forgive mistakes. The greater the difference between the external “minus” and the internal “plus” in the house, the more steam will flow into the external structures. And the greater the likelihood of condensation inside these structures. Moreover, the amount of condensate as a result can be calculated in tens of liters.

Why do I need a waterproofing or superdiffusion vapor permeable membrane?

I hope you understand why you need to make a vapor barrier from the inner wall - in order not to let steam inside the structures at all and to prevent conditions for its condensation into moisture. But the question arises, where and why to put steam permeable membrane and why it is impossible to put a vapor barrier instead of it.

Windproof, waterproofing membrane for walls

In American wall construction, the vapor permeable membrane is always placed on the outside, on top of the OSB. Its main task, oddly enough, is not to protect the insulation, but to protect the OSB itself. The fact is that Americans make vinyl siding and other facade materials immediately on top of the slabs, without any ventilation gaps or crates.

Naturally, with this approach, there is a possibility of external atmospheric moisture getting between the siding and the slab. How - this is the second question, heavy slanting rain, construction flaws in the area of window openings, adjoining roofs, etc.

If water gets between the siding and the OSB, then it can dry out there for a long time and the slab can begin to rot. And OSB in this regard is a filthy material. If it began to rot, then this process develops very quickly and goes deep into the plate, destroying it from the inside.

It is for this that, first of all, a membrane with one-tonne penetration for water is placed. The membrane will not allow water to pass to the wall in case of a possible leak. But if somehow, water got under the film, due to one-sided penetration, it can come out.

Super diffusion waterproofing membrane for roofing

Don't let the word superdiffusion fool you. In fact, this is the same as in the previous case. The word superdiffusion only means that the film passes vapor very well (vapor diffusion)

In a pitched roof, for example, under a metal tile, there are usually no plates, so the vapor-permeable membrane protects the insulation from both possible leaks from the outside and from blowing by the wind. By the way, that is why such membranes are also called windproof. That is, a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane and a windproof membrane are usually one and the same.

In the roof, the membrane is also placed on the outside, in front of the ventilation gap.

In addition, pay attention to the instructions for the membrane. Since some membranes are placed close to the insulation, and some, with a gap.

Why is it necessary to put a membrane outside, and not a vapor barrier

But why not install a vapor barrier? And make a completely vapor-tight wall on both sides? Theoretically, this is possible. But in practice, it is not so easy to achieve absolute tightness of the vapor barrier - anyway, somewhere there will be damage from fasteners, construction flaws.

That is, some meager amount of steam will still fall into the walls. If there is a vapor-permeable membrane outside, then this minuscule has a chance to get out of the wall. But if the vapor barrier, it will remain for a long time and sooner or later, it will reach a saturated state and again the dew point will appear inside the wall.

So - a windproof or waterproof vapor-permeable membrane is always placed outside. That is, from the "cold" side of the wall or roof. If there are no plates or other structural materials outside, the membrane is placed on top of the insulation. Otherwise, in the walls, it is placed on top of the enclosing materials, but under the facade finish.

By the way, it is worth mentioning one more detail, for which films are used, and the wall or roof is made as tight as possible. Because the best insulation is air. But only if it is absolutely motionless. The task of all heaters, whether it is polystyrene or mineral wool, is to ensure the stillness of the air inside them. Therefore, the lower the density of the insulation, the higher, as a rule, its thermal resistance - the material contains more stationary air and less material.

The use of films on both sides of the wall reduces the likelihood of wind blowing through the insulation or convection air movements inside the insulation. Thus, forcing the heater to work as efficiently as possible.

What is the danger of the term vapor barrier?

The danger lies precisely in the fact that under this term, as a rule, two materials are mixed, with different purposes and with different characteristics.

As a result, confusion begins. Vapor barrier can be installed on both sides. But the most common mistake, especially in roofs, and the most terrible in terms of consequences, is when the result is the opposite - the vapor barrier is installed on the outside, and the vapor-permeable membrane is on the inside. That is, we calmly let steam into the structure, in unlimited quantities, but do not let it go out. This is where the situation shown in the popular video appears.

Conclusion: never confuse the concepts of vapor-permeable waterproofing membranes and vapor barrier - this is a sure way to construction mistakes that have very serious consequences.

How to avoid mistakes with films in a wall or roof?

Fear has big eyes, in fact, with films in a wall or roof, everything is quite simple. The main thing to remember is to follow the following rules:

In a cold climate (most of Russia), vapor barrier is always placed only on the inside, "warm" side - be it a roof or a wall
Vapor barrier is always made as tight as possible - joints, openings of communication penetrations are glued with adhesive tape. This often requires a special adhesive tape (usually with a butyl rubber adhesive base), as a simple one can peel off over time.
The most effective and cheapest vapor barrier is 200 micron polyethylene film. It is desirable "primary" - transparent, it is easiest to glue the joints on it with ordinary double-sided tape. Buying "brand" vapor barriers is usually not justified.
Vapor-permeable membranes (superdiffusion, windproof) are always placed on the outer, cold side of the structure.
Before installing the membrane, pay attention to the instructions for it, as some types of membranes are recommended to be installed with a gap from the material to which it is adjacent.
Instructions can be found on the manufacturer's website or on the roll of the film itself.
Usually, in order to avoid mistakes with “which side” to mount the film, manufacturers roll the roll so that when “rolling out” it outside by design, you automatically mounted the correct side. For other applications, before starting installation, consider which side to place the material.
When choosing a vapor-permeable membrane, you should give preference to quality manufacturers of the "first and second echelon" - Tyvek, Tekton, Delta, Corotop, Juta, Eltete, etc. As a rule, these are European and American brands. Membrane manufacturers of the "third tier" - Izospan, Nanoizol, Megaizol and other "isols", "brains", etc. as a rule, they are much inferior in quality, and most of them are generally of unknown Chinese origin with stamping of the brand of the trading company on the film.

about the author

For a long service life of the insulation in a frame house, attention should be paid to such an element of the overall design as the vapor barrier of the frame house and its quality. It is important to follow this already during the construction of the structure. Although many are still wondering: do I need a vapor barrier for a frame house?

Do I need a vapor barrier in a frame house? A well-thought-out and well-equipped vapor barrier of the internal walls of a frame house is needed for warm and at the same time humid rooms. A large amount of moisture and steam is generated in the frame house, which must be removed from the building in order to maintain optimal humidity, high quality and the appearance of a do-it-yourself frame house.

Moisture in the process of its formation and accumulation tends to go out through the walls or ceiling. First of all, moist air rises, so the vapor barrier of the floors will stop the movement of air and prevent the insulation from getting wet. If the correct vapor barrier of the frame house is not installed, then the humidity in a short time will destroy or cause quite serious damage to the construction site, and also create an unfavorable microclimate.

Vapor barrier of walls and ceiling.

Vapor barrier from inside the house is a barrier designed to protect the surface of walls, floors and ceilings from moisture, therefore, it ideally protects them from subsequent wetting.

Proper vapor barrier of a frame house is an event that is mandatory not only for baths and basements, but also for other premises built or finished using a special technology. Among the main buildings and structures where insulation is needed, it can be noted:

Buildings insulated from the inside, especially if mineral wool or glass wool can be used as insulation. Insulation ideally retains the overall heat, but at the same time does not remove moisture at all. It gradually accumulates in heaters, whereby the base gradually loses its main purpose, and the structure of the heater is also lost.
Structures with multilayer wall insulation. These are frame buildings with special internal insulation, respectively, protection from steam is simply necessary here.
Frame houses with ventilated modern facades. The windproof membrane will play the role of wind protection. The installed wind protection seriously doses and softens the directed flows of external air masses.

On a note

The advantage of a well-equipped vapor barrier from inside the house is its ability to normalize heat transfer in the room.

The main mistakes of the vapor barrier

If you listen to the opinion of professionals, you can find out what difficulties and mistakes you may encounter when solving such an important issue as vapor barrier for the walls of a frame house. Among the most common shortcomings are:

The device of external walls.

Installation of vapor barrier on the outside of the frame house. Steam will pass through the entire finish, and accumulate in the insulation. The vapor barrier layer must be inside the building, with outside wind protection will be enough;
Installing poor vapor barrier in a tiled bathroom. In this situation, water and steam penetrate through the tile joints. All this automatically leads to a violation of not only tightness, but also the strength and reliability of fixing the finishing material in the frame house;
Lack of moisture protection in walls insulated with mineral wool and its analogues. The absence of vapor barrier layers is permissible only if the walls are insulated with foam;
Carrying out poor quality work. The processes associated with the installation of vapor barrier in a frame house must be carried out as clearly as possible, following the instructions. Even the most minor flaws and neglect of the rules will lead to damage.

Frame houses are known for their comfortable microclimate for everyone. For long-term preservation of it and for a serious increase in the time period of the object's service, it is worthwhile to competently carry out all the work and activities related to construction and subsequent professional finishing.

We insulate the ceiling.

Vapor barrier materials

Modern manufacturers offer a huge variety of vapor barrier materials. What vapor barrier to choose for a frame house? The most popular of them include the following options:

Reinforced polyethylene. A material that is becoming increasingly rare and popular solely because of its affordable cost. It is used in such a process as the vapor barrier of the floor of a frame house. In the process of its use, maximum care and strict adherence to the instructions is required. Otherwise, the frame house can turn into a steam room, that is, humid air will accumulate in the house, making living not very comfortable.
Various types of masks. These are special mixtures that are applied to the walls of the structure before the external finishing of the frame house. Bituminous kukersol mastic, which is ideally breathable, and is sold at an affordable cost, is popular. Any type perfectly collects and retains water, completely preserving the frame of the house in its original form. This is possible only with the correct installation of the vapor barrier of the frame house.

Partition wall insulation.

Ruberoid. Suitable for finishing modern frame buildings. The main feature of the material is the need for preliminary arrangement of a wooden crate 50 by 50 mm. Modern roofing material is universal and affordable.
Vapor barrier films. This is a unique option with which you can create a high-quality vapor barrier for the walls of a frame house. Vapor barrier films reliably protect the structure and insulation from moisture. All this ensures the most comfortable stay in buildings built using frame technology.

All of these materials not only provide an excellent level of protection, but are characterized by such positive properties and qualities as the possibility of long-term use, ease of installation, reliability during use and perfect functionality.

Vapor barrier for walls

To equip the vapor barrier layer of modern frame objects, you will need to prepare special tools and the necessary materials. Proper vapor barrier of a frame house requires a certain sequence of work. The tools that the technology of vapor barrier of a frame house provides include:

Adhesive construction tape with a double-sided special coating is construction tape;
Various measuring instruments and standard scissors;
We need metal staples, a hammer, as well as nails;
The main vapor barrier material.

Frame wall pie.

If the installation of the vapor barrier of a frame house is carried out using the adhesion of the main layer, which protects against water and steam with the main frame with nails, you need to purchase slats made of wood or galvanized material as an addition. At the same time, it is not necessary to make a vapor barrier of the internal walls of a frame house, because there is no temperature difference in the partitions, which means that there is no air movement from hot to cold.

Vapor barrier of the floor in a frame house is simply necessary to avoid wetting of the mineral insulation, which at the same time loses its insulating properties. A vapor barrier layer is laid out on the logs, which must be glued at the joints. The counter-rail is stuffed directly on top of the lag, and only then the floor covering is mounted.

On a note

The arrangement of the vapor barrier of the walls of the frame house should be carried out after the installation of the outer layer of wind protection, as well as the layer of insulation.

Wall vapor barrier sequence

The slats and the frame itself are carefully treated with special disinfectants.
Walls are being measured.
According to the obtained dimensions, elements of vapor barrier materials are cut out. In this case, an overlap of 10 mm must be taken into account.
The material is fixed. Fasteners are installed strictly around the perimeter, and rails and a construction stapler are used here. It all depends on the base used. Installation must be done from the bottom and up. Material elements must be placed strictly horizontally. At the joints, you need to use adhesive tape, and it is important to overlap the material itself.

The vapor barrier of the walls and interfloor ceilings of the frame house was made in accordance with all the rules, and after that it is worth taking care of the ventilation in the frame house with your own hands. By the way, the vapor barrier of the partitions of the frame house is not required, because in the internal neighboring rooms the temperature does not differ from each other. But ventilation should take place between the finish and the protection layer. This will help prevent condensation from building up in the interior of the overall design pie.

Basalt wool in insulation.

Vapor barrier between floors

The division of the frame house by interfloor ceilings involves the division of the volume of the premises into parts. In these rooms of frame construction, temperature and humidity may differ. Thermal air vapors will rise upwards, thereby forming condensate on parts of the floors. To protect the load-bearing structures and insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier of interfloor ceilings is made.

Interfloor pie.

It is very important to make a vapor barrier according to all installation rules. The vapor barrier of interfloor ceilings is overlapped by about 100 mm. The joints must be glued with a special tape so that even small gaps do not remain. Only in this case, the vapor barrier will perform its functions.

Proper vapor barrier

In order to achieve an optimal result in working with vapor barrier and in the process of vapor barrier work, it is worth using special insulating and at the same time windproof membranes. The vapor barrier of a frame house with a membrane on the outside will help release moisture to the outside.

If you do not fix high-quality protection on all sides of the mounted insulation, the structure will get wet and lose its basic thermal insulation qualities. If there is no vapor barrier, and the installed insulation layer is tightly closed only with external finishing materials, the cotton wool insulation will get wet very quickly and, accordingly, will immediately lose its advantageous features.

Specialists strongly advise builders and owners not to save on the purchase of building materials, as this will require material investments over time. High-quality materials, as well as proper vapor barrier in a frame house, will provide the most comfortable indoor climate and will retain the overall performance of the building for a long time.

Vapor barrier in a wooden house. Everyone who builds a frame wooden house asks about this first of all! I already wrote about vapor barrier and waterproofing, but I decided to separately cover the topic of combating steam, since errors in vapor barrier are very critical for the future home.

What is vapor barrier
Which side to lay (lay) the vapor barrier?
Vapor barrier for the walls of a frame / wooden house
Vapor barrier of partitions
Vapor barrier between floors
FAQ. Film FAQs

What is vapor barrier?

vapor barrier- this is any film with low vapor permeability, which is mounted in a frame house from the INSIDE to prevent steam from getting into the insulation and keep the latter from constant wetting.

Do not confuse it with waterproofing, which is placed outside and is needed to protect the wooden frame from moisture! They use special membranes.

Do I need a vapor barrier for a frame house

Yes. The technology of frame housing construction necessarily implies the presence of vapor barrier materials in the walls, in the floor and ceilings! We must create a complete contour of the vapor barrier, which is why often the framers are called "thermos houses".

Why do you need a vapor barrier film:

does not allow the insulation to get wet (does not let moisture into it)
stabilizes the climate in the frame house

For this, a special vapor barrier material is used, spunbond and other films will not work.

Which side to lay (lay) the vapor barrier?

And you take an ordinary vapor barrier film, then you won’t need to look at the wrong side. But if you have already taken a specialized steam film, then look at the instructions. EVERYTHING is written there. Just don't be lazy or force the builders.

In addition to the manufacturer, no one knows how to properly lay the vapor barrier of his production, each of them has its own notes. But it is logical that a part with his brand be inside and we can see it, they did their best for us!

At Izospana-B everything is simple. A rough surface inside, moisture remains on it, the smooth side of this vapor film is placed against the insulation.

This concludes the questions about how to lay the vapor barrier. You can go to the website of the vapor barrier film manufacturer and look at the exact information there, for example, on the Yutafol website (Isospan does not have a normal website).

Vapor barrier for the walls of a frame house

In the walls of a wooden or frame house, steam is isolated BEFORE the wall, that is, inside. You can’t lock it from the outside, the walls will rot.

Vapor barrier of frame house partitions

Partitions do not need to be vapor-insulated, with the exception of damp rooms. It's really better to put a PE film on the inside! But not on both sides of the wall.

If you are worried that the insulation will collect dust and get into your lungs - put a vapor-permeable membrane in the partitions on both sides!

Vapor barrier floor and ceiling in a frame house

You can vapor barrier the floor with a film (standard), but it can be a little easier - lining under the laminate + plywood or OSB on the floor gives a good result. Or even linoleum. The floor is not the place where most of the steam goes, because the steam goes mostly up!

The ceiling is more difficult. The ceiling needs to be vapor-proofed exactly with a film, because all the steam goes up. I have a text about how it looks in my house - Installing a wooden crate on the ceiling.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in a frame house

It is NOT necessary to vapor barrier the ceiling between floors, as there is warm air from above and below. But the upper floor is another matter, there we work the same way as with the ceiling.

FAQ. Frequently asked questions about the vapor barrier of a frame house

Vapor barrier. Inside or outside?

Of course inside! Steam goes from hot to cold.

What vapor barrier to choose for the walls of a frame house

For walls, and in general, the best vapor barrier for a frame house is an ordinary plastic film 200 microns thick (not thinner).

But if you really want that you can buy Isospan or Yutafol vapor barrier, but for me it's a waste of money. Americans usually use polyethylene and without any brands.

Is it possible to have a frame house without vapor barrier?

In some climates, such as southern climates, it is indeed possible to build frame houses without a vapor barrier film. But these options are individual and you need to calculate pies and dew point very clearly. I wouldn't experiment like that

Do I need to glue the vapor barrier and how?

Yes! The film can be glued either with special butyl rubber tape or with glue. The only way is right, it is impossible not to glue the vapor barrier.

How to make vapor barrier on video:

Thermal insulation in frame houses is the main means of retaining heat. The walls are 75% made of insulation, for which special conditions must be created. It loses its positive properties under the influence of moisture from the inside. It is important that the thermal insulation fits snugly against the frame. To do this, it must always remain dry, which also requires a vapor barrier of the frame house: walls, floor, ceiling and roof.

The use of vapor barrier in the frame house insulation system

Vapor barrier characteristics

A vapor barrier is a porous membrane that can significantly reduce the negative process of moisture accumulation in thermal insulation. The porous layer allows the house to "breathe", providing air exchange. In this case, the greenhouse effect is excluded. Up to 35% of air is let through by wooden structures.

The mistake of many owners is to protect the frame house from the inside with plastic wrap. Over time, water accumulates under it, causing rotting of wooden structures.

The vapor barrier is not a film with many holes, but a complex multilayer porous package. It is tightly laid with the rough side inside the house, and the smooth side - to the insulation. This is necessary so that moisture settles better on a rough surface, and subsequently evaporates freely.

Features of laying vapor barrier when insulating a house

The film is the same on both sides. Then there is no difference which side it will face the thermal insulation. In any case, before installation, read the instructions for the specific type of membrane.

Many membranes have a specific structure. They can have a specific purpose: for residential and non-residential buildings or for rooms with different humidity. The material is selected depending on the way buildings are used, the characteristics of the region, the conditions of use, etc.

In rooms with a humid environment and elevated temperatures, membranes are needed that differ in properties from those used in ordinary homes. For example, reflective aluminum screens are used in saunas and baths.

Vapor barrier of the walls and ceiling of the bath

Thus, the vapor barrier protects the structure of the house from water vapor only partially.

Features of vapor barrier frame houses

Vapor barrier for the outer walls of a frame house is made according to a scheme that is in many ways similar to other types of houses. The only difference is that the supporting structures do not perform the function of insulation here.

Walls in cross section look like this:

external finishing with siding, clapboard or OSB boards;
waterproofing film;
frame;
thermal insulation;
vapor barrier;
crate;
interior decoration.

At first glance, it seems that the vapor barrier is easy to lay, you just need to fix it by turning it in the right direction. Fixation is carried out using a construction stapler or galvanized nails, with sealing of joints with adhesive tape.

Fastening the vapor barrier with a construction stapler

Basic rules to follow:

it is unacceptable to leave membrane ruptures;
the number of folds should be minimal;
gluing and sealing of seams must be of high quality;
the places of contact of the tree with the vapor barrier are treated with an antiseptic;
the diffusion membrane can be laid directly on the thermal insulation, in other cases a gap of about 5 cm is left between them;
it is not allowed to confuse the sides of the membrane when laying.

Any miscalculation will lead to the fact that the insulation will cease to perform its functions after a short time. As a result, you will have to re-insulate the house. Not all owners or builders are able to show the necessary accuracy during installation, and it lasts for 2-3 seasons, after which the insulation gets wet and stops working properly.

The installation technology provides for laying the vapor barrier from top to bottom. The overlap is made at least 100 mm with sizing tape designed for it. The connection to wooden structures should be carefully checked.

Depending on the type of insulation, sometimes a vapor barrier is not required. A similar decision is made when foam, ecowool and polyurethane foam are used. When using such thermal insulation, the exit of moisture from the premises is difficult. Therefore, it is necessary to create their high-quality ventilation. In such a situation, forced air intake and exhaust are needed.

Vapor barrier is not required in houses without additional insulation, when the walls are built of brick or foam blocks. Also, it is not done on the interior partitions of the house. The insulation absorbs steam in the event of a temperature difference on the outer walls.

Frame house vapor barrier schemes

Differences in the construction of houses provide different conditions for the removal of moisture from the premises.

Double vapor barrier

If the wall is finished on both sides with poorly “breathable” materials (tile, oilcloth, plastic), moisture can accumulate between them. To eliminate this negative effect, a ventilation gap is made between the wall and the cladding. At the same time, you need to make sure that air circulates in it and leaves somewhere.

Basic vapor barrier schemes

Moisture protection in frame houses is usually done in two ways:

The membrane is attached to the racks of the frame, and then the interior is finished (Fig. a below).
On top of the vapor barrier film, a horizontal or vertical crate is installed, on which the cladding is attached. As a result, a ventilation gap of 4-5 cm is formed inside (Fig. b).

Ways of vapor barrier of the walls of a frame house

The latter option is preferably done with permanent residence in the house, when there is a risk of moisture accumulation between the walls. Without an air gap, it is allowed to build buildings for temporary visits. They are ventilated with the installation of a box. Be sure to make an extract from rooms with high humidity.

When equipping a house with effective ventilation, the role of vapor barrier is reduced. Here it serves only as an additional insurance against the accumulation of moisture in the walls.

Vapor barrier for external insulation of the house

The vapor barrier cannot be laid on a smooth wooden surface.. First, slats 2.5 cm thick are stuffed onto the wall in increments of 1 m, and a membrane is attached to them with a stapler. It should be facing the rough or fleecy side outward, and the smooth side to the wall. Then a crate is stuffed on top, thermal insulation is laid on it, and a waterproofing film is stretched on top. After that, the final exterior decoration of the house is carried out.

External insulation of the house

The method provides a special microclimate in a house made of logs, timber or a frame structure, since there is no need to cover the tree inside with a finishing material.

The disadvantage of this option is the need to dry the structure, which takes several years. Additional work is also added to protect the joints with sealant and seal the grooves on both sides. Only hydrophobic materials can be used for insulation.

Vapor barrier of the floor in a wooden house

Hydro and vapor barriers are needed for an insulated floor due to the action of two factors:

moisture from the basement or basement passing through the ground;
steam from the premises.

When insulating the floor, waterproofing is first laid in the space between the lags on the subfloor. Film strips are placed with overlapping and gluing with special adhesive tape.

Plates or rolls of insulation 15 cm thick are placed in the cells of the frame, and then covered with a vapor barrier film. It also requires overlapping and gluing joints.

Boards 30 cm thick and in increments of 40-60 cm are placed across the log. They are fastened with self-tapping screws or other suitable fasteners. Due to them, a ventilation gap is created between the floor and the vapor barrier.

Across the crate, a tongue-and-groove floorboard of 25-30 mm or edged board of 40-50 mm is tightly laid and fastened. From above the finishing floor covering is arranged.

Floor insulation on the first floor

The use of vapor barrier for the floor is effective only together with a breathable insulation. Styrofoam and similar materials are not suitable here. It is advisable to use mineral wool with a density of 37-57 kg / m3, since there is no load on it in the floor structure.

Ceiling insulation and vapor barrier

Up to 80% of frame houses are insulated with mineral wool. In addition to it, expanded polystyrene, ecowool, expanded clay, etc. are used.

The ceiling is insulated as follows:

A vapor barrier film is stretched onto the beams from below and attached to them with a stapler. Then the board is stuffed in increments of about 40 cm.
Mineral wool is laid tightly on top of the entire ceiling. At the same time, the walls are lapped. With a thickness of 50 mm boards, they should be laid in three layers to create a standard size of 150 mm. They are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, and the ceiling beams are covered with the top layer.
From above, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film if the attic is made warm. It is rolled out over the entire ceiling with an overlap of at least 10 cm and sealing of the joints. If the attic is unheated, such protection from above can be omitted.
The floor is laid on top of the insulation. Between it and the vapor barrier there should be a ventilation gap of about 5 cm.

A properly laid ceiling “pie” prevents the accumulation of moisture in the insulation both from below and from above.

Roof insulation and vapor barrier

The roof is insulated like walls, but there are some features here. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters. It is fixed by a crate on which the roof is attached. After that, insulation boards are inserted between the rafters. It is better to take them rigid so that the material does not deform.

Plates are installed with a gap from the waterproofing film. It is necessary for ventilation and removal of moisture that forms under the roof. For better circulation, two conclusions are made from the gap - from different sides of the house. It is advisable to choose a fireproof material.

Roof insulation

Waterproofing must be airtight, otherwise moisture will get on the insulation, and it will lose a significant proportion of its useful properties.

From the inside, a vapor barrier is nailed to the rafters and a crate is installed. A facing material is attached to it. These can be QSB-plates, drywall, etc. For cladding, a frame of profiles is installed, as for walls.

With high-quality insulation and reliable protection against moisture in the attic, you can install a heating system. Then at any time of the year it will be a full-fledged living space.

Video: frame house insulation

Laying vapor barrier in a frame house is carried out taking into account the sequence, the specifics of installation, as well as the features of the technology. If there is a non-residential premises under the roof, it can not be insulated, but thermal insulation significantly reduces noise during rain.

The correct choice and installation of vapor barrier membranes fully ensures their useful functions in protecting the frame house from moisture.

IZOSPAN in internal walls (interior partitions)

Finishing
counter rake
Vapor barrier Izospan V
insulation

When erecting internal walls (partitions) in a room, it is extremely important to ensure that the following conditions are met:

vapor barrier of the partition structure and the insulation included in it (heat and sound insulation);
dust removal of the internal space of the room from the penetration of small particles of insulation into it;
corrosion protection (mold, fungus, etc.)

The two-layer polypropylene vapor barrier film "IZOSPAN B" effectively copes with these tasks. It is she who is recommended for use in the construction of internal frame walls (partitions). Instead of the Izospan-V film, other IZOSPAN materials can be used in the construction of internal frame walls:

The layout of these IZOSPAN materials is similar to the installation of "Izospan V".

Buy roof insulation/sten?

We will deliver together with vapor barrier and OSB. Stock! Have questions?

BUY ISOROK INSULATION FOR ROOFING

Installation instructions "Izospan V" in the construction of partitions (internal frame walls)

The vapor barrier film "Izospan V" is laid on the load-bearing elements of the partition frame (beams, racks) or along the rough sheathing on both sides of the insulation (heat-insulating layer) with the smooth side inward - to the insulation.

In order not to forget how to install vapor barrier, you need to remember a simple rule: the rough side of the vapor barrier ensures the retention of drops of condensate that forms at the “dew point” - the contact boundary between warm and cold air. In the future, these drops of condensate evaporate due to ventilation in a specially equipped ventilation gap.

If this temporary retention of condensate drops is not provided, chaotically flowing moisture can cause wetting of underlying structures, which, as a result of this wetting, will collapse prematurely.

Vapor barrier "Izospan V" is pre-tensioned and fixed with a construction stapler or galvanized nails. Laying of vapor barrier sheets is carried out from the bottom up with horizontal panels. The next panel of vapor barrier is mounted with an overlap with a mandatory overlap at the joints of at least 15 cm.

Further, the vapor barrier is finally fixed with wooden antiseptic counter-battens or galvanized profiles (depending on the finishing material of the room). The thickness of these profiles (counter rails) sets the value of the ventilation gap (minimum 4x5 cm). The interior decoration of the room is also attached to them.

To ensure maximum tightness of the vapor barrier (especially in rooms with high humidity), it is recommended to glue the Izospan V vapor barrier panels together with the Izospan KL or Izospan SL connecting tape.

The places where the Izospan B vapor barrier film adjoins wooden, concrete and other surfaces are recommended to be glued with Izospan ML proff adhesive tape to eliminate wetting and corrosion of these surfaces under the film.

The main mistakes of the vapor barrier

The device of external walls.

Installation of vapor barrier on the outside of the frame house. Steam will pass through the entire finish, and accumulate in the insulation. The vapor barrier layer must be located inside the building, wind protection will be sufficient from the outside;
Installing poor vapor barrier in a tiled bathroom. In this situation, water and steam penetrate through the tile joints. All this automatically leads to a violation of not only tightness, but also the strength and reliability of fixing the finishing material in the frame house;
Lack of moisture protection in walls insulated with mineral wool and its analogues. The absence of vapor barrier layers is permissible only if the walls are insulated with foam;
Carrying out poor quality work. The processes associated with the installation of vapor barrier in a frame house must be carried out as clearly as possible, following the instructions. Even the most minor flaws and neglect of the rules will lead to damage.

We insulate the ceiling.

Vapor barrier materials

Modern manufacturers offer a huge variety of vapor barrier materials. What vapor barrier to choose for a frame house? The most popular of them include the following options:

Reinforced polyethylene. A material that is becoming increasingly rare and popular solely because of its affordable cost. It is used in such a process as the vapor barrier of the floor of a frame house. In the process of its use, maximum care and strict adherence to the instructions is required. Otherwise, the frame house can turn into a steam room, that is, humid air will accumulate in the house, making living not very comfortable.
Various types of masks. These are special mixtures that are applied to the walls of the structure before the external finishing of the frame house. Bituminous kukersol mastic, which is ideally breathable, and is sold at an affordable cost, is popular. Any type perfectly collects and retains water, completely preserving the frame of the house in its original form. This is possible only with the correct installation of the vapor barrier of the frame house.

Partition wall insulation.

Ruberoid. Suitable for finishing modern frame buildings. The main feature of the material is the need for preliminary arrangement of a wooden crate 50 by 50 mm. Modern roofing material is universal and affordable.
Vapor barrier films. This is a unique option with which you can create a high-quality vapor barrier for the walls of a frame house. Vapor barrier films reliably protect the structure and insulation from moisture. All this ensures the most comfortable stay in buildings built using frame technology.

Vapor barrier for walls

Adhesive construction tape with a double-sided special coating is construction tape.
Various measuring instruments and standard scissors.
You need metal staples, a hammer, and nails.
The main vapor barrier material.

Frame wall pie.

On a note

The arrangement of the vapor barrier of the walls of the frame house should be carried out after the installation of the outer layer of wind protection, as well as the layer of insulation.

Wall vapor barrier sequence

The slats and the frame itself are carefully treated with special disinfectants.
Walls are being measured.
According to the obtained dimensions, elements of vapor barrier materials are cut out. In this case, an overlap of 10 mm must be taken into account.
The material is fixed. Fasteners are installed strictly around the perimeter, and rails and a construction stapler are used here. It all depends on the base used. Installation must be done from the bottom and up. Material elements must be placed strictly horizontally. At the joints, you need to use adhesive tape, and it is important to overlap the material itself.

The vapor barrier of the walls and interfloor ceilings of the frame house was made in accordance with all the rules and after that it is worth taking care of the availability. By the way, the vapor barrier of the partitions of the frame house is not required, because in the internal neighboring rooms the temperature does not differ from each other. But ventilation should take place between the finish and the protection layer. This will help prevent condensation from building up inside.

Basalt wool in insulation.

Vapor barrier between floors

Interfloor pie.

Proper vapor barrier

Properly made at the construction stage, vapor barrier for the walls of a frame house will help to keep the heat in the rooms in the future and protect it from moisture. This will provide not only comfort and coziness, but also give additional strength. A building with a properly installed vapor barrier will last much longer without requiring constant repairs.

It is believed that such an element as a vapor barrier for frame walls can be neglected. Especially when building a summer house, which will be used more often in warm and dry weather, that is, in summer. However, it should be remembered that the vapor barrier membrane and other elements of such protection will ensure the integrity and safety of the building.

The structure must be carefully protected from steam. Otherwise, insulating materials, absorbing moisture, will change their original shape. This will lead to the formation of free space inside the wall cake. There will be cracks, holes, voids, etc.

A frame house without a vapor barrier layer in the wall cake will not be able to retain heat. Membranes, films and other similar materials with low vapor permeability precede the absorption of wet steam into the insulation layer. After all, such buildings are often insulated with materials on a hygroscopic basis. For example, cotton mats. Under the influence of moisture, the building will gradually collapse and become unusable.

Vapor barrier will help to avoid such problems. When purchasing materials from which a frame house or outbuildings will be built, it is necessary to add a film, membrane, etc. to the estimate.

Vapor barrier inside or outside

It is preferable to lay the vapor barrier of the house from the inside than from the outside. In this option, the condensate formed under the influence of wet steam does not accumulate in the wall pie. Some of the moisture is expelled to the outside. To keep dry and warm inside, wind protection is installed on the outside of the frame house.

For rooms with a high level of humidity (bathroom, room, kitchen, sauna, etc.), an additional barrier is installed to protect against moisture - tiles, etc. This will enhance the effectiveness of such membranes that protect the building from moisture and steam.

What vapor barrier to choose for the walls of a frame house

To decide which vapor barrier to choose for the walls of a frame house, a preliminary acquaintance with the properties of different materials and prices on the market will help.

To protect the building from moisture will help:

polyethylene film - PE;
foil vapor barrier membranes;
diffuse membranes for moisture protection.

Polyethylene film has the lowest cost. It must be chosen, focusing on the strength of this material.

Foil and diffuse membranes provide increased vapor protection. They perfectly protect the walls of the bathroom, toilet room, kitchen, etc.

The sequence of vapor barrier walls of a frame house

To protect the building from moisture and increase the strength of the building, the wall cake is laid in several layers. First, the frame is built, the insulation and waterproofing are laid.

To install a vapor barrier you will need:

stapler;
stainless steel staples;
technical knife;
ladder.

On the inside, the vapor barrier is laid last. The film or membrane is stapled with an overlap to the frame elements. On the internal walls of a room with high humidity, a vapor barrier is laid on both sides. Installing a vapor barrier from the outside must be done to protect the building from the ingress and accumulation of sedimentary moisture.

External installation of a vapor barrier film is carried out after laying the insulation material. On top of the protective membrane, walls are erected that make up the frame house.

The insulation that is used when erecting a building does not need to be glued with vapor barrier materials on both sides. In this case, moisture will accumulate. This will lead to the loss of heat and the gradual destruction of the wall cake.

When laying the vapor barrier outside, it is necessary to leave free space between the membrane (film) and the wall. This will ensure constant air circulation and prevent moisture from accumulating inside the wall cake.

Providing clearance is easy. The vapor barrier is attached with a stapler to the frame racks directly on the insulation layer. A crate is carefully mounted on top of the membrane or film. For it, wooden slats measuring 2x5 cm or 3x5 cm are used.

The finished crate must be sheathed with sheets of LSU, DSP, OSB or a board. Plaster is applied over the lining or siding is laid.

Without an air gap, as moisture accumulates, the building will suffer from fungus, mold, etc. A special membrane must be laid on top of the vapor barrier to protect against wind. This will keep the heat in.

The vapor barrier should not be abandoned. Many heaters are based on cotton wool or other hygroscopic materials. Moisture will accumulate in them. A fungus, mold may appear, the process of decay may begin. In this case, the frame structure will quickly become unusable.

Do I need to glue the vapor barrier and how

The vapor barrier must be airtight. Therefore, membranes or films fixed on the inside of the walls are glued with a special moisture-resistant adhesive tape. This is a vapor barrier tape that has an adhesive layer on both sides.

For external vapor barrier, it is better to cover the frame house with a material on which a layer of moisture-resistant glue has already been applied. The protective coating is removed immediately before laying. Then the membrane must be laid with an adhesive layer on the insulation. Smooth out and press lightly. Work is best done with an assistant. If the vapor barrier is not glued during installation, the building cannot be considered completely protected from moisture.

A good option is a special mastic. It effectively protects against moisture. It is necessary to apply the mastic in several layers (especially on the outer walls and upper floors) as the previous layer dries. In this case, you can do without gluing. Mastic lays down in an airtight layer and protects the frame house well.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in a frame house

If the frame house is built on 2 floors, the internal floors (between floors) can not be covered with a vapor barrier. The only exceptions are rooms with a high level of moisture - kitchen, bathroom, toilet room, sauna, etc.

Mandatory protection against steam is necessary for floors covering the building from above and forming the floor of the attic. The vapor barrier in this case is attached to the inside of the house, i.e. to the beams that form the basis of the ceiling.

The frame house is equipped with a basement located under the floor. In this case, vapor barrier is also necessary. A protective film (membrane) is attached over the ceilings that form the basement ceiling and floors.

In both cases, the vapor barrier for floors is overlapped with a mandatory institution on the walls by 30 cm. The film is attached to the beams with a stapler. Additionally, you can also lay a tape with an adhesive coating. For example, butyl rubber tape.

Poorly executed vapor barrier of a frame house

The material that will protect against steam and moisture must be chosen especially carefully. After all, a frame house has a reduced strength, since its walls are approximately 50% composed of insulating materials.

The frame house receives additional strength and durability during the installation and installation of a vapor barrier membrane or film. Therefore, the whole process must be carried out carefully, carefully following the instructions.

A properly installed vapor barrier will allow walls and ceilings to breathe. This means that the moisture absorbed by building materials will gradually evaporate in dry weather. The building will not dry out from lack of moisture and will not rot from its excess.

To increase the effectiveness of vapor barrier, it is desirable to equip a frame house with a good ventilation system. This will ensure free air circulation in the interior of the building.

In the warm season, the room must be periodically ventilated.