How to make the walls in the steam room. The device of the Russian bath: do it right

Without a steam room, a bathhouse becomes an ordinary room where people wash themselves. It is steam that has healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives strength and good spirits. At first glance, the arrangement of the steam room is not particularly difficult. This small room has a minimum of architectural delights. However, when arranging it, it is necessary to observe a number of important rules. Only then will the steam room be able to bring real pleasure to lovers of a real Russian bath.

Project selection

It is necessary to design a steam room even before the construction of the bath begins. Its dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

The first sketch below shows a small bathhouse with a steam room, in which only sitting people are placed on the shelves.

The other two drawings schematically show more spacious rooms in which you can bathe already lying down.

1), 10), 11) Clothes hanger, wardrobe.
5), 7) Benches.
2) Recreation room.
6) Shelves.
3) Steam room.
8) Doors.
4) Washing room.
9) Furnace.

Schematically depicting the location of the stove and shelves in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying mistakes during construction.

Type, power and dimensions of the stove. According to fire safety standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)), the stove should be located in the bath at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected non-combustible materials, then you need to retreat 26 cm from them.

The iron stove has high power, compact size and the ability to quickly heat even a large steam room. However, its surface is very hot, there is a risk of accidental burns in case of careless actions. In view of this. in the steam room, there should be a free distance between the shelves and the iron stove.

An example of installing a metal stove in a steam room

A brick heater does not heat up so quickly and its size is much larger than that of a metal one. However, it keeps heat longer and it is impossible to seriously burn yourself about it. Therefore, there is no need to locate the furnace at a considerable distance from the shelves.

In the case of installing an electric heater, it makes sense to make the steam room as small as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

So, when planning a steam room, you should carefully consider everything at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof are erected, you can proceed directly to work on the internal arrangement of the steam room.

Floor installation

The floor in the entire bath is done first. The level of the floor in the steam room should be higher than the level of the clean floor in the washroom.

There are several options for its device.

Wooden floor

The simplest is the installation of a wooden floor. To do this, support logs are installed on the foundation.

Planed boards 50 mm thick are screwed onto them at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

It is important that at least 50 cm remain between the floor and the ground level, and there are holes in the foundation for fresh air to enter.

This will provide good, natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will dry out evenly after the end of the bath procedures. However, this option for arranging the floor should only be used in areas with a warm and temperate climate. In northern areas, such ventilation can cause the heat from the steam room to dissipate too quickly.

Video - Floors in the bath along the logs with insulation

Concrete floor

A concrete floor in a steam room can last much longer than wood. However, the cost of its arrangement will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally lay a finishing coating on it.

Before starting work on the installation of a cement screed in the steam room and washing room, a pit 10 to 15 cm deep should be dug for water drainage. Its walls can be fixed with cement or tiles. An iron grate is laid on top of it. From the pit, water will go through the drain pipe into the sewer.

Once the water drain is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the screed.

The level of the clean floor in the steam room should be higher than in the washing room. Therefore, before starting work on the walls, a mark is made to which the floor structure will reach. And then lay down the distance from it, which is necessary for laying all layers of the screed.

The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

IllustrationDescription

	the site is carefully leveled, if necessary, the upper part of the soil is removed
	pour a 30-40 cm layer of sand and gravel, spill it with water, ram it, making a slope towards the drain hole
	pour the first layer of concrete 5 cm thick
	after the screed has dried, strips of waterproofing material (roofing material, glass isol) are rolled out on it
	ON THE waterproofing material lay insulation with a thickness of 50 mm
	mount reinforcing metal carcass masonry mesh
	pour a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick
	level the concrete with a board or a rule, not forgetting to make a slight slope in the direction of the sewer hole
	laying tiles or gratings from boards

Video - Drain from the bath

Vapor barrier and ceiling finish

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the steam room is of paramount importance, since the hot air from the stove rises exactly up. Therefore, the presence of places on the ceiling through which it could freely go outside is unacceptable.

Ceiling insulation work is carried out in the following sequence.

WorkIllustration

Hydrovapor barrier is attached to the floor beams. It could be: foil with a density of at least 100 microns; foil penoizol with a thickness of 5 to 10 mm; hydrovapor barrier membrane "Izospan", "Megaflex", etc. For installation, a construction stapler and staples with a height of 8 to 12 mm are used. The tool must be well adjusted to prevent breaks in the protective membrane. The strips are fastened with an overlap of at least 20 cm, the joints between them are carefully glued with aluminum tape. At the edges, the insulation should go on the walls of the steam room by 15 cm.
After attaching the waterproofing to the floor beams, wooden slats 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick are screwed strictly according to the level. The distance between them should be no more than 70 cm. Before installation, they are treated with an antiseptic composition.
To the slats, lining made of linden, birch or aspen is fastened. Finishing material is placed perpendicular to the boards of the crate. Installation begins on the opposite side of the door. Fastening is carried out either on galvanized nails or on kleimers.
From the side of the attic, grooves are made in the floor beams and transverse fasteners for the chimney are inserted into them.
On the ceiling cut a rectangular opening under the chimney.
Between the floor beams in the attic, a layer of insulation with a thickness of 150 to 200 mm is laid.
A wind and vapor barrier membrane is rolled out over the insulation and fixed with a furniture stapler.
Then the floor boards are installed in the attic.

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bath are built of foam blocks or frame technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation. Inside, you should get a thermos impervious to cold, which will perfectly retain the heat emanating from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room for a long time.

Before starting work, an opening is cut in the wall for installing the furnace.

Then a wind and vapor barrier film is attached to the walls.

At the next stage, basalt non-combustible insulation is tightly laid between the bars.

After that, hydrovapor barrier is nailed to the bars with galvanized brackets.

As a protective material can be used:

foil with a density of 150 to 200 microns;

foil foamed penoizol;

bath waterproofing membrane

Strips of moisture-resistant material are nailed with staples with an overlap of at least 15 cm, the joints are sealed with a special adhesive tape.

Then, rails 25 mm thick and 30 to 50 mm wide are horizontally attached to the bars with galvanized self-tapping screws at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The crate should be installed as evenly as possible, for this you should use a laser level or plumb line. Start the installation with the two extreme rails, then pull the cord between them. And already focusing on it, they nail the rest of the crate.

At the next stage, the lining board is directly fastened. To do this, use either ordinary galvanized nails 40-50 mm long, or special kleimers.

The principle of fastening the clamps in the groove of the board

Finally, even holes for ventilation are cut in the walls. From above they are masked with plugs or shutters. If necessary, a fan is mounted in the supply or exhaust opening.

If the walls in the steam room are made of logs or profiled timber, then they do not require such thorough insulation. In this case, it will be enough to fix foil or foil penoizol on them. Then nail the crate and install the lining.

Furnace installation

The stove in the steam room can be installed iron, brick or electric. A place for it should be chosen at the design stage of the bath. The furnace firebox can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.

Installation procedure in a steam iron furnace:

The electric oven is installed on a pre-prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require the installation of a chimney.

Be sure to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.

brick oven

A brick oven is laid out even at the construction stage of the bath.

Only that part of it, in which there will be stones, should go into the steam room. The firebox is best placed in the dressing room or on the street.

Video - The secrets of building a bath

Door installation

The door in the steam room is installed last. It should close tightly and not let heat out. Doors made of solid wood or tempered glass are best suited for this purpose.

Installation wooden door consists of the following steps:

a doorway is adjusted under the casing;

the “casing” cannot be screwed to the beam, it must move freely along the grooves, the gaps between it and the wall are carefully caulked;

Another way to install a wooden door is to cut grooves in the opening.

Wooden bars are installed in them so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And the door frame is already directly attached to them.

Fixing the pigtail to the rail and hanging the door

Glass doors are mounted on special hinges.

Video - Casing under a plastic window in a log house

Video - Okosyachka (part 1)

Video - Okosyachka (part 2)

Video - Okosyachka (part 3)

How to make shelves

The number of shelves in the steam room depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the growth of the owners of the bath. In the standard version, three-level shelves are allowed, each of which is 35 cm high. However, it is also possible to have two shelves. In a small steam room, the lower level of the bench can be equipped sliding mechanism and move out as needed.

First you need to choose the shape of the shelves and assemble the frame. It is best to make it from larch. There are many options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

Wooden shields are laid on top of the installed frame.

The boards in them should be located loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Shields should be made from linden or aspen. Coniferous trees are not suitable for this purpose, because under the influence high temperatures resin comes out of them.

Efficient ventilation

An important stage in the arrangement of the steam room is ventilation. In its absence, a long stay in the steam room becomes unsafe for human health. Incorrect installation of air ducts can lead to heat loss and extra costs on fuel for full heating of the room.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room. This will lead to large heat losses, and hence a decrease in the effectiveness of taking bath procedures.

The most common are several options for the location of ventilation ducts in the steam room.

Layout optionScheme or illustration

	The inflow of oxygen comes from the opening, which is located behind the furnace, a fan is mounted in it. The distance from the floor is 25 cm. The outflow is carried out naturally through the gateway, which is located on the opposite wall. The lower it is located, the better.

During the direct adoption of bath procedures, the ventilation holes in the walls can be closed with valves. And then open them as needed.

Galvanized or stainless steel pipes should be used as ventilation ducts. It is not recommended to use plastic structures in the steam room. Pipes must be fastened to special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust channel should be slightly larger than the supply one.

Having decided on the ventilation scheme, holes of the required sizes should be made in the walls or floor.

Their diameter depends on the area of ​​the ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventilation channels into them.

The remaining distance between the wall and the pipe must be laid with non-combustible insulation. From the side of the street, fix the protective grille.

Electricity

At the final stage of arranging the steam room, the installation of electrical wiring is performed. All switches and junction boxes must be located outside the steam room and shower room.

The wires are laid in the corrugation over the lining.

In the steam room, they are covered with wooden skirting boards from above.

Fixtures in the steam room should be protected by wooden bars.

Video - The device of the Russian bath

How to make a steam room in the bath correctly and beautifully

The quality of manufacturing a steam room directly determines the convenience of using the bath, how safe the bath procedures will be, as well as the presentability of the steam room, the cost of construction and further maintenance. In this article with photo and video materials, we will try to tell you more about how to make a steam room in a bath correctly.

The advantages of building a steam room with your own hands:

1. There is no need to hire third-party specialists, to spend additional money on their services, which greatly helps to save money.
2. You will personally control all the work, so you can be completely confident in the effectiveness of its implementation.

In order to build a bath with a steam room with your own hands, you should first arrange the order of work and follow the existing instructions and rules.

Creating a steam room project

First of all, a project is prepared, at least the simplest one, so that the plan for future work is clear. The main thing in the steam room is the stove, because there are a lot of them, and each of them imposes its own requirements on the dimensions of the steam room, the type of ventilation system, the place of installation of future shelves, and so on.

When determining the size when arranging a steam room with your own hands, you should take into account the possible number of people visiting the bath at the same time. This is very important, since it is necessary that all of them feel comfortable in the steam room, and that there is no idle space in the bath, which also requires heating costs. Most often, a steam room is built with dimensions of 2400 × 2000 mm with a height of 2200 mm.

The construction of the steam room does not provide for the installation of windows, since artificial lighting will be quite enough. It should be noted that for each installed window thermal insulation will need to be considered, which entails additional costs. It is allowed to install one blind window no more than 50 × 50 cm. At the same time, in order to make the steam room properly, you should pay attention to the highest quality double-glazed windows that have maximum efficiency in terms of sound and heat insulation.

Before you make a steam room in the bath, consider the correct ventilation system in the project. Without normal circulation of air flows, the tree will quickly become unusable due to constant excessive humidity - mold will form over time, and the microclimate itself will cease to be useful for humans.

After completing the creation of the project, it will become clearer how to make a steam room in the bath with your own hands, and you can proceed directly to the implementation of your plan. At the preparatory stage, it is recommended to carry out work on the arrangement of thermal insulation in the steam room.

Steam room insulation process

Thermal insulation should be thought out especially carefully, otherwise more fuel will have to be spent on heating the bath and maintaining the desired temperature.

On the initial stage the ceiling is being prepared for insulation. It can simply be sheathed with foam boards, temporarily securing them with any available means, and then sheathed with moisture-resistant plywood or other material of similar properties. The insulation is laid between the beams, while the minimum thickness of the plates should be 10 cm. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the plates, and the base under the plates must also be covered with plastic wrap. See also: "How to make a steam room insulation correctly and what materials to use."

The next step is to insulate the walls. First, a frame is made from a square wooden beam 50 × 50 cm, which is attached to the wall. The step is chosen so that between the bars the sheets of insulation can easily lie down. As a rule, for walls, an acceptable thickness of insulation is 5 cm.

Joints adjacent between the plates are glued with metallized adhesive tape. Mineral wool can be used as a wall insulation. In this case, a plastic film or other water-repellent material is also fixed under the insulation.

The floors in the steam rooms should not be insulated, but if there is still a desire, then you can limit yourself to filling expanded clay with subsequent pouring of a cement screed. And then lay tiles or install wood flooring.

As an interior decoration of the steam room, as a rule, wooden lining is used.

First of all, shelves and benches are mounted, and after that they move on to clapboard lining. Coniferous trees are best suited as a material, because they emit very nice smell and at the same time, when heated, they can have a healing effect on the body.

The lining is fastened to a pre-laid insulation and other materials to protect against moisture. The boards are installed close to each other, and galvanized self-tapping screws can be used as fasteners.

Bath floor installation

It is possible to build a bath with a steam room as high as possible if you carry out the correct floor finishing. The material used should not be afraid of frequent and sudden changes in both temperature and humidity levels. Aspen is best suited from wood species - it is inexpensive and has a pleasant appearance, besides, it is easy to process and lasts a very long time. Benches in the bath are best attached to the wall, so you can save some space.

In addition, there is an alternative way to cover the floor in the bath - this is the use of ceramic tiles. This coating makes it possible to make the steam room in the bath easier than ever to operate.

First, the base is cleaned and covered with a layer of a mixture of gravel and sand 15 cm thick. Then the backfill is compacted and poured cement mortar, 5 cm thick, and leveled. Finally, after the mortar has hardened, lay the tile.

Deciding on a stove among a huge range, you can find brick and metal structures that can be powered either by electricity or burn solid or liquid fuels. And each variety will have its pros and cons.

In metal furnaces, the following disadvantages can be distinguished:

• their cooling after shutdown occurs quite quickly;
• touching a hot metal, you can get a burn, which will require all safety measures to be provided for the steam room when installing it.

In a brick oven, only the need to lay an independent foundation before it is installed can be considered a disadvantage.

Recently, furnaces powered by the mains have shown themselves well. For them, you do not need to install a chimney, and the installation is quite capable of doing it yourself. However, the operation of electrical appliances in saunas requires a careful approach and following a number of precautions, the neglect of which can lead to events that can be detrimental to steam room visitors.

Soapstone furnaces deserve special attention. These are the latest units, which are notable for their ability to carry out gradual and even heating of the steam room. They radiate pleasant and soft warmth comparable to that produced by the sun.

It is preferable to place the oven in the corner closest to the door. It is considered the safest, and, moreover, saves free space.

Steam room door installation

At the final stage of the construction of the steam room, it will be necessary to install the door. In this process, it should be borne in mind that the door frame should be lower than usual, and the threshold should be higher than is customary in houses. This approach makes it possible to reduce the amount of heat lost through the door, and also prevents drafts from forming. The normal threshold height is 30 centimeters.

The door is installed in such a way that people who will enter it cannot accidentally get burned from the heated material. The tree conducts heat quite well - in this regard, it is better to cover the door with foil and a special insulation on both sides of the door. You can hide these protective materials, for example, with a clapboard that is not afraid of moisture.

To avoid such nuances, and not resort to additional work, it is better to purchase and install glass doors. They look flawless on the outside, and will be resistant to any conditions that may arise in the bath.

We hope that everyone who has read the article now knows how to make a steam room in the bath with their own hands. The main thing is to give maximum attention to the arrangement of the bath, your strength, and save finances only in special cases. As a result, you will build a really high-quality, beautiful, reliable and at the same time safe steam room that can work for many years, delighting you with its warmth.

Warming the steam room in the bath: step by step instructions

Thermal insulation of the steam room is a must in any bath, regardless of the material of its manufacture. It is best to devote time to this matter at the construction stage, although this can also be done in a finished bath. How to do the warming of a steam room in a bath with your own hands - you will learn from our article. The steam room is the most important part of the bath. It should not be cold, and such a statement can hardly be disputed. Every zealous owner of the bath tries to minimize any heat loss in its steam department, since the extra costs for heating, problems with heating the room, keeping it warm and the discomfort of bath procedures usually do not please anyone. For reliable thermal insulation of the steam room, it is necessary to go through several stages of work on the insulation of its walls, floor and ceiling.

Features of reducing heat loss in the steam room

To avoid unnecessary costs for kindling the stove and keeping heat in the steam room, you need to take into account several simple rules bath plans:

• The area of ​​the building is determined depending on the number of visitors present in it at the same time and the number of its rooms - a steam room, changing rooms and others. The size of the steam room is usually 4-6 m2.
• The location of the locker room is planned closer to the entrance door of the bath. This will keep cold air from entering the steam room.
• To save heat, the entrance from the steam room to the adjacent room can be arranged in the form of a vestibule.
• The doorway for the steam room is made with a high threshold and a width of not more than 0.7 m.
• The sauna stove is located closer to the exit.
• To reduce heat losses through the window, the latter is made of double-glazed windows and is placed at a height of 1 m from the floor of the steam room.

Thermal insulation materials for steam room insulation

Natural raw materials and artificial products are used as heat-insulating and sealing materials for the steam room.
Natural raw materials include: tow, which is used to fill cracks, sphagnum, which acts as an interventional sealant, construction frame moss - wall insulation. These materials are environmentally friendly and do a good job of protecting the premises from heat loss. However, they are prone to rapid decay and are a delicacy for insects. For this reason, natural heaters are recommended to be treated with antiseptics, and their use for a steam room is undesirable.
Expanded clay and expanded polystyrene plates, basalt wool and ordinary foam plastic serve as artificial materials for insulation. All of them are moisture resistant, biologically safe, long-term operation and a high degree of thermal insulation. Expanded clay slabs are used to insulate the floor of steam rooms, polystyrene foam - for their attic floors, and basalt wool - for walls and ceilings.
For the insulation and waterproofing of the walls and ceiling of the steam room, foil insulation is currently used. It is a roll of basalt wool with a layer of aluminum foil glued on it. When using this material, the process of insulating structures is greatly simplified - the foil protects the insulation from moisture and contributes to the reflection of heat from the enclosing structures into the room.

Insulation of the ceiling of the steam room in the bath

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, we will use a modern method, which involves the use of foil material as a vapor barrier layer.
The work consists of five stages:

1. Insulation is attached to the ceiling beams using a stapler, facing the inside of the room with a layer of aluminum foil, which simultaneously serves as a heat-reflecting screen. This will reduce the cost of heating and keeping the steam room warm by 2-3 times. The joints of the panels of the overlapped insulator are glued with aluminum tape. Other vapor barrier materials are also used for baths, but they are not as effective.
2. The ceiling sheathing supporting the insulation is fastened with screws across the ceiling beams. The crate is necessary for the installation of the outer skin of the ceiling. FROM inside the ceiling of the room between the future sheathing and the sheets of foil insulation, an air heat-reflecting gap is left.
3. The selected insulation is laid from the attic side between the ceiling beams. It should be tight, without the slightest gaps.
4. A polyethylene film is laid and fixed on top of the insulation to protect it from moisture and dust from the street. To avoid mechanical damage to the multilayer thermal insulation in the attic, a rough plank floor is laid along the beams.
5. At the last stage of work, the ceiling of the steam room is sheathed along the crate with a wooden clapboard. The material for it can be hardwood - linden, aspen, etc. What material to choose is up to you.

When insulating a steam room in a frame bath, such thermal insulation of the ceiling is necessary, and for log cabin- optional. There are enough boards 6 cm thick, fixed to the ceiling beams, and a layer mineral wool at 15 cm.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the steam room in the bath

Before the internal insulation of the walls in the steam room, it is necessary to seal all joints and gaps in them with a sealant. After the composition has dried, you can begin to perform thermal insulation. Its process is similar to the insulation of the ceiling, but has some nuances. Wall insulation is carried out in a horizontal direction along the perimeter of the steam room, moving from the top to the floor. Moreover, the strip of foil overlaps to the slope left during the insulation of the ceiling. The insulated wall of the steam room should have three layers of protection: waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier membrane.
The order of work is this:

• To exclude the possibility of the formation of vapor condensate on the walls, the enclosing structures of the steam room are covered with a waterproofing film.
• The heat-insulating layer of mineral wool is placed in a crate of timber, which is stuffed onto the wall along the waterproofing and the intermediate layer of clean paper.
• The vapor barrier layer protects the insulation from exposure to moist air. For this purpose, a foil membrane is used, which is attached over the insulation to the crate using a stapler. The joints of her overlapped canvases are glued with metal tape.
• At the last stage, a lining made of hardwood is attached on top of the membrane to the wooden frame of the wall.

Unlike warming a steam room in a brick bath, wooden building will require fewer heat-insulating materials, since the wood itself has similar properties.
Important! Before the outer wall cladding, thin laths must be stuffed onto the crate to create an air gap, which, together with the foil membrane, will create a heat-reflecting effect.

Warming the floor of the steam room in the bath

A concrete floor is stronger and more durable than a wooden one, as it is not afraid of moisture. It is very easy to take care of the tiles laid on the screed. But tile is a cold material. Wooden floors for a steam room are much more suitable. To reduce its heat loss, both types of floors require insulation.

Insulation of the wooden floor in the steam room

Structurally, a wooden floor has differences from a concrete floor, but their thermal insulation has the same principle. The whole system looks like this: foundation, floor beams, logs laid on beams, a layer of vapor barrier material, a subfloor, insulation, a waterproofing layer, a finishing floor.
After installing the log and laying the vapor barrier material, the space between the floor beams is filled with insulation. They can be sand, slag, expanded clay, fiberglass or mineral wool mats and foam. Waterproofing and a finishing floor are laid on the insulation.

Thermal insulation of the concrete floor in the steam room

The scheme of the concrete insulated floor in the steam room is as follows: foundation, concrete floor, waterproofing layer, insulation, concrete screed, ceramic tile or wooden floor.
You can see that such a floor is similar to a kind of "sandwich", consisting of a couple of layers of concrete and insulation laid between them. In the same way, the floor of a bathhouse erected on a columnar foundation is insulated. The difference here is that the monolithic base is replaced by a reinforced concrete slab laid on a frame made of a metal channel.
Work on floor insulation in the steam room consists of several stages:

1. The laying of the base of the lower layer of the floor is carried out from a concrete mixture having a crushed stone fraction of 20-35 mm. The thickness of the concrete cushion is 120-150 mm.
2. The waterproofing is laid after the polymerization of the concrete. Roofing material, roofing felt and bituminous mastics can serve as materials for it. Before applying the latter, the base is painted with a special primer. Waterproofing is laid on the concrete surface after it has been treated with two or three layers of bituminous material.
3. For the installation of insulation, mineral wool, perlite, boiler slag with a layer of 250-300 mm, foam plastic, expanded clay with a layer of 100-150 mm, etc. are used.
4. The second layer of the floor is laid on the heat-insulating material. In the concrete of this layer, a finer fraction of crushed stone is used.

The finished floor can be covered with a platform made of wood. After the end of the bath procedures, it is removed, washed and dried.
How to insulate a steam room in a bath - look at the video:

As you can see, warming a steam room is easy to do on your own. Turn on your patience and diligence, and the result will be sure! Author: TutKnow.ru editors

How to make floors in a steam bath

When a private bath is being built or overhauled, the floors in the steam room require special attention.
Floors must be durable, heat-resistant and slightly susceptible to moisture. Otherwise, they will quickly become unusable and will have to be completely replaced.

Necessary properties of the floor in the steam room

An independent floor device in a steam bath requires compliance with basic rules. According to standard technological characteristics, the floors in the bath in the steam room and sink should have the following properties:

• trouble-free disposal of used water;
• the ability to maintain temperature for a long time;
• cleaning without much effort and the use of expensive household chemicals.

On a note! It is very important that the floors in the steam room do not create discomfort for vacationers.

Cold and slippery surfaces that are walked on with bare feet will spoil all the pleasure of bath procedures. In addition, it is unsafe for health. Therefore, you need to carefully select the material and properly equip the floors in the steam bath; what materials are better to use, how to carry out all the necessary work, how to care for the finished floor in order to increase its service life - these and some other important issues will be covered in the proposed material.

What materials are needed

If you are going to make the floors in the bath in the steam room with your own hands, you need to carefully study the laying technology and prepare everything you need. Regardless of the design of the floor and the planned finish coating, you will first need to carry out preparatory work. To carry them out, you will need the following materials:

• concrete screed components - cement, sand, gravel;
• reinforcing mesh;
• roll waterproofing - roofing material and / or polyethylene;
• insulation;
• wooden beam with a section of 30 by 50 mm, 70 by 100 mm and / or 50 by 80 mm, depending on the design of the floor and the planned finishing coating;
• a board with a tongue and groove with a tongue-and-groove lock - for non-leaking floors;
• flat board - for leaking floors;
• outlet pipes for waste water;
• siphon and grate for arranging a drain;
• antiseptic and other solutions for pre-treatment of wood;
• brick;
• asbestos-concrete pipes.

For work, you need to prepare the following tools and devices:

• tank for mixing the solution;
• construction mixer;
• scales and/or measuring container;
• wire cutters;
• tape measure, plumb line, level;
• a hammer;
• technical knife;
• plane;
• grinder;
• sledgehammer;
• puncher or electric drill;
• hard brush.

Preparing the base for the floor in the steam room

When a decision is made which floor in the steam bath is planned to be made, the installation of the base for it begins. At the same time, it must be remembered that it is necessary to correctly calculate the angle of inclination of the surface for the flow of water falling onto the floor. On the Internet, you can find ready-made tables and other calculation materials for the correct manufacture of the floor structure.

After designing and manufacturing the base, it is necessary to install a pipe for draining waste water and select the location of the drain hole. It can be arranged in the center of the room or against the wall. When placing a drain hole in the corner of the steam room, a special groove is mounted to it along the wall.

The most popular materials for arranging floors are concrete or board. They can be used both individually and in combination. If a light frame bath is being designed, the floor in the steam room can be made of tongue-and-groove boards or beams.

On a note! It is easier to equip a combined floor made of wood and concrete, it turns out to be especially strong, comfortable and durable.

How to make a concrete floor in a steam room

At the stage of arranging the foundation, it is necessary to install a drain pipe for waste water under a slope. A pit is set up for the first end. The second end is passed through the side wall and brought to the septic tank, cesspool or sewer system.

The pit for the drain pipe is lined with bricks or poured with concrete. For the latter option, you must first mount the formwork. It is built from improvised material. You can use used, but still quite strong old boards or boards.

When the installation is completed, the pit is covered with soil from the outside to about 2/3 of the height. The pipe must be filled completely. The soil needs to be leveled and compacted.

Further, under the slope, a gravel cushion is laid out from the pit to the wall. Here the layer of bulk material must be made 2 times thicker. The pillow must be leveled and a reinforcing mesh placed over it to maintain the slope angle.

Now you need to make the floor insulation in the bath in the steam room. To do this, a hard insulation flooring is laid on top of the mesh. You can use sheets of extruded polystyrene foam. Before pouring a finishing concrete layer, a reinforcing mesh is placed on the sheets and a rolled waterproofing agent is spread.

In another option, a rough concrete screed with insulating additives is poured. For example, a crumb of polystyrene foam. The required thickness of the screed is from 3 to 5 cm. After the technological drying of the concrete, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it.

The final screed is poured strictly along the beacons to a thickness of at least 3 cm. It is advisable to use a ready-made mortar or mortar with the addition of microfiber for it. This will increase the moisture resistance and strength of the material.

The finished screed for protection against moisture can be covered with liquid glass or liquid rubber. Another option is ceramic tiles. In this case, all seams must be treated with special compounds for tightness.

The drain hole is protected by a removable filter grid. This will protect against the ingress of debris and random objects. Subsequently, the filter will need to be periodically removed for thorough cleaning.

The finished floor is made from boards pre-treated with special compounds. They are laid, leaving technological gaps for the free flow of used water.

On a note! It is better to make the plank covering removable. This will allow you to freely remove it and lay it again after drying, cleaning and minor repairs.

Accidentally damaged elements will be easy to replace.

The floor in the steam room, insulated from the outside

To make an insulated floor in a steam bath, you first need to lay a pillow of compacted soil. This will keep the foundation intact. The drainage layer over the clay is poured from a mixture of sand and fine-grained bulk material - gravel, crushed stone, pebbles.

A drainage pit for waste water is formed in the center. It must be deepened and covered with a drainage mixture.

Logs for a wooden floor are made of asbestos concrete pipes. With their help, free air circulation in the underground space is also ensured. The final coating is made from boards laid in increments of 5 to 7 mm for the free removal of used water.

Floor without rough concrete screed

The floor of this design is laid directly on a strip or column foundation. The free space between the elements of the base of the building is filled with a solution of rough concrete. Instead, you can use a compacted soil cushion.

In the center of the steam room, it is necessary to build a tray by connecting it to the sewer pipe. This will make it easier to drain the waste water. For the manufacture of the tray, you can use boards or plastic. The base for it is one of the supporting elements of the foundation. A waterproofing layer must be laid under the tray.

The floor covering is made of densely laid boards. The slope created in the process of arranging the floor ensures that the waste water flows directly into the tray and then into the sewer pipe.

Horizontal floor in the steam room

In this option, the finishing floor in the steam room in wooden bath laid horizontally. The drain structure is arranged in the free space between the rough screed and the finishing coating.

This design allows you to free the floors from the used water in the bath in the steam room and in the sink. To do this, the drain hole is arranged under the floor in the washing room.

The formation of the floor pie begins with the laying of the subfloor from the board. Then the lags are laid. A pillow of bulk material is poured into the free space between them. In this case, it is necessary to form a funnel for the passage of water. It is located under the future drain hole. A drain pipe is connected to the funnel from below.

Instead of a pillow, you can make a rough concrete screed, in which insulation is added. At the same time, the logs must be treated with an antiseptic and waterproofed.

How to insulate a wooden floor in a steam room

The arrangement of an insulated floor without a rough concrete screed begins during the construction of the foundation. For a non-leaking floor, sewer pipes must be installed at this stage.

The upper level of the subfloor must be raised above the soil level by 40-60 cm. This is ensured by the installation of brick columns and / or walls. Logs (floor beams) are laid on them.

The next step is waterproofing. These works are carried out after the walls are fully erected. First you need to firmly compact the soil in the free space of the foundation. After that, a roll waterproofer is laid. It is best to use ruberoid.

Now you can lay the logs and transverse bars for the subfloor. They have a rough boardwalk. A rolled vapor barrier is spread over it.

Next, mats or slabs of insulating material are laid - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc. On top of the insulation - a sheet of waterproofing. If the material is laid in pieces, it is necessary to make an overlap of 20 cm wide. All technological seams are protected with moisture-resistant tape.

The drain pipe is carefully guided through all layers of the floor cake and rises above the top edge of the insulation. Around it, a crate is made of a board with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

laying down boardwalk, its level along the walls needs to be raised. For this, a beam with a thickness of 3 to 5 cm is used. This will form the necessary slope in the form of a funnel. So the water will be discharged to the drain hole. It is better to place it in the center of the steam room.

Instead of a drain hole, you can use a special tray installed along the wall or in the center of the steam room. In the first case, the floor is raised against the opposite wall so that water flows freely to the tray. In the second case, the floorboards are lifted along two walls parallel to the tray.

Finished floor laying

On the finished base, you can lay a finishing coating. Pre-boards are treated with special compounds to protect against microorganisms and mold.

The cover is applied tightly. It is better to use tongue-and-groove boards with a tongue-and-groove lock. The result is a smooth Smooth surface without gaps, cracks, etc. A plinth is installed along the walls. Over the drain hole - a removable crate. Important! All technological gaps around the drain must be filled with sealant and additionally treated with a compound to increase moisture resistance.

Disposal of used water

In the absence of a sewer line to drain waste water, it is necessary to equip a drainage well, gutter or pit. For a drainage well, you need to dig a hole. Its depth should be twice the level of soil freezing in the coldest season. For a small family bath, a drainage well measuring 90 by 90 or 100 by 100 cm will suffice.

At the bottom of the well, you need to fill up a pillow of loose material with a thickness of about 0.5 meters. You can use expanded clay, crushed stone, broken brick or fine gravel. The input for the drainage pipe is arranged 20-30 cm below the ground level.

The installation of a floor in a steam frame bath or a bath of a different design requires special attention, accuracy and careful observance of all technologies. Read more about how to make floors in a steam bath, which ones are better - in the video offered for viewing.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates the premises so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made of bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of this or that material depends, first of all, on what the bath itself is built from. If this is a log or frame structure, then it is better to use wood so as not to violate the general concept, and brick is more suitable for a brick bath.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heater in the steam room is also important. When it comes to traditional brick oven, then it is itself a partition. In this case, you just need to report it until a full-fledged wall is formed. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be both frame and from ordinary boards.

The structure described below is wooden frame lined with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Design featuresPhoto

The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, which will be 10 cm high and 12.5 cm wide. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay a tile along it after completion of the work, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be built both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), and directly during installation, having built a formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be covered with deep primer and betocontact (for example, manufactured by Knauf).
The base will be attached to the curb with anchors (1.6 cm). The end posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hex screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the uprights themselves be oval and longitudinal - so the frame will not be an obstacle to the fall of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, the expansion or settlement of the log house under the influence of atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from the floor to the ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond standard sizes insulation boards. On both sides, the cotton wool should be covered with plastic wrap and fixed with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be fixed with kleimers to a crate made of planks 2.5x5 cm. The crate itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed on the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the crate is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and fixed only to vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First you need to install skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are overlapped by platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband in the upper part of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it will move with it, without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To "hide" the heads of the screws, stepped holes should be made in advance in the appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. In opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut with a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific height of the ceiling, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 3 The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and a deep primer. To make the bond more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer dowels in there and screw in the screws ½.

Step 4 After that, the formwork must be poured with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it must be covered with roofing material in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1. The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks must be installed on the curb, marked and made similar holes there.

Step 2 The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 4 An opening is made under the door frame - they are placed vertical racks, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the dimensions of the frame.

Step 5 With the help of self-tapping screws, the frame jumper is attached to the tree.

On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design will turn out.

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Lathing installation

Step 1. Mineral wool mats must be laid in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed with a mounting knife.

Step 2 On both sides of the frame, a plastic film is attached to it (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3 The crate is installed in compliance with a step of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed even at the frame assembly stage - this will simultaneously solve the problem of fixing it in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. door frame

Step 1. With an opening size of 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm there (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking the verticality / horizontality and fixing the frame to the racks, all formed gaps must be blown out with mounting foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off with a mounting knife.

Step 2 Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from washing with planed boards 60x30 mm. At the same time, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be carried out both after the installation of the lining, and before it. It is important that the junction of the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with the utmost precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Clapboard lining

The installation of the lining begins from the corner and is carried out using the tongue-to-groove technology. This means that the spike of each next sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the crate is carried out using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without hats (to avoid accidental burns) or ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closure with pins.

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Finishing the edges of the structure

Step 1. For platbands, the same lining that was used in the decoration is suitable. By means of a circular, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned with a manual milling cutter (a radius cutter is used). The vertical platband is joined to the horizontal strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2 Skirting boards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is wooden) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the twisted screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4 The slats installed at the top of the structure will only perform a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes on it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

The described option is suitable for a log cabin of a bathhouse that has already been upset and matured for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case of a change in the dimensions of the log house itself. If full sediment has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Ordinary boards can be used as sheathing. Both they and the lining should only be made of hardwood, since coniferous wood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all the bars in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use a spoon laying in ½ bricks (or, alternatively, in a whole brick). To weight similar design there will be quite a lot, therefore, in order to facilitate it, you can use a hollow brick.

Stage one. Training

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all work surfaces. The board covering is removed from the floor to the very foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further, the workplace is equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed in the work are taken out of the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work, you will need the following equipment:

• sieve;
• Sander;
• shovel;
• mixing tank.

Step 1. First you need to sift the sand in order to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine-mesh chain-link mesh and 4 bars. The sand is carefully sieved.

Step 3 The mixing ratio is 3:1. First, six buckets of sand and two of cement should be poured. Water is added, the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is kneaded to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but you should not add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this step, you need the following tools:

• level;
• pick;
• trowel;
• plumb;
• rule.

Step ##DescriptionIllustration

Step 1.	The twine is pulled - it will be a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a bit for the solution to seize.
Step 2	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled along the twine, the excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4	If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have it), then it must be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal / vertical, if necessary, its position is corrected.
Step 5	The brick is laid close to the box. To bind a partition to it or to wooden walls metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; you can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6	At the end of the laying of row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts with a pickaxe. One of these halves begins the second row. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! Bandaging masonry is a must. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will turn out to be more durable.

1. Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
2. The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks soaked in concrete beforehand. Pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - We put a partition in ½ brick

Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with a slight (compared to brick) weight, they are large, which means that the laying will be carried out much faster.

The standard blocks are 300 mm high and 600 mm long. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned, but in most cases products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The laying procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Stage one. markup

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markup "dry", the first row of blocks is laid out, if necessary, trimming is performed. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a hacksaw for stone. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing is placed (roofing material is suitable) in two layers.

Stage two. Mounting

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Glue must be kneaded with an electric drill with a special mixer nozzle. The adhesive composition is applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, the verticality / horizontality is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ of the width of the product in order to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition joins the main walls, binding is performed with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, reinforcement with glue is inserted there by at least 50 mm. Recesses can be made in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out of the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the bars must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plaster, you can use the same adhesive solution with which the masonry was performed. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. At the end of the plaster, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a foam block partition can be built directly on a wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

1. When buying blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces, the better the finish will be.
2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the place of installation, while the density does not play any role.
3. It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
4. If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
5. The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
6. It is advisable to leave a small gap between the partition and the ceiling (about 100 mm), which must be filled with mounting foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

The construction of a room for a steam room is only part of the whole complex of works on the organization of a Russian bath. A properly equipped steam room is the key to quality rest and safety of bath procedures. A do-it-yourself steam room will allow you to get significant cost savings and give you the opportunity to show your individuality.

Step-by-step instructions for setting up a steam room

Arranging a steam room with your own hands involves performing a certain sequence of operations:

• Project development.
• The choice of the furnace and its location.
• Room decoration.
• Organization of lighting.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

The height of the ceilings is determined by the purpose of finding a person in the steam room

Steam room project: basic principles

Before starting work on arranging a steam room, it is necessary to create a project that provides for all the subtleties of this specific room, taking into account centuries-old traditions and the realities of the present.
The design should be carried out depending on the main factors: the size of the furnace and the number of people staying in the room at the same time.

For a family of three, an area of ​​​​approximately 2x2 meters with a steam room height of 2.2 m is sufficient. There is an erroneous opinion that a certain amount of space will be a positive point in this case. This is not true, since with an increase in the volume of the steam room, a large amount of energy and time will be required to achieve the required temperature.

The window is better to make small

As a rule, when building a steam room, windows are not provided. If necessary, the window should be as small as possible (no more than 500x500 mm). To create sufficient thermal insulation, it is desirable to make windows according to modern technologies to achieve the desired effect. In addition, the arrangement of the window will require careful isolation of cracks during its installation.

The steam room must be equipped with ventilation. The exhaust system must ensure the removal of excess moisture from the room. This requirement is due to the need to eliminate favorable conditions for the development of pathogenic microorganisms in the form of fungi and mold.

In addition, the service life finishing materials directly depends on the level of humidity in the room, since in the vast majority of cases the steam room is finished with wood. Humidity, which is within acceptable limits, has a beneficial effect on human health.

Features of the arrangement of the steam room

When building a steam room with your own hands, you must adhere to the following recommendations.

Furnace selection

The main parameters on which the operation of the device depends are: the number of stones and the duration of their heating, the heat resistance of the case, the grate material, the power consumption of the unit and its design. To provide heat, except for the steam room, adjacent rooms with with total area premises in 22 square meters enough power of 24 kW. Making a stove with your own hands will reduce the cost of arranging a bath.

Choosing a furnace is important

Floor cladding

As a material for floors, the best solution would be to use porcelain tiles or use natural stone. For safe movement, a boardwalk is laid. Floor insulation is not required. At the same time, one of the requirements for the floor is the arrangement of a hole for draining water. Wood as a material for the floor is not the best option, as high humidity will lead to its deformation and early failure.

Ceiling

For a ceiling, a sufficient height is 2.2 m, which is associated with physical properties steam and human physiology. If the ceiling height exceeds the specified value, will the steam go up? and its effect will be lost. Reducing the height will lead to discomfort during bathing procedures, as there will be a possibility of head injury, and there will be difficulties when working with a broom.

Windows and doors

Window organization is optional.

Wood or glass are the best material for making doors. If a wooden door is tradition, then glass is practicality.

Choosing a steam source and determining the location for the furnace

An important factor when choosing a stove is the method of obtaining steam, the source of energy and the size of the steam room.

The stone is classic solution when choosing a stove for a Russian bath. Stones are laid inside.

Wood is the traditional fuel, but both electricity and gas can be used.
Furnaces are of several types.

On firewood

Installing such a stove will provide a unique atmosphere in the bath. Even the fact that such a device requires periodic cleaning of soot from stones cannot spoil the pleasure of taking a bath procedure. To reduce the formation of soot, aspen firewood should be used as fuel. To maintain a stable temperature, it is necessary to constantly monitor the combustion process.

Steam room with wood burning stove

Electrical

The electric heater is very easy to use. Such an electrical appliance is compact, has sufficient power and allows you to quickly reach the required temperature. Its device does not require the organization of a chimney.

The electric heater is safe for environment and a person, its maintenance is simplified as much as possible due to the use of automation, design features exclude the possibility of injury.
The main disadvantage of the device is the significant power consumption.

Electric heater

Gas

Application gas oven characterized by ease of operation, high heating rate and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room.
A significant disadvantage of this apparatus is the dimensions of the furnace and the significant need for gas in the device. The use of this type of furnace is impractical if there is no connection to the gas main.

Types of heaters

The stove-heater can be open and closed.

Stones come in different types

In the case when several people plan to take bath procedures, the best choice there will be an open type of heater. The firebox (place of fuel combustion) does not have refractory lining. It serves as a place for laying stones. Such an arrangement of the furnace allows you to heat all the rooms of the bath, and the stones to heat up.

When exposed to water, heaters with such a device quickly lose temperature. This design is used in furnaces with electric heating.

A closed heater is a traditional way of arranging a Russian bath. At the same time, a large number of stones are located in a specially designated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace. In this case, the steam exits through a special door, the level of which is located opposite the stones of the first row. During the combustion process, this door must remain closed. To warm up the steam room, it is opened in advance.

Finishing the steam room: the main stages

Which material to choose?

The choice of material is an important stage in the production of steam room finishing.

There are no trifles in the steam room device

With its availability, pine is not suitable material for this room. This type of wood contains resins, which, under the influence of high temperature, are released onto the surface of the material.
The most suitable material in this case may be linden. The characteristics of this type of wood do not allow burns and allow you to save appearance finishing unchanged for a long time.
The possibility of using aspen, birch, or poplar is not excluded. Trees belonging to deciduous species dry out quickly, thereby creating a specific microclimate in the steam room, and have durability.

It is strictly not allowed to use wood and linoleum slabs for finishing the bath. In addition to the fact that these materials are flammable, they become unsafe for human health at high temperatures and humidity.

How to insulate the ceiling and walls?

An important condition for the construction of a steam room is the creation of a tightness of the room. For this purpose, a mineral-based insulation is used, which is isolated from steam using aluminum foil.

A special adhesive tape is used to connect its edges. High temperatures do not allow the use of the film in this case, due to its deformation. Exterior finish should include the organization of closable ventilation openings.

Warming

To finish the ceiling, a planed board with a thickness of 20-30 mm is used. They are fastened to the beams with the help of nails, which should have a length three times the thickness of the board. You can improve ventilation by rounding the corners of the boards and leaving a small gap between them.

Finishing with a pair of clapboard

It should be noted that lining has become very popular as a finishing material for bathhouses. The properties of this material make it possible to create the required thermal insulation and finish the surface of the walls, making them attractive. In addition, the good breathability of the material does not create conditions for the formation of condensate, the occurrence of fungi and mold.

Before installing the lining in the steam room, it is left in it for a while so that the material adapts to the conditions of the microclimate of the room.

If there are significant defects in the wall surface, they should be eliminated so that the material does not lie in waves. Fastening takes place with brackets or screws. It is necessary to take into account the fact that in most cases it is not possible to achieve an ideal wall surface without the construction of a crate.

clapboard

When choosing fasteners, the conditions of their work should be taken into account. Their material must withstand high humidity and temperature, and also exclude the possibility of injury to a person.

How is the flooring done in the steam room?

The process of finishing the bath begins with the organization of the floor. It is recommended to raise it 150-200 mm above the floor level in other rooms. This allows you to keep warm in the steam room due to the absence of drafts.

Shunted board floor

As a material, it is best to use tiles, grooved or edged boards. The level of safety of movement in the room and its comfort will depend on the choice made.
Flooring from boards is made on logs, which are placed on brick columns. They are based on sand or concrete. Fasteners made of galvanized, bronze, brass or stainless steel are used for installation.

The specific conditions in the room determine a number of requirements for the organization of lighting in it:

• the ceiling must be made of heat-resistant and moisture-resistant material;
• to create diffused lighting, it is better to use matte shades;
• luminaires should not be placed on the ceiling;
• shades must be reinforced;
• the maximum power of the lamps should be 60 watts.

Lighting will create an atmosphere of mystery

Steam room design: ideas

The device of the steam room is not diverse and has a traditional interior, consisting of a stove-heater and multi-level benches.

The layout of the shelves should be in line with the existing preferences and satisfy the various needs. When using the space zoning method, you can overlay the stove with stone, and the benches can be made of wood.

Modern design solution is the arrangement of windows when finishing a steam room. Through them you can contemplate the surrounding landscape.

A selection of video and photo materials will give a more detailed idea of ​​​​the possible design options for the steam room

A steam room with a huge window opens up a view of the site. It is hoped that the glass is tinted and it is not visible from the outside what is happening inside.

When finishing the steam room, you can combine materials.

The bath can be a great place to relax with the whole family, with friends and even alone, but for this you need to pay due attention to solving the issues of its internal arrangement. You will be able to cope with all the upcoming tasks on your own. You just need to pay attention to the study of the theoretical part, and then step by step put all the ideas into practice.

Pay due attention to the choice of finishing materials. The traditional material for finishing a Russian steam room is wood.

The most budget option is pine. However, if possible, you should refuse to use too cheap material. During the operation of the steam room, low-quality pine emits too much resin, which makes visiting the bath too difficult.

The best option for interior decoration of the steam room is linden-based materials. This wood does not overheat, so visiting the bath will be absolutely safe. In addition, the material normally tolerates high temperatures and retains its original external properties for a long time.

Also, for finishing the steam room, you can use birch, poplar and other durable species. Larch dries well, which contributes to the creation of the most favorable microclimate in the steam room.

It is strongly not recommended to use cheap wood boards for finishing the steam room. Your choice is lining or array. Chipboard, MDF and similar solutions should be refrained from, because. These are toxic and flammable materials. They do not tolerate contact with moisture and very quickly lose their external qualities.

Otherwise, focus on your personal preferences and available budget.

Heating and ventilation

The "heart" of the Russian bath is the stove-heater. The best materials for the construction of a sauna stove - refractory bricks and a natural stone. They can be used both individually and in combination.

Brick accumulates heat well, and stones allow you to get the right steam. Subject to proper arrangement, the sauna stove will be able to “keep” heat for up to 15 hours, but this moment largely depends on the quality of the insulation.

The steam room must be equipped with high-quality ventilation. Quite often, natural ventilation forces are not enough to ensure proper air exchange and fans have to be installed. There are a lot of options for arranging ventilation. Each specific type of system is selected in accordance with the conditions and features of a particular case.

A drain hole is necessarily equipped in the floor of the bath, through which excess moisture will leave. This will prevent the formation of dampness, mold and other troubles in the steam room.

Floor finish

To finish the floor of the steam room, a cut or tongue-and-groove board is used. The work is done in a few simple steps.

First step. Carefully level the base, remove all kinds of debris.

Second step. Do concrete screed. If the draft base does not have significant differences, you can do without a screed. In this case, you need to fill the base with about a 10-centimeter layer of sand.

Third step. Install brick posts measuring 25x25 cm on the base. These posts will serve as supports for the log. Select the height of the columns so that the finished floor in the steam room is at least 15 cm higher than the floor of the washing room.

Fourth step. Lay the logs and fasten them to the support posts. Logs with a section of 25x25 cm are traditionally used. The optimal laying step is about 1 m.

Fifth step. Start laying boards. Start laying from the far corner from the entrance to the room. To fasten the boards to the logs, use galvanized self-tapping screws. Screw them in so that the caps sink at least a couple of millimeters into the wood.

The bath floor is laid with a slight slope - about 1 cm per 1 m of surface. The design of the floor necessarily includes a drain for the timely and effective removal of excess moisture.

wall decoration

For finishing bath walls, it is best to use lining. Before starting work, bring the lining into the steam room and leave it there for a day or two so that the material has time to adapt to environmental conditions. All wood must be treated with an antiseptic. In general, the work is extremely simple and is carried out in several stages.

First stage. Assemble the frame. When choosing a material for assembling the frame, consider the expected level of the upcoming load. If the shelves are attached to the walls, the crate should be assembled from bars. If the shelves will not be attached to the walls, the frame can be made of rails.

When choosing the option of fastening the elements of the crate, be guided by how the lining will be fixed in the future. If you will fasten the sheets vertically, fix the slats or bars horizontally, and vice versa.

Attach the first and last slats to the wall. Use self-tapping screws for fastening. Select the step of the crate in accordance with the width of the insulation boards.

Second phase. Fasten the waterproofing (plastic film) over the crate and proceed with the installation of the insulation. For insulation, most often use mineral wool.

Third stage. Fix the vapor barrier material over the laid insulation. To fix the vapor barrier membranes, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler.

Fourth stage. Proceed to the installation of lining. Start attaching the sheathing sheets from the far corner of the steam room. The lining can be fastened with self-tapping screws or other convenient fasteners. Sheathe all the walls of the steam room with clapboard.

In the case of finishing the bath, it is strongly not recommended to use varnishes and paints for finishing the lining.

Ceiling finish

First step. Stuff the crate to the load-bearing floor beams. To assemble the crate, use edged boards or wooden blocks. Stuff a waterproofing film over the crate. Choose the step of the crate in accordance with the width of the insulation boards.

Second step. Fill the cells of the crate with insulation (usually basalt wool). Carefully trim the insulation mats so that there are no gaps or cracks left.

Third step. On top of the insulation, attach vapor barrier material to the beams. Lay the vapor barrier strips with a 20-30 cm overlap. Use a construction stapler to fasten the material. Glue the joints with aluminum adhesive tape.

Fourth step. Proceed to the installation of lining. Attach the sheets to the rails. Fix the sheets of the outermost row of sheathing at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall in order to ensure effective air circulation in the space between the thermal insulation and the sheathing.

Sheathe the entire surface of the ceiling. At the opposite wall, you also need to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm.

The size, shape and features of the placement of benches in the steam room may vary. To the greatest extent, it all depends on the imagination and capabilities of the owner.

The main thing is to choose the right material for arranging shops. In the process of choosing a material, take into account the fact that the benches will be operated in a steam room - a room with high temperature and humidity. Moreover, people will sit and lie on these benches.

Therefore, wood should have a smooth texture without any knots and resins, and also be hypoallergenic. In most cases, benches are built from poplar, oak, aspen and linden wood. The mentioned materials have many important advantages, namely:

• they do not emit resin and other harmful substances when heated;
• dry quickly;
• smell good;
• do not burn the skin;
• look beautiful;
• have a pleasant to the touch surface.

The shelves in the steam room should look nice and have rounded ends. It is best to place them in 2-3 tiers against the wall opposite the heater. It is traditional and best option. If you wish, you can make changes to the project at your discretion.

Remember: the shelves should be at such a distance from the stove that people do not burn themselves on the surface of the unit. If for finishing oven, plaster was used or the masonry was left “as is”, the minimum allowable distance to the shelves should be 50 cm.

There is also a restriction on the distance between the ceiling of the bath and the upper shelf: no more than 1.2 m and no less than 1 m.

Lighting in the steam room

In the process of planning and organizing the lighting of the steam room, it is necessary to take into account the main features of this room - a hot and humid microclimate. Lamps in this room can be placed exclusively in the corners or just under the ceiling.

The corners and the ceiling heat up the least, and artificial light with such an arrangement of devices will not “hit the eye”.

Fiber optic lamps allow you to get softer and more diffused lighting. In addition, fiber optic lighting products are considered safer to operate in such conditions when compared to conventional lamps.

Regardless of which lamps you prefer, they must be hidden behind heat-resistant and heat-resistant shades. To make the shades not so conspicuous, they can be framed with beautiful wooden bars. Also, wooden grilles will look appropriate on the vents.

In the end, you just have to buy or independently make various additional accessories for your Russian bathhouse, such as headrests, ladles, buckets, brooms, etc., and the steam room will be ready for operation.

Thus, in arranging a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands, although there is nothing complicated, it is a complex complex work that requires maximum care and responsibility from the performer. Follow the advice and instructions you receive and you'll be fine.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself steam room in the bath

Perhaps someone is waiting for that step-by-step instruction on the device of a steam room with your own hands will include items from the very beginning of the design and laying of the bath.

Preliminary steps

Before going through the steps of our instructions, it would be better if you followed the links that lead to detailed articles - about, types of building materials for and. Because otherwise, either the volume of this article would have grown uncontrollably, or it would have been necessary to talk about everything too superficially.

Here we will go over the basic steps in detail and touch a little on some additional aspects of working on your own to create your ideal steam room. For more information, follow the links in the text.

If you do not want to resort to the help of outsiders, find out what options are available for arranging the floor, walls and ceiling in the steam room, make a choice and get to work.

Step 1: Bath with steam room and sink: floor

Why is it said here not only about the steam room, but also about the sink? Because with a certain arrangement of floors, you can not make a separate drain for each of these rooms. But first things first.

In a steam room, especially a Russian one, there is enough water on the floor to make it necessary to drain it. This is done in two standard ways. plum and two locations withdrawal.

The gender may be smooth(without tilt), but there will be gaps between its boards - it is through them that the used water will leave. In this case, the floor is called .

The gender may be inclined and no gaps between the boards. In this case, the water is supposed to roll down to the very bottom, where a drain hole awaits it, leading to the underground. In this case it is called « ».

What is in the underground differs in the device: it can be a drainage cushion for absorbing and distributing water, which merges without fuss directly under the bath. It can be a concrete slope, repeating the idea of ​​water flowing to the drain hole, from where it is discharged through a pipe outside the bath - into a septic tank or drainage field. These two options are used when installing a pouring floor.

For dry there is no need for a concrete screed - the water goes into the ladder, and from there - through the pipe - also into the septic tank or drainage field.

For the first option it is necessary to make sure that the bathhouse stands on sandy soils or soils close to them in terms of drainage properties, then arrange a pillow of sand and gravel under it within the boundaries of the steam room and sink.

To do this, the soil layer is completely removed from the underground, then 10-15 cm of sand is poured, and on top of it - a layer of gravel.

Concrete screed device for the second case much more labor-intensive and financially costly.

Digging first trench under the sewer. Next, a concrete trapik- a reservoir for drain water. It has a hole for sewer pipe, which should go at an inclination of several degrees.

The next step is to do the same work to create sand cushion, but without gravel, while the sand is spilled with water and compacted.

IMPORTANT! The tamping ensures that the concrete does not later crack from cushion deformations.

You can put a layer on top of the waterproofing thermal insulation. For example, it can be 50 mm foam. A reinforcing mesh with a wire diameter of 5 mm must be laid on the foam plastic plates.

These were two sub-floors for the pouring floor. The pouring floor itself consists of boards that are attached to the foundation strapping. In this case, the gap should be not only between adjacent boards, but also between the boards and the wall. Here and there it can be equal 10 mm.

Dry floor can be wooden or ceramic, from tiles. Tiled is placed immediately on a concrete screed, arranged identically to the one described above.

Wooden dry floor it is made of a grooved board, but the entire structure may not have contact with the base of the subfloor, because it is attached to the logs, and the logs to the foundation strapping.

If there is a need for insulation, then from below, boards are hemmed to the lags, on which a layer of waterproofing and insulation are then laid, after which everything is again closed with waterproofing and sewn up from above with a rough and finishing floor.

ON A NOTE! The slope of the final floor is done by trimming the upper part of the log. And do not forget that there is always a gap of 1 cm between the floor boards and the wall.

Now that the do-it-yourself arrangement of the steam room floor in the bath is described, you can move on to the walls and ceiling.

Additional materials by floor:

Steps 2 and 3: How to make the walls and ceiling

Arranging a steam room in a bath with your own hands will not do without finishing the walls and ceiling. At the same time, the owner needs to decide on his own whether his steam room will need insulation, and in particular, for this purpose.

Many do the standard - with mineral wool and foil. Moreover, such a scheme of insulation is used not only in baths made of bricks or blocks, or a frame, but also in log cabins, in baths made of timber. However, in practice, it all depends on how cold your winters are, how well you sealed everything that you can - walls, basement, roof, whether it works right for you and much more.

It happens that it is quite rational to approach sealing, and there are no problems with the rapid cooling of the steam room. If they remain, or you are one hundred percent sure that you cannot do without insulation in your climate, then proceed according to the scheme described below.

It is assumed that you already have the walls of the steam room. On my own the heat-insulating "pie" is the same for any walls. You won't even need a diagram if you understand its principle.

In humid and hot rooms, the appearance of condensate especially when it's cold outside. This condensate must be evaporated. At the same time, it is highly desirable that it does not get inside the insulation, if it is used as mineral wool. Because water will evaporate from it for a long time, and its presence greatly reduces the thermal insulation properties of mineral wool.

Start arranging the walls of the steam room with your own hands with stuffing on the walls crates. However, you should think in advance in which direction you will end up fastening the lining, because the counter-lattice is made in a direction perpendicular to the length of the lining.

The diagram shows the insulation of the wall, as an example, a foam block wall is shown. Learn more about the scheme.

BUT counter-lattice coincides in direction with the crate. So, first expose the crates impregnated with an antiseptic and fasten them to the walls, floor and ceiling so that they can hold the mineral wool mats.

Lathing step it is done along the width of the insulation minus 1-2 cm in order to compress the insulation and it held itself due to expansion.

The insulation is inserted between the bars to insulate the wall

Mounted on top of the frame film either a regular one, or a windscreen, or a hydroprotection membrane that releases vapors from the insulation to the outside.

Inserted into the space between the bars of the crate insulation. Then either closes foil, or any other steam protection. The vapor barrier is sealed with a metal adhesive tape, for example.

over steam protection stuffed counterlattice, creating an air space 2.5-3 cm thick, sufficient for the lining to dry out.

The insulation is closed with a vapor barrier and counter rails are nailed

And already attached to the counter-lattice lining. You can read about how this is done.

In general, for fastening, you can use self-tapping screws, dowels, as well as staples.

The ceiling in the steam room will either grazing, or hemmed. The device of both is discussed in this.

In principle, only suitable for insulation hemmed ceiling, and it is immediately made insulated from the side of the attic. It uses the most different materials, but it is desirable that they are non-combustible and do not emit anything harmful during significant heating (we remember that the ceiling is the most heated part of the steam room, because hot air tends to rise).

Step 4: Arrangement: Ventilation

Ventilation should be taken care of already at the construction stage. leave products in the foundation - these can be asbestos-cement pipes with sand, which you then release and install plugs or deflectors.

Ventilation in the steam room is vital, you should not forget about it. But she different for the Russian bath and sauna! This must be taken into account ().

AT Russian bath you can not make ventilation pipes at all, if you use salvo ventilation - open windows and doors wide open between and after procedures. But for this, it should be in the steam room, preferably opposite the door.

However, not only people need oxygen in our country, but also stoves, so usually to blew kiln is supplied pipe supply ventilation supplying fresh, oxygenated cold air. It is he who will oxidize the fuel and affect the combustion temperature. The more oxygen, the more completely the fuel burns, the higher the temperature.

And if there is inflow, then why not do it sharpening? Even in a Russian bath, it makes sense to make outflow holes under the shelves, because this is a zone of stagnant air, moisture can stagnate there too. About the extract below.

You can limit yourself to a simple hole in the wall, but this harmful to walls in the long run- the constant release of moisture destroys them. It's better to make a pipe.

ADVICE! All ventilation in the Russian bath should be adjustable, that is, have dampers that allow it to be completely closed for the duration of the procedures.

AT sauna ventilation is the basis of everything. She is arranged in such a way that air changed 5 times per hour. Based on this, the inlet and outlet pipes are selected according to the diameter - in order to skip the volume of the steam room for the specified time.

In a real Russian bath, there must be a steam room where you can improve your health and physically relax. Therefore, this room should have beautiful view. When operating a steam room, it always has peak temperatures and high humidity. To be able to use it long years, should be carefully considered interior decoration, which will protect the walls from aggressive influence, and the person from allergies and burns.

The choice of finishing material for the steam room

Our ancestors built baths with their own hands. In those days, tow, hemp, felt and other natural materials were used for their insulation. But today technology has gone far ahead, and hardware stores offer a large selection of modern heat and vapor barrier materials:

1. Basalt wool is especially popular when finishing a steam room and many other rooms. It withstands high temperatures, does not burn or rot. At the same time, basalt wool does not emit toxic substances, which is very important for a room that is intended for healing the body. It is indispensable as a heat-insulating material when finishing sections of the ceiling and walls, which are located next to the chimney and stove.
2. You can choose mineral wool. It is made from rock waste. It is durable, environmentally friendly and resistant to microorganisms. Available in slabs or rolls.
3. Foil film is an effective vapor barrier material.

What wood to choose?

Russian baths with their own hands traditionally finished with wood, which easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a unique aroma and many other positive qualities.

Hardwood lining is suitable for finishing the steam room. It has a low heat capacity, due to which the room warms up quickly, while the walls do not heat up much. Therefore, there will be no discomfort when in contact with the walls of the lining in the steam room.

You can choose the lining of their linden, birch, aspen or larch. Each of these trees has its own characteristics:

Incredibly rich and expensive will get a steam room, finished wood from the African abacha tree. This is a dense wood that has low thermal conductivity, an even structure and a rich color palette. The steam room can turn yellowish-straw to light brown with dark patches.

Step-by-step finishing of the steam room in the bath

Do-it-yourself installation work must be started after all the necessary communications have been laid and the electrician has been carried out.

For finishing you will need the following tools:

Floor installation

First of all, the floor is made in the entire bath. Its level in the washroom should be below the floor level in the steam room. The floor can be made of wood or concrete. But most often they stop at the first option.

For wooden floor installation with your own hands you will need:

1. Install support joists on the foundation.
2. Screw planed boards to them in increments of 5–10 mm, the thickness of which should be 50 mm.

There must be at least 50 cm between the ground level and the floor. Openings must be provided in the foundation for fresh air to enter.

Installation of the crate and insulation

The surface of the walls and ceiling is pre-treated with antifungal antiseptics. It is also necessary to seal even the smallest cracks. The differences in the walls, which are detected by the building level, are leveled with wooden spacers. Otherwise, the mounting rails may be at different heights.

Do-it-yourself installation of crates and insulation consists of the following steps:

1. Insulation against moisture must be protected on both sides. Therefore, the membrane is attached to the leveled surfaces with the help of a stapler.
2. To install the crate, bars 50x25 mm and 60x27 mm are used. They must be well dried and free of defects, cracks and knots. Optimal distance between the bars - 0.6 m.
3. Before installing the bars, guides are mounted according to the level. Then the extreme bars are installed. Their position must be checked by level and plumb.
4. There must be a gap between the rack and the floor plane, which will protect the tree from deformation during its “movement”. Therefore, the bars are fixed using special corners.
5. Grooves are cut in the bars-racks. They will be installed bars of a smaller section. This method of fastening will help to avoid deformation.
6. The entire crate fitted to the level is fixed. If necessary, spacers can be used.
7. Insulation is placed in the finished frame with your own hands. It is desirable to fix the cotton wool with polypropylene twine, otherwise it may deform or slip over time.
8. To insulation rough side using a stapler, a second layer of vapor barrier is attached.

If the walls in the steam room curved or semicircular, then to maintain a given shape, the timber should be used in parts.

Wood treatment with antiseptic

Before using the lining for finishing the bath, it should be adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. The wood should lie indoors for several days. After that, it is recommended to treat it with special antiseptics, a wide variety of which are offered by hardware stores.

To process the lining with antiseptics with your own hands, you will need:

In order for the composition to lie tenaciously on the tree, the wood is preliminarily sanded with sandpaper. It is necessary to impregnate the lining and timber from all sides. If linseed oil is used for processing, then it is preheated in a steam bath. The oil temperature should be 40-45 degrees.

The antiseptic is applied in two or three layers, each of which must dry for at least 12 hours. For complete drying of all layers at a temperature of 20 degrees, it will take at least two days.

Installation of lining

You can arrange the lining as you like. It all depends on the individual design intent. It is best to place the boards in the bath horizontally. With vertical finishing lining will heat up unevenly, because the bottom of the room is the lowest temperature, and the faith is the highest. As a result, over time, the boards will “lead”.

Sheathing starts from the ceiling, on which the pre-cut lining is installed using the "groove-thorn" system. It is attached to the crate with the help of kleimers (special metal holders). Then staples or nails are hammered into them. Metal elements will be invisible, since the kleimer will be blocked by the spike of the next board.

When finishing the ceiling, do not forget to cut a rectangular opening for the chimney. In the attic, a layer of insulation is necessarily laid, on top of which a wind and vapor barrier membrane and floor boards are attached.

Decorating your own walls hands go in parallel with the installation of shelves and consists of the following steps:

When installing lining should not forget about openings for switches, removing the electrical cable, ventilation doors and lighting fixtures, which are installed at the final stage of finishing the bath.

After completing all finishing works the selected furnace is installed in the steam room on the prepared base. From above, it is equipped with a pipe and a gate, and a water tank is attached to it on the side. The chimney is discharged through the ceiling and insulated with non-combustible material.

With quality materials, necessary tools and instructions for the process of finishing the steam room work quite easily can be do it yourself. Within a day after the completion of all work, the bath can be flooded and enjoy the steam in a steam room finished by yourself.

Do-it-yourself decoration of a steam room in a bath: selection and preparation of material, phased finishing of a steam room with a photo

The choice of finishing material for the steam room. Staged finishing steam rooms in the bath: installation of a wooden floor, lathing and insulation on walls and ceilings. Treatment of wood with an antiseptic. Installation of lining.

Finishing the ceiling, walls, floor of the steam room in the bath with your own hands

by the most the best option you can call a steam room in the bath, finished with your own hands. Simply put, it is the owner of the building who is obliged to plan the entire steam room for convenience and safety. He needs to think over many subtleties in advance for a pleasant and healthy holiday.

Finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands, at first glance, is not difficult. But in fact, this is a complex process that must be performed not only correctly and beautifully, but also with high quality. You will learn how to do this in this article. I will talk about the materials that are more suitable for such a case, as well as their pros and cons.

The sequence of finishing the steam room

Let's start with the main thing, with the size of the steam room in the bath, and how to choose it correctly. A few tips on how not to miscalculate the parameters of the steam room during its construction.

A stove lined with brick, or completely made of brick, heats up longer, but it also keeps heat much longer than from iron. Burns from such a furnace can be obtained not as serious as, for example, from red-hot iron. The next step in finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands will be no less important.

The choice of material for finishing

It is best to finish with wood, because it smells very nice, but there are some species that are not suitable.

You can finish the lining made of hardwood. Lining made of such types of wood is great for lining a steam room in a bath, it can withstand high temperatures, and due to the low heat capacity of the lining, the room warms up faster, and the walls will not heat up much.

Advantages and disadvantages of each of the materials

Linden , the owner of a snow-white color, does not deform when temperatures change, and is moisture resistant. Such clapboard can be sheathed not far from the stove, as well as the ceiling, since it heats up longer than other breeds. When heated, it emits a subtle, not intrusive aroma. And so that it does not darken in the future, it is treated with a special substance.

Minuses that it is subject to rotting and possibly insects will start in it. So when choosing it, keep in mind that you will have to change such material often.

Larch , perfectly tolerates both temperature extremes and humidity. This type of wood is considered durable. Good for steam rooms.

Minus in that it is difficult to cut along it, since the structure is very dense. Therefore, it is necessary to work with it carefully and only with high-quality tools.

Birch , due to its loose structure, dries out a lot. This is noticeable when harvesting it, so it’s worth preparing with a margin. But this drying contributes to the excellent absorption of a special protective substance during processing.

Minus in that it begins to decompose when wet and will not be saved even protective equipment. In addition, she has a lot of knots.

Aspen , a very strong breed, has high strength, is resistant to moisture and it does not have cracks, these qualities are an indicator of wood on the good side. Aspen is the most suitable for cladding a steam room.

Minuses in that it nevertheless undergoes decay, of course, much less than linden. And when choosing such a lining, you should pay attention to resin pebbles and knots, because in a hot steam room, when the resin comes into contact with the skin, you can get burned.

Cedar , when heated, it releases a pleasant and healthy aroma essential oils. It is easy to handle and cut. Cedar is durable and is not afraid of moisture.

Minus The fact is that not everyone can afford such a lining.

Thermal insulation of the steam room

Everyone knows that before sheathing the steam room, the room must be insulated and a vapor barrier installed.

The choice of material for finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands is great. To date, there are several types specifically for the steam room. Such materials that tolerate temperature changes well, and do not emit harmful substances when heated, do not rot and do not contribute to the appearance of fungus. They are also flame retardant and will last for many years.

Basalt and mineral wool are the most popular sheathing materials. A foil film is great for vapor barrier. Foiled material is sheathed with walls and ceilings and used for their waterproofing. It looks like a roll of basalt wool only with a layer of foil.

Ceiling insulation

We fasten the foil material to the ceiling with a stapler, with the reflective side inside the room. The joints are overlapped and glued with aluminum tape.

We fasten the crate for the future ceiling (for sheathing to hide the foil layer), we fasten it with screws across the beams.

Also, do not forget in the attic, before filling the ceiling with insulation (earth, expanded clay), put a film on it so that dust does not get inside the room, or cover all the cracks between the boards.

Wall insulation

The wall cladding technology in the steam room is the same as that of the ceiling. Just before insulating the walls in the bath, it is necessary to smooth out all the cracks and joints. The insulation is attached parallel to the floor, from top to bottom. Laying is done in three layers: hydro-, heat-, and vapor barrier.

The first layer of waterproofing is needed so that the condensate does not settle on the walls. The second layer for insulation, it is laid in a crate of timber. The third layer is needed to protect the insulation from moisture.

Floor insulation

A floor made of concrete is certainly more durable than wood, but such floors are cold, so people still give their preference to wood.

For wooden floor, the foundation is poured, beams are laid, logs are laid on them. The voids formed between the lags and beams are filled with insulating material, most often it is expanded clay or sand. Next, a vapor barrier is laid, and the “first floor”, and insulation material and waterproofing are laid on it, and only then do we make the finishing floor.

For concrete floor the base is made of concrete and crushed stone, 12-15 cm thick. Waterproofing can be laid after the concrete mixture has completely dried. It can be roofing material or bituminous mastics. Concrete is smeared several times bituminous mastic, and only then lay the waterproofing. Insulation can be mineral wool, perlite or expanded clay with a layer of 10-15 cm. The next layer of the floor is already done on a heat-insulating surface.

Wood treatment with antiseptics

In order for the wood paneling to last for a long time, and not become covered with a fungus. It must be treated with an antiseptic, since the tree absorbs moisture well, and the loose environment is favorable for microbes, they will soon populate the entire wooden territory and destroy it, and later pest beetles will populate it and completely destroy it. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to carry out a hygienic procedure for the tree before using it.

Impregnation should have protective properties, but not prevent the tree from “breathing”. Wood impregnation treatment, indoors, should be environmentally friendly, and should not emit hazardous substances when heated. Floor impregnation should not form a slippery film on the surface after drying. Treat shelves, benches and countertops only with an impregnation that can withstand frequent wet cleaning. Shelves are treated with a special agent, with deep absorption, it should not form a film on the surface. Impregnations for wood are both aerosol and in the form of gels and solutions.

All antiseptic impregnations must be applied in a protective respirator to avoid poisoning.

Wood is also protected from fire, with a substance such as a fire retardant. Of course, this substance will only resist fire for a while, since it is impossible to fully ensure the wood's incombustibility.

Before applying the product, we clean the surface of contamination, if necessary, we grind the canvas. The composition is applied with a roller or brush, of course, if it is not an aerosol. We pay special attention to painting the ends. You can use the room only after the protective coating has completely dried.

The process of finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands

It is easiest to show the decoration of the sauna steam room with your own hands in the photo, but I will try to explain it intelligibly, but of course I will provide the necessary photos.

The best material for finishing is lining, it looks good in the interior. In addition, if you wish, you can make it yourself, well, on the shelves of its store huge selection. Such material allows the wall to breathe, and is easy to install. It can be fastened with kleimers or nails without hats.

Finishing the steam room in the bath with our own hands we will break it down step by step, the first thing we will analyze is the ceiling, then the walls and the floor.

Ceiling finish

The decoration of the room is done in one style, if the ceiling is lined with clapboard, then it is better to finish the walls as well. If you want natural wood, then you should take care of its quality, it must be processed by special means. These funds will provide many years of service to her, keep her appearance much longer. They are also carried out so that the wood does not ignite for some time.

The choice of lining is very large, so you will find for yourself the type of wood from which the lining will be made. Also choose for yourself in terms of money.

The ceilings are also finished with cork, which is an environmentally friendly material. It does not emit hazardous substances when heated, just like lining. It is very easy to mount, it is not difficult to work. But its disadvantage is the high price.

wall decoration

Also, they prefer to sheathe the walls with clapboard made of wood. In this case, it is better to fasten it with a gap in order to avoid deformation of the tree from swelling. This gap will save you the hassle of redoing the whole trim, it will allow it to move if needed.

Think over the design in advance, you will always have time to buy, take a closer look at different types finishes, and choose the one that suits you best.

Floor finish

The floor can be made both wooden and tiled. The tile is not afraid of moisture, but it’s not very pleasant to step on it after a steam room, moreover, you can slip, so most often it is laid on wooden flooring in the form of a crate or a coating that is easy to care for, such as cork.

If you want to lay tiles, then first perform a screed and level the surface. It is laid on a special glue, and the seams are treated with a moisture-resistant grout.

Wooden floors are leaky and non-penetrating. Leaking floors are when boards are laid on logs with a gap of 5-30 mm, and not leaking ones are laid close to each other and tongue-and-groove boards are chosen for them.

I provide a photo of finishing the steam room in the baths with my own hands.

Types of shelves and their installation

Bath shelves are divided into several types:

1. coupe- lying places are located one above the other;
2. Complex shelves- this is when retractable structures of the lower shelf, or folding upper shelves are used;
3. In the form of the letter "G"- this is when seating, benches are placed along two adjacent walls, thereby forming the letter "G".
4. Stepped shelves- in sufficiently large steam rooms, there are two, or even three rows of steps, on which several people can fit.

Examples of steam room schemes

Finishing touches in finishing

The last thing to do is to install wooden skirting boards and baguettes. Check if you did everything right.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step finishing of the steam room in the bath, StroiDom

Step-by-step instructions for finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands. Expert recommendations. The right choice of materials.

DIY steam room - step by step instructions

Without a steam room, a bathhouse becomes an ordinary room where people wash themselves. It is steam that has healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives strength and good spirits. At first glance, the arrangement of the steam room is not particularly difficult. This small room has a minimum of architectural delights. However, during its arrangement it is necessary to observe a number of important rules. Only then will the steam room be able to bring real pleasure to lovers of a real Russian bath.

DIY steam room - step by step instructions

Project selection

It is necessary to design a steam room even before the construction of the bath begins. Its dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

The maximum number of people who will simultaneously bathe in the bath. It is from the answer to this question that the overall dimensions of the room depend. According to the norms, for each person in the steam room, there should be at least 0.7 m2.

The height of the tallest member of the family. This indicator is a guideline for calculating the height of the room. It should be about 20 cm more than its height. When calculating, one should take into account the fact that the ceiling will be additionally insulated and, therefore, its level will be several centimeters lower. Even a tall person, sitting on the top shelf, should not touch the ceiling with his head. But too much height of the steam room is not welcome. This can result in wasted energy and insufficient warm-up. All the hot air will go up, not having the proper effect on the steaming people. The optimal ceiling height is from 2.2 to 2.4 m.

Type of placement on the shelves: sitting or lying down. The sitting way of arrangement in the steam room allows you to make it compact. Shelves that require the adoption of procedures in the supine position require more space. In this case, the room should be 20 cm wider than the height of the tallest member of the family.

The first sketch below shows a small bathhouse with a steam room, in which only sitting people are placed on the shelves.

The other two drawings schematically show more spacious rooms in which you can bathe already lying down.

Accommodation options in the steam room.

1), 10), 11) Clothes hanger, wardrobe.

2) Recreation room.

Schematically depicting the location of the stove and shelves in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying mistakes during construction.

Type, power and dimensions of the stove. According to fire safety standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)), the stove in the bath should be located at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected by non-combustible materials, then 26 cm must be retreated from them.

The iron stove has high power, compact size and the ability to quickly heat even a large steam room. However, its surface is very hot, there is a risk of accidental burns in case of careless actions. In view of this. in the steam room, there should be a free distance between the shelves and the iron stove.

A brick heater does not heat up so quickly and its size is much larger than that of a metal one. However, it keeps heat longer and it is impossible to seriously burn yourself about it. Therefore, there is no need to locate the furnace at a considerable distance from the shelves.

In the case of installing an electric heater, it makes sense to make the steam room as small as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

Electric heater in the steam room

So, when planning a steam room, you should carefully consider everything at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof are erected, you can proceed directly to work on the internal arrangement of the steam room.

Floor installation

The floor in the entire bath is done first. The level of the floor in the steam room should be higher than the level of the clean floor in the washroom.

The scheme of laying the floor in the bath

There are several options for its device.

Wooden floor

The simplest is the installation of a wooden floor. To do this, support logs are installed on the foundation.

Planed boards 50 mm thick are screwed onto them at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

A variant of the flowing floor in the bath. Boards laid with a small gap

It is important that at least 50 cm remain between the floor and the ground level, and there are holes in the foundation for fresh air to enter.

This will provide good, natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will dry out evenly after the end of the bath procedures. However, this option for arranging the floor should only be used in areas with a warm and temperate climate. In northern areas, such ventilation can cause the heat from the steam room to dissipate too quickly.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor in a steam room can last much longer than wood. However, the cost of its arrangement will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally lay a finishing coating on it.

Before starting work on the installation of a cement screed in the steam room and washing room, a pit 10 to 15 cm deep should be dug for water drainage. Its walls can be fixed with cement or tiles. An iron grate is laid on top of it. From the pit, water will go through the drain pipe into the sewer.

Scheme of a concrete floor with a pit

Once the water drain is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the screed.

Diagram of concrete floor layers

The level of the clean floor in the steam room should be higher than in the washing room. Therefore, before starting work on the walls, a mark is made to which the floor structure will reach. And then lay down the distance from it, which is necessary for laying all layers of the screed.

Floor construction in rooms

For marking it is convenient to use a laser level

The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

Crushed pillow. In this case, a reinforcing mesh has been added.

First layer of concrete. You can add a little liquid glass to the solution to improve the properties of the screed

All waterproofing seams are securely coated for sealing

Pouring screed on beacons

Rule. The arrows show the direction of movement (left-right and forward)

Vapor barrier and ceiling finish

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the steam room is of paramount importance, since the hot air from the stove rises exactly up. Therefore, the presence of places on the ceiling through which it could freely go outside is unacceptable.

Ceiling insulation work is carried out in the following sequence.

Hole under the chimney

Hole for installation of ceiling cutting

Insulation in the attic

Laying floorboards from the attic

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bath are built from foam blocks or using frame technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation. Inside, you should get a thermos impervious to cold, which will perfectly retain the heat emanating from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room for a long time.

Before starting work, an opening is cut in the wall for installing the furnace.

Then a wind and vapor barrier film is attached to the walls.

At the next stage, basalt non-combustible insulation is tightly laid between the bars.

Sheathing and installed insulation

After that, hydrovapor barrier is nailed to the bars with galvanized brackets.

Foil insulation and counter-lattice for lining

As a protective material can be used:

foil with a density of 150 to 200 microns;

foil foamed penoizol;

bath waterproofing membrane.

Strips of moisture-resistant material are nailed with staples with an overlap of at least 15 cm, the joints are sealed with a special adhesive tape.

Then, rails 25 mm thick and 30 to 50 mm wide are horizontally attached to the bars with galvanized self-tapping screws at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The crate should be installed as evenly as possible, for this you should use a laser level or plumb line. Start the installation with the two extreme rails, then pull the cord between them. And already focusing on it, they nail the rest of the crate.

At the next stage, the lining board is directly fastened. To do this, use either ordinary galvanized nails 40-50 mm long, or special kleimers.

Finally, even holes for ventilation are cut in the walls. From above they are masked with plugs or shutters. If necessary, a fan is mounted in the supply or exhaust opening.

If the walls in the steam room are made of logs or profiled timber, then they do not require such thorough insulation. In this case, it will be enough to fix foil or foil penoizol on them. Then nail the crate and install the lining.

Scheme of insulation and finishing of a bath from a bar

Furnace installation

The stove in the steam room can be installed iron, brick or electric. A place for it should be chosen at the design stage of the bath. The furnace firebox can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.

Installation procedure in a steam iron furnace:

install the oven on a pre-prepared base;

they cover it with bricks along the walls and inside the partition;

Installed ceiling cut

a pipe and a gate are installed on the stove, a tank is connected and a double-walled chimney is led through the ceiling, isolating it with non-combustible material;

Ceiling cutting is fully insulated

a metal sheet is fixed on the roof with a hole through which the pipe passes.

Chimney passage through the roof

Installing an electric heater

The electric oven is installed on a pre-prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require the installation of a chimney.

Be sure to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.

brick oven

A brick oven is laid out even at the construction stage of the bath.

Only that part of it, in which there will be stones, should go into the steam room. The firebox is best placed in the dressing room or on the street.

Door installation

The door in the steam room is installed last. It should close tightly and not let heat out. Doors made of solid wood or tempered glass are best suited for this purpose.

Installation of a wooden door consists of the following steps:

collect from a bar 100 * 150 (depending on the diameter of the log) a rectangular casing box ("pigtail");

a doorway is adjusted under the casing;

a spike is cut out at the ends of the beam in the opening, which should be slightly smaller in size than the groove on the casing (it should be borne in mind that jute or tow must be laid between the box and the beam);

Spike cutting scheme

put in the opening first the threshold, and then the side parts of the casing;

Installing a door frame in a log house

install the upper part of the box so that it is located 3-5 cm below the doorway (this will allow the beam to move freely during shrinkage);

Gap to compensate for shrinkage

the “casing” cannot be screwed to the beam, it must move freely along the grooves, the gaps between it and the wall are carefully caulked;

hang the door, nail the platbands with finishing nails.

Another way to install a wooden door is to cut grooves in the opening.

Wooden bars are installed in them so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And the door frame is already directly attached to them.

Fixing the pigtail to the rail and hanging the door

Glass doors are mounted on special hinges.

How to make shelves

The number of shelves in the steam room depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the growth of the owners of the bath. In the standard version, three-level shelves are allowed, each of which is 35 cm high. However, it is also possible to have two shelves. In a small steam room, the lower level of the bench can be equipped with a retractable mechanism and extend as needed.

First you need to choose the shape of the shelves and assemble the frame. It is best to make it from larch. There are many options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

Wooden shields are laid on top of the installed frame.

The boards in them should be located loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Shields should be made from linden or aspen. Coniferous woods are not suitable for this purpose, since resin is released from them under the influence of high temperatures.

Efficient ventilation

An important stage in the arrangement of the steam room is ventilation. In its absence, a long stay in the steam room becomes unsafe for human health. And improper installation of air ducts can lead to heat loss and unnecessary fuel costs for the full heating of the room.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room. This will lead to large heat losses, and hence a decrease in the effectiveness of taking bath procedures.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room

The most common and are several options for the location of ventilation ducts in the steam room.

During the direct bath procedures, the ventilation holes in the walls can be closed with valves. And then open them as needed.

Ventilation grille with shutter

Galvanized or stainless steel pipes should be used as ventilation ducts. It is not recommended to use plastic structures in the steam room. Pipes must be fastened to special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust channel should be slightly larger than the supply one.

Having decided on the ventilation scheme, holes of the required sizes should be made in the walls or floor.

Their diameter depends on the area of ​​the ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventilation channels into them.

The ventilation duct is inserted into the hole

The remaining distance between the wall and the pipe must be laid with non-combustible insulation. From the side of the street, fix the protective grille.

The arrow shows the protective grille

Electricity

At the final stage of arranging the steam room, the installation of electrical wiring is performed. All switches and junction boxes must be located outside the steam room and shower room.

Junction box in the bath

The wires are laid in the corrugation over the lining.

Installation of wiring in the corrugation

In the steam room, they are covered with wooden skirting boards from above.

Wiring hidden behind skirting board

Fixtures in the steam room should be protected by wooden bars.

Do-it-yourself steam room - step-by-step instructions for arranging and decorating!

Here is an instruction for arranging and decorating a steam room in a bath. DIY steam room - step by step instructions with detailed description. Photo + video.

Finishing the steam room in 3 stages: we are equipping a branch of hell in our bathhouse!

Only natural wood can cope with the heat from the heater!

Finishing a steam room in a bath with your own hands is an extremely responsible event. And although the masters do not have a single recipe, and indeed cannot be, everyone agrees on one thing: it is very important to minimize heat loss, because this is the only way we will ensure an even and stable heat, to maintain which you do not have to constantly burn cubic meters of firewood or kilowatts of electricity.

In practice, achieving such a result is not easy, but if you follow the advice I gave you (I managed to check most of them in practice), then everything will work out!

Step 1. Thermal insulation

Wall preparation

The story of how to properly finish the steam room in the bath, I will start with a description of the process of thermal insulation. High-quality insulation and protection of heat-insulating material from moisture are our priorities!

At the first stage, we need to prepare the walls and ceiling. The preparation algorithm depends on the material from which the walls are made:

Before sheathing, the beam must be caulked

1. Wooden frame without fail caulked. To do this, we fill all the gaps between the bars / logs with moss, tow, jute fiber, etc. We carefully compact the material for caulking to avoid blowing and heat loss.
2. We treat wooden surfaces with an antiseptic. Its role is obvious: no matter how well we waterproof the room, high humidity will provoke the development of bacteria and fungi. So it is best to take action in advance.

Gas and foam concrete must be primed

1. We treat concrete or brick walls with a primer with waterproofing and antiseptic components. This will protect the base from moisture and will also help prevent the development of fungal infections.
2. In a bath of aerated concrete, foam concrete and other porous materials, it is also worth primed the walls. A primer based on polymeric materials penetrates into the pores of the material and reduces its moisture capacity, which is highly desirable in this situation.

Only after the pre-treatment of the walls is completed, it is possible to proceed with the installation of the heat-insulating circuit.

Frame and insulation

Warming the walls and ceiling in the bath is a process that each master does according to his own scheme. The sequence of finishing can be different, and the materials used are different, so here I will give a universal option:

1. I fill the bars of the crate on the walls and ceiling. The indentation from the wall to the edge of the timber should correspond to the thickness of the heat-insulating material used, therefore sometimes it is necessary to place cranial bars under the crate.

Lathing for thermal insulation material

1. When installing the crate, I provide for the laying of communications: I make holes in the beams with a drill, through which I pass a heat-resistant metal hose with wires to illuminate the steam room.
2. Be sure to equip the ventilation hole: around the perimeter of the vent I stuff a frame of timber, and leave the passage itself free.

Outside, it is worth installing a ventilation grill to protect against insects and rodents, which usually break into a warm room in “slender rows”.

1. After completing this stage, I lay plates of heat-insulating material in the cells of the crate. It is best to use mineral wool with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm, since polymeric materials (polystyrene, polystyrene) either melt or actively release volatile toxins when heated to 1200C.

Thermal insulation with mineral fiber boards

1. On top of the heat-insulating layer I lay a vapor barrier that protects the mineral wool from moisture. If earlier glassine was mainly used for this, today it is best to use polymer films with foil: the foil coating not only prevents the insulation from moistening, but also acts as a thermal mirror, reflecting infrared rays back into the steam room.

Vapor barrier materials must be overlapped, fastening the edges with heat-resistant tape.

Foil vapor barrier should cover the entire insulation

1. The next step is the installation of the counter-lattice. To do this, I fill slats 20–40 mm thick over the vapor barrier: they will form a gap for air circulation under the lining of the lining. The presence of such a gap contributes effective ventilation insulated wall and normalization of humidity in the room.

In a brick bath or in a bath made of foam / aerated concrete, foam glass insulation can also be used. The high density of the material allows it to be mounted without a frame, directly on load-bearing walls:

Scheme of fixing foam glass panels

1. Foam glass blocks are glued to all surfaces using a heat-resistant compound.
2. For reliability, we fix each block with a dowel-"fungus".
3. On top of the blocks we stuff a counter-lattice for mounting the lining.

Floors and ceilings

The floors and ceilings in the steam room should also be given attention. So, I recommend finishing the floors with either a solid board or tiles according to wooden base. Naturally, one cannot do without warming here:

1. In the underground space on the ground I fall asleep a layer of sand and gravel mixture. The thickness of the backfill should be at least 10 - 15 cm after tamping.
2. On the hardened floor we pour expanded clay - so that the upper edge of the expanded clay layer coincides with the lower edge of the log.

Expanded clay under the subfloor

So that the granules of burnt clay do not crumble, you can fill the backfill with liquid cement mortar - you get an impromptu expanded clay concrete.

1. On top of expanded clay, we lay out mineral wool slabs with a thickness of 75 mm or more. We lay the mineral wool in such a way that it fits snugly into the space between the lags.
2. An alternative to mineral wool is ecowool, a fibrous cellulose material. It is blown under pressure into the underground space, so the warming procedure should be carried out after laying the subfloor.
3. A layer of vapor barrier is necessarily laid on top of the insulation. If this is not done, then high humidity will lead to a significant increase in the thermal conductivity of the material.

Vapor barrier insulation with a special membrane

1. Finally, we lay the draft floor on top. It can be made either from a board or from moisture-resistant plywood of sufficient thickness.

Now a few words about how to finish the ceiling. From the inside, everything is more or less clear: we do the same as for the walls, except that the thickness of the heat-insulating panels can be slightly reduced. The trick is that we will do thermal insulation from the side of the attic:

Ceiling over the steam room, filled with clay mortar

1. I cover the ceiling of the bath with two or three layers of fiberglass.
2. From above I pour 30 cm of clay solution, into which I add chopped straw or sawdust (1: 1 by volume).
3. When the clay dries, I lay thin sheets of polystyrene and pour a cement screed.

The resulting multilayer structure retains heat well. At the same time, you can move along the screed, so that the attic of the bath can be used to store different things.

Step 2. Sheathing

Choosing wood

Sheathing the ceiling and walls, and sometimes laying the floors, we will use exclusively natural wood. And here the choice of wood species comes to the fore.

Larch trim

On the other hand, linden requires careful treatment: if you do not take care of the sheathing and shelves, then literally in a year they will darken and will not please the eye with a pleasant light shade.

Photo of lime panels

It is possible to decide what exactly to use for sheathing the steam room only after a thorough analysis of the situation: this is influenced by the volume of the room, the planned temperature in it, and financial possibilities. So I usually give exactly one recommendation: for a steam room, choose the highest quality wood that you can afford!

We mount the lining

One of the advantages of lining as a material for lining baths and saunas is its fairly simple installation. The presence of the "thorn - groove" locking system gives us the opportunity to quickly assemble parts with minimal gaps - so when doing the work with our own hands, we will only have to make sure that the parts are mounted evenly.

Before starting work on finishing the steam room, it is worth considering: how will we install the lining - vertically or horizontally? Both options have both pros and cons:

Vertical mounting of panels has disadvantages

1. At vertical mounting each board is subjected to fairly intense temperature deformations: Bottom part is in the cold zone (conditionally), the upper one is in the hot zone. At the same time, the wood below will also remain wet for a long time, hence the high risk of fungus formation. On the other hand, with vertical installation, there is less risk of gaps between the panels, since each board deforms evenly.
2. Horizontal installation reduces the risk of deformation - each lining is in its own "temperature zone". The lower rows fall into an area with an increased risk of the formation of fungal colonies - but they are relatively easy to replace during repairs. The disadvantages of such an installation, I will attribute the high probability of the formation of cracks in the skin - the top panels will shrink more due to greater heating, and the seams will almost certainly diverge.

Horizontal installation seems more suitable to me

Despite the above features, I am inclined to believe that it is better to place the sheathing horizontally in both a log cabin steam room and a brick bath. At the same time, it is worth thinking in advance about the possibility of the formation of cracks, and partially compensate for this risk, paying special attention to sealing the locks.

The installation of the lining itself can be carried out in two ways. With vertical installation, it is easiest to mount the boards on special clips - clamps:

1. The first panel is installed on the surface, after which clamps are put on the groove - one for each frame rail.
2. We level the board, and then we nail the clamps to the frame with nails or fix them with galvanized steel staples using a stapler.
3. We insert the next panel with a spike into the groove, align it for the tightest possible fit (do not hammer it - the board must remain movable) and also fix it with clamps.

Clamp mounting scheme

1. With vertical installation, this scheme can also be used, but it is not so convenient - the sheathing has to be carried out from top to bottom, so that the grooves of the boards are oriented towards the floor. If you do otherwise, then moisture will inevitably accumulate in the recesses of the grooves.

You can do without clips:

Nail mounting

1. The panel is installed on the base and leveled.
2. We put a special nail with a small hat in the groove at an angle and hammer it with a few precise hammer blows.

In order not to break the edges of the groove, having missed on impact, I use an “extension”: I press a small hammer to the nail head and strike it with the middle one.

1. We deepen the protruding hats with a thin finisher.
2. We carry out further assembly in the same way as in the previous case - but instead of kleimers, we simply hammer nails diagonally.

We fix the boards on the ceiling in the same way as on the walls.

After completing the sheathing, we impregnate all wooden surfaces with a special compound. Varnishes and stains will not work here: the instruction strongly recommends using products that are focused specifically on wood processing in baths and saunas.

Step 3. Steam room equipment

Sheathing walls and ceilings is a very important and time-consuming process, but, alas, it is not the final one. After the walls are finished with wooden clapboard, we perform the following operations:

Solid wood floor

1. We lay the floor on a rough base of boards or plywood. For the floor, we take either a massive board or a tile floor tile.
2. The junction of the walls and the floor is covered with skirting boards.
3. We equip a place for the heater by mounting a metal screen on the floor and the adjacent wall.

Screen installation diagram

1. We assemble a two- or three-level canopy (aka shelves, aka bunk beds - they call it differently!) From wooden beams on the frame. When assembling, we make sure that all metal fasteners are fixed exclusively from the inside: in a heated bath, any contact with the head of a nail or self-tapping screw is an almost guaranteed burn.

Shelf drawing with dimensions

When fastening with self-tapping screws from the outside, their caps must be sunk into secret holes with a depth of at least 5 mm, and the holes themselves should be closed with wooden pins.

1. We install the heater and mount a wooden grate around it.
2. We connect a special lamp for the steam room to the wires brought out from under the skin.
3. We install a door in the opening, which we adjust so that it closes as tightly as possible. By the way, for any size of the steam room, the door should only open outward - for safety reasons..

The door only opens outwards!

1. We insert a special wooden plug with a handle and seals around the perimeter into the ventilation hole.
2. Well, and most importantly, we hang a thermometer that will show how “cool” we heated our steam room!

Conclusion

The interior decoration of the steam room must be impeccable, because the high temperature and humidity in this room do not forgive mistakes. What will “come down” in an ordinary room will definitely “come to the surface” in the bathhouse, therefore we don’t cheat!

Finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands: 3 stages of lining

Finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands: how and what to sheathe inside, video instruction and photo