Water pipes

Plasterboard lining of a spiral staircase. Finishing metal stairs

The staircase must guarantee safe movement and harmoniously "fit" into the interior. It is necessary to protect the structure itself from premature wear, and save the owners of the house from the need to constantly repair the structure and experience discomfort while using it. Rationally solve the whole range of tasks will allow the finishing of stairs, for which an extensive range of finishing materials is applicable. Let's discuss the choice of cladding method and find the best option.

In fact, the cladding of stairs is decoration existing wooden frames, metal structures or concrete marches with landings. The end result should be combined with the optimization of performance and with the formation of comfortable conditions. An important argument justifying the preference for the material and method of implementation is the question of whether the staircase can be finished with your own hands. Summing up the arguments “for” and subtracting all aspects with the wording “against”, the owner will make a competent choice.

The list of arguments for choosing a finishing material includes decorative, insulating qualities, operational safety and the ability to do the work yourself

Basically, the solution to this arithmetic problem is based on three "pillars", these are:

design configuration;
preferred soundproofing parameters;
contingent of users.

An important aspect of the choice of material for finishing is the configuration of the structure, it is easier and more aesthetically pleasing to finish a staircase with winder steps with wood.

The method possible for self-fulfillment depends on the desire of the owner to finish the stairs himself, on his diligence and the availability of skills. Of course, it is necessary to take into account the staircase installed in the central or economic zone and the degree of presentability of the structure.

Choosing finishing materials for stairs

Surfaces of concrete, metal and wooden stairs finish completely or partially, a combination is applicable different materials. For example, the finishing of the steps of a concrete staircase can be made of wood, and the use of nickel-plated parts, forged products, and glass is quite suitable as a fence.

Facing a concrete and metal staircase with wood is perfectly combined with glass railings

The risers and side parts of the stringers can simply be painted, and the treads can be lined with stone and a matching plinth can be laid. It is quite feasible to finish the stairs with a wear-resistant 31st class laminate, parquet planks, and any flooring. There are many options, let's look at each of them.

Stair carpet

It is preferable to finish the stairs with carpet by families with small children, in houses inhabited by elderly people who are sensitive to the excessively sonorous noise of steps on a stone surface. It is not uncommon for the central staircases of respectable organizations to be carpeted.

Families with small children and the elderly prefer the finishing of the stairs with carpet, the advantages of the coating are the absence of noise and pleasant tactile sensations.

Elastic soft material does not need to be cut, it is immediately laid. Fastening is carried out with plastic, wooden plinths, most often with brass rods, which must be fixed in the treads with specific clamps. In case of too much protruding tread, additional rods are used.

To prolong the life of the carpet, felt or similar material is laid under it. Any design can be trimmed with carpet by fastening the folds with hairpins or bent needles.

Finishing stairs with carpet: a method and devices for laying a roll covering on winder steps

Linoleum, rubber mats, laminate

They only cover the treads. Rubber non-slip mats and cut linoleum are attached to wooden steps with metal strips and corners. The corners are used for fastening to the long side of the tread, the strip to the end part. They are simply glued to a concrete and metal surface with a special compound.

Planks and corners are also used for fixing laminate. For sheathing the tread, you will need a solid plank; for the riser, the material is cut with a jigsaw along a line marked in advance.

For facing the stairs with laminate, metal corners and strips are used, the corners are installed along the long side of the tread, instead of end strips a plinth can be used to fix the material

Note. At the design stage, the type and dimensions of the fences, the location of the constituent parts should be taken into account.

Clinker steps, tiles, porcelain stoneware

Ready-made clinker and porcelain stoneware steps with an anti-slip coating are a wonderful option produced by manufacturers for all types of structures. It is now possible to pick up and purchase a complete set for arranging the entire structure with skirting boards mounted on the left or right. With the help of a ready-made kit, finishing the stairs is very simple if the dimensions of the elements of the structure correspond to the dimensions of the products. If the dimensions do not match, you will have to make a screed with a concrete mixture.

Finishing the steps of the stairs with ready-made sets of porcelain stoneware is easy and fast, the surface of the steps is equipped with an anti-slip relief

Ceramic tiles it will be necessary to trim, which is far from being aesthetically pleasing for all performers. It is generally not recommended for facing a spiral staircase: there will be many ugly seams. Facing straight marches with tiles should start from the bottom step.

It is quite difficult to carefully tile the steps of the stairs beautifully; even professionals often refuse to lay floor ceramics on winder steps

Natural stone finish

It is carried out in the same way as tiling the stairs, because the granite, marble, non-porous sandstone or basalt used for finishing is supplied in a similar format. The disadvantages of the material are loud noise effects from steps and cost. Porous rocks are unnecessarily difficult to care for.

Stair cladding natural stone attracts with operational long-term, repels with high cost, the need to hire finishers, not everyone is satisfied with the sound of steps and the feeling of cold

Budget solution - paint

If you are absolutely not interested in a presentable finish of a staircase made of concrete or metal, if it leads to a basement or another domestic premises, you can tritely paint all the components of the structure with a composition with water-repellent properties. The paint will protect the material, but the steps will remain cold. She won’t get rid of sonorous steps either. True, if the facing of the steps of a concrete staircase combines dark wooden treads with risers painted with light paint, the design will become more elegant and visually lighter.

Coloring is a budget practical solution that protects the material from premature wear.

Lumber stairs can be painted or coated with translucent protective and decorative enamel, transparent or tinted varnish, antiseptic impregnation with a coloring agent.

An interesting option painting stairs with wooden steps on the bolts and a metal bowstring

Wood and its priorities

Lightweight material with excellent thermal insulation and decorative qualities is easy to process, combined with all existing cladding options, looks organic in any interior. Facing a concrete staircase with wood will slightly increase the weight of an already bulky heavy structure, and give an unattractive structure a respectable look. You can decorate with wood a structure of any configuration, install beautiful fences with curly balusters, use artistic carvings.

Wood is a material with excellent aesthetic and thermal insulation properties, it is easy to process, slightly increases the weight of the structure.

The main plus is that the wood will make the steps warm, you can even walk barefoot on them without fear. Therefore, the owners of suburban housing have a priority in wood finishing a metal staircase, because it, like concrete, does not please the owners with comfortable warmth.

Modular staircase with a metal frame-stringer with wooden steps

In such cases, either only the treads or all the elements of the step are installed on the welded metal ridge on top of the pre-laid moisture-resistant plywood. After facing the steps, you can sheathe the entire structure with drywall.

The steps of a metal staircase can be completely sheathed with wood or only wooden treads can be installed.

Step-by-step sheathing of stairs with wood

It will be possible to sheathe a concrete staircase with wood almost two months after it has been poured. Concrete during this period will allocate all excess moisture so that the lumber installed on top of it does not warp, does not dry out later and does not deform. Quantity and labor intensity technological stages depends on the quality of the filling. The full cycle of work on sheathing a concrete staircase with wood will include:

Alignment. The surface of a monolithic structure with a fair amount of flaws will need to be leveled. For this, standard alignment methods are used. concrete base: coupler and logs. It will take a week or two for the polymer self-leveling mixture to harden, concrete screed will harden and lose moisture again for about two months. It is better to use lags. And they are built faster, and the weight of the stairs will not increase too much.

Important. If it was originally planned to clad a monolithic structure with wood, when designing, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the finishing material. Particular care should be taken when assembling the formwork for pouring concrete stairs, so that you do not have to correct the difference in the size of the steps with the help of alignment.

Timber cladding on the steps of a concrete staircase is laid on top of waterproof plywood

Laying plywood with moisture-repellent properties over screed, log or over steps cleared of build-up and plaster. The material must be selected with a thickness of 12 mm, it is fixed with dowel-nails.
Fixing step elements to plywood. It is done with glue and screws.
According to the markup, a plinth, balusters are installed, then handrails and decorative details of the fences are attached.

Most often, the cladding of stairs with wood predetermines the use of parts sanded and treated with paints and varnishes. However, no one forbids performing paintwork after.

Knowing the technology of sheathing and finishing stairs is necessary not only for those who decide to do the work themselves, but also for those who decide to hire finishers and choose best way lining. The information obtained will help the owner to identify violations and stop the desire of workers to save on time and materials.

In this master class, we will talk about how to mount drywall on inclined planes. You will learn about the professional intricacies of such installation, as well as how to save time and get the job done right. Detailed photographs for each process will make the explanation as clear as possible.

The device of the frame and the sheathing of the angular converging planes does not differ from the straight sections according to the principle of connections. You can find detailed information about the basics of installing a drywall sheet (GKL) in a previous article.

In our case, GKL sheathing of the attic floor of a multi-gable roof is required with many large kinks that repeat the lines of valleys, ridges and slope mates. Inside there is a vapor barrier and a crate to which U-shaped suspensions for the profile will be attached.

To work, you will need a standard set of tools - a tape measure, a level, a hydro- or laser level, a screwdriver with bits for gypsum boards, a grinder. Since you will have to screw in screws in hard-to-reach places, we recommend using an angle adapter.

Inclined frame device

The first thing to do is to mark the horizon line of the ceiling in those places where the alignment of the plane is provided.

After marking the horizon, we attach the U-suspension and pull the cords for the CD profile.

In our case, a round lamp with a diameter of 300 mm will be mounted in the ceiling, so when installing the frame, it is necessary to leave space for it.

It is more convenient to cut the profile in place, since it is easier to set a solid guide than to adjust short sections.

Note. In sections of a straight ceiling, according to the requirements for gypsum board frames, only the CD profile is used as load-bearing ribs.

After leveling the frame and mounting the sheets on a straight ceiling, we measure the place where the sheets meet and draw a straight line (red in the photo). This is done using a long rule - the plane is selected with a margin for the thickness of the CD profile. Then we attach the UD guide to the profile of the straight ceiling.

Then we mark and fasten the P-suspensions so that they fit under the straight ribs. We insert the extreme CD edges into the inclined UD profile, which will serve as beacons. We fix them at the edges and stretch the cords.

The docking of the guides is carried out only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe U-suspension. The profiles must fit into each other, for this the edges need to be trimmed.

Both planes of the ceiling are joined along the inner obtuse corner. At the junction, there must be reinforcements from the paired UD profile.

For this, the edges of the frame must be free at the edges. Carefully cut the CD-profile of the ribs in place with a grinder (scissors deform the ends).

We install the remaining edges and put a UD-guide on their free ends, check and adjust the plane according to the rule.

Parallel to the aligned corner guide, right next to it, set the UD-guide (beacon) of the conjugate plane.

With the help of the rule and cords, we expose the opposite (reciprocal) CD-beacon on suspensions and stretch the cords. filling inner space inclined plane to do according to the standard technology of mounting GKL.

Attention! Arrange the ribs so that the GKL sheet naturally fits the bottom plane of the wall. Subsequently, it will be pressed horizontal stripe which will provide additional strength.

Overhanging mates (valleys) must necessarily have a gain perimeter of UD guides.

The use of foam is justified in all areas of work with inclined planes. The wider it is applied, the more reliable the fixation of the P-suspensions. This is especially important at the junctions to stone walls.

View of the finished frame:

Sheathing the frame with drywall sheets

Since the dimensions of the sheet are extremely difficult to measure with accuracy, we perform trimming in place. To do this, cut out sheets with a margin of 20-30 mm and fasten them to one of the planes.

Then we hem sheets of the conjugate plane to it end-to-end and cut the stock in place.

Before mounting sheets cut to size, we recommend marking them from the outside in order to accurately insert the self-tapping screw into the profile of the rib.

The junctions of the inclined and vertical planes (roofs to the stone wall) must not only be finished, but strengthened and insulated. To do this, we install a timber or a board with a thickness of at least 40 mm on the dowels.

We lay the mounting foam in the cracks and corners.

We sew a strip of plasterboard, also carefully filling the cracks with foam.

Tip: there is another trick that allows you to create even corners without using a profile corner. To do this, you need to apply a temporary beacon, which can be made from the rule. Drill 3-4 mounting holes in it and fix it on the plane in the desired position.

In this case, the plane will be perfectly flat (unless, of course, the rule is even), the corners are formed simultaneously with the plane, and there will be no need to wait until they dry.

The rest of the filling operations are carried out in the usual way.

Any plane can be revetted beautifully and reliably, if you follow the rules for working with drywall. This universal material is suitable for any planes, including round ones. Before installing on the ceiling, make sure that there are no leaks from the roof by testing by pouring water (simulating precipitation).

A number of questions need to be considered. After all, a flight of stairs is not only the shortest and most convenient way to move between floors, but also an element of interior design. Therefore, it is very important to consider the type of finishing of the flight of stairs when designing. Incorrectly selected finishing material will not only lead to disharmony in the home environment, but will make your home uncomfortable. This is especially true for stairs made of concrete.

Properly selected lining of the structure will not only give a unique look to the house, but also allow it to serve for a longer time. At the same time, you will not be in danger, you will not have to be distracted by premature repairs and experience discomfort.

Step cladding

As facing material steps of a concrete staircase, tiles are ideal, preferably with an anti-slip coating, made of porcelain stoneware or clicker materials. Such a tile is most often a ready-made step. Finding the right shape and size is not difficult. It is now quite common on the market. Such material is best combined with skirting boards mounted on both sides.

Before starting work, all cracks, crevices and chips in the concrete stairs are eliminated using a cement-sand mortar or self-leveling floor. The very facing of straight flights of stairs must be started from the bottom step. The procedure for finishing porcelain stoneware is very simple and is no different from simple tiling. After full laying of the tiles, it is necessary to wipe all the seams with grout to give an aesthetic appearance. Of course, you can call professionals for such work, but an ordinary person can handle it.

Plasterboard staircase sheathing

In houses where the stairs are connected to the wall, or the owners have a desire to hide the stairs and adjust it to the overall design composition, best material plasterboard will serve as a cladding. In addition, this type of material will easily hide all the defects of the flight of stairs. After completion of the work, it will be possible to decorate or paint picturesquely with paints or other materials.

Regardless of what type of stairs you have - concrete or metal, when planning as a plasterboard facing material, you need to create metal carcass from profiles for sheathing stairs.

First of all, when constructing a metal frame, you need to imagine - how exactly will the surface of the structure look like? The further interior of the whole house may depend on this. With the right approach and maximum effort, this will not be difficult.

Then, drywall sheets are cut according to the built structure. This is done using an ordinary construction knife. Important on this stage take into account all irregularities and defects in order to eliminate them in a timely manner.

Fasten drywall sheets with screws. You should not save them and at the same time use them too often. It is necessary to adjust the sheets to each other so that there are no gaps left. And if it so happened that the gap still remained, then the entire sheet should be replaced immediately. Otherwise, you risk distorting the entire structure.

After completion of all work, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the premises. Gypsum dust and crumbs that may fall from the sheets are harmful to health, especially for young children. Therefore, take all necessary measures to avoid dust inhalation.

That's all, the concrete staircase finishing is completed, and you can admire the work you have done.

It is unlikely that you feel comfortable when the stairs in the house creak and the steps sag. Everyone wants it to be beautiful, strong and durable. Nowadays, stairs, comparable in size to the creations of the fathers of architecture, are made of reinforced concrete or metal. The story will be about a steel structure lined with wood and drywall

So, the welding work is completed, the metal frame of the stairs is installed in its place and covered with a layer of protective primer. From below it is tightly screwed with anchor bolts to concrete floor, from above freely rests on the end of the opening in the ceiling. The weight of the structure reaches one and a half tons. In place of the steps for ease of movement and work, you can temporarily put wooden blocks.

Metal and wood are one

What are the advantages of steel over reinforced concrete? Modern stairs are not limited to simple geometric shapes. As a rule, they are structures with many spans and turns at various angles, part of which is a complex fence made of forged metal, tempered or special glass, wood, stone and other materials. Such stairs must have increased strength in order to withstand the weight of not only people moving along them, carried pieces of furniture, household appliances, but also massive decor of fences, railings or handrails.

According to the pre-made markup, the plinth panel, which decorates the stairs from the side of the wall, is fixed with "liquid nails", and then screwed to the wall with screws. In the same way, the panel is installed and attached to the stringer with outside stairs. This work is done after finishing the steps and installing the landing.
The assembly of the step begins with the fact that the riser is glued into the groove on the underside of the tread with the help of "liquid nails". It is connected to the tread on which it rests with two screws 6 mm in diameter through holes drilled in the tread along the center line of the joint.
The tread is installed on a metal structure and attached from below with four screws with a diameter of 6 mm through holes previously drilled in the metal. This is how the connection of the tread and riser looks like from the end.
The marked slab is cut to right size using a circular saw, the ends are finished with a grinder. Products of a complex profile are usually made from prestressed reinforced concrete at house-building plants. Try to bring such a heavy and bulky structure into a house where floors have already been installed. Most likely, you won't succeed. If you make such a staircase only from wood, then it will include massive and large-sized load-bearing elements and significantly limit the choice of architectural solution. Metal, on the other hand, gives an impressive staircase in size lightness and delicacy.

Any technology has its own specifics. The peculiarity of assembling the stairs on a metal stringer is that when welding the supporting frame at the installation site, it is very difficult to ensure the required dimensional accuracy. Therefore, careful measurement of the frame and fitting of parts is required. The ideal option is to perform all work related to metal processing in the factory and install the finished product in the span. In this case, the lining of the supporting metal structure with wood (on the sides and top) and drywall, plastic, wood, plaster (from below) will be less laborious and of better quality. The weight of this structure can reach several hundred kilograms, so special attention should be paid to the safety of the work.

In the architecture of private houses in Russia in the late 90s, the Art Nouveau style was reborn. The inherent lightness and plasticity of curvilinear forms were embodied in the art of building stairs. The structure, which we will tell you about, was designed and manufactured by specialists from three different companies. The metal frame was welded by the craftsmen of the firm "ROST". The carpenters of JSC "LADDER" lined the frame with wood and installed a handrail, modeled and turned in Austria. Forged fence - the work of blacksmiths of the company "RUSSIAN FORGING".

The handrail is perhaps the most difficult and time-consuming part of the stairs. Of course, you can plan out the lurid railings or assemble them from separate wooden parts fitted to each other, as is customary in mass production. Piecework, unparalleled joinery products are created differently. The handrail of complex geometry is developed by computer modeling in three-dimensional projection (3D). Then they make a life-size model, according to which the handrail is machined at the factory from solid wood. Rotary elements are made and customized according to the template. Leaning on such a handrail, a person feels that this thing was created for maximum convenience and is a work of art, and not just part of a protective fence.

The landing slab is heavy and inconvenient for installation; when fitting and installing it, workers require not only physical strength, but also care and caution.
After the installation of the steps, the embedded parts of the fence are installed. To do this, the necessary holes are drilled in the steps and the metal stringer according to the preliminary marking. Embedded parts are attracted by nuts from below.
Next comes the turn of facing the frame of the stairs from below with drywall. Sheets pre-cut to size are attached to metal stringers with self-tapping screws.
The plasterboard coating is puttied, after cleaning the surface with a sandpaper, it is primed and painted with water-dispersion paint using a roller.

High cladding art

Any metal structure can be lined with wood and drywall, even if this was not provided for. In such cases, the necessary parts are welded to the frame and the extra ones are removed. The method of fastening the cladding and its configuration is determined in each specific case separately.

The ideal factory conditions we mentioned are often not available. And if the metal structure is welded at the installation site, then the load-bearing elements of the steps must be leveled. It is also important to follow a certain sequence of assembly and finishing.

How is the cladding attached to the metal structure? Usually, screws with embedded parts, self-tapping screws and "liquid nails" (glue) are used.

What kind of wood is preferable for making different parts? Solid hardwoods are good for cladding: oak, ash, beech, maple and even birch, both stained and natural. Glued wood, covered with several layers of Bona (Sweden) durable polyester varnish, is suitable for treads and landings: it does not warp or crack. The risers are best made from carpenter's board, veneered with the same type of wood as the treads. The stringers and the wall are decorated with plinth panels made of solid wood of the same type. From below, the stairs are usually sheathed with drywall, which is then puttied, primed and painted in accordance with the designer's recommendations.

For embedded parts in the steps, you need to install sections of forged fencing. Then the sections are welded together, the welding spots are hidden by decorative fittings.
And finally, the handrail is mounted. It is laid on the steel rail of the fence and screwed to it with screws through the existing holes.
Part of the handrail at the place where the railing turns by 180 is a separately manufactured transition element, the workpiece of which is made with a large allowance in length. For its exact docking with the continuation of the handrail, a cardboard template is made.
A carefully marked transition element is sawn off by hand, the end is leveled with a grinder. The handrail of the next flight of stairs is installed end-to-end with the transition element. The design of the steps, the shape of the grooves, the installation locations of the dowels and embedded parts can be different, they are defined as project documentation, and specific circumstances during assembly. At the factory, wooden treads and risers are made with an allowance for subsequent fitting against the wall. When installed on the frame, the adjacent part is adjusted. After careful measurement, the treads and risers are marked out taking into account the irregularities of the wall plaster and the inaccuracies made during the welding and installation of the metal structure, after which they are sawn off to the required dimensions with a circular saw. Ends are polished. The landing is a massive wooden slab, the dimensions of which (in our case 130 130 cm) are determined by the width of the march. Like the step blanks, it is made with a large allowance. Site installation is a time-consuming and at the same time responsible operation that requires precise fitting both to the wall and to the metal structure. The fence is attached to a metal frame, and not to wooden cladding. The connection of the parts of the fence and the stringer can be mechanical (screw, clamp), welded or glued. In this case, the forged fence is installed on embedded parts screwed to the stringers. A staircase designed and built in accordance with all the rules of architecture is an expensive and complex structure, the creation of which is within the power of qualified specialists. In this statement, there is no disdain for those who like to build a house with their own hands. Try it, it is possible that you will succeed.

for cladding and final finishing stairs will need the following tools and materials: a circular saw, a drill, a screwdriver, a grinder, a rubber mallet, a level, a spatula, a brush and a roller, as well as screws, self-tapping screws, dowels, silicone sealant, glue "liquid nails", putty on wood, putty for sealing gaps in drywall joints, water-dispersion paint.

Metal stairs are characterized by durability and reliability, however, their appearance, does not always fit the chosen design of an apartment or house. Finishing of metal stairs is carried out specifically in order to allow modern materials to turn an ordinary staircase into a "work of art".

Finishing metal stairs: options, tips and instructions. How to do the decoration with your own hands.

Finishing staircase structures is a rather complicated process, but it is even more difficult to choose a material for this, it is necessary to take into account many characteristics:

Reliability;
Durability;
Security;
Noiselessness;
Style and design.

Actually, the cladding of the stairs is a decorative design of the structure, which should, in end result combine optimum performance and stylish design in harmony with the interior.

The metal tends to wear out over time, especially in the places of welding seams, and therefore it is recommended to carry out finishing work on initial stage construction installations.

Finishing the metal frame of the stairs will protect the metal from corrosion.

Finishing metal stairs

Depending on each specific interior and the purpose of the stairs, depending on the availability of financial opportunities, finishing can be carried out:

It is the material chosen for finishing the stairs that will largely determine the final appearance of the structure, and its comfortable use.

The metal frame can be sheathed completely with one material, but often a combined finish is performed, from two or more materials.

Stairs on a metal frame

It is difficult to imagine a modern interior of a house or a country cottage without a ladder structure, which will make an expressive, stylish accent on the chosen style.

Metal stairs, finished with forged elements or noble woods create a respectable appearance for the design. Modern technologies make it possible to combine metal with any chosen material, open up space for the author to "fly" fantasy.

The metal frame of stair structures is a universal basis, since almost all possible types of finishes are suitable for it.

Stairs on a metal frame have a number of design features, which must be considered before proceeding with the finishing work:

Material for sheathing metal stairs. A photo

The choice of material for sheathing a staircase structure depends primarily on the location of the staircase and its purpose. Also, the style of the interior is of no small importance, because the staircase should, as a result, harmoniously fit in.

The surface of a metal staircase can be finished completely or partially with wood, or a combination of any other materials: laminate, drywall, etc. For a “budget” performance, in order to save money, stringers can simply be painted.

Wood can only be used for sheathing steps and risers, and glass and forged elements, or drywall can be used as fences and railings. However, when choosing a laminate for such purposes, it is worth paying special attention to the class of strength and wear resistance; class 31 is best for sheathing stairs.

Laminate

Using laminate as a finishing material, you will also need special corners and strips that will be attached to the steps and frame. The corners of the material will be mounted to the long side of the tread, and the strips are used for the end part. Corners and strips are simply attached to the metal frame with glue, however, if already installed wooden steps– self-tapping screws with sinking heads must be used.

Sheathing the steps with laminate, for the tread you will need to take a solid plank, but when you start finishing the risers, the material will need to be cut to size using a jigsaw. Instead of end strips, you can use an ordinary plinth, and the corners can be metal, so the material will last much longer and more reliably.

At the stage of designing a staircase, it is necessary to think in advance and calculate the type of railing, size and all additional details, as well as pre-consider options for finishing the stairs.

Drywall

drywall, like modern material finishing, every day it becomes more and more relevant, however, it is necessary to carry out the sheathing of the stairs exclusively on top of the wood. This is due to the fact that drywall will not withstand constant traffic and will quickly become unusable (it will be squeezed, dents, cracks will appear).

Initially, plywood is laid, either only on the treads and the metal frame, or on all the elements of the steps at once, and only after that the entire structure is sheathed with drywall.

Quite often, a laminate is used for sheathing the outer side of the stairs, this option is one of the inexpensive and easy to do on your own.

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a staircase structure is not difficult at all, however, it is recommended to think over the style and a possible option at the design stage of the staircase in order to take into account all the design features in advance.

In order for the finish to last as long as possible, it is necessary to choose the right fasteners for the structure:

Glue;
self-tapping screws;
screws.

There are two main ways to carry out the installation of the selected material to the ladder structure:

Directly on the frame of the stairs.
Using special metal studs.

It is important when finishing work correctly prepare the surface on which the material will be laid:

How to sheathe a metal staircase with your own hands. Video

An important argument when choosing a material for cladding stairs is the way to implement the plan, whether it will be done by hand and whether it is possible to do it with home tools.

For self-made sheathing of stairs, it is best to use wood, which will go well with a metal frame. This combination of materials combines many advantages:

Graceful design.
The ability to make stairs of any design and style.
Ability to withstand heavy loads.
Wear resistance and durability (metal frame).
Comfort and convenience when moving (wooden steps).

In order to finish stair steps wood, it is best to use solid wood beams or special MDF lining.

For metal frames, several basic methods for installing a finishing option are used:

When finishing the staircase, you need to start with the riser, and after that go directly to the steps, so the material will look much neater.

In addition to the inner lining of the staircase structure, it is also necessary to perform the outer one, on the back of the bowstring.

It is worth saying that for stairs without stringers or for forged staircases, external finishing is not needed.

For exterior decoration, it is necessary to mark the attachment points on the metal frame.
Set the boards so that their edges go to the middle of the frame.
Make fasteners with self-tapping screws, and in the future for ideal flat surface cover all holes with mastic, putty or glue.

Stylishly finished metal staircase structures will give a more elegant look and an atmosphere of comfort and coziness.