Faucets

Make a concrete floor in a wooden bath. Repair of the floor in the bath: replacement, installation, useful tips

The main task of the floor in the bath is not only to ensure safety and convenience when moving, but also to play the role of quality sewer device, capable of removing water, but at the same time not rot or deteriorate. The most important thing is to get acquainted with the basic principles of installing the floor in the bath.

Floor types

When choosing the materials used, it is worth remembering that there are only two options: it is either wooden planks or concrete. Concrete option will be more durable, it will last more than 50 years, but it will also take longer to work on its creation.

As for wooden boards, they are laid on logs, and it takes little time and effort. However, the service life of the boards is about 7 years, and then the floor will have to be changed.

The wooden type of masonry bath flooring can be divided into two types:

Leaking floor. It is rightfully considered the simplest type, which is installed quite easily. A distance of at least 3 mm must be observed between the main boards, but it can be increased to 2 cm. The photo shows an example of such a floor.

Tip: Don't nail the wood floor. This is necessary so that the entire structure can be taken outside in warm weather to dry. This maneuver will help preserve the life of the product.

The main feature of the leaking type of floor is that water easily gets under the boards, and special gaps for drainage are provided in the bottom cover. But such a floor provides for the presence of an internal drainage structure.

Non-leaking floor. The design of this bath floor is quite complex. It is installed on the so-called subfloor, which is built together with a heater, if necessary. There should be at least two centimeters between the wall and the boards, and the nails for fixing the floor are used quite large - the average size is 8 cm.

To lay such a floor, you need to take strong boards made or deciduous trees, and install them in two rows.

Important: the boards must be perfectly flat, without gaps. When installing, they should be pressed tightly against each other, since water should not seep into the coating.

A non-leaking floor is installed on logs fixed to the supports. The supports are made of concrete, and their height should be strictly controlled so that it is on the same level. Concrete must be poured under the supports of the boards. A concrete mix of M100 cement is suitable, formed by wooden structures, which are removed after the mixture dries. Concrete is laid out on the cleaned surface, after which the appropriate amount of time is waited (depending on the characteristics of the concrete used).

When erecting a non-leaking floor, it is necessary to make a gap that will differ in height from the main part of the floor. It should also consist of wooden boards, clearly cut from wood and firmly pressed together. A siphon is inserted into the thickness of the gap, which accumulated water into a septic tank or sewer ditch.

Instead of a siphon, you can use a special tray that will match the depth of the boards. It should be installed at a slight slope so that water can be more easily removed from the bath.

How to make a concrete floor

The subfloor for a suitable bath flooring design is made predominantly of concrete. However, it is better to alternate the components, and it is better to do it in the correct sequence:

We strengthen and compact the soil well. It must be in a dry state, otherwise, when dried, it may shrink in volume, and this will jeopardize the durability of the structure. Soil thickness - 5 cm;

Reinforcing layer. It consists of a gravel-gravel mixture, which must be laid with a thickness of 10 cm;

We lay concrete - the first 5 cm;

If insulation is needed, and it is practically necessary to install it in a non-leaking field, felt or expanded clay can be taken as a basis. The main thing is to withstand the necessary time for drying. It is better to make the layer small, since the material may lose strength;

A layer of concrete with a chain-link mesh - is laid for maximum reliability and durability;

A layer of concrete that will level the surface. Concrete is applied in a thin layer, and the main task during its application is to create the maximum flat surface by removing all recesses and gaps;

Coating.

Important: A flat floor surface must be achieved considering the slope of the entire floor at 10 degrees. This is done so that the water flows as quickly as possible to the right place and is discharged into the sewer.

Material selection

The wood for the bath floor can be different, but larch - the best way, however, it will be more expensive in price than pine, fir, alder and birch. Larch is comparable in quality to oak, which outperforms all other types of flooring material in terms of wear resistance and service life.

It is best to use boards with a thickness of 30-35 mm and a width of 12 cm.

If you buy insulation in a store, such as cotton wool, it should be about 8 cm thick.

Important: the boards must be well dried after their processing. If this is not done, the material will twist during operation, cracks will appear and the life of the floor will be significantly reduced.

Underlayment bars should have dimensions of 70x100x2960 mm. Lags - 5x18x24.6 cm. Skull bar - 4x4 cm. The subfloor is covered with boards of any size, but the thickness should be about 20-25 cm.

Floor assembly procedure

One of the options for assembling a durable and durable floor for a bath is shown in the image:

The procedure is as follows:

Underlayment bars are laid out on the strip foundation;

Two layers of rolled roofing felt are placed on top of the backing bars;

Tip: The underbeams are installed clearly from wall to wall so that there are no gaps. The ideal option is to install the bars on the supporting pillars, which are made of cement. Two such pillars are enough for the reliability of the structure, however, if the bath is large, three can be made.

Lags are installed. They need to be nailed down. It is necessary to install one log at each wall and one 10 centimeters from the previous one. The next one is mounted in the center, and from it you can calculate the distance to the next ones (about 20 cm);

Beams are installed for the subfloor, which are fastened on both sides of the lag firmly with nails;

A moisture-proof membrane is laid out on the damn floor, which is fixed with nails;

A layer of basalt wool is installed on top of the membrane. It should be divided into segments that will correspond to the size of the areas between the lags;

Next, a finishing floor is laid, consisting of prepared boards. It is important to maintain a gap of 2 cm between the finished floor and the thermal insulation membrane. It is not recommended to leave a larger gap, as the floor may begin to sag.

Important: the finishing floor must be securely fixed. For this, nails 8 cm thick are used.

How to fix different elements of the floor structure

The backing beam must be fixed directly to the foundation. Perfect for this anchor bolts with a diameter of 1.2 cm and a length of 14 cm. The bolt must be mounted from above, since all other placement methods will be risky and unreliable. Even in the case of choosing a fixing method from above, care must be taken that the concrete does not crack. Therefore, the work is carried out carefully and slowly.

Tip: each subfloor beam must be fixed with four bolts.

The support bar is attached to the support post using galvanized corners measuring 6x6 centimeters. It must be attached to the beam with self-tapping screws. There should be a different fastening to the supporting pillars - screws 0.5x5 cm. Each fastening will be enough, one for each structure, on each side. One - to the beam, one - to the support post.

Support bars and logs should also be attached to each other using corners in a similar way.

The cranial bars are connected to the previous layer quite simply. The number of nails that are used for fastening does not matter. It also doesn't matter at what distance connections occur.

Tongue-and-groove boards are fastened at well-defined angles of 45 degrees. You can mount them in a groove or in a spike - at the discretion of the master. The main thing is to make the fasteners reliable and correct.

Waterproofing should be fixed to each other and with lags only with brackets. Between the fasteners it is necessary to maintain an equal distance, which should not exceed 15 centimeters. It is also not recommended to mount at a distance of less than 10 cm, otherwise the material may begin to sag a little. You can take any stapler to complete the work, both small and large will do. It is important to try out the stapler before starting work on the rough material. If gaps are created, it is necessary to adjust the width of its attachment. First of all, it all depends on the quality and origin of the purchased thermal insulation material.

The heat-insulating material, when all the actions on the fasteners have already been completed, must be covered with a special self-adhesive tape. For example, the Isofix brand would be an excellent option.

Features of laying the finished floor

First, a rail is taken, the thickness of which can ideally be 2 cm. It is installed along the shortest wall using self-tapping screws. This design will help to create a support on which the entire finished floor will rely.

The very first board must be installed with a distance of about 2 cm from the wall. Fastening can be done with a spike or groove to the wall.

Boards in places where they intersect with lags, and each board intersects in several places, must be fastened with self-tapping screws. It is important to consider that wooden boards can burst from a sharp and inaccurate impact, creating cracks, so work should be done gradually. For high-quality fastening, one self-tapping screw is enough in the area of \u200b\u200beach intersection with lags.

Thus, we connect all the boards, fastening them only with lags. The boards are not attached to each other, this is simply not necessary. In this case, each board must be wound into a spike or a groove, depending on the chosen method of fastening.

Tip: so that the board does not burst when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees - besides, it is very convenient.

If it is necessary to cut the board, it should be done circular saw, which will help ensure the most accurate size and neat appearance of the work.

What tools might come in handy:

Screwdriver;

Plane;

Hacksaw (for wood);

Self-tapping screws, dowels, bolts;

Drills for hard alloys;

Hammer;

Level;

stapler;

Wooden materials of appropriate dimensions

Tip: it is best to lay the final floor so that there is an angle of inclination in the direction that goes along the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help prolong the life of the products, since the direction of the water also plays a role in the processes of decay.

And the last thing to consider: if you cut the boards, be sure to treat the cuts with an antiseptic.

Most owners of private houses with personal plot would like to have their own bathhouse in their large (or not so) household. As they say, it is good for the body and pleasant for the soul. Building a bath with your own hands is not so difficult, but in order for the design to be reliable and serve for a long time, you need to know some rules. In particular, special attention should be paid to the arrangement of floors in the bath.

Depending on the wishes and capabilities of the owner, the bath can be made quite simple - a wooden frame, consisting of a dressing room and a steam room, or you can build a real bath complex with a dressing room, a steam room, a washing room and a rest room.

If we are talking about the construction of a small wooden bathhouse, which can only be used in warm time year, it is advisable to make the floor out of wood. In the case of building a brick bath, it is better to lay a reliable concrete floor with waterproofing and drainage. Such a brick bath will be suitable for use both in summer and in winter, which significantly increases its functionality.

Another great option in terms of practicality and beauty is styling. This material is durable and easy to maintain. In addition, the current market has wide choose various designs tiles that will satisfy even the most demanding taste. To avoid slipping of the floor during operation and excessive overheating, it is better to put removable wooden grates on the tiles. As you know, the grout between the seams is easily rotted due to high humidity. To prevent this from happening, it should be treated with special antiseptic agents.

Video - Tiles in the bath

Concrete floor for a bath: durability and reliability

IN concrete floor it is also necessary to provide for the installation of pipes for draining water and drain holes, which are closed with wooden bars for convenience and aesthetic appeal. In order for water to drain freely, the floor is made with a slope towards the drain holes.

Video - Russian steam room: what should it be?

The device of wooden floors in the bath: features and recommendations

The device of a wooden floor in a bath has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include relatively small financial investments and ease of installation. And the main disadvantage is the fragility of the tree due to high level humidity and temperature changes, the wooden floor may begin to rot and will have to be re-paved.

When arranging wooden floors in a bath, it is better to use boards made of coniferous trees - pine, fir, larch and others. Due to the high resin content, such wood is more resistant to moisture, and essential oils, which are released from the tree, will be useful in terms of therapeutic effect. It is also important that boards made of coniferous trees do not become slippery when wet, this will protect those who wash from falling.

Video - Do-it-yourself floor in the bath

Wooden floor in the bath can be made flowing and non-flowing.

When installing a leaking wooden floor in a bath, it is necessary to provide for a gap under it. It is recommended to leave about 50 cm of free space - this way the air can freely and from all sides blow over the boardwalk.

A slope for water flow is formed under a wooden floor, on a clay or cement surface. It is also supposed to have a pit, through which the flowing water will be discharged into the filtering well. To form an inclined line, gravel is used, which is evenly placed under the clay layer. If the screed is made of cement, the pit must be sealed with waterproofing.

To improve the ventilation of the boards of the leaking floor, you can use the blower of a stone stove if it is installed under the floor, and also make air vent from under the floor to the roof using asbestos-cement or plastic pipes.

Wood floors are not recommended to be painted or treated with any compositions. This will not add durability to the tree, but the fact that the boards will stop breathing is a fact. Thus, instead of a rich and healthy coniferous aroma, a persistent smell of chemical solutions will be present in the bath. The tree is in any case subject to smoldering, therefore the best option is the careful grinding of boards before use in construction.

The basic principles of installing a wooden leaky floor for a bath

Installation of a wooden leaking floor for a bath consists of the following steps.

Installation of the floor frame

The work on the installation of the floor frame includes the installation of a log. The logs themselves are laid on stable pedestals, which are poured out of reinforced concrete and covered on top with brick or concrete supports. The height at which the logs are installed depends on the height of the embedded beam (with column foundation) or concrete "tapes" (with a strip foundation). Logs are laid parallel to the short wall of the bath room. In order for the logs not to draw moisture from the supporting pedestals, the pedestals themselves are covered with roofing material. Also, logs should not be laid close to the walls of the bath - for better ventilation, you need to leave gaps 3-4 cm wide.

Arrangement of the underground

In order for the water that got into the underground to quickly leave, the ground needs to be prepared - cut off the top layer of soil and cover the surface with rubble 25 cm high.

For soils that do not absorb water well, it is necessary to cut the soil at an angle and drain the water into a pit about 30 cm deep, in which a sewer pipe is placed. The surface of the earth should be covered with a double layer of clay and well leveled - this will make it easier for the water to reach the pit.

Installation of floor boards

Floor boards are laid perpendicular to the joists, not touching the walls and each other. The indent should be 2 cm, the distance between adjacent boards should be 3-5 mm. The boards are fixed on the logs with nails.

Installation of non-leaking floor. Instruction

The installation of a wooden non-leaking floor begins with the installation of a log according to the scheme described above, with the only difference being that cuts must be made on the logs to obtain an inclined surface. The process includes the following steps.

Arrangement of the water receiver

When installing a non-leaking floor, it is necessary to provide a 40 * 40 cm water collector, which should be placed between the supports and compacted with concrete mortar or clay. The depth of the water collector is 30 cm. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a sewer pipe is installed at an angle, through which water can freely drain into the cesspool.

Subfloor installation

Bars 5 * 5 cm in size are nailed onto the logs, on top of which boards of the second grade are laid. They are covered with hydro- and thermal insulation ( mineral wool, expanded clay) and a layer of vapor barrier, which will protect all previous layers from moisture.

Finished floor installation

The finishing floor is laid from grooved boards in such a way that the mounting groove is inside the structure. In order to ensure sufficient ventilation of the inner layer, it is necessary to lay a pipe between the layers of the floor, and bring its other end to the roof.

Waterproofing the floor in the bath: an important issue

The moment of waterproofing the floor in a room with a high level of humidity, such as a bath, requires a special approach. It is necessary to think over a detailed and competent plan for waterproofing the floor even before the construction of the bath begins.

First, you need to ensure the outflow of flowing water. For this, the presence of drain holes is provided, which are connected to sewer pipes leading to a cesspool.
Secondly, the floor surface must be cleaned of dirt and treated with a primer solution, thus preparing it for further work.

Infrared floor heating in the bath

Installation of water pipes is quite complicated in execution. Due to the gravity of the pipes under the pressure of water, it is necessary to make reinforced reinforcement of the floor screed. Electric cables in this regard have much more advantages. They are relatively light and easy to install, sold ready blocks in the form of a “substrate”, which only needs to be correctly placed on the floor surface, and then poured with a layer of concrete.

When installing underfloor heating, care should be taken in choosing the final floor covering. In particular, tile has the ability to heat up quickly, so it is better to put wooden grates on top of it.

Video - How to make a black floor with your own hands

Building your own steam room is a multi-stage process in which each stage is of decisive importance. And the device of the bath floor, of course, is no exception. To ensure water drainage, ventilation, heat and waterproofing, it is necessary to observe simple, but important rules installation. It should also be noted that the life of the floor will depend on the quality of the source material and the chosen technology of arrangement. If the question of how to make the floor in the bath is more relevant for you than ever, then this article will help you understand the types of bath floors and the intricacies of their installation.

To build the right floor in the bath, the first step is to decide what material it will be made of. To date, two options have been recognized as the most acceptable: wooden and concrete floors. Each has its own advantages and nuances of arrangement, which means that one cannot do without appropriate theoretical training.

Wooden floor

A classic solution that has not lost popularity for many years. Even the intensive development of the construction market is not able to negate the natural advantages. Wooden floors:

environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for health;
aesthetically attractive and able to demonstrate the impeccable taste of the owner of the steam room;
do not require a lot of time to erect (compared to concrete counterparts);
bring a cozy and comfortable atmosphere to the bath.

Varieties

When building a bath with your own hands, the floors (depending on the design) are divided into leaking and non-leaking. In the first case, flooring of single-level floorboards is made, ensuring the exit of water through the cracks, followed by its absorption into the soil under the foundation. Of the minuses of leaking floors, it should be noted the impossibility of warming, because. floorboards are removed and dried after each use.

In the second, installation is carried out with a slight inclination towards the drain hole, equipped with a water collector and a drain pipe leading to the septic tank. The leak-proof design requires the installation of a subfloor and insulation with expanded clay. This method is more expensive and time-consuming, but according to the criteria of convenience and practicality, it has no equal.

Arrangement of racks-supports

It is not difficult to lay a wooden floor for a bath with your own hands. To do this, you will need logs with a section of 18 cm or bars 15x15 cm, on which the flooring boards will be attached. Please note that the logs have a high load, so they must be laid on supports made of reinforced concrete or brick. The thickness of the racks is at least 15 cm, the width of the platform under them is 7 cm more than the supports themselves.

As for the height, this indicator is identical to the height of the edge of the base (with a strip foundation). If the foundation is columnar, then the wooden logs rest on the beams of the mortgage crown, and the top of the pillars must coincide with these beams. Before installation, the lag supports are covered with waterproofing (roofing, roofing material, bitumen or glassine).

Underground construction

The next step in solving the problem “how to put the floor in the bathhouse” is the construction of a subfloor. For a leaking floor on soil with a high degree of absorption, it will be enough to pour crushed stone (25 cm) into the underground. If the earth does not absorb moisture well, then the installation of a drain tank becomes mandatory. To do this, a clay castle is built on the ground at an angle to the pit.

If you decide to install the floor in a non-leaking type bath with your own hands, then the subfloor is insulated with expanded clay, leaving 15 cm to the lag (for ventilation).

Laying lag and flooring boards

Under the flowing floor, the logs are laid from any wall, under the non-leaking floor - with a slope to the side. We proceed to the flooring of the boards. For a non-leaking floor, a base floor (rough) with thermal and waterproofing is first equipped, on which tongue-and-groove boards are then attached. Please note that the groove of the boards goes inside the bath, fastening to the lags is done with capercaillie screws or nails.

Laying the floor in a leaky bath takes less time and effort. The boards are sawn so that there is a gap of 2 cm between them and the wall. It is recommended to nail the first floorboard with nails, the thickness of which is twice the thickness of the board. The following floorboards are laid in 3 cm increments.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor has many advantages, which often become decisive when choosing:

not afraid of high humidity and temperature changes;
not subject to decay;
has a long service life;
easy to care for.

Important Points

The soil is carefully compacted, a cushion of crushed stone impregnated with bitumen (150 mm) is formed on it. In this case, crushed stone can not only withstand loads, but also evenly distribute them.

In order to get rid of one of the main disadvantages of the concrete floor (it is cold), you should think about warming. The problem can be solved in two ways: lay the base in 2 layers, placing thermal insulation between the layers, or form a heat-insulating layer on top of the concrete, on which to equip a warm wood floor.

For double laying, it is necessary to properly prepare the concrete solution. For the lower layer, the composition of the mixture should include large crushed stone fractions (35 mm in size). The thickness of this layer is 150 mm. If the bath is small, then the screed is laid immediately on the entire base, otherwise it is more convenient to divide the territory by means of wooden guides into 1000 mm strips. The screed will turn out beautiful and even.

For the top layer, it is more expedient to prepare a mixture of fine fractions. Level the floor with special care, compact it tightly. Concrete gains strength within a few days. Do not forget to take care of it - do not allow it to dry out, moisten the surface previously covered with sawdust every day.

concrete floor insulation

Regardless of the chosen insulation, it should be laid on waterproofing. For waterproofing, polyethylene film or roofing material is most often used. You can buy a liquid solution. Before applying coating waterproofing, the surface is primed.

After drying the bottom layer, you can start warming. For this, different materials are used:

expanded clay gravel and sand;
boiler slag;
mineral wool slabs;
expanded polystyrene (half pan);
foam concrete.

Each of these components has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, expanded clay gravel is expensive, and the thickness required for the appearance of normalized thermal conductivity will be much less compared to boiler slag. Polystyrene is an excellent insulation, but it is powerless against the influence of rodents and can collapse over time. Foam concrete could win the laurels of the "most-most", but it is hygroscopic.

Use of modern technologies

The technologies of the present century offer new ways of arranging the concrete floor in the bath. Increasingly, laying tiles is used, bypassing the formation of a second layer of concrete screed. This method involves strict adherence to the sequence of construction work.

Waterproofing is laid on the thermal insulation, and a special cement screed is formed on top, the properties of which allow a coating with a thickness of only 15 mm to serve as a reliable basis for the finishing floor of ceramic tiles. Tile samples are glued to a thin layer of adhesive that firmly fixes the material. Such a floor is distinguished by a long service life, unpretentious care and excellent appearance.

Now you know what floors are and how to make a floor in the bath, which will be a thoughtful solution that complements and decorates your steam room - the best place for recreation and recreation.

Floor device in the bath: video

Laying floors is the most critical stage in the construction of any building. Properly laid floors reduce the load on the foundation, distributing it evenly, thereby extending the life of the building. In addition, properly laid floors are the convenience and safety of people who live in the building or constantly use it.

It is especially important to observe the laying technology during the construction of a bath, since a bath is a special object, in the premises of which there is high humidity and high temperature, both hot and cold water is used abundantly.

Below we will talk about what kind of floors there are in the bath, and we will try to describe their laying in the form of a step-by-step guide.

In the bath, the floors can be made of concrete, wood or brick. The latter type of floors is used very rarely.

The fact is that, having a high heat capacity, the brick at the same time has a low heat transfer. In other words, it warms up so that you can get severe burns. Therefore, brick is used in the construction of the base for concrete or wooden floors.

a) concrete floor

This floor is designed for long-term use. Its service life is at least 50 years.

Concrete floor - cold floor. It requires a lot of money, labor and time.

b) wooden floors

The best and pure material for the floors in the bath - this is a tree.

There are two types of wooden floors that fit in the bath:

flowing;
non-leaking.

The design of each of them will be discussed below.

Concrete floor. Laying

A concrete floor is, in fact, a concrete screed. Either a floor covering is laid on it, or its surface is used as a floor.

It should be borne in mind that the concrete solution includes cement, sand, filler. Gravel, crushed stone, marble chips, etc. are used as a filler. Such a solution cannot be prepared manually. Even using a perforator, it is impossible to obtain the desired quality of the solution. Therefore, it is better to purchase a solution at a concrete plant or replace sand-cement mortar. Such a solution is easy to prepare using a perforator with special nozzle. Ready-made dry sand-cement mixtures can be freely purchased at any specialized store.

Prepare a solution, taking into account what the flooring will be. If the surface remains concrete or a plank floor is laid on top, then a regular mortar can be prepared. If it is planned to lay tiles, then gypsum with anhydrate should be added to the solution or a specialized self-leveling mixture should be bought.

When installing concrete floors, you will also need materials such as:

ruberoid;
broken brick;
gravel;
reinforcing materials, for example, metal mesh;
perlite. It is designed for floor insulation. Add it to the solution while mixing;
Styrofoam;
mineral wool.

The concrete floor can be laid either on the ground or on logs.

All flooring work is divided into three stages. Preparatory stage, basic work, laying flooring.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Preparatory stage

First, we install a wastewater drainage system. Naturally, it must first be designed and marked on the spot. The system includes two pipes and an intermediate tank. Usually the reservoir is a hole dug in the ground. Its dimensions should not be less than 40 x 40 x 30 centimeters. The bottom, the walls of the tank are concreted. The recommended thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm. fan pipe. The recommended diameter is 20 cm. It is discharged either into a gutter or into a special septic tank. The second pipe is brought into the tank from the bath. First, the level and location of the drain hole are determined, and only then a pipe is led from this place into the tank. In order to unpleasant odors did not penetrate the room, it is equipped with a special valve.

Having completed the installation of the drainage system, we begin to prepare for pouring the floor.

First, prepare the base of the floor.

Stage	Description
	remove the top layer of soil, pour sand, then carefully tamp. Ideally, you should get a flat area with a uniform surface.
	pour gravel, preferably a large fraction, tamp. If there is no gravel, you can use a brick break. It needs to be compacted even more carefully - so that the surface is uniform and even. The thickness of the resulting layer should be no more than 15 cm; pour a layer of gravel. We tamp it in the same way as the previous layers. The thickness of this layer is 10 cm
	the resulting pillow is poured with concrete. The layer thickness is 5 cm. This first layer of concrete must be given a slope towards the water runoff, that is, the reservoir. The gap between the concrete and the walls of the foundation is covered with bitumen
	After the concrete has set, we lay the insulation. Expanded clay, foam plastic, mineral wool can be used as a heater. If we use expanded clay, then pour it in an even layer on the surface of the pillow. If we use mineral wool, then first we lay waterproofing, for example, roofing material, then the mineral wool itself, then another layer of roofing material on top. You can use perlite to insulate the floor. Perlite is a volcanic rock that retains heat well. But he is very volatile, so they work with him only in a closed place. That is, it is necessary to knead the solution using perlite indoors. Consumption rates, as well as exactly how to use it, are usually indicated on the packaging of the material.
	After insulation, we lay the reinforcing material. Most often, a metal wire or mesh is used as a reinforcing material.

Main works. Filling the floor

It is better to fill the floor with assistants. The solution thickens quickly, so efficiency is needed. That is, someone prepares the solution, someone fills it, and someone levels it. When pouring, the solution should be compacted. This is done so that the screed is homogeneous, cavities, voids and other defects do not form in it. To perform this operation, a vibrator is used.

Before pouring, the floor is waterproofed, beacons are installed on the site. Step - no more than 1 m. With the help of beacons it is easier to get a flat surface. They are installed either on the surface of the insulation, or mounted on pre-marked places on the walls of the foundation.

Filling starts from a far point and leads to the exit, leveling the solution. You need to level it with a trowel, and tighten it with a rule. At the same time, the movements are made circular, they need to be directed towards the exit.

Video - Concrete floor on the ground

Video - Filling the screed over the insulation

The concrete will set in two days, and it will be possible to carry out further work. But the load on the floor can be given only after it has completely hardened. The term for the complete curing of the screed is three weeks and it depends on temperature conditions. The higher the temperature in the room, the faster the concrete sets.

It's easy to check if it's ready. The set concrete withstands hammer blows. It doesn't even leave marks. The color of its surface should be uniformly gray.

Floor covering

The floor covering can be the surface of the screed itself, a board or a tile.

We must not forget that the floor in the bath should be sloping. The slope should be about 2 cm. It is made towards the drain hole.

a) concrete surface

Actually, this is the screed itself. Only its surface must be carefully leveled and, preferably, polished. It must be borne in mind that the concrete floor is cold. Therefore, instead of a bare screed surface, it is better to use a tile or board coating.

b) tiles

When laying, the tiles are glued to the surface with a special adhesive. Do not use as a floor in the bath tile. When moistened, it becomes slippery, so it is better to lay a metlakh. It is ideal for wet areas.

c) plank floor

The installation of such a coating is as follows:

we lay waterproofing on the surface of the screed, for example, roofing material;
we lay a heater on the waterproofing, for example, mineral wool, polystyrene;
on top of the insulation we again lay waterproofing;
we put logs, i.e. bars, the size of which is 5 by 5 cm, no more. Needed for a wooden floor natural ventilation, so you will additionally have to make holes in the foundation;
we lay the board. For flooring, you need to use an edged planed board, best grooved.

If we lay the concrete floor on the logs, then the actions will be as follows:

install a wastewater drainage system. How to do it, we told above;
we level the site, add gravel, tamp it down. Can be done additionally concrete screed as described above. The resulting pillow should have a slight slope towards the drain;
put lags. As a log, a bar of a certain section is used. You can lay it on the ground, but it is better to fix it on the walls of the foundation. In this case, it is necessary to apply logs with a section of 10x20 cm. The distance between them (step) is 50 cm. We must not forget about the pre-treatment of the beam with agents from decay and exposure to microorganisms;
on the logs we lay an intermediate, rough, floor. For its device we use edged board not less than 30 mm thick. We close up all cracks, joints, gaps in the floor;
we lay waterproofing on the intermediate floor. If there are joints, gaps, then we seal them;
we lay insulation on the waterproofing;
laying another layer of waterproofing;
then lay the reinforcing mesh.

The preparatory work is completed, we fill the floor. After the screed has set, lay the coating. Its choice depends on the taste and desire of the owner.

One general note, it applies to all types of floors that are used in the bath. Synthetic materials, for example, linoleum, cannot be used as a floor covering. At high humidity and high temperature, they become a source of toxic substances. The person is simply poisoned.

Wood floors leaking

The simplest floors. The design of leaking floors does not provide for insulation, so they are used either in the south, or in the warm season, in the country. As such, there is no water drainage system in the design of such a floor. Waste water is most often drained directly to the ground. But, if the soils are clayey, then you will have to install water drainage. To do this, we make a tank, as described in the section on the construction of concrete floors. There is no need to bring a pipe into the bath. The design of the floors does not require a special drain hole.

If the logs are laid on the ground, then we perform the following steps:

we treat the logs with an antiseptic;
leveling the site;
we fall asleep gravel;
ramming the site. On clay soils, it is imperative to make a slope towards the reservoir;
install support columns for the log;
lay the lags. Step - 50 cm;
laying the floor. We leave a gap between the boards, the floor and the wall. Gap - up to 3 mm. Through these gaps, water will flow. We do not fasten boards to the lags. Leaking floors are removed from the log and taken out to dry after using the bath. The pillow under the logs and the logs themselves must be laid so that the lower edge of the floor is higher than the upper edge of the foundation (plinth).

The service life of such floors is short. They will last no more than five years.

Wood preservative prices

wood preservative V33

Video - Laying posts for lag

There is another option for leaking floors:

after preparing the site, beams are installed around the perimeter of the foundation. They are made from timber treated with an antiseptic. Its size can be 100 x 100, 100 x 150, 150 x 150 mm;
logs are attached to these beams;
flooring is laid on the logs.

Floors can be made from both softwood and hardwood. most the best wood larch is considered for the manufacture of floors. But, unfortunately, in our time to find larch is very, very difficult. Therefore, when constructing floors, pine is used. Of hardwoods, linden is most often used. Oak should not be used. It becomes slippery after getting wet.

A small digression. In Russia, baths have always been built from aspen. It was believed that she drives away evil spirits and restores health.

Board for flooring is used edged, planed. Its thickness must be at least 30 mm. The most common flooring board is a 50 mm thick board.

Sauna with non-leaking floors can be used all year round in any region of the country. The design provides for the installation of an intermediate subfloor and the installation of insulation.

The work that needs to be carried out when laying a non-leaking floor is as follows:

install a wastewater drainage system. To do this, dig a hole (reservoir). Dimensions are listed above. We concrete it;
we make the drainage of water into the sewer. We use a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm for the removal. We install the second pipe. It will be connected to the floor drain. We install a siphon at the outlet of the pipe so that it has free access. It will be needed to clean the siphon from accumulated dirt and debris;
preparing the site. We remove the surface of the soil, we fall asleep sand. We carefully tamp the site. We fill the site with gravel and again carefully tamp. You can additionally pour a concrete screed. The thickness of the screed should be no more than 5 cm;
we lay waterproofing on the resulting floor base. Most often, roofing material is used as insulation;
install a heater. As a heater, you can use a layer of expanded clay, foam. If the logs are laid on the base, then the insulation can be laid between them. The distance between the lags is 50 cm.

Video - Laying the floor in the bath

Video - The order of laying the floors in the bath

The second option is when the logs are laid on pre-installed beams. In this case, beams made of massive timber with a section of 10x20 cm are attached around the perimeter of the foundation. Further:

install intermediate floor. It is attached to the bottom of the beams, if they are provided for by the design. If not, then we put it on the logs:
on the intermediate floor, you can additionally lay another layer of insulation. In this case, waterproofing is first laid. Then a heater is placed on it. Another layer of waterproofing is laid on it.

And now we lay the main finishing floor. It must be installed with a slope towards the drain. The board is attached to the log with screws or nails. We bring the siphon into a pre-prepared hole.

Vido - The nuances of laying a wooden floor in a bath

When installing non-leaking floors, a planed board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is used. It is best to use a grooved board. That is, a board with a groove on one end and a tongue (protrusion) on the other. As a log, a bar with a section of 50 x 50 or 50 x 70 mm is usually used. Beam - a beam with a section of 100 x 100 or more. For the manufacture of boards and logs, beams use wood of both hardwood and softwood. Most often, either pine or linden is used. Expanded clay, foam plastic, foam styrene can be a heater.

Mandatory requirement for wooden floors in the bath, both leaking and non-leaking - this is the presence of ventilation holes in the foundation. They are made so that the wood is said to breathe. That is, it released the accumulated moisture into the atmosphere. Do not forget that the lower edge of the floor must be at least 10 cm higher than the upper edge of the base.

The service life of non-leaking floors is at least 10 years.

Video - Floor in the bath (preparation of boards)

Video - Floor in the bath (installation of beams)

This is a very difficult task, since it is necessary to take into account the numerous nuances of arranging all its premises. These "subtleties" are due, of course, to the specifics of bathing conditions. Specifically, it is expressed by high rates of temperature and humidity, direct contact of many surfaces to be finished with water, the need to maintain a special microclimate, increased sanitary and hygienic requirements for the arrangement of premises, and some others.

And one of the most "problem" areas are traditionally floors. Not only their own durability, but also the comfort of staying in bath rooms as a whole, most directly depends on how correctly their design is chosen and assembled. Therefore, the question - what is the best to make the floor in the bathhouse from, is one of the most important when planning such a building.

The main types of bath floors

To begin with, it is worth understanding what floor designs, in principle, can be equipped in a bath, and what material they are made of. Suitable Options not so much, since the specific microclimate has a very negative effect on most materials. In addition, the decoration of premises designed for constant high humidity and sudden changes in temperature should be environmentally friendly, not emitting toxic substances.

Therefore, today the floors in the bath rooms are still equipped with wood or concrete. An innovation in the design is the possibility of organizing surface heating using modern systems"warm floor".

wooden floors

Be that as it may, wooden floors are still traditional for Russian baths. They were made in this building from time immemorial - they have not lost their relevance today. The only thing that many owners of baths add to the usual wooden structure- this is their warming modern material like extruded polystyrene foam.

It makes sense to say a few words about the material that is chosen for arranging a wooden floor. In connection with Due to the fact that the flooring will be constantly exposed to moisture, it is advisable to choose hardwood for the floor of bath rooms, which absorbs less moisture, as it has a dense structural structure. These species include oak, larch or alder.

Oak boards are quite expensive and not so easy to find, so the best option would be a board made from larch or alder. Both have good wear resistance and low hygroscopicity. Although we note here that this wood is also expensive, so many bathhouse owners prefer pine boards to them, as the most affordable material in terms of price. But the durability of such coatings is not outstanding.

For a flowing floor, a flat board is selected, without grooves and spikes. And for a non-leaking structure, it is better to purchase grooved boards, since only they, with a good fit in progress installation are able to create an almost hermetic coating.

Despite the fact that the wood will be in a room with high humidity, it must first be well dried, otherwise the board may “lead” after the flooring, and the floors will begin to deform.

The recommended thickness of the board for the manufacture of floorboards varies from 25 to 40 mm. The selected thickness parameter will determine the step with which the logs should be installed for fixing the boardwalk. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between the lags. So, under a board of 25 mm, it is necessary to lay logs in increments of up to 400 mm, and if a board with a thickness of 40 mm is chosen, then the distance between the logs can be increased to 600 ÷ 700 mm.

cutting board prices

edged board

So, wooden floors can be of two types, which differ in their design - this is a leaking and non-leaking floor.

Leaking wood floor

This type of floor is arranged in such a way that it does not retain moisture on its surface. To do this, a gap is left between the boards that form the surface, through which water escapes.

The flowing floor can be arranged approximately according to the following scheme:

1 - The log wall of the bath.
2 - Plinth screen, enclosing lower part walls and corners of the room from direct water ingress. Made from board.
3 - Drainage backfill, consisting of crushed stone and gravel.
4 - Drainage pit for water runoff, filled crushed stone and gravel mix or waste building materials(for example, broken bricks, pieces of concrete, etc.)
5 - Leaking floor boardwalk.
6 - Bases for lan plank flooring. This embodiment shows the laid asbestos-cement. Instead, concrete or brick pillars can be installed as supports.
7 - Cut-off waterproofing between the base and the lower crown of the wall.
8 - The foundation of the bath, columnar, pile or tape.
9 - A compacted clay layer that redirects the water spilled from above into a drainage pit (ditch).

The arrangement of the underground space of leaking floors can be done in different ways, using various materials:

Previously, there was usually no special catchment area under the floor. The water from the bath drained directly into the ground. Therefore, the building itself was necessarily raised above ground level by at least 200 mm, usually on a columnar foundation. And a bath was built, if possible, on a slope, so that moisture would not linger under it.
Another underground drainage system is shown in the diagram above. Under the leaking floors, a kind of drainage made of gravel and (and) crushed stone is equipped. Water flowing down through the cracks in the floor is distributed in the backfill and slowly sinks into the ground. If a rammed clay castle is made, then penetration does not go through all area - surplus water gradually flows into the drainage pit. Due to the fact that the underground has the ability to ventilate, part of the moisture simply evaporates. This is facilitated by internal channels and drilled holes in asbestos concrete pipes serving as a support for wooden flooring.
If the bath is built on sandy soil, then there will be no problems with water drainage, since it goes perfectly into the sand, and it will always be dry under the building.
If the soil on the site is difficult to pass water, then under the floor you can dig a pit, a depth of 300 ÷ 400 mm, which is covered with sand. This option can be called the simplest in design. But with frequent use of the bathhouse, such drainage gradually begins to “bog down”, and it is better not to consider this approach as a serious measure.

A more complex design of the underground of a leaking floor involves the collection and drainage of water into a drain pit located at a certain distance from the bath, or into a drainage trench (ditch). In order to organize this version of the bath floor with a drain, the first step is to dig a foundation pit, the walls of which are located at an angle and converge to its central part. Then the slopes are covered with rubble, which is well compacted. After that, it is laid on gravel reinforcing mesh. Further, the slopes are concreted (pos.1). In the central part of the underground, along its entire width or length, a gutter (pos. 2) is also created using concreting, into which water that seeps through the floor will drain along the inclined walls. Instead of a gutter, also in the center or offset to one of the edges, a concrete pit can also be equipped, which is connected by a sewer pipe (pos.3) with drainage system(I my). The pipe is given the required slope (usually 5 cm per running meter length), and the water flows down it with a simple overflow.

And already above the concrete inclined base there are support pillars (pos.4). Through the mandatory cut-off waterproofing (pos. 5), beams or logs (pos. 6) are laid on them, along which a plank bath floor (pos. 7) is laid with a gap between adjacent boards of about 5 mm.

If there is a desire to somewhat reduce the cost and speed up the process of arranging the drain underground, then concrete can be replaced with a well-compacted clay coating. Compacted clay does not pass moisture well, so water will drain along such walls into a pit, and then into a drainage pit. But in this case, there will certainly be more dirt.

Now that the underground space and the water drainage scheme are organized, you can proceed to the formation of the floor itself. Its design consists of three layers:

- these are floor beams of the underground space (beam or log);

- logs laid on floor beams, perpendicular to them (sometimes logs are not mounted, they are limited to beams if they are located with a small step);

- boardwalk, the boards of which are fixed to the logs (beams).

A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the individual floorboards.

These gaps are necessary for the free flow of water down. And the width of the gap is selected taking into account the possible swelling of the wood with its constant waterlogging.

Some sauna owners make the leaking floor removable in order to provide the opportunity to take out the covering boards from time to time for airing and drying outside. If this option is chosen, it would be advisable to mount several shields from lag beams and boards, with such dimensions that it would not be particularly difficult to carry them to the place of flooring and back to the street. These shields are laid on top of the floor beams, but are not fixed to them.

The advantages of this design include the simplicity of its installation, as well as the relatively low cost of its arrangement.

The most obvious drawback of leaking floors is that the bath can only be fully used during the warm season or in regions with moderate winter temperatures. In winter colds, bath rooms will quickly cool down, and a large amount of fuel is required to heat them. Yes, and to catch a cold in such a bath, with a possible cold draft from below, is worthless.

Bar prices

Leak-proof design bath wooden floor

The design of a non-leaking floor involves the arrangement of a boardwalk underneath with a slope for water to drain. At the lowest point of this slope, there is either a gutter connected to a drainage pipe, or a drain is installed in the form of a hole covered with a grate (ladder).

Floor boards are laid immediately on the beams overlapping the space of the bath room, in the event that it is not planned to insulate the floors.

If the floor is insulated (and this is very important for a bath), then the structure is assembled from several layers - these are floor beams, a subfloor, insulation and a finished plank floor.

Boards in a non-leaking floor structure should fit as closely as possible to each other. Therefore, for flooring, as a rule, a tongue-and-groove board is chosen, which will become a guarantee of the “tightness” of the flooring. This is especially important if it is planned to lay insulation material under the coating.

In addition, it is very important in this design to correctly calculate the slope of the floor. Water should flow well through it, but one should not forget about the comfort and safety of people who will take bath procedures. Moreover, the surface can be slippery from water and soap. Usually, a finishing floor slope of 50 mm per linear meter of length is sufficient, which is, respectively, 5% or about 3 degrees in angular terms.

- To make it easier to form a slope, you can use a board or timber cut at the right angle and fixed to the subfloor boards. These elements will become a kind of lags for laying a solid finishing floor.

Prices for drain pipes

drain pipe

- In the intended place in the draft floor, a hole is cut out for installing a drain pipe with a ladder. The drain hole itself should be located at the bottom of the floor slope or in its center if the floor slope is provided in this direction.

- The next step between the lags on the subfloor is the insulation boards - usually extruded polystyrene foam is used for this purpose, since it is not afraid of moisture. All gaps remaining between the lags and the insulation, as well as around the drain pipe, must be filled with mounting foam.

- Then, a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which is sewn to the logs with staples driven in with a stapler and slipped under the frame of the drain hole.

- The edges waterproofing material need to raise on the walls, up 150÷200 mm and fasten with staples.

– The boardwalk is being installed, with the tightest fit of the floorboards. At the same time, they try to use hidden fastening technology so that the fastener heads (nails or screws) were completely hidden (this is very important for a bath).

- The joints of the drain drain parts with the finishing floor boards must be treated with silicone sealant.

- Then, the walls of the room are sheathed, so that the waterproofing attached to them remains under the sheathing.

- At the final stage, the floor around the entire perimeter is framed with a plinth, which should also be located at an angle so that water falling on the walls flows down them onto the floors.

Wooden bath floors are not painted or varnished, they can be impregnated with drying oil or natural oils, which are applied in two or three layers.

The advantages of a non-leaking wooden bath floor can be called its following qualities:

The possibility of creating an insulated structure.
The possibility of using the bath at any time of the year.
Creation of the most favorable microclimate in the bath rooms.
Wood itself is a warm material, so it will be comfortable for sauna visitors to stay indoors.

The disadvantages of the wooden floor of this design include the following:

With insufficient processing of lumber, as well as in the absence or improperly organized ventilation, the floors may begin to rot, or be covered with dark spots of mold along the edges.
With its durability, wooden floors still cannot compete with concrete coatings.

Bath concrete floors

Concrete floors in the bath - also quite popular option. But their arrangement will require serious financial costs, it will take a lot of time. But, having made them once, you can be sure that the structure will last 30-40 years without repair. However, in order for the concrete floor to serve as long term, it is necessary to equip it in accordance with all the rules, using high-quality materials.

If you decide to make the floors in the bath concrete, you need to know what positive and negative qualities they have.

As mentioned above, concrete pavement is the most durable in comparison with all others.
The material is not subject to decay and resistant to moisture.
The concrete floor after its arrangement does not require special care.
A wide variety of concrete facing with decorative material is provided.
There is a possibility of laying under a coupler or under a facing tile of water or electric system "heat-insulated floor".

This design will cost much more than wooden floors.
The process of arranging the coating is more time-consuming and lengthy, since you will have to wait for the maturation of concrete before proceeding to its finishing and further operation.

If you do not use the "warm floor" system, then the floors in the bath will turn out to be cold, even with the presence of insulating material. Therefore, it is necessary to install wooden gratings on top of concrete or tile.
Concrete floor required decorative coating otherwise the floors will look unattractive.

Arrangement of concrete floors is carried out in several stages:

- The first step in the bathhouse is a sewer pipe, which will drain the used water. Its vertical branch pipe should rise above the rest of the preparatory layers.
- The surface of the earthen floor is leveled, carefully compacted. Sometimes it is necessary to make an additional removal of soil, since it is necessary to equip sand and crushed stone (gravel) “pillows” under the concrete screed.
- The next step is to fill the earthen floor with a sand cushion 100÷1501 mm thick, which will serve as a good waterproofing layer. Sand must be well compacted.
On top of the sand, a layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel is laid with the same thickness, which must also be carefully compacted.
- For floor insulation, you can use bulk materials - the same expanded clay. It is distributed in the desired layer on top of the sand and gravel backfill.

cement prices

Quite suitable for insulation and extruded polystyrene foam. Their slabs break out a continuous floor covering of the entire floor area. If small gaps or gaps remain (for example, around the perimeter of the room or around the nozzle sewer pipe), they are filled with mounting polyurethane foam.

– Insulation material recommended from above waterproof. To do this, the thermal insulation stand is covered with a dense polyethylene film, roofing material or any modern waterproofing. Sheets of waterproofing material are overlapped and hermetically fastened between with moisture resistant adhesive tape or bituminous mastic. Cloths should be found on the walls above the future screed by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

- Then a reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing layer.

- After that, metal beacons are placed on the floor surface, which should not only set the thickness of the future screed, but at the same time create the necessary surface slope to organize water flow. Lighthouses are mounted from the drain hole in the form of rays diverging towards the walls, or parallel to a slope to one of the walls, if linear water collection is organized in the form of a gutter.

- As with the option with insulation, and without it, before pouring the solution around the entire perimeter of the future screed, a damper tape is fixed to the lower part of the walls. This material is necessary to maintain the integrity of the concrete monolith during expansion under the influence of increasing temperatures.

- Now it is possible to pour the concrete solution with leveling its surface along the beacons. Alignment is done using building rule with the adoption of measures for the maximum compaction of concrete, so as not to leave air cavities in its thickness.

- The leveled screed will completely harden and gain brand strength no earlier than in a month. Finishing work, if they are planned, can be moved on in about two weeks.

- Further, if it is planned to tile the floors with ceramic tiles, then the surface of the screed is treated with a primer deep penetration applied in one or two layers.
- After the primer dries, you can tile the floors with ceramic tiles.

“Today, many owners of bathhouses under construction are additionally equipping floors with heating systems. Most often, an electric "warm floor" is chosen - cable or using rod infrared mats. It is much easier to mount it, and for this it is better to choose those varieties that can be laid directly under the ceramic coating.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

Water heating implies connection to the heating system. That is, it is mono to resort to it only if the bath is located either directly in the house, or in the adjoining extension, or is in close proximity, where pipes from the heating circuit can be laid without difficulties and large heat losses. And the contour of the warm floor itself will have to be laid even before the screed is poured.

"Warm floor" - it's extremely comfortable!

But it also takes a lot of work! Before embarking on such a task, you need to read the instructions in order to realistically assess your capabilities. The publications of our portal dedicated to the independent creation of the system - the most difficult to implement, and electric "warmfloor" under ceramic tiles - here the task seems to be simpler.

How to cover the concrete surface of the bath floor?

The concrete floor in the bath rooms can simply "iron". That is, dry cement is rubbed into the wet surface of the screed, and left in this form. Pretty primitive, short-lived, and "gives away a public bath", whatever you say. For such a floor, wooden gratings are required, as it turns out to be cold and unpleasant for bare feet.

Much better quality, durable and simple beautiful option Finishing the concrete floor is a ceramic tile, which has all the qualities necessary for rooms with high humidity. In order for the tile to serve for a long time without the need for repair, it is necessary to produce its high-quality masonry.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor - is it possible to master it yourself?

Of course, you can, if you are careful with and strictly follow the recommendations of the technological instructions. And you can find such instructions by following the recommended link to the article of our portal.

When choosing ceramic tiles for facing bath floors, it is necessary to take into account the features of its surface. In the bath, the pier can be both wet and slippery from soap or shampoo. So don't choose facing material with a smooth surface, since the likelihood of falling and getting injured increases many times over.

Today on sale it is easy to find floor tiles that suit the color and pattern. tile with a relief surface, which does not have a glazed finish. Such ceramic lining practically does not slip, even when wet.

Another material option that can be used for flooring on concrete floors is a wood-polymer decking board, the so-called decking. This material has numerous advantages and qualities that are perfect for bath rooms,

The positive qualities of such flooring include:

Environmentally friendly material that does not contain formaldehyde, lead and other toxic additives.
Absolute moisture resistance. The service life of a decking board, even in more severe outdoor conditions, is at least 30 years.
The material has high resistance to temperatures from -60 to 80 degrees.
The boards have a well-designed embossed surface, so it is very difficult to accidentally slip on them.
A fairly wide range of shades is on sale. The color of the coating does not change under the influence of an aggressive environment.
The material is hygienic, as it is not a favorable environment for the appearance of mold or pathogenic bacteria.
The board is easily cut into a tedious size, it is very easy to assemble. Its mass is small, and the flooring can be carried out without much effort. Fresh air for ventilation.
The material is "warm" to the touch, and is able to fully replace the boardwalk.

Decking can be laid with shields on top of a concrete floor, or used in a leaking bath floor structure, replacing a regular board with it.

Garden parquet - this coating option can also be used for flooring on the concrete floor of the bath, in which the drain is equipped. The material has all the qualities of wood-polymer decking boards and has a very aesthetic appearance. The convenience of this material lies in the fact that, if necessary, the slabs can be dismantled very quickly, for example, for the convenience of cleaning the concrete floor, and then laid in place. The special system of their locking connections makes such laying or dismantling generally the simplest task.

Due to the fact that manufacturers floor coverings constantly working on new materials, and they appear on sale from time to time, it is quite possible to choose a modern, original and affordable option for the floors in the bath.

So, the possible types of bath floor designs were considered, as well as the materials used forthem creation. Having such information, it will be easier to decide which of the options is most suitable for a particular room, will correspond to the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner of the bath

Some aspects of the creation of bath floors, obvious and rather controversial, are highlighted in the video presented to the attention of the reader: