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How to build a bath with your own hands under the floor. How to make the floor in the bath - we comply with all building rules

It is difficult to imagine a Russian person who has not been in a bath or has no idea about it. The ancestors honored the steam room not only because it was possible to wash off the dirt there. Banya was credited healing properties visiting her healed both the soul and the body. Of course, today it does not lose popularity. In many cases, the owners of the land themselves are involved in the construction of a building on the site, since this option allows you to make construction less expensive. And then there are many questions regarding materials. In particular, the floor in the bath is of interest. From what and by what technology can it be made?

Floor types

Before disassembling the main materials, we can and should say a few words about the design. The technology of work itself is quite simple, but it depends on what kind of floor is made: leaking or not leaking. The difference between the two is that a leaky floor has the ability to let water through, it just seeps through it. Consequently, in a bath with a non-leaking floor, dirty water is drained into the sewer. To do this, the floor is made with a slight slope towards the drain hole. What would be the best way to do it?

Advice! Experts recommend equipping a leaking floor in the bath. Make it easier, and the efficiency of draining water is higher. Water drained into the sewer in a non-flowing field can stagnate. This causes the materials to rot and may cause the floor to cool.

Traditionally, the floors in the bath are made of wood, but recently concrete has been used for this purpose. Both materials have their own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Based on these nuances, you can decide what is better to do the floor in a particular situation.

concrete floors

So, let's say it was decided to make the floor in the bath of concrete. What should you know about this material?

Advantages and disadvantages

First, it is worth noting the durability of the material and its resistance to decay. Wooden floors, as a rule, serve three times less than self-leveling ones. Secondly, caring for such a floor is much easier. Thirdly, the dense structure of concrete prevents the free circulation of air. In this case, this is important, because the greatest heat loss in the cold season occurs precisely through the floor.

As for the shortcomings, then everything is quite simple. Firstly, if you make a self-leveling floor in the bath, then you need to be prepared for significant investments. Secondly, the process of arrangement will be quite laborious. And, of course, the gray unattractive surface must be decorated in order to give the bath a cozy look.

Finishing

Finishing the concrete floor can be done by the most various materials: tiles, cork, wood. For laying tiles, self-leveling floors are necessarily made, otherwise the coating will be uneven.

Important! Tile used for the floor in the bath should be with special anti-slip notches. Otherwise, the floor will be slippery, injuries on such a coating are much easier to get.

In some cases, to save money, it is proposed to lay ordinary wooden pallets, which will cover the unsightly self-leveling floor. Here it is important to pay attention to their quality, since the simplest options can be the cause of splinters.

Warming

Self-leveling floors themselves are quite cold, so it is recommended to insulate them. To do this, perlite is added to the concrete, or a pipe system of underfloor heating is mounted. Also, to give the necessary strength, it will be necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh.

Summing up, we can say that a concrete floor, self-leveling or made by simple pouring, is a very good option for a bath. And, if possible, it should be preferred.

wooden floors

Wood for a bath is a classic that will never lose its relevance. And let the tree serve less than the self-leveling floor, it gives more comfort. It is this material that allows you to mount a leaking floor, which has already been mentioned above.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages it should be noted:

Environmental friendliness;
Less labor input;
Appearance that does not require finishing;
lower cost.

The disadvantages are:

Shorter service life compared to concrete;
Difficulty in cleaning
The need to treat wood with antifungal compounds.

wood species

In order for the floor in the bath to be not only environmentally friendly, but also reliable, it is important to choose the right type of wood. Professionals advise using pine or spruce, which have antibacterial properties and, when heated, saturate the air with a fresh coniferous aroma. Excellent performance characteristics of larch. She is not afraid of moisture, while she can be an excellent competitor to valuable wood species. And all thanks to the appearance, which is quite original.

Interesting! Oak, which belongs to one of the most durable and beautiful species, is not recommended for use in a bath. The fact is that oak boards in high humidity can be slippery and fraught with danger.

Selection rules

To choose the right boards for the floor, it is important to consider the basic recommendations. When buying, you should focus on:

Hardness. The higher the density of wood, the more resistant it is to wear. And this, in turn, indicates the duration of the service life.
Shrinkage. This indicator is also called stability. The higher the stability (lower shrinkage), the lower the likelihood of cracks and cracks. The latter are formed under mechanical action and temperature changes.
Oxidability. Under the influence of moisture, the tree tends to lose its original color, turning into nondescript gray boards. In order for this to happen as late as possible, it is important to choose wood with a low level of oxidization.

Both wood and self-leveling floor are perfect for a bath. If desired, these two materials can be combined, which will allow you to do something unusual. It is impossible to say unequivocally which will be better. The choice should depend on the specific situation, personal wishes and budget. But, most importantly, it should be made taking into account future plans for the bath. If in the future it is planned to make it a little larger or somehow better, then it will be much easier to dismantle the wooden floor!

Leaking floors mean such a design in which water flows freely into the cracks between the boards and is absorbed into the soil under the bath.

Benefits of leaky floors

What are the advantages of leaky floors:

in financial terms, the installation of such floors is much cheaper,
low level of labor intensity of their device.

However, leaking floors, unlike non-leaking floors, are cold. Leaking floors should be created in the southern regions Russian Federation and CIS.

Non-leaking floor construction

The design of non-leaking floors implies the presence of a special hole to which water flows along the floor. From the hole, water enters the sump and flows out of the bath through the drainage pipe. Such floors have a so-called "black" floor. At present, the installation of non-leaking floors is more common than the installation of leaking floors.

Non-leaking floors are warm, but their installation requires more labor intensity (it is necessary to make a slope, a "black" floor, drainage, etc.)

Preparing the subfloor for wooden floors

For the installation of a wooden floor, it is necessary to prepare the base. First, floor logs are laid from an array of larch or pine. Boards will already be attached to them (it is better to choose them from the same wood as the logs).

It is necessary that the floors in the bath be located at a slope - this will ensure the flow of waste water in the right direction. To this end, the logs are not laid on the same level, but with a difference, due to which the angle of inclination of the floors will be created.

Note: When installing leaking floors, the slope is not necessary.

Lags are laid along the smallest distance from wall to wall. If the walls of the bath are equilateral (for example, 4 m x 4 m), then the logs are laid without taking into account the distance between the walls, the main thing is that as a result they lie across the water flow.

So that the logs have sufficient rigidity and subsequently do not bend under the influence of loads, support chairs are created in the center of each of them. Such supporting chairs can be made of concrete (monolith), brick or wood.

When the supporting chairs are made of wood or brick, then under them it is required to make a supporting reinforced concrete platform (its thickness should exceed 20 cm). On each side of the support, the platform should protrude 5 cm.

If the foundation in the bath is tape, then the level of the top of the support must match the level of the top of the foundation.

If the foundation is columnar, and at the same time the ends of the lag rest on the bars of the mortgage crown, then the level of the top of the support should coincide with the level of the top of the mortgage bar.

Underground ground preparation

After installing the supports, you can start preparing the underground, i.e. ground surface underground.

Suppose the floors in the bath should be leaky and at the same time the soil is sandy (that is, it passes water well). Then it is required to backfill with rubble about 25 cm thick. Water, flowing through the cracks in the floor, will easily pass through the rubble and soak into the sand. In this case, the crushed stone will act as a filter, so that the surface of the soil in the underground will not silt, and the humidity will be moderate. Thus, the underground will dry out quite well.

Well, if the soil under the bath does not absorb water well, then it is necessary to make a tray for the water stack inside the catchment pit. From the pit, water will go outside the bath. To make a tray under leaking floors, a clay castle is created, equipped with a slope to the pit. The castle can also be made of concrete, however, in order to avoid unnecessary financial costs, it is quite possible to get by with a clay castle.

If we are talking about non-leaking floors of the bath, then it is recommended to insulate the surface of the underground with expanded clay. At the same time, it is necessary to pay attention that there is a distance of 15 cm between the lags and the expanded clay layer - this space will allow ventilation of the underground.

In the washing room near the wall, it is necessary to create a pit, compact its walls, fixing them with clay. A pipe is taken out of the pit - through it the water will flow out of the bath. It is necessary that the diameter of the pipe be at least 15 cm.

Log laying

For non-leaking floors, laying the log begins from the walls to the pit. The most extreme lags have relatively different floor lags highest point. Cuttings in the extreme lags are not performed. In subsequent lags, cuts are made with a small bevel (approximately 2 mm - 3 mm).

The same cut is made in the log where it is in contact with the support (the size of the cut is equal to the width of the support). The slope of the floor should be 10 degrees. If we are talking about leaking floors, then here the laying of the log can be carried out without a slope and from any of the walls.

The beams for the lag must first be cut according to the size of the bath. In this case, it must be taken into account that the logs from both ends do not reach the walls by approximately 3 cm - 4 cm. This gap will allow ventilation between the logs and the bath walls. Logs can be laid on support pillars and a mortgage beam only through waterproofing (roofing material, glassine, etc.). In addition, each lag must be pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Consider the fact that near the foundation, the logs should be located along its edges at a distance of about 12 cm from each edge.

After laying the log, they begin to lay the floorboards. It is also necessary to bring the foundation of the furnace to the level of the flooring. For this purpose, on a site made in advance, it is recommended to lay out a furnace foundation made of burnt red brick or concrete (monolithic).

Leaky flooring

For flooring a leaking floor, unedged boards are used, which must first be trimmed. It is very important that the ends of the boards have flat surface. First of all, the boards are cut to the size of the bath (considering that it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the walls and the boards). Floor laying can be started from any of the walls, placed parallel to the laying of the boards.

After the boards are cut, proceed to laying the first board. At the same time, they retreat from the wall about two centimeters and nail the board with nails (for example, the thickness of the board is 40 mm, then you will need nails with a length of at least 80 mm). Nails must be driven in at an angle of about 40 degrees from the middle of the board. Boards are attached to each lag with two or more nails.

When you nail the first board, lay the next one. At the same time, leave a gap between the boards of 3 cm - 4 cm. For ease of laying, you can use a cutting of a fiberboard sheet as a gap template.

Note: in the dressing room, the floor can be laid without gaps.

When the floors are laid, the boards are treated with a protective compound. You shouldn't paint them - then they will dry out better.

Laying non-leaking floors

For laying a non-leaking floor, tongue-and-groove boards of coniferous wood are used. Please note that the boards should be laid with a groove inside the bath.

Before you start laying the floor, you need to make a "black" floor. For this purpose, bars with a section of 50 mm x 50 mm are attached from below along the edges of the log. Between the lags, a "black" floor is laid on these bars. For this use:

cutting boards,
unedged board,
a board of the third or second grade,
croaker.

After laying the "black" floor, a layer of waterproofing is laid on top:

glassine,
ruberoid,
waterproofing film.

Then lay out a layer of insulation. Expanded clay is well suited for this - it is poured between the lags.

Then waterproofing is done again on top.

And now, the "rough" floor is completely ready, you can start laying the tongue-and-groove boards of the finishing floor. Boards in the steam room and sink can not be fixed with nails. Thanks to this, you can easily remove the boards and dry them. Such floors are fixed along the edges with a bar with a section of 20 mm x 30 mm. The bars are fixed on the logs with screws. When the floor needs to be removed, the bars are very easy to dismantle.

In the washing room (in the corners), during flooring, it is required to leave holes in which pipes will then be installed (asbestos-cement or galvanized steel or PVC). Pipe diameter can be from 50 mm to 100 mm. Thus, you will arrange good ventilation in the room.

After assembling the log cabin of the bath and installing doors and windows, you need to think about installing the flooring. How to make a floor in the bath different ways, we will tell in this article. By following all the steps, you can complete the work without errors and with high quality.

Planning or choosing the type of flooring for the bath

Before installing the floor in the bath, you need to decide what it will be: wooden or screed. Several factors influence the choice:

The type of material from which the floor joists are made.
The material from which the bath is built.
What is the planned drainage system.
Purpose of the premises (steam room and washing room combined or separate, use dry steam or wet, etc.)
material side.

Wooden floor - features and purpose

The wooden floor in the baths is used in most cases. Such popularity is associated with the availability of material and the speed of installation (no need to take technical breaks in work). You can buy floorboards or logs already treated with an antiseptic and dried. And the laying process is simple, and even a beginner, after reading step by step instructions, can cover the floor. Of course, mistakes are made in any work, but if you watch the thematic video and read the article to the end, you can handle it. Flooring alone is difficult, so it is better to look for 1-2 helpers.

For a bath, there are several ways to lay floors, but the simplest:

"cold" flowing;
"warm" not leaking.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Cold floor - design features

Boards of "cold" coating are laid with a gap of 4-5 mm. It is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the baths, but flows into the underground. Since the floor similar design cold all the time, it is recommended to use only in southern regions country or for a bath at a summer cottage.

The structure cannot be insulated, so it will not be comfortable to use the bath in cold weather. Of course, there is an option when the flooring is raised above the level of the pillow under the stove, and special ventilation is made. So the floor warms up during the firebox and dries quickly. We will talk in more detail about how to do this with your own hands in one of the following articles.

"Warm" floor - design features

The warm version is mounted from boards that are tightly adjacent to each other, which have a slight slope. The slope is mounted to a special drain, which, in turn, is built into the collector where all the moisture accumulates. From there, the water flows by gravity through inclined pipes, outside the bath. This design resembles a "pie". The upper boards are laid on the draft of the lower one, a heater is placed between them. It is hidden from moisture and steam is made into insulation.

The main advantages of this design:

moisture does not accumulate near the foundation;
the floor is additionally insulated, which means it will warm up;
due to special system drain, floorboards will last longer.

Concrete screed in the bath-features and purpose

Screeding floors in baths is a more time-consuming process that requires some skill and theoretical knowledge. A concrete screed for the bath floor can be made in several ways: pouring directly onto the ground, screed on draft floor. It is easier to do the first method yourself.

Screed on the ground - features

A concrete screed is performed on previously removed soil and a sand cushion (this is shown in the photo). After drying, the coating has an unsightly appearance and needs finishing. Of course, you can just paint the floor with paint, but since the bathhouse will constantly be heated to high temperatures, then chemical compositions in the use of baths are undesirable. The easiest way to put ceramic tiles or a natural stone. But both options are expensive and labor intensive.

Recently, know-how “warm floor” has been used in concrete screed. It is infrared, water and cable. But laying in damp rooms requires special knowledge, therefore it is not recommended to do it yourself.

It is important when using a concrete screed in baths to properly waterproof and heat-insulate the floor. Insulation is made of polymeric material, such as PSB-S-35. The price of the material is from 70 rubles.

Installation of flooring in baths and saunas

Any of the options considered is suitable for a bath in a private house or cottage. And how to make the coating correctly, observing the basic rules and features of the technology, we will tell you in more detail.

Installation of a "cold" leaking floor

As lags for a leaking floor, you can use metal or wooden sticks of rectangular or rounded section. You need to choose depending on the material from which the log house was built. So, for a bath from a bar, it is better to use a tree with a cross section of at least 100 mm.

Before laying, the logs must be treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Used engine oil is used as an economy. Antiseptics take any, but it is better to direct appointment "for baths."

Wood before laying is dried to a moisture content of less than 12-10% or purchased ready-made, kiln-dried.

Laying the base under the floor

The installation of the log must be carried out parallel to the wall, which has a shorter length. To stiffen, columns of reinforced concrete are poured under them, the distance between them should not be more than 1 m. Spread out in the following steps:

at the installation sites, the top layer of soil is removed and a pillow of crushed stone and sand (10-15 cm) and reinforced mesh is poured;
columns of red brick are laid out or pieces of reinforced concrete slab are laid;
the structure is waterproofed with bituminous mastic.

If the foundation for the bath was columnar, then the level of the log should be parallel and equal in level to the embedded log. With tape - the upper part of the foundation.

On top of the pillars, waterproofing is laid in 2 layers and logs are mounted. They need to be laid leaving a distance from the main walls of at least 4-5 cm, on all sides, these gaps are needed for ventilation.

Underground drain installation

It is necessary to implement a system that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from accumulating near the foundation. To do this, you need to study the soil, since the design will depend on the absorption of moisture:

With soil that is well absorbed by moisture, the top layer is removed around the entire perimeter of the bath and a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 250 mm is poured. It is used as a filter. Moisture will pass through the filter and be absorbed into the soil. This is the easiest way.
With poorly absorbent soil, a slope of 10 ° is made towards a specially prepared drain (a pit at least 30–40 cm deep, in which a PVC drain pipe with a diameter of 15 cm or more, covered with crushed stone, is laid). In order for the water to drain more evenly, the soil can be covered with clay and compacted.

Laying floor boards

Floor boards can be used even without edged ones, the main thing is to level and trim them. Laying starts from the wall, stepping back 2 cm. Laying is perpendicular to the lags.

Boards can be fastened to the joists with screws or nails at an angle of 45 °. To make the gaps between the boards the same, use pieces of plywood 3-5 mm thick.

Installation of a "warm" non-leaking floor

Lags under the structure are laid in exactly the same way as in the first case. To organize the slope of the floor, you need to make cuts of 2-4 mm in each log, except for those located near the walls.

Installation of the drain system

A pit 400x400 mm and a depth of 300 mm is used as a water intake (the design diagram is in the photo above). You need to dig it between two supports. For waterproofing, a “clay castle” is made in the water collector or the walls are poured with concrete and coated with bitumen.

At the bottom, stepping back 2 cm, a drain pipe is mounted, which must be laid at an angle. Suitable for this PVC pipe with a cross section of at least 15 cm.

Laying floor boards

Floor installation begins with a rough bottom layer. For its fastening, 50x50 mm bars are attached to the beams on both sides along the entire length. Draft boards are laid on these bars, you can use any remaining after construction, even a small round timber. At least 60 mm must be retreated from the top of the beam, it depends on the thickness of the proposed insulation, it should not overlap the upper part of the log.

Waterproofing is spread on top of the subfloor. it must be overlapped, fasten the joints with bituminous mastic or adhesive tape (depending on the type of waterproofing). A heater is laid on top of the waterproofing (mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay, sawdust with PVA, etc.). The insulation must be protected by covering it with a vapor barrier layer.

The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, attached to the logs with a construction stapler.

A finishing board from the board is mounted on top. it is better to use tongue and groove with a tongue and groove. So water cannot get between the boards. It is better to mount boards by putting each subsequent one on a spike, so there is less chance of spoiling the lock connection. A pipe is mounted in an inclined drain, the end of which will go into the water collector.

It is important to leave a ventilated gap of at least 10 - 15 mm between the main coating and the insulation, where an additional exhaust pipe is led out.

As floorboards for a bath, it is better to use products that are resistant to water, such as larch, aspen. Otherwise, the floor will quickly rot, which will never happen with a concrete screed.

Installation of a concrete screed - features of installation in baths

The top layer of soil is removed along the entire inner perimeter, at least 30-40 cm. The soil is rammed. 100 mm of coarse-grained sand is laid on top. Then a layer of crushed stone 200 mm and two layers of roofing material. At the same time, it is important to leave space for future acceptance before filling the sand.

The next step is to dig out a place for acceptance, its walls must be concreted to a thickness of at least 50 mm. From above it is covered with rubble and a drain pipe is removed. Only after that you can proceed to the screed.

Filling the screed on the floor of the bath

The installation of the screed is carried out in the following steps:

The first layer is poured with concrete to a height of 5 - 6 cm, it is allowed to dry (but not completely dry);
A layer of thermal insulation PSB-S-35 is spread out (you can take any thickness, standard 5 and 10 cm);
To give rigidity, a reinforced mesh is laid;
The final layer of concrete is poured in 6 - 9 cm. To give hardness, it is necessary to pour the final layer, at an angle of 10 -15 °, towards the drain, where the pipe is mounted.

Above concrete screed decorate with tiles, there are many of them in construction centers, the price starts from 210 rubles / m2. Can think own design and choose a cover for it. All depending on the size of the wallet and imagination.

How to make the floor in the bath with your own hands photo and video

How to make a bathroom floor detailed instructions and description of all works with photo and video materials, features of various structures made of wood and concrete screed

Floor in the bath: 3 materials and DIY work

Floors deserve special attention in the process of arranging a bath. There are a lot of pleasures outside the city: fishing, giving, hiking with tents and looking for mushrooms with berries, and, of course, a bath. When building a bath, it is important to take into account its huge difference from, for example, country house and other premises. The bath needs a large margin of safety and the ability to remove moisture. From a large steam exposure, not only the walls, but also the floor of the bath can rot and become unusable, thereby creating a danger to others. Therefore, it is necessary to consider many options for the correct construction of the floor, which will not rot, but provide water drainage. Before you make the floor in the bath with your own hands, it is better to study step by step guide, to avoid wrong actions and costly consequences.

What is better to make the floor in the bath

The main and most important requirement that applies to the floor of the bath is warmth. The floor must be made very warm, because after steam procedures, and on time, no one likes to step on a cold floor. A warm floor will not cause any discomfort, therefore, the choice of material is treated with great demands, it should easily conduct heat. Concrete flooring is best covered with decking, other materials also have their own characteristics.

Laying floors is the most important stage in the construction of any building.

What materials do the floor in the bath:

Wood flooring. Pine, fir, spruce or larch are selected. Especially note the high quality of coniferous trees. Because of the resin, they last longer than others. Softwood floors are non-slip, have healing properties and a great smell.
Ceramic floor. This floor, unlike wooden planks, lasts a long time and does not rot. But it gets very hot. In order not to get hit by heat, wooden grates are placed on the tile, which are easily removed and dried. They prefer to lay tiled floors in the house, but they are also suitable for a bath. The scheme of their laying is simple, and if the heat comes from the stove, then you can successfully beat the interior. This is a very practical item.
Concrete floors. To lay a concrete floor correctly, you need to be very careful. It is not recommended to lay a concrete floor in an ordinary bath room, where, for example, it is customary to drink tea.

But in the steam room, it can be quite acceptable. The construction of a concrete floor begins after compaction of the floor with crushed stone and sand. Warming comes from thermal insulation with felt or expanded clay. Keep a slope to collect water and waste it. The floorboard is interchangeable and can be easily removed and redone. Concrete pavement will be more difficult to remove and correct errors. The design of concrete floors should have a small opening for ventilation.

This will protect the floor from rotting, and the bath from a terrible smell. For a warmer floor, concrete is laid in several layers.

The floors in the bath are distinguished by the place of their use. In the steam room, shower and other rooms. In the shower, it is more common to make a floor of tiles with water insulation. It is not profitable to make wooden floors in the shower room, because high humidity will quickly ruin this material. The floors in the sauna or steam room are more suitable for wood and tiles, while in other dryer rooms you can also lay a laminate, the main thing is that the room is not very wet. Therefore, what floors are needed for the room are selected depending on its purpose.

Concrete floor in a wooden bath and its advantages

The floor in the bath practically does not heat up above 35 degrees. Therefore, it is not recommended to stand on the concrete floor after the steam room, you can get a heat stroke. That is why wooden gratings are laid on the concrete floor. They are low maintenance and easy to clean, and safety is paramount.

The most important thing is that your floor must be warm, because when using water procedures, I think you will not like to step barefoot on a cold floor

What are the advantages of a concrete floor:

Absolute resistance to damp air and sudden changes in temperature;
Weakly susceptible to decay;
Moisture does not destroy concrete;
Easy care;
Concrete can be beautifully beaten in the interior.

Making a concrete floor in a wooden bath is quite simple. Concrete floors are placed on logs on top of the ground. Logs are best made from wood. A beam is fixed to the log, making a kind of strip. Having processed lags and others wooden materials antiseptic, put a rough floor (use a board). A hole is made in this floor for draining water. They trim the subfloor with waterproofing, then with insulation, then again with waterproofing. A mesh of reinforcement is laid on top of it, a slope is set towards the drain and the concrete screed is poured with concrete, observing the angle of inclination. For wooden bath more insulation is needed, so in this case there are two.

The usual floor in the bath from the boards: what kind of wood is most suitable

Making wooden floors in the bath, you can quite successfully create the atmosphere of a village house for steam treatments and meeting friends over a cup of tea after a good and healing effect of a broom in the steam room. The smell of the bathhouse, the smell of wood and leaves, the floors with woody ornaments and their naturalness have a particularly positive effect on others.

In the bath, it is best to make a floor from tree species such as fir, pine, larch or spruce

Pine breeds. Very easy to handle and inexpensive. Deformation is excluded with proper drying of the tree. But there is a drawback: pine boards rot quickly if they are exposed to moisture. Accordingly, fungi and other organisms develop at a breakneck pace. Therefore, pine is preferred to be used for lag in the construction of bath floors.
Aspen and linden. They are inexpensive, but darken after exposure to temperature. Medicinal properties famous not for the first year, and the ornament of this type of wood creates a bathing atmosphere. Needs very frequent processing.
Cedar tree. Durable wood. In appearance, it has a great advantage over other types of wood. Virtually no decay. Expensive.

Also, the floors in the bath are made of larch, oak and other types of wood. The criterion for choosing boards for the floor in the bath depends not only on finances. Here it is important to take into account the features of the room where the floor is laid. It is necessary to take into account water resistance, density and the possibility of decay.

How to make a floor in a bath: the specifics of wood material

When installing a wooden floor, you need to consider not only the design. Not always beautiful interior stands for quality material. Therefore, the wooden floor in the bath can last a long time, if certain nuances are observed.

Bath floor design and implementation is critical

Features of the wooden floor in the bath:

Compliance with the rules of acclimatization. The boards must “get used” to the temperature and humidity of the room where they will be installed. Therefore, they are left there for a couple of days.
You need to process the boards with an antiseptic. This will eliminate the formation of fungus and rotting. Processing must be subjected to all elements of the floor made of wood, even logs.
Compliance with floor installation rules. The technological difference between a leaky and non-leaking floor has long been known. The floor is laid in the bath in compliance with the laying scheme. It is important to remember to observe the angle of inclination for a non-leaking floor or gaps for a leaking one.

If you treat things carefully and carefully, take care of them in a timely manner appearance and follow the safety rules, then they can serve a great and long service, especially if it is such a pleasant thing as a bath.

Warm floor in the bath from the stove: water heating scheme

The floors in the bath can be heated not only with the help of a heater. They can be heated with a stove.

Do not rush to buy an electric floor heating system if you have a stove in this facility. You can make a water heated floor

Scheme of heating floors in a bath using a stove:

The first draft screed is placed to prevent distortion and distortion;
The second layer is laid with a waterproofing sheet, which helps to eliminate the possibility of condensation;
In the third stage, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the material for heat insulation;
A substrate is installed for the desired reflection of heat;
The location of the heating main itself;

Filling everything with a screed with a slight inclination of the surface and laying the coating for a perfect interior.

Choosing the floor in the bath, installing it, observing all the installation rules and taking care of the material, the consumer not only acquires an additional angle on fresh air, but also a new leisure. A large number of gatherings with loved ones can be in such a bath, with a warm floor.

Do-it-yourself floor design for a bath (interior photo)

The floor in the bath: how to do it yourself, a step-by-step guide, what is better, the floor from the stove, the scheme of the concrete

The floor in the bath will help direct the bath procedures in the right direction. But how to choose the most rational material for the floor and what is more reliable: concrete or wood.

Floor in the bath - different options for arranging a quality base

Arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given special attention. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how competently its design is thought out and implemented.

Materials for arranging floors in the steam room - what to use?

The floor base in the bath performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of human movement during water procedures, but is also part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in the bath does not wear out ahead of time, does not rot due to high humidity, and effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the foundations we are interested in are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coatings are used much less frequently. They are expensive and quite difficult to arrange with your own hands.

If you want to build a capital stone or brick sauna room with a rest room, a separate steam room, a washing department, a dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise opting for a concrete base. It must be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small jars, operated exclusively in summer time, simpler wooden floors will do. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, have a very presentable appearance.

Wooden floors in the bath are short-lived

Wooden bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, saturate the room with pleasant natural aromas, make each bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages of wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to re-lay the wooden floors in the steam room.

Concrete structures are much more preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.

Concrete products withstand even the most difficult operating conditions. On average, such foundations are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. We immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete coatings. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, for example, a tile, is laid on top of them), time-consuming to install with your own hands, they require a serious investment of time and financial resources.

Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!

The floor for a bath made of concrete, in fact, is an ordinary screed. It is made from a solution in which there is sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother with mixing the required ingredients to obtain a concrete composition, but immediately purchase ready mix at the nearest hardware store. Factory sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a perforator with a nozzle, and then used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will perform the function of finishing floor covering, or a simple flooring from boards will be mounted on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases when it is planned to lay tiles on top of the concrete pavement, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite with gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It is even easier to buy a self-levelling compound designed specifically for such cases.

The concrete base for the bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of an elementary system for removing water. It consists of an intermediate tank (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the pit should be concreted and a tubular product with a cross section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is led into an autonomous septic tank at the site or into the gutter. We start another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is desirable to provide this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the steam room.

Next, prepare the platform for the screed. We remove the top layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, ram it, pour brick or gravel on top. We should get a layer of about 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we ram the whole cake and fill it with a sand-cement mixture (about 5-6 cm thick). Important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the reservoir pit.

When the solution hardens, lay on it mineral wool or polystyrene (you can pour a layer of expanded clay, perlite). These materials play a role effective insulation. Under the foam and cotton wool, we must put waterproofing (it is most reasonable to use roofing material). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount a metal mesh (wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.

Concrete can also be used as a floor finish

Now you can pour the main screed. We serve the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition is necessarily leveled (you need to work with an assistant). This operation is performed with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2-3 days, the screed will harden. It can be laid flooring from boards or tiles. We mount the trim with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If concrete is planned to be used as a finishing coating (it is possible to do so), we simply carefully level and grind its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.

Leaking wood floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor

You can make a floor in a wooden bath using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking. Advice. If the experience of doing construction works you have a small one, it is better to build leaking floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, the used water goes into the ground. Insulation of such structures is not carried out, the sewer system is not being built. Instead of the latter, a simple drainage pit is used. They dig it under the bath.

You can make a floor in a bath of this type according to the following algorithm:

1. We level a piece of land, fill it with a layer of gravel, which should be well compacted.
2. We prepare wooden logs (we cut them to the required dimensions, apply an antiseptic composition) and support pillars for them.
3. We mount the processed logs on the supports, keeping the distance between the individual elements at the level of 0.5 m.
4. Lay the boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2-3 mm between the wall of the bath, the floor and the boards to be mounted.

Leaking bases imply gaps between boards

It is not necessary to fix the flooring elements to the lags. The described coating is recommended to be regularly removed and taken out under the sun to dry. If necessary, at any time it is possible to replace rotten boards. The service life of the described floor structure is 4–6 years. Then you have to build a new one. Such leaking floors are best used in the country, where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.

There is another way to arrange simple board coverings. It is less difficult to implement. After preparing the plot of land, bars-beams with a section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm should be placed around the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic on them! We install logs on the beams, fix them, and on top we mount the flooring from the boards.

Leaking floors of both types can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to lay oak boards. They become very slippery when wet. It is better to opt for products made of pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made from planed edged boards 4–5 cm thick. Thinner products in high humidity conditions will not last long.

Non-leaking wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable

Now let's try to properly make a non-leaking base. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will be of better quality. Leak-proof wooden floors are suitable for year-round steam rooms. The design of such bases requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10-12 years.

We build a non-leaking floor in the bath according to the following step-by-step guide:

1. We make a hole-reservoir, lay pipes for drains by analogy with the arrangement of drainage for concrete pavements.
2. We prepare the site. We remove the layer of earth, fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. Each layer of material is rammed. If desired, pour a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
3. We cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best protector from moisture in this case will be roofing material.
4. We perform insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
5. We install logs with a step of 0.5 m on pre-mounted beams. For the manufacture of the latter, you need to use bars 10x20 cm. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.

Then we mount the intermediate base. We fix the draft floor from the bottom of the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing material). We lay another layer on top of the insulation waterproofing material. The last stage of work is the installation of the finishing floor. We install it with a slope, we lay the boards close to each other. The finish coating is attached to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws.

We take boards for non-leaking floors, tongue-and-groove, 3–5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Pay attention! The lower edge of the floor base made of wood must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the basement (its upper edge) of the bath. We hope that our instructions will help you build a truly reliable floor in your steam room.

How to make the floor in the bath with your own hands: a step by step guide

Floor in the bath different variants arranging a quality foundation Arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given special attention. How competently it will be thought out and implemented

How to make the right floor in the bath with your own hands: instructions

The floor in the bath differs in its structure only in the steam room and washing room. The rest of the baths are operated in the usual humidity regime. In the article, we will consider in detail the arrangement of floors in the steam room and talk about how to lay them with your own hands.

The choice of the design of the floor of the steam room and washing

The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the health benefits of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively short service life of wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total cost will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be diverted to the pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. In a constructive way, to solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underfloor. Then it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which a clay castle or concrete base is formed with a slope in one direction.

The second option is a non-leaking floor during wet rooms baths. Such a floor is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only at the end of its service life. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable coating can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly until the bath is in use. Fixed floors, due to susceptibility to decay at high humidity, change completely about once every 7-8 years.

A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, arrangement concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the parent soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements from deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood species are used. All wooden structures floors must be treated with antiseptics.

For flooring you will need:

wooden beam for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
floor board 35 mm thick;
cement M300, M400;
sand of medium fraction;
expanded clay for the heat-insulating layer;
ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right protective wood impregnation. It should be suitable for baths due to high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is impregnation sunflower oil for two approaches.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and a wooden covering of the bath floor.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroke. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Construction corner. 2. Staple. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. Circular saw machine

Leaking floor from individual boards with chamfers

To prepare the soil base for the floor structure, it is imperative to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement screed. 4. Gutter. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Flowing floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the place of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through the drain pipe to the sump.

The slope of the surface for water runoff is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The overall level of the floor in the steam room and washing room is 30 mm lower than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel cushion 10–15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and compact the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. The approximate consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is also possible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the strips, rails are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

Be sure to observe the slope towards the gutter or funnel to collect and drain water

A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on the layer of expanded clay concrete. The composition of the mortar (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. Cement is mixed with water to the state of liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick columns are installed from solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on cement-sand mortar. The distance between the posts is 0.8–1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the lags are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers along the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Do not use sand-lime bricks, hollow stones, silicate blocks in damp and wet rooms.

Such a floor is made removable in order to be able to dry the floorboard to increase its service life. Boards can move when walking on them, they are often caught with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared under them in the logs, or spacer strips are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor made of removable panels

The floor covering of the steam room and soap room can be made from removable wooden shields. The boards of the shield are laid with a gap on the transverse bars 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted sand and gravel mixture, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on a cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 10-15 mm. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable shields are installed on the tile so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

The sequence of works of a non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along the logs. First determine the location of the support columns. They are placed at a distance of 0.8–1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances in the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wider than the size of the post is prepared for each post.

Solid non-leaking floor over the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A solid, non-leaking floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. Brick column on a concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the columns is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam ( columnar foundation), or at the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the log should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. Wooden elements are necessarily isolated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material). Expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made on the compacted soil.

An uninsulated floor option is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards are supported on one side by a wall lag, on the other - by a lag-gutter. The tray is covered from above with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor involves logs with cranial bars to which the black floor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool board, polystyrene) is laid on it. Rolled waterproofing (roofing material) is laid on the heat-insulating layer.

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Logs and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer

There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The lag size in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull bar - 40x40 mm. For logs, only a solid beam must be used.

Grooved boards are laid along the lags. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of rallying boards is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all lags. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. For rallying the boards, staples or clamps are used. Nails for fastening are used 2–2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10–20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Drainage of water from the floor surface occurs due to the slope of the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain point and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be done by adjusting the height of the log.

How to make the right floor in the bath with your own hands: instructions

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands in case correct execution all necessary work. The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the base preparation, the choice of insulating materials and the finishing coating. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath

How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme operating conditions for the floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly reduce the life of the floor.

The choice of a specific method of arranging the foundation in a "damp" room depends on such factors:

method of heat and waterproofing;
type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
seasonal use of the bath;
type of soil under the building;
structural features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. AT frame building, which is used only in warm time year, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.

Types of wood floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood elements to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made from coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.

All types of wooden coverings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:

Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
- simple installation;
- low cost of floors;
- no need to install a drain system.
Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
- long period of operation;
- good thermal insulation of the room;
- the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.

Necessary tools

The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. From quality installation work, coupled with the device of the sewer system and the laying of floor materials, the microclimate in the room depends. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

The device of a concrete base is possible with the following tools:

concrete mixer;
lighthouses;
rule (for alignment);
building level;
container for solution;
shovel.

To make a wooden coating, you will need other tools:

a hammer;
jigsaw (angle grinder);
plane;
roulette;
nails.

To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider a step-by-step guide to laying wooden and concrete floors.

Standard floor construction

The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located above zero level by 8-9 cm. In this case, the temperature in the room will remain at the required level for a long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:

waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
bars under a wooden crate;
draft coating;
insulating materials (insulation, waterproofing);
logs for assembling the crate;
heat and water insulators;
lining;
air bag;
wood and concrete layer;
decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of underfloor heating begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:

In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, presented broken brick or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
Then the laid materials are well compacted.

Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors

To make a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of adding the necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.

First stage:

10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
The components are mixed;
Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
The mixture is well stirred;
Then add about 5 more liters of water;
Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Can be improved if needed specifications composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:

10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.

Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer

If the area of the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?

The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
Level the mixture using the rule;
So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.

As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:

bituminous mastic;
polyethylene film;
roll roofing material.

After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:

mineral wool;
polystyrene;
penoplex;
granulated expanded clay;
foam concrete.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, expanded clay is the optimal insulation for concrete surfaces. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Filling the finishing screed

Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:

Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.

Also, do wooden base it is possible in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which cannot be done when pouring the screed.

Laying wooden floors

How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

Construction of support posts. To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars secured with steel braces. When arranging floors in a bathhouse erected on a pile foundation, the lag is laid on a mortgage crown;
Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam plastic). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, ventilation holes are made in the foundation for better air circulation;
Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, on which draft boards are thrown. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. After that, the wooden crate is sheathed with a grooved board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.

It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.

After assembling the log cabin of the bath and installing doors and windows, you need to think about installing the flooring. How to make the floor in the bath in various ways, we will tell in this article. By following all the steps, you can complete the work without errors and with high quality.

Before installing the floor in the bath, you need to decide what it will be: wooden or screed. Several factors influence the choice:

The type of material from which the floor joists are made.
The material from which the bath is built.
What is the planned drainage system.
Purpose of the premises (steam room and washing room combined or separate, use dry steam or wet, etc.)
material side.

Wooden floor - features and purpose

The wooden floor in the baths is used in most cases. Such popularity is associated with the availability of material and the speed of installation (no need to take technical breaks in work). You can buy floorboards or logs already treated with an antiseptic and dried. And the laying process is simple, and even a beginner, after reading the step-by-step instructions, will be able to lay the floor. Of course, mistakes are made in any work, but if you watch the thematic video and read the article to the end, you can handle it. Flooring alone is difficult, so it is better to look for 1-2 helpers.

For a bath, there are several ways to lay floors, but the simplest:

"cold" flowing;
"warm" not leaking.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Cold floor - design features

Boards of "cold" coating are laid with a gap of 4-5 mm. It is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the baths, but flows into the underground. Since the floor of a similar design is cold all the time, it is recommended to use it only in the southern regions of the country or for a bath at a summer cottage.

"Warm" floor - design features

The main advantages of this design:

moisture does not accumulate near the foundation;
the floor is additionally insulated, which means it will warm up;
because of the special drain system, the floorboards will last longer.

Concrete screed in the bath-features and purpose

Screeding floors in baths is a more time-consuming process that requires some skill and theoretical knowledge. A concrete screed for the bath floor can be made in several ways: pouring directly onto the ground, screed on the subfloor. It is easier to do the first method yourself.

Screed on the ground - features

A concrete screed is performed on previously removed soil and a sand cushion (this is shown in the photo). After drying, the coating has an unsightly appearance and a finish is needed. Of course, you can simply paint the floor with paint, but since the bath will be constantly heated to high temperatures, chemical compositions in the use of the bath are undesirable. The easiest way is to lay ceramic tiles or natural stone. But both options are expensive and labor intensive.

Installation of flooring in baths and saunas

Installation of a "cold" leaking floor

Before laying, the logs must be treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Used engine oil is used as an economy. Antiseptics take any, but it is better to direct appointment "for baths."

Wood before laying is dried to a moisture content of less than 12-10% or purchased ready-made, kiln-dried.

Laying the base under the floor

at the installation sites, the top layer of soil is removed and a pillow of crushed stone and sand (10-15 cm) and reinforced mesh is poured;
columns of red brick are laid out or pieces of reinforced concrete slab are laid;
the structure is waterproofed with bituminous mastic.

If the foundation for the bath was columnar, then the level of the log should be parallel and equal in level to the embedded log. With tape - the upper part of the foundation.

Underground drain installation

With soil that is well absorbed by moisture, the top layer is removed around the entire perimeter of the bath and a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 250 mm is poured. It is used as a filter. Moisture will pass through the filter and be absorbed into the soil. This is the easiest way.
With poorly absorbent soil, a slope of 10 ° is made towards a specially prepared drain (a pit at least 30–40 cm deep, in which a PVC drain pipe with a diameter of 15 cm or more, covered with crushed stone, is laid). In order for the water to drain more evenly, the soil can be covered with clay and compacted.

Laying floor boards

Floor boards can be used even without edged ones, the main thing is to level and trim them. Laying starts from the wall, stepping back 2 cm. Laying is perpendicular to the lags.

Boards can be fastened to the joists with screws or nails at an angle of 45 °. To make the gaps between the boards the same, use pieces of plywood 3-5 mm thick.

Installation of a "warm" non-leaking floor

Installation of the drain system

At the bottom, stepping back 2 cm, a drain pipe is mounted, which must be laid at an angle. For this, a PVC pipe with a cross section of at least 15 cm is suitable.

Laying floor boards

The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, attached to the logs with a construction stapler.

It is important to leave a ventilated gap of at least 10-15 mm between the main coating and the insulation, where an additional exhaust pipe is led out.

As floorboards for a bath, it is better to use products that are resistant to water, such as larch, aspen. Otherwise, the floor will quickly rot, which will never happen with a concrete screed.

Installation of a concrete screed - features of installation in baths

Filling the screed on the floor of the bath

The installation of the screed is carried out in the following steps:

The first layer is poured with concrete to a height of 5 - 6 cm, it is allowed to dry (but not completely dry);
A layer of thermal insulation PSB-S-35 is spread out (you can take any thickness, standard 5 and 10 cm);
To give rigidity, a reinforced mesh is laid;
The final layer of concrete is poured in 6 - 9 cm. To give hardness, it is necessary to pour the final layer, at an angle of 10 -15 °, towards the drain, where the pipe is mounted.

From above, a concrete screed is decorated with tiles, there are many of them in construction centers, the price starts from 210 rubles / m2. You can think of your own design and choose a cover for it. All depending on the size of the wallet and imagination.

All the options under consideration can be done by hand, and our experts are always happy to suggest how to avoid mistakes.