Design

How to seal a doorway with drywall - detailed instructions. How to seal a doorway on your own How to seal a doorway

By different reasons, but the majority of owners have to deal with the redevelopment of the premises. As a rule, this is accompanied by the arrangement of new passages in the interior partitions or internal walls. There are several ways to close an empty doorway. One of the simplest and most easily implemented techniques is with the help of drywall.

Stages of work

Opening preparation

If we are talking about its termination, it is understood that the geometry and integrity of the wall are completely restored. Options decorative finishes its ends, covering some part with curtains - this is a different topic related to interior decor. GKL are characterized by low mechanical strength, especially bending, and therefore, before sealing the doorway with drywall, a number of measures must be taken:

platbands, canvas and box are dismantled;
all elements of jamb fixation (pins, staples, nails) are removed;
the opening is cleaned to the base from plaster, wallpaper, insulation, that is, everything that was used when sealing the door block;

diagnostics of the working area. Since the placement of drywall sheets in the wall involves the arrangement of a supporting frame, the need to strengthen the opening is determined, giving it the correct geometry. Its violation is possible if the base material is badly worn out or the master carelessly dismantled the block. According to the results of the inspection, appropriate actions are taken.

Advice. The alignment of the opening is of paramount importance, since when embedding the plasterboards are placed flush with the cut of the wall. Therefore, if any of its sides has a bevel, the drywall will have to be cut. And this work is time-consuming and complicated, especially at small cutting angles. Therefore, at the preparation stage, it is necessary to give the doorway the correct shape in the form of the letter "P".

Frame installation

For him, it is desirable to choose a metal profile, although it costs more than lumber. What is its advantage over wooden blocks?

Invariance of geometry along the length of the sample. Therefore, the frame will turn out perfectly flat.
Additional processing and impregnation, unlike wood, is not needed.
Metal profiles are not subject to deformation and shrinkage.

The order of arrangement of the frame:

Fastening guide profiles around the perimeter. They define the mounting plane. How to fix them on the wall (dowels, anchors) depends on its material. The nuance is that in the process of marking it is necessary to make a small indent from its cut, equal to the thickness of the GCR. After sealing the opening in the wall with them, there should be no protrusions or recesses in this area. Otherwise, the process of further decorating this part of the room will be significantly complicated.

Vertical slats (rack-mount profiles) in wide openings increase the strength of the sheathing, since the main load falls on these elements. Their placement also has a feature; when drawing up the scheme, the dimensions of the drywall are taken into account. Its fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, which “fasten” the gypsum board to the profiles. Reiki are arranged so that their longitudinal axis coincides with the junction of adjacent sheets.

Since the wall (partition) has a certain thickness, two frames are installed in the opening, on each side of it. The installation process is quite simple; the main thing is to constantly monitor the position of the profiles (vertical, horizontal). The slightest inaccuracy will lead to a skew of the crate with all the consequences.

The lower fasteners are installed at a level of 70 - 80 mm from the floor. The rest - with an equal interval of 35 ± 5 along the perimeter.
To seal the opening with drywall, sheets with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm are sufficient.
If the adjacent room is cold, it is advisable to lay insulating material in the cavity between the supporting frames. It is possible to additionally equip soundproofing.

Even at the planning stage, it is worth considering how the wall will be designed at the site of the former opening. If it is necessary to fix something on it (shelves, a massive picture or otherwise), it is advisable to increase the number of vertical racks. They are arranged with the expectation to become supports for the hinged elements of the interior.

Drywall fixing

Cut the sheets into fragments according to the wiring diagram.
Marking the installation points of self-tapping screws, drilling. The chamfer is made mandatory so that the hardware heads are recessed into the GKL. Since the material breaks easily, the margin from the edge of the sheet is about 15 mm, at least.

It remains to sew up the doorway with drywall. First, on the one hand, after which the appropriate layers of heat and sound insulation are arranged, communications are laid (for example, electrical / wiring for wall lamp, sockets or otherwise). At the end of this work, sheets are attached to the second supporting frame; that is, the opening is closed tightly.

The final stage

Sealing joints GKL (serpyanka and putty).
Treatment of sheets with a primer.
Secondary application of putty in order to level the base.
Surface grinding.

If the preparatory measures are correctly carried out, the diagram of the supporting frame and the fixing of drywall is correctly drawn up, then sealing the opening with it will not cause difficulties. Further design of the wall is at your own discretion. There are more than enough options - painting, wallpapering, paneling; there is a choice.

During repairs, it often becomes necessary to move the front door of one of the premises to a new location. How to close up a doorway with drywall so that after redevelopment it does not stand out against the background of the wall, you need to know for sure home master starting this work.

It must be remembered that any change in the layout is possible only with the permission of the relevant inspecting authorities in the presence of an agreed project. At the same time, the weakening bearing walls buildings are strictly prohibited. With light internal partitions, everything is much simpler. If you have resolved organizational issues, you can begin work.

The first step is to clean the doorway from the platbands, remove the door from the hinges and remove all dirt and plaster.

It is quite possible for one person to reliably and beautifully sew up a doorway with drywall for several hours. But it is more convenient to work together. What will be required for this?

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you should prepare everything you need:

Screwdriver.
Drill-perforator with a set of drills.
Bulgarian or scissors for metal.
Construction knife.
Level.
Hacksaw.
Montage.
Hard bristled brush.
Putty knife.
Guide (PN) and rack (PS) profiles in the required quantity.
Two sheets of drywall.
Mineral wool.
Mounting foam.
Self-tapping screws and dowels.
Putty.
Primer deep penetration.

Preparatory work

First of all, the doorway is freed from everything that may interfere with installation. The platbands are torn off and removed from the hinges of the door leaf. wooden beam the door frame is sawn with a hacksaw and dismantled with a crowbar. The entire perimeter of the opening is cleaned with a spatula and a brush from old peeling plaster and dust.

At this stage, you need to make sure that the brickwork or concrete framing the opening is strong. If large defects are found in them, restoration is performed.

Installation of a metal frame

Gypsum board does not have high rigidity. Therefore, it is possible to close the doorway with drywall only on a frame specially made for this. It is assembled from a metal profile and attached to a reliable base.

Since the drywall sheet does not have the necessary rigidity, it must be installed on a pre-prepared metal frame.

The mounting plane is set by guide profiles. They are attached with anchors or dowels directly to building structures, so they are located along the perimeter of the frame being created. The quality of the entire installation depends on the accuracy of their installation.

The rack-mounted carrier profile forms an internal lattice. He takes the brunt of the burden. The place of its installation is selected in such a way that the joints of drywall sheets, if any, fall on its central axis.

When closing a through hole in the wall on both sides, the installation of two structures is required, which do not need to be connected to each other.

For this you need:

Cut out four pieces of guide profile equal to the height of the sides of the doorway. They are fixed with anchors or dowels strictly vertically, retreating inward from the edge of the wall to the thickness of the purchased drywall sheet. Usually in such cases, GKL 12 mm is used. To do this, press each piece of the PN one by one against the wall and drill a hole 10 cm from its upper edge with a puncher. A dowel is inserted into it. Using a building level or plumb line, the verticality of the profile is checked and a second dowel is installed 10 cm from the floor. The remaining dowels are attached along the entire length of the PN in increments of 30 - 40 cm.
Pieces are cut from the rack profile along the width of the doorway so that they connect opposite vertical parts to form a single flat frame. They are fixed at the joints with self-tapping screws. The extreme horizontal elements of the frame should be pressed close to the upper and lower ends of the opening, and the internal ones are located between them in increments of 40 - 50 cm from each other.
If necessary, to increase the rigidity of the structure, it is possible to make additional vertical racks from the rack profile with the formation of a lattice structure.

Installation of drywall sheets

Before closing the opening in the wall with drywall, it is measured, in accordance with which the GKL sheets are cut. The material is notched sharp knife and break at the place of the incision.

Drywall is attached to the profile using self-tapping screws. They are twisted in increments of 10 - 15 cm, retreating from the edge of the sheet by 15 - 20 mm. The head of the fastener should be recessed into the material to facilitate further surface finishing.

First you need to sew up the opening in the wall with drywall on one side. After that everything inner space the opening is filled with sound and heat insulating material. Experts recommend using mineral wool mats for this. The gaps between it, the frame and the wall can be sealed with mounting foam. She also overlaps the voids between the end of the drywall and outer wall. Excess foam after it dries is cut off with a knife.

Seam closure and finishing

All joints and irregularities on the front side of the drywall are aligned with the approach to the walls using putty. Prior to its application, the surfaces are treated with a deep penetration primer, which promotes good adhesion of the leveling mortar. Putty is usually put in two layers with intermediate priming. In this case, all caps of self-tapping screws must be completely closed.

It is not recommended to use dyes as a finishing touch to the room in which the opening was sewn up. Over time, cracks may appear in this place. You can hide this defect by using wallpaper or wall tiles.

Reducing the doorway

If it is required not to completely close the doorway, but only to reduce its width, a three-dimensional frame is made and fixed from the profile, corresponding in size to the building section of the wall. In plan, it will look like the letter "P". To do this, parallel lines are drawn on the floor inside the opening, which are a continuation of the walls. Perpendicular to them, the border of the end face of the future wall is drawn.

Stepping back from it and the first two lines 12 mm inward, we find the U-shaped boundary of the installation metal frame on the floor. A guide profile is attached to the floor along it. Strictly vertically above it, the same design is created on the ceiling. Two more guide profiles are installed vertically from floor to ceiling along the edges of the old opening wall.

The corners of the letters "P" of the floor and ceiling are connected uprights from the carrier profile. To increase the rigidity of the structure, they are connected to guide profiles nailed to the wall with several horizontal lintels in increments of no more than 50 cm. After that, part of the doorway can be sewn up with plasterboard with filling the cavity with soundproofing material.

Sometimes it is required to seal the opening above the door with drywall. In this case, two frames are installed there, consisting of a guide profile, anchored to the walls and ceiling. The lower edge of each frame forms a horizontal bearing profile, connected by its edges to the vertical guide profiles. Both frames are also sheathed with plasterboard, and the interior space is filled with stone wool.

There are a lot of options for how to seal a doorway. Here we propose to consider two methods:

Close the doorway with the material from which the partition is made.
Seal the doorway with drywall.

Dismantling old doors

First of all, they are taken for the dismantling of the old door leaf and boxes.

Tools you will need for this stage works:

nail puller;
a hammer;

The door is removed from the hinges, the platbands are torn off with a nail puller. After that, they are sawn into pieces and the box is removed from the opening with a crowbar. When installing door jambs together with the floor, they make a cut at the floor level on them and remove them.

Closing a doorway with bricks

It is a commonly used method and the most acceptable. This is due to the fact that the partition itself is often made of brick. Therefore, the use of this type of building material as a space filler is more natural.

Closing the gap in the wall with a brick is carried out by pre-preparing the tool and mortar for brickwork.

Tools required for masonry:

perforator;
plaster rule;
Master OK.

The need to use the building level in this situation will not arise, since brickwork lead in accordance with the partition, and not in a vertical direction. To give evenness to the masonry, the following technique is used: a rail is applied in different directions on the wall surface.

The height of the seams of the brickwork should not coincide with each other in different places. Masonry is done in a "random" way.

Trimmings of reinforcement are drilled into the wall in order to enhance the strength of fresh masonry. Reinforcement bars are laid through a gap of 3 or 4 rows.

How to mask a doorway with drywall?

This option is suitable for those who do not want to mess with bricks and subsequently plaster a section of the wall on both sides. This solution has its pros and cons.

The bad thing is that a structure of this kind cannot be called durable, since, under load, drywall can be deformed.

Accordingly, it is unacceptable to hang any aggravating objects on the sealed section of the wall. Low sound insulation is another undesirable moment of this method. However, if you block the plasterboard "disguise" with a large piece of furniture, then the option may well be considered for execution. Then they are guided by the following advantages: ease of handling building material and economy.

For work you will need:

drywall sheets;
screwdriver;
hacksaw;
self-tapping screws;
a hammer;
drill;
putty knife;
putty;
nail puller;
soundproofing material.

Sheathing is performed on one side or on both sides. For double-sided laying of GKL sheets, an insert made of soundproofing material is inserted between them. It will not take much effort to seal the vacated gap in the wall.

Eliminate the opening start with the assembly of the frame under the skin. For this purpose, either a wooden or galvanized metal profile is used. For the installation of guides and transverse profiles, the necessary measurements are made in the wall. For wall cladding GKL on both sides, two frames are made for each of the walls. Measure the distance from the border of the wall to which the profile will be attached. The profile must fit in the gap between the walls, so make sure that its edges are located inside the opening. Mark the straight line along which it will be fixed. Holes for dowels are drilled inside the opening. Fix the frame with a screwdriver. Similar manipulations are repeated on the other side of the room. It turns out a paired frame inside the lumen. Two metal crossbars are mounted in order to strengthen the frame structure and give it rigidity.

After that, drywall is prepared. Measure and cut a sheet of the required dimension. It would be better if the sheet is divided into several components, it will be much more convenient to fix them separately. As sound insulation, mineral wool is laid between the guides.

Using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, close the doorway with sheets prepared in advance. Self-tapping screws are immersed in drywall for 1-2 millimeters. At the final stage of the work, the joints are glued with a serpentine tape, puttied, and a primer layer is applied. Particular attention is paid to the places where the caps of the self-tapping screws are located: they need to be puttied carefully. After the paint layers have dried, they proceed to wallpapering.

Reducing the size of the door opening

Sometimes, instead of completely getting rid of the doorway, there is a need to narrow the entrance to the room. What are the rules for narrowing the passage? The same as those described above.

The narrowing of the passage is carried out using a similar technology: first, a graphic image is drawn on paper, which allows you to more accurately determine the flow rate required material. The work is carried out in a similar way: they calculate the dimensions, drill holes in the surface of the wall for dowels, fix the supports under the future partition. Narrowing the passage will allow you to install a narrower door structure.

As soon as you have installed the door, first of all, a sad picture will appear before your eyes - the resulting gap between the new door box and door opening. But do not give up that your opening does not look very pretty. Closing an ugly, repulsed area does not take you much effort and money.

Entrance cladding

And you can see how work is being done to improve the opening on the Internet on video. Regardless of the fact that you do not have a special work skill, cladding with my own hands- this is possible for every person, due to the fact that the work is not very voluminous and it will require you not so much experience as accuracy and a special creative approach.

With the help of door openings, the perception of the entire living space occurs, and the excellent facing of slopes, sealing gaps adds to your new door finished design.

Ways to perform slopes

Outer side doors finished by master installers. And on inside- everything is bad. Before your eyes is a bare wall, bricks and a lot of opportunities for decorating slopes.

The sloping part gives the doors a pleasant look, hides all the fasteners and makes the entire structure stand.

Due to this, after the box is delivered, it is necessary to choose a facing method, and there are few of them:

Facing with platbands and additional board;
Slope plastering;
Material bonding.

Crushing is carried out according to any method of development of the sloping area, and finishing material pick up is not a problem. Highly a good option- this is to close the slopes with concrete with further painting.

Slope cladding with the process of installing trim material on a specialized frame is beneficial when a decent volume of mortar is required for empty spaces in the opening. Judging by the photo, in this way the slope will be good, even.

Cladding specifics for a wide variety of walls

It will not be difficult to seal openings in panel houses. Walls made of panels are stronger than brickwork and absolutely do not crumble, thanks to which the box is tightly mounted in such an opening. Foam will be needed to seal the opening a little.

Brickwork is thicker than a concrete wall, there will be where to turn.

The material for slopes can be anything: drywall, plastic and other sheet-type materials are suitable.

If desired, to make the cladding look gentle, use as a finishing material plastic panels they are the most durable. Yes and choose in color door boxes are no problem.

Preparatory work

Whatever method you choose, preparatory work will be limited to pasting with film and masking tape the entire structure of the box to protect it from accidental damage. Facing the entrance opening provides for preparatory work.

Be sure to remove all irregularities, roughness, which can interfere with subsequent work.
It is necessary to clean the surface, sweep it from dust and prime it.
If you have calculated the laying in the cable opening, then you can just carry it out, but not in case of mounting the frame.

Becoming a slope material for finishing work on mortar

All facing materials are fixed to a cement mortar or a special glue.
To remove the level, screws are screwed in so that they are all in the same level with hats. Since the skin will rest on these caps, the thickness of the facing fabric is taken into account.
The voids of the slope are filled with mortar, and good glue. For good fasteners, glue is applied to two surfaces: on the cladding and the slope.
After that, the finishing material is applied and pressed down a little. All work is level checked.
The final stage is the fastening of the platbands.

Installation cladding on frame base

Before starting work, so that the surface does not crumble, prime it. Wooden slats or a multifunctional profile are suitable for mounting the frame base. Everything must be done so that the frame fits snugly against the surface of the wall, if necessary, then we equalize the wall.
Cladding materials will be attached to the frame using plastic dowels and impact screws. The process of installing the frame base begins with the installation of 2 strips with fastening jumpers on them. The process of installing the skin for any material is different.
Laminate lays down in a wide variety of directions, but it does not depend on the direction, all parts snap into place. For the stability of the structure, the panels are additionally fixed.
The plastic lays down, as well as the laminate coating, only it is necessary to attach it additionally, due to the fact that the plastic is not so durable.

Medium density fibreboard panels are very beautiful, they can be chosen to match the panel doors, and they will be fastened with small nails without hats, which are invisible on the surface of the panels. Corners, fastenings must be closed with corners and trims made of medium-density fibreboard.

Drywall as a finishing material is attached quite easily to the screws around the perimeter. If there is a distance between the wall surface and the material for finishing works, then it is filled with a solution, the joints are all sealed with a specialized tape, the surface is puttied, glued with wallpaper or painted.

Plastering

Before spackling door opening, it is necessary to install beacons on the prepared soil surface, thanks to which it will be very convenient for us to straighten the surface. Experts advise using a gypsum solution for these purposes, it will set very quickly, you won’t have to wait.
Beacons must be adjusted in the direction of one plane. After we proceed to filling the sloping space with a solution of sand and cement. The solution is applied to the slope and equal to the beacons. If the solution is dry, you need to proceed with the starting and finishing.
The final putty mortar after drying with the help of an abrasive mesh is leveled, after the final setting it is painted.

Whatever method you choose for facing slopes, the main thing is that they appearance became an ornament for your doors.

After installing a new front door, it remains to update them with brand new slopes. They can be included in interior design different ways, drywall, laminate, MDF, PVC sandwich panels, as well as non-standard materials (for example, imitation natural stone). In order not to spend money on the services of a specialist, you can do the installation of slopes yourself, following the instructions.

Slope plastering

Slopes are plastered most often together with the entire apartment when the finishing is not completed.

Required tools:

Putty knife.
Level.
Master OK.
Rule.
The grid is painting.
Painter's tape.
Painting corners.
Construction mixer.

Materials:

Plaster (dry mix).
Finishing putty.
The primer is liquid.
Sandpaper.
Water based paint.

Do-it-yourself plastering sequence:

Clean the surface.

Prime.
Install and fix beacons with a level.
Close the junction of the wall and the slope according to the level with a paint corner.
paste over masking tape front door and a box

Attach the mesh.
Make a solution.
Seal potholes.
Apply the solution to the entire surface, stretch along the beacons, then wait for drying and repair the cracks.
Prime.
Level with finishing putty.
Wait for it to dry and sand it down with fine sandpaper.
Paint with water emulsion.

Finishing completed.

If we are talking about a private house, it is advisable to treat the cleaned opening with an antifungal primer before work and add a little to the solution itself.

Drywall slopes

Drywall is a popular material for finishing the slopes of the front door with your own hands. It is inexpensive, reliable and easy to install.

Necessary materials:

Drywall.
Dowel.
Self-tapping screws.
Profile guides.
Glue.

Required tools:

Drill.
Roulette.
Simple pencil.
Rag.
Level.
Putty knife.
Construction mixer.
A hammer.

The procedure for doing the installation of slopes with your own hands using drywall:

Clean the opening from dust, remnants of mounting foam.
Drill connectors for dowels at a distance of 20 cm along the perimeter - it is necessary to improve the adhesion of the material to the surface.
Using a tape measure, measure the width and height of the door opening and cut out the guides: two side and one top.
Stepping back from the door hatch about 1.5 cm, attach a guide to the screws so that its narrow edge is in the inner part of the slope.
Measure the size of the strips for slopes and cut from drywall. When cutting, try to ensure that the edge of the drywall does not crumble and is even.
Dilute the glue to a state of homogeneous, thick sour cream.
On the cut parts of the drywall, apply a sticky mass in heaps.
Lubricate the dowels with glue.
The drywall sheet is inserted into the guide and pressed.

Check the level of the slope, then fix it for 6 hours.
Wipe off protruding adhesive with a rag.
Periodically tap the surface with a hammer through the trim.

The next day after installation, the slopes can be further processed: putty, paint.

Laminate slopes

Laminate - flooring, often used for slopes of the front door, it does not need to be further processed, it resists mechanical stress. Do-it-yourself decoration has a lot of nuances.

There are two ways to install laminate slopes:

Frame installation. With this technology, you can insulate the opening: fill mineral wool or mounting foam. The design flaw is that the slats are placed only in a horizontal position.
Glue installation. For her it is necessary Smooth surface opening, or it must match the dimensions of the laminate. The laminate is glued onto the foam (at low pressure).

The first method is preferable for apartments, the second is universal.

Slopes from MDF panels

Most common finish: Affordable, good looking, easy to install.

Necessary materials:

MDF panels.
Wooden bars, width 3 cm.
Dowel.
Self-tapping screws.
Liquid nails.
Platbands.
Decorative corner.
Guide bars.

Tools:

Perforator.
Drill.
Scissors, knife.

Installation of MDF door slopes - do-it-yourself installation algorithm:

Clear the opening.
Drill holes around the perimeter for dowels.
After, attach the rails, guides.

Measure the dimensions and make templates for the details for the slopes.
Cut out details.
Install the top part on the screws. Check that there are no gaps.
Install in the guide side parts: inside on nails, outside on self-tapping screws.
Paste the outer corners with a flexible decorative corner to hide the screws, bumps.
Inside, paste over the corners with a decorative rail and the finish is ready.

After finishing work, you need to install platbands. If there is still wallpapering to be done, they are installed after the repair is completed.

Advantages: finishes look presentable, easy installation.

Slopes from sandwich panels

PVC sandwich panel is two thin sheets of plastic with a layer of insulation (sheet thickness 1 cm).

Materials, tools for installing slopes of PVC sandwich panels on the front door:

PVC sandwich panel.
Profile (starter, cover).
Liquid plastic.
Roulette.
Self-tapping screws.
Screwdriver.
Drill.
Screwdriver.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels, or how to do it yourself:

Clean the opening from dust and foam residue.
Take measurements of the parts of the sandwich panels (length, width): one top, two side. For convenience, you can cut out a cardboard template so that there are no gaps between the parts of the PVC sandwich panels after installation.
Cut the starting profile, attach to self-tapping screws (indentation 10 cm) along the edge. You can not use the profile: make an opening in the foam 1 cm deep, insert the edge of the sandwich panels there.
Install the top PVC panel.
After, cut the starting profile to the width of the slope, install under the ceiling and at the base of the floor. This may be omitted if there is liquid plastic- gaps can be patched up with them. But do not use sealant - it darkens.
Installation of strips of sandwich panels.
Close the sections of the sandwich panels with a “cover” profile. Cut and install. An overlap is formed in the corners of the structure.
In the place of overlap, cut the profile at an angle of 45 degrees.

Optional space between sandwich PVC panel, the wall opening is filled with mounting foam. This is done after installing the sandwich panels.

More about installing slopes with your own hands after installing the front door, watch the video

Non-standard solutions

In addition to the above standard methods using popular materials, you can use more original variants that will emphasize the interior, decorate the front door and surprise your friends:

Artificial stone - non-standard slope finish. The main advantage is resistance to mechanical stress (if this is not a plaster model, it is fragile). Not a cheap option, requires the participation of a specialist.

Tile. A type such as clinker (imitation of brick or stone) is suitable.
Plastic panels are an affordable but unreliable finish.
Decorative plaster - in terms of aesthetics, endurance, it has no equal. But it will be necessary to work hard to find a good specialist in this field, because this work requires creativity and professionalism.

Materials can be combined if their properties are similar (sandwich panel details + stone, laminate + tiles and others).