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How to insulate floors in a private house. Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house on the old floor

In any residential area, floor insulation reduces heat loss by 15-27%. And in order to achieve the maximum result, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of material and observe the technology of work. In this article, we will describe in detail both aspects and show how to properly insulate the floors with our own hands.

For convenience of consideration, we divide all heat insulators into two fractions:

Mineral;
Polymer.

The common quality of all heat insulators is the presence of air in the body of the material itself. It is air that is the best heat insulator (after vacuum). But the structure of the material, its physico-chemical properties and biological activity are of decisive importance for the properties of the insulation as a whole.

Mineral heaters

This group includes:

Mineral wool;
foam concrete;
Expanded clay;
Foam glass.

Mineral wool. Basalt, granite and glass wool are all materials with almost the same production process. The raw material melt is sprayed onto the cooled surface. The fine filaments formed are collected and packaged.

A similar cotton wool production process leads to the same type of pluses and minuses. All mineral wools have an extremely low hygroscopicity, they cannot withstand any serious compressive load, they are able to form air suspensions of particles. That's why, to insulate the floor with wool, you will have to lay it between the logs in the floor, which is not always applicable for an apartment. In general, in terms of price / quality ratio - an excellent option.

Expanded clay. Bulk material obtained by firing clay. Relatively high water absorption, low thermal conductivity. Environmentally friendly.

foam concrete. Depending on the production technology, it can be:

Structural;
Thermal insulation (monolithic).

The difference is in compressive strength and physical characteristics. Accordingly, heat-insulating foam concrete has exceptionally good performance characteristics, but is somewhat inferior to other heaters in terms of thermal insulation properties.

Foam glass. The ideal material for floor insulation with unique performance characteristics and the highest price among all heaters.

Material\ characteristic	Foam glass	Expanded clay	Mineral wool
Water absorption	Almost zero	high	Very high
Thermal conductivity	Very low	Low	Low
Mechanical strength	high	high	Missing
Biological stability	Absolute	high	Medium
Vapor permeability	Very low	high	high

In this table, numeric values are deliberately not indicated, because different brands of the same material, it varies greatly. For example, in foam concrete with a density 200 kg/m3, thermal conductivity 0.048 W/(m * K), and at a density of 1200 kg / m 3, the thermal conductivity increases by almost an order of magnitude, up to 0.4 W / (m * K). Expanded clay has the same run, only changes depend on the fraction and feedstock. But the general conclusions are as follows:

All mineral wools are very hygroscopic. When wet, they lose their insulating ability. This material is loved by rodents (basalt fiber), but the fungus does not start on it. Not used for floor insulation.
When wet, expanded clay increases thermal conductivity ≈20 times. When used as a heater, high-quality waterproofing is required.

foam concrete very good material for floor insulation, but its drawback is in the intricacies of its manufacture. In principle, it can be done right on the spot, but not following the technology leads to a sharp deterioration in physical performance.

Foam glass generally leads in performance characteristics in the market of heaters. It is avoided by rodents (unlike foams) and fungus, it is almost vapor permeable and does not absorb moisture. Chemically inert. Sufficiently durable and well processed with carpentry tools. But it has an exceptionally high price, 1 m 2 of foam glass 3 cm thick will cost ≈900 r.

Polymer heaters

This group includes foamed polymers. But in order not to consider the whole range of such materials, we will focus on those that are suitable for floor insulation and are widely available. For example, "Penoizol" is extremely rarely sold in sheets, and the hard "Vinipor" is mainly produced and used in China.

Styrofoam. For floor insulation most the best way extruded polystyrene foam. It is produced under the brand name "TechnoNIKOL", "", "Technoplex", etc. This is a rather rigid material with low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability. Rodents pay attention to him last. But it has two serious disadvantages:

combustible;
Decomposes on contact with chemical solvents.

And if they fight against flammability, using carbon dioxide for foaming, then even contact with foam paints should be avoided.

Cross-linked polyethylene foam. Please note that only cross-linked polyethylene foam can be used for floor insulation. In this material, after physical or chemical treatment, additional bonds between oligomers appear. They give polyethylene foam increased strength and resistance to pressure loads. Plus - this polymer is not affected by household solvents. Produced under the brands "Penolon", "Izolon", etc.

Additionally, we can say that mold does not start on polymer foams, although rodents easily destroy them.

If you want to save money in the first place - use ordinary foam. However, it is not so durable and capricious to the conditions of the floor device.

How to insulate the floor in the apartment

If there is a warm floor under your apartment, then all the work comes down to laying a substrate of cross-linked polyethylene foam under top coat. "Penolon" 8 mm thick, replaces 25 cm brickwork in terms of thermal insulation. Immediately, from above, on such a layer, you can lay linoleum or carpet, lay laminate or parquet.

And for the first floor, the process of floor insulation becomes more complicated. First, remove the floor covering. Concrete floors in the apartment are treated with a primer. A layer of cross-linked polyethylene foam 3 mm thick is laid on top. Then the logs are laid, in increments of 0.6 m.

IMPORTANT: 60 cm should be between the sides of the log, and not between the centers of the timber.

As a log in the apartment, a bar 50X50 is used. Styrofoam (or mineral wool, depending on the specific conditions) is laid between the lags. In this case, extruded polystyrene foam is not required, because no load will be applied to it, and at a price it will cost three times cheaper. Polyethylene foam is necessary to avoid the formation of cold bridges, because wood conducts heat 7 times better than polystyrene foam.

This design should be closed in accordance with the floor covering. If it is supposed to use a floorboard, then it is simply sewn on top. Otherwise, it is necessary to lay plywood on the logs in order to form a subfloor. At the same time, instead of one layer of plywood 12 mm thick, it is better to use 6 mm plywood, but lay it in two layers, with a run.

The base prepared in this way is suitable for laying any floor covering. And similar design Suitable for both concrete and wood bases. Of course, on the subfloor, you will need to lay a substrate of 2 mm thick cross-linked polyethylene foam. But it will already play the role of a shock-absorbing and leveling layer, and not a heater.

If it is planned to lay in the apartment tile, then instead of plywood 6 mm, sheets with a thickness of 14-16 mm are used. The total thickness of the plywood must be at least 30 mm. Then the top layer is primed and tiles are laid on it. It should be glued with special adhesives, for example, Moment wagon or Bustilat-M.

In this case, the floor was insulated and sewn on top with OSB sheets.

Floor insulation in a private house

Insulation of the floor in the house (on the ground floor) is usually carried out directly on the ground. There are no restrictions for its device, except perhaps only a house on stilts. But its organization must be approached scrupulously.

Ground floor pie can be roughly divided into two parts. The first part includes at least four layers:

Sand;
crushed stone;
Polyethylene;
Skinny concrete.

Sand is poured in a layer of 10-20 cm and is well rammed. Do the same with gravel. At the same time, a layer less than 10 cm loses its functionality, and if you pour more than 20 cm, then tamp it down with high quality hand tool won't work anymore. This has been proven empirically. And the functions of these two layers are to cut off the capillary rise ground water. In this case, crushed stone must be on top. If it is covered with sand, then the latter will gradually seep through the rubble. A double layer of thick polyethylene film is laid on top. It is needed so that the concrete layer does not seep into the rubble. The film is overlapped, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

The layer of rough screed should be 8-12 cm. Expanded clay can be used instead of crushed stone. This will increase the heat-insulating properties of the floor cake. The proportions of lean concrete are as follows: cement 1 hour: river sand 3 hours: expanded clay 4 hours. Dispersed reinforcement with steel fiber will have an extremely positive effect.

After two days, the moistened surface of the rough screed is sprinkled with a thin layer of cement, and then rubbed with grouts. The ironing of this layer significantly increases the strength. They wait another week for concrete to gain primary strength. And only after that you can proceed to the second part.

It also consists of four layers:

Waterproofing;
insulation;
Finishing screed;
Flooring.

For waterproofing, ordinary roofing material is used, laying it in two layers. Due to the fact that the rough screed has not yet matured, it is preferable to use cold laying. For this, bituminous mastic is used.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to fix the roofing material on the walls with a spade up 10 cm.

Thermal insulation is carried out with sheet extruded polystyrene foam. Minimum thickness 50 mm. The joints between the plates are glued with adhesive tape. It seems more preferable to use a 30 mm thick insulation, with laying in two layers with an offset.

The minimum thickness of the finishing screed is 5 cm. High-quality river sand for 3 hours and cement for 1 hour are used to prepare the solution. good feedback obtained from the use of dispersed steel fiber reinforcement ( 0.7% by volume). In this case, you can do without using reinforcing mesh. Otherwise, it is necessary to lay a mesh with a cell of 100 mm and a wire thickness of 3 mm. The mesh is laid in such a way that it is at a height of 2-2.5 cm from the insulation. Before pouring the screed, a damper tape is glued along the walls. The maturation time of the 1 cm screed is 1 week. As a result, you will get a warm, reliable and durable concrete floor.

It is worth approaching the process of floor insulation with maximum attention, because. A well-organized “floor pie” will help save serious money on heating in the future.

Comfortable living in the house largely depends on temperature regime in him. That is why homeowners are increasingly thinking about how to insulate the floor.
If thermal insulation was not thought out during the construction phase, you will have to insulate the finished floor covering, which will entail additional costs. But be that as it may, this procedure is mandatory. Agree, cold floors bring a lot of discomfort, and can also cause colds. Not to get lost in abundance various materials, you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics and specific features.

Varieties of heaters

First you need to figure out how you can insulate the floor in a wooden house, because wood is a natural material that requires special care and enhanced thermal and waterproofing. Let's look at the most common options for heaters, their advantages and disadvantages. After all, only by carefully studying this issue, you can make the right choice.

Mineral wool

This is the first thing that can qualitatively insulate the floor. It is used quite often, since it has good heat and sound insulation properties, is easy to install, and has a low cost. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly, so you don’t have to worry about the fact that someone from the household will have an allergy. Supermarkets offer a wide range of cotton wool: it is sold in rolls and special mats. Service life largely depends on the correct installation and operating conditions. With proper care, such a heater will serve you for a long 30 years. Note that cotton wool allows steam to pass through, therefore, in order to prevent Negative consequences, the base should be equipped with a waterproofing coating. Mineral wool can also be damaged by rodents, so when laying, take all necessary measures to protect it from them.

Expanded clay

Many people think about whether it is possible to insulate the floor with expanded clay. The answer is yes. Moreover, it has a lot of advantages:

retains thermal insulation properties even after prolonged exposure to moisture;
has a small weight, due to which the load on the floor slabs is reduced;
has excellent thermal conductivity;
strong, has long term operation;
easy to install;
environmentally friendly;
resistant to temperature fluctuations.

All of the above points explain its popularity among professional builders. But it should be noted that for effective insulation floors, you need to use a fairly dense layer of material, so it is laid with a layer of 10-50 cm. Also, do not forget about waterproofing, without which the material will not last long.

Sawdust

You may be surprised, but the floor can be insulated with sawdust. In modern construction, they are not used so often, but they have a number of advantages. First, it is environmentally pure material, which certainly does not contain any harmful chemical additives. Secondly, the cost of such a heater will pleasantly surprise you, and if you consider that it is spent quite economically, then you can quite save money from family budget. Thirdly, sawdust can be bought at any hardware store, they are easy to work with and durable. Naturally, there are also disadvantages: fire hazard, risk of damage by rodents and insects, high moisture absorption, which significantly affects the thermal insulation characteristics. If you are still thinking about how you can insulate the floor, be sure to consider such specific features, because they greatly affect the life of the material.

Liquid heaters

Their main advantage lies in the relatively quick application, after which a strong waterproof film is created on the floor surface. Is it possible to insulate the floor with them yourself? As a rule, a special apparatus is used to apply this material, but you can do it yourself with a brush. The only difficulty lies in the fact that the coating will have to be carried out in several stages: the application of the next layer is possible only after the previous one has completely dried.

Styrofoam

This material is also often used in construction, so when asked whether it is possible to insulate the floor with polystyrene foam, professionals give an affirmative answer. Why has it become so widespread?

The advantages of this material include a low coefficient of thermal expansion and thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation, durability, resistance to steam and moisture, ease of installation, preservation of properties despite temperature changes and low cost. Agree, the list is quite impressive. This option is suitable not only for owners of private houses: if you are looking for ways to insulate the floor in an apartment efficiently and cheaply, expanded polystyrene will be an excellent choice.

Styrofoam

Many underestimate this material and think for a long time whether it is possible to insulate the floor with polystyrene foam, often refusing to use it. In vain, because it can provide not only good heat, but also excellent sound insulation. In addition, the market offers a wide range in which you can choose the required density and strength of the product.

Important! Styrofoam is good because, unlike natural materials, it does not lend itself to rotting processes.

Note that for the installation you will not need the help of specialists, so you can save a lot. The only thing that serves as a disadvantage is the possibility of fire, during which the foam can emit harmful smoke.

Izolon

Another popular material that is often used to insulate loggias and balconies. But is it possible to insulate the floor with isolon, and how well will it cope with this task? It appeared on the market not so long ago, but has already managed to win the recognition of professionals. The fact is that it has a high reflective effect, due to which heat losses in the room are reduced. It can be used in combination with any base, both wooden and concrete, so it can be considered universal. Despite its small thickness, it provides excellent heat, sound and waterproofing. It is environmentally friendly, does not rot and moisture, so it will serve you long years.

Penoplex

In fact, this material is expanded polystyrene, which contains many closed air cells. Is it possible to insulate a wooden floor with foam plastic? Of course! It is quite durable, effectively retains heat, is resistant to temperature changes, and almost does not absorb moisture. Of course, there are also significant drawbacks.

Important! It is better not to use penoplex in rooms with a fireplace or baths, because under the influence of high temperature it can simply melt.

Such a heater is quite expensive, so if you still have not decided how to insulate the floor, perhaps you should think about more budgetary and reliable materials.

Foam concrete and aerated concrete

These heaters are not only durable, but also resistant to the negative effects of the external environment. As a rule, they are used in the arrangement of load-bearing structures. In other words, foam concrete can be used both as a heat-insulating and building material. Please note that it is mandatory to lay a waterproofing coating designed to protect the insulation from moisture.

How best to insulate the floor in a private house is a task that almost all owners set themselves. And not in vain, because good, high-quality insulation will provide not only comfortable living in a home, but will also significantly save on heating.

Important! The choice of insulation largely depends on the operating conditions, the material from which the floor is made, as well as the floor covering.

All these factors must be taken into account. If you still have not decided how to insulate the floor, then we recommend creating a list of basic material requirements. This will make it much easier for you to decide. For example, lovers of natural materials can use sawdust, isolon, mineral wool or expanded clay as a heater. Those who prefer modern solutions in repairs should pay attention to penoplex, liquid insulation and polystyrene foam. Editing also plays an important role. Please note that the installation of some materials requires special equipment, which will entail additional costs. Please note that it is possible to insulate not only a wooden floor, but also a concrete or ground base. In any case, warming will not be superfluous.

Cold floors in private houses significantly reduce their traditional advantages compared to apartments. This problem is especially relevant if the house stands directly on the ground, without a basement. In this case, even with intensive heating, it is very difficult to warm the floors well. But even if there is a cold basement under the flooring, the temperature in which in winter can be kept at + 2-4 degrees, then the living room from above will also constantly give off heat. In addition to the discomfort from the cold floor, a lot of heat escapes through it into the winter time year, which increases heating costs.

Where to begin?

Ideally, insulation is carried out at the construction stage, in this case, thermal insulation is laid after the installation of the floor. The heat-insulating layer is laid between the draft and finishing floors, leaving a small gap, or the finishing floor is laid directly on the heat-insulating layer.

If you plan to improve the thermal insulation of the floor in an already built and lived-in house, you must either disassemble the existing floor or build it up with a layer of insulation and a finished floor. In many ways, the decision depends on the height of the ceiling and financial capabilities.

Materials for insulation

Several materials are traditionally used for floor insulation in private homes:

mineral wool. This is an inexpensive (from 1,400 rubles per m3), durable material. It is issued in different forms, most often you can find cotton wool in the form of a rigid slab or a flexible mat, each has two sides, it is laid with the hard side up in order to reduce the likelihood of deformation. Among the advantages of this material are:
- price;
- incombustibility (can withstand up to 1000 degrees);
- ease of installation;
- low thermal conductivity;
- good soundproof qualities.
A big minus of this material is vapor permeability, if waterproofing is not installed, the heat-insulating layer becomes impregnated with condensate over time, accumulates moisture (up to 70% of the weight) and quickly loses its insulating properties. Rodents also love mineral wool, so protection from them is required;

glass wool- a material similar in characteristics to mineral wool. Thermal insulation properties on high level, but glass wool is more difficult to work with, you need to make sure that it does not get on the body and in the eyes. That's why self-laying glass wool is not recommended;
Ecowool costs the same as glass wool (about 1,000 rubles per m3), in terms of thermal insulation qualities it is not inferior to the materials already listed. Ecowool is made from cellulose and is an environmentally friendly and absolutely non-toxic material, but, like any cotton wool, it accumulates moisture, attracts rodents and has combustible properties;
Expanded clay- clay-based material, it does not lose its insulating properties when moisture accumulates. Therefore, serious hydro and vapor barrier is not required. Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly and effective insulation. The only disadvantage of this material is that a layer sufficient for thermal insulation should be at least 10 cm, if the thermal insulation layer is thinner, the floor will be cold;
Styrofoam very popular for warming concrete floors, its significant minus is flammability, fragility. Due to the high fire hazard, polystyrene foam is more often used to insulate balconies than for residential premises. Cost - from 1,500 rubles per m3;
Styrofoam- better in terms of thermal insulation properties than polystyrene, practically does not absorb moisture and does not lose its insulating properties over time, resistant to mechanical stress. But it has the same disadvantage as polystyrene - flammability. When burned, it releases toxic substances, for this reason, such materials are not recommended for use in wooden houses. It is one and a half to two times more expensive than polystyrene;
Chipboard, plywood, sawdust and other organic insulation materials. They are not fireproof and are not ideal as thermal insulation, although they do not emit toxic substances when burned.

When choosing a material, be guided by the basic parameters that are different for different manufacturers, they are always present on the label and in the characteristics:

combustibility factor- materials G1 do not burn without direct action of the flame;
water absorption coefficient. Measured as a percentage, the lower it is, the less moisture the material will absorb and the longer it will retain its insulating properties;
coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower it is, the better material will isolate the room;
density - shows how much the material will make the floor structure heavier, the more layers and the greater the density, the more durable the subfloor and floor structures should be.

In most cases, one layer of insulating material is sufficient, leaving a gap of 2-3 or about 10 cm between it and the finished floor for air circulation, and the air also provides additional protection from the cold.

How to install thermal insulation

To start thermal insulation work, the floor must already be installed, in modern houses it is most often a monolithic reinforced concrete slab installed on the ground or basement.

If the house is installed directly on the ground, then the insulation is carried out in several stages:

filling is carried out under the floor covering of sand (5-7 cm) and crushed stone (10-12 cm), in the case of old houses, it is necessary to dismantle the floor and go deep into the ground;
then a draft floor is laid, most often a wooden one;
a layer of waterproofing is laid (waterproofing mastics or rolled materials), which protects the insulation and wooden logs from moisture;
logs are installed on the subfloor - parallel wooden boards or bars;
heat-insulating material is laid or filled between the lags (in case mineral and glass wool are used);
a vapor barrier layer is laid on the thermal insulation (usually polyethylene film is used, more efficient, but more expensive - professional membranes);
a finishing floor is laid on top, a gap is left between it and the thermal insulation for ventilation.

If there is a cold basement under the first residential floor, the insulation procedure is a little simpler, the heat-insulating material is placed under the floor or is laid by building up the floor by several centimeters.

The rough floor is cleaned;
Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid;
Logs are laid on it (this is an opportunity to level the flooring);
Between them, an insulating material is laid out without seams;
A substrate under the finishing floor and the finishing floor itself are installed on top.

The entire warming procedure can be carried out by one person in a few days. Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate private houses; it has an extremely low fire hazard. But it requires the installation of hydro and vapor barrier.

If there is a basement, it makes sense to install a heat-insulating layer on its ceiling, this greatly complicates the work on thermal insulation, but allows you not to reduce the height of the ceiling of the living room.

Some subtleties

There are several points to consider when planning and installing thermal insulation:

if there is a cold basement under the first floor, an important part of the floor insulation work will be the thermal insulation of the basement walls - through them a large amount of heat escapes into the cold ground;
all wooden floor elements must be treated with an antiseptic;
an obligatory element for heat-insulating materials is ventilation, it prevents the settling and absorption of condensate;
steam and waterproofing - mandatory for any type of thermal insulation material;
if a space of several centimeters is left between the layers of the rough and finishing floor, it must be insulated with a fine-mesh metal mesh - this will eliminate the possibility of rodents entering the underground, which are very fond of many insulating materials.

If the insulation work is carried out correctly, the floor will last as long as the basic structural elements of the house. All materials used for thermal insulation right conditions operation are durable and will not require replacement for many years. But if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to postpone the repair and turn to professionals.

According to experts, floor insulation increases the energy efficiency of buildings and reduces family costs for utilities. Laying insulation is especially important in the bathroom, because tenants often enter this room barefoot.

Insulation of the floor structure is necessary to create a favorable microclimate in the house. Carrying out such work is especially important in an apartment on the ground floor, because the premises of such a dwelling are not heated from below. Many property owners believe that wood flooring retains heat well, but in fact, even such products need additional insulation.

So why insulate the floor, many are perplexed? The answer to this question can be quite simple. The point is that the flooring country house or apartment occupies a significant area. Cracks and chips may be present on its surface, which contribute to the release of heat and the ingress of cold air into the middle of the room.

If we take into account concrete base, then such material is characterized by high performance (durability and strength). Despite this, reinforced concrete slab overlapping or leveling mortar screed has one significant drawback - it is a high coefficient of thermal conductivity. Due to this characteristic, concrete is considered cold. building material. Thermal insulation of the flooring structure increases efficiency heating system helps to reduce energy costs.

Laying thermal insulation is especially necessary for an apartment, which is located on the ground floor of the house. Living rooms are usually located above a damp and damp basement, which can lead to mold on the walls. To prevent this from happening, laying insulation and waterproofing is necessary. With a minimum of experience and the necessary construction tools, any property owner can handle such work. Next, we describe how to make floor insulation with your own hands.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

Before the process of thermal insulation of the floor covering in a private house, it is necessary to select a heater. There are a huge number of similar products on the construction market, but the most the best materials for floor insulation are considered:

mineral wool;
penofol;
extruded polystyrene foam;
isolon;
ecowool;
expanded clay;
sawdust.

It is not difficult to understand that sawdust is considered the cheapest type of thermal insulation. Such material is obtained after wood processing on special equipment. This is a secondary product that is environmentally friendly and has a minimal cost. In addition, sawdust can be poured into any cracks. The floor insulated with their help will be absolutely safe for human health.

The second most accessible and popular heat-insulating materials, mineral wool, are distinguished by good heat-insulating and sound-proofing performance. Such products are available in the form of mats or rolls. They do not burn when exposed high temperatures, in addition, fungus and mold do not appear on their surface. The main disadvantage of the material is the loss of its original properties when it penetrates into the water structure. In this regard, mats must be protected from moisture with high-quality thermal insulation.

Such heat-insulating material as isolon is made on the basis of mineral fibers. Such products are characterized by low thermal conductivity, resistance to chemicals and biological influences. The insulation has an average cost, is resistant to mechanical stress.

And the latest material is polystyrene foam high rates strength and resistance to moisture. Such products come to hardware stores in the form of plates, they are distinguished by excellent heat-insulating ability. This material is quite durable, rodents and insects do not take it.

To insulate the floor in a wooden house, many choose mineral wool. To carry out insulating work, you will need the following tool:

hacksaw or parquet floor;
electric drill;
building level;
plane;
drills of different diameters;
hammer;
sharp knife;
roulette.

The entire list of works is as follows:

Creating a subfloor from chipboard or boards, laying waterproofing.
Installation of wooden bars (lag).
Laying the selected insulation, in our case mineral wool.
Floor covering installation.

At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to remove the old coating and correct irregularities on the base. After leveling the surface, a rough floor is created from waste boards of coniferous wood. The slabs are tightly fitted and then treated with an antiseptic. If you do not use the specified impregnation, then the lags and wooden plank rot after 5-7 years of operation. All elements are fastened together with screws or nails.

At the next stage of work, a metal mesh with a small cell size is laid on the rough coating. Next, this structural element is sprinkled with a thin layer of expanded clay (about 4 centimeters). This material will not only press down the mesh, but also create the necessary ventilation gap between the insulation and the subfloor. Waterproofing, roofing felt or plastic film are also laid from below.

Bars or logs are laid on the waterproofing of a rough wooden floor. They are attached to the surface every 80-100 centimeters with nails or self-tapping screws. One or more rows of mineral wool are placed in the space formed between these elements. The insulation is mounted with overlapping joints, so that there are no gaps between the plate and the lags. Next, the installation of waterproofing is carried out, which is attached to the base using stapler brackets.

As a finishing floor covering, milled boards are used, which are interconnected using a groove-comb system. These elements should have the same thickness within 4 ... 5 centimeters, while their width is in the range from 10 to 13 centimeters. At the bottom of the boards, a special longitudinal recess is made for air circulation under the floor covering. In places where the boards adjoin the walls, a structural gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left. In the future, this gap will be covered with a plinth.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Preparation for the main work consists in dismantling the old floor covering and cleaning the surface of construction debris. Usually, an unnecessary structure is removed to a solid base, concrete or reinforced concrete floor slab. Metal scrapers are used to clean the surface from dirt and debris, as well as construction vacuum cleaner. After that, the pits and cracks on the base are sealed, using a cement-sand mortar or special glue for this purpose.

Before insulating the floor with expanded clay, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing work. To do this, the pre-leveled floor surface is treated with bituminous mastic or a dense polyethylene film is laid on the base. The strips are overlapped with a gap of 10-15 centimeters. In the future, the joining points are glued with adhesive tape.

For application bituminous mastic a roller or paint brush is used. Drying of one layer of the considered solution occurs for three hours. For reliable and high-quality waterproofing, it is necessary to apply up to three layers of material to the surface. In the future, a special damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room, which forms a gap after the screed dries and prevents possible deformations.

The installation technology of expanded clay screed is similar to the process of pouring concrete, therefore, at the preparatory stage, it is necessary to install beacons from metal pipes. If expanded clay will be used as backfill material, then T-shaped metal profiles should serve as beacons. The first guide rail is installed near the wall, opposite the door, while the maximum distance between the beacons is set within one meter.

The slats are fixed to the surface with cement sand mortar with an increased dosage of astringent. The beacons are leveled using a hydraulic or conventional building level. To adjust the height of the pipe, wooden wedges are used, which must be knocked in the right direction. The height of the rails is set in such a way that the height of the insulation screed is not less than 8 centimeters.

The first layer of expanded clay can be laid as a screed or in a dry way (filling granules of baked clay between the beacons). When using a liquid screed, the filling should be carried out in several successive stages. First of all, it is necessary to mix the expanded clay with the usual solution in a ratio of 1 to 5. After that, they start laying the first layer of the solution, it should be 2 centimeters below the guide rails.

Expanded clay, which is part of the concrete floor, is considered a fairly light building material, so the granules must be embedded in the solution with a trowel. After some time, the swollen clay will absorb moisture and sink into the bulk. When the first layer hardens, start laying the leveling concrete screed.

The thickness of the finishing layer of the solution must be at least two centimeters. The concrete mixture is poured in between the installed beacons, and then pulled together by the rule to make it perfect Smooth surface. Depending on the thickness, the setting time of expanded clay screed can vary from one to four weeks. During this process, the surface must be protected from direct sunlight.

Floor insulation in the apartment on the ground floor

In the case when the apartment on the first floor of a residential building is located above the basement, the best option floor insulation will be laying thermal insulation from the side of the cellar. In this case, one important advantage can be achieved - the floor in the apartment does not need to be torn off and redone. In this case, the level of the floor covering will remain at the same level as before. Such work can be carried out even by inexperienced builders, since the base surface does not need a fine finish.

As a heater, many choose affordable mineral wool, but laying such material requires special knowledge and the availability of construction tools. That is why most property owners use foam floor insulation.

The whole process of work consists of several stages:

They find a plan for the first floor of the house and mark out the basement in such a way that the boundaries of the insulation slightly exceed the dimensions of the apartment;
We determine the defective places on the basement ceiling. We close up cracks, holes or chips on the surface with mounting foam or cement-sand mortar;
We lay vapor barrier, plastic film. This material is overlapped, the sections are glued together using ordinary adhesive tape;
We build a frame from a metal profile or wooden bars of the desired thickness;
We lay mineral wool slabs, fix plywood sheets.

Installation of foam sheets is carried out somewhat differently. The fact is that the insulation in question does not allow moisture to pass through, so it can be fixed on the surface of the basement walls using a special adhesive solution. For the final fixing of the products, plastic dowels are used.

The second option, the insulation of the floor covering in the apartment, is characterized by increased labor intensity. Before repair work it is necessary to calculate the possibilities for the maximum rise of the floor. The higher this indicator, the thicker the insulation layer can be laid. In the case when the insulation work will take place after the repair of the premises, the first step will be to remove the floor covering.

After dismantling the floor structure to the base, the master checks the surface for bumps, cracks and chips. All defective places are sealed with a cement-sand mortar. Subsequently, the dried and hardened base is treated with a fixing impregnation, a substance called silling. At the next stage, a waterproofing polyethylene film is fixed on the surface, the panels of which are fastened with adhesive tape.

Next, a layer of roofing material is laid on the base, installed wooden beam, fix lags. These elements must be securely fixed in concrete. Next, expanded clay granules are poured to the thickness of the log. The upper part of the insulation is leveled with a cement screed. The logs do not fall asleep to the top, but in such a way that insulation can be laid between the rough and finishing floors.

As an additional heat-insulating material, mineral wool slabs of the required thickness, foam or polystyrene can be used. In addition, liquid insulation - penoizol - is often laid in the gap formed. Next, fix the plastic film along the logs with a stapler. At the final stage of work, a subfloor is made from plywood sheets or boards. The insulation is completed by laying the selected floor covering.

About the need for vapor barrier

Many do not know why a vapor barrier is needed in a floor covering with insulation. The fact is that the water vapor that is released during wet cleaning or cooking tries to seep through the walls and floors of the rooms, while it negatively affects various wooden structures, such as logs. Through the temperature difference in adjacent rooms or inside and outside the building, the steam turns into condensate. Subsequently, water seeps into the structure of the wood and causes its destruction.

Walls wooden house, as well as the roof are protected from moisture by an antiseptic or waterproofing impregnation, which cannot be said about the elements of the floor. To protect the lag is used vapor barrier film, which protects not only wood, but also insulation, such as mineral wool, from destruction. In this case, the vapor barrier allows the building to breathe. That is, air saturated with water will freely pass through thermal insulation and wood products.

Reading time ≈ 11 minutes

Saving energy in your own home is not an empty phrase - this is a real problem, on which the comfort and financial situation of the family directly depend. In this regard, sometimes the question arises of how to do it yourself without removing the old floor, that is, in fact, to mount a budgetary, but at the same time high-quality version of insulation. This desire can in no way be attributed to a whim or to something impossible - the most important thing here is the right approach to the situation, and this requires certain knowledge.

When is underfloor heating necessary?

The principle of warming any floor

More than once I had to deal with situations when residents of a house or apartment asked for help in warming the floor in order to somehow reduce heating costs. But the thing is that this is not always correct and insulation is needed not on the floor, but on the walls or ceiling, or it is not needed at all - the problem lies in bad windows and the front door.

When does the floor need to be insulated?

this is the first floor of a private house, where concrete floors are laid as a rough foundation, located close to the ground;
the first floor of an apartment building - the cold penetrates from the basement;
there is a basement under the floor;
a private house built in the northern region;
soundproofing is required.

What materials are used in such cases

Extruded polystyrene foam (foam) of different thicknesses

If we already mount the insulation on top of the old floor, then the conclusion involuntarily suggests itself that the material cannot be loose, but at the same time it must be thin. Such conclusions are certainly true, but only partly, since in some cases thick and sometimes loose insulation products are suitable.

What materials can be used:

Extruded . This is perhaps the most powerful insulation, although one of the most expensive, which are listed below. The thickness of the material varies from 5 mm to 100 mm. The usual density for domestic use is 35-45 kg/cm3. Depending on the manufacturer, the name of products from extrusion may change, these are:

EPPS.
XPS..
Pollan.
TechnoNIKOL.
Etc.

. Currently, the construction market is replete with such products, which are produced in rolls and mats (plates), with and without foil coating. There are three main types of such a heater:

- currently practically not used for domestic purposes.
- made from melted blast-furnace slag. Due to the particles of iron (Fe) that remain there, the material is undesirable for use in rooms with high humidity.
Stone wool - also known as basalt wool. It is made from melts of volcanic eruptions (basalt) and is considered the best of all three in technical and technological terms, but at the same time, the most expensive.

. By appearance very similar to extrusion, but it's just a foamed plastic with air-filled cells and a lower density (15-25 kg / m3). Panel thickness from 20mm to 200mm. Marked as PSB and PSB-S (does not burn, only melts).
. It is also called liquid foam, but in fact, it is urea-formaldehyde foam (UF) in liquid form. Its density in the hardened state can be 6-60 kg / m3, but in construction, options from 10 to 15 kg / m3 are used.
. This material refers to reflective thermal insulation, as it is a foamed polyethylene on one or two sides covered with aluminum foil. It is produced exclusively in rolls, its thickness is from 2 to 10 mm.
Cork. As a rule, it is used as a substrate for laminate and linoleum. Serves as heat and sound insulation of absorbing type.
. It is a very light hard porous material, which is obtained by firing shale or pure clay. Its density ranges from 350 to 650 kg/m3. There are four fractions of such material, determined by the grain size:

Large - 20-40 mm.
Average - 10-20 mm.
Small - 5-10 mm.
Sand - up to 5 mm.

Note. With the help of expanded clay of fine fraction and expanded clay sand, work is carried out on the installation of a dry screed. This is very often done over plank or other flooring.

Some methods of insulation over the front flooring

It makes no sense to consider all the options on how to insulate the floors in a private house with your own hands without removing the old floor, since some are simply similar in technical performance. Therefore, we focus our attention not on the materials, which, by the way, are already listed above, but on the ways in which you can achieve the desired result.

All work begins with the determination of the zero or finish level of the face covering, and this in this case is the instruction for laying all the materials listed above. That is, before proceeding with the installation of the crate, it is necessary to calculate the height of the ceilings and determine how much distance can be sacrificed, since not all rooms can be very high. In the days of the USSR, this issue was simple: the living room had at least 2.5 m in height, but now everything has changed. So, according to SNiP 41-01-2003, ceilings can be from 2.2 to 2.7 m high, but this is convenient, for example, for the Chinese with an average height of 165 cm, but for a European under two meters, such norms are at least may cause discomfort.

Installing a log over the old floor

Logs can be installed over the old floor without removing the cover

Imagine that we have the opportunity to raise the floor by 10 cm, but this is by no means the thickness of the insulation, but zero, which is possible at a certain height of the room. For insulation, it is more expedient to use lumber as a front covering: boards, moisture-resistant or laminated plywood, as well as oriented strand board of 3-4 strength and moisture resistance classes (OSB-3, OSB-4). However, others can be laid on wood facing materials such as linoleum, carpet or laminate - this is no longer included in the definition of height.

The thickness of the boards in this situation should be at least 25-30 mm, but this is only if the logs are installed in increments of no more than 400-500 mm - with an increase in the pitch, the thickness of the board increases proportionally. If sheet materials such as plywood or OSB are used, then the pitch should also be kept no more than 400-500 mm, although the allowable sheet thickness here may already be 18-20 mm.

But before installing logs on top of the old floor without removing the front cover, you should make sure of its mechanical strength and integrity, this is especially important for wooden structures. It may be that the floor has become cold due to dampness, and this in turn has destroyed the wood (floorboards and / or logs). In this case, repair of damaged areas is necessary - it is still easier than a complete replacement. In cases where dampness has not disappeared or fungal mold has been found on the wood, it is categorically not recommended to lay any other coating on top! Installation is possible only if the old floor is intact, dry and there is no dampness and fungal mold.

You can use a beam as a log, but this is not rational - it is much more profitable to use a 50 mm thick board, for example, 50 × 100 or 50 × 70 mm, or a 50 × 50 mm bar. Such beams are usually fixed to the floor with plastic dowels and long self-tapping screws, but all profiles should be set strictly according to the level.

This is a molly type anchor dowel - not suitable for fastening floor logs

Attention! I want to warn you that there is a widespread opinion on the Web or just a repetition of someone else's misconception that the logs are fixed on anchors, meaning a steel umbrella dowel of the molly type. Such fastening is possible only if the fixation line constantly coincides with the voids in the ceiling, but this is impossible in principle.

Insulation with foam plastic and mineral wool

Floor insulation with foam plastic over ceramic parquet

This method of laying insulation is most suitable for mineral wool and polystyrene, although no one and nothing prohibits the use of extruded polystyrene foam of any brand as insulation. Panels or mats are laid between the lags, trying to cling to them closely in order to exclude most of the cracks and gaps, although this is impossible in practice, but this is not critical.

In the case of laying mineral wool of any type (rolled or in slabs), all remaining gaps are sealed with scraps of material that will definitely remain during installation. The width of the mat for basalt wool according to the standard is 450 mm, therefore, the distance between the two edges (not centers) of the beams should be about 400-420 mm so that the slab fits snugly into the seat.

When laying foam, where the panel is standard 1000×1000 mm, it can be cut exactly in half, that is, into two fragments of 500×1000 mm. At the same time, the logs are installed so that their side walls are obtained at a distance of 497-499 mm. No, this is not aerobatics at all, you just need to try so that the PSB-S sheets come close to the seat, but if there is still a gap, then this is not critical. All cracks and small gaps are blown out with a mounting vein, which does not even have to be cut off after drying.

Attention! When laying polystyrene foam or mineral wool for floor insulation, it is imperative to make a ventilation gap, which significantly increases the operational life of lumber. Vent gap, this is the distance between the insulation and the wrong side of the boards or sheets of plywood or OSB, it should be at least 20-25 mm. Such a device promotes natural air circulation under the coating, preventing artificial accumulation of moisture, which is formed during cleaning of the room.

Penoizol insulation

Insulation of a wooden floor with penoizol

Penoizol or urea-formaldehyde foam (CFP) is in most cases used for floor insulation, although it can also be used for walls, for example, blown into the gap of the well masonry. It is possible to blow penoizol both under the coating (boards, plywood, OSB), and without it, although it is best to use the second option, since in the open space you can see the filling level of the material between the lags. Urea-formaldehyde foam has one nice feature: it does not increase when dry, like polyurethane foam, therefore, the level that was originally set will remain until the end. This makes it possible to provide the required distance (20-25 mm) for the ventilation gap between the front cover and the CFP.

It is seen: Fast way floor insulation

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam or cork

Floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam under the laminate

Materials such as extruded polystyrene foam and cork are widely popular for floor insulation, but most often they are bought in rolls and used as a substrate for laminate or linoleum. But it is also possible to use other modifications of such materials, this is a slab version of the product. So that no one has any doubts, I will say that when installing foam or cork on the floor, they easily walk on the panels with their feet and no dents remain, although they are easily cut with a knife. That is, you can cover the floor with XPS panels, for example, 30 mm thick and lay directly on top of it parquet board, laminate, plywood or OSB. It is allowed to install any rigid floating floor.

Floor insulation under infrared film

Thermal insulation of the floor with penofol under infrared film

When a film underfloor heating is carried out, then, as a rule, a reflector is placed below, and this is most often penofol or foil-foamed polyethylene. That is, the material itself can also be used as an ordinary insulating substrate for a laminate, but this is a special case. An IPO or infrared film heater does not heat the room, but the IR rays that bounce off objects and hit a person create a warm effect, keeping the air fresh. Aluminium foil, with which the substrate is covered in this case, is the best reflector of IR radiation, therefore, in such cases it is best to stop your choice on penofol.

Video: Floor insulation under the carpet

Dry screed

Laying dry screed on expanded clay sand

Dry itself is warm, since its main component is a material that is poorly conductive thermal energy, this is expanded clay of fine fraction or expanded clay sand. In fact, in this case, you are, so to speak, killing two birds with one stone, one of which is a cold floor, and the other is the lack of an even base for any facial covering. Dry screed can be mounted not only on concrete floors, but also wood and mineral (concrete, ceramic tile) semi.

Conclusion

As you can see, the question of how to insulate the floors in a private house with your own hands without removing the old floor does not represent any difficult, and even more so, insoluble problem. As you noticed, in the description, let's say, fundamental methods were used, but life hacks were used in the videos - choose what you like best!