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How to bleed air from expansion tank. How to properly bleed air from the radiator

Air locks in radiators interfere effective work systems. The battery does not heat up completely, and the family freezes in the apartment, because the cork does not allow water to spread normally through the radiator. Call the master from the housing office, he will remove the cork. But often the masters of high-rise buildings have to wait a long time, and the owners of private houses solve this problem themselves. If you know how to bleed the battery, you can easily do it yourself.

We release air from the battery - what needs to be prepared

Before performing the procedure, prepare everything you need:

  • radiator key. Sold in a hardware store. It must fit the size of the battery. You can explore your toolbox. Take from the kit a small wrench of a suitable size, wrench or another tool. An ordinary screwdriver is suitable for bleeding air from modern radiators;
  • large wide basin or bucket. You will pour water into the container;
  • rags. Spread them on the floor near the radiator so as not to flood the neighbors, you never know what happens.

Lightly tap the radiator with a hammer before bleeding. If you hear too loud a sound in some place, the cork is here.

We lower the air from the battery with the Mayevsky crane

Mayevsky's crane is located on the battery at the top. Some models have a plastic handle, no tools are required to open the faucet. Before venting air in the radiator with a Mayevsky tap, do not block the entire riser of the heating system and do not wait until the coolant has cooled down. This work is useless and reduces the effectiveness of the fight against traffic jams, as the pressure in the system will drop.

Procedure:

  • substitute a basin under the tap to collect the coolant;
  • put rags on the air vent. The liquid will be absorbed into the rags and will begin to drain smoothly;
  • smoothly unscrew the tap with a key or by the plastic handle. Hear a whistle or hiss, it's air coming out;
  • wait until a steady stream of water begins to flow. This indicates that you have broken an airlock. This will take 5 to 7 minutes. Experts recommend draining up to two buckets of water;
  • close the valve.


We bleed air from the battery with an automatic air vent

This device operates in stand-alone mode and is mounted horizontally or vertically on a battery. Removal of air congestion occurs without your participation. A special float is installed on the air vent. It hermetically covers the tap if there is enough water in the system. As soon as air accumulates, the float drops, the hole opens and the gas comes out. But the device has a drawback. It is very sensitive to water quality. If there are impurities in the coolant, the mechanism breaks. Therefore, use filters and periodically change the o-ring. Also, clean the valve regularly, otherwise water will leak from the battery. If you take care of the device, you won’t have to deal with air jams on your own.


We bleed air from the old battery with a plug

Old cast-iron batteries usually have plugs, if you have not changed them to Mayevsky taps. The work ahead is difficult, the plugs are fixed with tow and paint. First you need to turn off the heating system. For work, prepare an adjustable or gas key. Your next steps are:

  • put a rag on the floor;
  • put a bucket under the tap;
  • slowly and carefully unscrew the plug with a wrench. If it doesn’t work, apply a special lubricant or a little solvent to the thread;
  • after the air has escaped and the water has drained, wrap the thread of the plug with flax or FUM tape and tighten it. This will prevent possible water leaks.


We bleed air from the battery in a private house

In the heating system of a private house, air is released using an expansion tank. It is located at the highest heating point. After draining the water, wait a little and unscrew the tap on the tank. The cork will come out by itself, because the temperature rises. If there is no positive result, bring the water in the circuit to a boil and the air will definitely come out.


Timely removal of air locks from the batteries improves the efficiency of work heating system. After right action warmer in your apartment. The work is simple, but if you have any difficulties, call the experts.

The air in the batteries interferes with the circulation of the coolant and reduces the heat transfer of the radiators. Therefore, it is customary to bleed (bleed) air from batteries. How it's done? You can learn about this from our article. Below in the text we will consider the process of removing plugs from heating systems with single-circuit, double-circuit and collector wiring.

Features of the wiring device

AT modern houses Three types of wiring diagrams are used:

  • single-circuit version with series connection of batteries,
  • double-circuit version with parallel connection of radiators,
  • collector option with a tie-in of each heating element into the distributor.

With a single-circuit scheme, all heaters are "strung" on a heating circuit thread and form an actually huge radiator. The double-circuit option involves laying two threads with a battery insert. The collector scheme is based on the connection of each element with the boiler using a distributor (collector).

As a result, a plug in a single-circuit circuit can block the entire circulation. This problem does not threaten the double-circuit and collector version. But if an air bubble gets into the water, then one of the radiators will stop heating the room.

Therefore, such a blockage must be removed from any wiring. And the faster the better. How this is done, you can find out below in the text, where we will analyze the most effective methods bleed plugs from pipes and heating elements.

How to bleed air from a single-circuit system

To bleed air from you need to do the following: turn off the pump; add water by increasing the pressure; turn on the pump. The coolant flow will pick up the bubble and carry it into expansion tank. And if there is an open expander in your house, then the congestion will immediately go into the atmosphere.

If there is no pump in the wiring, then a boiler can be used instead. It must heat the coolant to the maximum temperature and then the air bubble will leave the water under the influence of pressure generated as a result of thermal circulation.

In closed single-circuit lines, it is customary to insert a separate outlet into the wiring with a valve at the end, the end of which is highest point wiring. With this outlet, you can bleed air by opening the valve. Moreover, if the plug does not leave the pipes and heaters immediately, then you will have to repeat the manipulations with the pump and the valve for supplying water to the heating from the water supply.

In addition, it would be nice to embed into the extreme heater, the exit from which leads to the return pipe of the boiler, the Mayevsky assembly or a conventional ball valve. As practice shows, the bubble most often accumulates precisely in the upper part of the last battery of single-circuit wiring.

How to remove air from a double-circuit wiring

To remove the congestion from you, you need to screw the Mayevsky crane into the radiator in advance, even at the installation stage. This valve is designed specifically to remove air from the heaters. And without it, it will be extremely difficult to remove the cork.

Well, the process of draining the congestion from the heating system is as follows:

  1. 1. Open the valve on the water supply from the water supply to the heating.
  2. 2. We put a bucket of 5 liters under each drain.
  3. 3. We open all Mayevsky's taps.
  4. 4. We wait until only water comes out of the drains.
  5. 5. Close the taps, close the valve and pour out the water from the buckets.

The pressure of water from the water supply removes the cork, pushing it through Mayevsky's open faucet. And if there is a little liquid between the drain and the air bubble, then it will simply drain into the substituted bucket. Well, after only water comes out of the drain, you can close it and turn off the supply from the water supply.

In this case, it is not necessary to turn on the boiler or pump. The necessary pressure is generated by the water supply itself. Moreover, in closed circuits, before opening the valve on the fluid supply line from the water supply, it is necessary to lower the nipple of the expansion tank, relieving pressure in the pipes and heaters.

How to remove an airlock from the collector system

Bleeding plugs from the collector heating system is possible only if the same Mayevsky taps are available. They cut into the free upper corner of the heating element during the assembly phase. Moreover, the collector structure is cleaned of congestion almost in the same way as the double-circuit heating lines.

To do this, you need to substitute a bucket under the tap on the radiator, close the valve on the return manifold, cutting off the heater from the boiler, and supply water from the water supply to the pipes. The pressure of the water will press on the bubble and push it out through the hole in the open drain. And the blocked return line will not allow the bubble to move into the boiler.

In this case, a decent portion of water can leak from the battery, so the bucket under the tap must be at least five liters. And, most likely, at the very beginning, it is water that will come out of the drain, followed by air. Therefore, it is not worth rushing and turning off the faucet.

After the congestion leaves the radiator, you should close the water supply from the water supply to the pipes and open the return line on the corresponding manifold. Having done this, you can turn on the boiler and pump.

How to find an air bubble in the heating system

The airy area can be found by tactile sensations or by ear. In the first case, you go around all the radiators (in the direction of movement of the coolant) and touch them with your hand on the top and lower part. If one of the batteries turns out to be colder than the previous ones, then in this place, most likely, the problem has accumulated. Therefore, Mayevsky's faucet must be opened precisely at this battery, disconnecting (if possible) it from the return.

Sometimes a cork can be identified by sound. The battery, partially filled with air, continues to work, but the coolant circulating in its insides emits a characteristic murmur. And if you hear this "trickle" in the room, then just go to the sound and find the problematic radiator.

Moreover, rare groans and creaks in the pipes have nothing to do with traffic jams. In most cases, they signal possible pressure drops or water hammer in the valve. This, of course, is not very good, but it has nothing to do with the airlock.

Even a correctly and efficiently assembled heating system can sometimes have certain malfunctions. Often they are associated with the presence of air pockets in the pipeline or radiators. We will talk about how to prevent this and how to eliminate this problem in the framework of the article.

Where is the air in the water

The presence of air in the heating system is a fairly common occurrence, typical not only for apartment buildings, but also for private houses.

It appears for several reasons independent of each other:

  1. The first is holding repair work during the interheat period. They can be associated with both replacement and .
  2. Mistakes made during the installation of the heating system, consisting in non-compliance with the required slope or poor-quality sealing of the joints. The price of such mistakes is high.
  3. A decrease in pressure in the system associated with a breakthrough or malfunction of the pumping station.
  4. The air contained directly in the water in the form of microbubbles, when heated, is released and accumulates in “convenient” places for it.

Ways to get rid of air congestion

Currently, in plumbing, two main methods are used to remove air from the system. The first is to install an automatic air vent, the second - to install manual control devices, usually fixed on radiators.

Appointment and installation of an automatic valve

Note!
Thinking about the problem of airing the heating system, which in especially severe cases may require even its complete drain, should be at the design stage and subsequent installation.
It is necessary to ensure a constant slope of 3-5 o in the direction of the coolant flow from the lowest point of the pipeline to the highest.

It will not be superfluous to provide for the installation of an expansion tank, which will allow the air to freely remove itself. Additionally, at several points along the flow of the coolant, places should be provided for mounting automatic air vents. Even systems with sufficient pressure are not immune from airing.

Automatic valves can be installed both vertically and horizontally. A prerequisite for their installation is the presence of a high-quality filter, since the devices are very demanding on the quality of the coolant.

We install Mayevsky's crane

Note!
Not one of the official construction documents - SNiPs or GOSTs - does not use the name indicated in the paragraph heading.
Usable is the "radiator needle valve".
However, in specialized stores, the seller will respond faster to the nominal name of the device.

It is a small modified nut equipped with an end valve that opens with a screwdriver or a special key.

AT Soviet time often simple valve cocks were placed on the radiators, which led to a massive withdrawal of water from the system.

The air vent for the radiator is mounted in one of the upper threaded holes of the heater. With any method of connecting the battery, one of them is usually free.

The lower free hole is closed with a plug. Mounting the Mayevsky faucet at the bottom is impractical, since it will be difficult to bleed air from the heating radiator - it accumulates at the top points.

To install a crane with your own hands, you will need an adjustable wrench or pipe wrench and winding. As the latter, you can use a special plumbing tape (fum tape) or natural linen paired with a sealant.

This guide will help you:

  1. Be sure to drain the system before performing work or shut off the radiator with stopcocks.
  2. Check that the diameters in the hole and on the tap match.
  3. Wrap a few turns of ribbon or linen hemp. Flax is better to additionally lubricate with a small layer of pipe sealant.
  4. Screw in the faucet until it stops so that the drain hole is facing away from the wall and pointing down at about a 60° angle.

How to remove air from the radiator

Not all users know how to bleed air from a heating radiator correctly. This leads to many problems.

Despite the fact that the process is available even to the weaker sex, subject to a number of rules:

  1. Firstly, when performing work in a private house, immediately before bleeding from aluminum radiator or another type of heater, turn off the booster pump.
  2. Arm yourself with a special wrench with a square hole or a screwdriver(pre-study your version of the Mayevsky crane).
  3. Be sure to prepare a metal container with a volume of 0.5 - 1 liter with a comfortable handle. It is better not to use glassware - if it falls, you will get not only a puddle, but also an abundance of sharp fragments.
  4. Attach the container to the outlet of the faucet and carefully unscrew the valve.

The reason for the low efficiency of the heating system is often the air that accumulates in pipes and batteries. To troubleshoot, you need to bleed excess air from the batteries.

Usually used for this Mayevsky's crane, but if it is not, other methods are used.

Causes of air in the radiator

  • Heat coolant- hot water releases air, which moves to the upper parts of the components of the circuit;
  • incorrect installation;
  • incorrect system startup;
  • insufficient pressure;
  • deterioration, weakness of seals;
  • poor water conductivity(clogging in pipes);
  • poorly done repair or prevention(this is true in apartments);
  • pipe deterioration and radiators, rust;
  • lack of air outlet in the system, improperly installed or defective air vents.

Repair work

Having found signs of the presence of air in the heating system, you should not immediately begin to get rid of it. First, the circuit is checked for integrity and tightness. After all, if there are leaks, the problems will continue.

Coolant leakage

Coolant leakage is a loss of fluid that occurs due to loose connections and damage to the circuit.

Photo 1. Leakage in the pipe of the heating system. Such a malfunction can cause poor performance of the heating structure.

Possible leak locations and solutions:

  1. Pipe sections. Clamps, cold welding are used to stop the leak. If the pipe is plastic, the entire segment is replaced.
  2. The joints of the parts of the system are sealed. welding is used.
  3. Loose connection of radiator sections. You will have to remove the battery and tighten the connections (on aluminum). Cast iron radiators are glued with a cloth with epoxy resin.

This is a time-consuming part of the work of preparing the system for the heating season. But it needs to be done Otherwise, you can be left without heat in the winter.

Permanent loss of coolant will lead to system instability.

Features of the underfloor heating system

The presence of a warm floor complicates the system, air in the floor hinges is not easy to expel.

Air plugs appear due to:

  • pressure reduction;
  • high heat coolant;
  • leakage formation;
  • leaks connections;
  • mistakes made during installation(uneven surface, pipe slope, errors in the organization of the collector);
  • illiterate first run systems.

In order for the system to start correctly, air is bled from it before turning on the boiler and heating the coolant.

If a warm floor is the main means of obtaining comfortable temperature, then air must not be allowed in it.

Attention! A normal system works even if there is air in there. efficiency will decrease but the heat will still flow. When air appears in the circuit, the floor will stop heating - the reason for this is the complex laying and the small diameter of the pipeline.

Expelling air from the floor circuit is a lengthy process:

  1. Turns on on the collector only one circuit.
  2. The pressure is increased above the working pressure ( by 15-20%).
  3. is running circulation pump at low speeds. To fill the circuit, some time is allotted for the coolant to displace the air. Then the next circuit is activated, so one by one, all the branches that go through the collector are slowly filled.
  4. The process takes several days. It is repeated until all the air is out.
  5. This is done with a cold coolant, the heating is switched on only when it is certain that the air has been completely expelled.

Reference. When installing the system, it is useful to think about equipping the floor circuit separator- a device for automatic removal of air from pipes.

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Coolant renewal frequency

Fluid is an important component of heating, which must be properly operated.

Periodic replacement is necessary, but do not abuse it. The optimal shelf life of the liquid in the pipes is 12 months subject to the mandatory draining of the system.

Synthetic coolants: propylene glycol, ethylene glycol stay in the system up to 7-8 years.

Photo 2. Canister with synthetic coolant for the heating system. This substance lasts longer than ordinary water.

The concentration of synthetic compounds in the composition of the liquid extends the shelf life of the coolant. But if there is no need to use antifreeze, then you can do with plain water.

The replacement time will be prompted by coarse filters: if they do not need to be flushed and replaced, then the water in the system is also suitable, it does not need to be changed.

This is important, because each fresh portion of the liquid is a fresh set of salts and impurities, oxygen, which reacts with new forces with internal surfaces, settling on them in layers, gradually reducing the efficiency of the system.

Important! Water that is already in the circuit - prepared liquid without impurities and active substances. The fact that the water has changed color does not change its value - it has already passed the reactions, received inertness and is now the optimal addition to the efficiency of the system.

If the radiators are clogged, then you can remove them for cleaning without draining, just close the valves.

System start

Excessive air is generated when pouring coolant into the system.

In order to initially start the system correctly, it is filled with coolant according to a certain algorithm.

Water is supplied from the bottom up, while closed must be drain valves only.

The remaining valves remain open until water begins to flow from them. So, gradually closing each tap, the system is filled and prepared for launch.

After filling the entire contour, it starts forced circulation (pump).

How to bleed air from the battery if there is no Mayevsky crane

If the radiator is not equipped with air release devices, you will have to get rid of airiness in a more laborious way.

For these purposes it serves plug sealed with tow. The design is usually covered with paint in several layers. This option is more common in older houses with cast-iron radiators.

If you hear and feel signs of airiness ( noise and cold batteries), then you will have to act according to a time-tested scheme.

To preserve property and health you need to take care of disconnecting the riser. If the plug is completely unscrewed, then there will be a flood.

What causes an air lock in the heating system and how can I get rid of it? This is one of the most popular questions asked at the time of starting heat.

What is an airlock?

The principle of operation is the following. When air begins to accumulate under the shut-off valve, the float, which ensures the closure of this valve, is gradually immersed in the liquid, the level of which, with the appearance of an air lock, accordingly, begins to decrease. As a result, the valve opens and the air lock in the system disappears. The level of the coolant rises, the float floats, and the valve again blocks the leakage of water into the external environment.

Air bleed through the plug

If there are no taps on the heating devices, such a problem as an air lock in the heating system of the house becomes much more complicated. You will need to unscrew one of the plugs.

  1. For these purposes, you should prepare a large adjustable pipe. A container must be placed under the plug.
  2. Next, the plug is captured with a key and rotated very carefully.
  3. It is unacceptable to completely unscrew the plug, as the heating system may be high pressure, the coolant will go straight into the room with high pressure, and it will be problematic to cope with the current situation. That is why the plug should be turned with extreme caution.
  4. It is advisable to first turn off all the available equipment in the room, close the window tightly and in the process of turning the plugs, you need to listen. If a slight hiss appears, the plug should not be turned further.
  5. At this point, you need to stop and put the key aside. Now you should wait until the excess air from the heater gradually but completely leaves the system. It is very simple to determine that the plug in the heating system has come out - liquid will begin to leak from under the plug.
  6. Then, using a large adjustable wrench, it is necessary to smoothly and carefully return the plug to its original position.

Bleeding air from the heating system of the apartment

Speaking about the features of air release, one should dwell on the sequence of the algorithm of actions. So, an air lock in the heating system of an apartment building is eliminated in the following sequence:

  • First, air is released from the lowest elements of the heating system closest to the boiler and lower.
  • In the last place, air is released from the devices that are highest in relation to the ground level and remote from the boiler.

Conclusion

After the above manipulations, circulation should be fully restored. hot water in the heating system, and the radiators become hot again. If some risers or heaters are still cold, it is most likely due to poor circulation, incorrect start of the system, or improper connection of radiators.