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How to lay tiles on a wooden floor? Self-laying tiles on a wooden floor You can lay tiles on wooden floors.

In many houses, the floor is made of joisted floorboards. When walking, it bends, so proper styling tiles or porcelain stoneware on a wooden floor becomes a no-brainer. In this article, we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor and how to prepare the base.

Unlike wood, tile has a number of advantages. Its qualities are excellent for use in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Tile:

does not ignite;
non-toxic;
not afraid of contact with chemical solutions;
withstands heavy loads;
does not conduct electricity;
does not lose appearance from moisture, sunlight or frost;
ceramics is unpretentious in cleaning.

The main drawback of the tile is the cold surface, so it will not be very pleasant to walk barefoot. To get rid of this, often use underfloor heating. installed even on wooden base.

Laying process

Installation of tiles is designed for a durable and hard surface. Therefore, first you need to survey the existing floor.

As a rule, old floors consist of several layers:

coating (laminate, linoleum, parquet, painting);
substrate (chipboard, boards, plywood), which is fixed on the logs;
Logs that lie on a concrete base along the entire floor with a gap of about 50 cm - they serve as the frame of the structure.

Wood floor preparation

First option

Suitable for those who have and bends.

1. Remove old coating and backing. If the old lags are in good condition, then you can leave them as a basis.
2. Remove the floor sheathing with a nail puller. Then set the logs on the substrate in a horizontal position using a level.

For greater preservation of the tree, treat the logs with a protective impregnation.

1. Fill the logs to the upper level with fine expanded clay. This will prevent the boards from bending when walking.

We sheathe the surface with boards (see article about) or thick plywood. Boards should be fastened with 2 self-tapping screws about 5 centimeters long.
For ventilation, leave small gaps between the boards or then drill holes.
We lay parchment paper on top of the boards and lay a new substrate. For this, gypsum fiber sheets with a thickness of 20 millimeters or a cement-bonded particle board of 10-20 millimeters are suitable. Sheets need to be fastened in a run-up using self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the lags, in increments of 15-20 cm.
The gap between the wall and the floor can be filled with mounting foam.
Now prime the surface and lay the tiles as you would a normal floor.

Second option

Suitable for those whose floor is in poor condition, but the conditions allow for a screed.

Remove old floor covering. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, the wooden floor is waterproofed under the tile.
The easiest way to waterproof is to use a plastic film.
Using a laser or water level, mark the horizontal line of the floor around the perimeter of the room.
At a distance of about 1 meter from each other and about 10 centimeters from the walls, install beacons. To do this, use metal profiles, screwing them to the concrete with dowels.
The screed is made either with a solution of cement and sand (composition: 1 part of M-400 cement to 3 parts of sand), or cast concrete.
The average consumption will be approximately 15 kg per sq. meter with a layer of 1 cm.
If you need to fill in too large a layer, then first pour expanded clay between the beacons, 2/3 of the layer thickness. Fill with a screed and wait for drying during the day.
After drying, clean the surface from the floating expanded clay. Prime and fill with mortar. This time you need to align it with the lighthouse rule so that the floor is even. Start leveling from the far corner towards the exit.
After three days, prime the screed and preferably fill it with a self-leveling mortar.
All! The screed is ready - now feel free to proceed with the usual methods.

Third option

Suitable for those who have a floor in good condition and sheathed with chipboard sheets.

Waterproof the gaps between the wall and the tree with mounting foam.
Soak the chipboard several times with protective impregnation or heated drying oil (be careful, this is flammable).
Then apply a thick layer of latex to the chipboard surface.
Immediately after applying it, place a masking net on the surface, and leave to dry.
When the latex dries, the mesh must be fixed with screws to the floor.
Treat the surface with a mixture of the following composition: 1 part water, 2 parts liquid glass, 2 parts coarse sand.
It is advisable to additionally level the surface with a self-levelling mortar. When everything is dry, tiles are laid on the wooden floor.

Video on laying tiles on a wooden floor in an apartment:

That's all the basic methods on how to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. As you can see, this is not an easy task, which will require a lot of additional preparation. And if you put a tile directly on a tree, the tile will quickly crack and fall off due to constant movement.

It is believed that a wooden floor is not at all a suitable base for laying tiles. But in this article we will dispel this myth and tell you in detail how to do everything correctly and reliably. We will show you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor using plywood as a leveler and stabilizer.

Also, if you are dealing with wooden floors, you need to use a special tile adhesive. But more on that later in the article.

So can you tile on wood floors?

Experienced tilers will most likely say that laying tiles on a wooden surface is a bad idea. This point of view is very common, and generally true. But, as you know: "if you really want, then you can."

This is due to the fact that wood is an unstable material. It changes its properties with changes in temperature and humidity, it can expand or contract. This will cause the surface to move. Tiles turn hard finishing material, and the base for it must remain stationary. If the floor in a wooden house will “walk”, then the tile will chip off, peel off and collapse over time.

You also need to remember that under a layer of tile adhesive, the tree will not get access to oxygen. This can sometimes cause the wood fibers to rot and break down quickly. Even if you provide decent underground ventilation and treat the wood with special impregnations, keep in mind that the service life of porcelain tiles is much longer than wooden planks and bars.

Our expert's comment:“In general, I am personally against tiles on wooden floor. In any case, it is not so reliable and durable. Several times I had to deal with this - everything seems to be fine. But in my opinion, it’s easier to remove the wooden floor and make the “floor cake” again with a concrete base. But yes, there are situations when you can take a chance and try to lay on a tree.

It is clear that sometimes it is either impossible or very expensive to redo the floor. Only in such cases, if you really want to see tiles on a wooden floor, you can try to “stabilize” the floor.”

If for some reason you need to put tiles on a wooden floor, there is a technology (or you can say an instruction) that will help you avoid the problems described above.

How to do it?

It is possible to make the correct laying of floor tiles on a wooden surface in several stages.

Preparing an old wood floor

Before laying a stabilizing layer of plywood on the floor (more on this later in the article), it is necessary to tidy up the base of the wooden floor. Ideally, there should be 1-2 mm between the boards for ventilation and movement when they dry out. But, if the finished floor is already lying and “tightened”, you can simply leave gaps between the walls and the floor.

The logs on which the boards lie should run longitudinally and transversely, at intervals of no more than 50 cm.

There must be a layer of waterproofing under the subfloor. In the space between the draft boards and the main floor, you can lay mineral wool on the vapor barrier or fill the empty space with loose insulation.

It is important to leave 5 cm of free space between the main floor and the top of the loose mix for ventilation. Also check that the boards are level. Damaged boards and logs must be replaced.

Ideally, it is desirable to disassemble the old wooden floor and process all its elements separately. Boards and logs need to be sanded, cleaned of old varnish or paint. After that, it is required to impregnate all wooden elements with antifungal impregnations.

Only after the impregnation has dried, fill the empty space between the draft and the main floor with expanded clay. Do not forget about the empty space for ventilation.

Laying plywood or drywall

When the old floor is prepared, waterproofed and insulated, you need to lay two layers of moisture-resistant plywood on it. You need to fix it with galvanized screws screwed into the logs. Plywood will strengthen the entire structure and remove the destructive movement of the tree when temperature or humidity changes. Carefully align the plywood sheets with a level and securely fix.

Advice from our expert:“In general, in this case, I would recommend the scheme: old wooden floor - plywood - cement screed - tiles. But I understand that no one will bother so much. Therefore, we skip the screed element, and act without it.

Another point: it is better not to use a tile. It is better to take porcelain stoneware - it is stronger, and in such a situation it is critical.”

You can use moisture-resistant drywall instead of plywood ( GVL), OSB sheets(OSB), sometimes even chipboard, but plywood is better.

Master's advice:“Plywood must be laid “in a row”, i.e. so that the joints of the top layer do not fall on the first layer. Yes, by the way, GVL can be laid instead of plywood.”

After the moisture resistant plywood is fixed, it must be treated with a primer deep penetration (we recommend "betonkontakt").

She needs to dry for 4 hours to continue further work. A moisture-resistant sealant must be applied around the perimeter.

The tiling process

When the surface is primed, you can start laying ceramic tiles.

In our case, classic tile adhesive is not suitable. You need to use a special polyurethane adhesive for tiles. It will be more expensive than the classic dry mix tile adhesive, but such an adhesive will at least slightly compensate for the mobility of the floor.

Alternatively, you can take glue from Litikol. Its cost is 3500 rubles per 5 kilograms. The height of the grooves of the glue should be 8-10 mm. It is just like for a wooden floor, for porcelain stoneware.

After applying glue to the plywood, start applying tiles to it, inserting plastic crosses between them. Be sure to check each tile with a level. After the glue has completely hardened, it is necessary to wipe the seams and fill them with a fugue.

Our site has separate and detailed articles on these topics.

Tiles can be cut with a grinder. Apply glue using a notched trowel.

Reliability and durability

Even if all the rules are followed, the reliability of such a surface will be much worse than tiles laid on a concrete base. concrete base much more reliable, and more durable in all respects. It is easier to lay tiles on it.

In a wooden house, the tiled floor can crack, “peel” over time.

We understand that there are situations when it is too difficult and expensive to remodel a floor. In these cases, you can lay the tiles as we described above.

Ceramic tiles are placed on a specially prepared base. It should be distinguished by a high level of strength and reliability, because it should be able to withstand big weight. The best option, perhaps, a leveled base made of concrete screed can become.

Can you put tiles on a wooden floor? Masters will unequivocally say: "Yes." However, we must not forget that wood is a living material and is highly dependent on the impacts environment, which imposes special requirements for the preparation of the base. So, start by preparing the foundation. The scope of the upcoming work directly depends on the state in which the wooden floor is located.

Work begins with a quality check of the base. Ideally, the boards should not sag or creak, they should be even, without dents or notches. The type of future coverage also matters.

How to assess the condition of the coating

A correct assessment of a wooden coating can only be made if it is “bare”, that is, without a paint layer. There are three possible ways to remove paint or varnish:

thermal. The surface is heated to about 600 ° C with a building hair dryer, after which the paint layer is easily removed using a conventional spatula;
chemical. Paintwork dissolve using special formulations or solvents
mechanical. A layer of varnish or paint is removed using power tools with metal nozzles, say, brushes. The cleaned surface is sanded with sandpaper.

It will be much more convenient to work if the emery is first screwed onto a small bar.

After cleaning, the condition of the floor is assessed.

The first sign of poor condition of floorboards or lags are noises and creaks when walking. Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, they should be removed using the following technology.

The condition of the beams is checked. If mold or fungus is present on the surface, it is necessary to replace it.
Subfloor level adjustment. For this, special gaskets are installed under the logs.
Warming. It is done if the level of heat loss is high. As a material, you can, or mineral wool.
Possible replacement of the rough coating. Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, it is necessary to check its ability to withstand mechanical stress. An alternative to standard boards can be sheets of fiberboard or DSP for the floor. It is important that they are waterproof.

How to put a tile on the floor with your own hands, if its wooden surface is not adapted for the adhesive composition? To avoid premature destruction of the rough base, direct contact of the natural material with glue or concrete mortar must be prevented. This can be done in several ways.

Often, floor boards change their configuration during operation. To level the floor surface, you can increase their pressure to the beams by hammering a few additional nails.

Formation of a damper layer

The main problem with this type of base is its thermal expansion. Under the influence of external factors, it can change its size or curvature. Therefore, it is impossible to lay tiles on a wooden floor without installing an intermediate layer.

It should have a soft base to compensate for possible floor movements. Most often, rubber or a similar material is used for this. The top has a hard surface. On it, you can correctly lay the tile on the floor without fear of possible shifts.

The technology of subsequent installation consists in performing the following actions:

Fixing the damper base.
Pouring concrete screed. Its minimum thickness can be 2 cm. Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, you should wait for the screed to dry. This process may take 7 to 20 days.
Ceramic decorative elements are being installed.

The advantage of this technology is the minimum likelihood of shifts of the wooden surface. The disadvantage is the increase in floor height. If this indicator should be minimal, it is necessary to lay tiles in a different way in the bathroom, kitchen or hallway.

An air gap is left between the insulation and the floor boards to remove moisture. Its size is usually 7 to 10 mm.

Foundation preparation

Good condition

Suppose the assessment showed that everything is in order with the subfloor. Then, chipboard sheets are laid on top of it, providing for deformation gaps between the flooring surface and the wall.

The chipboard layer is treated with a special impregnation or heated drying oil. Heat the drying oil very carefully, as it is quite flammable.
The flooring needs to be reinforced. First of all, latex is applied. The latex layer is supposed to be thick enough. It is more convenient to do this with a wide brush. Without allowing the latex to dry completely, a paint grid is laid out on it
When the structure is completely dry, the mesh is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws so that it fits more tightly to the floor.
It remains to carry out additional leveling of the surface. There are several options for the mixture: simple, or home-made, the main component of which is coarse sand and water in a ratio of 2:2:1. Continue immediately installation work it is impossible, since it is possible on a wooden floor only if the previously prepared surface is completely dry.

Satisfactory condition

This category includes floors in which there are no special claims to logs or draft boards, while top coat when walking, it creaks and flexes slightly. How to carry out work in this case, how to prepare the foundation? The sequence of actions is as follows:

dismantle the old finish coating and substrate.
it is assumed that the old base does not creak and can be left after being leveled: the subfloor must be carefully lifted and the logs leveled using a level.
wood surfaces are impregnated various formulations, antiseptics, flame retardants to prevent premature spoilage.
when the impregnation dries, the interlag space along the entire height is filled with fine-grained expanded clay.
lay the floor on self-tapping screws, keeping a gap of 3–9 mm between the boards. The wooden one is sealed by spreading impregnated parchment paper over the surface, after which a GVL or DSP substrate is laid. Sheets are placed in a checkerboard pattern and fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 150–200 mm. A mandatory requirement is the presence of a gap between the flooring and the walls of about 10 mm, which is filled with mounting foam.
the final stage is the primer. It must be dry when proceeding directly to the installation of a tiled floor on a base of wooden elements.

Bad condition

The floor is completely dismantled and the joints between the floor and the wall are sealed. For example, you can lay a cement-sand screed. Before the screed hardens, liquid glass is applied to its surface.
The concrete floor is primed, and then leveled along the beacons. The alignment process is performed in a certain sequence:

marking for beacons is carried out according to the level, laser or water. They are installed at a distance of 0.9–1.0 m from each other with a minimum indentation from the wall of 100 mm;
beacons are attached to plaster marks;
pour in the leveling compound.

Screed options

After the preparatory stage for the adaptation of the wooden floor for installation decorative coating start pouring the screed. It will serve as the basis for the final formation of the plane. One of the conditions is whether the minimum weight, as it can affect the strength of the plank surface.

At first sight the best option there would be a backfill of a dry screed. It is easiest to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands on it. However, one must take into account the height of the base, which is formed due to the wooden flooring. Therefore, summarizing the above, we note that in the case of a wooden floor, such indicators are achieved in three ways:

classic cement screed. It is laid in a thin layer - only 30 mm, so that it does not overload the wooden coating too much. The screed is poured onto a metal mesh fixed with self-tapping screws to subfloor. To reduce the likelihood of cracks during the drying process, the surface must be moistened with water from a spray bottle;
universal glue, the main component of which is liquid glass, or polyurethane. In both cases, it has a denser structure than the concrete mix. In small rooms, on an adhesive base, you can lay tiles on a wooden floor without first arranging a screed. In addition, it has a good indicator of elasticity, and can compensate for temperature shifts in the base without damaging the decorative surface. The solution can be prepared independently - for this you need purified sand, water and liquid glass. The proportions are 1:2:2;
in rooms where the percentage of moisture is low, another option is used - DSP or GKLV. They are laid "in a row" at an angle of 30 ° to the direction of the location of the draft boards. Laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom using this technology is prohibited.

Installation can begin only after the final drying and hardening of the base. If additionally installed, it must be disabled at all stages of preparation. Including - during the laying of tiles.

Regardless of the chosen type of concrete screed around the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to install a damper tape.

How to lay tiles correctly

Installation of a tiled coating involves the implementation of processes in the following sequence:

make surface markings
preparing the adhesive
lay tiles,
rub the seams.

There are several installation methods:

diagonally,
scatter,
parallel,
with a specific pattern.

As a rule, the desired option is chosen before the installation work begins and, in accordance with it, the floor is marked.

To begin with, they find the center of the room: connect the middle of the opposite sides with a coated cord and draw lines. The center will be at the point where these lines intersect.
The next step will be the direct laying of the ceramic floor. The layout is performed by taking these lines as a guide. Installation begins with a right angle at their intersection. The adhesive solution, prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, is evenly applied to small areas of the prepared wooden floor with an area of \u200b\u200babout 1 sq. m. with a spatula or a special spatula. Glue is also applied to each element of the floor separately, then it is pressed against the base with the rough side.

Putting each one, check its horizontalness and compliance with the level of neighboring tiles. The height of the masonry is regulated by the thickness of the adhesive. To make it fit better, you can lightly tap on it with a special rubber mallet.

Laying continues until the entire area with the applied adhesive is finished, adhering to the marking line. Not everyone has the skill to ensure the evenness of the seams, therefore, it is recommended to insert construction crosses between the individual elements of the coating: two on each side. Having finished one half of the room, they move on to the second.
Slots remain near the base of the walls, which are sealed with pieces of tile cut to size.
The canvas is left for a day to dry and covered with a primer.

When buying ceramic flooring, be sure to read the instructions first, as some models are already primed.

The last step is grouting. In all tile gaps evenly applied with a thin line. To do this, use a scraper, on which there is a rubber pad or spatula. In the latter case, an acute angle of the tool is used. Excess solution is removed with a damp sponge while it is still fresh, then the surface is polished dry.

Watch the video instruction for more.

Expenses

How much does work usually cost? Prices may vary, but in any case it will be more expensive than tiling on concrete. This is due to the costs that usually accompany the preparatory phase. As for the final stage itself - directly laying the tiles, its price can also vary. The cost depends both on the material used and on the installation method. The most expensive floor is lined with a pattern, or from an exotic type of material.

You can learn about the features of laying in rooms with high humidity from the video.

Life time floor covering and the quality of its laying is largely determined by the correct preparation of the base. This is especially true for ceramic tiles.

According to the recommendations of professional finishers, only an ideal, even surface that can support the weight of the coating and maintain its own stable position can serve as a base for cladding.

Therefore, many do not even think about how to put tiles on a wooden floor, confident that this is impossible. However, laying tiles on a wooden base is quite real. Consider all the subtleties of this process.

The main obstacle to such a combination is considered to be the instability of the wood base. Due to its characteristics, the tree tends to swell from an excess of moisture and shrivel from its lack.

A wooden floor may well be a good base for laying ceramic tiles. You just need to prepare it right.

In addition, a new wooden floor about one and a half to two years after laying settles and "falls" into place. But even after this period, all kinds of movements of the base made of wood are quite possible.

All this has an extremely unfavorable effect on the solidity of the base for cladding, in which structural bonds are broken. As a result, the tile begins to peel off and crack.

But that's not all. Experienced finishers will name a few more reasons why you should not lay tiles on wood:

Wood covered with waterproof ceramics is deprived of the ability to "breathe", which leads to its decay and gradual destruction.
The service life of boards and timber is much less than that of tiles.
Wood refers to warm materials, while tiles are cold materials, so wooden floors are more pleasant for a person.

If all the arguments seem unconvincing and there is a firm decision to lay tiles on a tree, you need to understand that you will have to create a kind of damper layer that will absorb all the movements of the wooden elements.

The elastic part of it will be turned to the wood, and the tile will be located on the hard outer side. Only in this case it is possible to perform high-quality cladding.

Foundation revision is an integral part preparatory work. Even if the old floor does not creak or “move”, it must be opened before laying the tiles

Revision of the wooden base

Before you get to work, you need to find out exactly how old the floor on which the tiles are supposed to be laid. If less than two, it is not worth starting, since the period of intensive wood shrinkage has not yet ended.

It is unrealistic to lay the cladding on such a base qualitatively. If the shrinkage is successfully completed, you can get to work.

At the same time, you need to understand that the floor managed to serve a certain number of years, therefore, a competent revision is necessary to assess the condition of the coating.

A wood floor resembles a multi-layered lumber sandwich, so even if it looks like new, does not creak or wobble, the floorboards will still have to be removed.

This is necessary to assess the condition of the constituent elements of the coating. Let's start with beams and lag. We carefully examine all the details, meticulously culling out all the elements that begin to rot and deteriorate. They will have to be replaced with new ones.

One more moment. If the logs are laid in increments of more than half a meter, they must be dismantled and laid again. Otherwise, the floor will not support the weight of ceramic cladding and screed.

The parts prepared in this way are carefully aligned with a level. They must be strictly horizontal. After that, we generously cover the logs and beams with a special antiseptic impregnation.

We fill the cavities not completely, leaving a gap for ventilation. It should be between the heat insulator and the top lag line. The gap is about 10 mm.

Be sure to measure the distance between the lags. If it is more than 50 cm, we dismantle the structure and lay it again. Otherwise, the floors will not cope with the severity of the screed and ceramic cladding.

Foundation preparation

Previously used wooden floorboards must be prepared for re-laying. Now they will serve as a subfloor, on top of which tiles will be laid.

First of all, you need to remove the old paint from them. You can do this in several ways:

Mechanical. We prepare a metal brush or a large sandpaper and erase the paint. Labor intensive and very dusty.
Chemical. It is supposed to use special washes that dissolve varnish and paint. Strict adherence to all recommendations of the manufacturer of the composition is required.
Thermal. The floor surface is heated with a building hair dryer. The paint layer becomes soft and is removed with a spatula.

The floorboards prepared in this way are ready for re-laying. We lay them on the logs, leaving 3-5 mm gaps between the parts, which are necessary to ensure the possible expansion of the wooden floor.

For fastening the floorboards, it is best to use galvanized self-tapping screws. We install two self-tapping screws in each extreme log, one in the ordinary. We sand the base, if necessary, level it using a grinder.

We make sure that there are no defects on the floorboards, such as holes from knots or old fasteners. If flaws are found, carefully putty them.

The technological gap located between the wall and the subfloor must be closed with a special damper tape. Instructions for gluing it are on the packaging of the material.

We leave a technical gap of 1 cm along the perimeter of the subfloor. It must be glued with a special polymer membrane, which is available in the form of a tape.

To do this, we bend the plastic strip in half, glue one half on the floor, the second on the bottom edge of the wall. It remains for us to form an insulating monolithic layer. This can be done in two ways.

First: generously coat the floorboards with special latex impregnation or heated drying oil.

Second: we lay special parchment paper or its waxed or bituminous rolled counterpart.

In the first case, without waiting for the composition to dry, we completely cover the base with a paint grid.

Arrangement of the screed

We lay the screed on the prepared base. It can be done in three ways.

Method #1: Dry Leveling

The most common and simple solution. It consists in the formation flat surface from moisture-resistant plywood or a material similar in characteristics to it, on top of which tiles can be laid. For dry leveling, various methods can be used:

The construction of a system of logs or point supports on top of the flooring from the boards. Covered with sheet material.
Laying a finished adjustable floor with screw supports under plywood sheets.
Attaching quartered GKVL, plywood or OSB boards to leveled floorboards. It is carried out using self-tapping screws.
Laying a duplicating layer of plywood on the previously made plywood substrate.

These are just a few of the many options available. You need to understand that the last leveling layer should be plywood or its equivalent in the form of one of the varieties of chipboard.

The final step in the formation of a dry screed will be sanding the plywood base along the seams and filling the joints with sealant. After that, the base is primed with a composition compatible with the adhesive.

For gluing ceramic tiles, you need to choose a two-component polyurethane adhesive, which is particularly elastic. This is necessary to ensure small linear movements, which are characteristic of wood-based panels.

To make your work easier, you can purchase a ready-made adjustable floor with screw plastic supports. It assembles very quickly and perfectly levels the surface.

Method # 2: Lightweight "wet" screed

It differs from the traditional screed for tiles with a small thickness, which is explained by the insufficient bearing capacity of wooden floors. They simply can not withstand the weight of a full-fledged leveling layer.

The second feature of such a screed is a complete cut-off from the walls and the underlying base. The base is made according to the principle of a floating floor with a mandatory deformation gap located around the entire perimeter and around all communications crossing the ceiling.

Thus, all wooden elements can "play", while the cladding, lying on a monolithic base, will not feel any movement.

The standard thickness of a lightweight screed is 30 mm. It is rather dangerous to increase it, since the weight of the leveling coating will be greater, which is undesirable for wooden floors. It is also not necessary to reduce the thickness of the screed, otherwise it will not be reliable enough.

Minor deviations in the direction of increasing or decreasing the thickness of the coating are allowed. The base can be equipped in two main ways:

Standard cement screed, consisting of a mixture of sand, cement and plasticizer.
Polymer screed, it includes liquid glass and KS glue or a two-component polyurethane adhesive. The mixture can be replaced with a homemade solution, which includes two parts of liquid glass, two parts of clean sifted coarse sand and one part of water.

The screed poured onto a wooden base must be lightweight, otherwise the floors will not withstand its weight. The thickness of the solution layer should not exceed 3 cm

Regardless of the composition of the screed, its filling is as follows:

On top of the waterproofing layer equipped on the rough floor, we fix the metal mesh with the help of self-tapping screws.
Fill the screed, pull it out in the usual way and level it.
Let the solution dry completely.
We process with any primer compatible with tile adhesive.

Method #3: Express Method

The main advantage of this method of arranging the base for tiles is the speed of its implementation. Its essence lies in gluing sheets of moisture-resistant drywall to the prepared rough flooring.

For work, an elastic two-component polyurethane adhesive is usually taken. If the rigidity of the floor does not suit you, the craftsmen recommend laying a second layer of moisture-resistant material. In this case, it is necessary to lay the sheets so that the seams of the lower and upper rows do not match.

When working with particle boards, plywood or drywall, do not forget to fill the joints of the sheets with sealant

All joints between tiles should be filled with sealant and then treated with a primer compatible with tile adhesive.

It is important to remember that the drywall base must be made according to the principle of a floating floor. That is, a technological gap necessarily remains around the entire perimeter of the base. After laying the tiles, it is filled with sealant and covered with a plinth. This is necessary so that moisture does not get under the cladding, which can destroy the coating.

All three methods described above for arranging a base for tiles - general recommendations, requiring some refinement, taking into account the technical specifics of the object.

In fact, there are many more variations on this theme. It is important to understand that the master is required to build a kind of motionless "tray" lying on a moving wooden base.

It is necessary that the rigid base under the tile does not interfere with the tree to “breathe” calmly and move as needed. At the same time, the draft wooden floor should not affect the screed with tiles, otherwise it will inevitably destroy it.

Facing the prepared base is carried out according to the following scheme:

We do a sample. We try to make sure that the trim is on the periphery of the room or in its shaded areas. Therefore, we begin the preliminary layout in the central zone, where the lighting is maximum. At the end of the procedure, we determine the number of tiles that will have to be cut, and prepare them in advance.
We mark the floor in the room. Find the center using the intersection of the diagonals. Then we divide the room into four segments.
We prepare the adhesive composition. At the same time, we strictly follow the recommendations of the manufacturer of the mixture. Considering that the solution dries quickly, we prepare it no more than is needed for facing one square meter of the floor.
We are preparing a spatula-comb. This is the name of a jagged tool with which a solution is applied to the tile. The size of its teeth depends on the size of the ceramic lining. For large plates, we choose a spatula with 0.8 mm teeth, for small ones - smaller teeth.
We glue the tiles. We apply adhesive to the base, take the part and precisely lay it in the right place. We insert special plastic crosses between the cladding plates so that the tile seams are even.
We control the setup. We regularly apply a building level to the laid row of cladding, checking the horizontal and vertical. It will be possible to correct the shortcomings only until the composition seizes. "Wet" mortar makes it possible to slightly move the tiles, correcting the direction. If the lining is “fuse”, carefully remove it, add the solution and put it in place.
We lay all the whole tiles, then proceed to laying the prepared pruning.
We are waiting for the glue to dry.
We wet the inter-tile seams and rub them with a special compound. Experts recommend using silicone elastic grout for this purpose.

For gluing tiles to plywood or drywall, a two-component polyurethane adhesive is best, while cement-based adhesives can be used for screed

As practice shows, laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor is quite possible. The main thing is to take into account the specifics of the wooden base and correctly prepare it for further work. It is important to follow all the recommendations exactly and do not forget about creating an insulating layer.

A properly laid coating will protect the wood from both damage and decay, while the tile will not crack and collapse. This will allow the cladding to last a long time and save the owner of the premises from unplanned repair costs.

With a range of colors, textures, patterns and more external characteristics it can compete with almost any coating, but still the main quality of the tile is its wear resistance, as well as good water-repellent and fire-resistant qualities.

Masonry features

It is stereotypically believed that tiles are most often used for kitchen or bathroom cladding. But increasingly, craftsmen are resorting to its use in living and working areas, and not just in the kitchen. One of the most difficult questions for a DIYer when dealing with tiles to replace an old floor is: Is it safe to install ceramic tiles on a wood floor and how effective is it?

Most tile manufacturers unanimously declare that their products cannot be laid on wood, since a plank base does not guarantee rigidity and strength for the entire flooring structure.

If a sufficiently movable wooden floor begins to rot or the concrete screed on top of it begins to crack, when the boards begin to sag, then the tile will also crumble and cracks will form in the floor.

But to the delight of craftsmen who are looking for new ways and are not afraid to experiment, techniques are becoming known today in which laying tiles on a wooden floor becomes possible. Of course, the most important role in this technique is played by the quality of the base preparation.

Preparing a wooden floor for tiles

At the very beginning of the work on laying a new floor on top of the old important point is the correction of those shortcomings and defects that the previous coating has. If we talk about tiles, then the key here is the acquisition of a wooden base. high level strength and rigidity.

The preparation of a wooden floor is divided into stages:

First, you need to completely sort out the entire wooden floor, remove the boards that have flaws, cracks or rot. It is important to make sure that the frequency of setting lags corresponds to their bearing capacity, because together with the tile, the weight of the floor can increase several times.
After the floor is disassembled and moved, it is worth making sure that it is even. To do this, use the level that measures the horizontal lag. It is important during this check to leave gaps of 10 millimeters between the walls and the rough base. These gaps will need to be insulated with mounting foam. In order to give durability to the floor, expanded clay is used, which will also become a good sound insulator and increase the energy efficiency of the floor.
Next is the wooden base. These can be boards, if they are in good condition, as well as plywood, the thickness of which is at least 12 millimeters. Such plywood is perfect as a base for a tiled floor and will withstand its weight.
Logs and the rest of the rough floor must be treated with chemical impregnations that protect them from fungus and decay.
Boards, as well as plywood, must be fixed, while providing for ventilation due to gaps between them up to half a centimeter wide.
A waterproofing layer made of polyethylene film, parchment or bitumen is laid on top of the rough base.

Installation of the base under the tile

Three methods of installing the base under the tile are determined, each of which has its own technology:

In the first case, a conventional screed is used, which is thin and light. To do this, use a metal mesh attached to the subfloor with self-tapping screws using beacons. After that, a cement screed is poured, the thickness of which is about 3 millimeters. It is also possible to use a self-leveling screed.
In the second case, a base made of polyurethane adhesive on a liquid glass basis is used. It also, after drying, forms a good insulation against moisture. Such connections are adapted for laying tiles on top of a wooden floor, withstand a lot of weight.
In the third case, a cement-bonded particle board, moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber are installed on the waterproofing. The third of these materials is more recommended because it has greater strength and ductility, as well as insulating properties. The flooring is attached to the rough flooring with the help of self-tapping screws, while avoiding the suturing of gypsum fiber and floor elements. The seams of the base are glued with special compounds. In some cases, 2 layers of gypsum fiber can be used. Further sheets or plates are covered with a soil base until completely dry. This option is good when tiles are laid on a wooden floor in a wooden house.

Installation steps

After preparing the base for the tile, you need to make sure that it is horizontal, which is checked using the building level. After that, you can lay the tiles.

The installation steps are as follows:

preparation;
markup;
glue;
direct laying;

At the preparation stage, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material to be used. Usually, up to 10% of the tile area is taken into account, compared to the area of the entire room. The main thing is that at this stage it does not turn out that the purchased ceramic tile wall, not floor: these two types of tiles are similar to each other, but the wall is fragile and not suitable for flooring. It also has no anti-slip effect.

After that, the tiles are laid out over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room in order to externally assess the appearance of the future floor, as well as identify places for holes for pipes and other communications.

It is necessary to check whether the height of the new floor allows the door to be opened. Otherwise, you will have to change the height of the door, hang it on higher hinges before installing the tiles on the wooden floor.

It is important to get rid of the air in the tile, for this it is soaked in water for 15 minutes. If the tile does not withstand such a procedure and stains appear on it, then you should simply clean the bottom surface of the tile with a damp brush.

Marking and preparation of glue

Marking should be done so that you have to use as few cut tiles as possible, placing them near the walls. When laying diagonally, you still have to cut a lot of tiles, and along the wall, laying is carried out, starting from the side of the room opposite to the entrance.

If a design decision assumes the presence of a special pattern, then you need to act in accordance with this plan, taking into account the need for communications, the optimal floor height and other preparatory nuances.

The next step is to prepare the glue. Tiles are laid on a wooden floor using a special cement adhesive. To prepare it, they use the purchased dry powder, ordinary water in an amount that depends on the instructions, as well as a certain amount of plasticizers.

Since such mixtures usually have a short drying period (no more than 4 hours), the adhesive must be prepared in small portions and used immediately. For good laying and high-quality adhesive consistency, it is best to mix it with a construction mixer.

The adhesive is applied in even strips using a notched trowel. Start applying in one of the corners, in the center of the room. For each tile size, it is worth choosing separate sizes of the spatula and its teeth. In this case, the teeth should have a value that is 30-40 times less than the width of the tile.

The glue dries in a short time (up to 15 minutes), so you need to apply it for about one square meter area, after which the tiles are immediately applied.

Laying on wood floor

When laying a tile on a wooden floor, it must be pressed against the adhesive using a rubber mallet and compacted with light strokes. Each section of the processed edges of the surface must be covered with tiles, after which the next square meter or area of \u200b\u200bthe room is processed.

First, whole pieces of tiles are laid on a wooden floor, and only after that they begin to fill in the free floor cells near the walls. The necessary pieces of tiles are cut with a special tile cutter.

After laying, the floor is cleaned with a rag, removing glue residue. Drying is expected for two days, after which seams are sealed. They are rubbed with fugues, which give the floor a more aesthetic appearance.

In order to properly apply the fugue, it must be applied with a rubber spatula in diagonal movements. All joints must be filled, after which the remains of the fugue are removed. After that, after half an hour, the fugue dries up and the floor must be wiped with a damp cloth, and after another hour with a flannel. At this tiled floor over wood is ready.

Thus, it turns out absolutely identical to the usual tiled, laid on concrete screed, coverage. It has sufficient strength if no mistakes were made when processing logs, plywood and boards. Treated wood will serve as a base under a tiled floor for a long time. In addition, it will also provide good thermal insulation.

Thanks to the use of expanded clay and special compounds, impregnation of a wooden floor, it improves the quality of the tile coating, getting rid of its own shortcomings. Thus, even the simplest floor becomes a good basis for laying floor tiles on wood.