Plumbing

Homemade dream - a do-it-yourself tool cabinet with drawings and a detailed description. Do-it-yourself tool cabinet: assembly steps, lighting Do-it-yourself wooden tool cabinet

Tools are available in every home. Especially if there is a man in it who loves and knows how to make something with his own hands. Then the tools are just an incredible amount. After all, in a good economy everything is useful.

Scheme of installation of fasteners and fastening of shelves.

Hammer, screwdriver and pliers, which are often used for elementary works, can be placed anywhere.

But for a large number of tools, a good and convenient cabinet is required. It should fit the entire instrument and also not take up too much space.

For these purposes, cabinets, bedside tables, chests are fitted. Hang the tool on the wall in the corridor or glazed balcony.

Scheme of assembling a hanging cabinet for tools.

You can, of course, use all of this. But it’s not difficult to make a tool cabinet with your own hands. And this optimal solution. Indeed, in this case, it will be ideally suited to the needs of the home master.

There is a wonderful version of such furniture, which is a wardrobe with two doors. The doors swing open, and in the middle part of the cabinet there is a folding table. It is convenient to use for work. In the closet, you can mount a separate lighting, which will further increase comfort. When closed, it takes up very little space, so it can be installed in a small city apartment. For example, on the loggia. Such furniture will satisfy the needs of the most captious master.

For this you need:

pine boards;
plywood;
wooden bars;
hacksaw, hammer, nails, screws;
metal corners;
hinges and other accessories.

Before you start making a cabinet, you need to decide on its location in the house and, accordingly, on the dimensions. For example, there is free space - two meters along the wall. If the central part of the cabinet is 100 cm wide, then the doors should be 50 cm each. When opened, they will occupy these 2 meters of free space. The height, for example, will also be 2 meters. Everything, the sizes are defined.

Now you need to take the prepared lumber and cut them to size. The back of the cabinet, as well as the back (and at the same time the front) part of its swinging doors, can be made of thick plywood. The side walls are made of boards. Between themselves, the boards can be connected with metal corners.

Schematic diagram of the shelving unit.

As a result of such work, three identical rectangular boxes are obtained, as it were. Now the task is to attach the sashes on hinges or hinges to the central part so that they open and close easily. But before you do this, you need to fix the central part of the product on the wall. Here, high-quality fasteners are important, since, given that the table will recline in the closet, it will have a large load. You need to fix the cabinet directly to the wall using metal corners. The corners are attached to the boards. Holes are pre-drilled in the wall, into which the chopsticks are hammered.

After the central part of the product is fixed, you can mount the table. He is wooden board, which is lowered on hinges in lower part closet. From below, on a table-top, 1 or 2 folding legs are fixed. The same on the hinges. Hinges can be used for door hinges. But they must be sufficiently massive and fixed firmly. The tabletop should not be too large so as not to increase the load on the cabinet. In the folded position, there should still be free space under it.

The next stage of work will be fastening the opening doors. They need to be adjusted so that the move is smooth and they fit perfectly in size. To fix the sashes in the open state, special fasteners can be provided on the wall.

Tool holder

Tool cabinet detail drawings.

Next important point in the manufacture of such a cabinet is the fastening of various tools in it. After all, that is what it was created for.

Of course, that all heavy tools should be located in the central part, which is securely fixed to the wall.

In the doors, as moving parts, lighter things are located. You can fully use your imagination so that everything is at hand and the tool is convenient to use.

For example, metal or plastic boxes with various small things can be fixed on the doors: nails, screws, bolts, etc.

At the very bottom of the central part, it is possible to provide fasteners for a heavy tool, such as a puncher or a grinder.

Lighting installation

Of course, you can also install a portable table lamp with a clothespin mount. But it is much better to have separate lighting for such a cabinet. In addition to the lamp, you can also provide a socket located so that you can conveniently turn on the power tool there. If desired, you can even draw a separate line from the electrical distribution panel. The line must be connected via an emergency shutdown switch.

Well, the toolbox is ready. It remains only to pay attention to the exterior finish, so that when closed it fits well into the interior of the room. Don't forget about door handles. If there are small children in the house, a latch or lock can be provided.

This closet is very handy. It not only allows you to store a large number of tools and everything that can be useful for a home master, but also is a mini-workshop with electricity and a small table.

After reading this material, the question of how to make a cabinet to place a home tool in it disappears by itself. After all, the description is quite detailed.

So that the tools do not take up much space and are laid out in their places, you need to make a tool cabinet with your own hands.

Thanks to the tool cabinet, you can save time looking for the necessary tools and put things in order in the workshop.

Now tool boxes have become widely popular, but with a large number of things and working materials, it is still better to make a separate cabinet for them. A special cabinet will allow you to quickly find the necessary item, as well as avoid cluttering the room.

Wardrobe: description, advantages

Such lockers are made small. In addition, the drawers must be shallow (the depth must ensure that the tool is placed in 1 row).

The design of a specialized locker has a number of advantages, which include the following:

The design of specialized cabinets involves removable (retrievable) boxes that are convenient to carry to the place of work.
The tools lie in one layer and one row, which allows you to quickly find and get the necessary item without scratching or clinging to others.
Due to the small dimensions of the boxes used, the cabinet itself ends up being small-sized.
Ease of manufacture. Such a locker is easy to make on your own, using improvised materials and a minimum of tools.

Separately, it is worth adding drawers under expendable materials: self-tapping screws, screws, bolts, nuts and other hardware. It is desirable to make them so that each partition forms a square. This will allow you to decompose all the small things into cells that need to be signed.

What is required to make a simple tool cabinet will be discussed below.

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Materials and tools necessary for work

In order to do something, you need to collect the right materials. For the cabinet you will need:

Board. Boards can be anything, the cheapest and recommended option is to use a pine board. They make a cabinet frame out of it. The amount of material is calculated and purchased based on the planned size of the craft. The thickness of the board is unprincipled, but it is recommended to take a thicker one, since metal tools have a large mass.
Plywood. The back wall of the cabinet, as well as partitions for drawers, are made from it. Do not use plywood as a bottom for boxes: the sheet is fragile and may not withstand big weight. The amount of material depends on the size of the cabinet, the number and dimensions of the partitions.
Bar. It is advisable to take from the same tree as the boards. Used to create legs or skids for cabinet installation. It is better to use a bar 50x50.
Corners for fasteners. To give the structure strength, you should use specialized furniture corners. Hinges may be needed if you plan to create doors to the cabinet.
Screwdriver. To it should be selected in advance drills of the desired diameter and bits.
Electric saw or hacksaw. Required at the preliminary stage for cutting boards.
Furniture screws with a set of special nuts for them.
Self-tapping screws. It is advisable to make auxiliary fasteners with self-tapping screws, but you can also use nails, in which case you will also need a hammer.

On this list necessary tools and materials, in order to make a tool cabinet with your own hands, you can finish. But there are some recommendations for acquiring materials. Special furniture screws and nuts for them are recommended to be purchased from brass: it does not rust, has high strength, but is expensive.

For wood (when working with a screwdriver), galvanized self-tapping screws are also suitable. It makes no sense to purchase black sharp steel screws (they are more expensive for the same strength characteristics). It is not recommended to use nails when assembling the structure due to the fact that the tree dries out over time and they cannot provide the necessary strength. Shelves can be made from a strong sheet of plywood, but it is recommended to make them from thin boards: they are more reliable and do not sag under heavy weight.

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Preparatory stage

At the preparatory stage, a number of works necessary for normal assembly are performed. You should start with a drawing. If the cabinet is made for yourself, and not to order, you can not bother carefully drawing out the design, but make a small sketch. You should decide on the dimensions of the main parts: the back and side walls, the lid and tray, the shelves (they are usually comparable to the dimensions of the lid and walls minus 3-5 mm). When designing a cabinet, remember that the thickness of the shelf must be taken into account.

The drawers must be assembled and fitted to the dimensions of the shelves (minus 5-7 mm for free movement). It is not recommended to make drawers non-removable: this will complicate the work with the tool. It is recommended to design the placement of tools in boxes in 1 row (and 1 layer). This will add convenience during work and allow you to make the locker shallow.

The legs can be made from a bar quite simply - just cut out 4 cubes of sizes 50x50x50, but it is better to mount them on the runners from the bar. To do this, fix the beam along the length perpendicular to the direction of the boards along the extreme lines of the bottom of the cabinet, and attach the legs to the received runners.

Before starting all work, absolutely all wooden parts. To do this, timber, boards and plywood are impregnated with an antifungal (antibacterial) solution, then they are allowed to dry. The next step is impregnation with a special primer for wood. After the primer dries, it is treated with Aquastop.

If the boards are unprocessed (unplaned), then they should first be planed and also sawn according to the dimensions of the parts for the cabinet (it is important to process the end surfaces as well).

Collect your hand tools and more in this elegant storage that's easier to make than you might think. The design consists of boxes that are easy to make from solid wood and plywood, and a solid base. The lower part of the cabinet with many drawers can itself serve as a small workbench (photo bottom left). The doors are decorated with straight lines of rustication and decorative butterfly inserts, which are easy to make using a special set of copy sleeves (see the article "Decorative inserts without the slightest gap").

Start with a solid foundation

1. From the boards with a thickness of 38 mm, cut out the supports and drawers BUT, legs IN and prolegs FROM according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials". Mark roundings at the corners of the sides and supports (Fig. 1a). Set departure saw blade equal to 6 mm and position the longitudinal (parallel) stop at a distance of 35 mm from the disc. Make transverse cuts on the supports and sides, forming shoulders at the roundings.

2. Mark the position of the nests on the sides and supports BUT and also on legs B (Fig. 1 And 1a). Via drilling machine remove most of the material from the pockets using a 19mm Forstner bit and then trim the walls and corners with a chisel. To achieve accuracy when trimming, a simple device - conductors for stripping nests will help.

3. Saw at the ends of the legs IN and prolegs FROM spikes 25 mm long, fitting them to the sockets (Fig. 1b, photo A). Set the blade overhang to 13mm and move the rip fence to cut 152mm wide cutouts on the underside of the legs A (Fig. 1a And photo B). Use a band saw to file roundings on the drawers and supports BUT, leading the canvas next to the marking line. Then, using a sanding block with #150 sandpaper, sand the rounds down to the final outline.

With the 19mm slotted blade raised 10mm above the saw table, cut the tenon into a test cut. Then saw out the spikes at the ends of legs B and legs C.

To prevent support A from touching the longitudinal stop, the spacer fixed on it creates a gap that allows you to freely move the part.

Mounting brackets hold legs B at right angles to legs C, and a spacer prevents their top ends from tilting in or out.

4. Sand all parts with sandpaper No. 220. Then glue the base and make sure there are no distortions (photo C).

Brief advice! Fill the void with a spacer. Cut the spacer the same length as the C prong, excluding the spikes., and it will help to simplify gluing.

Build a Hull

1. Cut out the side D, as well as top/bottom E panels with an allowance of 6 mm in length ("List of materials", rice. one). Prepare slats 19 mm wide for the side F and upper/lower G edge trims, bevel them to the thickness of the cabinet panels and glue them in place. Brief advice! Align trims and panels flush with clamps . Add not how many clamps across the glue line to level the surfaces on both sides.

Press the lower edge of the side wall D/F against the prong and mark its final length along the upper edge of the drawer side A.

2. Use a saw to shorten each of the panels D/F,E,G 3 mm from one end, then, pressing the side panels to the prongs FROM, mark their final length (a photoD) and file according to the marks you have made. Saw in the side panels at the top and bottom of the folds for the top and bottom parts (Fig. 1). Then, on the inside of all panels, make a 10 mm tongue to insert the back wall H. Place the side panels on the base legs A-C, fix with clamps, measure the distance between the folds and file the top and bottom panel along the length, reducing the measured distance by 1 mm. (This will make it easy to insert the case when final assembly.)

For convenient work with clamps, the bottom of the E/G case rests on stands. After the screws are screwed in, the clamps can be removed.

3. Cut out the back wall H and sand all parts of the body with sandpaper No. 220. Glue the body, fixing it with clamps (photo E). Drill pilot holes with a diameter of 2.8 mm, countersink them and fasten the side panels D from top and bottom E (Fig. 1). Cut out the baffle I, glue it in place, aligning it in the middle of the top panel with a 22 mm offset from the front side of the edge trim G, and secure with additional screws.

There should be a lot of boxes

1. For side J, K and front/rear L, M drawer walls, cut the material to a thickness of 12 mm (Fig. 2). File all sides to width and then cut them to their final length, making the sides 25mm shorter than the depth of the cabinet and the front and back 38mm shorter than the width of the openings they will fit into.

2. Saw on the inside of all walls J-M at the bottom edge of the tongue, corresponding to the thickness of the plywood bottoms N, O (Fig. 2). On the inside of the side walls J, K cut 6 mm grooves (Fig. 2a, step 1). Attach a piece of wood to the saw blade and cut out 6mm folds at the ends of the front/back walls. L, M, forming ridges included in the grooves of the side walls (Fig. 2a, step 2).

3. Dry collect the parts of the boxes J-M to determine the dimensions of the bottoms N, O. Saw the bottoms out of 6mm plywood, sand all the details on the inside with #220 sandpaper and glue the drawers together.

4. When the glue is dry, sand the final external surfaces drawers with sandpaper No. 220. To install the sliding rails, slide along the side walls J, K in the middle of their width the center line. Also mark the center lines for the rails on one of the side walls of the bottom case. D— I (Fig. 3). Then turn the case over and place it on the workbench. Divide each set of sliding rails into parts. Attach the drawer (narrow) parts to the side walls of the drawers with screws, aligning on the center line with an indent of 3 mm from the front side (Fig. 2).

Install the sliding rails alternately from top to bottom. Moving to the lowest, do not forget to install them on the partition as well.

5. Cut a spacer out of plywood so wide that the mounting holes for the slide rail placed on the upside down spacer are exactly on the center line above. Fix the guide with two screws, then install the second guide on the opposite wall. File the spacer widthwise to install the second pair of rails. Continue the process to install all guides (a photoF). Turn the cabinet over to its normal position and slide the drawers back into place. After making sure they are installed correctly, finally secure the guides by screwing in the remaining screws.

6. Cut blanks for false panels P, Q drawers with an allowance of about 1 mm in width (Fig. 2). Sawing blanks to the final length. At the same time, the length of the false panels P for wide drawers should be 6 mm less than the internal width of the case, and the length of the false panels Q for smaller drawers 5 mm less than half of this width. Fit the bezels to the drawer fronts as shown in the DIY Tip.

For temporary fastening of false panels P, Q to drawers, screw 4.5×25 mm screws into the mounting holes for the handles.

7. Mark and drill from the back of the false panels P, Q counterbores with mounting holes for pull handles (Figure 2B). Remove all drawers from the case, except for the bottom one. Align the bottom bezel R in the opening by installing spacers 3 mm thick from the bottom and sides, and temporarily attach it with screws to the front wall of the drawer (a photoG). Insert the next drawer into the cabinet and repeat the process to install all the false panels. Screw in 4.5×25 countersunk screws from inside the drawer (Fig. 2), then remove temporary screws. Now separate the false panels from the drawers again, putting appropriate marks on their back side and the front wall of the drawers so as not to confuse them during final assembly after finishing.

8. Remove the drawers from the case D-I and insert the body into the base A-C. Drill and countersink pilot holes, then screw the body to the drawer sides A (Fig. 1).

9. If you are not going to make the top of the cabinet, proceed to steps 3-7 in the next section to make the workbench cover, and then follow steps 4-5 in the Installing Doors and Finishing section to secure the cover and apply finishing coating.

Build the top case

1. Cut out the side walls R and their edging S (Fig. 4). Glue the trims to the front edges of the side walls. Cut out the lid T and two bottoms U. Set one bottom aside temporarily.

2. Cut along the back edge of the side walls R/S, covers T and one bottom U sheet pile 10×10 mm (Fig. 4). Drill holes in the side walls for the shelf supports (Fig. 4a).

3. For upper and lower front V and side W, X finishing trims cut the workpieces in accordance with the total thickness of both bottoms U, and then file them to width. Cut out the front pads V length equal to the length of the cover T and bottoms U, and on the side parts leave a length allowance of about 25 mm.

4. Insert a slotted cutter with a thickness of 6 mm into the collet of the router, adjust the stop for extracting the tongue with a depth of 13 mm and set the overhang of the cutter so that the distance between its blades and the sole of the router is 13 mm. Attach with a clamp flush with the end face of the front pad V 38 mm thick cut and cut a groove in the middle of the end of the part (photo H). Do the same on the second end. To make matching tongues in the side plates W, X, fix the stopper at a distance of 70 mm from the front end of the part. Route the tongue only along the edge, driving the cutter until its bearing touches the stop. Flip the part and widen the tongue (photo I).

Mill a V groove at the end of the front pad, stepping back 13 mm from one side, turn the part over and make a second pass so that the groove is located exactly in the middle.

When processing the side plates W, X, mill the tongue only on the edge, without going to the end. The rounded end of the tongue will be hidden after assembly.

5. Glue the front pads V to lid and bottom U, aligning flush with inside and around the edges. After drying, finish sanding the parts with sandpaper No. 220.

6. File the back ends of the side trims W, X so that their length matches the width of the assembled covers T/V and bottoms U/V. Mill 1.6 and 3 mm wide chamfers in the indicated rice. 4b places. Finish sanding the side plates with #220 sandpaper.

Glue the Y dowels into the grooves of the front pad V, then add the side pads W or X on both sides and secure the gluing with clamps.

7. For dowels Y file a walnut blank 70x180 mm to a thickness corresponding to the width of the grooves and tongues in the overlays V, W, X. Saw the workpiece into dowels 25 mm long and grind 3 mm bevels around one end of each of them. (Fig. 4b). Glue the key into the groove of the front pad V so that it rests on the bottom U. In this case, the key should protrude 5 mm from the front. (a photoJ). Glue the side trim in place W, then repeat these steps on the other side. Glue the side strips in the same way. X to the lid T. Note. Don't use too much glue. Extruded excess will be difficult to clean out of the recess formed by chamfers at the junction of panels and overlays.

8. Cut out the back wall from 19mm plywood Z and make folds on its edges around the entire perimeter, forming a comb inserted into the tongues of the side walls R, covers T and bottoms U. Sand the back and sides with #220 sandpaper.

A spacer the same width as the X side plates will provide a simple and convenient means of aligning the R/S side walls while they are being screwed in place.

9. Lay back wall Z on the workbench with the inner side up. Apply glue to the tongue of one of the side walls R/S and glue it to the back wall. Glue the assembled lid in place T/V/X/Y and secure with screws (photo K). Then glue the second side wall and fasten it with screws to the cover. After that, install the assembled bottom U/V/W/Y, gluing and fastening with screws to both side walls. Finally, glue the second bottom back into place. U, fix it with clamps and let the glue dry (Fig. 4).

Add doors

1. To make box-shaped doors, cut out the side walls AA, the length of which should be 6 mm less than the height of the opening of the upper body R-Z. To determine the length of the top and bottom parts BB, measure the distance between external parties side walls R case, subtract 42 mm and divide the result in half.

2. Note. The doors use tongue-and-groove joints, the same as in drawers. Cut grooves 10x10 mm at the ends of the side walls AA (Fig. 5) and 10mm dowels along the leading edge of all parts AA, BB. Fasten a wooden pad to the longitudinal stop and slide it close to the disc. Saw 10x10mm seams at the ends of the top and bottom pieces BB, forming ridges included in the grooves of the side walls AA.

3. Dry (without glue) assemble the doors to determine the dimensions of the panels SS, as well as the length of the shelves DD and sides HER. Install the saw blade for cross cutting, remove the trim from the stop and cut the panels exactly to size (Fig. 5).

4. Reinstall the 12 mm slot disc and rip fence. Form 10 mm folds around the perimeter of the panels SS to obtain ridges included in the tongues of the door walls AA, BB. If you want to decorate the doors with butterfly inserts and decorative grooves, read the article "Decorative inserts without the slightest gap."

5. Cut out the shelves DD and bumpers HER (Fig. 5). Mark and mill the slots for the lamellas in the side walls AA and the ends of the shelves. With sandpaper No. 220, sand the inside of the walls AA, BB and panel SS, as well as all sides of the shelves and sides. Temporarily set the sides aside.

Place high spacers under the door and lightly fix it with wedges so that it fits exactly into the opening of the case.

6. Place one side wall on the workbench AA inside up. Apply glue to the grooves and insert the combs of the upper and lower parts into them BB. Then glue the panel in place SS. Lubricate the lamellar nests of the side wall and shelves with glue DD, as well as the back edge of the shelf, insert the lamella and glue the shelf in place. Add a second side wall and then use the body as a template to square the build (a photoL). When the glue is completely dry, assemble the second door in the same way. (Keep the shims that the doors rested on. These will be useful for the final fit of the doors.) Sand the outside of the doors with #220 sandpaper and install the handles (Fig. 5).

Door installation and trim

Attach the door to the cabinet using spacers at the top and bottom to ensure the gap is even. Install eight screws before checking the correct operation of the hinge.

1. Cut out the spacers holding the doors open next to the cabinet (photo M). Align each door height between the top X and lower W side panels of the body. Shorten two long piano hinges to a length of 1010 mm. Aligning each hinge with the door and side wall R/S case, fasten each half of the hinge with four screws spaced at regular intervals. Close the doors so they rest on the spacers inside the case. If the doors are installed without distortion and the hinges work smoothly, screw the screws into every other hole in the hinges. The remaining screws will be screwed after finishing.

2. Cut out the stop FF for doors and give it a shape (Fig. 4c). Drill holes for the magnetic latches and push them into place. Place a mark in the middle of the top case width. Press a long ruler against the hinges of the piano hinges and mark the intersection with the center mark. Fasten stop FF in the middle of the body width, aligned with the hinge line (a photoN). Having closed one door, mark on it the installation location of the magnetic latch plate and drill a countersunk recess (Fig. 5a). Do the same with the second door, and then fix the plates in the recesses with screws.

Use a square to align the magnetic latches in line with the hinges. Drill and countersink mounting holes in the stop, then secure it with screws.

3. Taking the previously set aside bumpers HER, glue them to the shelves DD and lower details BB doors (Fig. 5). Cut out interior shelves GG, inserted into the body, and edge pads HH. Glue the lining to the shelves. Once the glue is dry, sand the parts with #220 sandpaper.

4. Remove all fittings and additionally sand with sandpaper No. 220 all the places that need it. Then apply a top coat. (We applied linseed oil three times, sanding each dried layer in between with a 320-grit abrasive pad.) After the last finishing layer has dried thoroughly, reinstall the hardware and screw the remaining screws into the free holes of the piano hinges. Fasten the pull handles to the false panels P, Q, screw the false panels to the drawers, but do not insert the drawers into the lower cabinet yet.

5. Drill mounting holes and slots in the cover E (Fig. 3 And 3a). Having invited an assistant, put the upper case on the base, level it at the back and achieve equality of the side overhangs. Secure the housing with 4.5x40 pan head screws, adding washers. Now you can insert boxes into the lower case. Your wardrobe is ready! It will serve for many years, causing admiring glances from everyone entering the workshop.

The idea itself was spinning in my head for quite some time, but since there was no required material, then it was necessary to constantly postpone its implementation. But after the construction of these shelves and racks, quite a lot of various chipboard cores remained. Actually after that I decided to put together a small box in tool cabinet so that it slides out if necessary, that is, it is on a hinge. Initially, it was an ordinary closet in the apartment, converted over time into a tool cabinet. It would be possible, stupidly to hang it with deep shelves from the far wall, to the very door, and no longer bathe. But deep shelves have one big minus, they become cluttered over time so that it becomes difficult to get to the far corner to get something very necessary. And according to the law of meanness, everything you need, as a rule, lies in the far corner.

Therefore, in this cabinet I decided to simply hang a lot of small and not very deep shelves for a specific tool or material. The pictures below show what came out of it. I hung them in the middle part of the cabinet, mainly for bolts, self-tapping screws and power tools, so that a large pull-out shelf remained under them, and under it there was a compartment for the compressor and paint brushes. Also along the edges of the cabinet, a pair of backlight threads was built in, which turns on when the door is opened.

The photo below shows that after this upgrade, there was an unused void in the middle of the cabinet. Here in this place, I decided to attach a small drawer, thereby increasing the usable area for a variety of instrumental junk.

These are actually chipboard cores from which I will assemble a box.

This is how it looks like in the end. Twisted on ordinary self-tapping screws and iron corners.

It was supposed to take it aside, like an ordinary door. But since this drawer will be located a little deeper, relative to the door frame of the cabinet, it was necessary to build such hinges so that they could be used to pull the drawer out of the cabinet.

Actually, a box already screwed into place. At first glance, everything seems fine, but as soon as you open it, all these loops begin to break. And in the end, this box hung diagonally, and this is given that there was no tool in it yet.

In general, I had to abandon these furniture loops and ask my friends to cook something more powerful. As a result, we got such a loop made of thick sheet iron, round timber, nuts and a corner, on which you can now safely hang yourself, but it will not even bend :-)

Since the entire mass of the tool box will fall on the lower part of this hinge, then in the upper part of the hinge, the corner is made of a thin strip, because the loads there are minimal.

Here you can see a cardboard template by which the dimensions of the hinge were measured so that the box could freely sink into the cabinet.

The base was also cut out of sheet iron, on which the box will rotate.

We transfer the mark of the hole for the pin, from the cardboard template to the sheet of iron and drill it.

After that, we fasten this piece of iron to the base of the box.

At the end, I lightly greased all the rubbing surfaces of this hinge with grease, put this box on the pin of the lower support and secured it by screwing the upper edge of the hinge to the box. On this powerful hinge, the box is now easily and effortlessly rotated with one finger.

On the back side of this box, I screwed fragments of galvanized strips that act as spring-loaded holders, holding an oversized tool in the form of a variety of hacksaws for wood and metal.

A little video in which this box in action.

Unfortunately, I have not yet begun to finally settle in this box, embedding various cups and cells for open-end wrenches, screwdrivers, drills, hammers and other tools into it, because the way to open this box has grown dissatisfied with time. The idea itself is not bad, but only if the door opens rarely or automatically. And so, with some minor repairs in the apartment, sometimes you have to poke into this closet a dozen times and waste precious time pulling a drawer out of it :-) Now we plan to move this drawer to the door so that when only one door is opened, the whole instrument would be at a glance, that is, in one movement of the hand. But for this it is necessary to change the door itself, since this one is very old, loose (chipboard), slightly curved and with weak hinges.

Tools are available in every home. Especially if there is a man in it who loves and knows how to make something with his own hands. Some ask the question: Why you need a tool cabinet because they can be put anywhere? But this question is asked by people who do not want or do not know how to make various things at home. House master knows that a tool cabinet is a must.

Hammer, screwdriver and pliers, which are often used for elementary work, can be placed anywhere. But for a large number of tools, a good and convenient cabinet is required. It should fit the entire instrument and, moreover, not take up too much space. For these purposes, cabinets, bedside tables, chests are fitted. You can, of course, use all of this. On the tool storage cabinet quite easy to do. Every home master can do this.

So, how to organize a tool cabinet

Exists a good option such furniture, which is a wardrobe with two wings. The doors swing open, and in the middle part of the cabinet there is a folding table. In the cabinet, you can mount a separate lighting. When closed, it takes up very little space, so it can be installed in a small city apartment. The easiest way to make such a cabinet is from wood.

To do wooden tool cabinet, will need:

pine boards (thickness 20-25 mm);
plywood (thickness 10-12 mm);
wooden bars (section 40X40 mm, or 50X50 mm);
hacksaw, hammer, nails (30-60 mm), screws (30-60 mm).
metal corners (100-150 mm and 80 mm);
hinges (120 mm) and other fittings.

Before you start making a cabinet, you need to decide on its location in the house, with dimensions. For example, there is free space. Two meters along the wall. If the central part of the cabinet is 100 cm wide, then the doors should be 50 cm each. When opened, they will occupy these 2 meters of free space. The height, for example, will also be 2 meters.

It turns out, as it were, three identical rectangular boxes. Now the task is to attach the sashes on hinges or hinges to the central part so that they open and close with ease. But before you do this, you need to fix the central part of the product on the wall. Here, high-quality fasteners are important, since, given that the table will recline in the closet, there will be a large load. You need to fasten directly to the wall using metal corners. The corners are attached to the boards. Holes are pre-drilled in the wall into which the chopsticks are hammered.

After the central part of the product is fixed, you can mount the table. It is a wooden board that hinges down to the bottom of the cabinet. From below, on a table-top, 1 or 2 folding legs are fixed. Also on hinges. Hinges can be used for door hinges. But they must be sufficiently massive and fixed firmly. The table should not be too large so as not to increase the load on the cabinet.

Tool holder

Now you need to provide for mounting tools. Of course, that all heavy tools should be located in the central part, which is securely fixed to the wall. You can make shelves, hinges, other fixtures. In the doors, as moving parts, lighter things are located. For example, metal or plastic boxes with various small things can be fixed on them. Nails, bolts, etc.

Lighting installation

Of course, you can also install a portable table lamp with a clothespin mount. But it is much better to have separate lighting for such a cabinet. You can also provide an outlet located so that you can conveniently turn on the power tool there. You can even draw a separate line from the electrical distribution panel. The line must be connected via an emergency shutdown switch.

Here you go, tool cabinet ready. It remains only to pay attention to the exterior finish, so that when closed it fits into the interior of the room. And he fit in well. Don't forget about the door handles. If there are small children in the house, a latch or lock can be provided.

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