Norms

How to make a uterine mount in the ceiling of the bath. We make the ceiling in the bath - hemming, flooring and panel options

One of the most crucial moments in the construction of a bath is the creation of a ceiling. Not only the comfort in this room, but also the service life of the entire building will depend on how correctly and efficiently you do it.

To create a ceiling needs to be correct, such an indicator as the height of the room is also important. Despite the fact that for the construction of the ceiling in the bath it is necessary to have certain knowledge and skills, anyone can do these works with their own hands. House master.

A feature of the washing and rest rooms in the bath is that although in these rooms and high humidity, but air temperature is low, in comparison with the steam room, therefore, for finishing the ceiling, one of the best options is plastic lining.

Main advantages plastic lining:

such panels do not require additional treatment with antiseptics;
they have the correct geometric shape;
light weight;
there are various color solutions;
after installing such a lining, it is not necessary to periodically paint it, as is the case with wooden materials;
do not rot;
low cost, which allows you to save money.

In case of use plastic panels, them installation is the final stage of finishing work.

In the washing room, water enters both the walls and the ceiling; plastic panels, due to their tight fit to each other, reliably protect against moisture ingress.

Installation of plastic lining on the ceiling of the washing carried out after the device and the draft ceiling, in the following sequence:

When using glossy panels, please note that they are very easily damaged, so The protective film must be removed from them at the very last moment.

To prevent sagging of plastic panels, the distance between the beams or laths of the crate should be no more than 60 cm.

Usually the length of the panels is 6 meters, which greatly complicates their transportation. Experts recommend immediately determining the required length and cutting the panels in the store.

For a washing room and for a rest room in a bathhouse, it is better to choose seamless panels, since in the presence of a decorative seam, moisture and dirt will accumulate in it, which spoils appearance ceiling.

Caring for such a coating is very simple, but it is best to use gentle detergents. The color of the panels is recommended to choose a calm, this will allow you to better relax and unwind, it is better not to use contrasting solutions in the bath.

Plastic panels have good thermal insulation characteristics, as they have a cellular structure, in addition, a large number of partitions make them quite durable.

Since plastic does not let steam through, it is necessary to provide good ventilation in the room so that the ceiling and walls can dry out normally.

The device of the ceiling in the steam room

The steam room is the smallest room in the bath, but due to the fact that it has high temperature and humidity, the requirements for the ceiling will be high. Making mistakes when creating the ceiling in the steam room not only reduces the comfort of visiting the bath, but can also lead to rapid damage to the building and you will have to make repairs.

The choice of material for sheathing

For sheathing the ceiling in the steam room wooden lining is used. Usually the one made from conifers is not used, since when heated, resin can be released from it, so they use panels from alder, aspen, linden, but oak or ash is best suited.

Instead of lining, you can use grooved boards, since there is practically no difference between them. But still, it is better to use a lining that has a non-linear surface, and during its drying, a gap will not form on the ceiling, as when using boards.

The width of the lining should be 9-10 cm, if the slats are narrower, then they will take longer to mount, and if wider, then they warp and crack more.

If there is a rough floor in the attic, then the lining can be taken from 12 mm thick, if it is not, then its thickness should be from 18 mm. To create a flat ceiling, it is necessary to take a lining with a thickness of 25 mm, since it will be subjected to a large load.

The differences between ordinary lining and the euro is that the latter has longitudinal grooves on the inside to improve ventilation, and its surface is smoother, so if funds allow, then it is better to buy eurolining for the ceiling in the bath.

Since the cost of eurolining is higher, then the geometry of the strips must be strictly observed, there should be no knots on the panels, you should pay attention to this when buying it.

Well, when there is an opportunity in the warehouse to check if the lining has led, for this you need to dock two planks, if this happens freely and without gaps, then everything is fine.

Mounting

There are three types of ceiling: floor, panel, hemmed.

Consider how to make a log house in a hemmed way:

Floor beams are treated with a protective compound.
Given the location of the stove-heater, a metal passage box for the chimney is mounted between the beams.
Attach foil or hydro-vapor barrier membrane to the underside of the beams with a construction stapler, leaving wall overlap 30 cm, between themselves, the foil is glued with aluminum tape.
If the distance between the beams is large, then you need to additionally make a crate and already mount the lining on it, the crate is made with a beam of 20 by 40 mm in increments of 400 mm.
Carry out the installation of lining, fastened with screws or nails, but kleimers can also be used. When using nails, they can be hammered into the front part, into a tenon or groove. In the first case, the hats will be visible, and in the second and third, the fastening is invisible.
From the side of the attic between lags(mineral stone wool, expanded clay or clay with straw)
We close the heater with a hydro-barrier(diffuse membrane), it will protect the insulation from moisture from above and freely release water vapor from the bottom.
Laying attic floor boards.

When fixing the planks through the front part, the hats are visible, but the fastening is reliable, the fixation through the spike or groove is imperceptible, but a small part of the board is captured, therefore, when the lining is expanded, it is likely that it will turn out or tear off.

When fastening with nails, there is a possibility that the panel may burst, this is especially unpleasant when expensive material is used. To avoid this, it is recommended to first drill a hole, and then fix the bar with nails, although this is longer, but the material does not crack.

For fixing in the face, finishing nails are used, since they have a small hat. The attachment points are covered with putty, to which wood dust is added, and after it dries, this place is polished.

Required Tools

To finish the ceiling in the bath, you will need the following tools and materials:

lining, which can be plastic or wooden;
vapor barrier;
insulation;
waterproofing;
stapler;
electric drill;
screwdriver;
a hammer;
doboynik,
mallet;
wooden block;
building level.

How to install a pipe in a bath through the ceiling?

The place where the pipe passes through the ceiling must be determined at the time of design. When marking the hole, it must be taken into account that it corresponds to the vertical axis of the pipe. From the edge of the pipe, the ceiling beams should be at least 130 mm.

The gap that exists between the chimney and the ceiling must be insulated, for this you can use asbestos, basalt wool or fiberglass.

The thickness of this layer should be not less than 50 mm so that the insulation does not fall, the bottom of the hole around the pipe is hemmed with a sheet of stainless metal.

It is not recommended to hem a hole around the pipe with galvanized iron, since when it is heated, harmful substances will be released.

If you are finishing the ceiling in the steam room, washing department and rest room with your own hands and doing it for the first time, then to get good result, the following expert advice should be taken into account:

all Finishing work in the bath you need to start from the floor, then make the ceiling and only then sheathe the walls;
when creating a false ceiling, the attic space can be used for storing and drying brooms, but for this, provide for a hatch and a retractable ladder;

when installing the first lining panel, you need to be very careful, since the laying of all other elements depends on it;

in order not to damage the panels, it is necessary to use a mallet and a wooden block, which will help to evenly distribute the shock load created;

if the distance between the beams is up to 60 cm, then you can attach the lining directly to them, in other cases you will have to make a crate.

Conclusion

In the bath, the ceiling is the most vulnerable place, as it leaves maximum amount heat. To prevent this, you need to properly for the steam room it is wooden, and for the washing and rest rooms it is plastic lining.

All installation work is carried out carefully and carefully, then you can independently carry out high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling and make it beautiful, safe and durable.

Useful video

Installation of lining in the steam room, video:

In contact with

Even the good old school course in the basics of physics convincingly proved that when heated, the air rushes up and that its main losses occur through the upper ceilings. It is in the bath that heat leakage is highly undesirable, its unreasonable consumption affects operating costs. In addition to heat, the upper floor is constantly affected by wet fumes, due to which the structures require periodic repairs. This means that the ceiling in the bath should be equipped with special care, must retain heat, practically do not react to moisture, do not collect condensate and please the owners with strength and accuracy.

The traditional, most technologically advanced and easy-to-process material for the ceiling in the bath is wood. It is also good for health, and it easily transfers the onslaught of hot steam, does not deform and does not collect condensate. The optimal choice is a tongue-and-groove board made of aspen that does not emit resinous volatile components. To increase insulation and facilitate work, the grooved elements are equipped with profile recesses and ridges of the tongue and groove type. It is possible to replace aspen lumber with spruce; it is recommended to refuse from excessively resinous pine.

The video will acquaint you with the rules for choosing material for the construction of bath structures:

To begin with, let's decide on the priority type of construction of the bath ceiling.

Types of ceilings for bath structures

In the list of listed tasks, the solution of all items is available to the most complex expensive structures with a multilayer structure. However, there are economical options for the implementation of which you need a minimum of funds and labor efforts. The owner will lay the foundation for money or priorities for exploitation, he chooses for himself. And we will describe in detail how to make a ceiling in a bath, focusing on design features facilities, budgetary opportunities and labor costs.

Inexpensive false ceiling

The basis for its construction are wooden beams, from which the ceiling is made. All other components of the multilayer cake are attached to them on both sides. From the side of the interior, the ceiling is sheathed with tongue-and-groove or edged board. From above, in a kind of pallets formed between the beams and the sheathing, first a vapor barrier layer is laid, then a heater is laid and covered with a waterproofing film. At the end, from the side of the attic, flooring is made of edged or unedged boards.

Note. It is recommended to install a double layer of vapor barrier over steam rooms and washrooms.

The generally recognized advantages of false ceilings are:

simplicity of design, the installation of a bath ceiling according to this scheme can be performed by a home master without special carpentry skills;
the ability to use the attic space, move along the upper flooring without fear of damaging the insulating layers;
maintainability, the ability to change a failed component at any time.

There are disadvantages - this is the use of high-quality expensive materials: boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm with a length sufficient to fully cover the span between the bearing walls.

It can be called a “lightweight” analogue of a hemmed construction with a reduced number of layers. It consists of boards joined together, the ends of which can only be supported by bearing walls. After rolling, the gaps between the boards are sealed with clay from the side of the attic or the ceiling is completely covered with a layer of crumpled clay of 1.50-2.00 cm. From above, the flooring is covered with a layer of vapor barrier, followed by a layer of insulation.

If the owner decides to use expanded clay as a heater, moistened cement mortar sawdust or a mixture of peat and earth, before laying the vapor barrier film, it will be necessary to make a copy of a small fence around the perimeter. The laid layers are covered with a croaker with an approximate step of half a meter.

Regardless of the fundamental differences in the structure, the height of the ceiling in the bath is determined by the position of the upper shelf. In a sitting position, a person should not touch the ceiling plane with his head. With slight deviations, the height value usually varies around the standard mark of 2.20 meters.

The advantages of this option are:

This is the simplest ceiling - the owners will be able to build an elementary structure with their own hands without helpers and without experience in construction.
The device will require a minimum of not the most expensive materials.
Installation takes a minimum of time.

The disadvantages are the prohibition of people moving around the attic, suitable only for storing bath brooms. The repair process will also be very difficult, as the insulating "layers" will inevitably be damaged.

The floor version is used mainly for arranging compact jars with one or gable roof no attic. The flooring can only rest on load-bearing walls. An internal partition cannot be used as a support if it is not a main wall between the steam room and the rest room. There can be no more than 2.5 meters between the supports, since under the influence of gravity the boards will corny “sag”.

Panel ceiling and its specifics

Most labor effort will require a panel type of ceiling structure. It is assembled from panel elements, each of which is made separately. The finished panel resembles a pallet with insulating layers and layers laid in it. Since the component of the panel ceiling turns out to be quite weighty and it is difficult to lift it up, all layers do not fit into it initially.

Panel ceiling assembly

Work order:

Before mounting the panels on the walls of the bath, at the points of contact with the timber, a sealant is laid. 5 cm of the panel should rest on the beam, 10 cm of the beam is left for the device truss system.
When installing panels between them, due to the presence of laps, a "pocket" should form. A vapor barrier layer and insulation are laid in it. The panels are not connected with ties, the ends resting on the beams are not nailed. To connect them, cross-laid boards are used.
Heat-insulating material is placed in shields with vapor barrier installed tightly to each other. Most often it is mineral or glass wool.
Equipped with insulation "boxes" are fixed with the help of transverse boards. The starting board should cover the entire width of the ceiling. Nail the transverse boards to the bars of the panel boards.
Next, you can nail a few short transverse boards, then again a long board. This interleaving also contributes to savings by reducing the consumption of long lumber.
The joint lines are closed with overhead boards.

The ceiling assembled from panels is ready, but most often the work does not end there. If not very presentable remains were used to make the shields, the interior of the bath ceiling will be required. But it will need to be done after the modernization of the truss system.

Changes in the truss structure

According to precisely verified dimensions in the rafters, it is necessary to choose angular recesses so that the leg can lean on the upper crown. The recesses made will somewhat reduce the bearing capacity of the roofing system. Reinforcement will be required by installing two vertical pillars with a horizontal crossbar. To install the support bar, it will be necessary to cut a notch and install a support in it. The rafter legs will need to be attached with capercaillie screws to the upper lintel and to the crown in the area of the sawn corner. Screws fix the point of intersection of the crossbar and the support, and the intersection of the crossbar and the rafter leg.

Three ways to install a bath ceiling are distinguished by technology, load-bearing capacity, and the cost of lumber. The owner of a small family bathhouse with a shed roof is likely to be satisfied with a simple flooring. But the owner of a solid bath facility has a choice: hemming and panel type. The first variety will help save effort and time, the second - financial investments.

When designing a bath, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of operation. These include high humidity, a sharp temperature drop and a high coefficient of thermal insulation of the materials used. Most often, problems arise when trying to make a ceiling in the bath with your own hands. A step-by-step guide with photos and videos will allow you to perform work efficiently and in accordance with applicable requirements.

Rules for arranging the ceiling in the bath

First you need to familiarize yourself with the microclimate in the steam room and dressing room. In the first case, the surface of the walls and ceiling is affected high temperatures and the humidity level can reach 80%. These conditions place special demands on the materials used.

Based on this, it is possible to form the basic requirements for the materials and construction of the ceiling in the bath:

Minimum coefficient of thermal expansion. Between layers of protective or decorative material no gaps should appear.
Providing thermal insulation. This is especially true for the steam room, where temperature regime should not change due to heat loss.
Ventilation. It is necessary for the flow fresh air and humidity control.
Fire safety. Flame retardant coating must not be used. The exception is wood paneling. But it is also pre-treated with special compounds.

Material selection

The arrangement of the ceiling directly depends on its design. It can consist of wooden rafters with two layers boardwalk or be a reinforced concrete floor. For each option, an individual scheme and coating materials are selected.

Most often do wooden floor. It should consist of the following layers, starting from the inner.

Clean lining.
Ventilation gap.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation.
Second ventilation gap.
Plank covering attic.

For the proper arrangement of the ceiling in the bath, it is necessary to select the appropriate materials.

Fine lining of the steam room and dressing room

Despite the emergence of new decorative and protective linings, more often the choice is stopped at wooden clapboard or board. They have optimal performance characteristics, after treatment with fire retardants, the risk of fire is reduced, subject to the manufacturing technology, thermal expansion and moisture absorption are minimal.

Reliable tongue-and-groove connection compensates for thermal expansion and does not affect the insulating properties of the layer.
Air channels to remove moisture reduce the chance of wood swelling.
Good appearance.
Ease of installation and replacement of individual elements.

thermal insulation

The most important component of arranging the ceiling in the bath. Immediately abandon polymer insulation- expanded polystyrene, polystyrene and polyurethane. Despite the affordable cost and ease of installation, they lose their properties under the influence of high temperatures and are combustible materials. In addition, the lack of a vapor-permeable effect will cause moisture concentration on the wood flooring.

fireproof effect. Can withstand temperatures up to +1100°C.
The best indicators of thermal insulation.
Ease of installation.
Flexibility. After strong compression, it restores its original shape. It is convenient for installation.
Passes water vapor, but at the same time the coefficient of absorption is minimal.

Work order

Before starting the process of arranging the roof, you need to develop a scheme for installing materials. To do this, you need to take standard drawings and adapt them according to the properties of the bath room. The diagram shows the recommended dimensions of the ventilation gaps and the heat-insulating layer.

The sequence of work.

Bars are mounted on the beams to fix the insulation. If the distance between them is large, an additional crate is made.
Installation of lining. When connecting the boards, compensation gaps must be left. The distance from the lining to the bars should be 12-14 mm.
Installation of vapor barrier film. The joints are overlapped with adhesive tape.
Heater installation. Its thickness should be 50-100 mm. The presence of gaps is unacceptable.
Installation of waterproofing film.
Arrangement of wooden flooring in the attic.

The minimum height from floor to ceiling must be 2200 mm. Ventilation ducts must be made, special sleeves are mounted in the places where the chimney pipes pass, protecting the wood and the heat insulator from high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath: step by step guide, Photo and video

A step-by-step guide that will help you properly build the bath ceiling, insulate it and select all the materials. Photo and video.

How to make a ceiling in the bath with your own hands correctly

bathroom ceiling photo

The erection of a hygienic building on suburban area- a responsible event, the implementation of which must take into account many related nuances. Most of them relate to the operation of the bath. A small room is exposed to high humidity, frequent temperature adjustments over a wide range. All this puts forward special requirements for the bath design.

It is important to know not only how to build the “box” itself, but also how to make the ceiling in the bath so that it can cope with extreme loads. Beginners will come in very handy step-by-step instruction, it will be appropriate for professional architects. This article is devoted to this.

The main requirements for the ceiling in the steam room

"Layer" ceiling scheme

There are several types of ceiling zone for the bath - each of them will be considered in today's material. Whichever option you choose, keep in mind that the requirements remain the same:

All ceilings are massive solutions, especially when they are used as an attic, utility room or utility room. The key requirement for such structures is high structural reliability, the ability to withstand operational loads.

Floor beams of the future bath

Water procedures and high temperature are useful for human health only in those cases when an optimal microclimate is formed inside. It is important to consider that it is through the ceiling in the bath that the lion's share of heat "leaves". In the context, it is necessary to provide this zone with reliable thermal insulation.

Graph of humidity versus temperature in different baths

Structural elements and materials must be resistant to high temperature, dampness. But what if wood is traditionally used for the construction of hygienic buildings? In this case, it is necessary to treat the surface of the products with impregnations and specialized protective compounds, flame retardants.

For a bath, high humidity is an invariable attribute, because without it, the benefits of water procedures are zero. In the context of this, load-bearing elements and constructive solutions are protected by vapor and waterproofing. The steam must have a free exit to the surrounding atmosphere.

Do not forget about the aesthetic aspect of the bath ceiling. If everything is done beautifully and comfortably, then the pleasure of spending time increases at times. Not in vain, experienced architects consider decorative elements to be the “calling card” not only of the building, but also of its owners. The design of the bath ceiling can be panel, floor or hemmed. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

false ceiling

In domestic open spaces, it is the hemmed ceiling of the bath that is most often found. Its design is intuitive, simple, reliable and conforms to all known standards. Installation begins with the installation of floor beams. It is on them that other elements and details will subsequently be installed. In this case, there are no restrictions on the size of the room.

false ceiling in the bath

It is very important to adhere to the design documentation, including in terms of installing floor beams (keep a certain step between the logs, use a material of a given diameter). Thanks to this approach, the ceiling device in the bath becomes a full-fledged interfloor ceiling with a lot of useful features.

Figure 7 shows a schematic representation of a false ceiling.

Scheme of false ceiling

The walls of the building (in most cases, capital from natural wood).
Thoroughly fixed and insulated beams.
Hemming boards for the ceiling.
Waterproofing layer (heat loss can be leveled by using a foil layer of a waterproof membrane).
The space between the beams is filled with thermal insulation.
Vapor permeable membrane.
Attic floor.

The construction of the above structure implies the presence of a large amount of lumber and "free hands", due to the laboriousness of the event.

Installation work

So, a step-by-step guide to creating a ceiling in the bath with your own hands:

Floor beams are necessarily treated with flame retardants and other impregnations. With special care they “walk” along the edges of the tree. It makes sense to apply the primer in several layers.

Floor beams treated with protective compounds

For those steam rooms where it is planned to install a stove-heater, it is necessary to determine the area for installing the chimney. Between the 2 beams there are several jumpers, through which a small square is formed. A metal passage box is mounted in the made rectangular one.

note! It is very important to achieve a match between the hole and the purchased metal product..

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath is formed with a hydro- and vapor barrier membrane. It is positioned in such a way that the protective layer forms a difficult overlap of 20 cm.

Hydro and vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath

The construction of a ceiling structure cannot be imagined without filing the boards. Professionals advise using 3rd grade material for this purpose, through which you can form a base for an insulating layer. At the bottom, the design will have a slightly different look.

Hemming planks to the ceiling

After completing the sheathing, you can insert the box under the smoke exhaust pipe, and then fix the product at the ceiling.

The next step is the installation of insulation. Some experts advise to hem the bottom row of boards, and already lay hydro and vapor barrier on them. But if you do this, then from the bottom of the floor beams they remain completely unprotected from moisture, which traditionally rises from below. Whatever the vapor barrier is made of, the beam always remains wet, even when the steam room is not used.

Incorrect position of the waterproofing film

Such a ceiling zone “will not work out” its resource, since the filing in any case comes into contact with steam. The intensity of the processes of decay increases significantly. Naturally, the strength of the ceiling is reduced to a minimum and in this case it is impossible to do without expensive repairs.

The optimal insulation in the case of a bath is stone or mineral wool. These materials are absolutely safe for human health. In addition, they are not subject to fire. The mats are laid in such a way that they are as close as possible to the beams, without the slightest hint of gaps.

Dedovskaya "method of ceiling insulation

The rapid progress did not affect the popularity of the "grandfather" approaches to the insulation of the ceiling zone in the steam room . Do-it-yourself baths are built mainly from a log house, while residual products in the form of sawdust and small chips are certainly formed. In essence, it is a wonderful heater.

The traditional way to use them is to fill the small particles into the empty space between adjacent beam structures. Real professionals supplement crushed sawdust with clay or cement. The operation is quite simple in nature, but the phased plan must be carried out in strict sequence.

A lining is sewn at the bottom of the ceiling. A waterproofing layer is laid in the space between the beams.

hemming lining to the ceiling

A duct is installed under the chimney with a pipe.

Chimney box

The space between the base of the beams is filled with a wet mortar (having previously provided reliable protection of wooden surfaces from a liquid consistency). At the top of the beams must necessarily remain open.

Dry mortar between beams

When answering the question of how to properly make a ceiling in a bath, you should not miss such an important aspect as sealing gaps and crevices with construction foam. This eliminates the likelihood of the formation of unwanted cold bridges.

The next step is the preparation of the insulating consistency. For 1.5 dm3 of dry cement, at least 2 buckets of sawdust (necessarily dry) are added.

The optimal volume of water is added to the composition, while it is necessary to do this in such a way that the composition is not liquid. In the hands (with a slight physical impact) there should be a small lump in which there is no water.

A construction mixer kneads the mixture (if we are talking about small volumes), which fills the space between adjacent beams.

Cement mortar for bath roof

An even layer of solution is formed. For high-quality insulation of the ceiling, it is necessary to fill the space with the composition to the level of the cutoff of the beams (thickness from 10 to 15 cm). The composition is given some time to set and finally dry.

Thus, the ceiling is created in the bath with your own hands - the technology is simple, but very effective. Regardless of the choice of insulation, it is mandatory to fix on the surface of the beams diffusion membrane, which is capable of passing steam. Structurally, it is designed in such a way that the penetration of water vapor from above is excluded in principle, while it can freely move in the direction from bottom to top.

Experts state that the ventilation implemented in this way eliminates the risk of accumulation of the slightest condensate on the surface of the material. Insulating characteristics remain unchanged during the entire period of operation of the ceiling. At the final stage, plank flooring is created in the attic, if such is provided for by the layout.

Hemming ceilings in most cases are complemented by full-fledged floors. After that, the building can be absolutely free and safe to use.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath: a step-by-step guide, professional advice

photo of the ceiling in the bath

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath

A bath is a room with a certain and rather serious functional load. Therefore, all elements in it play an important role. The importance of the correct construction of the ceiling, which performs not only decorative and delimiting functions, cannot be underestimated. Let's dwell on the topic of the bath ceiling in more detail.

How to start arranging the ceiling in the bath?

Before proceeding directly to work on the construction of the ceiling in the bath, it is necessary to draw up a project. This will help reduce the risk of errors and make sure that the finished design will meet the requirements for it.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath photo

provide thermal insulation of the bath;
have an aesthetic appearance;
do not give fumes that will spoil the impression of bath procedures;
be durable;
prevent the thermal insulation layer from getting wet.

The first thing you need to decide when drawing up a project is at what height the ceiling should be located. When calculating the height of the ceiling, they usually rely on the following data:

growth itself tall man in your family;
a person sitting on the topmost shelf should not touch the ceiling;
to what height the hand of the person who will soar will rise with a broom.

For wooden baths they also add 0.15 m to the obtained ceiling height to take into account the shrinkage of the structure. In most cases, a steam room height of 2.5 m is suitable for a bath.

The traditional material for arranging a bath is wood. The ceiling is no exception. Ceiling beams, attic flooring (if any), as well as ceiling cladding are made of wood. Only in the first two cases, conifers are used, which have excellent moisture resistance. But the ceiling lining is best made from hardwoods such as aspen or linden.

This is due to the fact that the low resin content increases sound insulation and heat resistance and reduces the thermal conductivity of the material. In addition, the resins in the cladding will melt and drain for the first time, which will bring inconvenience to attendants.

In any case, all wooden elements should not have defects, be well dried and impregnated with a special antiseptic composition.

As a vapor barrier, it is allowed to use a dense polyethylene film, aluminum foil. Sometimes, to protect the insulation from the action of steam from the bath, cardboard is used, which is pre-treated with drying oil, but this is not the best solution, as this material is very quickly exposed to mold.

The modern construction market offers, for example, isospan or penoplex, as a vapor barrier, when laying which you must follow the instructions.

It is impossible to imagine a bath ceiling without a layer of insulation. There are many options here. Insulation can be of natural or artificial origin.

Since ancient times, the ceiling of the bath has been insulated clay, earth, sawdust, sand or a combination of several of the listed materials. This technology is used to this day in some baths, because many people care about the environmental friendliness of the building, especially the steam room. Most often, clay mixed with straw is used.

Ceiling insulation with sawdust

But each of the natural heaters has its own significant disadvantages:

sawdust in the insulation layer often causes a fire in the bath or intensifies the fire;
sand sooner or later begins to fall on the head of the attendants;
microorganisms multiply in the ground after a short period of time, which can harm bath visitors;
clay insulation is a rather laborious process.

Bath ceilings are used as artificial heaters mineral wool, penoizol and polystyrene.

2. Mineral wool is one of the most common materials used to insulate the bath ceiling.

This is due to its benefits, including:

ease of installation;
low price;
mineral wool cannot cause a fire;
this material is not a breeding ground for microbes and a nesting site for rodents and insects.

However, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties when wet. Its ability to retain heat also decreases with time as a result of an increase in density. For the same reason, it is important not to crush the mineral wool during installation.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath

This material is produced in the form of layers or rolls.

Note! If mineral wool is used for insulation in particularly cold areas, then it is spread out in several layers.

2. Styrofoam is another popular insulating material.

This is due to its light weight and low cost, as well as a number of other positive qualities:

good sound and heat insulation;
waterproof;
microorganisms, including mold fungi, do not multiply in it.

The disadvantage of polystyrene is its fragility, easy flammability, as well as the release of gases that paralyze the respiratory system as a result of combustion.

This material is sold in the form of sheets. The thickness of the foam layer for insulating the ceiling in the bath should be 50-100 mm. To fasten the plates together and with the base, dowels, a thick cement mortar or special adhesive compositions are used.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with foam

3. An alternative to foam is penoizol. It is also called urea foam. It is a liquid substance that is sprayed onto the surface. This allows you to carefully fill all the cracks. Penoizol is an inexpensive material, and its thermal insulation properties are higher than those of classic foam plastic and mineral wool.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with penoizol

4. Along with mineral wool, expanded clay is the most popular. Its essential advantage is its natural origin. For insulation of ceilings, granules with a fraction of 5-40 mm are used.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with expanded clay

This material is environmentally friendly, non-combustible, has high noise and heat insulating properties. However, when using it, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances:

since expanded clay is hygroscopic, it is necessary to take care of steam and waterproofing;
the height of the expanded clay layer should be on average 0.2 m.

Note! Insulation of the space around the stove pipe is best done with expanded clay or mineral wool. In the latter case, the pipe must first be closed with sheet asbestos.

The choice of insulation depends not only on your preferences, but also on the way the ceiling is laid in the bath.

Bath ceiling options

To date, there are three ways to lay the ceiling in the bath:

flooring - the easiest method;
hemmed - high-quality and not very expensive ceiling;
when installing a panel ceiling, the help of 1-2 people is required, but such a ceiling system is very reliable and durable.

Bath ceiling

Step 1. At the first stage, boards 50 mm wide are laid on the ceiling from the side of the room. They should be laid very tightly, without gaps, and rest and fasten their edges to the wall of the bath.

Step 2. A layer of vapor barrier is spread on a wooden base with an overlap on the walls of the bath. If expanded clay serves as a heat-insulating material, then along the perimeter of the ceiling from the side of the roof, boards are made.

Step 3. A heater is laid on the vapor barrier. For this method, mineral wool or expanded clay is more often used.

This type of ceiling is only suitable for big baths without an attic: the width of the walls should not exceed 250 cm. Another disadvantage is the insecurity of thermal insulation from external moisture. And when replacing floor boards, the layers of vapor and thermal insulation are violated.

Hemming ceiling system

Such a ceiling, although it requires more time and money, is more reliable. At the same time, its construction is easy to produce on its own.

Step 1. Bearing beams with a section of 5 cm by 15 cm are mounted on the walls of the bath. It is also necessary to create a frame of beams around the chimney. To do this, in small beams, which are laid across the main longitudinal ones, grooves are cut out for the main beams. The frame is a square with a side length of about 380 mm

Step 2. From the inside, the ceiling is lined with eurolining or tongue and groove. When mounting the sheathing to the beams, it is better to place the fasteners not in the central part of the boards, but in the grooves.

false ceiling in the bath

Step 3. A vapor barrier is laid on the skin and fixed to the beams with a stapler. The insulation must necessarily go onto the walls by 15 cm. If you have to use several vapor barrier sheets, then the edge of one must go over another sheet for 20 cm. The joints are fastened with an aluminum film on an adhesive basis.

Step 4. Insert thermal insulation between the beams, for example, mineral wool, expanded clay and foam. If you use the latter, then the space around the chimney is covered with expanded clay. When laying mineral wool, they cut it strictly to size and try not to crush it so that this insulation does not lose its properties.

Step 5. The heat-insulating layer is covered with waterproofing, which can also be aluminum foil, polyethylene film, etc.

Step 6 Lay on top of the flooring from the boards, which are fastened with nails with a wide hat to the supporting beams.

Hemming ceiling system

If mineral wool or polystyrene is used as a heater, then the false ceiling can be assembled in the opposite direction: first, beams are installed, external flooring is attached to them, insulation is laid between the beams, a vapor barrier is attached to the beams with a stapler, then slats are mounted to the beams, on which they are fixed sheathing.

Such a ceiling is an excellent option for baths with an attic.

panel ceiling

From the name you can guess that this type of ceiling is assembled from panels. They are prepared in advance according to the scheme described below.

Step 1. Lay two beams at a distance of half a meter from each other. They must be strictly parallel. Their edges rest against the rail.

Step 2. Boards 60 cm long, tightly lying to each other, are nailed across to the beams.

Step 3. The design is turned over. It turns out a kind of box, which is lined with vapor barrier from the inside and fixed with a stapler.

You can assemble the panels completely, but it is better to stop at this stage, which will facilitate the transportation and installation of the panels.

Note! To protect the panels from distortion of the geometry during movement on the side free from boards, the slats should be nailed diagonally.

The installation of the panels can be described step by step as follows.

Step 1. A tourniquet is laid on the walls of the bath. It should also be laid on the beams if the installation will be carried out on them.

Step 2 Lay the panels one after the other.

Step 3. They put a layer of thermal insulation in them, which is covered with waterproofing.

Step 4. The space between the panels is filled with a moisture-resistant heat-insulating material, for example, felt with a layer of foil.

Step 5. From above, the panels are closed with a flooring of boards, which simultaneously connects the shields to each other.

Step 6. With inside the ceiling is decorated with clapboard.

This option has only one advantage - the ability to use cutting boards. Otherwise, it is much more difficult and impossible to install such a structure by one person. Therefore, experts recommend staying on a false ceiling.

In rare cases, lighting is installed on the ceiling in the bath. In the steam room, heat-resistant lamps are necessarily used. Under no circumstances should energy-saving or fluorescent lamps be used. It is best to use traditional incandescent lamps. The lamps are covered with wooden gratings that protect from contact with the lamp. But it is preferable to install lighting under the ceiling, for example, in the corners.

At this stage, the installation of the ceiling in the bath is considered complete.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath

Find out how you can install the ceiling in the bath on your own. Types of thermal insulation options for ceiling construction. Photo + Video.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath: a step-by-step guide

Special requirements are imposed on the installation of a bath ceiling, because it works in conditions of constant changes in temperature and humidity. From him correct installation not only the heating time of the bath depends, but also the life of the entire structure. How to make a ceiling in the bath? You will learn about this from today's article.

Bath ceiling requirements

The microclimate in the bath and sauna is very different from residential premises. In the steam room, the temperature can reach 80-100 degrees, humidity - 90-98%. In addition, the bath operates in a cyclic "heating - cooling" mode, so moisture condensation in the insulation, wood deformation and other adverse processes are possible in the ceiling ceilings.

Bath ceiling height

Proper arrangement of the ceiling pie allows you to minimize the impact of harsh conditions and reduce the cost of firewood or other fuel.

The ceiling in the bath should perform several functions:

it is good to retain heat inside the steam room and washing compartment;
do not let moisture vapor into attic space;
do not emit harmful substances into the room when heated;
have fire safety;
work for a long time in conditions of high humidity and temperature.

These tasks are solved with the help of right choice materials and technology of installation of floors and ceilings.

What materials are suitable for the ceiling in the bath

The choice of materials for the bath ceiling is a crucial step. Of all the variety offered on the construction market, it is necessary to choose the most reliable, environmentally friendly and fireproof.

Wood for the ceiling frame. The floors in the bath are usually made of coniferous wood, thanks to the resinous structure, it does not rot longer. In addition, softwood lumber and boards are easy to process and are not expensive. Coniferous wood is used for beams, draft ceiling, and also for the attic floor. To avoid shrinkage and the appearance of gaps, boards are best used after atmospheric or forced drying.
wood for interior decoration. Despite all the advantages of coniferous wood, it has a drawback: at high temperatures, it releases resin droplets that can cause severe burns if it comes into contact with the skin. Therefore, hardwood boards - aspen, linden, alder are more often used for internal finishing of the ceiling in the bath. These types of wood allow you to create a special spirit in the bath, they are easy to process. Their price, however, is somewhat higher.
Vapor barrier. A prerequisite for the durability of the ceiling in a bath or sauna is a high-quality vapor barrier that prevents steam from escaping through the ceiling and ceilings into the insulation layer and the attic. You can use for this purpose glassine, film materials made of polyethylene foam, as well as various vapor barrier films - membranes. Before buying, you need to make sure that the material can be operated in conditions of high temperature up to 120 degrees.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath

What materials cannot be used?

Materials that emit harmful substances when heated are not suitable for a bath ceiling; in particular, it is:

plywood, OSB and chipboard;
polystyrene, expanded polystyrene as a heater;
mounting foam for sealing cracks;
polyethylene films not intended for operation at high temperatures.

Even in the absence of odor, these materials release phenols and monomers. At high temperatures, the body absorbs them more actively, which can cause serious diseases up to oncology.

Materials that can not be used in the construction of the ceiling in the bath: 1. Plywood, OSB and chipboard. 2. Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene). 3. Mounting foam. 4. PET film. 5. Boards affected by fungus.

Also, you can not use a board affected by a fungus - in conditions of high humidity, it will begin to actively multiply, destroy wood and release toxins. To extend the service life, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics intended for baths and saunas - they are environmentally friendly and harmless.

The device of floors and ceilings in the bath

Ceiling ceilings and the ceiling in the bath can be made different ways, the most popular of which are:

Their device is distinguished by the materials and technologies used, and it is better to determine the type of flooring at the stage of building walls or a log house.

false ceiling

This design is used in the traditional log construction of baths and is characterized by increased strength. It is suitable for baths of any size and layout, including two-story buildings with a relaxation room in the attic.

False ceiling in the bath

The main difference between a hemmed ceiling is durable beams made of logs, the so-called mothers. They are laid on the last crown of the log house. The beams serve as a support for attic floor and tighten the walls of the building, giving it strength. The ceiling to the beams is hemmed from below, the attic floor is equipped on top, and the space between the beams is filled with insulation.

increased strength;
good thermal insulation;
durability.

it is necessary to lay beams at the stage of wall construction;
high consumption of material.

A false ceiling can also be mounted in a frame, brick bath and a foam block building. To do this, when erecting walls, windows or grooves are left in the masonry, where beams from a log or timber are installed.

Decking ceiling

The main difference between such a ceiling is that the boards are laid on the walls or in the grooves in the log, for which a quarter of the log is cut off. There are no floor beams in this case, so the method is only suitable for baths of a small area, otherwise the boards will sag. It is difficult to arrange an attic on a flat floor; you will have to walk on a heater. In such baths, the attic is more often used as a technical room.

Floor ceiling in the bath

cheaper design;
simple construction and repair.

it is difficult to make effective insulation;
suitable only for baths and saunas of small size with an unused attic.

panel ceiling

The prefabricated structure of individual panels allows you to assemble the ceiling from scraps of the board and the remnants of insulation. Boxes are made from grooved boards, in which insulating mats are laid, they are sewn up from above. The boxes are placed on a pre-prepared frame made of a bar or board close to each other.

Features of the device panel ceiling in the bath

you can use a thinner board and trimmings, due to the prefabricated structure, the necessary rigidity and strength will be provided;
easy to replace individual elements during repairs.

rather massive construction;
joints and cracks must be carefully sealed.

The choice of ceiling design depends on the size and type of building and the availability of suitable materials.

The false ceiling is reliable and durable, so it is most often found in the construction of baths. Below is stepwise technology its installation.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a false ceiling

Before starting work, you need to decide on the height of the ceiling. It is believed that for comfortable soaring, its height in a fine finish should be at least 2.2 m.

In this case, the following features must be taken into account:

a log house in the first two years can shrink up to 10-15% of the height;
the thickness of the draft ceiling is 30-50 mm;
between the draft ceiling and the finishing sheathing, a ventilation gap of 50 mm is required;
the skin thickness is 10-20 mm.

To ensure the desired height of the finishing ceiling, the floor beams must be located during the construction of the bath at a height of at least 2.5 m.

Floor device

Floor beams in classic bath construction are made from the same type of log from which a log house is laid. They are laid along the short side of the log house with a step of 1-1.5 m. The logs are cut off on both sides for the convenience of filing the draft ceiling and attic floor.
Matrices are prepared from a log: they are marked and sawn off to size, the upper and lower planes are cut off by 1/8 of the diameter.
In the logs of the upper crown - comb and mats - grooves are chosen for connecting "into a fat tail". This type of connection is generally similar to the “into a bowl” connection, but it is characterized by increased wind protection, it is less blown through due to additional spikes.
After fitting, the mats are laid in place with caulking moss, tow or interventional insulation. Mauerlats are laid on top of the last crown, on which the truss system is then mounted.

Draft ceiling lining

The draft ceiling is made of edged or tongue-and-groove coniferous boards in such a way as to ensure a minimum of gaps and cracks. When using an edged board, it is recommended to choose a quarter in it for better joining. The thickness of the board for the washing department is 25-30 mm, for the steam room - 40-50 mm.
The board is sewn to the mats from below. For a snug fit of the boards to the crowns of the log house, logs are cut off.
The bars are nailed to the resulting plane in such a way as to align them with the top and bottom of the mats. The ends of the boards of the subfloor are nailed to them, and subsequently the floor of the attic.
The draft ceiling is nailed to the mats from below, tightly joining the boards. The first board is laid close to the log house, having previously cut down the spike or the selected quarter. They fasten the boards with nails to each mat so that it does not take away or warp, use two galvanized nails for each intersection. You can use galvanized screws, having previously drilled small diameter holes in the boards. The length of the nails should be 2-3 times the thickness of the board, usually fasteners with a length of 80-90 mm are used.
Each next board is driven with a spike into the groove of the previous one and knocked out with a hammer through the bar until the lock is fully connected.
If a stove is installed in the bathhouse, the chimney of which passes through the floors, it is necessary to prepare an opening for the chimney at the stage of laying the subfloor. The mats at the place where the opening is made are cut off in the same way as the logs of the upper crown, and bars or boards are nailed to them, between which additional ceilings are mounted according to the size of the pipe penetration box.

vapor barrier

The purpose of the ceiling vapor barrier is to prevent steam from entering the steam room and washing compartment into the insulation layer. Given the high humidity in these rooms, vapor barrier must be done in compliance with all the rules, without saving on it.

When heating a bath, the ceiling can heat up to a temperature of 60-100 degrees, so vapor barrier is performed only with heat-resistant materials.

The traditional method of vapor barrier is to coat cracks and joints with a clay-sand mortar, which is also used for laying stoves. Its vapor barrier properties are not inferior to modern materials.

Make a solution like this:

fine-grained dry quarry sand is sieved through a sieve to remove debris, stones, organic matter;
oily oven clay is soaked for three days in water, after which the resulting solution of a semi-liquid consistency is rubbed through a sieve;
scraps and remnants of basalt or mineral fibrous insulation are crushed by hand, it gives the solution plasticity;
these components are mixed in equal proportions to a paste-like mass with a construction mixer, adding water if necessary.

With the resulting composition, the junctions of the subfloor to the log house, pipe penetration are smeared.

They also cover the draft floor from the side of the attic, the thickness of the vapor barrier layer is at least 5 cm.

Drying such a vapor barrier usually takes at least a week. This method is environmentally friendly and has been proven over the years, but not very convenient, and therefore not very popular with modern developers - they prefer to make vapor barrier with modern materials.

The fit of the subfloor boards to the log house in this case is caulked with tow or interventional insulation. For vapor barrier, any heat-resistant and vapor-tight roll material is used, for example, foil or insulating film.

It is laid on top of the subfloor with an overlap on mats of at least 10 cm, grabbing their edges with a stapler or small nails through thin wooden planks.

You can completely cover the mats from above. In this case, pieces of material are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, gluing the joints with metallized or aluminum tape.

Ceiling insulation

An important stage is the thermal insulation of the bath ceiling. It, like vapor barrier, can be made using both natural materials and modern heaters. The purpose of thermal insulation is to save firewood and time to kindle a bath, as well as to maintain a high temperature in the steam room for a long time.

To calculate the thickness of thermal insulation, there are many methods that take into account the thermal conductivity of the material, the temperature difference inside and outside the room, and other factors. However, this calculation is complicated, so developers usually use ready-made solutions based on the experience of operating baths.

Table. The thickness of the thermal insulation for the ceiling of the bath.

As can be seen from the table, natural heaters are effective only if their layer is thick enough. Therefore, when constructing an attic floor above the steam room, it is better to use modern materials.

These include clay mixed with sawdust or straw cutting, peat or black soil, expanded clay.

Advantages of using natural materials:

they are not afraid of steam and moisture - they absorb and gradually evaporate it without losing their insulating properties;
environmentally friendly;
cheap or even free.

low thermal insulation properties;
backfilling is required in a thick layer;

These materials are usually used in combination with clay vapor barrier. They are poured directly on top of the dried layer of clay putty between the mats to their upper level.

If the attic is used as a technical room, you can not cover the insulation with anything, it is not afraid of getting wet even in case of roof leaks. When equipping the attic floor, a draft floor is laid on top of the insulation and finishing is done.

more convenient and modern way- thermal insulation of the bath ceiling with mineral, basalt wool. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of different density and thickness. The thermal conductivity of the insulation and its ability to retain its shape depend on the density.

For insulation of horizontal surfaces, mats with a density of 30 kg/m³ or more can be used. For the bath, special heaters are produced, one side of which has a foil surface - they additionally reflect infrared radiation. Such mats or slabs are laid with the shiny side down.

Modern thermal insulation materials

Cut mats to size with sharp knife or scissors. Shredded scraps of material can also be used. They lay completely the entire space between the mats, observing the recommended layer thickness. If plates are used, they are laid in a checkerboard pattern, overlapping the joints of the previous row.

Mineral and basalt wool must be covered with a layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing. Even with a single wetting, the fibers stick together, the cotton wool settles and ceases to retain heat.

Insulation waterproofing

It is laid on top of the insulation under the draft floor of the attic room or as the top layer of the ceiling cake in a non-residential attic. As a waterproofing, it is better to use modern non-woven membranes with one-sided vapor permeability - they let moisture vapor out of the insulation, but do not allow water to penetrate into the insulation from the outside.

Membranes on the modern market are presented in a huge assortment, their characteristics are similar, so you can choose any that is suitable for the price and properties. The waterproofing is spread over the insulation and mats with an overlap on the Mauerlats and the upper logs of the log house, placing the film with the pattern up.

The strips are joined with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The waterproofing is attached to the mats with a stapler, strips of construction tape are glued over the attachment point. The joints are also insulated with tape.

Arrangement of the draft floor of the attic

The floor in the attic is made if they plan to use it as a room for drying and storing brooms or as a summer room. For the subfloor, an edged board with a thickness of 25-40 mm of coniferous species is used. It is hammered onto mats with nails, 2 nails for each intersection.

A mandatory gap is left along all walls for ventilation of the insulation, its width is 2-2.5 cm. Any finishing coating, for example, a laminate, can be placed on top of the subfloor. In this case, the ventilation gap must also be observed. For a technical attic, a subfloor is enough.

Laying ceiling technology - features

To make a flooring ceiling, thicker boards are used that can withstand the load of insulation. As a rule, a grooved or edged board of 50-60 mm is used for this purpose. It is laid on top of the log house in the groove selected in the logs of the upper crown.

The boards are laid, tightly knocking to each other. The vapor barrier is fixed from the bottom of the draft ceiling with a stapler, after which it is sheathed with clapboard or a thin edged board. In this case, the insulation is laid out over the draft ceiling and covered with waterproofing, which is attached to the stapler to the Mauerlat and the upper crown of the log house.

Bath ceiling interior

With the help of interior decoration, they hide the flaws of the draft ceiling and give the bath design and beauty.. It should be noted right away that a well-fitted draft ceiling can be used without sheathing, but most developers prefer to finish the ceiling at the same time as wall sheathing.

Clapboard ceiling lining

For ceiling cladding, hardwood lining is most often used: aspen, linden or alder. It has a light aroma of wood, which allows you to create a unique aroma in the bath. Lining choose category A or B - they do not have knots, through holes, or other defects.

Bars 50x50 or 40x60 mm are attached to the draft ceiling over the mats with 120 mm nails. For better vapor barrier, the draft ceiling is additionally sheathed with foil vapor barrier, fixing it over the boards and the bar with a stapler. The joints are glued with aluminum tape.

Gluing seams with aluminum tape

The lining is attached to the bars with the help of finishing nails or galvanized self-tapping screws. A ventilation gap is left from the edge of the walls, which, after sheathing the walls, is closed with a plinth. Through this gap, the space between the sheathing and the draft ceiling is ventilated, which allows you to extend the life of the lining.

So that the sheathing board does not change color and does not darken from moisture, it is recommended to treat it with 1-2 layers of varnish or impregnation for baths and saunas. The compositions for the bath are made on a water basis, so that they do not form a film, and the tree breathes. You can also use flaxseed oil.

A properly installed ceiling in a bathhouse lasts at least 20 years without the need for replacement. Moisture does not linger in it, condensate quickly evaporates due to the sustained ventilation gap. Experts recommend inspecting the ceiling every six months in order to notice a violation of the vapor barrier layer, darkening and decay of wood in time and carry out timely repairs. In this case the bath long years will give you health and good mood.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath - step by step guide and tips

Learn how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands - a step-by-step guide to arranging a ceiling, choosing materials, tips, photos + videos.

Which of the owners country house Have you ever thought about building your own bathroom? However, before turning dreams and ideas into reality, it is worth learning more about the features of the construction of the bath, which are many due to the specifics of the building. In particular, they relate to the construction of the ceiling, which must withstand high temperatures and humidity, help maintain the necessary microclimate in the steam room and prevent heat from wasting. In this article, you will find the subtleties and nuances of the ceiling installation in a log bath and get step-by-step instructions for its manufacture.

What should be the ceiling in the bath

First of all, it is worth understanding the conditions in which the ceiling is located in the bath, and on the basis of this, develop the requirements that it must meet. Compared to a residential building, the conditions in the steam room can be called extreme - the temperature rises to 80-90 degrees Celsius and above, and this is with extremely high humidity. Both warm air and moisture, obeying the laws of physics, rush up to the ceiling. Therefore, the latter requires resistance to high temperatures. In addition, he needs good thermal insulation, because up to two-thirds of heat loss occurs on the ceiling. And the less energy is lost "to nowhere", the easier it is to maintain the microclimate in the steam room. High-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling in the bath is saving money in the future.

Now it is worth paying attention to the problem of humidity. Here, its level is very high, while moisture should not penetrate higher to the ceiling and thermal insulation. Otherwise, the insulation will lose its properties, and dampness will adversely affect the strength and durability of the entire structure. In addition, high humidity creates a comfortable environment for the growth of fungi and mold.

Important! Remember that moisture penetrates not only from below, from the steam room, but also from above, with rain and snow.

Therefore, in addition to good thermal insulation, the ceiling in the bath must have high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

The next issue is structural strength. By itself, a wooden ceiling has a considerable mass, and a mass of insulation is also added to it. Therefore, the ceiling structure must be durable and able to withstand such loads. And if the space under the roof of the bath will be used as an attic or attic, then the requirements for strength and safety are even more stringent.

And the last (but not least) characteristic of the ceiling in the bath is the appearance. Agree, being in a steam room is more pleasant when everything around looks beautiful, including the ceiling. In addition, the bath, attractive both from the outside and from the inside, will give you a reason to be proud of your household and guests, because you did all this yourself, your with my own hands. Therefore, when building a ceiling in a bath, remember not only about thermal insulation and strength, but also about beauty.

Ceiling device in the bath: choose the material

The next question that needs to be considered is what the ceiling in the bath is made of, and first of all it concerns the sheathing. Since the steam room, unlike an ordinary living room, heats up to 80-90 degrees, all kinds of plastics disappear: at such temperatures they release substances that are dangerous to humans into the surrounding air, sometimes polymer panels even deform under such conditions. And the section of the plastic ceiling surrounding the chimney will simply melt or even catch fire.

Various types of plywood and particle boards also cannot be attributed to materials suitable for a ceiling in a bath - they are too susceptible to moisture and under its influence change their shape and lose strength. Of course, they can be protected with paint or varnishes, but such coatings at high temperatures present the same danger as the aforementioned plastics.

Because the only the best option the material for covering the ceiling of the bath will be wood, but not any. It is better not to use coniferous wood for these purposes - when heated, resin is released from it, drops of which, falling on the skin, cause discomfort and leave painful burns. Choose a tree with low resin content, resistance to rot, and resistance to temperature and moisture. An example of an ideal material for ceiling cladding in a bath is a lining made of linden, aspen or alder.

Prices for lining

Advice! Any wooden structures in the bath must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. So you protect them from the main "enemies" of wood - fungus, mold, rot and fire.

In addition to sheathing, the homeowner must choose the insulation that he will use to install the ceiling in the bath.

For this, the following materials are used:

expanded clay;
mineral wool;
ecowool;
Styrofoam;
sawdust.

Expanded clay is a clay crumb with a porous structure. It is extremely easy to use, has average thermal insulation and relatively high weight, so a ceiling with such insulation must be especially durable. Requires high-quality vapor barrier on both sides.

Mineral wool- the most common version of insulation for the ceiling in the bath. Mineral wool is light, does not burn, does not rot, protects well from heat loss and is inexpensive. It is advisable to purchase basalt wool for a bath, as it contains a minimum (or does not contain at all) additives and binders that can be harmful to humans in the form of vapors. Mineral wool tends to absorb moisture, so it requires good waterproofing.

Main advantage ecowool It is clear from its name - it is safe and environmentally friendly. pure material, made of cellulose with the addition of boric acid and impregnations that protect the insulation from rodents, insects, rotting and burning. Ecowool has excellent thermal insulation properties, but for its installation you will need special equipment and a specialist who can work with it.

Styrofoam hardly applies to materials that are well suited for a bath. Yes, it is cheap and has low thermal conductivity, but at the same time, like any other polymer, it can release harmful substances at high temperatures. In addition, the foam should not be used next to the chimney, as this is fraught with fire.

Sawdust as a heater can be called the "grandfather" method, which, obviously, is already outdated. They quickly become damp, mice can get into them, sawdust burns well and eventually cakes. Their main and only advantage is their cheapness: at the nearest sawmill they can be obtained either for free or for a nominal fee.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

For the vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath, some material is needed. The easiest and cheapest option is to use dense polyethylene. But for a low price, you will have to put up with the shortcomings of the material, among which the main one is the release of condensate penetrating into the thermal insulation layer.

An alternative is various membrane vapor barrier films that will become a reliable barrier to moisture. Examples of such materials can be NANOISOL or ISOSPAN. Another option for vapor barrier is foil roll insulation. You can protect the thermal insulation layer with the help of polyethylene and membrane films already mentioned above, or with the help of roofing material.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

There are three types of ceiling construction for a bath - flooring, hemming and panel. Below are step-by-step instructions for creating each of the three types.

Video - Ceiling height in a log cabin

How to make a deck ceiling for a bath

With this design, the ceiling sheathing is laid directly on the walls of the log house. This option is suitable for baths with a width of not more than 2.5 meters and with low ceilings. There is an opinion that it is simple and quick to make it, but for a log house, the task becomes much more complicated. First you need to prepare a platform on which the boards will be laid.

Two opposite crowns are selected and horizontal lines are drawn along them at a certain distance from the floor. These lines are the level of the future ceiling.
Logs are removed from the log house and transferred to a pre-prepared place. Next, you need to measure the width of the platform for flooring with lines on the upper parts of the crowns - it should be at least 5 centimeters.
The sections of logs marked with lines are sawn through and then hollowed out with an ax and a chisel. The "shelf" should be as flat as possible.
Both crowns are laid back on the frame, the height of the platforms is also checked - it should be the same on both logs throughout their entire length.

Now begins the preparation of boards and laying. For a floor ceiling, it is desirable to use tongue-and-groove boards 2.5-5 centimeters thick: thanks to the tongue-and-groove connection, they fit better to each other. In addition, the strength of such a structure is higher.

Step 1. The width of the bath is measured, taking into account the platforms in the crowns. For accuracy, it is desirable to take as many measurements as the boards fit, with an interval along their width. The data is being written.

Step 2 Boards are cut according to the obtained width values. Further, the boards are marked with a pencil in the order of laying - so each board will be laid in a place previously intended for it.

Step 3 The flooring is treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant.

Step 4 A board is taken, laid on the platforms on the crowns and nailed. The length of the nails should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the board. If necessary, holes are drilled in the right places with a drill, but care must be taken that their diameter is less than the diameter of the nails.

Step 5 Fitting one board to another, laying the flooring is performed. Most likely, the last board will be wider than necessary, so you need to carefully cut off the excess from it and nail it to the platforms of the crowns.

Step 6 Above should be placed vapor barrier film, making sure that there are no gaps on it and that the joints are overlapped. In addition, the seams are glued with a special waterproofing tape.

Step 7 Next, the insulating material is laid. If it is loose, like expanded clay or sawdust, then a crate of timber is made around the perimeter of the ceiling. So you will achieve an even distribution of material on the flooring.

Roll waterproofing prices

roll waterproofing

Step 8 The final stage is the laying of waterproofing. As with a vapor barrier film, this layer must be overlapped and the seams must be sealed with adhesive tape.

If desired, ordinary planed boards can be used instead of tongue-and-groove boards, but they must be adjusted to each other with particular care. Another option is unedged boards, but always in two layers. So the top layer covers the gaps between the bottom boards. The result is a peculiar and rather beautiful flooring.

For sufficiently large baths, the boards are not laid on the walls, but on the beams. To do this, it is necessary to first make grooves in the crowns into which the transverse beams will fit. They are made from a bar that needs to be sanded, treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant. The cross section of the beam is selected based on the width of the bath, the load on the ceiling and the distance between the beams. To do this, use the tables below.

Table number 1. Required beam cross-section for a distance between beams of 50 cm.


Wall width, m	150	250	350	450
Wall width, m		Bar section, cm
2	5x8	5x10	5x11	5x12
2,5	5x10	5x12	5x13	5x15
3	5x12	5x14	5x16	5x18
3,5	10x11	10x13	10x15	10x16
4	10x13	10x15	15x15	15x16

Table number 2. Required beam cross-section for a distance between beams of 100 cm.


Wall width, m	150	250	350	450
Wall width, m		Bar section, cm
2	10x10	10x10	10x10	10x10
2,5	10x10	10x12	10x13	10x15
3	10x12	10x14	10x15	10x16
3,5	10x14	10x16	10x18	15x16
4	10x16	10x18	10x21	10x23

How to make a false ceiling for a bath

Most often, a hemmed ceiling is made in the bath - there are no restrictions on the length, width and height of the building for it, and besides, with such a ceiling design, the space above it can be used as an attic for storing bath equipment or as an attic, which can accommodate those who come to you guests.

Ceiling beams are made of thick timber, the cross section of which is selected based on the size of the room and the load on the ceiling. Before installation, do not forget to treat the beams with antiseptics and flame retardants.

Step 1. In the opposite crowns of the log house, grooves are cut for cross beams. You need to make sure that they are directly opposite each other.

Step 2 Beams are placed in pre-insulated grooves.

Step 3 Mounting rails are nailed to the beams (perpendicular to them) with a step of 50 cm (see diagram above).

Step 4 From below, a layer of vapor barrier is nailed to the timber. Its installation should be done before laying the boards. So not only the insulation layer, but also the beams of the ceiling will be protected from moisture.

Step 5 From below, a sheathing is laid on the vapor barrier and beams. For it, you can use ordinary or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 20-40 mm. You can nail the lining to the skin or leave the ceiling as it is.

Step 6 Thermal insulation material is laid or filled in the space between the beams. The thickness of the layer for the bath is at least 10-15 centimeters.

Step 7 A vapor barrier is laid on top. For this, it is desirable to use membrane films, such as Izospan FB (the material is laid with the foil side outward with an overlap of 15-20 cm). So moisture will not penetrate from above to the insulation and beams, but at the same time water vapor from them will be able to evaporate freely, and the ceiling will “breathe”.

Step 8 The second layer of boards is being laid, which will no longer be the ceiling of the steam room, but the floor of the attic.

Advice! Insulation of the ceiling of the bath should be started from the side farthest from the entrance to the attic, and flooring - on the contrary, from the near one. This is due to the fact that you cannot walk on the insulation itself, and it is inconvenient to move, walking from beam to beam.

How to make a panel ceiling for a bath

This design consists of separate panels assembled "on the ground" and then already installed on the crowns of the log house. The panels include ceiling beams, sheathing, vapor and thermal insulation. This is the main advantage - most of the work is done in a safe environment, and you do not need to constantly think about how not to fall down from the stepladder. However, the lifting and installation of such panels is a complex task, requiring the participation of several people.

Step 1. In the opposite crowns of the log house, platforms are cut out on which the panels will be installed. It is worth mentioning that laborious and unsafe work with a log can be replaced by installing thick wooden beams, which will serve as "shelves" for future panels.

Step 2"On the ground" two beams with a section of 50 by 100 millimeters are laid. The distance between them is half a meter, the length is selected according to the width of the bath, taking into account the installation sites.

Step 3 From above, a flooring is created from boards 20-30 thick and 600 millimeters long. They are laid so that the edges of the boards protrude 50 millimeters beyond the timber on both sides. For fasteners, nails are used, four per board.

cutting board prices

edged board

Step 4 The resulting plank box is turned over, a vapor barrier film is attached to its inner surface. To do this, you will need a construction stapler. The joints of the film are overlapped by 10-15 centimeters, the cracks are sealed with adhesive tape.

Step 5 Thermal insulation material is laid (or filled up) between the bars.

Step 6 Now up and down. From above, the bars are pre-connected with oblique crossbars to give rigidity to the structure and prevent it from deforming when lifted.

Step 7 After installing the panel on the platform or on the “shelf”, the operation is repeated several more times. As a result, you will get an array of panels.

Step 8 Lay a vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation in the space between the panels.

Step 9 On top you need to lay a layer of waterproofing film.

Step 10 At one of the walls, the panels are interconnected: for this you need to lay a long and fairly thick board nailed to each beam.

Step 11 Step 10 is repeated, but for the opposite wall and the space between them. The interval between such connecting boards should be approximately equal to one meter.

Step 12 The attic floor is being laid. If desired, the lining of the ceiling of the bath is trimmed with clapboard.

Arrangement of an opening for a chimney

In the arrangement of the opening, the main thing is compliance with the requirements fire safety. It must be remembered that the chimney is heated to very high temperatures, therefore it cannot come into contact with easily flammable materials such as wood, polyethylene or foam.

As you can see, with due effort, you can arrange a ceiling in a log bath yourself. The main thing is to have not only tools and materials, but also the desire to realize your plans and ideas.

Video - Ceiling arrangement in a log bath

Anyone who starts an independent construction of a bath on his site will have to take into account a huge number of specific nuances of this building. All of them, for the most part, are associated with the features of operation - frequent temperature changes with a very large amplitude, and a high level of humidity. Thus, all bath designs buildings must be functional which make them capable of withstanding such extreme impacts.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath

The bath ceiling is no exception. Moreover, the influence of humidity on it is especially critical, since hot air and steam always tend to rise, and usually in the area of \u200b\u200bthe overlap in the steam room or washing room, the highest temperatures and humidity levels are observed. For those beginners in construction who decide to make a ceiling in the bath with their own hands, a step-by-step guide is a must. It is these questions that this paper is devoted to.

There are several basic ceiling designs for a bath - all of them will be discussed below. But whichever of them is chosen as the base, they must all meet certain requirements:

Any ceiling is a fairly massive structure, especially if the attic of the bath is planned to be used as a utility room, utility room, or even as an additional useful area - attic. Thus, the ceiling structure must be highly reliable in terms of resistance to mechanical stress. Even if the attic will not be used to move people or place certain objects, the ceiling must still withstand both its own weight and the load of the insulation layer - this is a key rule for the safety of operating any room in general.

One of the key requirements is reliable thermal insulation.

Bath procedures will only bring health benefits if an appropriate microclimate is created in the premises. The ceiling is that structural element of any building through which a very large loss of heat is always possible. In order not to have to spend an incredible amount of fuel to maintain the desired temperature, while for the most part “heating the street”, it is necessary to provide the ceiling with the most reliable thermal insulation.
The materials used for the ceiling structure should not be afraid of dampness and elevated temperature. How to be¸ after all, in the vast majority of cases, it is used natural wood? There are solutions to this problem - the use of certain types of timber and special processing parts with compositions that dramatically increase the resistance of the material to moisture and to the processes of biological decomposition.

By the way, many of the modern impregnations give another useful result. They contain special flame retardant additives, which significantly increase the resistance of wood to fire - this is extremely important for a bath.

One of the main "enemies" of wood is high humidity, and in a bath without it - nowhere. In order to protect the wooden load-bearing structural elements to the maximum from moisture penetration, reliable hydro and vapor barrier will be required. At the same time, condensation must not be allowed to accumulate in the thickness of wood or insulation material. This means that it is necessary to provide for the possibility of a free exit of water vapor up into the atmosphere.

A hydro-vapor barrier is shown above, a diffuse membrane is shown below.

Prices for waterproofing

hydrovapor barrier

This is ensured by the use of special roll coatings, membranes, and each layer must be located strictly in a certain place, otherwise the desired effect cannot be achieved.

And, finally, it will be pleasant to spend time in the bath if the ceiling is also beautiful. Perhaps some home craftsmen classify this requirement as an excess, but nevertheless, the decorative qualities of the walls and ceiling of the bath are a kind of "calling card" of the owners, and finishing issues should not be discounted either.

Now let's move on to the consideration of the main structures of the bath ceiling - hemmed, floor and panel type.

false ceiling

This design is the most commonly used. It is quite simple, understandable, meets all the requirements, allows you to use the attic as a usable area.

The basis for the installation of such a ceiling system are attic floor beams. All other details, both above and below, are based on them. The convenience of the design is that there are no restrictions on the length and width of the room. It is assumed that the floor beams are installed according to the developed project, with the required beam cross-section (or log diameter) and with the necessary step. Thus, it is fully possible to turn the ceiling into a full-fledged interfloor overlap that opens up opportunities for beneficial use attic.

Schematically, a false ceiling can be represented as follows:

1 - the main walls of the bath. It is clear that natural wood is most often used, and in this diagram a monolithic wall is shown only for simplification.

2 - beams of the attic floor. Before mounting the ceiling, they must be thoroughly fixed to the walls with insulation of the nodes adjacent to them.

3 - ceiling filing boards. In this embodiment, shown in the diagram, they simultaneously play the role of the finishing surface of the ceiling, although this is not always the case.

4 - a layer of hydrovapor barrier. It is optimal if a special waterproof membrane. Even better if it has a foil layer facing down - this is an additional barrier to moisture and a reflective surface that prevents heat loss.

5 - a layer of thermal insulation materials laid between the floor beams.

6 – vapor-permeable a membrane that does not allow water to penetrate into the insulation from above, but does not interfere with natural vapor exchange - that is, it allows the ceiling structure to “breathe”, getting rid of accumulated moisture.

7 - attic floor boards.

Perhaps the main disadvantage similar design false ceiling is a significant consumption of lumber and a rather large laboriousness in installation. However, we should not forget that at the same time "two birds with one stone" are killed - at the exit there is an insulated bath ceiling and an almost finished floor of the attic (mansard).

Are the bath and attic compatible?

With the right planning, why not. It is extremely convenient - after bath procedures, without going outside, go up to a full-fledged rest room.

The project is small, the reader can get acquainted in a special article of the portal.

Carrying out installation work

Work is carried out in the following order:

If the floor beams have not yet been treated with special protective impregnations before their installation, now is the time to eliminate this drawback. Particular attention is paid to the end faces of the beams - here you can not regret even three layers of primer.
In the event that the ceiling is arranged in the room where the sauna stove-heater will be located, it is necessary to immediately provide for the passage of the chimney. To do this, two jumpers are installed between the beams, which will limit the rectangle or square required for installing the through metal box.

Values A and B must correspond to the dimensions atacquired or a self-made box - this will largely depend on the diameter of the chimney pipe.

This “outlined” square temporarily falls out of the work area - it will not be sewn up with boards either from above or below, no membranes are laid in it and no insulation is laid.

The next step is to attach a vapor barrier membrane to the floor beams from below over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room. It should be on the walls by about 200 mm on each side - this will be required to create unified system waterproofing of the room.

The best choice is a special roll material designed specifically for these purposes. If this is not possible, it is permissible to use dense polyethylene with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, but the quality of the insulation will not be the same. The strips are attached to the floor beams in such a way that an overlap of at least 200 mm is created, which must be glued with waterproof tape.

If foil material is purchased, then it is placed with the shiny side down, and the overlaps are glued with a special aluminized tape.

Only now you can proceed to filing the ceiling with boards. There are at least two possibilities here.

The first is as shown in the diagram above. The filing boards, provided that this is a high-quality material (best of all - tongue-and-groove), will immediately play the role decorative coating. They are attached to the floor beams, which in this case are a kind of "lags". For fastening, either nails or self-tapping screws of the desired length are used. Self-tapping screws look preferable, as they hold suspended boards more securely, and during installation, impact forces are not required, which are not entirely “useful” for floor beams.

However, this method is used infrequently - it turns out to be a little expensive, since a good grooved board 20 ÷ 25 mm thick is expensive. In addition, it is desirable to create a small air gap between the waterproofing and the front sheathing. This means that a third-rate material can be used for the initial filing, which will simply create the basis for the insulation layer laid on top. And below is a slightly different design:

1 - walls.

2 - floor beams.

3 - a layer of hydrovapor barrier, the same as in the previous case.

4 - boards of rough filing (rolling). Material of not the highest decorative quality is quite appropriate here.

5 - a layer of foil rolled insulation. This is another waterproofing barrier, plus the effect of a “thermos” is created in the room, which is very important, in particular, for a steam room.

6 - a layer of foil insulation is pressed against the roll boards by counter rails, which are placed perpendicularly, with the necessary step (400 ÷ 600 mm) for mounting the lining.

7 - natural lining, which becomes the front cover of the bath room. Usually it is used on the ceiling and on the walls.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

When the cladding of the ceiling surface is finished, insert the chimney duct and fasten it to the ceiling covering.

After Bottom part the ceiling is sheathed, you can go for further work in the attic.

The next step is laying the insulation layer. And here it is important to make one very important remark.

Often in publications with bath ceilings, you can find recommendations to first hem the bottom boards, and then cover the top, along the flooring and along the beams, with a waterproof vapor barrier film. Let's look at the diagram - it would seem that everything is exactly the same as above. But here the error is shown - it is highlighted with a red arrow.

If you lay the vapor barrier in this way, it turns out that the floor beams do not have any protection against moisture rising from above. Moreover, the possibility of evaporation of moisture up into the atmosphere is completely excluded, that is, the beams will not dry out even when the bath is not in use. Unfortunately, this error “walks” across the Internet, is replicated, and as a result, the master who applied such a scheme dooms the ceiling design to fragility.

The same error is in the photo

The boards of the front filing of the ceiling will in any case come into contact with steam, but they are easy to change as they wear out. But the beams perform a supporting role, and if the process of decay or the formation of a fungus goes into them, then the strength of the structure will be a big question, and repair work"will fly into a pretty penny."

Beams should remain open at the top - then, with proper organization of insulation, excess moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.

Mineral wool is very often used as a bath ceiling insulation - it is safe from the point of view of ignition, harmless to humans (if you use stone wool. Glass wool or slag wool in baths is undesirable). Insulation mats are spread between the floor beams, so that they fit as tightly as possible, leaving no gaps.

Expanded polystyrene, widely used in construction practice, should not be used to insulate a bath ceiling. Firstly, the material is not designed for high temperatures, and with strong heating it can deform, “float”. Secondly, there are many questions about polystyrene and environmental friendliness - over time, its decomposition is inevitable with the release of toxic substances. And thirdly, polystyrene foam cannot be classified as non-combustible materials, and for a bath it is extremely important.

Often, expanded clay backfill is used to insulate the ceiling between floor beams, with a thickness of about 100 ÷ 150 mm. The method is not bad, but only in the case of using high-quality expanded clay, since you can find very critical testimonials from people who used inexpensive material, and not happy with the results.

Do not lose popularity and the old "grandfather" ways of warming the ceiling of the bath. So, usually during the construction of a log house, a lot of shavings and sawdust remain. And this is a very good insulating material. Under normal conditions, they are poured into the space between the beams in a dry form, but for a bath it is better to make a dense wet solution using cement or clay. You can look at an example:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The ceiling below is completely hemmed with clapboard. Between it and the ceiling tanks, an appropriate water vapor barrier layer is laid.
	A passage box has been installed, and in this case a chimney has already been installed.
	The same box is a view from the attic, filled with expanded clay, which acts as a thermal insulating "pillow".
	It is supposed to backfill a wet solution, so the cells between the floor beams must be additionally closed with pieces of film hydrovapor barrier. From below them, you can additionally lay a pro-oiled cardboard. The beams themselves remain open at the top.
	Surely, there are gaps in the coating - for example, in the places where cables or other communications pass. In addition, the gaps can be in the junctions of the beams.
	First of all, it is possible to close up all the cracks and gaps with the help of mounting foam, blocking possible cold bridges.
	Now you can prepare the insulation composition. To do this, about one ladle (1.5 dm³) of dry cement is added to two buckets of dry sawdust.
	The required amount of water is added. You need to be very careful with this - the solution should not turn out to be liquid. The required consistency is semi-dry, so that when squeezed in a fist, a lump forms, but without the release of water.
	The mixture is kneaded - it will be most convenient to do this with a construction mixer. For large volumes, you can also use a concrete mixer, then feeding ready mix up.
	The finished composition is poured out between the floor beams.
	You can distribute it with a trowel - an even layer of the same thickness. It is not necessary to tamp the solution.
	Usually the layer is brought to the upper edge of the beams - it turns out about 100 ÷ 150 mm, which will be enough for high-quality insulation of the bath. Sometimes the work is carried out in layers, gradually bringing the thickness of the insulation to the desired level, allowing the laid layers to seize and dry.

Chopped straw is sometimes used instead of sawdust, however, in this case it is better to use clay mortar.

What kind of heater nor used, after laying it is recommended to fix on the floor beams steam-permeable diffuse membrane. The properties of this material are such that moisture cannot get into the insulation from above, and water vapor freely escapes. Such natural ventilation prevents formation of condensate and reduction of insulating properties.

The action of the diffuse membrane - water is retained, and steam passes

After the membrane is laid and stapled to the beams, you can proceed to the flooring of the attic floor boards, if it was planned. Usually, with hemmed ceiling types, attic floors are always made full-fledged, the room can be used, and the insulation will receive protection from mechanical damage.

Video: an interesting technique for insulating the ceiling in the bath

Bath ceiling floor type

This type of ceiling is much easier to install and requires much less lumber. However, it is not always possible to apply it.

Floor ceiling - on a miniature model of the bath

The floor ceiling will be appropriate only for small rooms - 2, maximum 2.5 meters. In this case, the flooring boards should have a thickness of about 50 mm. As a rule, the use of the attic as a useful area in such cases is not considered - the floor will not have the necessary strength. But on the other hand, the process of warming is also greatly facilitated - the thermal insulation material itself does not require additional protection from above.

An approximate diagram of the flooring ceiling is shown in the figure:

1 - walls. The distance between the main walls is no more than 2500 mm (light partitions are not taken into account).

2 - flooring boards, which are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws directly to the wall beam. The thickness of the board is less 50 mm, the width of its entry into the wall is the same - 50 mm. Well for these purposes, a high-quality planed board is suitable, which can be laid tightly one to the other, without gaps.

3 - layer vapor barrier- is no different from the above.

4 - insulating material. Almost anyone can apply. However, if bulk is used, then it will also be necessary to make partitions from a bar (pos. 5, shown in dotted lines, as an optional element) so that the backfill still has the necessary uniform thickness.

By the way, in this case, home-made mats are often used as thermal insulation, sewn from a waterproof film, and filled with available insulating material. For example, it can be synthetic winterizer waste, dry needles, etc.

Since movement in the attic is not expected, it is not necessary to make flooring over the insulation layer.

Under number 6 showing layer vapor permeable diffuse membrane. In this case, this is also optional. If the roof structure is made in accordance with all the rules, then such a membrane is already used under the roofing material, and free vapor exchange will be ensured. A reliable roofing should completely exclude direct water ingress, and since the attic is not used for economic or domestic purposes, an accidental spill of water is extremely unlikely. So you can save a lot on this.

Floor boards often immediately play the role of a finishing coating. If there is a need, for example, when finishing a steam room, to add thermal insulation, then you can do the same as in the case of a false ceiling - fill perpendicular to the counter rails, which will press the foil material to the surface, and then lay the natural lining.

Video: an example of installing a floor ceiling

panel type ceiling

The design of such a ceiling to some extent combines the features of the floor and hemming schemes. The ceiling surface is assembled on the ground, the process of insulation and waterproofing can also take place here, and then the finished panels rise to a height and are mounted on the upper crown of the walls.

What do these panels usually look like? These are hammered shields, the basis for which are two beams located in parallel at a distance of 500 mm from one another. The cross section of the beam depends on the length of the span, but it is usually taken equal to 50 × 100 mm - this allows you to achieve high strength of the ceiling structure - it will quite serve as a floor for an attic or attic. And, at the same time, 100 mm is sufficient thickness for full insulation.

The bars are laid out in parallel on a flat stable base at a distance of 500 mm along external parties, align the edges. Then pieces of board are stuffed on them with a thickness of about 25 ÷ 30 mm, a length of 600 mm. The width of the board does not matter - as a rule, they use the remnants of lumber, which, by the way, allows you to seriously save on such a ceiling. Each board is attached to the beam with two nails to ensure the immobility of the structure. The boards are placed in such a way that they protrude equally on the sides of the shield by 50 mm.

After the panel is knocked together, it is turned over with the bars up. Using stapler staples, a hydro-vapor barrier film is attached to its inner surface (shown by an arrow). Note that the top of the bars remains open.

If there are enough working hands, or there are lifting devices that will help lift the panel to a height, then you can immediately, on the ground, immediately insulate the panel (unless, of course, we are talking about rolls or mats of thermal insulation material). For example, the laying of mineral wool will not make the panels too heavy - but there will be no need to carry out this work in the attic.

Insulation mats are laid tightly in the gap between the bars, covered with a membrane. In order for the resulting structure to acquire additional rigidity necessary to lift it to a height, 2 ÷ 3 oblique temporary jumpers from the boards are placed.

1 - mats (blocks) of insulating material - mineral wool.

2 - temporary "oblique" lintels for lifting the panels onto the walls.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Panels are lifted to the place of installation. This may be the upper plane of the crown, or a horizontal stepped groove on it specially selected for the panel structure. Another option is to attach a beam with a thickness of at least 50 mm to the walls along the perimeter, which will become a “shelf” for installing finished panels.

In any case, the place where the panels are laid needs an insulating seal. Usually, jute felt tape is used for these purposes - it will perfectly block the gaps between the wall and the panels.

The panels are laid close to each other, temporary jumpers are removed. After joining between the panels, based on their design, a gap of 100 mm wide remains. It was not left by chance: its purpose is to insulate joints.

1 - wall.

2 - felt tape sealing the joints of the wall and panels.

3 - finished panels with temporary jumpers already removed.

4 - cut out strip of thermal insulation material.

5 - boards fixing the panels to each other.

In each of these openings at the junction, at first, the same hydrovapor barrier film is laid along the bottom and walls. Then, a wide strip is cut out of the mineral wool slabs, which fits into the opening with maximum density (shown by wide green arrows). Thus, the cold bridge at the junction will be securely closed.

It remains to fix the panels together. First, a diffuse membrane is spread over them, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Then a solid board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is laid - preferably a length along the entire length of the room, that is, in total it should fasten everything together installed panels. It is nailed (screwed) to each bar. The same board is immediately placed on the opposite side of the panel ceiling. Then you can sheathe the resulting surface with a short board, 600 mm long - this is how the attic floor will be formed. At the same time, do not forget that the long boards connecting the panels should go not only along opposite walls, but also between them, with a step of no more than 1000 mm.

From below, the ceiling can be sheathed with clapboard, using the same technology that has already been mentioned above.

Advantages of this method of ceiling installation:

The main assembly and even insulation is carried out in comfortable and safe conditions - on the ground.
The design turns out to be solid - this is a full-fledged insulated floor for the attic, which can be usefully used.
Such a ceiling can be mounted in rooms of almost any reasonable size.

The disadvantages include:

A very large amount of work.
The need for lifting devices or equipment, or the efforts of several people.
The installation of such a ceiling must be carried out before the installation of the truss system - and this is not always convenient from the point of view of the organization of construction.

So, the main varieties were considered wooden ceilings for a bath, technological recommendations for their installation are given. You should carefully study all the advantages and disadvantages of each of the systems in order to assess the possibilities of its installation in relation to the specific conditions of the existing bath, weigh your capabilities, both in terms of the necessary building skills and in terms of material costs. You can’t make a mistake in such matters - a poor-quality executed ceiling will necessarily negatively affect the comfort of bathing procedures, and its alteration is an extremely complex and costly undertaking.