outdoor amenities

How to install a pvc corner panel. How to fix pvc wall panels on the walls with your own hands

It is not for nothing that polyvinyl chloride has gained such wide popularity in the construction industry. A wide variety of materials are made from it, which are used in construction and decoration. The installation of PVC panels on walls and especially the ceiling is a fairly common occurrence, and today every construction team offers such services. However, due to the simplicity of the device and installation, it is quite possible to produce self-installation pvc boards.

Where to begin?

The first thing that is sometimes given insufficient attention is measurement and planning. It is not enough to measure the length and width of the ceiling and simply buy the required number of panels, all aspects of the preparation must be taken into account. If the surface is perfectly flat, then a simple pasting of the plates on the ceiling or walls will be enough for an unpretentious taste. In the event that the plans include the point of giving the room not only aesthetic appeal, but also practicality, it is worth considering installing a full-fledged frame in which it is possible to hide various kinds of communications, for example, the same lighting.

Of course, it is difficult to imagine a job in which there is no need to use a tool. In this case, you will need the following:

a hammer drill or drill with a hammer function to the delight of all neighbors during installation work,
stepladder (for work in apartments with a standard ceiling height of 2.5 meters, the best choice would be an inexpensive aluminum stepladder 1.8 meters high),
hacksaws for wood and metal (a hacksaw is best for cutting PVC panels, allowing you to make the cut edges as smooth as possible),
tape measure and building level,
a paint or shoe knife (a well-sharpened steel cut is also suitable for it, the blade should be tilted at 60 degrees, the optimal blade width is 10 centimeters),
a hammer,
self-tapping screws or wallpaper nails with which the PVC panels are fastened to the frame.

Finishing with PVC panels provides for the mandatory use of these tools for work, since without them it is impossible to accurately install (the only exception is a puncher, which is needed to quickly level the problem surface). After selecting the tool, you should proceed to the first stage of work, to markup.

Preliminary preparation and measurements

First, the markup is applied to the entire work surface. Because PVC ceiling boards have standard sizes lamellae, it all depends on preferences. The most popular solution is "lining" - long strips that are 10 cm wide. It is necessary to draw lines to install the profile every 400 millimeters. The first mark is made along the width of the PVC panel, starting from the lowest point on the ceiling. After that, using the building level around the perimeter of the surface, marks are drawn for attaching anchors or dowels, depending on preference, with which the frame will be mounted to the surface of the wall or ceiling.

It should be noted that the profiles of the main supporting frame are always attached perpendicular to the location of the PVC boards. Experts recommend using not only a marking system and a level for marking, but also an ordinary rope of small thickness for quick marking. How to make it? Simple enough. You just need to “paint” the rope with colored crayons and press its ends to the surface - in this case, the marks made with chalk will remain on the wall. This method will significantly speed up the markup process, which will save time spent on preliminary work. Finishing with PVC panels of any surface, be it a wall or a ceiling, begins with the assembly of the frame.

Frame assembly

Initially, the frame is a profile connection made from different materials. There are the following types of frames:

wooden frame,
plastic trim,
metal profiles,

Each of the varieties has its advantages and is used depending on preferences.

A wooden frame is built infrequently, since such a design has more disadvantages than practical advantages. Wood is afraid of moisture and freezing, as well as drying out due to heat, for this reason, the question of the need to install a wood frame, especially in those rooms in which the influence of climate is noticeably felt (balcony or loggia, for example) is quite controversial.

If there are no contraindications, wooden beams fastened to the flooring every 60 centimeters with dowels or impact screws, a lining must be used to level the level of the boards. In general, this type of frame is inferior in its properties to similar structures made of plastic and metal.

Plastic U-shaped profiles have many advantages, among which stand out:

low cost,
light weight (which is especially important when carrying out installation work on the ceiling),
ease of fastening
insensitivity to moisture and heat.

Such profiles are fastened quite easily. According to pre-drawn lines, every 30 centimeters, dowels or self-tapping screws are installed, which are screwed in every meter. It is important to pay attention to the fact that when joining profiles, especially at an angle, it is necessary to use a hacksaw and a miter box (which is a tray for cutting boards at an angle of 45, 30 and 90 degrees). In this case, the cut will be hardly noticeable, and the joints will turn out to be even and tightly adjacent to each other. Another advantage of the plastic crate is that the internal grooves form cable channels for laying communications (wiring for lighting, for example).

A frame made of a metal profile is most suitable for the construction of vertical areas and is most often used for finishing walls with drywall (since the sheets of this material have significant weight). PVC wall panels, due to their light weight, do not require a powerful and strong frame, for this reason, preference is given to plastic when choosing a design. When using metal, cable laying for lighting must be carried out in corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes (PVC) to ensure fire resistance and prevent damage to the braid of power cables on the sharp edges of the metal frame.

Installation Requirements

Despite the ease of working with PVC products, the panels also require certain requirements to be met. Among them are the following:

before installation, the material must be allowed to rest, this is especially true for those conditions when it was stored at temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius,
PVC lamellas are arranged perpendicular to the frame rails,
with a high degree of humidity in the room, it is necessary to make ventilation cuts in the frame,
during installation, gaps of 5 millimeters must be taken into account to take into account temperature changes in PVC coatings,

when installing coatings with a pattern, work is always carried out from the left corner to the right (this does not apply to plain coatings),
cannot be produced installation work in those rooms whose internal temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius (that is, these PVC panels are categorically not suitable for creating an interior in steam rooms and baths),

Installation of ceiling panels

After the frame has been mounted, it is worth starting the installation of PVC panels. The strips are cut along the length of the ceiling and mounted in sequence, starting from the last one. The first strip is attached to the very corner, with the help of self-tapping screws, to the transverse profiles, which form additional rigidity of the frame. The next panels are already inserted into the grooves of the previous ones, so the installation is carried out to the end.

There is a possibility of difficulty at the stage of installing the last panel, since cutting the material to width will be required. There is another option with fixing the final panel: when it is turned over with a fixing lock to the other side and the groove is trimmed from the side to the required length.

After the installation of all the panels has been completed, the turn of the final work comes, namely the installation of the ceiling plinth. It is put quite simply: a layer of liquid nails is applied to the inside, after which the plinth is pressed against the finished ceiling and held for 10 seconds to dry the glue. After that, it remains only to remove excess glue from the surface and the ceiling is mounted.

It is worth noting that liquid nails on moldings dry out almost instantly, so the removal of sagging should be done as quickly as possible.

PVC panels are suitable for the design of any room, since there are a huge variety of models that are very diverse in external style, but the biggest plus is their use for interior decoration bathroom and toilet due to the distinctive ability of PVC to resist moisture. This is a significant plus in case of flooding of the bathroom by neighbors from above. The panels will withstand the load and do not have to do a thorough repair. In addition, PVC boards are easy to clean and are resistant to mold and bacteria, which makes them suitable for kitchen finishing as well. Soot and grease resulting from cooking can be easily washed off with simple products. household appliances, so the choice of such material will be correct.

Installing PVC boards on walls

PVC wall panels allow in a short time and without special costs give premises cozy interior. The installation process is not too different from similar ceiling installation work, and is painted literally in steps:

a frame made of metal profiles is installed on a wall pre-treated with an antifungal mixture (this is due to the fact that PVC wall plates are thicker and heavier, and a more powerful frame than plastic is required to hold them),
then the first panel with a corner is inserted into the profile and mounted against the wall. The second and third panels are inserted into the groove at an angle and attached to the first with the help of clamps (this is the name given to plastic brackets with serrated latches that allow the panel to be securely fixed to the metal frame rails),
after that, all subsequent panels are mounted on rails in the same way,
the last panel is inserted into the U-shaped corner and installed with it on the frame.

After that, finishing work is carried out related to the fastening of corners and cornices. It is often possible that the wall should have access to electrical sockets and light switches, which will add some complication during the installation process. In this case, the installation of ducts and the laying of power cables must be done before the installation of PVC boards begins. After that, when paneling, it is enough to simply cut the hole for the sockets of the required size.

It is important to remember the following at any stage of working with panels:

PVC material is quite brittle, so it should not be subjected to significant external force when laying the panels. A strong hand pressure on the panel is enough to cause a crack to appear on its surface that cannot be repaired.
The panels must be carefully applied one to the other, without any effort. If necessary, it is allowed to use an improvised tool, for example, a clerical knife, the narrow blade of which will allow you to direct the edges plastic pvc panels.

At the moment, a PVC plate, which will not cause difficulties to buy in almost any variation and color, is one of the most popular materials for interior and exterior decoration. Before buying, it is only worth checking the quality of the product by looking at the fact that there are no transverse uneven stripes and the number of stiffeners - to make sure that the product meets the stated expectations, and then the installation of such a coating will not cause trouble, and the PVC panels themselves will last long enough.

To date, polyvinyl chloride has managed to establish itself as a reliable and high-quality material that deserves to be used in various repair and construction areas. This is confirmed by the use of PVC panels not only for exterior, but also for interior decoration, which, as you know, implies a much more rigorous selection of suitable material.

In such cases, great attention is paid not only to technical specifications raw materials used, but also its aesthetic features. From this point of view, plastic panels are suitable option for various purposes. Among other things, bathroom PVC paneling is gaining popularity.

Plastic lining for finishing the surface of the walls in the bathroom is considered the most optimal solution for several reasons. The material has a wide range of possibilities and a long list of advantages.

Disadvantages of plastic lining

PVC paneling tools

In order for the renovation of the bathroom to do without unpleasant surprises, you must immediately stock up necessary set suitable tools and accessories, including:

moldings;
crate;
self-tapping screws (alternative - glue);
ruler and level;
drill;
screwdriver;
pencil;
roulette;
square;
hacksaw;
nails (dowel-nails);
joint sealant.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing with PVC panels

To completely change appearance bathroom and make the room comfortable and functional, it is necessary to make quite a lot of effort, but all of them will be rewarded with a long service life of PVC panels and pleasant emotions received from being in the room.

Mounting panels with self-tapping screws

Usually, craftsmen are invited to finish the surface of the walls with plastic clapboard, however, the ease of installation makes it possible to try your hand and make repairs yourself.

First of all, you should choose the method of fastening. There are two main options - glue and self-tapping screws. The disadvantages of the "glue" method are that, if necessary, "tear off" the panels from the walls, it will be extremely difficult to implement the idea, but installation will be quick and hassle-free.

Self-tapping screws eliminate the difficulty of dismantling, however, to install them, you will need to drill a large number of holes in the wall. This is reflected in the amount of time spent on repairs. In this case, you need to make a decision based on your personal considerations.

Stage 1. In the event that the choice is on the frame method, you must first take care of creating a special metal structure. In order to make a frame from a metal profile, you should first mark the surface of the wall with a level and mark the top and bottom points.

Stage 2. The profiles that belong to the main frame are fixed perpendicular to the plastic panels. Further actions depends on how the PVC panels will be attached. If the elements are arranged vertically, then the next step will be the direct installation of the plastic lining. Horizontal arrangement, on the contrary, requires additional efforts, since you will have to make jumpers in metal frame. For this method of fastening, among other things, you will have to make additional profiles to secure the inner corner.

The fastening clip is snapped into the “grooved” part of the profile, pressing the wide part of the clip with the “baiting” of the panel

Stage 3. In some cases, a decision is made to use the so-called combined technology, in which plastic panels are attached both vertically and horizontally. In this case, the vertical panels must be attached to the horizontal frame, and the remaining elements - due to the jumper. This is especially true for the seam line.

Stage 4. At this stage, you can proceed directly to finishing the wall with purchased panels. First fix with a level ceiling plinth and the inner corner, and then measure the desired height of the lining (based on the distance between the upper and lower points), cut off the remnants and insert the panel into the inner corner. It is important that the top of the part is inserted into the ceiling plinth.

PVC panels - trim strips (moldings)

Stage 5. We fix the panel on the frame by using self-tapping screws. They are screwed in from the side of the wide mounting shelf.

Stage 6. We prepare new panel, we fasten by inserting a narrow shelf of the element into the groove of the previous one until there is no joint, we fix it by analogy with the previous step.

Step 7. The last panel must be cut in such a way that the size of the part matches the size of the resulting gap. The width of the panel should be about 1 centimeter less than the distance from the last plastic lining to the inner corner. We insert the PVC panel in such a way that it is securely fixed between the final element and the previous panel.

Mounting by gluing

For gluing PVC panels, liquid nails are most often used. However, this option is relevant only if the surface of the wall does not differ in numerous defects and irregularities.

Step 1. We prepare the wall before finishing - remove it from the surface old plaster, paint, wallpaper and other residual materials.

Step 2 After that, we prime the wall with a special adhesive primer.

Step 3. We use the technology described for the frame method, however, instead of self-tapping screws, we use liquid nails to secure the elements.

If you perform the work with due attention, then there should not be any problems during operation. Plastic panels are a great opportunity to quickly and effectively transform the aesthetic and functional parameters of the bathroom, making it high-tech, comfortable and enjoyable. PVC panels are also used for finishing loggias and balconies. The technology for finishing these rooms is actually no different from the basic installation algorithm presented above.

Also read about installing PVC windows with your own hands.

Video - Finishing the bathroom with PVC panels

Video - All about PVC panels in the bathroom

Plastic panels are one of the most popular finishing materials due to their low price and a large selection of colors. One of the big advantages of lamellas is the possibility of self-installation.

Why choose PVC panels, and which ones?

You should buy only certified goods, as fakes are of poor quality, therefore they do not have sufficient strength and quickly fade. Advantages of plastic plates:

high resistance to moisture and chemicals;
simplicity and ease of installation;
hygiene;
fire safety;
durability;
biological resistance;
low cost.

The disadvantage of the material is low impact resistance, so care must be taken during transportation and installation. The strength depends on both the wall thickness and the number of stiffeners inside the panel. We check it by pressing a finger on the panel: if it bends, then the service life will be short.

Depending on the production technology, the panels are printed and film, according to the quality of the coating - glossy and matte. Naturally, the main criteria for choosing lamellas are color and pattern, but there are several nuances that you need to pay attention to when buying a material. If the material is packed, it is advisable to unpack it and inspect each panel:

Let's look at the cut. The thicker the jumper and the polymer layer on the front and back of the panel, the stronger the material. Weight can be a guideline, thick lamellas are heavier.
Plastic should have the same thickness throughout the plate, without thin spots and thickenings.
We check the geometry: the cells and edges should be smooth without flaws.
The drawing on the front side must be of high quality and clearly applied, without blurry spots, scratches.
Buy material from the same batch, if this is not possible, then carefully compare the pattern and color so that the plastic elements do not differ in tone.

The choice of plastic elements depends on the purpose of the room in which the sheathing will be performed. Several types of panels are produced:

1. Traditional lamellas with tongue-and-groove connection in the form of a plastic board.
2. Sheet panels resembling sheets of plywood.
3. Plastic lining, outwardly resembling an analogue made of wood of small width and various colors.

Material should be selected taking into account the design and purpose of the room. PVC lining will perfectly replace the wooden counterpart, create a warm atmosphere. Sheet panels are used for finishing rooms with walls of large areas. Perfect fit Wall panels for kitchens, baths, hallways and other premises, due to ease of care: dirt is easily removed with a cloth moistened with detergents.

The main advantage of plastic is its low cost. Dimensions of slats: width: 20–35 cm, thickness: 8–10 mm, length: 2.7–3 m. Thanks to these dimensions and low cost, it is possible to finish with PVC plates with a minimum budget.

How to prepare the walls, and what tool to stock up?

We begin work on finishing with the calculation of the required amount of material. First, we take measurements from the room: length, width, height. Then we measure the window and door openings. The calculation of the material depends on the method of fixing the panels. They can be mounted either vertically or horizontally. If the panels are mounted vertically, then we subtract the width of the openings from the length of the perimeter of the room and divide by the width of the lamella. We add 2-3 spare elements to the received quantity. With horizontal fastening, we find the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, divide it by the area of one lamella. Material consumption with this fastening increases due to trimming blanks, so we take 10% more in reserve.

To calculate how many rails are needed for the crate, we divide the height of the wall by the step between the rails and multiply by the perimeter of the room. The result obtained is the required number of rails in running meters. The number of corner profiles is calculated by measuring the height of the corners and multiplying this value by their total number. In addition, we add the sum of the perimeters of door and window openings to the obtained value.

If we glue plastic directly on the walls, then we perform preparatory work. We clean the walls from the old coating, repair the surface, filling up all the cracks, level out large defects, treat the surface with an antifungal agent. This will protect the walls under the plastic from mold and fungus, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. The method of attaching PVC plates to the frame does not require the preparation of walls. In addition, communications and wires can be hidden under the coating. The frame can be made of wooden or plastic slats, metal profiles. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages.

A wooden frame is rarely used, only for dry rooms. The tree is adversely affected by temperature changes, high humidity. Therefore, they are not used in rooms where the climate has a noticeable effect, for example, a veranda, loggia, balcony. We choose a beam of a small section, 30x30 mm and 30x40 mm are suitable. We take a beam of a larger section if we insulate the walls.

U-shaped plastic profiles have many advantages: low cost, convenience and ease of installation, light weight, resistance to moisture and high temperatures. We fix the profiles every 30 cm with dowels and self-tapping screws. We join the profiles at a certain angle, cut the material with a hacksaw and a construction miter box, which makes it possible to obtain even cuts that fit snugly together. An additional advantage of plastic profiles is the presence of cable channels formed due to internal grooves that can be used for laying wires and communications. Due to the thinness of the plastic frame, you can save several centimeters of the internal area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

The metal frame is more used for fixing drywall, as it is heavier. If a metal frame is used, corrugated PVC pipes should be used to lay the wiring cables to protect the wire braid from the sharp edges of the metal frame and increase fire safety.

To perform the work, we prepare the tools:

perforator or drill;
hacksaw;
construction miter box;
sharp knife;
roulette;
building level;
a hammer.

We mark the walls and assemble the frame - how to get started?

Depending on the direction of finishing, the crate can be mounted vertically or horizontally; accordingly, we apply markings. Since at the junction of the ceiling and plates we will install decorative plinth PVC, pre-drill holes for dowels under the ceiling with a puncher or drill to install the strips on which we will mount the baseboard. Similarly, we make holes for attaching corner strips. Before mounting the frame, you need to consider where hanging cabinets, shelves or other decorative elements will hang. In these places we fasten additional bars horizontally. Process before installation wooden details antiseptic agents.

In order to avoid distortions, which will give the wall an unsightly appearance, we fasten the crate, strictly observing horizontality and verticality with the help of a level. The slats of the frame must lie in the same plane. In order not to try on each rail, we make markings on the wall.

We place the bottom row 1-2 cm above the floor level. We make a mark on the wall with a pencil and draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter using the level. We draw the same horizontal line under the ceiling or mark the edge of the finish if the finish is not up to the ceiling. Further, for the horizontal fastening of the frame, we measure 40–50 cm from the lower horizontal line and draw a new line parallel to it along the perimeter. Similarly, we apply parallel horizontal lines to the ceiling.

We fix the panels to the frame perpendicularly. If it is necessary to fix the plastic horizontally, we assemble a vertical frame. To do this, we apply the first line on the wall from ceiling to floor, measuring the distance from the corner, using a plumb line or level. Then we make markings for the second corner. Between the corners we draw the remaining parallel lines with a step of 50 cm.

Professionals recommend marking walls not only with a level and marks, but also using an ordinary rope of small thickness for quick marking. It is done simply. We paint the rope with colored crayons, apply it to the wall, colored marks from the chalk will remain at the points of contact. This method will speed up the marking and save time on preparatory work.

According to the marking at a distance of half a meter from each other, we drill holes for the dowels, then we apply the rails and fix them on the wall with fixing material. If the walls are uneven, level the plane of the frame with wooden wedges. If necessary, hide the wiring under the trim. To do this, we drill holes in the wall, with the help of clamps we fix the wires on the wall. We pay attention that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the frame.

Step by step installation of plastic panels

If it is necessary to insulate the walls, we put a heater between the bars of the frame. In this case, it should be taken into account that we take the cross section of the beam, respectively, with the thickness of the heat insulator. As a heat-insulating material, you can use polystyrene plates, which we fasten with an adhesive solution, additionally fixing them with special dowels - "fungi". Then, on top of the crate with insulation, we attach a vapor barrier film.

We start the installation of PVC panels on the wall from the corner where we fix the starting bar. Insert the crest of the first plastic lamella into the groove of this plank. If necessary, we adjust the plastic elements in length by cutting them with a hacksaw. From the back side, we fix the panel on the frame using a stapler with special brackets. Next, we install the second panel in the groove of the first, we make sure that the elements are in close contact. Then securely fix them to the crate. For maximum sealing, silicone is applied to the joints before installation.

By analogy, we fasten the remaining lamellas. We insert the last panel into the groove of the pre-installed finishing strip. If the width of the lamella is too large, cut it to the required size, but not more than a third of the width. Under the sockets and switches in the panels, we pre-cut holes of appropriate sizes. After installing the lamellas, we close the holes with boxes.

When the walls are completely sheathed, they must be monolithic, flat surface without gaps at the seams and perimeter. To do this, we install special plastic moldings at the seams, in the corners and at the joints. Thanks to their design, the edges of the panels can be inserted from both sides, which makes the corners more visually appealing.

When decorating walls with PVC slabs with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

If we attach the lamellas to the frame, we do not level the surface of the walls to an ideal state, we eliminate only significant defects. This makes it possible to save on finishing work.
We fix the wooden crate only with the help of galvanized dowels and self-tapping screws.
The first trim elements must be perfectly aligned, because they will align the rest of the panels. If the first panel is installed crookedly, the entire skin will be uneven.
Materials before installation must lie down. If cladding work is carried out in summer season, the plastic is kept at room temperature for 12 hours. AT winter period this period is increased to two days if the material was stored at a temperature of -10 degrees.
If PVC lamellas are installed in a room with high humidity, we make ventilation cuts in the frame.
It is necessary to unpack the panels very carefully, as they are unstable to mechanical damage. We take out the lamellas from the packaging by the edge and only separately.
To make the cuts neat, a hacksaw should be used with fine teeth, it is better to take a hacksaw for metal.
When installing panels with a pattern, we start the sheathing from the left corner, moving sequentially to the right.

The quality of the interior decoration with plastic plates depends on the evenness of the installation of the frame. The slats should be adjusted as tightly as possible, then the surface will look perfectly flat. If you follow the recommendations, the sheathing will be neat and will last a long time, making the premises attractive and cozy.

Wall decoration with plastic panels is widespread. After lowering prices for seamless panels, which allow you to create a solid-looking plane, you can talk about the "plastic wave" in interior decoration.

However, there is foam on the wave: at first glance, there is an abundance of information about finishing plastic, but it is often distorted, and some significant points are obscured. Therefore, solving the question: “Maybe sheathe the walls with plastic panels?” It doesn't hurt to deal with them without prejudice.

plastic as is

The truth about plastic

Plastic panels are harmless

It's right. Chemists-technologists have long since learned to produce high-quality plastics without cadmium, asbestos and other toxic and harmful impurities. Safe technologies for the production of plastics have also turned out to be simpler and cheaper than the previous ones, so only fanatics of the “conspiracy theory” can be afraid of fakes.

Plastic panels are beautiful

It is truth too. Modern range of prefabricated decorative coatings plastic is wide and rich, just look at the pictures.

Plastic trim is now "homemade"

And that's right. Seamless (more precisely, apparently seamless) plastic panels allow you to get an interior that is completely non-office look, see fig.

Plastic is easy to make "personal" and "open"

True again. Photographic quality images can be applied to the plastic coating by thermal printing, painted, glued with self-adhesive, see the first selection of illustrations. This allows, for example, to make a do-it-yourself living room individual, and create an effect in the bathroom or bedroom. panoramic window(images can be 3D), without starting a complex, troublesome and expensive redevelopment and without giving the opportunity to spy on yourself.

Plastic is convenient for inconveniences

Again true. For any designer headache – different kind housing inconveniences: niches, corners, etc. There is little light and space in them. It often happens that, having suffered enough with the layout, the author is discouraged by the question of the builders: “Listen, man, how can we do this? This is not for you to sharpen iron on a machine! Plastic panels have the precision of a machine-turned hardware, and by working with inconveniences, the designer can apply any solutions suitable to the case, obtaining a completely acceptable end result, see fig.

Plastic makes it easy to change decor

Truth. If the panel is pierced with a sewing needle at an angle from top to bottom, and then an unbent paper clip is inserted into the puncture, then such a hook will withstand from 1 to 3 kg, depending on the quality of the paper clip. 2 punctures are allowed on a plastic board, i.e. a heavy oil painting on wood in a baguette frame can be hung several times. In the same way - drapery, brackets for curtains, lambrequins, etc. And if you walk along the released puncture from the bottom up with a coffee or teaspoon, pressing it with your finger, then the hole will be completely smoothed out.

Plastic is consistent with the technique

Another truth. Ventilation grilles, also plastic or metal, sockets, etc. even on the most painted plastic they look quite natural.

Plastic racks and durable

And it is true. In the bathroom or on a "cold" balcony, PVC with minimal care lasts 10-12 years or more. You just need to remember to clean it from time to time: dust eats into the plastic, as in everything in general, and the tone with the pattern “gets dirty”.

Myths about plastic

Plastic will go on any wall

Indeed, from the walls under the plastic, it seems to be enough to tear off the tatters of wallpaper and knock down the swollen plaster. But the crate still needs to be leveled! Otherwise, they will go to play an ugly glare, the joints of the “seamless” panels will not converge, the curvature of the baseboards will be striking, and in the end what the finishers call “lining” will come out. The device of the crate on an uneven wall may turn out to be cleaner, but no less laborious than its re-plastering. But, unlike plaster, the crate on an unprepared wall often “floats” and again it turns out to be a “lining”.

Plastic does not require skill

Again not true. end results, shown in the figures, require the possession of subtle methods of work and a special expensive tool. Attempts to get by with a hacksaw for metal, a square and a drill end with a "lining".

Plastic is hygienic

Perfect lie. First of all, plastic walls do not breathe - do not have the proper ratio of moisture resistance to vapor permeability. Breathable walls are a must in the bedroom: don't wait without them healthy sleep, relaxation, and what happens in the bedroom besides sleep and relaxation. Therefore, the bedroom can be finished with plastic only partially, in the form of decorative panels.

Secondly, plastic glares and polarizes reflected light. This immediately excludes plastic trim for children: medicine with psychology is strictly prohibited.

Finally, the plastic is really easy to clean, and the seams of the "seamless" panels are so narrow that dirt does not accumulate there. But each plastic board is a spatial thin-walled hollow structure with stiffening ribs inside. The voids in the panels are an attractive nesting place for small house evil spirits. In the southern regions, rich in entomofauna (insects), when dismantling the old plastic sheathing, it used to squirt out of it so that the red-haired kid-installer suddenly found himself sitting on the closet, with bulging eyes and a gaping mouth, and could not explain how he jumped in there from a place without a run or what brought him there.

Some craftsmen sometimes try to seal the ends of the boards, partially filling the grooves of the installation profiles with silicone before installation. Bitter disappointment awaits them: deprived of the opportunity to freely thermally deform (see below), the boards warp, turning into a “lining”.

Plastic is not flammable

The biggest lie. Yes, it is very difficult to set fire to PVC with a filler, and it is simply impossible with a match or a lighter. But, once in the fire, it perfectly supports the flame, while releasing a huge amount of very toxic gases.

Therefore, if the apartment caught fire - God forbid anyone! - and with weak or moderate smoke, an unbearable pain in the eyes is felt, the “chemical” smell eats the nostrils and tears the throat, immediately stop extinguishing and run out to Fresh air, leaving his good to the mercy of the flame. And do not forget to immediately call an ambulance - the poisoning process can begin to develop in full force after a few hours, when medicine is already powerless.

Video: sellers about plastic

What are they silent about?

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), from which plastic panels are made, has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE). Therefore, the walls should be finished with PVC panels with a thermal gap of half the width of the narrow shelf of the installation profile, see below, and the fastening of the boards to the crate should allow reversible elastic deformations in the plane of the board.

Example: from floor to ceiling - 2540 mm. The width of the narrow profile shelf is 12 mm; its wall thickness is 1.5 mm. There are two profiles, on the floor and under the ceiling, so you need to take into account the double wall thickness, but the width of the shelf - only ONCE. We have: 2540 - 2x1.5 - 6 = 2531 mm. This is the length you need to cut the boards.

When installing boards on a soft crate or on a wooden crate, this condition is met, but when fastening with self-tapping screws to a metal crate, it is highly desirable to use thermal washers, see fig. This complicates and increases the cost of work, but without thermal washers in a hot, humid summer in a room without air conditioning, one or several boards at once can suddenly bounce off by themselves with a bang. Especially often such cases were observed in the abnormally hot summer of 2010.

For laminate and MDF, in such a case, special mounting brackets are provided - clamps that firmly hold the board on any crate, while at the same time allowing it to “fidget” a little along. But MDF with laminate does not expand much from heat anyway, and the design of plastic panels, unfortunately, does not allow them to be fixed with adhesives.

Design

The design of the elements of finishing with PVC panels is shown in the figure.

Explanations:

Tool

Installation of PVC panels on walls requires a set of special tools:

Note: when choosing a stapler for plastic, you need to ensure that the slot through which the staples are squeezed out is located as close as possible to its toe. This will greatly facilitate the installation of the last board.

Plastic installation

In general, wall cladding with PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

Arrange a crate;
Install the start, finish and guide profiles;
The first board is brought into the lower installation profile, and then, having arched into the upper one, the small mounting shelf should be facing the starting profile;
With a mallet with the rule, they bring the board into the starting profile to the place;
Attach the board to the crate through a large mounting shelf in one way or another;
The rest of the boards are also mounted, including the penultimate one;
The last board is cut from the side of the LARGE fastening shelf to the size in width, it is necessary to give a margin for thermal expansion, see the example above;
Having unbent the shelf of the finishing profile (if it is non-separable) with a spatula, they lead the lower end of the last board into the groove of the installation profile and into the finish one, this work requires a skilled assistant, and preferably two;
Alternately bending back sections of the narrow shelf of the finishing profile with spatulas, a board is inserted into it to the upper corner;
In the upper corner, the shelves of the finishing and mounting profiles are simultaneously bent with two spatulas, and the board is finally brought up;
Also alternately bending the shelf of the finishing profile, they fix the board together with the profile to the crate;
install plinths.

Notes:

When using a special finishing profile, all the difficulties of operations 8-11 come down to applying and snapping its shelf.

A cheap profile from all these manipulations, it happens, remains bent or cracks along the edge of the corner. You can easily fix the defect - warm up the damaged place with a household hair dryer and immediately iron it with pressure with a COLD iron with a Teflon sole.

For the sake of beauty, the profiles are cut exactly to size along the wall, and then their ends in the miter box are cut at 45 degrees. An option is to wipe the cracks with PVC putty or a homemade compound. For him, plastic sawdust is kneaded on dichloroethane until the dough is thick. Prepare in small portions as needed, the mixture is not stored.

If the crate was carelessly aligned, the last board will immediately show this - its edge will bend outward. It turned out to be a "fake".

crate

Lathing based on a metal profile

They are made from wooden slats or metal C-profiles, see fig. Insulating mats can be laid in the cells. They are fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws in dowels, through or through with clamps or mustaches. The latter is more troublesome, but cheaper: all the work can be done on self-tapping screws - "fleas". Level with a plumb line and bubble level 2, also see fig; rubber or plywood scraps will go to the gaskets.

The battens are quite simple linear, without intersecting logs, with a step of 300-500 mm. But an important condition: the perimeters of both the wall and the openings in it must be completely framed, see the crate diagram. There should be no hanging ends of the log, the exception is the protrusion of the window sill, under it you will have to cut a notch in the panel adjacent to it.

Video: installation of plastic panels on a wooden crate

slopes

- a real headache for plastic finishers. "Dull" corners are not produced, and if they were, then where to get slopes with exactly the right angles for them?

Do-it-yourselfers and pros offer many ways to cover the slope with plastic, but they all come down to making the slope angle straight. However, SNiP with sanitary regulations they say clearly and unambiguously: the slope must have the so-called. dawn slope, expand inward.

Meanwhile, a very simple method of decorating slopes with plastic has long been practiced, see fig:

We sew both sides of the slope to the corner; allow an indent of half the width of the corner shelf.
We take an ordinary right angle and cut it along the length of the side of the slope with a margin of 40-60 mm in both directions.
We cut one of the shelves of the corner equally at both ends exactly along the length of the edge of the slope angle, pos. BUT.
From the slope angle, draw a line with a pencil at 45 degrees, pos. B.
We apply a corner to the angle of the slope, press it strongly and, following the trace of the line, mark the cut line on it, pos B.
We cut off the excess with a profile cutter or garden pruner.
We cut the edge of the corner from the INSIDE with a mounting knife or a shoe-blade knife by about 1/3 of the thickness of the material.
We apply glue or a home-made dichloroethane compound from the inside to the corner.
Apply, press until it opens as it should, wait for setting - ready.

Soft crate

The installation of plastic panels on a soft crate seems flimsy, but in fact it is precisely such sheathing, which came out from under the hands of the greenest, but neat beginners, that stand for 10-15 years without signs of damage. Why? Soft crate is made of double-sided foam tape, see fig. In terms of thermal deformation properties, it exactly matches PVC, and its adhesive layer is very viscous and elastic: it stretches for the board, and then returns it to its place.

In order for the sheathing on a soft crate to come out really reliable, three conditions must be met:

Clean the wall from wallpaper, paint and level with a rough, durable putty (Hercules, Prospector, etc.) to the nearest half of the adhesive tape thickness, 2-4 mm. Sharp small protrusions and depressions are acceptable, so that the putty, which is already not difficult, is still simplified.
Stock up on a high-quality finishing profile; without it, sheathing on a soft crate cannot be done. However, see penultimate section.
As much as possible, to an instant, reduce the contact time of the adhesive layer of adhesive tape with air. This is what needs to be discussed in more detail.

Lathing installation

The crate scheme is the same as for the others. It is better to take the width of the adhesive tape from 25 mm, and best of all - from 60 mm. Technology:

Installing profiles

The principle is the same - the shortest possible contact of "bare" tape with air:

The long tails of the protective tape are pulled back and the strips are stuck to the "back" with ordinary, narrow and cheap, stationery tape;
They impose the upper installation profile (horizontal), carefully pull out the protective tape from under it by the tail, immediately sticking the profile with pressure, the assistant supports it;
The bottom mounting profile is also glued;
The starting profile (vertical) is applied, the assistant holds it, and the master pulls out the protective tape from under the profile, immediately pressing the profile to the tape, the operation goes from the bottom up so that the profile does not even hang on the tape for a short time;
The finishing profile is also set.

Panel mounting

Panels are mounted similarly to profiles, but with some subtleties.

PVC wall panels are the easiest, fastest and most economical way to finish. Polyvinyl chloride has a number of properties that contribute to its long-term operation as finishing material for any premises (bathrooms, balconies, living rooms, offices and shops). Wall decoration with PVC panels - not so hard work, anyone who knows how to use a hammer, level and screwdriver can handle it.

About how to fix PVC panels to the wall, how the battens are installed and what qualities PVC tiles for walls have - in this article.

What are wall panels

PVC panels are often used in modern renovations, they are mounted both on walls and on ceilings. Wall decoration with "lining" is carried out very quickly, and the cost of such repairs will be significantly lower than tiles or drywall, for example.

The panels consist of an upper decorative layer, dense plastic on the wrong side and thin plastic partitions acting as stiffeners.

Of the advantages of PVC panels, as wall finishes, it can be noted:

the material is suitable for finishing any premises (with high humidity, with temperature fluctuations, with high traffic);
lamellas are easy to clean with a damp cloth, do not absorb odors, they do not leave stains;
the light weight of the material facilitates its transportation and installation;
a huge range of textures and colors (you can find wood, stone, tile, plain, multi-colored, glossy or matte lamellas);
conformity sanitary standards- the material is not susceptible to infection by mold and fungus, living microorganisms do not develop in it, bacteria do not accumulate;
the ability to hide communications and electrical wiring under the finish;
fire safety - the material does not burn, but melts;
simple installation of PVC panels, which is easy to do on your own;
long service life - the finish does not fade over time, does not turn yellow and does not deform;
thanks to the internal chambers, the panels soundproof and insulate the room.

Advice! If the room needs additional insulation, the air gaps inside the lamellas can be filled with any heat-insulating material.

When purchasing material for wall decoration, you need to pay attention to its quality:

panels should not be too light;
the shade and pattern on the decorative surface must be uniform and clear;
each lamella must contain a sufficient number of internal partitions, because they provide material rigidity;
it is better to choose material from the same batch so that there are no color mismatches;
along with the panels, you need to buy moldings - decorative elements that cover the joints, corners, slopes and cut lines of polyvinyl chloride.

The main and, probably, the only drawback of PVC panels is their fragility - the material is quite easy to damage under mechanical stress. Therefore, the cladding must be transported with care and carefully fasten the PVC panels.

How to install PVC panels

Wall cladding with plastic panels can be done in two main ways:

Directly on the wall with glue.
On a wooden or metal crate.

PVC panels can only be glued to a very even and smooth surface. If the wall in the room is just like that, then wall cladding will take quite a bit of time and effort. You can’t say much about how to glue the panels - they are simply applied to the wall, leading the upper edge into the ceiling molding, and the joint line and the back wall are coated with special glue for plastic.

How to properly attach plastic to the crate

The type of crate largely depends on the purpose of the room and the climate inside it. For wet and cold rooms (bath, kitchen, balcony, pantry), a metal profile crate is more suitable. The same profile that is used for the installation of drywall sheets will do.

For other rooms, you can use wooden bars. In this case, you will need a special tool to cut the tree to the desired size.

Attention! For wet rooms, a wooden frame can also be used, but before installation it must be treated with an antiseptic and dried thoroughly.

In the installation of the crate, it is especially important to observe the level. Regardless of how the panels will be located (vertically or horizontally), the frame must be absolutely even. Then there will be no distortions, crooked joints and plastic protrusion.

Installation of the crate on the wall

Before attaching a profile or wooden blocks to the walls, the surface must be prepared. To begin with, the wall is cleaned of the old finish: the wallpaper is removed, the paint is removed, and so on.

Tap the plaster and determine weak spots, they must be removed and replaced with a new layer of plaster mixture. They also repair cracks, chips and other major damage to the walls. The surface should not be perfectly smooth, however, the smoother the wall, the easier it will be for the master to fill the crate with high quality.

The metal profile or bars are cut to size, having previously determined the location of the PVC panels.

Attention! If it is decided to mount the panels horizontally, then the guide battens should be located in the opposite direction, that is, vertically. The reverse rule also applies: with a vertical arrangement, the “lining” of the profile is mounted in a horizontal plane.

It is necessary to start the installation of the vertical crate from the corner of the room. To do this, use a plumb line in one of the corners to draw a straight line. Relative to this straight line, the profile will be mounted.

With a horizontal crate, zero strips should be fixed at a level of 1-2 cm from the floor and ceiling. If it is supposed to sheathe the ceiling with “lining”, you need to leave a margin of a few extra millimeters.

Most often, PVC panels are mounted vertically, which reduces material consumption and simplifies installation. In addition, the range of such panels is much wider.

A special molding is attached under the ceiling, into the grooves of which the upper edges of all panels will be wound. Then you need to drill holes in the wall with a puncher relative to the drawn line. The step between the holes should be no more than 15 cm.

The first profile or bar is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels. Its evenness must be checked by the building level. Departing from the first profile of 50 cm, you can install the second one. Installation continues until the opposite edge of the wall is reached - the floor or ceiling line.

How to install panels on the crate

The "lining" begins to be mounted from the angle that is opposite to the doorway. It is this corner of the room that will always be in sight, it must be lined with special accuracy.

A corner molding is installed directly into the corner (there are moldings for both internal and external corners, as well as universal parts). The part is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Now you need to fix the first panel. First, measure the desired height of the lamella (distance from the floor to the ceiling) and bring its upper edge into the ceiling molding. There are latches on both sides of the panel: on the left - narrow, on the right - wide. A narrow latch is inserted into the groove of the corner molding until it stops, and wide locks are designed to install fasteners. A self-tapping screw is screwed into them, a nail is hammered in, or special clip-clips are used.

The installed panel is checked using a level. If all is well, you can mount the second part. Thus, the installation of PVC panels continues until the opposite corner of the wall is reached.

Here, almost always, the panel will have to be cut vertically. To do this, use a hacksaw. The edge is led into the end, corner or universal molding to hide the cut line. The last panel is not fastened with screws or clamps - it is enough that the molding holds it.

To further strengthen the joints, the edges of each panel can be lightly lubricated with silicone sealant.

To beautifully process door and window slopes, the panels are carefully cut and their edges are covered with decorative overlays. Places for sockets and switches are pre-cut in the panels with sharp scissors or a hacksaw, after installation they are covered with decorative overlays.

After all the walls are lined, you need to check the installation level again. The lower edges of the plastic panels are covered with a plinth.

Installing PVC panels is quite simple. Absolutely no difficulties will arise when the walls in the room are even and smooth - the panels are simply mounted on glue. However, you need to understand that it will be quite difficult to replace a damaged panel and, moreover, completely dismantle the cladding during the next repair - the panels will have to be torn off along with pieces of plaster.

Mounting plastic panels on the frame is more difficult, it will take more time and increase costs. But, if necessary, you can remove the damaged panel very quickly and “painlessly” for the rest of the coating. In any case, wall decoration with PVC panels is the easiest and most cheap way upgrade the room.