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Assembly drawings of sliding wardrobes. Instructions on how to make a do-it-yourself wardrobe from chipboard at no extra cost Do-it-yourself wardrobe drawings with dimensions

There is no doubt, you will do an excellent job with this task. The most important thing is to correctly make all the calculations of the parameters of the future cabinet, the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will help you with this. And, of course, where without diligence and patience, tune in to a positive result - and you will succeed.

Step-by-step instruction

First, decide how you want to see your new wardrobe. If you have good artistic skills, try creating an image on paper, even better if it is a drawing of future furniture. To make it easier for you, you can use the example given in this article. Instructions on how to make a cabinet yourself will be described in detail here. The design of the furniture will be such that to create it, you will need a wall niche in your apartment. This type of furniture is very relevant, since the built-in wardrobe is roomy and does not take up extra space in the apartment.

Figure 1. Marking the vertical plane of the front of the cabinet.

The material for the future cabinet should be selected in accordance with the length and depth of your niche, the height of the ceiling is also taken into account. For this example, a chipboard with a laminated coating is most suitable. In an abridged version, this construction material known as chipboard. In order to build a cabinet, you will need a material that is approximately 16 mm thick. The construction market offers chipboard of various sizes, in this case 600 x 2440 is most suitable. A material of this size is convenient for the manufacture of all elements of the future cabinet.

What is the built-in wardrobe? First of all, these are doors, which are a furniture facade, then a pair of load-bearing racks, shelves and basement elements. In this example, the simplest option for assembling a cabinet with a solid facade will be described.

In order to make the cabinet yourself, you will need to go through the following stages of work: evaluate the niche, mark the plane of the facade of the future cabinet, mount vertical racks, make and install the roof, shelves, cornices, plinths and doors.

In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:

electric planer;
level;
screwdriwer set;
roulette;
pencil;
drill;
grinder or sandpaper for grinding;
self-tapping screws;
glue;
sheets of chipboard.

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Niche and its dimensions

In the example given in this article, the size of the niche will be 3000 x 600 x 2650 mm. The length is 3 m, the depth is 0.6 m, and the ceiling height is 2.65 m.

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Cabinet front plane

A very important stage in the assembly of the cabinet is the marking of the vertical plane of the facade, look carefully at fig. 1. The fact is that the installation of all supporting racks in a vertical position is carried out on the basis of this markup.

When dimensioning the front plane, keep in mind that when installing vertical posts, gaps should not form along the walls.

Figure 2. Marking the farthest point (in the upper right corner).

To avoid this, select a plate of the most suitable size. In this example, a 60 cm wide slab is shown. In this regard, it is necessary to mark the farthest point on the intended plane. In order for you to correctly understand how to act, pay attention to the following figure. 2.

In the above example, the same point is marked on the right side of the upper corner. To all the remaining points of the vertical position racks are attached and, at the same time, decrease in width. In order to make it convenient to mount the vertical racks, you should draw a projection of the plane of the future cabinet in the form of a straight line. To do this, you can use a pencil or chalk. The niche indicated in this example has a length of 3 m. It is very important that the floor in the room is as flat as possible (in order to make sure of this, you should use the level). The next step is to install the racks.

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Vertical racks and their installation

Rack installation starts at the lowest point on your floor. Use the level to find it. In the case of a not perfectly flat floor and with the lowest point, for example, located on the left side, the installation of racks must be started from this place. The cabinet shown in this example will have a roof that is separate from the ceiling, since the length of the main plate is 2440 mm.

Markings should be applied to the floor, along which you have to set the verticals. To simplify the task, use the one shown in Fig. 3 drawing.

Here you can choose one of two ways:

calculate the pitch of the racks, while taking into account the width of each door of your future cabinet;
equal distances between the uprights in this case should be set "by eye". Then the doors are sawn at the same width. In the example given in this text, the cabinet will not have exactly equal distances between upright racks.

Figure 3. Scheme of mounting vertical racks.

The fact is that you have to install the doors with the help of hinges, and they will make it possible to completely cover the edges of the racks with a door. When installing doors on intermediate posts, it will be necessary to use other hinges that will cover only a third of the vertical post. Thus, the distance between the second and third posts you will get 8 mm more (an example is shown in the previous figure).

According to the cabinet assembly example given in the text, the next step is to install a vertical rack from the left edge. The vertical should be placed on the floor, using the leveling method, exclude its protrusion beyond the facade plane. To do this, it is worth arming yourself with an electric plane and a level. The rack must be level on both sides. Next, draw a line on the wall, which should correspond to the size of the end of the rack, and then temporarily remove the vertical rack. A horizontal line is drawn along the entire length of the niche from the previously drawn line using a level. Thus, it is necessary to adjust each individual rack of the cabinet, focusing on the original height.

The next stage of work will be the installation of finished racks. To do this, you will need corners (it is better to use chrome). A minimum of 5 elements must be used for any vertical rack. With a couple of corners, the vertical is screwed to the floor, the rest will be needed for fastening to the wall. For the correct placement of the corners, mark the location of future cabinet shelves. The corners should be screwed to the panels using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16. Installation to the wall is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16, plastic dowels 6 x 35.

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Fabrication and installation of the cabinet roof

Using this text as an example, the upper part of the structure will be made of two elements. The roof measures 800 x 2958 mm and the additional element will measure 200 x 2958 mm. Thus, the thickness of the visor will increase. The design of the roof of the cabinet shown in fig. 4, as you can see, has an arcuate visor. Its radius is 12.7 m.

Figure 4. Construction of the cabinet roof.

In order to cut the arc, you will need a jigsaw, all uneven surface areas should be carefully sanded. The top of the cabinet is almost finished, next it should be used as a template in order to make the overlay. Using PVC edges, the edges of the main element and the additional lining are glued.

The radius edges of the parts should also be glued. To do this, you will need a PVC edge and glue (you can use liquid nails glue). The glue should be applied in a strip of about 1 m. In the next step, the edge should be glued to the end of the panel. Proceeding in this way, paste the rest. Using a piece of cotton fabric, the edge is gently smoothed to the plate. Next, using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 35, it is necessary to pull off the cabinet roof and additional panel.

After you have completely prepared the roof for installation, proceed with its installation to uprights. To attach the roof to each rack, you will need two corners. In this case, the distance between the edge of the corner and the front edge should not be less than 16 mm.

Having sorted out our drawings and understanding which part is from what, we begin the assembly.

Having picked up the diameter of the drill for holes for comfort, pick up a drill, start drilling holes. Drill holes symmetrically so as not to spoil appearance closet.

Using a screwdriver, assemble the cabinet frame into comfortable formats.

Next, you need to strengthen the doors with canopies (if the door system is conventional) or fasten the guides (if you have sliding doors).

Then, in those places where there will be shelves and drawers, make markings for shelf supports and guides for drawers. The markings must be accurate so that the shelves and drawers are not awry, but run parallel.

After marking, drill the appropriate holes and screw the shelf supports and drawer rails.

After collecting the closet, bring it appearance to the ideal. As you can see, there is not enough edge along the seams of chipboard. Grab an iron and a towel. Gently attach the edge to the chipboard and glue it with an iron through a towel.

Having pasted the edge, take it in hand sharp knife and gently, slowly, start cutting off the excess edge.

Finally, put the plugs on the comforts.

Now you can be congratulated! You have become the owner of a beautiful wardrobe made by yourself.

Using these instructions and your imagination, you can independently make a cabinet with lighting inside, with built-in lights, or with an ordinary mirror on the doors. Having gathered courage, you are able to create a wardrobe of any design and complexity. There is nothing difficult, as you can see, in this!

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Detailing a homemade wardrobe

The following dimensions are determined based on the use of laminated chipboard. Board thickness - 18 mm. A self-adhesive 0.5 mm melamine edge is also used. For facades, you can use the standard sliding system. It can be bought in specialized stores ready-made or ordered according to your size. Facade system as a result is several times cheaper than a finished cabinet. As an example, we will consider how to make a do-it-yourself cabinet with a height of 2284 mm and a width of 1164 mm. These are the dimensions of the clean opening under the door. you can adjust the dimensions to suit your needs.

Drawers are mounted on the so-called. full roll-out guides from a trusted manufacturer.

It is impossible to use roller guides for the inner drawers of a home-made cabinet, because. they take up a lot of space and do not withstand heavy loads.

Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances and requirements, even those that, on the surface, may seem insignificant. It is important to do everything right, because. it will take a lot of time, effort and nerves to remake.

The photo shows a two-tone wardrobe made by hand. The purchase of two types of boards is justified when a set of cabinet furniture is made, however, when assembling one product, different trimmings remain. color scheme choose at your discretion.

You will need the following materials:
2 boards 240x65 cm for the sidewalls of a homemade cabinet. It is better to prepare a sample for the plinth in advance, so that the finished cabinet will fit right up to the wall.

1 board 228.4x55 cm for the partition. Immediately mark the right and left sides on it;

1 board 120x75 cm for top cover. This board should be rounded and protrude forward 10 cm in relation to the sidewalls - it’s more beautiful;

1 board 116.4x65 cm for the bottom;

2 boards 116.4x10 cm - plinths;

3 boards 50x55 cm for the left shelves from the side of the drawers;

3 boards 64.6x55 cm for the right shelves;

2 boards 49.5x20 cm for drawer fronts;

4 boards 50x15 cm for the sides of the boxes;

4 boards 43.8x15 cm for the back and front walls of the drawers.

You will also need hardboard blanks:

231.5x119.5 cm for the back wall;

2 parts 47.2x50 cm for the bottom of the boxes.

Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

drill;

perforator;

level;

roulette;

hammer;

glue;

self-tapping screws;

dowel;

hacksaw for metal and wood.

The bars for the hangers are sawn off from a single product with a diameter of 22 mm. This product can be purchased at a store specializing in the sale of furniture fittings. The same store sells end fasteners for rods. A single rod is cut into parts, the length of which should be 1 mm less than the width of the shelves, i.e. specifically in this case, 645 and 499 mm. This gap is needed for greater ease of installation.

Drawer handles can also be bought at a store that sells furniture fittings. Choose beautiful handles that will fit well into the interior of the room.

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Part preparation

To saw off all the necessary details with the required accuracy, you need, first of all, a circular saw equipped with a disc with victorious soldering. If you do not have this tool, the best option is to order sawing in some hardware store specializing in the sale of hardboard and chipboard, or in companies that manufacture custom-made cabinet furniture - this is very inexpensive.

And on gluing the edges, you can save a lot by doing everything yourself. The edge is very cheap and is quite simply attached to the surface with an iron.

Turn on the iron to ¾ of its highest power and follow the instructions. Attach the edge of the selected color with the adhesive side to the end, then iron it. Repeat several times. Then iron the edge with a soft, dry cloth, trying to press the edges as tightly as possible, and cut off the excess with a dull knife. It is advisable to use dull knife This will reduce the risk of damage to the laminate. For roughness, use fine-grained sandpaper wrapped around, for example, a small wooden block or any other similar object.

Any wardrobe, and especially one that is made by hand, must be durable and reliable. However, at the same time, the available ordinary people fasteners. The best solution are confirmations. The size of confirmations may differ, in the case of this cabinet, products with a length of 7 cm and a diameter of 0.5 cm are suitable. How fasteners are made is shown in the following image: Fig. 2.

Through holes are made into the plane, into the end - to a depth of about 60 mm. In this case, the diameter of the holes should be 8 mm and 5 mm, respectively.

The boxes are assembled as shown in the following image: Fig. 3.

It is most reliable to make all the shelves of the cabinet stationary. If desired, several shelves can be made removable by arranging them on the shelves. However, in this case, as practice shows, you have to drill new holes almost every time you need to shift something in the closet.

By purchasing a ready-made wardrobe or making it to order, you overpay at least 50% of its cost. In fact, the cost of manufacturing a wardrobe is approximately 20-30% of the amount indicated on the price tag. At the same time, you can design and assemble a cabinet with your own hands, without having special knowledge and tools.

The sliding wardrobe is made on technology of cabinet furniture. The essence of the technology lies in the fact that all elements of the cabinet have a structural and functional role at the same time. All elements of the cabinet, except for the doors and the back wall, are made of laminated chipboard. The back wall is made of MDF. Doors can be made from various materials, however, mirror or glass, or a combination of both, is most popular. Often a mirror or glass is decorated with a pattern.

Fig.1.

There are two types of wardrobes: regular and built-in. In terms of design, these types of cabinets are different. The built-in cabinet has two main differences: the absence of a plinth and visible structural elements of the cabinet. Usually a built-in wardrobe is installed in a wall niche.

Fig.2.

Wardrobe design

The design of a sliding wardrobe begins with the determination of the overall dimensions. In this case, the height of the cabinet is usually less than the height of the room by about 5 - 10 cm, in which the cabinet is installed. The length of the cabinet depends on your preferences and the free space of the room.

Separately, it should be said about the width of the cabinet. The traditional width (depth) of a wardrobe is 60 cm. This width of the wardrobe is enough to hang clothes on a hanger across the wardrobe. However, the width can be made arbitrary. Usually, with a lack of space in the room, the wardrobe is made 40 - 50 cm wide. In this case, clothes can be hung across the wardrobe; there are special hangers for this purpose.

Fig.3.

Having defined dimensions closet, you can start creating a drawing. At this stage, you can draw the body (side and top walls) and the base of the cabinet (cabinet floor).

Traditionally, the floor of the cabinet is 5 cm from the floor of the room. This design forms a plinth. From the front of the closet, the space between the floor of the closet and the floor of the room is closed with a plank of the same material from which the closet is made. Wherein the bar is recessed into the depth of the cabinet by 1-2 cm.

Fig.4.

Thus, we got the frame of the wardrobe. It is important to note that now there are overall dimensions inner space closet. For the design under consideration, they are: length 1968 mm, height 2518 mm. Based on these dimensions, you can begin to design shelves and partitions (filling the cabinet).

The filling of the wardrobe can be arbitrary, we will consider the possible options below. First, a few words should be said about the traditional approach and features of some of the structural elements of the wardrobe.

wardrobe doors- This is a sliding structure, which consists of at least 2 doors. To move and fasten doors, a special mechanism is used, consisting of several elements. Two important points should be noted: the size of the doors and the dimensions of the required space for installing the doors.

Unlike the cabinet itself, sliding doors, as already mentioned, consist of several elements: a rail, a rail, a profile and a door insert. All necessary accessories for manufacturing sliding doors wardrobe can be purchased separately. However, if the elements of the cabinet and its assembly can be done by hand, then cabinet doors are best custom made. This is due to the complexity of manufacturing sliding doors, especially in the presence of mirrors and glass elements. To order sliding doors, you just need inner dimensions closet. And, of course, you will have to choose the design of the doors.

Second important point is the overall dimensions of the sliding doors, the dimensions of the internal shelves depend on this. Traditionally, 10 cm of cabinet space is allocated for the installation of compartment doors. Thus, regardless of the filling option, the width of the shelves will be 10 cm less than the width of the cabinet. In our case, 50 cm.

Fig.5.

Filling the closet

Before describing some of the most popular options for filling a wardrobe, consider a standard option that is suitable for any wardrobe - these are shelves. The most important point is the overall dimensions and the relative position of the shelves. This is the key to good ergonomics of the wardrobe and ease of use.

So, for example, a cabinet 200 cm long and 260 cm high was chosen. A cabinet of this size (or similar) is often installed in hallways and bedrooms. This closet is very spacious. It is well suited for storing clothes and shoes, as well as bedding and other linen. Most the best option filling in the following: two rows of shelves are installed on the sides, mezzanine shelves are made in the upper part of the cabinet, Bottom part closet is reserved for shoes.

Fig.6.

The central part of the cabinet is a niche with a crossbar. This compartment is designed for outerwear, dresses, blouses, suits, etc. Clothes are hung in the closet on the crossbar. A pipe with a diameter of 25 mm can be used as a crossbar. This refers to a special furniture chrome bar. The bar is located in the middle of the niche, 10-15 cm are indented from the upper side. It is attached to the cabinet walls with self-tapping screws. If the length of the rod is more than 1 meter, then a special suspension is installed in the middle of it to ensure the strength of the structure.

Fig.7.

Please note that the pipe is located at a distance of approximately 180 cm from the floor. Exactly this optimal distance to make it easy to hang and take off clothes. Just as important is the fact that the height of the niche is 150 cm. You can hang a fur coat or coat in such a niche, while they will not touch the bottom shelf.

Niche for shoes is located under the central part. The height of the niche is 40 cm. This size is enough to put boxes with shoes in two tiers. The niche for shoes is separated from the central section by a partition, which will provide protection from dust for outerwear. Also, this partition is important for giving additional rigidity to the cabinet.

There are shelves on the sides of the closet. You can store anything on them. Shelf size: length 40 cm, height 35-40 cm. If the length can be arbitrary, then the height should be designed in the range of 30-40 cm. Shelves with such dimensions will be the most functional.

In the upper part of the cabinet there are mezzanine shelves. They have low accessibility due to the fact that they are located very high. They can be used to store rarely used items, or to store seasonal items.

The considered traditional version of the wardrobe design is universal and easy to use. However, if you use modern fittings for wardrobes, then you can pick up more successful options. This statement can be illustrated by the example of identifying the shortcomings of the described design and considering ways to eliminate them.

One of the disadvantages is the low availability of mezzanine shelves. This disadvantage can be eliminated by moving the compartment with outerwear to the place of the mezzanine, using a special mechanism.

Fig.8.

Thus, it turns out that the entire lower space is used for shelves that are at an accessible height, and the upper part of the cabinet is used for outerwear. This provides a special mechanism that can raise and lower clothing to a usable height.

Fig.9.

Another example of a disadvantage can serve as a case when making a wardrobe 60 cm wide does not allow room space. In this case, for outerwear, you can use a special mechanism for a canopy along the cabinet. There are several types of such mechanisms.

Fig.10.

Also, when filling the closet, special retractable laundry baskets. They can be used instead of shelves and removed in combination. Although we have considered several universal filling solutions, there are many more various options. Creating the perfect shelving system for you is only limited by your imagination.

Fig.12.

Fig.13.

Sliding wardrobe drawings and filling options

Fig.14.

Fig.15.

Fig.16.

Fig.17.

Fig.18.

Fig.19.

Designing a built-in wardrobe

The built-in closet is no less popular than the traditional one, due to the fact that, due to its design, it looks a little like a closet, but more like a way to create, albeit not a large, but independent dressing room. A built-in wardrobe is usually arranged in wall niches, or these niches are specially arranged. Thus, only sliding compartment doors remain visible part of the wardrobe.

Fig.20.

One of undeniable advantages built-in wardrobe is a lower cost of its manufacture. This is due to the fact that the built-in wardrobe lacks part of the design of a conventional cabinet, for a built-in one they are simply not needed. These elements include the floor, plinth, ceiling and side walls. If you use specialized systems for filling wardrobes, then you can generally do without structural furniture elements.

Fig.22.

Building a built-in wardrobe consists of two parts: organization of a niche for a cabinet and internal shelves. Because wardrobe systems, cost more than a chipboard construction, then they give preference to the latter. In fact, the shelf system is an independent cabinet, with the exception of some separate sections. The great advantage of the built-in wardrobe is the ease of assembly of the shelves, due to the fact that there is no need to use hidden fasteners. This will be discussed in detail below.

As has been repeatedly mentioned, the closet is arranged in a niche, i.e. the walls of the room are used as side and rear walls, the floor and ceiling of the room are used as the floor and ceiling of the cabinet, respectively.

Fig.23.

Problems arise when there is no niche. In this case, the niche is made of drywall or the missing wall is completed from it. However, if the repair has already been done, this option is not suitable. Therefore, quite often one of the walls is made of chipboard. The result is a kind of intermediate option, because part of the design is a traditional wardrobe, and part is built-in.

Fig.24.

Designing a built-in wardrobe, as well as the usual one, start with determining its overall dimensions. In fact, the overall dimensions of the cabinet determine the overall dimensions of the niche. The dimensions of the niche will be the installation dimensions of the sliding doors, so they can be ordered immediately. The remaining elements of the built-in wardrobe are not connected to the doors, which allows you to modify the wardrobe during operation by adding or removing unnecessary elements, which is another advantage of the built-in system.

Built-in wardrobe assembly(shelf systems) practically does not differ from the assembly of any furniture from laminated chipboard, the assembly is described in detail below. The main difference is the installation of sliding doors. The rail and the rail are not fixed to the cabinet elements, but directly to the ceiling and floor. It is important to ensure that both elements are in the same vertical plane. Otherwise, the doors may jam. It is also important that the floor is even, otherwise spontaneous opening / closing of doors is possible.

Fig.25.

Drawings and diagrams of the built-in wardrobe

Fig.26.

Fig.27.

Fig.28.

Fig.29.

Assembling the wardrobe

The order of assembly of the wardrobe depends on the design of the wardrobe. Since each cabinet has an almost unique layout, there is simply no universal instructions for assembling a cabinet. However, for most cabinet designs, there are several specific rules and techniques, following which you can assemble a wardrobe of any design.

It is advisable to start assembling the wardrobe from the outer walls and vertical partitions that are attached to the floor and ceiling of the cabinet, after which they assemble the internal shelves. It should be noted that if the wardrobe has a height equal to or slightly lower than the height of the room, then it is rather difficult to assemble the wardrobe alone.

When assembling the cabinet, several types of furniture fasteners are used: eccentric screed, confirmation, shelf holders and furniture corner. An eccentric tie is a hidden fastener that is used to connect the floor and ceiling of the cabinet with the side walls. Confirmate is used where it is necessary to connect parts, and it makes no sense to hide the fasteners, for example, for attaching shelves inside a cabinet or for assembling a shelf system for a built-in wardrobe. Shelf holders are used for freely fixed shelves. The furniture corner can be used for fastening shelves, or for fastening secondary elements. Such as the plinth bar.

When assembling cabinet furniture, the following approach is used to the assembly, first they assemble the individual elements, after which they attach them to the already assembled ones. All assembly is carried out on the floor. If the cabinet is approximately equal to the height of the room, this assembly option is not suitable. Assembled cabinet in the horizontal plane it will not be possible to install in place, because. the ceiling will interfere. Therefore, the cabinet frame must be assembled immediately on site, and the shelves can be installed in the next step.

To understand the assembly order and the purpose of fasteners, I propose to consider the assembly order of a previously designed cabinet.

Fig.30.

As already mentioned, the assembly of the cabinet begins with the frame, i.e. first, the side walls, floor, ceiling and plinth parts are assembled. To provide hidden fasteners during assembly, an eccentric screed is used. An eccentric coupler requires mounting holes, so an additive is made first.

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Personal control of all important stages of production allows you to create furniture with unique characteristics without extra costs. This article talks about how to make a wardrobe with your own hands. Blueprints, detailed instructions, photo and video materials will help you realize your own plans quickly and efficiently.

Even a complex project can be successfully implemented on your own after proper preparation

To figure out how to make a closet yourself, you need to clarify the purpose of the furniture. It will be useful to carefully study the following facts:

A significant internal volume implies the possibility of placing clothes and shoes, household appliances, New Year's toys, bed linen and other things. For each position, it is necessary to provide an optimal storage mode that is convenient for users.
With a large facade, aesthetic parameters are essential. A beautiful front surface will have a significant impact on the overall perception of the corresponding interior.
The choice of basic materials is the most important task. Not only the cost, but also the ease of assembly and the durability of the structure largely depend on the right decision.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe manufacturing steps

Measurements of the room and calculation of the dimensions of the closet

This tool simultaneously allows you to refine the accuracy of horizontal and vertical elements. building structures. The easiest way to take measurements for cabinet furniture. In this case, it is enough to take the minimum dimensions and subtract a few centimeters to make a small margin.

It is much more difficult to accurately fit the built-in wardrobe. With your own hands, you must make at least three measurements for each meter of length (height). If excessive defects are found, the surfaces must first be leveled.

Important! In any case, the free opening of the nearest window (door) blocks is checked. If necessary, install sash limiters. You should make sure that the cabinet will not close the only light switch in the room, will not be too close to the ceiling or wall light.

Preparation of design documentation for the creation of a do-it-yourself cabinet or built-in wardrobe

These programs are available on the official websites of trade enterprises. They can be used completely free of charge. Anyone can insert their own measurements. Guides are selected automatically, designed for loads determined by the size of the canvas and the material.

With its help, you can make a quality project even without previous design experience. Even a beginner will quickly master this tool using the following simple algorithm:

Drawings of details can be given to a specialized workshop, or used for the manufacture of individual parts of the wardrobe with my own hands. Electronic project convenient for viewing from different points. In it, you can quickly make various changes, taking into account additional requirements. The generated list is used to purchase necessary components knots and details.

Important! Quite large scraps from chipboard sheets and other materials remain in the workshop. It is better to take them with you to make it easier to correct errors during the installation process and perform repair operations in the future.

Choice for wardrobe rollers, materials, equipment and other components

The drawing shows the main components of a typical design:

The lower and upper guides for the wardrobe are attached to the floor and ceiling of the room (the bottom and the cover of the furniture, respectively).
In this example, the main load is on the lower rollers. But there are also models with a hanging canvas.
The side profile "C" additionally functions as a handle.
The sealing elements are made of silicone, which ensures a secure fixing of the glass.
The middle transverse elements strengthen the power frame, separate the individual elements of the canvas from different materials.

Do-it-yourself compartment door adjustment and other assembly features

A photo	Adjusting wardrobe doors: description of technological operations with comments
	During the first installation and during operation, the following typical problems arise: loose fitting of the valves, lack of fixation in the closed position.
	To prevent the canvas from moving back after hitting the side of the structure, a special locking element is installed inside the guide. It can be used to determine which door needs to be adjusted from a certain side.
	First, the shlegel (6÷8 cm) is separated to free access to the adjusting screw. The top hole is used during the assembly process for tightening fasteners.
	A hex wrench is used to adjust the position of the roller. In this example, the master uses #4.
	Clockwise rotation raises the door. In the opposite direction - lowers.
	These procedures are performed so that when closed, the canvas fits without gaps in the lower and upper parts. After obtaining the desired result, proceed to the next stage.
	The photo shows a locking element made of reliable sheet steel with an arrow. When the roller moves to the middle part, the spring rises up, preventing it from moving backward. If this part is shifted to the central axis of the wardrobe, a gap is formed.
	Moving an element is not easy. This is prevented by the ends of the springs, which rest against the bottom of the guide rails. They select a suitable piece of plastic, a board.
	With such a device, press the stopper. Then move the node in the desired direction.
	A torn off brush can be tucked into the bottom hole, or glue can be used for a hard mount.

Direct mounting direct or corner cabinet do-it-yourself is no different from assembling standard furniture. In the same way, the bottom, walls, and lid are first installed. Then to power frame attach internal and external shelves.

For your information! It is convenient to order a sliding system for a sliding wardrobe after the installation of the case. In this case, it will be possible to make an accurate measurement.