Design

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands and the rules for its use. Useful information about installing air conditioners with your own hands Split installation technology

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and classes. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and moisture for the most in a simple way. Agree, in the summer period there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.

After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home masters and for customers of installers' services to check proper execution.

We describe in detail the installation process, lists the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. A valuable addition to the text, which facilitates the perception of information, are photo and video applications.

When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.

The most common location options indoor unit split systems - above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on a site near a window or on balcony slabs

There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:

the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
to a barrier that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.

For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the plates enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based technical requirements to the wall of the ventilation facade used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the weight of the installation unit

For a multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is located on the top floor, it will be necessary to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of equipment location is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on model range and characteristics.

Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be done arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between Daikin split system blocks is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route should be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to start installing a split system on your own comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. Incredibly high amounts for the performance of the work, which takes 3 hours, are argued by the presence of expensive tools and its wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the services of the master.

If the prices from split system installers are too high, it is worth installing with my own hands having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that preparatory work you can do it on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connecting to the electrical network, and carrying out the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware installation tools

It is possible to carry out independent installation of the cooling unit, because. most of the tools are in the suitcase home master. An exception may be Vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of masters do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If, when installing the air conditioner yourself, it was not possible to find a vacuum pump, an alternative would be a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower

During the installation process, an important aspect is the observance of the horizontal position of the block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check by the building level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

The following equipment will need to be prepared in advance:

Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which a route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
Device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
Roller copper pipes.

Some believe that the use of a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.

Only after the beveler has been manipulated, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.

The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is carried out by the method of deformation of the tube according to the selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and round section are preserved.

According to the technical installation rules, a vacuum pump is required - the air conditioning system is sealed with this equipment. After filling the line with refrigerant, the process of evacuation is carried out.

Purchase of necessary materials

You will need a lot of components, but they are all easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.

Standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of 2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

You will also need to prepare thick-walled seamless pipes made of soft copper, designed for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected smaller and larger diameters. For more specific specifications, please refer to the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be plugged to protect against dust settling inside the product.

Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness

Foam rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in segments of 2 m. To implement measures for thermal insulation, a length equal to the length of the route will be required. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.

As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with a surcharge of 80 cm.

You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the margin of safety for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing the bracket for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, do not make additional holes in it, because. this significantly reduces the margin of safety of the part

As fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box with standard dimensions of 60 * 80 cm.

Split system installation procedure

Installing an air conditioning system on your own is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions specifically for the purchased equipment model.

Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units

The indoor unit is to be installed first. Having decided on the location of its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling backlashes, plastic plugs for dowels are inserted, a card is hung and fixed with dowels.

The most thorough fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because. on this site are the latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using the building level, the exposure to the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is coming. First, the line of its location is calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. So, the formed condensate will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the units, it is required to check the hole designed to accommodate the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it is the turn of the installation of the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.

As in the first case, the strict horizontal position of the block must be maintained, therefore, a level is also used at the markup stage.

When positioning the outdoor unit, the limitation regarding its slope must be taken into account - the maximum allowable slope angle is 45°

At the time of installation of fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10 * 100 mm), regardless of their number. After, exhibited outdoor unit and is also fixed with fasteners.

Stage # 2 - laying a communication line

With the help of an electric wire and two copper tubes, the connection between the outdoor and indoor units is carried out. Additionally, through the wall will be laid drainage system responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be properly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, you should prepare the copper pipes by cutting the desired length with a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, metal chips get inside the tube, which will circulate through the system and eventually lead to the failure of the compressor.

To lead copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust

Thermal insulation of tubes is carried out by putting polyurethane foam hoses on them. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a sealant - it has a short service life. After completing the measures for thermal insulation, all the connecting sections of the material are tightly glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with tongs.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both units, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.

The drain tube is connected to a special outlet on the indoor unit and is led out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, its laying is carried out at an angle to the exit to the outside. Requires fixing with clamps every meter of length to eliminate sagging in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate.

Stage # 3 - connecting the system blocks

Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount in freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: bring it into the sewer or into the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it is not widely used.

When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, sagging is also not allowed - condensate will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.

For the outer part of the device, a similar procedure is performed, but many people ignore it. If a polymer pipe is used instead of a hose, an appropriate adapter is selected. With it, connect the output of the block and the tube.

To connect copper pipes, you need to initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.

The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and a sharp crease. First of all, they are connected to the indoor unit. To do this, loosen the nuts on the respective ports.

When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped at the time of production to eliminate the oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal chips from entering the system.

The edges of the pipes in a section of 5 cm are aligned. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the input and output of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness, in the process of moving freon.

The flared end of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and fixed with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices here - sealants, gaskets, etc. The applied copper tubes provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly compress the fitting, and the contact will be tight

Similar actions are done with all four ports. After connecting, the last stage of the installation of the air conditioning system follows - the elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.

Stage #4 - evacuation of the system

During the installation work air enters the air conditioner pipes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles adversely affect all details. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when it comes into contact with water. As a result, the wear of components will accelerate.

Two methods can be used to remove air: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid that descends from the unit located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with little surplus.

The “puff” method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, the plugs are unscrewed on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of a larger diameter. Under its cover is a hexagon socket. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90 ° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. With a second finger pressure on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal of air, the spool outlet is screwed with a plug, and the valves open completely and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, minor factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without stripping the rim, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful in all details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the issue of installing split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.

A split system makes life easier on summer days, but such pleasure costs a lot of money. This situation encourages people to install air conditioners on their own. To avoid material damage and other possible problems, you should know the basic principles of installation, understand each stage of installation and follow the instructions. So, how to properly install a split system?

How to choose an installation location

Determining the location is a fundamental stage in the installation of a split system, which is regulated by manufacturers.

As for the location, you should know the following requirements:

The indoor unit should be placed at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling;
The indoor unit should be placed at a distance of 30 cm from another wall;
The distance between the outdoor and indoor units should be at least 1.5m.

It should be noted that the maximum distance between the units of a split system is not limited. Installers try not to exceed 6 meters, because if additional freon charging is required, additional costs will only aggravate the situation. The ideal distance is 3 meters.

The outdoor unit is often placed on open balconies or near windows. In multi-storey buildings, they are guided by the following principle: up to the 5th floor, the outdoor unit of the split system is installed above the window and at a certain distance from it, if the air conditioner is installed on the 9th floor, for example, then the outdoor unit is mounted at or below the window.

In private houses, the choice of location depends on the strength of the walls and suitable conditions. Installation is carried out on bearing wall using brackets or hung on the basement of the house itself.

What you need for self-assembly

The main thing you need for self-installation of a split system is tools and materials. Specialists do not just set a high cost for installing an air conditioner, because the equipment is expensive. Do not forget about the need for its armotization.

Installation tools

Equipment for installing a split system:

Perforator (a tool for creating a hole in the wall through which communications are laid and split system blocks are connected);
Drill and drills of different diameters, which will be needed to install the base (fasteners) for the air conditioner;
Expander of copper pipes, with the help of which the pipe is deformed to the required diameter;
Pipe cutter, which is used to cut copper pipes;
Rimmer or a regular file, which are needed for stripping pipes and removing burrs.

materials

The list of materials for installing a split with your own hands is longer and includes the following objects:

Copper seamless pipes exclusively for air conditioners. There is a difference between these and water pipes. For split systems, soft pipes are used, which successfully allow you to create good sealing. According to the diameter, this material is divided into large and medium size. The required length should be 20 cm longer than the length of the communication;
Cable for connecting blocks of a split system. Often a 4-core wire with a cross-sectional thickness of 2-2.5 square millimeters is used. The length of the cable must match the length of the communication or be slightly longer;
Drainage tube - spiral plastic hose;
Insulation for pipes made of rubber;
Brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. The dimensions depend on the dimensions of the block and bearing capacity walls;
Fasteners (dowels, anchors, bolts, screws, etc.);
Plastic box in order to hide communications at the end of the installation of a split system.

Installation procedure and features of the work

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system consists of installing blocks and laying all necessary communications. It is important to follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer, because each model has its own characteristics that affect the method and location of installation.

Installation of the indoor and outdoor unit

The installation of the indoor unit begins with the selection of a location. Make sure that electrical communications and water pipes do not pass at the attachment points.

First of all, a plate is attached, on which the block itself is then put on. It is necessary to fulfill a prerequisite, the horizontal level of the split system plate must be ideal.

After working with the level, you should put marks for the holes. It is important to fix well lower part plates where the latches for the body of the indoor unit of the split system are located.

After successful installation of the plate, the indoor unit is put on from above and enters the grooves, which allows it to be firmly held on the wall.

The opening for communications should be at such a height that the drain pipe slopes towards the outdoor unit (slope - 1 cm per 1 m). The diameter of the hole must be at least 5 cm. It is better to make two holes - for wires with copper pipes and separately for a drainage tube.

To mark the mounting of the outdoor unit, remember that again you need to observe the level and the fact that the drain pipe must go along the slope. Accordingly, the level of the outdoor unit is lower than the level of the indoor unit of the split system.

Brackets are installed first. Each hole in them must be used for its intended purpose. The more anchors will hold the base, the greater the chance that the block will not fall. Installation of the block itself on the brackets is carried out using bolts.

Laying communications

The first step is to lay copper pipes. Having decided on the length, they are cut with a special tool, which was indicated above. The edges must be carefully filed.

Insulating pipes are put on top of the pipes, which serve to maintain the temperature. There should be no insulation joints. From above, everything is tightly glued with reinforced tape. Important! When pulling pipes through the hole, it is necessary to block access to the inside to avoid dirt and construction debris.

The cable is easy enough to run. stripped wires right size are pulled through the hole and connect the blocks of the split system.

To find where to connect the wires, you need to open the cap, which is located above the copper pipe mounts on the blocks. It is recommended to study the wire fasteners before installing the system so that there are no problems during the process.

Connecting blocks

To connect the blocks, it is necessary to observe the correct connection of the cable colors. This shouldn't be a big problem.

Drainage

Or . On the indoor unit there is a tube with a plastic tip, where the corrugated pipe is put on and crimped with a clamp. It is advisable to bring it at a distance of 1 meter from the wall

At the bottom of the outdoor unit, corrugated pipe is rarely used and everything is left as it is. The water just drips onto the ground.

Freon circulation system

Connecting copper pipes requires responsibility and good preparation. Before that, it is better to carefully read the instructions and study the connection points. Copper tubes should not be strongly bent and run evenly with the rest of the communication.

The indoor unit has two ports for connecting two handsets. First you need to twist the nuts. If something hisses during this, it’s not scary, it’s nitrogen that comes out, which was previously pumped into the block.

After cutting the pipe, the ends are carefully checked for burrs and other roughness. For 5-7 cm, the pipe should be perfectly flat. Rolling is carried out according to the size of the port fitting. It is very important that the tube fits snugly on the fitting - this will prevent excessive loss of freon and ensure normal sealing.

If everything fits well, the tube is connected to the port by screwing on the nut. There is no need to use gaskets or other devices. Such operations are done with all ends of two copper tubes.

Vacuum for what and how to do

Vacuuming is necessary in order to clean the copper pipes from air and moisture that gets inside during installation. If it is not removed, a large load will be created, and the compressor, accordingly, will overheat.

There are two ways to pump out a split system.

Puff method

If you look at the port into which the copper pipes are connected, you can see two plugs, in addition to the nut with the fitting. Both plugs are unscrewed.

Work is done with a port of larger diameter. Inside there is a special slot for a hex key. The size is selected according to the place, and it can also be found in the instructions.

Turn the valve 90 degrees for 1 second with the key, then release it. This means that a little freon was released into the system, which led to excessive pressure. On the same port there is a spool, which must be pressed with a finger to start the release of a mixture of freon and residual gases. The operation is carried out 1-2 seconds 2-3 times.

After all, a plug is put on the spool, and the hexagon port is completely unscrewed to let the freon into the system. It is important to make sure that all plugs are tightly screwed in, you can lubricate the threads with soap for greater sealing.

Vacuum pump

The vacuum pump is connected to the spool for 20-30 minutes. During this time, he must completely evacuate the system. Then the pump is turned off, but the tube remains in the spool for 15 minutes. This is necessary in order to observe the pressure with a pressure gauge. If the arrow freezes and stays in place, then everything is fine. The chaotic movement of the arrow indicates an air or moisture leak, so you should turn on the pump again.

Before disconnecting the pump, it is necessary to let freon into the system using a hex key. A characteristic sound in the system indicates a successful launch. After that, you must quickly disconnect the pump.

This article will discuss how to install the air conditioner with your own hands. Experts strongly recommend preparing the climate device for intensive use in advance. Installation of air conditioners is a responsible and rather complicated event from a technical point of view. With a certain desire, practical skills and theoretical basis installation work can be done by hand.

The efficiency and duration of the operation of a split system depend on how accurately the installation rules are followed. An unsuitable place, improperly selected equipment for installation, its non-compliance with technical operating conditions, violation of technology - all this can eventually lead to a breakdown of the unit. And even the most expensive devices fail without revealing their potential.

Properly organizing the whole process will not work if you do not have an idea about the principle of operation of this climate apparatus.

Show all

The principle of operation of the unit

All models of split systems offered for sale are built and operate according to the same principle. They consist of a compressor and an evaporator unit. To connect them, special pipes are used. The outdoor unit is mounted outside the wall.

Unit device

An evaporator is installed inside the room. More productive and expensive models equipped with several with a common compressor.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner at home:

1. High-pressure refrigerant (freon) is supplied through a nozzle, the diameter of which corresponds to the outlet pipes.
2. It goes to the inside of the evaporator, where it gradually expands, and after some time it completely boils. The generated steam actively absorbs heat.
3. In the process of absorption, condensate is certainly released in the form of water, which settles on the surface of the radiator.
4. Moisture is transferred to the tank, and then discharged outside the walls of the house.

If the installation of the air conditioner is done professionally and correctly, the compressor will constantly pump out freon vapors from the internal chamber, in parallel there is an increase internal pressure. As a result, the refrigerant heats up, which contributes to its transformation into a dense fog.

The refrigerant is redirected to the condensation chamber, where it is cooled by an integrated fan, transforming into a liquid. In this state, it is sent to the evaporator (through the nozzle) and everything closes in a circle.

note! If you install an air conditioner inside a room near a heating device, then the energy consumption will increase significantly, and the device itself will most likely fail after a few months of operation..

Even ordinary dust can lead to breakage of the climate unit. Wet cleaning is not only necessary, but also prescribed, and thorough, regular and thorough. Indoors, it is strictly forbidden to put any products or objects on the unit itself. It is also impossible to cover it with a tablecloth.

Scheme of work

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner necessarily involves sealing all connecting elements and joints, which will eliminate the likelihood of refrigerant evaporation. Experts recommend placing the outdoor unit in such a way that it is lower in level than the indoor unit. The standard installation of the air conditioner involves the location of the outdoor unit in a cool place, in the shade.

The device and principle of operation of the air conditioner

Tools and preparations

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner cannot be done without preliminary preparation of tools:

electrical tester;
bicycle and vacuum pumps;
pipe cutter;
perforator;
indicator;
example;
pipe flaring kit.

Required Mounting Tools

This is just a basic set of accessories necessary for the installation of air conditioners. Additionally, you will need a full coil of copper tube (note that its ends must be rolled initially, at the factory). Any visual defects (dents, scratches) are simply not acceptable.

note! Installation of air conditioning systems is impossible without making holes in the walls, damaging the external and interior decoration, therefore, work should be carried out in parallel with the repair.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the climate system

After purchasing the climate unit and preparing the necessary tools, you can proceed to the main pool of work. The installation scheme is quite simple:

choice of location for the installation of the unit.
installation of brackets on which the unit will be installed.
Initially, the installation of the external (outdoor) unit of the unit is carried out.
then the indoor unit and other elements of the system are mounted inside the object.

note! In the process of performing the relevant work, it is extremely important to strictly observe safety standards, especially when it comes to a height of 2-3 floors. Knowing how to install the air conditioner yourself should not go against the precautions.

The choice of a place for the installation of the unit is no less important than the purchase of the climatic device itself. Experts advise taking into account a number of requirements when choosing a place for the indoor unit:

remoteness from the side wall - from 30 cm;
distance from the ceiling - at least 15 cm;
to the nearest large object that disrupts the movement of air masses - from 150 cm.

Unit placement options

As for the location of the outdoor unit, perfect place a balcony is considered, but provided that it is open. In the case of a glazed loggia, you can stop at the option of mounting on the fence, with sufficient bearing capacity of this design. We recommend that residents of the first and second floors place this part of the split system above the window so as not to cause inconvenience and level the likelihood of theft.

note! In the case of a private house, no strict recommendations are provided.

Choosing a place for the unit

If there are several air conditioner units, then the minimum distance between them should be at least 1.5 m, optimally - 3 m. A number of manufacturers do not regulate this value and you can select it yourself. But it is better to refuse the “sandwich” option, in which neighboring blocks are located with the back side to each other.

The distance between 2 blocks indoors is from 6 m. More is allowed, but in this case, refueling with refrigerant cannot be avoided. It is better to invest in the specified value.

Where to install the air conditioner

Installation of brackets for air conditioning

Brackets for installing the unit

So, where is the best place to install an air conditioner? – The climate control unit is fixed in an unhindered access zone. Balcony air conditioner installation the best option. This type of equipment requires periodic and high-quality maintenance.

Experts strongly recommend placing the outdoor unit on the north or east side. Installation of a window air conditioner is often performed at the bottom of the balcony. This zone is considered the best, because it allows you to freely open the window, service the unit. The sequence of actions is simple:

1. The fixing points of the brackets are indicated and marked with a level.
2. Under anchor bolts holes are formed.
3. For communications, it is necessary to prepare a through hole, its diameter should be at least 8 cm. It is better to make mounting recesses and recesses in the space between adjacent bricks, this will not only simplify the work, but also make them visually neater.

Bracket dimensions

The brackets are installed in accordance with the preliminary marking, adjusting them according to the level and screwing in the anchor bolts. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there should be about 10 cm of free space between the base of the wall and the air conditioning unit. Gaps must be carefully sealed. After making sure that this block is securely fastened, the installation steps continue, but already inside the room.

ATTENTION! Don't skimp on brackets.

Brackets for air conditioners. What is the difference?

Outdoor unit fixing

Starting to fix the outdoor unit, you need to make sure that the wall is structurally reliable and durable. Large models can weigh more than 50 kg, and in some cases more. Household climate units weigh about 15 kg, and there are no problems with their fastening. Experts advise to provide a margin of safety for all fasteners and walls at least 2 times.

Advice! If your home has outer insulation, you should make sure that the brackets are fixed not to it, but to the wall itself.

In recent years, in the segment of private development, such material as aerated concrete has been especially popular. With all its positive qualities, it is not able to provide sufficient strength for the installation of an air conditioner. The same is the case with the ventilated facade.

note! During the installation process, it is extremely important to ensure a horizontal level for the product, while you can use the building level. The slightest deviations are fraught with improper circulation of the refrigerant.

Proper fixing of the outdoor unit

the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be blown by the wind from all sides (if possible);
the body is better placed under a canopy;
tenants upper floors apartment buildings can have them directly on the roof;
the maximum line length is 15 m, if this value is exceeded, then cold losses increase.

Professionals pay close attention to the competent arrangement of the drain for condensate drainage. In accordance with the rules and regulations, this tube must be connected to the sewer system. That's just our compatriots in the vast majority neglect it, completely in vain.

The outdoor unit should be at least 10 cm away from the wall surface. It is required to ensure high-quality blowing of the unit. If you do not withstand it, then the device may completely fail. Remember that any activities associated with the installation of the outdoor unit are associated with a high risk to health, since these are high-altitude work.

Fixing the indoor unit

Professionals categorically forbid placing the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above the battery. Self-installation of the air conditioner in these places is fraught with failure of the device's processor. Having decided on the place, it is imperative to check the wall for other communication solutions (heating pipes, plumbing, electrical wiring).

Fixing the indoor unit

Direct installation of a window air conditioner is possible only if there is a free area. First of all, a metal plate is mounted: at least 10 cm must be retreated from the ceiling, and about 7 cm from the base of the wall. Distances are marked with a pencil. Holes are made for fasteners, and the plate is securely screwed.

Fixed plate for indoor unit

The further installation scheme involves fixing the indoor unit on an already attached plate. A hole is made in parallel in the wall for laying a copper cable, condensate hoses, pipes, and electrical wiring. Standard includes all necessary products, solutions and elements.

Electrical connection

Electrical connection diagram

The indoor unit functions only if it has its own wiring, the cross section of which must be at least 1.5 square meters. mm. A mandatory requirement is the presence of a shutdown machine, especially if it is the installation of industrial air conditioners. The wiring is connected to the shield only when it is fully laid: a yellow wire with a small green stripe is connected to the neutral wire.

note! In order to determine the phase and zero, it is most effective to use an indicator.

The rules for installing an air conditioner require the connection of individual units using insulated stranded wires, previously passed through a hole in the wall. Each climate control unit comes with instructions that clearly indicate the wiring diagram and sequence.

Answering the question of how to properly install an air conditioner, professionals invariably state that the key to the success of this entire event depends on the quality and literacy of laying copper pipes. They are cut in such a way that there is a small margin (about 0.8-1 m) for bends.

Pipe laying

It is simply not possible to bend them, since dents, wrinkles will form, and the metal may even crack.

note! The installation of industrial air conditioners, as well as household ones, involves the use of special pipe benders. They allow you to maintain the structural integrity of the tubes. For window air conditioners, this moment is the key to effective functioning.

Only after this, the tubes can be covered with polyurethane foam hoses, which play the role of thermal insulation. As for the traditional foam rubber, it is completely unsuitable in this context, due to the short service life. Flanges for threading are worn solely on the fact of pipe insulation.

Installation and installation of air conditioners is carried out with mandatory flaring, while the process itself requires utmost care in order to eliminate the risk of grooves and microcracks. Be that as it may, but spare parts and necessary tools should always be at hand. On rolling, the nut should be placed easily, but when tightening, it is better to use a torque wrench, which eliminates the likelihood of small particles being squeezed out of the machined area.

Further, it is enough to fix the corresponding pipeline at each fitting. A small piece of pipe in a reinforced casing is attached to the drain pipe (for such cases, it is better to use heat-shrinkable tubes).

Advice! An important component of the successful installation of an air conditioner at home is the presence of a drainage pipe located at the maximum possible distance from the bearing walls.

The next step is to insert pipes into the holes in the wall, while they should be placed as evenly as possible. At the wall, the canvas is fixed with clamps. An air conditioner with installation outside the home must be mounted extremely securely. Small holes are filled with mounting foam. To check the tightness, you can use a soapy solution.

Vacuum system

To install air conditioners, it is necessary to evacuate the system. Even if the activities are carried out at home, this is indispensable, since moisture and fine dust are removed as part of the evacuation. During the installation of the air conditioner, connections and threads are sealed, otherwise it will not work to remove air from the unit. A vacuum pump is used to pump out air for 20-40 minutes.

vacuuming

After the installation of the air conditioner is completed, the refrigerant in the cylinder is supplied to the system. A small adapter is attached to it, and then a pressure gauge. The filling of the air conditioning tank is independently carried out taking into account and correcting for pressure. Upon completion of the process, the disconnector is activated and the system enters the test mode.

note! The uniform circulation of cold air indicates that everything is done correctly. The air conditioning unit can be used for its intended purpose.

Results

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself. This work is quite feasible. Naturally, this is not a simple and easy task. The key recommendation is to strictly follow the instructions and if any defects occur, they must be eliminated in a timely manner. In this case, the air conditioner will work efficiently for a long time. Be sure to watch the video on installing the air conditioner from A to Z.

Installing an air conditioner is a very difficult task which requires certain knowledge and sometimes special tools. In our article today, we will talk about how to install air conditioning at home yourself. Exist different types air conditioning systems, which include mobile and window models, as well as the so-called split systems. As part of our article, we will dwell in more detail on the sequence of actions when installing the last variety.

The process of installing a split system is quite complicated and is carried out in several steps. In this regard, all actions can be divided into three main stages, which include the following:

Works on the installation of the indoor unit;
Actions related to the installation of the outdoor unit;
Vacuuming.

Each of the stages will be considered by us in detail.

Step one: install the indoor unit

If you decide to install a mobile air conditioner at home, then you don’t have to worry about the installation process, you just need to put it in the right place. But with a split system you will have to work hard, since it consists of two blocks, each of which needs a separate installation. If we talk about the indoor unit, then a number of requirements are imposed on its installation. So, for example, it should be at some distance from the ceiling, which should not be less than ten centimeters.

The importance of the above requirement should be understood, since if it is ignored, the following consequences may occur:

his body will quickly become clogged with dust, and it will have to be cleaned almost every day;

dust will also settle on the surface of the ceiling. As a result, not the most beautiful dust spot will be obtained;

the system will not have enough air, and this will subsequently affect its efficiency.

Such an indentation from the wall is required so that it becomes possible to ensure a distance between the curtains and the device of at least ten centimeters. In conditions of a shorter distance, curtains or curtains will constantly flutter, which is also undesirable. Next, install mounting plate while maintaining the level. Previously, you should also equip the markup, which is performed using dowels and a puncher.

Further self-installation air conditioning involves making a through hole in the wall, which is required in order to lay a line and a drainage system there. For this purpose, it is required to take a drill, the diameter of which is forty-five millimeters, after which you can start making a hole. This tunnel should be designed in such a way that the slight slope required for condensate to flow through it is provided. Further actions will be associated with the collection and connection of the route. First you need to measure the required length of the pipe and cut them. This will require the use of a pipe cutter. But it is better not to use a hacksaw for metal, since chips that have got inside will lead to compressor failure.

Next comes the connection of pipes - rolling is used. The quality of the connection that holds the refrigerant also depends on how well this operation is performed. Even before rolling, it is required to put the nut on the tube. Explained this requirement the impossibility of such an action in the future. It is also important to tighten the nuts to the indoor unit as tightly as possible, this only improves the quality of the connection.

Connected pipes, electrical wiring, as well as the drainage system must be insulated and wrapped with tape. Next, the free trunk ends must be inserted into a previously made hole in the wall. As for the indoor unit itself, it is installed on a bar. At this stage, the installation stages of the air conditioner associated with its indoor unit can be considered completed. Now we move on to the next steps to install the outdoor unit.

Step two: install the outdoor unit

Solving the issue related to the competent installation of the air conditioning system, or rather its external unit, is associated with some risk. This is relevant in the case of high-altitude work. In such cases, insurance is mandatory.

As part of this stage, the first step is to install the brackets. The outdoor unit is in most cases mounted under the window. This decision about its location is explained by the fact that in this way it becomes possible to provide convenient maintenance and repair.

As for the location of the brackets, it is calculated in such a way that the external unit of the air conditioning system would be located below the level of the window sill.

After finishing the marking work, you can proceed to the stage of attaching the brackets to the wall. Due to the fact that the outdoor unit is characterized by a rather significant weight, the brackets must be fixed with maximum reliability. For this, long self-tapping screws are used, the diameter of which should not be less than twelve millimeters. After the installation of the brackets is completed, the unit itself should be lowered onto them directly. It is advisable to mount the block in tandem with an assistant, because due to the considerable mass there is a threat to drop the block.

Further, after installing the unit on the brackets, you will need to securely fasten it. But this must be done by securing all four screws. When these steps are completed, it will be possible to connect trunk elements to it. In this case, it is necessary to carry out all actions very carefully, since it is important not to confuse which of the tubes should be connected to where. In addition, even in the process of connecting them to the indoor unit, it is recommended to make appropriate marks. In all other respects, other actions are carried out similarly to the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.

Stage Three: Vacuuming

When deciding to install an air conditioner at home with your own hands, remember that vacuuming is mandatory. Such a process is a set of actions aimed at creating a vacuum in the tubes of the main line. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure the operation of the air conditioner. Vacuuming is performed to remove dust and moisture from the pipes. This is done with a special pump connected to the system using a manometric manifold and flexible hoses.

Next, the pump is turned on and a port is opened on the outdoor unit. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port and turn off the pump. These steps will take no more than fifteen minutes to complete. It may take longer to carry out this operation, but this is not necessary. Do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position. So, for example, when it is raised, we can talk about the lack of tightness of the system. Therefore, check all connections in general and rolling in particular.

You can start the refrigerant only after making sure that everything is tight, and it does not matter where you decide to install the air conditioner. At the same time, it is better to leave the pressure gauges in their places. The first step is to open the tube responsible for the supply, then the suction tube, after which you can start fixing the freon pressure. It is also important not to confuse the above sequence of actions.

Next, the first launch of the system is performed, which will not happen immediately, you will have to wait for some time. Then you need to let it work for about fifteen minutes. This time is allotted for the complete distribution of freon through the tubes. Then control measurements of pressure are carried out, and the pump equipped with a pressure gauge is turned off. On this work on the installation of a split system can be considered completed.

Installation of a window air conditioner

In cases where you wish to install window air conditioner at home, the execution of actions is somewhat different, since its design is significantly different from the split system. To do this, you will need to remove its front panel and remove the block located on the skid. After that, the housing should be installed with a slight slope towards the street. Then it is assembled in the reverse order and connected to the outlet, adjusting the required power.

The design is assembled, mounted in the intended place. The final work is the installation of an electrical cable.

The first way to connect the air conditioner to a common network

The electrical part of the work begins with the laying of two cables:

Electric wire for connecting air conditioner units;
Connections of the indoor unit of the air conditioner with the power supply electric current. The cable is brought out to the electrical panel and connected separately to the circuit breaker. You can connect the device to a power outlet.

The option of connecting the indoor unit of the device to the outlet is possible:

with a small power of the device;
the device must be of the type of window or mobile device;
high capacity of the existing network;
temporary installation of an air conditioner;
the connection line of the device must not be used for the operation of other devices.

The line connecting the cooling device to the socket must be equipped with a circuit breaker.

An important step is the correct selection of an outlet for connecting an air conditioner. The installation of reinforced sockets ensures the safety of connecting the device through the socket to the power source.

As a rule, the manufacturer in the instructions attached to the air conditioner provides a diagram for connecting the air conditioner to the mains. The electrical connection information of a specific device is provided on the inner surface of the covers of the device blocks.

Under the panel of the indoor unit there is a box with terminals. The wires are connected to the terminals, the free ends of the wires are wrapped with electrical tape.

There are numbered contacts under the cover of the outdoor unit. The wires from the indoor unit are connected to the contacts of the outdoor unit in accordance with their numbering. Free numbers wrap with insulating tape.

The units are connected with an electric three-core cable with a wire cross section recommended by the instructions for this air conditioner. It is necessary to check the quality of the insulation of the wires. Poor insulation can short out the connecting wires.

In the absence of grounding, it is necessary to use a special device that provides safe work with electric current.

Reasons for not connecting the air conditioner to an existing home network:

electrical wiring of the home network aluminum;
small cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200belectric wire;
emergency condition of the electric wire;
lack of protection of the mains and grounding.

The second way to individually connect the air conditioner

The most reliable option for connecting an air conditioner is an individual line. In this case, stable operation of the device is ensured. A special electrical cable for the air conditioner, a voltage relay capable of turning off the voltage during surges and overloads in the network serve to protect devices from breakdowns and fire. An individual power line allows the placement of an air conditioner anywhere in the house.

The electrically conductive line for the air conditioner must have:

circuit breaker;
wiring material made of copper;
wires with a cross-sectional area recommended in the instructions for the device;
grounding equipment.

Installation of a device for emergency shutdown of the device of the differential machine on the line of individual connection of the air conditioner is not required.

The electrical wire for the air conditioner is laid in strobes arranged in the wall. The cable is preliminarily placed in a corrugated sleeve or decorative boxes to protect it from external damage. When mounting an electrical wire together with a drainage or a freon line, it is necessary to use their laying in mounting fixtures: boxes and tubes.

The method of laying the electrical cable, drainage lines and freon will facilitate the emergency replacement of an object that has become unusable and is placed in gates.

Having received the necessary information about the methods of installing the electrical wire and safety measures, you can see the detailed connection of the air conditioner to the mains in the video below.

The third way to connect the device to the network

To the considered two options for connecting an air conditioner to a power source, a third method can be proposed. This method involves separate connection of the air conditioner units to the electrical network. Both units of the device are provided with individual wiring with communication for data exchange by a two-wire cable. Laying an additional three-phase cable, arranging an individual switch in the distribution cabinet. Everything electrical work, made without deviations from the scheme of a particular device, suggest its long operation without breakdowns.

Please rate this article: