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How to properly install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. Connecting the air conditioner to the mains

A split system or household air conditioner can be connected to the mains in two ways:

  • to a conventional electrical outlet;
  • using a separate cable connected to the electrical panel.

It is possible to connect the air conditioner correctly only if the established sequence of work is observed. She suggests:

  • study of the installation scheme;
  • preparation of tools, equipment and Supplies;
  • connection of indoor and outdoor units using cable and terminals;
  • connecting the device to the mains;
  • checking the functioning of the system.

Scheme and connection rules

Before connecting the air conditioner to the mains, you must familiarize yourself with the diagram of such a connection and the sequence of installation work.

Typically, such circuits are placed by the manufacturer on the internal and external modules. The connection procedure is described step by step in the instructions, which are necessarily present in the device package.

Tools and equipment

To perform the work you will need a set of tools. Depending on the connection method, it will include a drill, a set of screwdrivers, pliers and other tools. Of the consumables, dowels, screws, a plastic cable box and the same clamps and other materials may be required. The exact listing depends on:

  • connection option;
  • device models;
  • manufacturer's requirements.

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of equipment, on which the stable operation of the device depends. To power the air conditioner from the mains, you will need:

  • the wire;
  • socket;
  • circuit breaker.

Wire selection

The wire for the air conditioner is selected according to the cross section, length, and number of cores. These parameters are selected based on:

  • current strength;
  • the remoteness of the shield or outlet;
  • the number of phases.

For household appliances it can be a cross section from 1.5 to 2.5 mm.

A household air conditioner, as a rule, has a single-phase connection, for which a three-wire wire is chosen. More powerful industrial devices are three-phase, which requires five-core.

Reliable operation of a device connected through a socket can only be ensured when using a copper core. When using an aluminum core, the device is powered through a separate line.

Outlet Requirements

If the power will come from the outlet, you must first check its ability to withstand the workload.

Modern euro sockets are usually designed to work with high power devices. But in any case, it must be checked for compliance with certain requirements. This is:

  • availability of grounding or differential relay;
  • compliance with the values ​​specified in the instructions;
  • compliance with the ratio of high power grid and low-power cooler;
  • connected through an automat with a distance between contacts of at least 3 mm when open.

The socket must be located at a certain distance from the floor and grounded metal household equipment:

  • 50 - 80 cm from the floor;
  • at least 50 cm from pipes, batteries and other grounded metal objects.

Machine

The circuit breaker is selected based on the rated power of the cooling device with a small margin, taking into account the level of starting current, which is higher than the rated one. An automaton with the appropriate value can be selected according to the formula, where the power of the device is divided by the mains voltage and increased by 30%. The optimal choice for a household cooler would be an automatic type C, which provides the maximum safe load and works on time if necessary.

Connection of blocks and inclusion in the network

Before connecting to the outlet, the connection of the external and internal units of the cooler is made. In order to properly power the device, you must adhere to the following sequence when working with the indoor unit:

  1. remove the outer panel;
  2. remove the protective cover from the terminals;
  3. dismantle the cable clamp;
  4. lay the cable through a special hole in the back of the unit;
  5. strip the ends of the cable and tighten them in the terminals;
  6. fix the wire with a clamp;
  7. return the decorative cover to its place.

An external module is connected in the same way, from which the protective cover is dismantled. Before connecting to the network, be sure to check the correct connection according to the scheme.

Separate line connection

This power supply option is considered the safest for uninterrupted, long-term and safe operation. It is recommended:

  • for coolers with high power;
  • during installation at the initial stages of repair of the premises.

The line is laid in a plastic corrugated pipe in a gate and fastened with plastic clamps. Laying without a pipe in a strobe 20 mm deep is possible. At the final stages of repair or in a repaired room, the line is laid in a plastic box. It is attached to the wall with glue or screws. In the box, the cable is fixed with plastic clamps after 500 - 600 m.

Precautionary measures

When laying a separate line, it is necessary to follow some rules that will protect the air conditioner from possible malfunctions:

  • all wiring elements must be accessible for service;
  • the wire is laid strictly horizontally and / or vertically;
  • it is impossible to lay several wires under the plaster at a distance of less than 3 mm;
  • it is not recommended to use the twist connection without special terminals or bolts;
  • do not connect wires with copper and aluminum conductors.

When laying the cable horizontally, the distances from the ceiling, beams, cornice, plinth must be observed.

When laying vertically, the distance from openings and corners must be at least 100 mm.

Particular attention should be paid to parallel laying with the gas pipeline or gas meter route, where the recommended distance cannot be less than a meter. In the vicinity of a hot pipeline, the cable must be protected with insulation from exposure to elevated temperatures.

The air conditioner has become widely accepted in our lives today as high-tech equipment that can provide an appropriate microclimate in any room, and therefore, when installing it in your home, you should know what is the optimal electrical circuit for connecting the air conditioner to your household power supply.

Connecting the power supply to the air conditioner - common questions.

The work on connecting power to the air conditioner is as follows:

A cable is being installed connecting the external and indoor unit and devices. The second cable must connect the indoor unit of the air conditioner with the electrical panel or, in extreme cases, electrical outlet. Based on the power consumed by the air conditioner, it is either included in the existing electrical network, or a separate power line is connected to its indoor unit, connected to the electrical panel through a separate machine.

The installation of electrical wiring is carried out in the strobes made in the wall, using corrugated sleeves or through the use of special decorative boxes.

Connecting the indoor unit of the air conditioner through a socket.

This electrical circuit for connecting the air conditioner is used in cases where there are no powerful energy consumers on the air conditioner connection line, the installation of the air conditioner is carried out according to a temporary scheme, the installed air conditioner is of low power or is of a window or mobile type, and also if the electrical network operating in the room is able to withstand the load from the operation of the air conditioner.

On the power line from the outlet to the air conditioner, it is mandatory to install an automatic machine with a power of at least 20 A. Such a network must also be equipped with an RCD (residual current device).

Connecting the indoor unit of the air conditioning unit with a separate power line.

This method of connection is preferable, because it protects the power grid and equipment from possible overloads and voltage fluctuations in it. The mandatory requirements for a separate power line to be installed are as follows:

The electrical panel must be equipped with grounding.

In the control room, on the power line to the air conditioner, an automatic machine is installed to protect it from overloads.

Mounted electrical wiring must be copper, with a cross section of at least 3 x 2.5 mm.

Installation of interblock electrical wiring of the air conditioner.

This wiring is also made with a three-core electrical cable with a cross section of 3 x 2.5 mm. When connecting the air conditioner, always follow its “Instruction ...”, which contains a detailed electrical diagram for connecting the air conditioner.

An example of connecting a domestic air conditioner to the mains.

For example, let's analyze the sequence of connecting a household air conditioner to a home electrical network.

Installation work in the electrical panel.

First, a separate machine is installed in the electrical panel for this power line. To the output, phase terminal of the machine, we connect the phase - black or brown wire of a three-core cable. Next, to the zero bus of the electrical panel, we connect the next one - the blue wire of the cable. The yellow or yellow-green wire of the power cable is connected to the ground wire of the switchboard, if any.

When there is no grounding, then to prevent possible electric shock to a person, use a special electrical device called an RCD (differential relay).

Connecting the indoor unit of the air conditioner.

The electrical wiring used during installation, as a rule, is always tricolor - having the color of wires in black (sometimes gray), blue and green, and sometimes yellow-green. In the indoor unit of the air conditioner, a black braided wire coming from the machine is connected to the L terminal. Wires of blue color from the automatic switchboard - in the block it is connected to the N terminal. The wiring is yellow-green in color - it is connected to the ground terminal in the internal unit of the device.

Connecting the external unit of the air conditioner.

Here, the wiring connection is identical, according to the settings of the above "Instructions ...". With an air conditioner or split system power of up to 4.6 kW, the recommended cross-section of a copper power cable is also at least 3 x 2.5 mm. The output machine in the electrical panel is set to a load current of at least 20A.

Carry out the installation of electrical wiring using corrugated special pipes. Also, when laying electrical wiring together with a drainage line or a freon circulation line, do not ignore the possibility of laying it in corrugated tubes of the required diameter.

This method of installation and connection of electrical wiring will allow you in the future to carry out the replacement of any worn or damaged wire, without the need to dismantle all electrical wiring laid in strobes or boxes.

The question of whether it is possible to install an air conditioner with your own hands disturbs the minds, especially the owners of brand new split systems who have already managed to get acquainted with the installation prices climate technology. Indeed, numerous air conditioner installation companies rate their services quite highly, referring to the complexity of installation, the need to use expensive highly specialized equipment and the mandatory high qualification of specialists. You can't argue with the last statement. Only newly minted owners of air conditioners are still interested in the possibility of self-installation, firstly, as the prospect of real savings on payment for installation services (we are talking about a rather large amount), and secondly, as an opportunity to consolidate their own skills and learn something new. Is it possible to blame the desire of our man to get to the bottom of the issue in order to understand how to install the air conditioner on his own and do the installation himself, no worse than a real master? If the desire is accompanied by the ability to realistically assess the level of one's skills and capabilities, then there is no price for it! The information we have provided on how to properly install an air conditioner will help you realistically assess the amount of installation work and balance your skill level with the required one.

Before starting to study detailed instructions for installation, see the list necessary equipment.

Necessary tools and equipment

  1. Perforator with drills.
  2. Electric drill.
  3. Vacuum pump.
  4. Pipe cutter.
  5. Rolling.
  6. Reamer (beveler).
  7. Level.
  8. torque wrench.
  9. Manometric manifold.

Vacuum pump removes moisture and air from the system

A locksmith's tool for installing air conditioners will also come in handy (pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, etc.)

Choosing a place for installation

When choosing an installation location for both indoor and outdoor units, consider the following points: it is important to consider the possibility of free access to the device (for in-line work on cleaning and replacing filters).

Consider also the feasibility of the shortest communication between the indoor and outdoor units (it's not so much about the economic benefit of using fewer consumables, but about reducing the efficiency of the entire system when increasing the length of interconnections). Do not place the indoor unit above a cabinet or tall furniture (obstructing the flow of cool air will cause the unit to work less efficiently). For the same reason, keep a minimum distance from the ceiling and walls (15 cm). Coordination of the installation of the air conditioner with the neighbors is also very desirable, in order to avoid misunderstandings in the future. The installation of an external unit does not create any special problems for residents of neighboring apartments, but it is very likely that someone may not like the noise of a running fan or dripping condensate. And the last point, the most obvious - the flow of cold air should not create discomfort for people in the room, so consider the direction of the air flow during installation. After the block locations are determined, we proceed to installation work.

  • installation of the indoor unit;
  • fixing the outdoor unit;
  • drilling a channel in the wall;
  • laying and connection of connecting communications;
  • circuit evacuation;
  • connecting the air conditioner to the mains;
  • system start.

Installing the indoor unit correctly

The indoor unit of the split system is mounted on a special plate supplied with the device. To ensure reliable operation of the unit and prevent condensation from flowing out of it later, it is very important to fix the plate evenly. Therefore, to determine a strict horizontal when marking, you must use the level. In the marked places, dowels are driven into the holes pre-drilled with a perforator. Then, using self-tapping screws screwed into the dowels, we fasten the mounting plate and install the indoor unit on it.

At the installation site of the indoor unit is attached mounting plate

Installing the outdoor unit

The outdoor unit is placed on pre-installed brackets outside the building, usually under or to the side of a window for ease of maintenance. For effective airflow, the distance from the block to the wall must be at least 10cm. If it is not possible to fix the brackets from the window, then for the work you will need to rent an aerial platform or use the services of climbers.

Interblock communications - how to do it?

A hole in the wall for the passage of communications is drilled using a perforator with a drill with a diameter of 4-5 cm. If the inter-block route includes a drainage pipe for draining condensate, then the channel must be made with a slope (5-10 degrees towards the street). It is advisable to hide the section of the route from the indoor unit to the point of entry into the wall in the wall. When chasing, a lot of dust is generated, so if the room has already been renovated, then it is better to lay the track outside, subsequently closing it with a decorative box.

Interconnect communications can be hidden in a decorative plastic case

The inter-unit communication route includes copper tubes of the freon line, power supply and equipment control wires, as well as a drainage pipeline (condensate from the indoor unit, according to the rules, must be discharged into the sewer, but many simply take it outside). The required length of wiring and pipelines is determined by measuring the total length of the route (plus a small margin of 30-50 cm).

To cut copper pipes, it is necessary to use a pipe cutter, and not a grinder or a hacksaw, in order to avoid the formation of sawdust, which can subsequently lead to a breakdown of the air conditioner. Before installation, the pipelines are placed in a heat-insulating shell; to prevent debris from getting inside, the openings of the pipeline are closed with plastic plugs. All components of the track are stacked together, rewound with vinyl tape, after which the track is installed in place.

After laying the inter-unit communications, they begin to connect the wires and the freon line. The installation manual for the air conditioner must contain a wiring diagram, which must be followed in the work.

The length of the tubes is adjusted (cut off right size), then you need to remove the burrs (we chamfer with a reamer). After threading the nut, each end of the tubes is flared by rolling. Then the edges are connected to the fittings of the indoor and outdoor units, tightening the nuts with a torque wrench (the connections must be absolutely tight).

After checking the tightness, air is removed from the line using a vacuum pump, the gauge manifold makes it possible to control the pressure

Having finished connecting the route, they check the tightness of the line and “vacuum” it (remove moisture and air) using a vacuum pump. To do this, through the gauge manifold to the service port of the outdoor unit, connect Vacuum pump, which, pumping air out of the system, creates a vacuum in it. This process lasts about 20 minutes (depending on the volume of the circuit). After the pump is turned off, the pressure change is observed for half an hour, if the pressure gauge needle does not deviate, then the system is tight. Only after a thorough check of the tightness is it possible to open the taps of the outdoor unit and fill the circuit with freon. Attention, freon leakage can cause damage to the compressor, but the extremely harmful effect of freon on the human body is more important.

So, the system is assembled and filled with refrigerant, it remains to connect the air conditioner to the mains and check its operation. The connection diagram of the air conditioner is simple, for most household split systems, the power supply is connected to the indoor unit, for this you just need to connect an outlet to it.

Now you have general idea about how to install the air conditioner with your own hands. It was about the installation of a split system, as the most efficient type of household air conditioners. The video instruction below will help you figure out how to install the air conditioner.

Installation of a mobile air conditioner does not require the intervention of highly qualified specialists: it is only necessary to place the device within 2m from the window (to remove hot air), and then connect it to the network.

To install the air conditioner, as a rule, you need to call in specialists who, upon completion of the installation of the equipment, will issue you with a document indicating that the work has been carried out correctly. When installing a split system with your own hands, you lose the right to service under warranty. But, in order to save money, many home craftsmen are trying to install the air conditioner with their own hands. At the same time, one point should be taken into account: in order to qualitatively connect the external unit of the system with the internal one, and then put the unit into operation, you will need to purchase quite expensive equipment. In addition, installing a split system is a rather troublesome business if you do it yourself. The purchase of equipment is advisable in the following cases:

  • you plan to move one or more units to new locations;
  • if you have purchased several units;
  • you are planning a major renovation in the apartment, which involves the complete dismantling and then re-installation of the split system;
  • you want to help install a split system to your friends or relatives;
  • if you need this tool kit to repair your car air conditioner.

In other cases, installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands is impractical.

The standard package of a split system usually includes such components.

Important! To install the air conditioner with your own hands and put it into operation, you need to supplement the standard equipment of the device.

Materials and tools for installation

To install a split system yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials.


You can't do without a special tool:

  • pipe bender (how to use, shown in the video);
  • rimmer-sweep;
  • pipe cutter (how to use it, you can learn from the video);
  • rolling (see video);
  • manometric manifold;
  • Vacuum pump.

Selecting the installation location for the indoor unit

The location of the indoor module should be such that during its operation you do not experience discomfort from the flow of cool air. If you look at the following figure, it will become clear without words what exist ideal options installation of air conditioning in the apartment.

When placing the module above the head of the bed, the flow of cold air will not enter the relaxation area and will not be harmful to health. The workplace is recommended to be positioned so that the air flow is either on the side or behind. If the desk you are working at is under the air conditioner in your apartment or office, you can install a special screen under the hair dryer to direct the flow along the ceiling.

Indoor unit installation requirements

Exist following rules placement of the indoor unit of the air conditioner in the room:

  • the distance between the hair dryer and the ceiling must be at least 15 cm (some models are installed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ceiling);
  • the distance from the installed block to the wall on the right or left is at least 30 cm;
  • the obstacle in the way of the air flow must be no closer than 150 cm.

Sometimes the question arises: at what height should the indoor module be hung if the room has high ceilings? On average, you can hang the air conditioner on the wall at a height 280 cm from the floor, as it shown on the picture.

The following figure shows examples various options installations that clearly show how best to install the air conditioner.

Outdoor unit installation requirements

The external module of the unit is usually placed under the window, near the window or on the balcony. If the balcony railing is strong enough, then you can fix the module on it.

If the apartment is on the first floor, then the outdoor unit must be located at a height of at least 2 meters from the ground, adhering to the rule: the outdoor unit must be mounted slightly lower than the indoor unit, or at the same level with it.

When installing split system modules, you should remember the values ​​​​of the minimum and maximum distance between them. These values ​​may differ for different manufacturers of climate control equipment. For example, for Panasonic split systems, the minimum distance between modules can be 3 meters, and for Daikin - from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Some manufacturers do not specify a minimum distance at all. In this case, the blocks can be placed on a back-to-back basis.

The maximum route length between modules is usually 6 meters. More is allowed, but in such a situation it will be required freon refueling, which entails additional material investments. Therefore, if produced self-installation air conditioner, it is better not to exceed the indicated 6 meters.

Installation order

The procedure for installing an air conditioner, including an inverter air conditioner, involves the phased installation of all its modules and lines. Installation must be carried out according to step by step instructions below.

The rules for installing an air conditioner state that at the first stage it will be necessary to install an indoor unit (hair dryer) of the air conditioner. To do this, follow the steps below.

  1. To properly install the air conditioner yourself, take a steel mounting frame and attach it to the wall in the place where the hair dryer is supposed to be mounted (taking into account all the distances described above). It is important that the frame for mounting the air conditioner is placed strictly horizontal(use the building level).
  2. Mark the places for fastenings.
  3. Using a puncher, make holes in the wall and hammer plastic dowels into them.
  4. Attach the plate to the wall and fix it with self-tapping screws.
  5. The hair dryer is hung on a mount (plate) for the air conditioner, after which it is necessary to check the horizontal again. If you allow the air conditioner in the room to skew in the opposite direction from the drainage channel, then the liquid will accumulate in the pan and flow down the walls.

Preparation of communication channels

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation continues with the preparation of the channel for the highway. To bring out the tubes of the freon circuit, supply cables and drainage, it is necessary to make a hole of the appropriate diameter in the wall. For this, a perforator with a long drill is used. For free outflow of condensate to the street, it is necessary to make slight slope.

Outdoor unit installation

Installation of an external air conditioner unit is considered the most time-consuming process in the installation of split systems. Difficulties are associated with the fact that the weight of the module can reach 20 kg or more, due to the compressor placed in it. In addition, most often the external module is installed at a high height.

First, make a markup using a level. Then, using a perforator, make holes. Further, they are screwed into anchor bolts, and the brackets themselves are screwed to them with nuts. After the brackets are securely fastened, the outdoor unit is installed on them.

When installing the air conditioner, especially the outdoor unit, you will need the help of at least one person.. If the module is installed at a high altitude, then you will not be able to install the air conditioner yourself. It is better to use the services of climbers to hang this module.

The outdoor module is attached to the brackets with bolts. It is recommended to put thick rubber under the feet to reduce vibration.

Connection of blocks by communications

To continue the installation of a split system with your own hands, you need to connect both modules to each other.

  1. First of all, remove the protective plastic covers on the terminals of the outdoor unit. Using the instructions, connect the control and power cables that come from the indoor module to them.
  2. Carefully, in order to further connect the modules, make route installation your air conditioner, having previously put thermal insulation on the tubes (the ends are fixed with reinforced tape). To prevent debris from getting into the tubes, also seal their ends with tape. The track is fastened with clamps screwed to the wall. After that, measure the length of the line and cut the tubes, leaving a margin of 10 cm. Put union nuts on them and roll the ends. Using a rimmer, chamfer. The laying of the route (main) for the air conditioner can be carried out both outside the premises and inside, if for aesthetic reasons it is forbidden to place any communications on the facade of the building.
  3. Using union nuts, screw the pipes first to the fittings of the outdoor unit, then to the fittings of the indoor unit.
  4. Secure the drain tube using plastic clamps.

The connection diagram of the split system modules is shown below.

vacuuming

Without evacuation of the line, it is impossible to run refrigerant into the system. This procedure will require a vacuum pump and a gauge manifold. The pump is connected to the filling connection through the manifold as shown in the figure below (the valves on the manifold must be in the “closed” position), after which it turns on for 20-30 minutes. to remove air from the system.

After turning on the vacuum pump, you need to open the handle located under the low pressure gauge. After a short period of time, the pointer on the pressure gauge will begin to fall and reach zero, within 30 seconds or more. The pumping time depends on the length of the line and the diameter of the tubes. The position of the arrow at zero means that in the line a vacuum has formed.

Do not turn off the pump for this stage. Continue vacuuming for about 30 minutes more. After the specified time, you should first turn off the tap on the manifold, and only then turn off the pump. If the faucet is not closed, air will be sucked into the system.

Freon filling

Freon is launched into the system without disconnecting the hose connected to the service port valve. If this is done before starting the refrigerant, air will enter the line.

In order to independently start the refrigerant into the system, it is required, using a hex key, to slowly open the valve located on the liquid valve. After filling the line with refrigerant, you can unscrew the hose connected to the service port located on the gas valve.

Attention! When the hose is disconnected, freon can be released, which can freeze your hands and damage your eyes. Wearing goggles and gloves is recommended. The face must be kept away from the fitting.

It is necessary to unscrew the fitting from the valve as quickly as possible in order to reduce the loss of freon. Do not be afraid of loud hissing. The nut may become covered with frost when the refrigerant exits. Do not touch it without gloves, so as not to get burned.

All leak test connections can be soaped. After checking, tighten all the plugs on the valves of the valves, not applying much force, but well enough. If you twist them loosely, then it is possible that in winter period happen freon leak.

After you are convinced of the tightness of the line, turn on the split system for a while, then check all connections again. At this stage, the installation of the wall-mounted air conditioner is considered complete.

Do you need permission

People often ask if a permit is needed to install a split system, and can it be installed without the consent of the authorities? Based on practice, permission to install an air conditioner is not required. An exception may be cases when it is necessary to coordinate the installation of climate equipment with the authorities, in buildings that are architectural monuments or having historical, aesthetic value. In other cases, approval for the installation of climate equipment is not required.

Now more and more people want to buy and install a split system in their apartment. And it's not just air conditioning. Split system allows you to better freshen the air in the premises. What is its advantage? First of all, she does not block daylight, since it does not crash into window frame. The second advantage is that it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house as a whole. And the last - it consists of only two blocks: internal and external. The only reason why a large number of consumers do not dare to purchase a split system is ignorance of the rules for its installation. Consider all the steps in order and tell you how to install a split system yourself.

Compound

First of all, you need to know what this air conditioning system consists of. It is equipped with two separate units: the outer one - the condenser, and the inner one - the evaporator. They communicate with each other by means of electrical wires and two tubes made of copper through which the refrigerant circulates. In addition, the indoor unit is equipped with a thin plastic tube that performs a drainage function, i.e. removes condensed moisture from the system. According to the rules, it must be connected to a special drain tank or to sewer pipe, but for some reason, most often it turns out to be brought out, and the water from it drips directly on the heads or under the feet of passers-by.

Principle of operation

It is quite simple and lies in the fact that if the room needs to be cooled, then freon flows through a copper tube from the heat exchanger of the external unit to the heat exchanger of the internal one. Thus, the refrigerant is processed by the fan, and already cold air comes out from the inside of the air conditioner.

If, on the contrary, the room needs to be heated, then the external condenser heat pump starts to work as an evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, acts as a condenser. The split system is also equipped with a compressor located in the outdoor unit. Its main function is to compress freon, which contributes to a significant increase in the efficiency of the air conditioner.

Mounting methods

Indoor units of split systems can be either wall-mounted or floor-to-ceiling. The latter can be successfully attached to both the ceiling and the floor. Most often, in apartments of multi-storey buildings, wall blocks are used. They are equipped with movable blinds, with which you can change the direction of the flow of air masses.

The power of the wall units is limited by the manufacturers themselves, since if the jet of chilled air is too strong in a small room, it can literally blow away everything that is there. In the event that the room is quite spacious, for example, it is an office or a workshop, then a more powerful split system with a floor-to-ceiling indoor unit is installed in it.

Mounting tools

In order to install a split system with your own hands, you will need a number of devices that you will have to purchase or rent. The quality of the work performed and the durability of your air conditioner directly depend on what tool you will use during the installation process. You will need:

● Perforator with a set of chisels. It is useful in order to make holes in the main wall.

● Armature detector. It may be needed if the walls in the house are made of concrete. If during drilling the tool gets on the reinforcement, you will have to make another hole.

● Tube flaring kit. It will not be possible to do this work with improvised means, since it will be impossible to achieve complete tightness.

● Pipe cutter. Under no circumstances should you saw off the pipes through which the refrigerant circulates with an ordinary hacksaw. Copper chips always remain in the gap, which can subsequently lead to compressor failure.

● Scraping. This tool is used for stripping the cut ends of pipes. Ordinary files or needle files are not suitable for this purpose precisely because of the sawdust.

● Manometer. It will be needed to measure the pressure of the refrigerant in the system.

● Vacuum pump. It is necessary to process the system before filling it. Quite often you can hear the advice that it can be flushed with coolant. This is fundamentally wrong, since it does not remove moisture and spoils the compressor, just like metal chips.

● Manual bicycle pump. It is used to test the system for leaks.

● Tester and phase indicator. These devices are necessary for electrical work.

Tubes and work with them

Experts recommend buying a copper tube in a store in a whole bay at once, and it does not matter if there is an extra one. It can be applied elsewhere. But if iron filings remain in the cut tube, you risk ruining your air conditioner compressor. Also, when buying it, you need to make sure that there are no visible cracks and dents on the surface, and its ends are rolled by the manufacturer.

Before you install the split system yourself, you need to practice flaring the tubes. It is worth noting that this procedure is done only with a special tool and nothing else.

To practice working with flaring, you need to take the same small piece with the pipe in the store, but do not touch the bay itself. At the same time, it will be possible to try to cut the tube in a circular motion, as well as to scrape the product, holding it with the end down.

Installation

In order to make a high-quality installation of a split system with your own hands, you need to know the sequence of actions. Professionals recommend installing air conditioners only before or during repairs, as you still have to gouge the walls, lay electrical wiring and attach brackets. If the repair has already been made, then all communications can be hidden with the help of external boxes, but this, as you yourself understand, will not improve the interior. How to install the split system yourself correctly will help you understand the phased implementation of this work.

Stage one: wiring

If we take even the most low-power modern air conditioner, which consumes 1.5 kW of electricity, then it also needs to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm. In addition, you will need an automatic shutdown.
When connecting the wires to the input shield, it is necessary to find where the phase and zero are located with a special indicator, and after determining, mark them from both ends.

Stage two: outdoor unit

It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit of a split system on your own if your apartment is not located on the first floor, as there is a risk of falling from a height. But on the other hand, due to the presence of loggias and balconies on upper floors this problem is practically non-existent. In addition, maintenance and repair of air conditioners in such cases become more convenient.

Typically, a split system is installed on the east or north side of the house. But even if you had to attach the outdoor unit from the south, the balcony canopy will still protect it from direct exposure to sunlight.

Stage three: indoor unit

In order for the installation of a split system with your own hands to be successful, you must strictly follow the sequence of actions. First, with the help of screws, special brackets are attached to the ceiling (if it is a floor-to-ceiling air conditioner) or to the wall (wall-mounted system). Having finished this work, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening, namely, install the indoor unit and connect it. If the structure does not stagger or vibrate, then the brackets are securely fixed.

It is easiest to install a split system with a floor unit, since it usually does not need fasteners. But all the same, it is necessary to finally decide on its location, because after laying communications it will be impossible to rearrange it.

Stage four: punching gutters

If you doubt your knowledge or are not sure about something, you can always get advice from a specialist who will tell you how to install a split system yourself and connect freon tubes and electrical wires, thereby connecting the two units to each other. For this, special gutters are usually punched on the ceiling or in the walls, but only if you need to lay a hidden highway.

If you do not want to hammer, then there is another option. All wires can be closed with skirting boards or decorative plastic boxes.

If a multi-storey building consists of blocks, then before starting to punch a hole in the wall, it is necessary to determine in advance with the help of an armature detector the places where the iron core lies. In no case can you cut off the reinforcement, since it is located in the outer bearing wall. According to the standard, the hole diameter should be at least 80 mm. Sometimes you can hear recommendations about 50-60 cm, but here the thickness of the thermal insulation was clearly not taken into account.

In addition, you will definitely need an assistant to stand below and warn people passing nearby, as a piece of brick or concrete that accidentally falls from a height can injure someone. Such an incident can cost the owner too much.

Stage five: connecting pipelines

In order not to make a mistake and connect all the tubes correctly, you need to study the instructions well on how to properly install a split system. First you need to measure the desired length of the tube and cut it off with a margin of at least 1 m. All the excess will go to the bends.

Professionals warn that tubes must be bent with great care, as they can break, and sometimes wrinkles form on their surface. They create obstacles to the free flow of refrigerant, which leads to a significant increase in energy consumption. The minimum allowable bending radius is 100 mm.

Then, polyurethane foam hoses or flex thermal insulation are put on the tubes. The use of foam rubber is highly undesirable. After that, threaded flanges are put on them, and the ends are flared. Next, the pipelines are connected to fittings. In this work, the main thing is not to confuse the connection. Most air conditioner manufacturers have made cold and hot fittings different in diameter.

For drainage system you will need a piece of reinforced plastic tube. It is connected to the drain pipe using a heat-shrinkable tube or a threaded flange. Drainage should be installed at a slope of at least 5-10 mm. This is necessary for the natural flow of water.

Sometimes, for some reason, such an inclination cannot be made. In this case, you will have to additionally install a special pump for pumping moisture. I must say that its purchase can cost about 70-200 dollars. The price depends on the pump model.

Step Six: Sealing and Vacuuming

The easiest and most reliable way to check the tightness is with a soapy solution. To prepare it, you need to buy half a liter of distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it, then throw shavings of laundry soap into it.

By using the rubber hose of a bicycle hand pump connected to the outlet nipple, you can easily check the sealing quality. This is done as follows: one worker pumps air, and the other brush smears soapy water on the threaded connection and monitors the appearance of bubbles. When they stop puffing up, tighten another 1/8 turn. After completion of work, the soap coating is removed with a damp cloth.

After completing the sealing test, the system must be evacuated, i.e., remove moisture from it, dust and air that have got there. To do this, return the nipple to its place and tighten. Next, connect the vacuum pump and pump for about an hour. During this time, the moisture from the system should evaporate along with the remaining air.

Final stage: testing

For testing, the split system is filled with refrigerant from a cylinder through a special adapter on which a pressure gauge is installed. Wait until the pressure gauge shows the pressure indicated in the instructions. It is worth noting here that air conditioners operating on freon cannot be filled with freon, and vice versa.

During testing, the disconnector is turned on, and the air conditioner should enter the mode itself. If this does not happen, you need to try running the test using the remote control. remote control. If this does not help, you will still have to call specialists, but be aware that all installation warranties have already been lost.

In the event that the test is passed successfully, the cold air goes out and the blinds are set to the desired position, you can safely tell yourself and others that you now know how to install a split system yourself. And the final touch - you need to close up a hole in the wall. And not with foam, but capitally.