Water pipes

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations. Sewerage scheme in a private house Sewerage wiring in a private house

Coziness and comfort country house, a private household, a country cottage cannot be imagined without an efficient, well-functioning sewer system.

Planning, arranging and maintaining the drain complex in proper condition is the object of constant close attention of the owners of individual real estate.

Understanding all the fundamental principles of construction and maintenance of the waste mass drain, the design of the main components and assemblies of the system, conduct sewage in private house not difficult with my own hands. This results in significant cost savings Supplies and remuneration of skilled workers.

Everyone House master, who created with his own hands such a complex functional system for his own home as an autonomous sewage system, automatically becomes an indispensable specialist in its maintenance.

In the construction market of Moscow and the region, there are many companies for the arrangement of turnkey water supply and sewer works. The Moscow region positions a different price range - for a small country house, the cost is in the range of 20-30 thousand rubles. For a building of medium size and with tenants up to 6 people, a drain will cost 50-60 thousand rubles. The equipment of the drain system of a large 2-3-storey cottage with more than 12 residents can pull 200-300 thousand rubles and more.

So, how to design and implement a sewerage device in a private house that will work for decades without failures and emergencies? How to plan everything yourself, while getting a savings of 50% of the total costs? This will be discussed further in our article.

Drain design

Before starting all work, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of the entire system as a whole, as well as the composition of all its components. It is best to put your vision of the design on paper.

The drawn project will always be in sight, helping to take into account important details. Working on the drawing will allow you to plan a compact arrangement of pipes and take into account the structural features of the building.

In the project, it is important to take into account the location of each plumbing unit, designate ways to lay pipelines to equipment, calculate the required number of fittings, pipes, and materials.

Specific sections of the laid engineering network must be designated separately by calculating the length of the pipes and their diameters. When purchasing materials, this information will be very useful. The sewerage scheme in a private house will be a reliable help in its construction.

The design process involves the arrangement of internal and external schemes for the withdrawal of waste water.

When laying internal sewerage, the following are installed:

fan pipe
central riser
Pipes for shower, bath, toilet

External sewerage in a private house is responsible for the removal of external wastewater. It is arranged for supply to a septic tank or to a deep cleaning station. The last construction will have a high cost. Available near home central system sewerage system, the task of arranging the external outlet of waste water is greatly simplified, and considerable money savings are achieved.

To simplify installation, as well as to reduce costs, at the design stage, it is necessary to arrange the premises of the house associated with water consumption as compactly as possible. Thanks to this arrangement, the laying of pipes inside the house is greatly simplified.

An important tip is that the design process must begin with a riser. Only by determining the channel for the passage of the riser and the collector pipe, it is possible to outline the further location of all other constituent parts of the system.

the best way material for laying sewers - polypropylene or PVC pipes, tees, fittings. They are much cheaper, but much more durable than cast iron products;
when laying drain networks, all turns in them can be mounted using two plastic elbows with a 45 degree bend. The design greatly minimizes the chance of blockages that are common with a single 90-degree bend;
for gray kitchen drains, as well as for removing used water from the bathroom, PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters are used;
waste toilet pipes should be at least 100-110 millimeters in diameter. The total length of such pipes should be no more than 1000 millimeters.

Piping and piping

Installation work during the laying of pipelines of the drain complex is considered the most labor-intensive in construction. Equipping the house with their own hands, it will be difficult for one owner to cope with the entire amount of work. Therefore, it is recommended to have one or two assistants from among family members, neighbors, acquaintances. The speed of work and the quality of sewerage wiring will only benefit from this.

Currently, the trading network and construction Internet portals offer a wide variety of plastic pipes, revisions, tees, elbows. With the help of rubber cuffs, they connect without problems and function perfectly without letting water through. At the same time, the joints are processed with special construction silicone sealants. In places where pipe communications pass through walls, sleeves are installed on top of them to prevent damage.

An indicative list of tools that will be needed when laying sewer pipes:

Automatic sealant gun
Screwdriver Set
Hammer 200 g
Electric perforator
Pencil
Level
Bulgarian with a long cord
Hacksaw for cutting plastic and metal

Small mistakes are always possible in such works. In order to detect leaks or defects in fittings, the finished sewerage system must be tested before being put into operation. clean water. Only after making sure of the reliability of its condition, it is possible to connect it to the existing equipment of the dwelling. Storm sewers can be combined at the exit of the house with an internal drain.

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Slope and release

An important factor in the installation of drain structures is the correct slope. Modern building codes offer a slope of systems where there is no liquid pressure, to produce taking into account the diameter of the pipelines. 50 mm pipes should have a slope of 3 centimeters per meter of their length. Pipes with a diameter of 100-110 millimeters can have a slope of 2 centimeters in their length. Based on this, different points of the horizontal pipes should be at different heights.

To prevent non-docking of external wiring with internal, installation begins with the release of the sewer. The outlet is the place in the pipeline where the internal riser is connected to the pipe leading to the septic tank. It is laid deep in the ground through the foundation, below the freezing level of the soil of the region.

In extreme cases, if conditions do not allow and the outlet is higher, it must be very carefully insulated. Otherwise, in winter frosts, the pipe with drained water will freeze and create problems.

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Cesspool and septic tank for wastewater treatment

The most inexpensive way to arrange the withdrawal of used water from a private house is a cesspool. It is made at the rate of 0.5-0.8 m³ per person. The bottom of the pit is filled with concrete. The side walls are lined with bricks, blocks, can be poured with concrete. To prevent sewage from entering drinking water from above the masonry is sealed with bituminous mastic.

Sewer wiring is laid in a trench 1 meter deep. The ditch is blocked wooden floor, which is filled with liquid bitumen from above and an inspection hatch with a cover is installed.

The cesspool should be located in a convenient place accessible for sewage transport. This is necessary so that as the pit is filled, it must be cleaned. In all settlements there is a service that, at the request of the owners of private houses, sends special machines for cleaning cesspools.

When deciding to create a sewer design, the owner should familiarize himself with the full list of special devices that are widely available on the market. building materials. Plastic septic tanks, storage tanks, multi-chamber sewer systems - these devices facilitate the installation of the drain complex, ensuring the reliability and durability of its service.

The septic tank has a more reliable design, longer service life, ease of use. Its task is to clarify wastewater and bring them into the ground. A septic tank is usually made up of several sections, depending on the expected volume of water flow in the house. According to the norms, it should be located at a distance of 20 m from a residential building. The drainage installation is mounted at a distance sufficient to prevent erosion of the soil, the foundation and the ingress of sewage into basements and wells.

The drainage system should be located below the drinking water intake level, no closer than 50 m from the water intake point. In the absence of groundwater, a filtration well is arranged instead of a drainage system. It is laid out of bricks, blocks or poured with concrete in the formwork. From above, the device is closed with a lid and covered with molten bitumen for sealing.

A ready-made septic tank can be purchased in the distribution network, on Internet portals. Often, plastic containers, concrete rings are used for this purpose. It is important to remember: the pipe leading water into the drainage system must be laid at a depth of at least one and a half meters. The depth of the sewer will prevent it from freezing in winter period. The septic tank is cleaned at least once a year. Bottom sediments turn into minerals, which are successfully used as fertilizers for the garden.

Filter well

The filter well is installed with low water consumption - up to 1 m³. A sealed housing is made, the bottom is filled with some loose filter material: crushed stone, slag, gravel, granular screenings. Such a device is located at a distance of 50 m from the water intake. Its bottom is located at least one meter above the groundwater level.

Desirable when arranging sewerage for country house use modern technological materials. Here pipes made of PVC or polypropylene are best suited. good quality. Such materials will serve for decades, delighting the inhabitants of the house with their functionality, reliability, and smooth operation. If you need to replace small parts, they can be easily changed without compromising the family budget.

Thus, the rhetorical question of how to make a sewer in a private house or cottage with your own hands is an attractive topic that every property owner can do for himself, choosing the best option from a variety of designs.

Having understood the ups and downs of construction, having correctly installed the sewerage system, the owner of the mansion will simply be able to solve all the issues that arise during the entire long period of its operation, without involving specialists from specialized companies for this.

Living in a private house, every owner dreams of creating maximum comfort in it, ensuring a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry in advance about such an important issue as installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to do all the work competently, correctly and not harm the environment.

At self construction sewerage system you can decently save. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you entered from our Remontik website.

The choice of a sewer system scheme should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your home.

When planning, we recommend to provide for the most compact placement of rooms for which water will be drained and supplied (bathrooms, shower rooms, bathrooms, laundries and kitchens). But the best option is to place it in such a way that all plumbing equipment will be tied to one collector, through which wastewater will be drained into a septic tank or cesspool.

In the presence of a large country house, which provides for several different rooms with drainage / supply of water located in different parts buildings, experts advise giving preference to such a sewerage scheme, in which there will be at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms, baths and kitchens are on different floors, then you will have to install risers.

Installation of sewerage in a private house. Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a country house or in the country is reduced to the installation of external and internal sewage.

The work on the internal sewerage should include the installation fan pipe, riser and piping to areas such as kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. to the outer or outdoor sewerage everything that is outside the house applies, that is, a system of pipes that go from the house to a deep cleaning station (a rather expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or filtration field).

Of course, if you can connect to centralized system drains, then the task will be greatly simplified. However, below we will consider an autonomous system that includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

First of all, you need to deal with the internal circuit. Even during the design of the house, care must be taken to ensure that all the premises where sewerage will be carried out are as close as possible to each other, since this approach simplifies the scheme of the internal sewage system. Each private house involves the installation of an individual sewerage scheme, which can vary greatly.

Therefore, you must take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used in the toilet for draining. For gray drains entering the sewer from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows that are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will minimize the possibility of blockage in the future (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to eliminate it).

It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewerage scheme. In addition, it is much easier to arrange an internal sewerage system using such pipes.

First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.

But first of all, you should figure out as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, since in the future you can use it to complete the calculation of materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed to install a sewer system in a private house.

You can make a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is better to buy several sheets of graph paper for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure and a sharp pencil.

The sewerage scheme for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house on a scale. If you do not know the dimensions, then you will have to use a tape measure and carefully measure everything.

Next, you need to decide on the location of the risers.

Then, on the plan, you need to mark the locations of the plumbing and decide how they will be connected.

Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to plumbing fixtures, and all connecting elements (bends, tees, etc.).

All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.

Now decide on the size of the riser and the fan pipe.

Add the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewerage.

Another stage is the external sewerage. It is necessary to draw up its scheme: the location of the pipes coming from the septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet. At the same time, do not forget all the available SNiPs.

Sewerage installation in a private house: choice of pipes

For the reason that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, are significantly different, then the pipes for such sewerage systems must be different. Today, PVC or PP pipes are usually used for laying internal sewerage, which are distinguished by their characteristic in gray. For risers and sun loungers, their diameter should be 110 mm, and for the outlet - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewage, and other solutions should be used for external ones.

Typically, pipes that are installed underground from a septic tank or deep cleaning station to discharge are orange in color, which is extremely simple - the bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground. But the pipes used for external sewage differ from others not only in color, but also in the requirements that apply to them. They have high rigidity, since they have a significant load.

More reliable designs are also offered, a striking example of which are two-layer corrugated pipes. But their laying depth, when maintaining a sewer system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite enough to drain wastewater.

Below we will consider all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made from different materials among which the most used are:

Cast iron.

Advantages: durable and strong pipes, able to withstand high loads.

Disadvantages: heavy and fragile, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness may form, which can cause blockage.

Polypropylene.

Advantages: flexible and lightweight, making them in high demand for internal sewage. Cope well with high flow temperatures.

Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.

Polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages: reminiscent of cast iron, light and inexpensive. Most often used for outdoor sewage.

Cons: not well tolerated high temperature sewage, fragile (crack, do not bend).

Sewerage installation in a private house: pipe laying

Perhaps the most difficult process in the construction of an autonomous sewer in country house is piping and piping. If you are going to do this work on your own, then call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling it with water, and only then, when you are sure of the reliability of all seams, proceed to full operation.

Pipe connection

As mentioned earlier, the easiest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewage. Today, a huge number of products are offered on the construction market, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes, which are easily and reliably connected at the docking points, which is ensured by the presence of rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with sanitary sealant. Well, where the pipe passes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.

Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of a pipe in a non-pressure system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per 1 meter. Keep this in mind, as different points of the pipeline will have to be laid at different heights to provide the necessary slope.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the external and internal sewage systems, you need to start installing the sewer in a private house from the outlet (the boundary part of the sewer connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe leaving the house).

The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the depth of soil freezing corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the outlet even higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after warmer weather.

If you did not take care of this when building the foundation, then you will have to punch a hole in its structure that will easily fit a drain pipe with a sleeve. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a larger diameter than that of the sewer (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary so that you can set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm per 1 m).

Wiring and installation of the riser

It is good if the riser is in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how exactly the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, pendants, etc.).

To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, adapters must be used. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, shower and bath, you need to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water seals that will protect the sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

On each riser, it is imperative to mount a special tee with which you can clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, mount the cleaning after each turn of the pipe.

Exhaust pipe outlet

It should be said right away that the output and installation of the fan pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:

maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air discharge and water hammer do not occur;
increase the durability of sewerage;
ventilation of the entire system, which is required for effective work septic tank.

The fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and the fan pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can bring the pipe to the attic at any convenient angle.

We do not recommend simplifying the work by combining a fan pipe with ventilation or a chimney. In addition, it is necessary to locate its exit as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, house ventilation and a chimney at different levels.

Summing up all the above, we can note the following:

at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from plumbing to the riser;

it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser, in the course of connecting other additional devices (avoid reducing the diameter);

adhere to one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be located to the riser (the toilet should be closest to the riser);

where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision;

in the wiring system for ventilation, there must be a fan pipe.

Installation of external sewerage in a private house

You can equip an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands different ways, which we will discuss below. It is important to correctly choose a system that would fully satisfy the needs.

It is necessary to decide on the scheme for arranging sewerage, taking into account the following factors:

permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
the number of people who live in the house daily;
daily water consumption by one person (depends on the presence of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet bowl, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
groundwater level;
soil structure and type;
the size of your area around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
climatic conditions.

All sewerage systems for a private house can be divided into 2 types:

storage systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container);

facilities used for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural treatment and two overflowing wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of sewerage in a private house. Even 50 years ago, this method simply had no alternatives. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.

A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. In it, you can make walls of concrete rings, concrete, bricks and other material, leaving the soil as the bottom. After sewage enters the pit from the house, relatively clean water, being purified, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was full, they simply buried it and dug a new hole in another place.

It is worth considering the fact that it is possible to install sewerage in a private house with the help of a cesspool only when the volume of drains per day does not exceed 1 m 3. Only in this way can soil microorganisms that feed on organic matter have time to process water that penetrates into the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if this norm is exceeded by the volume of wastewater, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will provoke pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.

If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, it will reduce bad smell emanating from it, and the cleaning process will be significantly accelerated. But be that as it may, you should not risk it.

Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but happens only a few times a week, without spending a lot of water. However, it should be taken into account that ground water must lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. The cesspool has a low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.

Sealed container, presented in the form of a storage tank

In this case, a special sealed container must be installed next to the house, where sewage will flow from the house through pipes. You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewer is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.

This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely filled, you will have to call a sewage truck, which will not be very expensive. The frequency of emptying the tank is directly dependent on the volume of wastewater and the size of the tank. For example, if there are 4 people in the house who use the toilet, washing machine, bath and shower, then the volume of the storage tank must be at least 8 m 3, and it must be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Therefore, if a high occurrence of groundwater is noted on your site, then it makes sense to use an airtight cesspool to equip the sewerage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution.

But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.

It is also important that the cover of the storage tank is well insulated, and the pipeline has good protection from freezing. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. The cheapest option is to use used Eurocubes, and the most expensive one is concrete pouring or brick. Do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.

Single-chamber septic tank - the easiest way to clean the soil

It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with an insignificant layer of rubble (not less than 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is poured over it with the same layer. Otherwise, sewage from the house penetrates through pipes into the well, where water seeps through crushed stone, sand and soil, being cleaned by 50%. Naturally, sand and gravel greatly increases the quality of water treatment, but does not solve this problem radically.

In a private house, it is not recommended to build sewers using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in the case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and low groundwater levels. In addition, periodically you need to change the sand and gravel, as they become silted.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

The construction of overflow settling wells and filter wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.

Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not, but is sprinkled with sand and gravel.

Waste water from the house is fed into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom, while greasy waste floats to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second one with the help of an overflow pipe approximately 2/3 of its height, which is under a slight slope, allowing water to flow there calmly.

Clarified water enters the second well, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, being purified even better.

The first well is used as a sump, and the second one is used as a filter. The first well fills up with feces from time to time and to clean it, you will need to call a special sewage machine. This should be done approximately once every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.

The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be carried out using special microorganisms.

It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during the flood period, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If there is sandy or sandy soil on the territory of your site, then this will be an excellent option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.

Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, including several separate tanks, which are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.

The first capacity of the septic tank is used to settle the drains, as is the case in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second tank or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then the more clarified water goes to the filtration fields.

A fairly large underground area (approximately 30 m 2) acts as a filtration field. This is where primary wastewater treatment takes place. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%.

If on your land plot if there is sandy or sandy soil, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from crushed stone and sand. Once the water has passed the filtration field, it can be collected in pipelines and directed to drainage ditches or pilot wells. It is forbidden to plant above the filtration field edible trees and vegetables, because in this case you will break a flower bed.

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Over time, the filtration can become silted up and it will have to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. This is a huge amount of work in which your site may suffer.

Installation of a sewerage system with a filtration field is only suitable when groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station

Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is really possible to complete a complete installation of sewage in a private house. And this despite high level ground water.

This station acts as a capacity, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, asking professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $1,200, which is not cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require a constant supply of air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. In that pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, a special filter is installed, into which aerobic bacteria actually settle. It turns out a kind of filtering field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.

Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). Such purification allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing the car and many other purposes.

From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to the storage tank or to the drainage ditch.

For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is easy - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not need electricity. The downside is that it needs regular maintenance, as bacteria will simply die if left out of the sewage. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.

Artificial treatment stations - septic tank with forced air supply

This is an accelerated cleaning station, where natural processes occur artificially. The installation of a sewer system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for an air pump and connecting an air distributor.

Such a septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are interconnected. Through the sewer pipe, water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, is mixed with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their vital activity.

Then the water is mixed with sludge and goes to the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump. Further, with the help of a special pump, the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank.

Forced air supply provides fast wastewater treatment, and water after treatment can be used for various technical needs (car washing, watering the garden, etc.).

Of course, the aerotank will cost you quite a lot (from $ 3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. When installing sewers of this type there are no restrictions. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that the bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then having concluded from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

septic tank with biofilter;

A few general rules for sewerage in a private house

There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.

Residential building location:

50 m from aeration treatment plants;
300 m from drain wells and station;
25 m from the filter field;
8 m from the filter well.

Septic location:

not less than 20-50 m from any water sources (well, well, reservoir);
not less than 10 m from the garden.

Before proceeding with the installation of sewerage in a private house, you must make its project. You should not work without it, since sewage is such a system in which approximation is unacceptable. Better to contact project Bureau or to architects who will help you create a quality project, taking into account the climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It's good if you do a sewerage project along with a house project even before construction.

All work on the installation of the sewer system is not difficult. You only need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For ground work, you need to hire an excavator, although you can do it yourself. The main is the development of the project and right choice sewer systems.

Unlikely modern man can imagine its existence without comfort and the usual benefits of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or summer cottage, it is first of all necessary to properly equip the water supply system, and of course the sewer system in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.

The arrangement of the sewerage system allows not only to use the bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or a washing machine and bring life in a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.

The installation of a sewer system is a laborious process and requires a serious approach, in addition, it is best to design a sewer on initial stage construction of private buildings.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out water supply and only then carry out the installation of the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.

The main types of sewer systems

The modern sewer system is classified into three main types:

Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
Outdoor, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, cleaning stations, cesspools, settling tanks, septic tank.
The most important step is to carry out the sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and wiring to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage, proper arrangement is very important, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.

Materials that will be needed when arranging the sewer system

The basis of any type of sewer system is a common riser, into which wastewater flows. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and merges into the sump, which is located on the site.

Necessary materials:

Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
Branches for the sewer system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
Tees of the desired style, which are necessary for branching the system.
Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes of various diameters.
Audits to control the functioning of the sewer system and access to clean it in case of blockage.
Plugs for bells, which cover unused holes.
Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
Sealant - plumbing silicone in pipes and a gun that is needed to apply it.

Important! For the riser, you will need a pipe of a sufficiently large diameter (from 100 mm), since this pipe diameter is used to drain waste from the toilet. Install a riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-equipped shaft.

In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that everything is at hand during the work.

The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to align future places, joints, which will include outlet pipes from sinks, toilet bowls, bathtubs.

To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leakage, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.

Since plastic pipes are most often used in the arrangement of the sewer system, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. the more reliable the fastening, the less likely the deformation of the sewer pipes, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.

Self-assembly of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself sewerage is quite simple, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to follow the sequence of work, purchase high-quality materials, and prepare the tool you need for the job.

Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all the sewer installation work quickly and efficiently. However, in the process of their work, you can monitor the progress of the work, gaining experience and at the same time controlling the quality.

It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub exit at an angle to prevent clogging and ensure a normal level of system performance. The angle of inclination per meter should be between 2 and 4 degrees.

You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging the sewerage system - give preference better pipes with an internal nasty surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after connection and docking. To do this, it is necessary to build a box or gutter of drywall or other waterproof material. This design will achieve reliable fixation and get a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.

Important! When installing the transition from a vertical to a horizontal drain, it is advisable to install a connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees in this place. This will help to significantly reduce the load on the nodes and pipes from pressure when draining water.

To install the transition node, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install an inspection sleeve, which will allow you to clean the system in case of clogging.

At the next stage, the drain line is taken out of the house. in the foundation, a hole of the required size is made and a corner is cut out at an angle of 15 degrees, and then a constant level of inclination of the drain pipe is set, inclusive, until it enters the drain pit, no more than 2-3 degrees.

Do not make a smaller slope or, on the contrary, tilt the pipe too much. A small slope will slow down the flow of drains, and with a strong slope, the sewage will pass too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to clogging and disruption of the sewer system.

Important! If the location is too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and too large a distance can cause stagnation in the system, especially if it has many joints and turns.

At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your area. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench must be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final backfilling of the soil.

It is equally important to install several small manholes along the entire length of the sewer pipes, which will allow an audit of the sewer system in case of blockages. Immediately before laying the sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dewy as possible without elevation changes.

Sewerage in a private house is necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you bring there only the summer months. I will help you understand the basic schemes of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of work.

sewerage scheme

Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. You can use the street and garbage pit only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.

Before you make a sewer in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:

Analysis of existing communications. If the settlement has a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.

To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.

Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it rarely needs to be pumped out, a cesspool is the opposite. The optimal choice is a septic tank combined with a biological treatment plant, but high cost acts as a limiting factor.

Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
Room allocation. The sewerage of a private house should tie together all the water drain points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it at outer wall, on the side of the house where the reservoir will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.

Advance planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and evaluate whether the project will be “elevating”.

If the preliminary stage is completed successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.

Materials for creating an autonomous sewer

An independent sewerage device in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum material required for its implementation?

The main items of expenditure are reflected in the table:

Illustration	Structural element
	Ready septic. The optimal solution for an autonomous sewer system is the installation of a septic tank industrial production(Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. Main disadvantage- high price.
	Plastic container for a septic tank. As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for waste accumulation. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". Plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices.
	concrete rings. If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, it is impossible to do without attracting a crane.
	Pipes for external sewerage. To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature extremes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laying at a depth.
	Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage. The internal sewer wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Together with pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings for making turns, bends, revisions, etc.
	Pipe thermal insulation. When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated rooms (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is desirable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:

gravel and sand for excavation and laying of the drainage layer;
cement mortar;
sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.

outdoor work

Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank

Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:

outdoor- consist in the construction of a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
domestic- involve the installation of pipe wiring in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.

If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.

The most effective design for autonomous sewerage of a private house is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but provides for their processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.

The septic tank works quite simply:

settling. First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste occurs with the release of gaseous reaction products and the mineralization of residues.

overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified effluents pass through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage retains another part of the pollution, because almost pure water enters the soil.

Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle - both home-made and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more efficient cleaning.

Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.

The calculation of the volume of a septic tank is carried out according to the formula:

V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, where

V- the desired volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
3 - average duration of wastewater treatment, days.

If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people, the volume will be as follows:

V \u003d 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 \u003d 2.4 m3.

Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewer tank

Now let's figure out how to properly make a sewer in a private house. The algorithm of work on the installation of a septic tank in the table:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Digging a pit. In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a pit for the installation of tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of backfill and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
	Foundation preparation. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bed up to 20 cm thick. We ram the bed. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing cushion made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well.
	Installation of containers. We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to prevent the ingress of untreated drains into the ground.
	Tank bottom device. We make the lower part of the sump tight by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bituminous mastic and lay waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated blank made of reinforced concrete.
	Overflow design. We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. In order to prevent organic waste from getting into the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows you to make a selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed.
	Cover and necklines. Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair.
	Ventilation and hatches. We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - so the unpleasant smell will disappear faster. We cover wells or separately derived necks with hatches suitable diameter by fixing them with cement mortar.

If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is desirable to seal it from the outside using roofing material or bituminous mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks, the so-called clay castle, will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.

Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house

The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe connecting the tank to the house. Wastewater will flow through it to the treatment/storage facility.

Pipe laying technology:

Illustration	Operation in progress
	Digging and preparing trenches. Between the house and the septic tank, we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient flow, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sandy bedding up to 15 cm at the bottom. We moisten the bedding and ram.
	Pipe laying. In the trench we lay a pipe for draining waste. The optimal pipe diameter for the outer part of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm.
	Pipe insulation. If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with roll material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter.
	Entering a septic tank. We can see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, we carefully seal the hole.
	Entering the house. The entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is desirable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated.

After completing these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then we lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.

It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.

How to make sewer wiring

Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network

The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will describe its main elements:

Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (minimum 110 mm), which combines all the contours together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outlet sewer pipe.
fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. It is discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to a ventilation pipe located above the roof level.

Without a drain pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the valves. In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.

Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drain to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually made gravity-flowing (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimal slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be larger than the diameter of the line.

Revisions- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet, equipped with a closing hatch. The audit is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline to remove blockages or preventive maintenance.

Stage 5. Pipe connection

All pipes are interconnected using fittings that allow you to make turns, branches, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is desirable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.

Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easy to assemble with your own hands :

Illustration	Mounting operation
	Pipe cutting. Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the smooth end of the pipe to the desired size.
	Chamfer removal. We clean the place of trimming, removing burrs from the outer inside- they can cause blockage.
	Trumpet preparation. We insert a rubber sealing ring into the socket. We level the sealant, laying it in the groove and making sure that there are no bends or creases.
	Pipe connection. We insert the nozzle into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the outlet or revision hole is in the desired position.

After assembly, all pipes are installed on bearing surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in strobes or behind the skin) and open gaskets. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.

Stage 6. Connecting to plumbing fixtures

At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:

Toilet bowl- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected by a corrugation or a piece of pipe either with a riser outlet or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.

Bathtub or shower- are connected to the sewerage by means of compact siphons which are placed under drain openings. The optimum diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.

Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.

Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- are built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon is usually bulb-shaped and placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, a separate outlet must be installed. sewer pipe, equipped with a bell with a rubber sealing cuff.

Conclusion

The installation technology of the sewage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly get acquainted with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you have in the comments to this material.

Ensuring comfort and quality of life in a country house is an important point for any owner of such a building. One of the factors that make it possible to comfortable life, is the convenience of the outflow of used water and waste products. Properly calculated at the design stage and subsequently properly built sewerage in a private house will be a guarantee long-term operation where there will be no problems. Similar design you can create with your own hands, if you approach the issue with maximum responsibility.

Primary requirements

In order to avoid any problems in the process of creating a sewerage system in your own home, it is best to follow as much as possible in this process all the requirements and standards that are described in the regulatory documentation - SNiP. In this case, everything will definitely function flawlessly for a long period of time.

In any building where a water pipe is laid and there is a water intake, a system must be made that will remove the runoff masses. Mechanisms for drainage should also be created at the sites. In general, such a network can not only provide a comfortable life, but also do not harm the environment, and will also significantly increase the time of using the building.

Typically, sewerage consists of the following systems:

storm, which diverts water;
outdoor;
internal.

They must be laid in such a way that various building sanitation requirements for sewerage in your own home are met.

Among these requirements are:

ensuring normal cleansing;
no risk of flooding the building;
ensuring the required volume of wastewater;
tight accumulation and transportation of sewage.

In terms of requirements for internal systems of this type, then they should consist of the following elements:

a riser to which all pipes are attached;
dilution of pipes, which pumps wastewater in the direction of the riser;
plumbing fixtures for drainage.

According to the norms, in the mechanism, part of which is located in the building, there must be enough space for the free transportation of liquid from the places where the drain is carried out to the pipes that lead out of the building. When laying sewers inside the building, pipes made of cast iron or some kind of polymers are used. At the outlet, the size of such a pipe should be 11 centimeters. Naturally, in this mechanism there must also be ventilation. Usually it is carried out through the riser. Above each element, an exhaust space is made that overlooks the roof.

If we talk about the project of external systems, then its creation is carried out taking into account the requirements prescribed in SNiP number 2.04.03-85.

So normative document the following points should be taken into account:

wells for maintenance and cleaning should be installed in the mechanism;
to clean up effluents, an installation using biomethods is needed;
if we are talking about a gravity network, then polymer, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes are used;
pipes that are located outside the boundaries of the building should be about fifteen centimeters in diameter and laid at the level of ten to twelve centimeters;
if there are few floors in the building, then several houses can be combined into a single network;
if it is impossible to arrange a gravity system, then it is better to opt for a pressure sewer.

Another important point is the choice of design. This is really important when designing an autonomous sewer network.

There can be three options for septic tanks that are used:

aeration tanks;
storage septic tank;
treatment.

Now let's talk about them a little more. Aerotanks - latest solutions using several cleaning methods. After using such a septic tank, the liquid is cleared to almost 100 percent. Water can be easily drained into the ground, a reservoir and used for irrigation. The storage category septic tank is an improved version of the cesspool, in which cleaning is not carried out, but only drains are collected. When the septic tank is filled to a certain level, it becomes necessary to clean it. This is usually done with the help of special sewage equipment.

If we talk about the differences from the cesspool, then no filtration into the soil in this case is carried out. This means that no harm is done to the environment. But still, this type of septic tank has been used extremely infrequently in recent years due to the high cost of the cost of services of special sewage equipment. This type can be used only if you live in the house relatively infrequently.

Treatment septic tanks are used not only for accumulation, but also for the purification of sewage. As a rule, at first, the effluents in them are settled, after which decomposition occurs at the biological level with the help of special bacteria - anaerobic and aerobic, which are specially added to the ground for this purpose.

Their use allows you to purify the water by about 65 percent, after which it goes into the ground, where it is further purified.

For this reason, the best types of soil for this category of septic tanks will be sandy and sandy loam. If the earth is clay, then it is better to use another septic tank, although this option is not prohibited in this case. It’s just that then the installation of a septic tank will turn out to be too expensive, since there will still be the necessary special installation to create filtration fields.

Kinds

In your own home, sewage can be of several types and is classified according to various criteria.

There are usually three of these criteria:

the location of the sewer;
the purposes for which it will be used;
difference in the type of waste that will be collected.

If we take the first two criteria, then the system under consideration is as follows.

outdoor. It is a complex for receiving wastewater from buildings and other facilities and transporting them to special treatment facilities or a place of discharge into a centralized sewerage intake. Typically, this includes pipelines, as well as wells of a rotary and revision type.
Internal. Such a sewerage system collects wastewater inside the house thanks to special water intake devices and pipeline systems, after which it transports them along the main line to a special external sewerage complex.
Cleaning waste. Before wastewater is discharged into the ground or a reservoir, it must be cleaned thanks to a special four-stage system, which consists of several levels (physical-chemical, disinfection, mechanical, biological).

If we take the criterion of collected effluents, then sewage is next.

Domestic. It can also be called household or household fecal. It is usually referred to as K1. This type of sewage includes the whole complex of devices that are connected to various plumbing fixtures. This includes trays, drains, siphons, funnels, as well as a network of various pipelines, which consist of pipes of different sizes, fasteners and fittings.
Industrial or industrial. Usually in the schemes, its designation goes under the abbreviation K3. This type sewerage is intended to divert water, which is used in some technological process. This type of sewerage is not used in their own homes, but it is impossible not to say about it.
Stormy or rainy. This type is usually referred to as K2. Such a system is a whole set of downpipes, gutters, sand traps, storm water inlets, funnels, and so on. Usually, most of such a mechanism is laid in the open, but pipelines under the foundation can also be used to transport rainwater somewhere outside the site.

It should also be noted that sewerage in a private house can be of two types:

autonomous;
centralized.

The type chosen will depend on where exactly the sewage type will be drained - into your own septic tank or into the central line through a collector type well. If the local sewerage runs close to the house and connection to it will be cheap, then it will be more profitable to connect to it due to the fact that the costs of use in this case will still be lower.

In addition, treatment systems can be different in nature.

These are the following types:

septic tank:
dry closet;
biocleaning with the help of a special unit;
cesspool.

The septic tank has already been mentioned, and therefore let's talk about other types. A dry closet would be a suitable solution only for a cottage where the owners rarely live. Yes, and he does not solve the issue of drains from the shower and kitchen. Purification using a special station is advantageous due to high performance and a good degree of wastewater treatment. But the costs for this option will be considerable due to the need for energy costs and the high cost of equipment. The cesspool option was the most common not so long ago. But recently, the number of drains has increased significantly, and few cesspools can cope with it. In addition, the risk of land pollution has increased significantly for this reason.

Preparatory work

Each of the above solutions for wastewater treatment plants requires a clear understanding of the device and the purposes for which it will be used. For this reason, before starting work on the creation of sewage, it is necessary to carry out necessary training so that the system can really work with high quality after it is built and put into operation.

What should be taken into account?

Before you start creating a sewer, you should calculate everything to the smallest detail. And the first factor that will be extremely important is the choice of a place for installing the system.

Its placement will be influenced by such factors.

How close are groundwater.
Relief features of the territory where the sewerage will be located. Here we are talking about the fact that the movement of water is usually carried out by gravity, which means that the slope of the soil will be extremely important.
The physical structure of the soil.
Presence or absence of sources of drinking water.
How much does the soil freeze in winter?

Sandy soil is usually loose, which means that liquid can easily pass through it, which means that there is a possibility of contamination with household waste. Using the simplest solution as an example - a septic tank made of concrete rings or tires, we will consider what needs to be considered. First you need to calculate its volume. We will proceed from the fact that one family member who lives in the house takes two hundred liters of water, which must be settled for three days.

That is, for a family with four members, a septic tank with a volume of just under 2.5 thousand liters will be needed.

In addition to the factors mentioned above, it should be said that the distance to the nearest residential building should be no more than five meters. It should be the same to the neighboring site. If there is a highway nearby, then the distance should be twenty meters. And if there is a reservoir or a water intake point nearby, then the distance should be at least fifty meters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that if an elevated level of groundwater is observed on the site, then the design must be supplemented with a pump or pump for transporting groundwater to the filter well.

Another factor to consider is the choice of pipe materials.. It is from this factor that the time of using the entire mechanism will depend. If we talk about sewage of an internal type, then pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross section of 11 centimeters are usually used here, and for breeding - with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters. Their cost will be lower than metal pipes, and their service life will be longer.

Connections should usually be made with rubber collars that are sealed with a special silicone-based substance. If we are talking about installing the outer part, then use other pipes orange color. They are made in such color scheme to make them easier to find in the ground. They are made of especially strong plastic and also have a diameter of 11 centimeters.

Design

As it became clear, any installation and construction work cannot be carried out without prior creation project documentation. And plumbing is no exception. A sewerage scheme is being formed from a general layout plan for the so-called wet elements. The wiring can be configured in any way, depending on the wishes of the customer.

Here are some important things to keep in mind:

sewage discharge from the room where the toilet is located should be carried out exclusively using pipes with a cross section of 10-12 centimeters and a length of at least 1 meter;
under drains from the shower room and kitchen, you can use polyvinyl chloride or five-centimeter-sized polypropylene pipes;
if the building has two or more floors and there will be more than one toilet, then they should be placed exclusively on top of each other (for one-story house this rule does not work and you can place it anywhere);
wiring bends should be made by combining two plastic elbows, the bend of which has an angle of forty-five degrees, which should minimize the risk that the sewer will clog;

the toilet should be connected directly to the sewer riser at a minimum distance from the pipe;
other plumbing fixtures should be connected to sewer network above the point of connection of the toilet bowl, in order to exclude the possibility of feces getting into the drain lines;
the sewer riser must be taken out to the roof and a fan hood should be installed on it to ensure ventilation of the sewer inside;
the greatest distance for connecting plumbing-type appliances to the riser should not be more than three meters, and the toilet bowl - a meter.

In addition, other expert advice should be given:

when creating an internal sewage project, you must first draw up a building scheme on a scale, before that, having carried out all measurements with a tape measure;
now it is necessary to determine the place of installation of risers;
conditionally on all floors we mark the location of plumbing fixtures;
depict the location of the pipes on the graph;
determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe based on the number of devices;
we find the exit point of the sewer from the building;
sum up the length of all pipes and carry out the calculation of shaped elements;
now we draw a conclusion and draw up a sewerage scheme.

Mounting

So, now let's move on to the direct installation of sewage in our own home and find out how to properly carry it out. Laying the sewer after the project has been made and calculated, should start with the installation of a septic tank. To do this, you need to dig a pit somewhere three meters deep. In advance, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the septic tank, taking into account the number of people living in the apartment. You can make a pit yourself, but to speed up the process it will not be superfluous to involve special equipment. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the pit. Its thickness should be at least fifteen centimeters.

Now we create a formwork structure from boards or chipboard, which must immediately be reinforced with a special reinforcing belt. You can make such a belt from rods made of metal. To tie up such rods for greater confidence, you can use steel wire. Now we make a couple of holes in the formwork and install pipe trims in them. These segments will become the entry points for the system highway and the overflow pipe that connects the sections of the septic tank.

Now the entire formwork structure should be concreted. A vibrating tool is used to evenly distribute the solution. Note that this design must be monolithic, which is why it is usually poured once. It should also be cited as an example if installation is required two-chamber septic tank. First, the bottom of the first compartment is formed by pouring concrete. As a result, we get a sealed structure where the waste will settle. It is in this part that solid large waste fractions will settle below. But in the second part, a slightly purified liquid will accumulate.

Due to the presence of a pipe that connects both compartments, it will go to the adjacent chamber.

There is no need to make a bottom in the second compartment due to the fact that the section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. You can also use concrete rings for this, which will simply be stacked one on top of the other. At the bottom we make a thick layer of sedimentary rocks. It will filter drains. You can use gravel, pebbles or crushed stone. Between the parts we install an overflow pipe. It is located somewhere at the level of the upper third of the wells. Note that usually summer residents use a two-section septic tank when carrying out the sewerage installation process. Although, if desired, there may be more compartments, which will provide higher quality cleaning.

It is also easy to make a ceiling for a septic tank yourself. This requires concrete and formwork construction. Or you can take reinforced concrete slab. In this part, a special inspection hatch must be made. It will allow you to control the hood, as well as filling the sections. After all this, when the installation is completed, it is required to fill the pit with sand or earth. It is necessary to clean the sump somewhere every two to three years.

The next step will be laying the highway. It will be carried out from the septic tank to the area where the sewer pipe comes out of the foundation. Note that the pipeline must go as if on a slope so that the waste water can flow down. It is important that the larger the size of the pipes used, the smaller the inclined angle will be necessary for the high-quality operation of the line. But the average is about two degrees.

Note that the sewer should be laid lower than the freezing level of the ground. Usually we are talking about an indicator of one meter, but sometimes an indicator of 70 centimeters will be enough. Although if the region is cold, then the level should be increased to one and a half meters. Before laying the pipes at the bottom of the trench, a dense sand cushion should be created, compacting it well. This will allow for reliable pipe fixation and prevent the line from collapsing during seasonal soil displacement.

If we talk about the most correct scheme, then to give best solution there will be a laying of a direct highway from the building to the collector. If necessary, you can make a turn and install a well for inspection in this place. You can use cast-iron or plastic pipes intended for the external type of sewage. At the joints, everything should be done as tightly as possible. When everything is ready, the trench is covered with sand, and only then soil is laid on it.

Corrugated pipes are used to connect the inside to the outside. This makes it possible to ensure reliability during ground movements.

To lay pipes in a building, we will need:

sharper knife;
saw for working with plastic;
rubber seal kits.

First we need to prepare the shaped elements.

These are the following elements:

transition sleeves that can provide a transition between pipes of different sizes;
connection fittings for three or four holes, which allow you to make a pipeline branching;
transitional branches necessary for the formation of transitions between pipes with the same size;
bends that form angles, they can be 45 or 90 degrees.

In general, sewer installation in your own home will not be difficult if everything is calculated correctly. First, vertical risers are installed in the required quantity. Usually they are installed from the basement to the roof, so that the whole structure can be successfully combined with the ventilation shaft. The place for installation is usually selected closer to the toilets, which should be located no further than a meter from the riser. If the toilets are located, say, one below the other, and the house is small in size, then one riser for such a building will be quite enough.

Note that the farthest plumbing fixture should not be further from the riser than five meters.

Now the pipes are connected to the riser. First, the toilet pipes are connected, which should be lower than all the others. After that, the side branches are connected. Sometimes a large number of plumbing fixtures can be attached to the supply. It should be said that the thickness of the supply pipe should be taken with the calculation of the overall performance. The last step will be to connect the devices in question using siphons. Then everything will depend on the selected category of waste disposal, the properties of the land, as well as how groundwater behaves. Therefore, for each case, everything will be individual.

It will also not be superfluous to give an example of creating a country sewerage mechanism without pumping. Summer residents are looking at such systems more and more often, and therefore it will not be superfluous to explain how to make them. Note that such systems are represented by a two or three-chamber septic tank, which will be active at the same time. If the mechanism has two tanks, the sump will occupy three quarters of the structure, and for three-chamber ones - one second. In the first part, the sedimentation of heavy substances is carried out. As it fills, the liquid also enters another compartment, where the light parts are separated. In the third part, the water is completely cleaned of dirt and enters a well for drainage or a filtration field. It is important that both containers are airtight.

This type of system requires pumping, but not as clean as when using a simple septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal sewer pump, the cost of which will depend on various factors. Similar equipment will be used to remove the sediment that accumulates in the sump. It should be noted that the frequency of this procedure will be affected by both the composition of wastewater and the size of the reservoir. The structure will be subject to cleaning when the height of the sludge reaches the overflow level. Then it will need to be pumped out.

For six months, somewhere around 70-80 liters of sediment usually accumulate in the tank.

Standards for the location of sewer outlets for different plumbing fixtures

Any sewer can be designed in such a way that all plumbing fixtures that are connected to it have a minimum number of different intermediate elements, which will only complicate the arrangement of the mechanism and significantly reduce its reliability. An ideal solution can be called when the siphon coming after the plumbing fixture is immediately connected with a smooth pipe with a previously installed sewer socket. For implementation, it will not be superfluous to know exactly where the plumbing equipment will be located even before creating the project. And it would be even better to know which plumbing fixture will be installed in a given place.

At the same time, for different categories of plumbing equipment, there are features that make it possible to simplify the sewer connection. It and the placement of various plumbing fixtures will be seriously influenced by factors such as the level of the clean type floor. Indeed, in relation to this parameter, the height of the equipment and sewer sockets and the location of the water sockets are being set. This parameter should be known in advance, which is why the installation of sewage pipelines can be carried out even before the floor screed is poured and a finish type coating is applied.

Now let's say a little more about the plumbing standards related to the system for certain devices.

The height of the siphon connection to the sewer socket for the washbasin should be at the level of 53-55 centimeters from the level of the clean floor. Its center should be directly in the center of the washbasin. To create a connection, you can use sewer pipes with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters.
The center of the socket should be at the level of 22-24 centimeters, if we are talking about a wall-hung toilet.
In the case of a sink, this figure is 30-45 centimeters right in the center of the sink.
If a garbage grinder is built into the sink, then the bell center should be at a height of 30-40 centimeters, but shifted to any side.
For an attached toilet, this figure will be somewhere around 18-19 centimeters.
For washing machines and dishwashers, the connection of the drain hoses will be at a height of 60-70 centimeters.
For bathtubs, as well as shower cabins with a tray, it is necessary that the bell-shaped center of the sewer pipe with a diameter of 5 centimeters be at a distance of no more than 6 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. If this is not possible, then the installation should be carried out on a stand. Although there are a number of bath models, the connection of which is carried out at the level of 8-10, or even 13 centimeters.

These recommendations work almost always, as manufacturers of such goods try to comply with generally accepted standards, which, by the way, are not legally prescribed anywhere. But in reality, anything can happen, so the actual presence of equipment that will be installed in a predetermined place will be a big plus.

Possible problems and solutions

It should be said that quite often, even without violations during installation, there are problems in the sewerage system in your own home.

The most common troubles are as follows.

The sewer smells bad. To eliminate the appearance of unpleasant odors, toilets and sinks are attached to the mechanism using u-shaped siphons, where there is always a little water. A barrier of this type does not allow unpleasant odors to pass through.

blockage. It often happens that the system is clogged, even if the installation was carried out according to all the necessary rules. For this reason, risers on all floors should be equipped with special fittings so that there is no need to disassemble the system until the plug is removed.
Freezing sewers. This is another problem that comes up frequently. The reason is that many simply lay sewers above the freezing level of the soil. It should be said that this problem should not be ignored due to the fact that sooner or later the pipe may simply burst and then it will need to be replaced and repaired.
Mismatch between different elements. To avoid such a situation, installation should begin with the installation of an outlet-node connecting the riser to the pipe, which is suitable for the septic tank. The outlet is a metal sleeve with pipe trim. Its diameter must be larger than the size of the riser pipes. Usually we are talking about the figure of 13-15 centimeters. And the sleeve should crawl out of the foundation by 12-16 centimeters.

To prevent the above and other problems from appearing, the following principles should be followed during the installation of such a system:

if the pipes are different diameter, then they must be joined using special adapters;
using oblique type tees, you can connect risers and pipes;
the toilet should be located as close as possible to the main riser;
installation of external sewerage should be carried out exclusively in the warm season;
as you approach the riser, the pipe size should become larger, not smaller;
where the kitchen and bathroom pipes intersect, a collector should be placed.

In order for the sewer mechanism in your own home to always work efficiently and efficiently, and also function well, experts recommend observing a few simple rules. The first thing to do is to carry out flushing of the pipeline of the external and internal type on an ongoing basis. large quantity hot water. The second tip is that in plumbing fixtures, especially in the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is required to use garbage nets to prevent hair, dirt, and various insoluble substances from entering the drain.

Another important recommendation of specialists is to pump out various sedimentary masses from the septic tank at the right time, otherwise they may cause a breakdown of the entire system. Another tip from the experts is to not allow waste grease to go down the drain. Especially when it comes to animal fats, which settle on the pipe walls and can cause clogging of the pipe.

When purchasing components and pipes, experts recommend checking whether a rubber lining is present in the socket, as it is constantly lost by many people. Under no circumstances should a vent pipe be connected to the ventilation mechanism. According to experts, when inserting PVC pipes into a ditch, it is necessary to carefully monitor the joints due to the fact that the connecting places are extremely fragile and unstable.

It is also recommended to install an emergency drain to clean the sewer. It is usually mounted as close as possible to the area where the pipe enters the building in an accessible place. In addition, if there is a usual set of water consumption points in the building, then it is completely optional to install a fan pipe, you can limit yourself to a vacuum-type valve.

In general, as you can see, the creation of a sewerage system in a private house is a process that requires serious calculations and a lot of attention from the owner of the house. Moreover, the creation of such a system involves thinking through the water supply system at home. In addition, much will depend on what type of sewerage will be created. Pressure sewage will have its own characteristics, and external or internal - their own. In any case, for the competent implementation of such an undertaking, it is important to think through everything to the smallest detail and consult with experts.