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How to start laying siding step by step instructions. How to properly install or install siding technology

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The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the sheathing of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels made of different materials with lock and hem. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, imitate the structure of wood or stone, so it will fit perfectly into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and lay it according to all the rules.

Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wood, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum). All types of finishes differ in cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.

	Type of siding	Flaws
	It can reproduce any texture, looks effective, has a wide range of colors. Sheathing from this type of siding is resistant to negative factors (it can be operated at temperatures from -50 to +50), it is light in weight and affordable	At high humidity and a sharp temperature drop, it can be deformed, is afraid of mechanical damage, and has a relatively short service life.
	Sun fade resistance and high temperatures(up to +85 degrees), excellent strength characteristics, resistance to chemicals, does not ignite	High price
	The material is strong and durable, resistant to temperature extremes, does not contribute to the reproduction of fungal spores and harmful microorganisms	Low sound insulation, the possibility of delamination of the coating from the metal base in the places of the cut. Aluminum siding is subject to mechanical damage, after which it is no longer possible to restore its original appearance.
	High environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, a variety of textures and patterns on the cut	Insufficient strength, fragility, ability to ignite and deform, difficult to maintain, high cost
	The material can replace a natural stone, as it is made from cement, water, sand and cellulose. Resistant to weathering, not subject to corrosion, rot, does not contribute to the development of fungus and mold, easy to operate	High price, difficulty in buying (practically not common in Russia)

If it's about color solutions, then the most common are pastel materials - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the addition of expensive components that prevent the finish from fading in the sun).

Vinyl material should be mentioned separately, as it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for finishing the facade of any building. It is made of PVC panels and is presented in a large assortment in any specialized store or on the construction market. In addition, vinyl panels are quite easy to install, so all the work can be done independently.

Siding prices

Varieties and elements of siding

In order not to make a mistake when choosing and installing siding, you need to understand the varieties and additional elements of the material. Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, siding is divided into several types.

Horizontal and vertical siding

Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to the domestic consumer, since in Russia horizontal panels are more often used for finishing buildings.

To choose the right type of material, you should consider some design differences between horizontal and vertical siding.

Different geometry and configuration of elements. Theoretically, vertical siding can be mounted horizontally, but without the appropriate experience and knowledge, it is quite difficult to do this - as a result, installation may be incorrect, which will lead to water leakage and other troubles.
No additional perforation. There are perforations at the bottom of the horizontal panels, while the vertical ones do not.

Otherwise, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, since they are made from the same material, and also require certain rules to be followed during installation.

Wall panels

This type of material is intended for facing vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:

The main difference between a ship board and a Christmas tree is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, with the first type being the most common in Europe and Russia, and the second in the USA and Canada. Siding types are marked with Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). After the letter designation comes a number that indicates the width of the panel - for example, the marking S 4.5 indicates a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).

Block house prices

Block house

Plinth siding is a material used to cover the underside of a building. They are twice as thick as conventional cladding panels, due to which they are distinguished by increased strength, are not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the mass of the panels is very small, that is, for their installation it is not necessary to further strengthen the foundation.

Soffit

Soffit is essentially a ceiling siding that is used to cover the protruding part of the roof and finish ceilings in attics and attics. Such panels not only give the building a perfect and finished look, but also protect the space under the roof from precipitation, insects, etc. Structurally, they are divided into two- and three-lane, and in addition, they are perforated, mixed and non-perforated.

Soffit prices

Additional elements

In order for siding to look attractive, it is necessary to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.

These add-on elements include:

the starting profile is used to install the first row of panels, from which the installation work begins;
finishing profile for row fastenings under the roof;
the outer corner and the inner corner close the edges of the facing panels laid on the outer and inner corners of the building;
J-bevel is used for facing the top of the facade and gives it a finished appearance;
The J-profile is an auxiliary accessory used in conjunction with the J-bevel;
H-profile connects the panels in the middle of the wall, closes their edges and is used to implement all kinds of design solutions;
molding is a cross between a finish and a J-profile, and is necessary for attaching vertical skin at the transition points to spotlights;
near-window profile is used for facing window and door openings;
ebb acts as a drainage cornice;
cash is needed for decorative finishes door and window openings;
the slope is an auxiliary profile used in combination with platbands;
the edging profile provides cover for joints and joints between panels, and can also replace the start profile or vertical panels.

It should be noted that all of the above accessories for siding panels may differ in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of an individual manufacturer, but also for each line of facing material.

Installation of siding panels is a fairly simple, but painstaking and time-consuming task that requires not only accuracy and accuracy, but also strict adherence to installation rules.

General rules

The technology and sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the characteristics of the material and surface, but there are several general points that should be remembered when performing work.

Siding can be installed in three ways: on an aluminum surface, directly on the facade and on the crate. The first method has one serious drawback - a high price, and it is possible to mount siding directly on the walls of a building only in cases where they are made of wood and have enough flat surface. The easiest way to install panels is to pre-clad the facade with a crate, which will not only make the cladding smooth and neat, but also speed up the work.
In the case of log buildings, all cladding work is carried out only when the structure has completely shrunk.
Vinyl panels are recommended to be fixed exclusively to factory holes - the material should not be punched, as this may adversely affect its service life.
Wooden elements are fastened with galvanized hardware, otherwise the tree will quickly begin to rot.
It is better for beginners to start installation from the back of the facade, so that by the time they move to the front, the person has already developed certain experience and skills.
Installation of siding panels is carried out from the rear corner with an overlap in rows from top to bottom, which makes the joints between them less noticeable.
When performing work, it is necessary to control the evenness of every third installed row, otherwise all the others will also be skewed.
A very important point is that under the influence of temperature, the panels can expand and contract - if the fixing force is incorrectly calculated, the panels can subsequently deform.
Fasteners are hammered exclusively into the center of the factory hole. If this is not possible, carefully widen the hole with a perforator (do not drive nails into the end of the hole, otherwise the panel may be seriously damaged).
Siding elements do not need to be nailed tightly - they should move slightly from side to side.
Mistake 2. Installers screw the screws all the way into the perforation, this cannot be done
When attaching the panel to the frame, there is no need to push it up or down: the force is applied from the bottom up until the connection of the upper element snaps into the lock of the lower one.
At the joints of the facing panels with additional elements, a gap of 6-12 mm thick should be left. If work is carried out at low temperatures, the gap width should be at least 10-12 mm.
Fasteners should be driven in as evenly and straight as possible so that the panels do not deform or warp.
If a crack appears on the panel, it is better to replace it with another one, as the crack will expand over time.

The process of installing siding panels consists of several stages, and they must be performed in a certain sequence - only in this case the result will fully meet expectations.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Step by step instructions for installing siding

Installation of siding begins with the calculation of the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be divided into simple geometric figures, measure their areas and summarize the resulting figures. In addition, it is necessary to make detailed diagram building cladding, which will indicate all the necessary profiles and accessories, as well as their location. It should be remembered that approximately 10% of the total volume of material will go to fitting and trimming, and if the work is done for the first time, some elements may be damaged.

After buying siding, you can proceed to the main stages of work, and the first of them is the preparation of improvised tools and materials.

Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials

Siding panels for installation and materials for the manufacture of battens must be absolutely intact, without cracks, chips or flaws. If the work is to be carried out in winter time, the siding should be allowed to "lie down" on the street at a temperature not lower than 15 degrees.

In addition, it will be necessary to prepare fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails, staples), which will enter the material by at least 20 mm, and a number of tools necessary for facing the building.

Electric saw. To speed up the cutting of siding, it is best to use an electric saw (hand or stationary), and the blade should be set to reverse (when working with wood, the tool is used as usual). If the installation is carried out in a cold season, you need to move the blade as slowly as possible.
Scissors for cutting metal. Polyvinyl chloride and other materials from which siding panels are made (especially polyvinyl chloride) are quite simple to process, and with the help of such a tool you can easily give the panels the desired shape.
Perforator. Required for drilling holes for fasteners.
Punch. It is used for punching holes (so-called hooks) on the sides of panels when installing siding in under a roof or under openings.
Siding removal tool. It happens that when working with panels it is necessary to dismantle one or more of them, so it is better to get the right tool in advance, something like a hook.

In addition to all of the above, to perform the work, you should prepare a hammer, a jigsaw, a level, a tape measure and a piece of chalk, and it is better to protect your eyes with special glasses.

Stage two. Surface preparation

High-quality wall preparation is a guarantee that the siding sheathing will look neat and attractive. It is best to mount the panels on top of the waterproofing material (it is not necessary to lay waterproofing, but experts recommend protecting all places where the siding will come into contact with building walls and openings). Before starting work, it is necessary to dismantle the old finish from the surface, as well as all elements that may interfere with installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and clean the surface of the walls from dirt and dust.

Stage three. Manufacturing of crates

Before installing the battens, you should check the reliability of all elements of the building: for example, replace all loose and broken boards. To build a frame for siding, dry and straight bars of appropriate sizes (usually 4x6 cm) are taken without signs of rot, stains or deformations, and they should be pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants (substances that prevent fire). A more reliable, but rather expensive solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.

If horizontal siding is used for cladding, frame guides are mounted vertically, and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional rails are installed around door and window openings, at the bottom and top of the façade, as well as where additional accessories (for example, lanterns) will hang.

All parts must be mounted evenly, from time to time checking their level. You can fasten the elements of the crate in any way, but the best option are ordinary nails. If the frame is attached to concrete or brick, holes should be made in the walls with a perforator. Locations where siding will come into contact with building materials should be properly sealed to protect them from moisture and frost.

Stage four. Panel mounting

The most important stage of building cladding is the installation of panels on the crate. It should be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, in compliance with the rules listed above. The actual algorithm for mounting siding panels is as follows.

Step 1. Determine the point from which the installation will begin. To do this, find a point in the lower frame guide, step back 50 mm from it, put a mark and slightly screw in the self-tapping screw. Consistently move along the perimeter of the building, continuing to mark and screw in the screws. They also need to be screwed into the corners of the building.

Step 2 Stretch the twine between the corner marks, mark on the laths of the lathing the places where the corner profiles will be installed (it is from them that the installation begins). Attach a profile to the corner of the frame and put marks along the edges with chalk, then attach it to the crate. The rest of the corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened in the same way, and the fastening must begin from the top hole, from top to bottom.

Step 3 After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to the installation of accessories on window and door openings: platbands, ebbs and finishing plates.

Step 4 Moving along the perimeter of the rope, make a 6 mm indent from the edge of the corner profile and attach the start profile, and then the first start panel. If it is attached correctly, the rest of the siding will also lie as it should. Be sure to leave a centimeter gap between the elements to compensate for the possible temperature deformation of the vinyl. The panels should not be fastened too tightly - there should be a gap of at least 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the surface of the material. Also, do not pull the panel up, otherwise it may crack or deform.

Step 5 After attaching the accessories, the installation of the facing panels is carried out, which is carried out from the bottom to the top, starting from the starting ones. The panel is inserted into the first in a row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they need to be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. According to the height of the panels, they should be installed on top of each other: the lower lock of the higher element enters the lock connection of the lower one. Panels can be assembled into sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on design solution. If the panel closes the opening of a window or door, it is necessary to cut off the excess piece so that it fits between the casing or other accessory.

Step 6 The last top row is installed only after the finish line. It is necessary to nail close to the roof, measure the distance between it bottom and the lock of the panel of the penultimate row. Subtract 1-2 mm from the received figures for the gap. Take the whole panel, mark it so that it fits between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut off the upper part along with the lock.

Step 7 On the top of the prepared panel, create so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small cuts and bend them to the front side. Insert the cut piece into bottom panel and with a slight movement snap it into the locking connection.

In the photo - installation of the finishing bar

Step 8 The final step is facing the gables of the roof. The work is carried out as follows: the J-profile is fastened along the corner of the gable (if more than one element is required, the second must be fastened with an overlap of 2 cm).

Step 9 Measure the angle of the roof and cut the siding accordingly. Most likely, last panel will have to be nailed with a fastener. This is the only case when it is allowed to drive a nail or screw a self-tapping screw right through the panel.

On this, the installation of siding panels can be considered complete. If everything was done as it should be, the result of the work will be an aesthetic, reliable and durable cladding.

It should be noted that vertical siding is mounted in a similar way. The only difference is that the crate for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.

Removing damaged panels

If the panel has been damaged and a new one needs to be put in its place, the work is carried out as follows.

Insert a dismantling hook between two panels: the damaged one and the one above.
Pry the lock and pull the tool down along the edge to release the damaged panel.
Pull out the fasteners with a nail puller - if they sit too tight, you can simply hammer them into the frame elements.
Remove the panel, put a new one in its place and secure with hardware.
Using the same hook, slide the top panel onto the lock when laid down, and snap it into place.

Siding panel care

Siding panel cladding is much easier to maintain than other cladding. It needs to be flushed out of the hose from time to time, and to remove old stains use a soft brush or cloth. To avoid damaging the material, do not use abrasive household products and hard hand tools. Also, do not clean siding with chlorine bleaches, organic solvents, products that contain acetone, or are used to polish furniture. Contaminants from its surface are well removed with a solution of water with washing powder, as well as any cleaners on water based. If you need to remove chewing gum from the panel, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.

Installation of metal siding under a log: step-by-step instruction Siding accessories

How to make a crate for siding with your own hands

Building facades with siding can be done by the homeowner himself if he follows the appropriate instructions explaining how to properly mount the siding.

Calculation of siding and fittings

Calculation of siding for a house - a good example

To make it more convenient to conduct, it is necessary to mentally divide the surface of the house into the simplest elements: triangles and rectangles. Now we do the following:

For each rectangle, measure the width (height) and length in meters. We multiply the resulting numbers and get the surface area of \u200b\u200bthis section of the surface of the house
For triangles, you need to measure the length of the base and height. Multiply the values, and then divide the result by two - according to this formula, the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangle is calculated
Add up the calculated areas of all the areas into which you divided the surface of the building
Calculate the total area of openings (doors and windows) and subtract it from the total surface area of your home
Increase the resulting figure by 10% (just multiply it by 1.1). As a result of such simple manipulations, you have calculated the required amount of siding, taking into account the cost of trimming and fitting.
To convert square meters to packages, divide the total area of the siding by 0.98 (the area of one standard sheet) and by the number of sheets in a pack (10 pcs.)

accessories

The length of the starting and finishing strips is equal to the perimeter of the building plus 10% for trimming and fitting. The rest of the fittings are calculated according to the detailed plan of the house. This calculation can be entrusted to specialists performing facade cladding work.

Preparing for installation

Facade cladding with siding attracts homeowners with ease of installation and high speed of work. But these statements are true only if the work is properly organized: all the material has been purchased, the tools have been prepared.

But that's not all: how to fix basement siding on high? Mounting siding from the stairs is definitely inconvenient (if not impossible). So in preparatory work scaffolding will have to be turned on. They can be built from wooden beams section 150x59 mm. For less critical parts, a 100x50 mm beam will go. The flooring is made from boards. Its thickness is from 25 to 40 mm.

Still need to organize a place for cutting blanks. It is most convenient to cut the siding on the table.

Tool

To perform siding work, you will need:

Saw - manual or electric (radial or easel) and panels with a fine tooth to it
Hacksaw with fine teeth
Square and tape measure
Sheet metal shears
Nail puller and hammer
Awl, knife and screwdriver
Punch for punching "lugs" along the edge of the siding for its fastening under windows and in the upper zone of the wall
Perforator
Level
Protective glasses

Now we will analyze what screws to fix the siding with.

To fix the siding, stock up on roofing steel nails. They can be replaced with aluminum heads with a diameter of 9.5 mm. The diameter of the nail rod must be at least 3 mm, and its length must be equal to the thickness of the entire sheathing cake plus at least 20 mm to enter the base (bearing wall).

Preparing the wall surface for cladding

Dismantle the gutters lighting and other elements that may interfere with the proper installation of siding
Remove old window sills
Remove old putty from around window frames, sills, and other surfaces.
Prepare the walls especially carefully, if the house is old, all rotten wood must be removed, weakly fixed elements should be nailed
In many private courtyards, bushes grow close to the house, and tree branches knock on the window. Of course, they will interfere with installation facade decoration. But do not rush to take up the ax: take better pieces of rope and tie the unruly branches. In this way, you will expand the space for work and do not damage green spaces.

Find out more about decorating the front of your home. The plinth, or the face of your home, requires special attention. Learn more and the result will meet your expectations.

Still choose siding for the facade? - Types of siding for house cladding are presented in detail. Here you will definitely find perfect solution for your home.

crate

For the device of the crate, a wooden rail with a section of 40x60 mm is suitable. They are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. The rail can be replaced with a galvanized profile. The step of the crate is from 30 to 40 cm. If the house is located in a strong wind zone, the step is reduced to 20 cm.

Around the openings of windows and doors, in places where lamps are installed and other elements are suspended, at all corners of the building, an additional crate is arranged along the top and bottom of the sheathing. The rail is located vertically, horizontal struts are not placed - they will lead to a clear deterioration in the ventilation of the under-siding space.

Wall insulation

Traditionally, insulation is placed under the siding. In this case, the thickness of the lath of the crate should exceed the thickness of the insulation by 15 - 20 mm. Due to this difference, a guaranteed gap between the siding and the heat-insulating layer will be provided. After installing the insulation on the crate, the waterproofing layer is strengthened, and only after that they begin to install the siding.

Setting the starting strip

Chalk mark the bottom level of the siding installation. It should be 75 - 80 mm from the level of the blind area. Now set the start profile to the chalk markings with the top edge and nail it. Between the profile sections and the corner (internal or external) a gap of 6 mm must be observed, designed to compensate for the expansion of the siding.

Hardware fixing

The general concept of "fittings" combines into a group a variety of elements designed for the convenience of attaching the siding to the wall. This group includes near-window strips, spotlights, moldings, external and internal corners, etc. All of them are attached in a certain way, specified by the manufacturer's instructions.

Installation of external corners

External corners are mounted on the corners of the house. The lower edge of the first element is set 6 mm below the starting strip. A gap of 6 mm is also left between the eaves and the upper edge of the last corner. If you subsequently plan to hem the cornice overhang with a soffit, increase this gap by its thickness.

Installation of J-bars around openings (doors and windows)

Photo of fastening the J-bar around the window

For joining wall cladding with door and window openings, a J-bar is installed around them. To do this, in the bottom of the bar, located horizontally above the opening, an eyelet is cut out and lowered down. Then the bent front of the bar is cut at an angle of 45 degrees. At the vertical strips, a rectangular cutout is cut out in the bottom (its depth is 20 mm). After that, all the frame elements are connected at the junction.

Siding installation

Visual instruction: how to fix siding correctly

Installation of siding panels is carried out in the direction from the bottom up. You need to start working from the rear facade of the house towards the main one, then the overlaps will not spoil the front view.

Connection points must be displaced relative to each other. The minimum distance between the joints is 100 cm in the horizontal direction and at least two rows in the vertical direction. The overlap of the horizontal panels is 225 mm. Excessive overlapping of the panels restricts movement and damages them.

[сaution] It takes about a week for an area of 112 square meters. Preparatory work (with the installation of insulation and installation of the crate) takes about 4 days. Siding can be mounted in three days of full-fledged work.

Video how to fix siding

Pneumatic tools adapted for siding fastening significantly speed up the installation process. The video shows in detail how to fix vinyl siding quickly and easily.

In a private house there is always something to repair, for this reason, it is better to have your own tool. If there is no tool, then it can be bought before the house is finished with siding. Believe me, it will not gather dust idle, after the laying of the siding with your own hands is over. So, to carry out the work you will need to purchase:

A screwdriver is the main tool, which is simply impossible to do without, because it is with the help of it that most of the work is carried out. For example, self-tapping screws for fastening metal suspensions are twisted, profiles and the siding panels themselves are fastened;
The building level is necessary for leveling the elements of the frame and siding panels. You can use both a regular building level and a more expensive one - a laser one;

Tip: when working with metal frame siding, it is convenient to use the usual building level, which is additionally equipped with magnets. With the help of magnets, the level can be set on the profile and not held, this greatly facilitates the work on leveling the subsystem.

Hammer drill or hammer drill. The tool is necessary if it is planned to finish the siding of a house whose walls are made of brick or concrete. Additionally, you will need to have a drill or drill, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the dowels used;
Metal scissors. The tool is simply necessary, because when assembling the frame, it will be necessary to cut the metal profile, and it is impossible to do this without scissors;
Roulette. For work on the installation of siding, it is convenient to use a tape measure with a magnetic tip;
UShM (Bulgarian). It is convenient to use for trimming a metal profile, as well as siding, regardless of what material it is made of;
Construction stapler and staples, for mounting vapor barrier material;
Stationery or any other sharp knife, for cutting insulation and vapor barrier;
Stepladder or ladder, for access to the upper part of the facade;
You will also need an axe, hammer and nail puller. Finishing the house on your own, there is always something to pull out, knock and cut.

Tip: to facilitate installation in the upper part of the facade, special scaffolding. If the height of the house is more than one floor, such scaffolding can grow, thereby providing access to the highest point.

Work algorithm

Next, let's move on to learning how to install metal siding with your own hands. The instruction for dummies includes the following sequence, according to which the house is sheathed with siding with one's own hands:

Calculation of the required amount of materials;
Preparatory work;
Installation of vapor barrier;
Installation of a heater;
Marking for the subsequent installation of the frame;
Subsystem installation;
Siding installation;
Installation of additional elements.

Material calculation

To carry out work on the installation of siding panels, it is necessary to calculate in advance the required amount of materials. To do this, it is necessary to measure the length and height of all walls that need finishing, and then calculate their area.

Tip: to calculate the required amount of materials, only the net area of \u200b\u200bthe walls is used. To determine it, from the draft area, it is necessary to subtract the total area of all windows.

To determine the required amount of metal profile in running meters, you need to multiply the net area of \u200b\u200bthe walls by a factor of 2.2. The resulting result can be divided by 3, thus, find out the number of profiles in pieces.

To install each profile, six metal hangers are required, so by multiplying the number of profiles by six, you can find out the exact number of hangers.

It is not difficult to calculate the required number of screws or dowel nails for attaching suspensions. They will need two per suspension, respectively, you need to multiply the number of suspensions by 2 and get the required number.

heater for sale cubic meters, respectively, multiplying the net area of \u200b\u200bthe walls for finishing with siding by the thickness of the insulation, you can find out the amount of material that will be needed for the work.

The siding itself for finishing the house is calculated quite simply, since you can calculate the area of \u200b\u200bone siding panel, then divide the net area by the area of one panel and find out the required amount.

Self-tapping screws for assembling the frame and fastening the panels are calculated based on the net area that needs to be finished. For each square meter area, you will need 50 screws.

After everything has been done and the material has been purchased, you can begin the installation of metal siding with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions advise starting work from the preparatory stage.

Preparatory work

Tip: If the work is carried out in a new house that does not yet have window trim, at the preparatory stage, you can check the integrity of the window sealing material and, if necessary, foam the defective areas with mounting foam.

The preparatory stage includes the following works:

Dismantling of ebbs and slopes of windows;
Removal of drain pipes and their fastenings;
If there are lighting devices on the walls, they also need to be dismantled, and after the work on sheathing the house with siding, the lights will be mounted back on the wall. Work on the removal and transfer of lighting lamps must be carried out in compliance with safety regulations. Most the best option is to entrust such work to a professional electrician;
Inspection of walls for defects and their elimination. Repair cracks with foam, if the house is wooden, you can treat them with an antiseptic solution, which will prevent corrosion of the material and additionally protect against the negative effects of moisture.

Installation of vapor barrier and insulation

After carrying out the preparatory work, before assembling the frame, it is necessary to mount the vapor barrier and insulation.

Important: in the event that polyurethane foam is used for insulation, then a vapor barrier is not required to be installed and you can immediately start marking and installing suspensions. Facade insulation work can be carried out both after the frame is installed and before it is assembled, and after the frame has already been assembled.

The vapor barrier is fixed vertically with an overlap of 10–15 cm. If the walls of the house are wooden, then the work is carried out using a construction stapler, otherwise additional dowels will be needed for fastening, with washers placed under the screw cap.

After the installation of the vapor barrier, the thermal insulation is laid and fixed with dowels for insulating materials. At this stage, there is no need to fix the thermal insulation on a large number of dowels, since in the future it will be securely fixed with the help of suspensions for a metal profile installed on top of it.

markup

When marking, it is necessary to remember the basic rules for mounting the frame, adhering to them, it will not work to make mistakes when installing the frame. The basic rules for installing a subsystem include the following mandatory requirements:

The frame should be installed in such a way that the distance between the nearest profiles does not exceed sixty centimeters;
At the corners of the walls, at a distance of no more than 10 cm from them, without fail, a profile must be installed;
If you plan to install vinyl or acrylic siding, then you need to make special corner jumpers, on which the corner bar will be attached in the future;
On all sides of windows and doors, profiles must be installed;
The step of the suspensions holding each of the profiles should be no more than sixty centimeters.

Frame assembly

Work on assembling the frame begins with the installation of extreme profiles. They must be fixed strictly vertically. Location control is carried out using a level. Further, between the extreme profiles, for the convenience of installing the remaining elements of the frame, you can stretch several rows of building laces. As a rule, three rows are made (at the very bottom, in the center and at the top).

After the frame is assembled, you can check the correctness of its installation using a metal rule or profile. To do this, you need to press the rule to the frame, while capturing at least three profiles. If the rule is tightly pressed against all three elements of the system, then the assembly was carried out correctly, otherwise, when a curvature is observed and the rule is not pressed tightly, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate the causes of this phenomenon.

Installation of metal siding panels

Metal siding, unlike plastic counterparts, has sufficient rigidity and can be installed without additional elements. For example, such as corner or near window trims.

To begin work on attaching the siding to the frame, it is necessary from the bottom and gradually rise up. To fasten the first strip of siding, you can use the starting strip, which must be aligned horizontally and rigidly fastened to the frame using psh-13 mm self-tapping screws.

If desired, you can do without the starting one, in which case the siding strip is immediately leveled and fastened. To prevent the lower part of the siding from hanging out, it is fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Important: when attaching metal siding without an additional starting strip, the lower row of screws holding the siding strip will be visible. In the event that this is unacceptable, it is necessary to use the starting strip for installation.

The length of one strip of siding is six meters. In the event that this is not enough to capture the entire width of the wall, a special connecting profile is used to connect the siding strips. It is installed strictly vertically, in the place where it is planned to join the siding panels. To install a connecting profile in a place where there is no frame element, you can make horizontal jumpers between two adjacent profiles. The distance between jumpers should not exceed 0.6 m.

After the first strip has been installed and checked, horizontal arrangement, you can set the next strip. To do this, the technological bend on it is installed in the groove of the already mounted strip, after which it is fixed in the upper part. The siding is fastened with PSh self-tapping screws, no more than 13 mm long.

Tip: if the preparatory work and installation of the frame can be carried out alone, then it is not so easy to cope with the installation of six-meter siding strips alone. It is much more convenient to carry out installation with an assistant.

Attaching plastic siding strips

Unlike metal siding, plastic version does not have sufficient rigidity and for this reason it must be installed in compliance with the manufacturer's recommendations and together with additional structural elements. Thus, the installation of plastic siding begins with the installation of corner, and, if necessary, connecting strips. All recommendations for the correct installation of siding can be found on the product packaging. But especially important points we'll take a look anyway. The first point is the need to observe gaps that compensate for the thermal linear expansion of the product. The gap must be at least 0.5 mm and not more than 1 cm.

The second point is that plastic siding, unlike metal, must be fixed in such a way that installed panel could be freely moved to the left or right, to the distance provided by the technological perforation. To achieve this result, when attaching plastic panels siding, fastening screws should be installed approximately in the middle of the perforation and not tightened to the end.

By following these simple rules installation, you can be sure of the quality of the final result.

Below you can watch a video description of how to install siding with your own hands, the video shows step by step the entire process of finishing the facade, in fact, this is an instruction for installing siding, with a step-by-step process reviewed in video format.

Conclusion

Above, we got acquainted with how the installation of siding is carried out with our own hands. The described step-by-step instructions are quite detailed, but still do not include all the necessary information. Installing siding is easy if you follow the instructions. The main thing when installing plastic siding is to observe the gaps and install the fixing screws in such a way that the siding panel can move freely to the distance provided by the fixing perforation.

The installation scheme of siding, depending on the material from which it is made, may differ. It is a little easier for a beginner to sheathe a house with metal siding than to study the installation manual for plastic siding and carry out the work in the required order and technical advice manufacturer of this material.

In the modern market of building and finishing materials, huge selection home cladding solutions. One of the leaders in this segment is vinyl siding. The material has many advantages, among which an important advantage is the ability to quickly self-attach panels to the surface to be lined.

Siding is made in the form of panels with a thickness of about 1 mm. The length and width are not standardized and may vary depending on the manufacturer, which is an added advantage - you can choose the size of the panels that best suits your situation.

Advantages

Among the main advantages of vinyl siding, the following provisions deserve special attention:

affordable cost;
ease of installation;
resistance to adverse influences. The panels endure exposure to sunlight and various atmospheric precipitation;
long service life. With proper installation and proper care, high-quality vinyl siding does not lose its visual appeal and original performance properties for 50 years or even more;
no need for pre-treatment. Vinyl siding will not rot or rust;
large selection of colors and textures. Both simple colored panels and vinyl siding are available for sale, successfully imitating wood, natural stone and other materials, which makes it possible to translate the most daring design ideas into reality;
the ability to perform cladding in any weather;
no need to use difficult-to-handle and hard-to-reach tools for cutting and fixing panels.

Flaws

Like any other existing finishing material Vinyl siding has certain disadvantages, among which it is necessary to consider the following provisions:

low resistance to mechanical stress. Impacts, excessive pressure and other similar impacts vinyl panels do not tolerate. However, if necessary, damaged elements can be easily replaced with new ones;
requirement for installation. Although the panels are very easy to attach, the installer needs to follow a series of important rules about fixing panels, sealing gaps, etc.

Surface preparation

Before installing vinyl siding, you do not have to perform any super-complicated preparatory operations.

First of all, fix any existing defects. Get rid of mold, rot and other damage.

In the presence of facade plaster, either completely remove it, or additionally fix it. Get rid of the old cladding (panels, tiles, stone, etc.).

Lathing and insulation installation

Proceed to the installation of the crate. If you decide to mount the siding horizontally, fix the crate vertically, and vice versa.

Traditionally, the crate is assembled from wooden bars with a section of 5x5 cm. If the house is built of brick or concrete blocks, you can assemble the crate from a metal profile - as you prefer.

Choose the step of placing the battens of the crate individually according to the width of the insulation boards. If the walls are insulated, the crate will have to be doubled. The first under a heater, the second directly under a siding. Place the bottom crate perpendicular to the top.

First step. Place the battens of the crate in accordance with the recommendations received earlier. To fix the elements, use self-tapping screws or other convenient fasteners.

Second step. Cover the crate with a vapor barrier membrane film. To fix the film, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.

Third step. Lay the insulation in the cells of the crate. Mineral wool insulation is perfect.

Fourth step. Cover the insulation with a waterproofing film. To fix the film to the crate, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.

Fifth step. Stuff the insulation boards with perpendicular vinyl siding boards.

To assemble the crates for siding, use bars or a metal profile - as you prefer. In most cases, working with a bar is easier and faster.

In the case of using wood, pre-treat it with a high-quality antiseptic. Additionally, it is recommended to treat all wooden elements with a flame retardant.

The wooden beam must be dry. Otherwise, the wood is deformed during the drying process and the crate, as well as the finish fixed to it, will lead. The metal profile is devoid of these shortcomings, so professionals most often prefer the metal crate.

Additionally fasten profiles around all openings.

Siding Installation Guide

Self-installation of vinyl siding is carried out in a few simple steps. Work according to the manual and everything will definitely work out.

The first step is to determine the starting point

Inspect the building before finishing work. Think about where you will start attaching the panels. If the house already had a cladding, you can mount a new coating in accordance with the features of the placement of the previous finish. In the case of new buildings, the starting row of panels must be fixed so that they overlap the top edge. concrete base at home.

Draw a straight marking line for mounting the starting horizontal row of panels. A plumb line and a marker will help you with this.

The second step is the installation of accessories

In the process of decorating your home with vinyl siding, you will need to install a variety of additional accessories such as trim elements, corner panels, starter strip, etc. Professionals recommend starting Finishing work with mounting accessories.

Set up the corner pieces first. There should be a small gap of about 5-6 mm between the top of the corner of the building and the cornice.

The third step - fixing the starting strip

It is very important to place the starting strip perfectly evenly - the quality of installation of all subsequent panels directly depends on this. Previously, you applied a horizontal marking line to the walls of the house. Set aside up from this line a distance equal to the width of the starting bar and draw a second straight line.

Attach the starter strip to the wall with self-tapping screws or nails. The siding panels have factory mounting holes. Drive the fasteners into these holes. Leave a gap of about 1-1.5 cm between adjacent panels.

Fourth step - insulation of window and door openings

Prepare panels for finishing openings - planks, ebbs, cashing elements, overlays. The stripes near the doors and windows of the strip should be joined at 45 degrees - it's more beautiful.

Fifth step - installation of facing panels

After completing the installation of all accessories, proceed to fixing the main panels. Finish finishing, starting from the starting strip, gradually moving in the direction from the bottom up.

Insert the siding panel into the starter strip. You can easily do this, because. panels initially have factory docking fasteners. Do not insert the panel "tightly" - it should be able to move slightly with temperature changes.

Line all the planned sections of the walls in the same way. Fasten the panels with nails or self-tapping screws every 40-45 cm. Leave a gap of 0.5-1 cm at the joints of individual panels.

Fasten panels around openings and pipes last. You can buy special cladding elements for difficult areas, or you can make the appropriate holes yourself.

Sixth step - installing the top wall edge

At the end, you will have to finish the upper wall edges. Be as careful as possible about this stage work. At the top of the walls, the profiles should be placed as you did when facing the space around the openings.

Under the roof, only whole siding strips can be used. Planks can only be cut for placement on gables.

For laying the last row, use a finishing strip or a special J-profile.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in self-attaching vinyl siding. Now you know the main stages and provisions of the technology for performing this cladding. To make the work as easy as possible, and the finished result to be of the highest quality, check out additional important tips.

Vinyl siding installation technology has important nuances, namely:

Follow the instructions given, don't forget the important tips, and you'll be able to clad your home with vinyl siding just as well as a professional repairman would.