MDF panels, application, choose the right MDF panels, installation and fastening methods, useful tips. Installing MDF panels on walls: do-it-yourself installation and lathing MDF wall panels installation

The decoration of any room should be carefully thought out. Design must be not only beautiful, but also functional. For example, MDF panels can subsequently be washed, they will not quickly become dirty and age. In addition, this material has additional advantages.

Finishing for which MDF is used can be ideal. Do-it-yourself installation is quite simple. Special knowledge is not required here. So even a non-professional can do the job.

What is MDF?

For the manufacture of which very small chips are used. For production it is necessary high pressure and temperature. In order for the chips to stick together into one mixture, carbamide resins are added to it, which are considered a link.

Wall panels MDF (even an amateur can do it with his own hands) are used for sheathing vertical surfaces in residential and office premises. Other types of material can be used for making furniture, arranging partitions, laying floor covering. Very often acoustic systems are made from plates. The thickness of the material reaches 4 mm. There are some conditions for storing these products: humidity - no more than 70%, temperature - no higher than 25 degrees.

Material Advantages

Sheathing with MDF panels has some advantages:

1. High level of moisture resistance. Some types of materials can even be used for bathroom decoration.

2. Good durability. The boards are well pressed.

3. Low cost. You can buy them at any hardware store at an affordable price.

4. Resistance to temperature changes, biological effects. Mice will not be able to gnaw through such a skin.

5.Ease of processing and use. You can cut the material with a regular jigsaw or circular saw.

6. Good soundproof qualities.

7. Products retain heat well and also they can be painted, laminated, varnished.

8. Ability to create an original design.

9. Easy panel cleaning.

MDF wall panels, do-it-yourself installation of which is done only after assembly necessary tools are made of natural material, so they are environmentally friendly.

Product Disadvantages

Among the disadvantages of this material are the following:

Amenable to combustion.

Quite a large mass. This feature does not allow the use of shields for all walls.

The presence of synthetic resins in the composition of the product. Although they do not evaporate and are not harmful to health.

These shortcomings are not significant in the correct operation of the material.

What types of plate fixings are there?

Before that, you need to understand the connection methods. They are like this:

  • Tenon groove. This is the simplest type of locking elements. Laying is done end to end. A feature of this installation is the need for a base made of metal profiles or a wooden crate.
  • Groove-groove. This also requires special training. The wall will need to be reinforced with U-shaped profiles.
  • Glue. This method is used quite often. However, the panel should be light in weight, and the wall should be perfectly flat. It requires a special adhesive to work. Naturally, during the installation process, dust and dirt await you. But if you have a small room at your disposal and the availability of free centimeters is fundamental, then it is better to choose this particular method.
  • profile. It allows you to level the base and attach large-format products.

What tools are needed for the job?

If you purchased MDF wall panels, do-it-yourself installation should be done only after the entire necessary material and the fixtures will be ready. You will need:

  1. Building level.
  2. Reiki for the construction of the crate.
  3. Locksmith's square for the correct determination of the angle.
  4. Plumb.
  5. Drill, as well as a special nozzle for tightening self-tapping screws.
  6. Hammer and pliers.
  7. for cutting panels.
  8. Special fasteners.
  9. Screw, self-tapping screw in the required quantity.

These tools should be enough to install the panels. Surface preparation may require other tools.

Varieties and features of panels

In order for the finish to serve for a long time and with high quality, it is necessary to choose the right facing material. There are such types of panels:

  • Ordinary. They have high strength, but do not have special protection against moisture. Therefore, such products can be used for wall cladding in dry rooms: hallways, living rooms, bedrooms.
  • For rooms with a high level of humidity. Such MDF panels for the kitchen are suitable. It is in this room that moisture often accumulates and there are temperature drops.
  • Heavily loaded. They can be mounted in bathrooms, as they have the most high level protection from the damaging effects of moisture.

Naturally, it should not be overlooked decorative properties MDF boards. Thanks to different patterns and colors, you can work wonders. For example, in order to make a room visually larger, use light or white panels. To get an original and unique interior, you should pay attention to the material with an individual design pattern.

Naturally, when choosing, you should pay attention to specifications and quality. Buy material only from licensed stores. It is better to choose those manufacturers who have a good reputation and customer reviews.

Features of surface preparation

Before that, it is necessary to prepare the base. In principle, this is not difficult to do. First, remove the previous finish or its fragile parts. If the basis for fixing the plates is a wooden crate, then it will not be necessary to level the wall. It should be pre-marked.

The adhesive method requires a perfectly flat surface. If the defects or level differences are small, then you can use a regular plaster mortar. Naturally, the walls will then need to be primed in order to maximize adhesion with glue.

Most often, a wooden crate is still used. Making it is easy. Rails are installed vertically and horizontally. The distance between them should not exceed 30-40 cm. A screw, self-tapping screw or nail is usually used to fasten the rails. Please note that all wooden elements should be treated with a special antiseptic.

If metal profiles are used for the crate, then the space that remains between them can be filled with mineral wool or other insulation. In addition to keeping warm, you can provide additional sound insulation.

Mounting Features

Interior decoration with MDF panels has a certain sequence:

  1. Fixing the first panel. It is screwed at the inner corner with self-tapping screws. If necessary, cut the slab to length. Since each panel has a comb, it will have to be grinded down a bit. For additional fixation, metal fasteners are used.
  2. The next strips need to be screwed back to back with the previous ones. From the side of the side groove, the product is fixed with additional fasteners.
  3. Installation of the last panel. If necessary, it is cut to length. This element is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws.
  4. Next, you need to repeat the above steps for each wall. After completing the work along the upper edge, a narrow baseboard should be installed. It is fastened with nails or screws.

As you can see, you can do this job yourself.

MDF panels are in very high demand. However, improperly mounted material can degrade the interior of the room. Therefore, try to follow the recommendations of experts.

For example, when laying slabs, always use a plumb line and this will help you attach the products evenly.

You can sew up with such material the entire wall or part of it. For example, you can only mount panels half the height of the base. This will make it possible to use additional finishing materials, as well as diversify the interior.

If there are small irregularities on the wall, then small pieces of plastic can be placed under the wooden slats. They will strengthen the crate. That's all. Let your home be beautiful and unusual. Good luck!

Using MDF panels is the easiest way to finish the walls of a room, especially if you need an additional layer of thermal insulation. At the same time, it is quite possible to do the installation of MDF panels with your own hands in a very short period of time.

To install panels you will need:

  • tape measure and pencil - with their help you will mark the places for fixing the bars of the crate and the required length of the panels;
  • metal corner and level - to check the evenness of the corners, horizontality and verticality of the mounted elements;
  • jigsaw - for cutting panels to the desired length or width;
  • a construction stapler or nails with a hammer - to fix the panels on the crate;
  • drill and self-tapping screws (dowel-nails) - for attaching the lathing bars to the wall;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver.

Surface preparation

One of the main advantages of MDF panels is that there is no need to completely level the surface to which you are going to attach them. In this case, it does not matter at all whether the wall was pre-painted or not, and what material it is made of (brick, concrete, blocks, wood). It is enough just to cover the plastered or wooden surface (2 times) with a primer (or a special compound for protecting wood), and then either fix the crate for mounting MDF panels right away, or first fix a layer of thin thermal insulation on the wall (using liquid nails glue). (such as folgoizol).

Ceiling

If desired, MDF panels can be easily mounted on the ceiling. In this case, it is better to follow the rule that the MDF panels should be perpendicular to the wall with the window. The principle of mounting MDF panels to the ceiling and walls is the same, with one small exception: for ceiling cladding, you will most likely need an assistant to support the panel and feed the tool.

Mounting technology

The process of mounting MDF panels with your own hands implies that you will mount them on a wooden crate, which is bars of any section fixed with a certain step (in the direction perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels). In this case, the size of the bar (its width and thickness) does not matter much (that is, any of the same thickness will do).

If you are going to lay a layer of insulation under the MDF panel ( mineral wool or glass wool), the thickness of the bar must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

After preparing the bars for the crate, do-it-yourself installation of MDF panels will be carried out as follows:

  • Choose the direction of installation of MDF panels.
  • In a perpendicular direction to the panels to be installed, fix the crate: the lower beam at a distance of 3 to 5 centimeters from the floor, the upper beam - 2-3 cm from the ceiling, fix the bars between them with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 45-50 centimeters.
  • Check the verticality of the resulting surface. If necessary, place pieces of plywood, fiberboard or laminate under the lathing bars.

  • Around (along the perimeter) of windows and doors, as well as in the corners, fix the vertical bars of the crate.
  • If you decide to mount the panels vertically, then you should start mounting the MDF panels with your own hands from the corner, moving from right to left. Attach the first panel (from the edge with a comb) to the bars along the entire height using self-tapping screws, which should be as close as possible to the corner of the room.
  • Fasten the second edge of the panel with clips specially designed for working with MDF, which can be attached to the bar with a construction stapler or small nails.
  • We install all other panels on the wall in the same way, inserting the comb into the groove.
  • The last (on each wall) MDF panel must be cut to right size, and then insert into the groove of the previous one, securing the cut side with self-tapping screws to the bars.

  • Having finished the installation of MDF panels with your own hands, do not forget to close the corners of the room with special MDF corners, which are simply glued on top of the panels. Under these corners, self-tapping screws holding the extreme panels should hide.
  • Similarly, stick the MDF corners on the edges of the panels near windows and doors.

Advantages and disadvantages of MDF panels

The undoubted advantages of MDF panels include not only ease of installation (they can be fixed both vertically and horizontally), but also beautiful appearance, which, thanks to a wide variety of colors, allows you to choose panels for almost any interior. In addition, MDF panels are easy to care for, as they do not require special cleaning (just wipe with a slightly damp cloth). And, of course, MDF panels are relatively cheap finishing materials.

But MDF panels also have disadvantages:

  • Firstly, the walls of such panels, due to the fact that they are attached to the crate, remain hollow.

If you decide to hang something on such a wall, you will have to use special long dowel-nails. In addition, MDF panels do not hold up well to sharp objects (although a damaged finish can be taken apart and the panel replaced).

  • Secondly, the wooden crate under the MDF panels refers to combustible materials (like the panels themselves), so they cannot be used to finish escape routes - corridors, staircases etc. (this rule does not apply to individual residential houses and apartments).
  • Thirdly, MDF panels do not form a continuous, smooth, even surface (that is, you will always see recesses at the points of their joining), which imposes certain restrictions on the designed design of the room using them.
  • Fourthly, if you make the crate step more than the recommended one (45-50 cm), then the panels may begin to “play” under external influence from the room (for example, if you lean on them).

However, even despite the shortcomings of MDF panels, they still compete with drywall, the installation of sheets of which requires much more skills and people (at least two), while you can work with MDF panels alone.

Video

This video demonstrates the installation process of MDF panels.

Mounting MDF panels to the wall is a process that is not difficult if you know all the features of the technology. I will tell you how to cope with the work with minimal time and money, both options have been repeatedly tested by me in practice, which makes it possible to assert with confidence that any developer can fix MDF. It is important to follow all the recommendations below and have a set of necessary tools and fixtures on hand.

Panel fixing methods

Let's analyze what are the ways of attaching MDF panels to the wall, there are only two of them:

  • Lathing device, which can be either wooden or metal, below we will analyze both options;
  • Gluing panels- it is important to choose a quality composition and properly prepare the base.

If you are not sure which option to choose, then you need to familiarize yourself with the advantages of each of the solutions:

  • When constructing the crate, the condition of the walls and their plane do not matter, because you will be building, which will set the position of the future surface;
  • For wet rooms a frame made of a metal profile is more suitable, since it does not change its parameters with changes in humidity and is much more slowly damaged by water;
  • If it is necessary to lay a heater under the finish, then the crate will be an ideal design option, it is very convenient to put any heat-insulating material under it;

  • Gluing is ideal for those places where you need to save as much space as possible. The elements are glued directly to the wall, and this finish does not reduce the usable area. In this case, the state of the surface is great importance- you can not glue the panels anywhere.

Method number 1 - the construction of the crate

We will figure out how to fix MDF panels to the wall using a special frame, which is made either from wood or from a profile. Let's start by looking at a more budgetary and available option using a wooden block.

The workflow looks like this:

  • First of all, you need to buy a bar from which the crate will be built, most often a pine version with a cross section of at least 30x30 mm is used, since the structure must be durable. When choosing a specific option, pay attention to such indicators as humidity (it should not be higher than 15%) and geometric parameters - the elements must be even, deformations should not exceed a few millimeters per linear meter;
  • Then you need to treat the wood with a fire-retardant composition. This is necessary in order to prevent damage to the material by mold and woodworm, as well as to increase the resistance of the bar to fire. The work is done with a simple brush, all the features of the process will be prompted by the instructions, which are necessarily present on the package;

  • Next, you need to take measurements with a tape measure, the length of the bars should be a few millimeters less than the distance between the walls or from floor to ceiling, otherwise you will have to squeeze in the elements. It is important not to confuse anything so as not to spoil the material, and this often happens if measurements are taken carelessly;

Important!
If the MDF panels are horizontal, then the crate must be vertical.
And vice versa - for the vertical arrangement of the panels, you need to make a horizontal frame.
You must know in advance how the finishing will be done.

  • The dimensions are carefully marked on the bar, after which the elements are sawn into pieces of the desired length. When cutting, pay special attention to the correct location of the hacksaw, it should be perpendicular to the bar, often inexperienced craftsmen cut the material at random and all the ends are curved;

  • The bars are fastened either with quick-mount dowels (when you have a concrete or brick base), or with self-tapping screws (if you have wood walls). When working, constantly control the position of the elements so that the plane is even. It is best to check both each individual bar and several already fixed racks, and do this in different level positions in order to definitely avoid flaws;

  • If you decide to additionally insulate the surface, then this should be done after the construction of the frame. For work, it is best to use rolled mineral wool, which is easy to cut and very convenient to work with, just fill the space with it so that it stands tightly, after which you can proceed to the next stage of work;

  • Panels can be fastened in three ways, and the first of them is the use of clamps, this is the name of a special fastener, which is a bracket. The second option is thin self-tapping screws 3x20 mm, which are screwed into a groove or a spike, and the third is thin finishing nails with a reduced head. Choose the solution that is more convenient for you personally, it’s easiest for me to use carnations, work goes much faster with them;

  • Lastly, the inner and outer corners are attached and connecting strips if available. The easiest way is to glue these elements, even small finishing nails will be visible, and with the help of glue you can achieve the perfect look.

As for the option with a metal frame, it is suitable for rooms with changes in humidity, since the galvanized profile perfectly tolerates adverse effects and does not deform over time.

Let's figure out how to fix MDF wall panels to a structure made of metal profiles:

  • First you need to purchase the required amount of the main and wall profile. Wall elements are placed along the perimeter and determine the plane of the future surface, and the main ones carry the load and hold the entire structure;
  • The work begins with the fastening of the wall profile, for this a line is drawn along the perimeter and the elements are fastened to the walls, floor and ceiling. For work, either dowels or self-tapping screws are used, it all depends on the bases on which the installation is carried out;

  • Then lines are marked along which the main profile will be located, it should stand at a distance of 40-50 cm. Direct suspensions are attached along the lines, which will help level the surface, as well as strengthen it and make it resistant to loads. With the help of these elements, the alignment process will be very fast and very high quality;

  • Further, the main profiles are inserted into the resulting structure, the direction of the crate depends on how the final coating will be located, we have considered this aspect above. The profiles are fastened together with the help of small self-tapping screws, which among builders are called bugs or seeds;
  • The hangers are bent to the profile, after which, using the level, the correct position is determined in which the elements are fastened. The extra ends are simply bent outward so as not to interfere with further work, cutting off all the ends does not make sense, and this process takes too much time;

  • Let's figure out how to fix MDF wall panels to a metal frame. For work, kleimers are used, which are screwed to the profile using all the same seeds - small self-tapping screws. The work is best done using a screwdriver with a magnetic nozzle, so you will lose much less fasteners;

  • The last step is the same as in the case of a wooden frame: you need to glue all the decorative elements and put the plinth.

Method number 2 - gluing panels

Fastening MDF panels to a wall without a crate will be a great option where the walls are even and the finish on them is reliable, because you have to glue the elements, and if the base is weak, then they can simply fall off after a certain period of time.

We will figure out how the work is done with our own hands, there is nothing complicated in the process, the main thing is to observe a few simple recommendations and use only high quality materials.

The sequence of operations is as follows:

  • First you need to check the base for damage and unreliable areas, if any, then they need to be repaired. All problems must be eliminated in advance, the better the plane is prepared and the fewer flaws on it, the more attractive it will turn out. final result. Sometimes you have to spend more time on leveling the base than on the main work;
  • Then the surface is treated with a primer. deep penetration. This is necessary in order to strengthen the base and improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the surface. The composition is applied with a roller or brush, it is important to cover the entire wall evenly, but smudges are also not worth it;

  • Next, the material is prepared - MDF panels, if necessary, the elements are cut into pieces of the desired size, cutting is done with a hacksaw or a jigsaw, it is important to accurately measure and carefully cut the plates;
  • An adhesive composition is applied on the reverse side, you can make dots on the surface, you can apply a bezel around the perimeter and dots in the middle, the main thing is that there are many places for gluing;

  • The element is gently pressed against the wall and fixed in this position for a few seconds. Work continues until the entire surface is covered;
  • Lastly, corners and connecting strips are glued, for this the same composition is used as for the main coating. Liquid nails are most often used - their price is affordable, and the quality meets the highest standards.

Important!
Sometimes a combined method is used when MDF panels are glued to a wooden crate.
This option is good when you need to insulate the surface or in cases where it may be necessary to dismantle the coating later.

What you need to work

Naturally, you will need a certain set of tools, I will list what should be at hand without fail:

Hacksaws If you will glue the panels, then you only need a hacksaw with a fine tooth, and the metal option is also suitable. But if you make a frame out of wood, then you need another hacksaw with a larger tooth size.
Measuring tool First of all, you need to have a tape measure, a building level and a marking pencil on hand. In order for the ends to be perfectly even, you need to additionally purchase a square, which will simplify the work and allow you to draw corners
Screwdriver and perforator If you use self-tapping screws, then you cannot do without this power tool. And for fastening the dowels, a more powerful option is needed - a puncher with a drill of the desired diameter
glue gun It is needed if you will glue the elements. The device costs a little, but with its help it is much more convenient to work

If you do not have the same hammer drill or screwdriver, then there is no point in purchasing them for a couple of hours of work. Borrow a tool from friends or rent it, it will be much cheaper.

cut corners from MDF is better just not with a hacksaw, but with a sharp construction knife, so the result will be much better, and the ends are much neater and smoother, the main thing is that the blade is sharp and hard and does not bend when pressed.

Conclusion

In my subjective opinion, the work of fixing MDF is one of the simplest and easiest, you just need to do it once, in order to subsequently quickly and efficiently clad both walls and ceilings. The video in this article will tell you Additional information on the topic, as well as clearly show some important points workflow. If you still have questions, then ask them in the comments under the review.

MDF panels are very popular in the field of interior design. Consumer interest in this finishing material is explained by its low cost, excellent decorative qualities and environmental friendliness. Another important advantage is that wall cladding with MDF panels does not require any special building knowledge and skills, therefore, it is possible to save on the services of professional craftsmen. All work can be easily done with your own hands, you just need to show elementary accuracy and prepare necessary set tools.

Purchase of finishing materials and additional elements

Before buying panels, it is necessary to make measurements of the room, the finishing of which will be carried out. When typing material, one should be guided not only by the quadrature of the surfaces, but also by the dimensions of the panels themselves, taking into account possible waste. Also count the number of outside and inside corners in the room to purchase special finishing corners that match the color of the selected panels.

The finishing corners are thin MDF strips, pressed with a protective and decorative film. Folding along, they form an inner or outer corner of any radius. Finishing with laminated corners allows you to hide corner connections panels and give a finished look to the room.

In addition to finishing materials, it is also necessary to acquire wooden slats or special metal profiles for mounting the crate. The choice of these materials will depend on the layout of the room itself.

Sheathing of internal partition walls is carried out without additional insulation, therefore, wooden bars of 50x40 mm are quite suitable for the crate. If it is supposed to finish the outer walls, then it is more expedient to purchase metal CD and UD profiles or a 40x40 beam, which will create space for the location of the heat-insulating material in the gap between the wall and the panels. In the case of using profiles, you will also need special U-shaped brackets.

The number of elements for the crate is calculated based on the fact that the distance between them should be an average of 0.4-0.5 m. In addition, it is necessary to stock up on screws of the appropriate length for mounting the crate, as well as self-tapping screws, clamps or staplers wooden) for fixing panel strips. You will also need sockets ( mounting boxes for drywall), if there is a need to install a switch or socket, and glue for decorative corners (for example, liquid nails).

However, all these additional elements may not be needed if internal walls have a perfectly flat surface and it is not expected to dismantle the panels after a short period of time. In this case, their installation can be carried out simply by gluing. Liquid mounting nails are perfect for this purpose.

A set of tools for wall cladding with MDF panels with your own hands

  • screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver (for self-tapping screws);
  • perforator (for making holes in concrete walls) or a drill (for plaster, wood, brick and other walls);
  • locksmith square (for precise marking of corners);
  • sawing tool for MDF panels and slats: electric jigsaw (with a fine wood saw), a hand-held circular saw or a regular hand saw with fine teeth (you can use a hacksaw);
  • grinder or scissors for metal (for cutting metal profiles);
  • any type of building level or homemade plumb line for correct vertical mounting panels;
  • furniture stapler (if necessary).

Installation technology

MDF panels are rigid strips of a certain thickness, width and length with interlocking joints. With the use of this material, it is impossible to perform radius bends. You can only sew them flat surfaces(walls, ceilings, slopes).

If the installation of the panels with your own hands will be carried out on the crate, no special preparation of the walls is required, i.e. it is not necessary to clean them of old paint, plaster or wallpaper.

Manufacturing of crates

Initially, it is required to determine the so-called control point. To do this, it is necessary to examine the wall for protruding sections. The most protruding place will play the role of a starting point, focusing on which, the elements of the crate are fixed to the level.

Depending on the design idea, the panel strips can be arranged vertically, horizontally or diagonally, and the mounting of the rails or profiles is carried out in a perpendicular direction to the panels.


Reiki or beams are fixed in increments of 40-50 cm. It is not recommended to increase the distance between them, because. the structure will lose rigidity and may bend. If there are height differences on the surface, use linings of the required thickness to level the depressions.


Properly made metal frame

The technology for arranging the lathing from profiles is somewhat different from the "wooden" version. In this case, a frame of UD profiles is initially mounted along the perimeters of each of the walls. The distance from the wall surface must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Then the locations of the transverse CD profiles are marked. U-shaped brackets are attached along the marking line with a step of about 40 cm. CD profiles are inserted into the starting UD profiles, after which they are fixed with brackets using metal screws.

Paneling

If the project provided for the thermal insulation of the wall, then immediately between the elements of the crate, strips of insulation are laid and fixed. Along the way, inside the structure, electrical cables are laid and they are brought out of the crate, so that after the installation of the panels, their length will allow connecting sockets or switches.

Installation of panels starts from the corner and continues along the wall surface. Each previous strip is carefully attached to the details of the crate through the tongue groove, after which the next panel is inserted into the lock. If the last strip does not fit entirely in width, it will have to be cut off. Fasteners are made along the edge, so that subsequently the fasteners can hide the decorative corner.


In places where sockets and switches will be located, holes are made in the course of work using special nozzle on the drill, into which the wires are output.

To fasten the panels to the crate, several methods are used:


Finishing the room with MDF panels using the adhesive method is carried out by dotted or zigzag application of special glue over the entire strip area. Before sticking the panels, the walls must be treated with a deep-penetrating primer and allowed to dry. A few seconds after applying the adhesive, the strip is carefully pressed and fixed to the wall.


All of the above technologies are applicable to the arrangement of slopes. If the slopes are small, then it will be enough to build a crate frame around the perimeter, without transverse elements.

At the last stage, the outer and inner corners of the room are finished with finishing decorative corners, for fixing which glue is used. Corners can also be placed along the perimeter of the ceiling instead of the ceiling frieze.

At the locations of electrical outlets, special boxes are mounted and sockets or switches are installed.

Wall decoration with MDF panels has recently become more and more popular, due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, the installation of the panels will not take much time, since you do not have to wait for the drying of numerous layers, as, for example, in the case of plastering works. It also plays into the hands that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called quite affordable price on him.

MDF panels wall mounting with their own hands, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, they are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare surfaces and pay special attention to accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation "MDF" stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is made, including wall panels. The production of MDF consists in the process of dry pressing of a finely dispersed mass from sawdust and shavings, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, carbamide resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde, chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered environmentally pure material, so they are not allowed to be used for interior decoration premises. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Mounting wall MDF panels can be carried out in two ways - fixing them to the frame crate or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as "liquid nails". This adhesive is used not only for the installation of wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, as it contains sawdust filler. If the filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible sections of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected by color so that the patched sections do not stand out against the general background.


MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various breeds wood or stone, so they can be chosen for the design of any interior. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades of them alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you want to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To work comfortably, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up installation finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, from the tools you will need:

  • Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
  • Building level and plumb.
  • Tape measure, metal ruler and building corner, a simple pencil or marker.
  • Electric drill, screwdriver or even a regular screwdriver.
  • Construction stapler.
  • A hammer.
  • Pliers.

The main methods of mounting MDF panels and the materials necessary for this

For the installation of MDF, certain auxiliary materials will be required. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Mounting panels on walls can be done in two ways:

  • Kleev.
  • Wireframe.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation, the main condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels are to be glued to the surface, then it must first be leveled with drywall or plaster-putty method.

To mount the panels on glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is the “liquid nails” composition and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall with MDF paneling, while hiding communications behind it or conducting insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for the installation of panels can be made of wooden beam or metal profile. It must be said that mounting MDF is easier to carry out on wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When mounting panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will not be possible to do without.

When using a frame, a gap inevitably forms between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” to mold and fungus. Therefore, before installing the crate, it is imperative to audit the wall. If it is wet, then it will need to be dried first, and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. It is still better not to install such a cladding on external thin walls at all, as it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the cladding panels on the frame, the following materials will be required:

  • A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15 × 30, 20 × 30, 20 × 40 or 20 × 50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as used when installing drywall.
  • Insulation material - foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
  • Metal straight hangers that will help to set the guides exactly in one plane.

  • Kleimers for fixing panels on the frame.

  • Small nails or staples for the stapler.
  • Dowels for attaching brackets (suspensions) or direct rails to the wall.
  • Wood screws.
  • Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal junction of planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon, and then try to eliminate it. It is impossible to close a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles for mounting MDF panels, then how frame system, and for gluing, approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out. It consists of several operations:

  • Wall cleaning.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then they must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality pasted wallpapers, which are difficult to remove, must first be soaked with water or steamed with an iron, and then cleaned with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special formulations for.


If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or qualitatively painted water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

  • Wall processing.

In the event that mold spots are present on the wall, then the surface must be “treated” - treated with a special “Anti-mold” composition or with the usual concentrated bleaching agent “Whiteness”. Before processing, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment should be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus to the ground, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and process the main wall itself well.


"Treatment" of the affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with the mandatory safety measures, in a respirator or in a special mask, in order to avoid inhalation of particles of plaster affected by the fungus.

  • Closing cracks.

If, after removing the wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning the placement of heat and sound insulating materials under the MDF panels. Cracks must be repaired so that they do not become cold bridges, as well as a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or the same mold can find shelter.


Cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster mortar to hold well in the gap of the crack, it needs to be slightly expanded and deepened. Then it is cleaned of residues. old plaster and processed with a brush.


… and then densely filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its full depth.

  • Surface primer.

The next step is to prime the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the emergence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If it is planned to sheathe wooden walls, then it is recommended to choose a primer, which includes not only antiseptics, but also flame retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of wood.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller in two to three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

  • Installation of insulating material.

Further, in the event that the panels will be attached to the crate, you can proceed to gluing the insulation material. For this purpose, "penofol", which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited.


The most convenient in work - "penofol" on a self-adhesive basis

Today, you can find self-adhesive "penofol" on sale - it can be very easily fixed on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material was not found, then the usual "penofol" is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to the Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. Cloths of "penofol" are pressed against the surface, and with the help of a rubber spatula, air is expelled from under it.

Gluing the joints of adjacent strips of "penofol" with adhesive tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are glued with special foil tape.

Frame structure installation

Carrying out markup

If it is decided to mount MDF panels on the frame, then first you need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the batten guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The step between the railing guides is usually chosen within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly even.

To find the perfect vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which straight lines are beaten off on the wall. If the lines are beaten off on a foil surface, then immediately after the beating, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.


To determine the horizontal, I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will give a laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use the usual construction one, expelling the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

According to the markup, it will be quite easy to correctly fix the guide battens.

When marking, it must be taken into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the rest of the elements, maintaining the set step.

wooden frame


Wooden bars, despite the marking lines, when installed on the wall, are still checked by the building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled right through the bars, into which plastic dowels are hammered, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fasteners are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the thickness of the wall by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm, and the thickness of the crate beam is added to this parameter, given that the screw head is completely recessed into the wood.


It is more difficult to bring all the racks of the crate to the same level if the wall requires alignment with the crate, and the bars themselves will have to be fixed to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.


Hangers are first fixed to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a step between adjacent ones at 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. Hanger shelves are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then, two extreme beams on the wall are installed, aligned in level and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.


The installed extreme guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords from above and below (or to the right and left - with the horizontal orientation of the frame) - this will become the reference lines (beacons) for correct installation other guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared in size are fixed on the wall according to the same principle as wooden bars, but sometimes liners are made of timber for structural rigidity. To fix the profile, suspensions are necessarily used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit close to it.


If the frame is mounted on wooden wall, then the hangers for fastening the railing rails are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on a different base of the wall is necessary, then it is best to fix the suspensions with driven dowels-nails.

If the finish is fixed on a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the lining will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame

Before starting the installation of the cladding under the frame, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and fixed, immediately determining the installation locations for sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked with a tape measure and a building corner, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using an electric jigsaw, a manual vertical circular or even a conventional hacksaw.


  • The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is reached, otherwise the entire cladding will go further skewed.
  • The launch panel is installed with a spike in the corner and fixed to the guides from the side of the corner in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the points of its intersection with the railing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to wooden frame. Using metal frame fixation of the clamps is carried out with small self-tapping screws with a low head, so that after it is completely screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

  • To begin with, the spike of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this docking edge is already fixed. Mandatory adjustment of the panel according to the level is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows a certain backlash. After precise exposure, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
  • So continue facing to the end of the wall (or to the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut in its thickness so that it freely enters the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, right through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and at the end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from the floor to the ceiling, and the first canvas must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the crate takes place exactly according to the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

  • In the panel on which the installation of a socket or switch is provided, a round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket (usually 67 mm). Drilling is carried out using a drill-crown.

The socket must be fixed securely, and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure a hard stop against the wall, it is recommended to additionally fix wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and switch is screwed onto cladding panels or to the corresponding sockets of the socket.

Mounting MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels on glue than on a crate, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

  • To install the first panel, it is necessary to beat off a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how the installation is planned.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be controlled by level.

  • Particular attention should be paid to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

- The adhesive must remain flexible enough even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition should be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

- The adhesive must have a thick enough consistency to be able to be applied in a thick or thin layer, as appropriate, and evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.


The best option- glue type "liquid nails"

These requirements in terms of the main parameters are precisely met by the composition "Liquid Nails". The primer that the walls are pre-treated with will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will hold securely on it.

  • Glue is applied to the back of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first firmly pressed against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to “wind” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After that, already for the final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed in the right place, and held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition is firmly set.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels dotted or "snake"

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then come off. After smearing, attaching and tearing off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second, and so on, until it comes to the last. When installing canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed by the next spike to be installed.


  • If the finish is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel dries well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the rest of the paintings. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.
  • The last panel to be mounted, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, drawn and the excess part is sawn off with a jigsaw. In the corner, the last canvas is screwed to the crate or wall with a self-tapping screw.
  • The final elements of the installation are fittings and skirting boards. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes to "liquid nails", covering the heads of the self-tapping screws that fasten the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around the door and window openings(if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued to the same glue, installed on special fasteners or screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. Fixing skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Learn how to produce by reading step by step instructions in an article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with MDF panels

Having become acquainted with technological process installation of MDF panels, it is possible, summing up, to formulate their main positive and negative qualities.


So to virtues Such a finishing material includes the following qualities:

  • Fairly simple installation with the ability to mount the panels both vertically and horizontally.
  • A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish for every taste and interior style.
  • When mounting MDF panels on a frame crate, you can hide cable communications behind them.
  • With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable look and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
  • Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
  • It is easy to take care of the MDF finish, as it is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a damp soft cloth.
  • Finishing MDF wall panels have a very affordable price.

disadvantages such panels can be called the following points:

  • With this finish, a perfectly smooth surface is not created, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
  • When such a cladding is attached to the crate, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, with insufficient pretreatment or other unfavorable conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans can develop. Very often, especially if walls are sheathed in a private house, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or rodent paths.
  • The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
  • MDF does not belong to moisture-resistant materials in any way, therefore, if the wall behind the sheathing starts to get damp, the panels may swell and the lining will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. The installation of such a cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, who has absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all the technological recommendations.

And in conclusion - a small "visual aid" in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to mount MDF panels on walls