Milling cutters for the manufacture of lining, panels and for stone work using a manual milling cutter. Milling cutters for lining and features of their application

If you have free time and a desire to do something useful, then try to make your own facing material. To do this, you need cutters for lining on a special manual milling cutter. Believe me, creating wooden panels with your own hands is a very interesting and exciting activity!

Finger cutters.

Making a lining with your own hands

cutters

Huge range of milling cutters for manual router

Classification of manual cutters for wood:

  1. Bearing (edge) - needed for the production of lining.
  2. Bearingless - used for one-time processing of a specific part. Requires ancillary equipment.

Type of groove fillet cutters

Milling cutters for the production of lining for a special hand mill have a standard shank diameter of 8 mm and the following ratios of diameter (D) and radius (R):

  1. 9.5 and 4.8 millimeters;
  2. 12.7 and 6.35 millimeters;
  3. 15.8 and 7.9 millimeters.

For the manufacture of lining, such cutters can be used, but this is inconvenient.

Use universal milling cutters for lining production.

Universal milling cutters for creating lining can be used with both a manual machine and a milling machine, which is usually equipped with collets. The diameter of the cutters is 35 and 50 mm.

Shell cutters are very convenient for the manufacture of lining.

Shell cutters allow you to make lining with different types of sheet pile. The most important condition is correct setting machine tool and selection of cutter sizes by diameter and depth.

Stages of manufacturing lining

Carefully align one side of the board

  • We prepare even jointed blanks from a simple edged board, making a cut along one of the sides and determining the width of the future panel.

Set the ruler to the desired width

When determining the width of the lining, be guided by all the available boards, because they should turn out the same. The optimal board width is 7-10 cm.

The use of jointed board

Be very careful when jointing the boards, count the number of passes along the cutter so that the thickness of the boards is approximately the same.

Lining with grooves, connected on both sides with a thin rail

Do not throw away the tree left after cutting the wane. From the resulting waste, make thin slats for connection.

The process of cutting a groove with a cutter

After the boards are cut and planed, it's time to do the tenons and grooves, i.e. groove it around the entire perimeter. Install the cutter on the machine and adjust the depth of the groove by raising or lowering the table to the desired position. Gently move the ruler to the desired distance, at the time of processing, press the board firmly against the edge.

The process of processing boards on the surface gage

In order to create a lining manually, you will need a calibrated board, previously passed through a thickness gauge.

The work of a manual thicknesser

Make a comb with a face mill, the width of which must be adjusted with washers - the thickness should be at least 4 mm and not more than 6 mm. Using a panel cutter, carefully remove the residue from the top so that the straight section is at least 5 mm. You do the other side of the lining in the same way, but the chamfer is removed with a panel cutter of a smaller size.

Wooden lining is a thin cladding board with special cutouts that ensure ease of installation, which is consistently in high demand in the market.

This is a universal material, with its help you can create a sophisticated interior, clad the outer wall. The tree is completely harmless, lining is suitable even for a children's room. Planks of any shape can be bought at a hardware store, or you can make it yourself, for this you will need a machine for making lining, material and, of course, desire.

Is it worth buying

It is not difficult to buy lining. There are various types of wood available for sale, they differ in the wood used, color, texture, shape of the outer surface, so you can choose the material that is ideal for any project. With all this, the lining has a significant drawback - the high price.

When starting a major repair, it would be useful to consider the option of making the lining yourself. It is worth noting that even the simplest machine of this type will have a high price, and before deciding to purchase, it is necessary to evaluate its profitability.

Do you need a similar machine in your home workshop or not - it's up to the master himself, you can only give a few arguments in favor of the purchase:

  • the production of lining in a home workshop will significantly save on building material;
  • hand-made products will be obviously of a higher quality than similar ones that go on sale;
  • the machine can become a source of additional income due to the tangible difference in price between the edged board and the finished lining.

Also, we must not forget that this machine is multifunctional. The scope of its application is not limited to the production of lining. With it, you can make a number of other profiled wood products, among others: trim, skirting boards, curly slats for all kinds of frames.

The principle of the machine

The manufacturing process of lining includes processing the workpiece from four sides. First of all, the board passes circular saws that create smooth edges. Next, the thickness gauge calibrates the workpiece. The last step is milling, as a result of which chamfers and connection elements (thorn and groove) are formed.

In principle, all these actions can be performed on different machines, but this is inefficient. It is much more reasonable to use one machine, which will allow you to get a completely finished product at the output, moreover, in one pass.

The operation of this machine is possible due to the simultaneous installation of several (from 4 to 7) spindles on one tabletop. By adjusting the distance between the saws, it is easy to designate the geometric dimensions of the resulting board, changing the cutters - to flexibly adjust the profile of the product.

At manufacturing enterprises, powerful machines with working surfaces up to 12 m are used; for the manufacture of lining at home, you can choose a portable device. At the same time, the power of a small household machine more than enough for the needs of the current repair.

Components of a homemade machine

The machine for the production of lining can be made independently, but it must be borne in mind that it has a complex design. You can take on such work only if you have experience and relevant knowledge.

Blueprints simple machine for a home workshop is easy to find on the Internet. Structurally, it consists of several main devices assembled on a common frame.

bed

The skeleton of the machine is a massive steel structure, which ensures the stability and reliability of fastening of all components and assemblies. The frame must be stationary, for this its center of gravity is located as low as possible. The components of the frame are interconnected by welding.

tabletop

The best material for a homemade machine table is a polished steel plate. Technological holes are made in it for the exit of the cutting tool, stops are installed on it. The tabletop is made narrow and elongated in length, its task is to support the workpiece during processing.

For a small machine, the tabletop can also be made from sheet materials based on wood. Suitable laminated boards or thick plywood. The best thing similar design upholstered with metal or pasted over with durable plastic.

Engine

All rotating devices are powered by an electric motor. Even for a small machine, its power should exceed 2 kW. The transmission of rotation is carried out using belts. For effective work different cutting devices need different rotation speeds, this is achieved by using pulleys of different diameters.

Clamping mechanism

The task of this mechanism is to accurately orient the workpiece and hold it during processing. It is implemented by a set of rollers fixed on the tabletop. They are made removable, which allows the machine to be used for the manufacture of boards of various widths.

Cutting tool

Circular saws and milling cutters form the profile of the product at the exit. The quality of the resulting lining depends primarily on the quality of this node. By changing the cutting tool and its parameters, it is possible to adjust the machine for the production of various products.

By creating homemade machine important to ensure the safety of its operation. All rotating parts must be covered with metal covers. The on/off unit must be located in close proximity to the operator. The off button must be red, easy to press and in no case be recessed into the body of the switch.

Lining with a circular

Often a situation arises when it is not the aesthetics of the material that comes to the fore, but only its practicality, for example, it is necessary to finish the walls or ceiling of a utility room, cellar, workshop. For these purposes, a simple and reliable lining made by hand on a circular is perfect.

The first step is to prepare the lumber. You will need boards 15-20 mm thick, 8-10 cm wide. It is reasonable to assume that the wider the board, the less it will be needed, the faster the work will be done. This is true, but only in part. A large width plus a primitive connection, the grooves for which can be made with a circular, are guaranteed to lead to warping of the board, thereby fragility of the coating.

Workpieces must be aligned in width. To do this, the side stop of the circular saw is set with a ruler, fixed. Each board is processed in turn, the width is adjusted to a single value.

Note! In the process of work, you should carefully inspect the workpieces. You should not try to make a lining from a board in which there are a lot of knots, or there are few of them, but they are large. At home, they definitely cannot be fixed, they will soon fall out.

After the boards are leveled, they are cycled. A jointer is best suited for this, but factory circulars can also perform this function. Of course, you can process the board with a manual or electric planer.

Next, you need to create a groove and a spike for fastening the lining. The easiest way is to make mirror samples at opposite ends of the board. Their accuracy and symmetry is achieved by adjusting the height of the disc exit and the distance from the saw to the stop.

With a board thickness of 20 mm, the output of the disc should be 10 mm, the distance to the ruler is also 10 mm. The first pass is made flat. Pressing the board to the side stop, make a groove in it for half the thickness. Next, the board is placed on the edge, repeat the operation. The same actions, but in mirror image, are performed from the other end.

As a result of the described actions, a rough version of the lining is obtained, which is easy to mount, it creates an attractive flat surface.

Using a milling machine

The presence of a milling machine for wood will allow you to make a lining of a sufficiently high quality. It can be safely faced not only utility rooms, but also living rooms. Using milling cutters of various configurations, you can make any type of lining with your own hands, including those using special demand eurolining.

Eurolining advantages:

  • more reliable connection;
  • cuts on the reverse side, allowing the coating to breathe;
  • an abundance of profiles that allow you to create a unique surface;
  • high durability.

Before starting work, you need to prepare the material. Boards should be even and smooth. Blanks with knots on the side faces are immediately rejected - there is a high probability that they will fly out during the milling process. Also discarded boards with darkening, longitudinal cracks, having a visible curvature.

The best milling tool for making lining is a machine with a vertical spindle. A cutter is put on it for making a groove with the simultaneous removal of a decorative chamfer. The cutting tool is set depending on the required processing depth and is securely fixed.

It will be more convenient to work if the machine is improved a little, namely, to install several metal rollers on the tabletop, which will fix the rail, adjusting the processing depth, allowing it to move progressively along the knife.

Note! Before undertaking the manufacture of lining, it is worth testing the machine. To do this, you need to cut a short rail, check it and, if the result suits you, go directly to work.

After one side is processed, the cutter is changed. It is convenient to work with a type-setting tool, cutters assembled from several knives. By changing the configuration of the cutting edge, it is possible to produce different kinds lining.

You can also make grooves on the inside of the lining, for this, the workpiece is placed on the edge, pressed with the help of rollers.

lumber requirements

It is possible to make high-quality lining only from the appropriate lumber. There are several rules about this:

  • it is better to take wood from the bottom of the tree. It has a good texture, it has fewer knots;
  • the workpiece must be even and smooth. The presence of cracks, rot, traces of bark beetle activity is not allowed;
  • the boards from which the lining will be made must be dried, humidity is allowed no more than 12-16%. Otherwise, the lining can lead, and one low-quality board will easily ruin the entire wall.

The type of wood is selected depending on the purpose of the lining. A variety of woods are used for work, most often it is pine, cedar, larch, oak, ash.

The most popular is considered to be coniferous wood. It is perfect for both interior decoration as well as for external walls. Indoors, it creates a special comfort, filling the air with a barely perceptible resinous aroma.

Linden, due to its softness and suppleness, allows you to make lining of the most complex profile. Oak and larch have excellent consumer characteristics and high durability. Their only drawback is the complexity of processing, it is necessary to use cutters made of hard alloys.

Interior decoration with wooden clapboard is a modernized classic. Refined and human-friendly interiors, beautiful and functional exterior - all this can be done by yourself. A mini-machine for the production of lining will save on building material, and a full-fledged stationary one will help you make good money.

Everyone spends their leisure time in their own way, but it is best to do it with benefit. We offer you to make your own material for finishing your house or apartment. To do this, you will first need milling cutters for lining on a manual milling cutter. Imagine how convenient it is to make material for home repairs, you will agree that it is not only exciting, but also useful.

The photo shows milling cutters for the manufacture of lining with a manual milling cutter

Existing types of tool

Cutters for a manual router for the manufacture of lining - a set for professional use

  1. Manual cutters are divided into:
    • edging,
    • bearing,
    • bearingless.

In order to make wood panels yourself, you will need bearing cutters, other types of tools require additional equipment, which means they are not suitable for us;

Cutting tools for handmade

  1. Milling cutters for the manufacture of lining for a manual milling cutter are very diverse. Before you get started, you need to decide what kind of tools you will need to make wood panels. Do not forget also that some cutting tools can only be used for manual work, but it is undesirable, because of the inconvenience;

Universal Models

Note! The lining cutter shown in the photo above is universal due to the fact that it is convenient to use it both on the machine and in manual car milling type. The diameter of such parts can range from 35 to 59 millimeters, depending on the length of the shank.

Plug-in models

  1. The cutter for making lining, which is shown in the photo, will help you make a panel with any tongue and groove. It is important to set up the machine correctly, namely to choose a cutter in diameter and depth.

Self-manufacturing process

Manufacturing wooden panels on one's own

  • Making a lining with your own hands is not an easy task, but this does not mean at all that you cannot do it. The main thing in this case is attentiveness and compliance with safety regulations;
  • First, make jointed blanks so that they are even. Make a cut immediately on one side of the uncut board, and then proceed to determine the width of the panel;

Homemade machine for the manufacture of wooden products

  • Before you finally decide on the width of the panel, you need to look at the width of all your boards so that in the end they all turn out the same. detailed instructions will help you to do everything consistently and without errors, most importantly, be careful;

Jointed boards

  • When planing the material, you should be extremely careful, because it is in the process of planing boards that even professionals get injured. In order for the resulting material to be identical in thickness, it is necessary to count the phase passes, that is, their number.

Important! In order for the processing of boards to be simple and uncomplicated, to pass without problems, it is necessary to take material whose length does not exceed two meters. It is convenient to work with such boards, they are easy to handle. If the boards are very short, then their processing is facilitated if this process is carried out with a manual milling cutter.

Board joining methods

Remember! When you cut the wane, very often there is enough material left that you should not throw it away. From these wastes it will be possible to make small connecting rails.

In the photo - the process of cutting a groove

  • In the case when the board has already been processed, you only need to make a spike and, of course, a groove. We set the table so that it is convenient for you to work on it and groove the board. Do not forget that it is constantly necessary to adjust the depth of the groove and the workpiece must always be firmly pressed against the table;

We process the board on a surface gage

  • You probably understood how to make a lining with a manual milling cutter, but it will still be necessary to talk about the details and nuances of this matter, because each business has its own characteristics that you need to know. Remember that if you need a calibrated board, you will need a thickness gauge to make it, a manual machine will not work for this;

Milling cutter work

  • When working with a manual router, you need to be extremely careful. Because this device is considered dangerous. Sometimes even the masters of their craft make a mistake and get injured, so beginners need to be always on the alert. Do not forget about safety precautions, and also monitor the thickness of the product so that your material is even;
  • Even a novice can make a lining with a manual milling cutter, if he familiarizes himself with all the rules for working with this device before starting work. Don't forget that quality equipment guarantees you the safety of work, do not save on this.

Outcome

In the construction market today you can find all types and sizes of building materials. Do not forget that the price for them is much higher than the cost of the material from which you yourself will make the lining. In the video below you can see individual stages making wooden panels with your own hands on the machine.

At industrial production lining, powerful woodworking machines are used, which make it possible to obtain products of excellent quality, but not all users can afford it. Is it possible to make a lining on your own and what is needed for this? We will talk about this in this article.

DIY lining

Industrial production technology

Lining - what kind of material is it

You will need this knowledge in order to independently make the best decisions during the manufacture of lining at home. The process of industrial production of lining consists of several stages.

  1. Board manufacturing. The whips are sawn on band sawmills or circular sawmills on a cutting board of the specified parameters. The thickness of the board is in the range of 15-25 mm, the width is 100-150 mm. Specific dimensions depend on the type of lining.
  2. Drying lumber. The process takes place in chamber dryers, due to which the amount of waste is reduced, the risks of torsion and cracking of the boards are minimized.
  3. Sorting. Lumber is sorted according to quality. For the manufacture of lining boards are selected not lower than the second grade.
  4. Lining manufacturing. The process takes place on a powerful four-sided planer. Due to the selection of different cutters and knives, four planes are processed in one pass, and the desired profile is immediately created on them.

    Lining production line

  5. Quality control and warehousing of products.

Warehouse lining

That's the whole technology, there is nothing complicated, modern equipment allows you to automate production to the maximum. At home, this cannot be achieved, you will have to spend much more time to make distillation.

Table. Lining classes and their description.

No cracks, knots or other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There are 1 healthy bitch for 1 running meter(knot diameter not more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ of the panel long, non-through - less than 9.5 cm long (the exit of cracks is directed to the end of the panel), which appeared during drying - no more than the width of the panel. There can be pitchers and resin pockets of 2 pcs. at 1 m p.
A lot of knots, of which there can be no more than 2 pieces falling out. per 1 meter. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs per 1 meter) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
The quality is low. Lots of different defects. Such lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work.

Clapboard classification

List of minimum set of tools and equipment

First of all, you must have a special separate room for work, woodworking machines create a lot of noise and dust. Need to meet requirements sanitary authorities. Another condition is that the electrical wiring must withstand additional loads, and they, depending on the brand of machines and their number, can increase significantly.

On a note! With your own hands, you can make both the simplest and rather complex lining, we will consider both manufacturing options. But there are a few prerequisites for all options.

General requirements

On what machines and no matter how difficult you try to make lining, you must comply with the following requirements.

  1. lumber quality. Boards should only be edged, with the same thickness and width. Wide planes must be passed through the thickness gauge from at least one, and preferably from two sides. For these purposes, it is better to have a double-sided thicknesser at home, and if not, then at least an elementary planer.

Planer

Double-sided thicknesser

If there are no such machines, then you can work with a manual electric planer. These works are quite difficult and long, and the quality will always be much lower than during the processing of lumber on machines.

Practical advice! We strongly recommend that you do not plan boards with a manual electric planer. It is much more profitable to take the lumber to a friend who has a double-sided thicknesser, in an hour or two of work you will miss 1-2 m3 of boards - this amount is enough to finish a small village house. You will have to plan them manually for more than one day, while, as we have already mentioned, there will be no quality. Such lining can only be used for finishing auxiliary premises.

  1. Drying. You can only work with lumber that has no more than 24% relative humidity. If the indicators are higher, then dry the boards under a canopy or in a ventilated room. The larger the gap between the stacks, the faster the lumber will get rid of excess moisture. Fold them carefully, do not allow the appearance of distortions, properly lay the gaskets, be sure to press the upper tier with a load.

    Drying lining

  2. Job. Strictly follow the safety regulations. According to statistics, woodworking machines are considered the most traumatic equipment. Moreover, the injuries are very severe and often cause disability. This does not mean that machines should be feared, but they should be treated with respect. As for the use of gloves, this issue must be approached wisely. Mittens protect hands from splinters, that's right. But it is also true that when the mitten gets under the cutting element, the hand or arm is tightened, injuries are much more dangerous.

Machine for the manufacture of lining

What machines and equipment are needed for the manufacture of do-it-yourself lining, we will tell in the course of the article. The fact is that there are a large number of technologies, taking into account existing machines, it is impossible to describe everything in one article. Let's start with the manufacture of the simplest lining - such work is available to most inexperienced craftsmen.

Making lining with a circular

Making lining with a circular

Circular saw

This is the simplest version of the circular saw, others have additional calipers for fixing other woodworking mechanisms, which greatly expands their capabilities.

Universal woodworking machine

Step 1. Prepare lumber, decide on their quantity. For work, you will need boards planed on both sides with a thickness of about 15–20 mm and a width of up to 10 cm. You don’t need to do it wider, this is due to the fact that the lining has the most elementary profile, and it cannot guarantee the absence of warpage during operation. The lining will be connected in a quarter, and such a lock cannot completely eliminate warping. The wider the lining, the greater value may have warping, in this regard, it is not recommended to make it more than 8 cm.

Determining board sizes

Step 2 Remove your workspace. Workpieces should be located on one side of the saw, finished products should be stored on the other.

Important! Nothing should interfere with you under your feet, all attention will be paid to the working saw, there is no time to look under your feet - this increases the risk of injury. If the boards are longer than a meter, then do not work on your own, because it is difficult and very dangerous. In addition, the risks of serious injury increase significantly, and the amount of waste increases. The fact is that you will not be able to press it normally against the ruler at the exit of the board from the cutter, the linearity of milling is violated at the ends.

Step 3 Trim all the boards in length, inspect their surfaces. If there are black rotten loose knots, discard the lumber. At home, such knots cannot be processed, they will definitely fall out.

When storing blanks, pay attention to the location of the fibers, especially carefully monitor the location of defects in the development of wood. Loose areas are very difficult to process. Arrange the boards so that the grain is in the direction of rotation of the cutting tool, otherwise the surface finish will be unsatisfactory. On industrial machines, such problems almost do not arise, they work at high speeds, have at least four knives on one head, mechanical clamps eliminate the possibility of the board swaying during processing. Due to this, cutting conditions are observed perfectly, the quality of processing complex surfaces is significantly improved.

Cutting one side of the board

Important! Never remove the guard and wedge from the saw. They are not needed to keep sawdust flying into the eyes, as inexperienced carpenters think. Their main purpose is to prevent the board from hitting back, with such a departure it can pierce the abdominal cavity.

Unlike other safety features, the split guard provides added convenience when sawing, so don't miss a chance to use it.

Here's what should happen

Step 4 Pull out the circular saw. If the width of the boards is not the same, then you first need to align them. To do this, set the saw ruler at the desired distance from the teeth and fasten it firmly. Pay attention that the ruler is parallel to the saw, this is very important. Factory machines have special marks, for home-made ones you will have to use a square. Checking the correctness of the position is done empirically. Take a small piece of board and saw through it, check the width and parallelism of the ruler. Repeat the installation if necessary.

We saw off the second side along the ruler

Line cutting process

plank jointing

You should get the following

Step 5 A simple lining has a quarter connection, it can be made on an ordinary circular.

Connection in a quarter

To do this, you need to adjust the height of the saw table and its distance from the ruler. How it's done? To simplify the example, let's take a board thickness of 20 mm. Accordingly, the quarter will be 10 × 10 mm.

To do this, you can use this cutter

  1. Release the ruler holder and slide it towards the saw. The distance between them should be 10 mm, carefully monitor the parallelism of the planes. Fix the ruler and check the correct installation. To do this, use any segments, skip a few for the test.
  2. Adjust the position of the circular table so that the saw teeth at the maximum point are at a height of 10 mm.

After adjustment, your saw height and its distance to the ruler should be 10 mm. If the boards have other parameters, then the distances must be adjusted in accordance with them.

Step 6 Start making the connection at a quarter. The first pass - the board is flat, side surface tightly pressed against the line. After completion, the board has a cut along the entire length.

This can be done with a cutter, or you can do without it. In this case, a small saw blade is taken and set obliquely. The result is the so-called drunk saw". This method is used when there is no cutter. It is much more difficult to set up and is used when there is no other way out. Better yet, buy a cutter

Important! Do not press the boards near the saw with your hand, use a wooden block. So that it does not slip off the end of the board, saw through a recess - it should simultaneously rest against the board from above and against the end. Never rest against the end of a long board with your stomach, hold it only with your hands, and the body should be located on the side.

Step 7 Set the board on edge, the cut should be on the side of the ruler, cut out a quarter. Immediately remove the cut rail from the table, do not litter the workplace.

Step 8 Rotate the board 180° and repeat the operation on the other side. The lining should have a mirror arrangement of quarters. If on one side the recess is located on top, then on the opposite side it should be on the bottom. During the installation of the lining, the joints overlap and close the joints.

It turned out such a lining

Step 9 If possible, it is recommended to mill the visible side faces with a hand mill. Choose the cutter profile you like, firmly fix the board in an upright position and make a pass with the tool. How to work with hand cutters is described in detail in the manufacturer's instructions. By the way, the presence of a manual cutter greatly expands the possibilities, such a tool is recommended for everyone involved in carpentry.

Work with a manual router

If you use serviceable saws with victorious soldering, and the machine has sufficient stability, then in the manufacture of such a simple lining, you can completely do without a thickness gauge and a milling cutter. Properly selected saw speed and optimum feed rate ensure a good surface finish. If necessary, the latter can be processed in some places with a sandpaper or grinder, and external surfaces lining on the quality will be quite satisfactory.

It remains to take the waste and file the rails. Moreover, the slats do not have to be made as long as the lining. In other words, the boards themselves, the slats themselves. No one will notice the joints of the rails. Reiki should be sawn thinner than our grooves. The slats will still fit perfectly in the grooves due to their natural curvature. And, of course, the slats are just sawn. They do not need to be cut, especially since this is an extremely dangerous undertaking. When using a good saw, the rake will be quite smooth anyway.

This is what the cellar ceiling looks like, finished with such a clapboard

Now let's look at how you can make eurolining on your own.

Production of eurolining on a milling machine

It's over complex work, you will need solid experience with woodworking machines. We will talk about the technology, and choose the dimensions of the lining and the profiles of the front surfaces yourself, taking into account the availability of tools and personal preferences.

The design of the machine is quite complex. A complete instruction manual must be attached to such equipment without fail.

We see an example of a home-made machine for the manufacture of lining, its components and parts

We see another example of a home-made machine for the production of lining at home

What is the difference between eurolining and ordinary lining?

  1. The tongue/groove connection is deeper. Due to this, the risks of translucence of the seams during a significant reduction in the width of the boards are eliminated, and the installation of the sheathing is simplified. It is easier to insert hardware for fastening into a deep groove.
  2. The reverse side has one or two slots - the wall surfaces can breathe, static forces are reduced during the change in the linear dimensions of the lining. It is as a result of strong static forces that the cladding of the house can warp.

For the initial data, we take that the boards of the required sizes have already been prepared, the material has been sorted and stacked in the proper place.

Step 1. Mount the cutter for making a groove and a side decorative chamfer on the machine, adjust the depth. To do this, release the ruler, put the end of the board to the knife and, moving the ruler closer or further, find the desired position. Secure the cutter head and ruler with great force.

Cutters used in the manufacture of lumber

In order to correctly set all the knives on the head, you need to cut a piece of the board for testing. Next, put it back on the cutter and, slowly turning the head in the opposite direction, check if all the knives work. You can recognize this by sound, if everything is fine, then the number of minor touches on the board should correspond to the number of cutters. For example, if the head has four knives, and you only feel three touches, then this means that one knife does not work. Find which one, adjust its position. This is quite difficult to do, it will take several attempts. Make sure that the expansion wedges of the knives are strongly pressed against the head.

Several different knives-nozzles on a home-made machine for making lining will allow you to create various wood products

Step 2 Fasten the top and side clamps, set the desired distance. Such stops greatly facilitate the milling process, improve quality and increase safety. Skip all the boards on one side.

Step 3 Change the cutter to a new one, it should cut a groove and remove the decorative chamfer. The clamps do not need to be re-adjusted, the width of all boards is the same and did not change during the first pass.

Step 4 Remove the cutter for side surfaces, release the ruler and clamps. Install a cutter to make recesses on the inside of the lining. The size and number of grooves do not matter, select them at your discretion.

Production of eurolining on a milling machine

Practical advice! If you don't have special grooving knives, no problem, you can use the same ones that were used for grooving. Raise the head so that the groove knife is in the middle of the board. The groove knife is longer than the chamfer knives, set the distance to the ruler so that only it works. The depth of the groove in this case will be approximately 3-5 mm, which is quite enough for the groove.

What determines the quality of homemade lining

Working with lumber is much more difficult than working with metal. In nature, there are no two completely identical boards, not to mention the different properties of soft and hard rocks. The metal does not have knots, does not absorb moisture, has no malformations, etc. And these indicators affect the processing technology. Industrial equipment allows you to greatly simplify the process due to the large mass of machines, the accuracy of adjustments, stable mechanical feed and strong pressure.

Homemade lining

At home, all cutting parameters must be observed independently and quickly changed depending on the features of the board and the capabilities of the machine. What should be remembered?

  1. Pay attention to the location of the fibers, never process lumber "against the grain".
  2. Check the condition of the bearings. The slightest beating will certainly affect the roughness of the surfaces. As soon as it is found that the machine shaft is slightly staggering, the bearing must be urgently changed or, if possible, adjusted. Tenths of a millimeter of vibration noticeably worsen the final quality.
  3. The serviceability of cutting tools is one of the important components of surface cleanliness. Saws and cutters must be sharp. If you make cutters yourself, then use only durable grades of tool steel. The geometry of all cutters must be the same. Otherwise, some of them will not work, and this is a very undesirable phenomenon.
  4. Accurately set the cutters, do not rush. It is very difficult for an inexperienced master to set all the cutters at once, do not be discouraged. Lose more time, but achieve the desired result. The time lost will be repaid in the long run.

    Milling cutters form a tongue and groove, and also determine the geometry of the lining

  5. The more cutters, the better. If the head allows you to set four, then do so, do not work with two. Four cutters slightly increase the installation time, but then the machine works more time - they become less blunt.

    Cutter set

  6. Always use exactly the same wedges to secure the knives. Even small differences in weight cause the head to vibrate. Vibration not only impairs the quality of processing, but also causes rapid wear of bearings, increases the risk of injury.
  7. Observe the cutting conditions for lumber. This is a very important condition. The cutting conditions include the number of revolutions of the shaft, the number of cutting planes, the feed rate and the sharpening angle. You can talk on this topic for a very long time, cutting modes have a huge number of options. Beginning craftsmen need to get at least a little familiar with the theory, and in the future it all depends on the ability to practically learn and the desire to work with woodworking machines.
  8. Before feeding the board to the machine, inspect it, select the optimal cutting direction, taking into account the characteristics of the surfaces, the presence and type of knots and other defects.
  9. Fold the finished lining in even stacks, do not put it vertically, do not scatter it throughout the workshop. Cleanliness and order are evidence of the professionalism of the master.

    The lining is folded in even stacks

  10. If there is little experience, then the entry / exit of the board may be defective due to a slight change in direction of movement and non-parallelism with the ruler. Keep this in mind when determining the length of the lining, make a margin in length.

Nails for lining

Fasteners must securely hold the lining and at the same time be completely invisible. To fix the panels to the crate, self-tapping screws, kleimers, screws are used, but the most practical option- it's nails. But the nails for lining are needed not ordinary, but finishing, differing in the shape of the hat and some characteristics.

Video - The simplest do-it-yourself lining

The purchase of a manual router is a good opportunity to do many useful things around the house, improve its interior and exterior, carry out repair and construction work. However, in order for a hand mill to turn into a useful and efficient device, it must be equipped with the appropriate tools - such as cutters for lining or panels, for working on stone, metal and other materials. It is easy to find and purchase such products on the modern market, but before making a choice, you should understand what these cutters are and what parameters they are characterized by.

Making lining with a manual milling cutter is a task that is quite feasible at home

Types of tools for equipping a manual router

When choosing a tool to equip your hand router with, you must first decide what tasks you are going to solve with it. In addition, the characteristics of the material to be processed should also be taken into account (wood cutters, for example, are made of a softer material than stone cutters).

Working heads of cutters can have different profiles

On the modern market, as mentioned above, there are many different cutters designed to equip hand-held power tools. If we talk about the most popular types, then we should highlight:

  • cutters for lining;
  • cutters for panels;
  • tool for performing stone work;
  • spiral cutters designed for woodworking.

Milling cutters for the manufacture of lining

The lining, which is actively used today for both interior and exterior finishing work, is a high-quality processed board, on one of the sides of which a tongue is made, and on the other - a groove. For the manufacture of such finishing material you need a cutter for lining, the task of which is precisely to form grooves and tongues on the side surface of a wooden board.

A set of nozzles for the manufacture of lining consists of two cutters, each of which is designed to process one side of the board

Milling cutters for the manufacture of lining, thus, are divided into two main types, depending on which element they form - a tongue or groove. Each of these types of cutters for lining, some models of which can also be installed on a hand mill, differ both in their size and design.

The cutters used for the manufacture of lining differ in the type of their shank, which can have a diameter of 8 and 12 mm. This allows them to be used to equip equipment of various capacities. A typical cutter for the manufacture of lining contains the following elements in its design:

  • two discs with cutting knives;
  • a bearing located between the cutting discs;
  • an axis on which all structural elements are fixed with a fixing nut.

Clap cutters are usually collapsible to replace the cutting part or bearing

The cutting part of such cutters, which can be sharpened independently up to four times, is made mainly of a steel alloy of the VK8 grade. For the manufacture of lining with a manual milling cutter, both universal and specially designed cutters for equipping manual electrical equipment can be used.

The geometric parameters of the lining must comply with the requirements of the relevant normative documents, in particular DIN 68126 (evrovonka) and GOST 8242-88 (domestic products). In this regard, the tool used for the manufacture of such products must meet certain requirements both in size and in the configuration of the cutting part.

Stone tools

Tools for a hand router designed for working on stone are distinguished by the variety of their design. The choice depends not only on which stone needs to be processed, but also on the nature of the upcoming technological operation. So, depending on the design, there are radius, profile and overrunning cutters for working on stone, as well as for inlay work.

Depending on the material of manufacture of the cutting part of the cutter for stone work, there can be:

  • equipped with hard-alloy plates, which are soldered onto the cutting part;
  • with carbide elements mechanically fixed on the cutting part;
  • with diamond coating.

Varieties of diamond cutters for a manual router

The most effective for stone processing are cutters made using diamond chips. They can be produced by sintering such chips or by electroplating them on the work surface. More wear-resistant are tools obtained by sintering, the working part of which consists of several layers of diamond chips. The wear resistance of such cutters is explained by the fact that when grinding the upper layer of their working part, the next one is exposed, the diamond grains of which have not yet been worn out.

Stone cutters, on the working surface of which the diamond layer is applied by galvanic method, are less subject to deformation and allow processing with higher accuracy.

Figure cutters

With the help of cutters for panels (or figurines), thin boards of a certain configuration are made, which are framed by various decorative elements. Panels are most often used for the manufacture of decorative frames, as well as for the design of furniture facades. A panel element used exclusively for decorative purposes can be cut along the contour of the product. By means of milling cutters for a panel, it is possible to produce products that simultaneously perform two functions: they act as a decorative element and fix the elements to be connected to each other according to the “thorn-groove” principle.

Processing the edge of the tabletop with a figurine cutter

On the modern market, various cutters for paneling are offered, involving the manufacture of such a decorative element in one or more passes. In the manufacture of panels in several passes at each stage technological process a layer of material is removed for which the tool used is designed. As a rule, in such cases, not one tool for the panel is used, but a whole set of them.

Panel cutters can work in vertical and horizontal planes. Vertical milling cutters for panels process skirting boards and edges of cornices, which involves processing to a greater depth. Horizontal cutters for panels are distinguished by a larger diameter of the cutting part. With their help, they process furniture facades, shelves and door panels. Although cutters of this type can increase productivity, they are significantly inferior to vertical cutters in terms of depth of cut. It should be noted that almost no production is complete without panel-type milling cutters.

Figure cutters are divided into single-sided and double-sided

Spiral cutters

Spiral cutters are also actively used in furniture production. In appearance and design, they are very similar to drills. Like twist drills, there are grooves on their working part, with the help of which chips of waste material are removed from the processing zone. Spiral cutters are divided into the following categories:

  • with a downward cut;
  • with an upward cut;
  • combining both mentioned types.

Types of spiral cutters

The main areas of application of spiral type cutters, which are presented in a wide range on the modern market, are:

  • cutting material;
  • formation of elements of various configurations on the surface of hardwood products;
  • creation of grooves and recesses of various configurations on the surface of wood products.

Spiral cutters are often used in combination with a guide sleeve.

Among the advantages of using spiral cutters for wood processing are the following:

  1. formation of a cut, characterized by high purity and accuracy of the performed processing;
  2. significantly less sawdust emission than with other tools;
  3. low noise and vibration during operation;
  4. high precision and processing performance when performing plunge milling.

Thus, a variety of cutters that can be equipped with both stationary and manual electrical equipment allows you to successfully perform various technological operations. With the help of such tools, not only do-it-yourself lining can be made, but many other technological operations can also be performed to improve the home interior.

The main requirement that should be followed when choosing such cutters is to take into account their main purpose and the characteristics of the material being processed, whether it is wood for lining or stone.

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Making lining at home is suitable only for those who have a lot of free time at their disposal, have patience and perseverance. From this article, you will find out the smallest details of its manufacture with your own hands, while significantly saving your budget, since the difference in price between the lining and the unedged board is significant. The positive aspects of the use of lining are visible to the naked eye: this is, first of all, the low cost of the material itself, and since the installation process is extremely simple, there is no need to hire a working team, you can cope with your own efforts.

About material

Before undertaking the manufacture of lining, it is recommended to understand what material you are dealing with. This knowledge will be useful for self-acceptance optimal solutions while working at home.

The process itself takes place in several stages.

  • Board production. The whip is taken as the basis - the trunk, which has already been cleared of the root part and knots. With the help of a band or disc sawmill, the whip is sawn according to the specified parameters. An approximate value within fifteen millimeters is taken for the thickness of the board, and one hundred millimeters for the width.
  • Drying lumber. Fresh wood has a lot of moisture. During transportation, cutting or storage, it can consume or accumulate moisture in its composition to a greater or lesser extent. In addition, wood is a hygroscopic material, that is, it is able to absorb water vapor from the air. For use in construction work maximum dry wood material is required. In order to reduce the amount of waste, moisture and minimize the risk of cracking the board, this step is extremely important.

It occurs in a specialized chamber drying.

  • Sorting. Lumber is sorted according to quality. For the production of lining, a board is selected, the quality is not lower than class B (second grade). The difference in grade is based on external defects of the board, their presence or absence.
  • Lining production. At this stage, a powerful four-sided planer is involved. Thanks to various milling cutters and knives, up to four planes are processed at a time, that is, the desired profiles are obtained in two minutes.
  • Quality control, placement and storage. This completes the process of obtaining lining in production. This is routine work and does not imply difficulty if available. necessary equipment. To preserve the qualities of lining, the correct creation of a place for storing this material is required. A dry, even room with a canopy installed, it is possible to use an ordinary film covered over the boards. It is important to ensure systematic ventilation.

It is advisable to install pallets in advance.

Where is the lining used?

There is no need to list all the positive aspects of lining. In building materials stores, it is the most popular material for decorative and finishing works with walls and ceilings, it is used both inside and outside. The lining is made from different types of wood, which is the reason for its further use. For example, linden or alder is used in sauna wall cladding due to its moisture-proof properties and resistance to sudden temperature fluctuations.

Spruce and pine lining is used mainly for interior decoration due to low humidity and stable temperatures from two to thirty degrees.

Necessary equipment

First you need to select and prepare a large and powerful machine for work. A second machine will be a practical acquisition. Due to the fact that even the most powerful machine will overheat after a certain period of time, allowing it to rest and cool down will be a mandatory working moment. A necessary characteristic of the machine is a power not lower than one kilowatt. It is required to perform two main functions - this is sawing and jointing, that is, leveling the wooden surface.

Giving preference to any model, focus on the presence of backlash- clearance, in places where parts are adjusted. A high-quality woodworking machine, for example, an American, does not exceed a width of fifteen to twenty centimeters. But the rulers and the cooling system should also be of high quality.

Do not give preference to a machine with an aluminum table and a ruler.

Aluminum tends to leave black marks on wood. It is possible to apply stripes to the finished product with a jigsaw. As a result, defects adversely affect appearance material after processing, and the finished lining must be painted when it was possible to get by with a colorless varnish. A specialized casing is designed for the operation of the saw, which is put on the base of the saw in order not to stain the wood when both the table and the ruler do not have protective devices.

You can make lining from alder manually, for example, with a milling cutter or on a circular saw. The milling method is better.

Made in this way homemade material has good technical performance.

Lining dimensions

First of all, you need to choose right size uncut board. The desired length is set based on the average length of the boards that you have at your disposal, and on the required length. Lining with a length of more than two meters is extremely difficult to process, in connection with this, this kind of length is economically unprofitable. But by and large, any length can be used properly.

The most unpretentious-looking board, which sometimes goes straight to the trash, can be transformed into a beautiful hand-made parquet. It will keep your pocket safe extra costs and will please your eye no worse than purchased in a store. Then you need to determine the width of the lining. With a narrow board, the lining will come out wide, that is, one lining - one board. At wide board- two narrow wagons.

Many experts argue that the use of lining with a width of seven to ten centimeters is much more practical. Do not forget that the lining that you use must be the same in width.

Quality material is produced, for example, by this method. like brushing.

Making lining with your own hands

Safety is the first thing worth mentioning. In no case is it recommended to wear clothes with decorative details. Comfortable simple robe without unnecessary elements - the best way. Wear protective goggles if possible. The saw should be in a special casing with a splitter, which will make it easier for you to cut and at the same time protect you when using the machine. Monotonous work often lulls the vigilance of the worker, and in this case there is a possibility of accidentally sawing not what was required. Therefore, be careful about overheating of the motor.

To do this, cut the boards in batches, first on one side, and only then take on the other.

The process itself begins with drawing straight lines, along which the sides of the boards will be sawn in the future. It is recommended to use green or of blue color, this is necessary so that the lines are clearly visible, in case the wood is damp and begins to turn blue. To cut the board, we lay it on the table top of the machine so that the previously marked lines are even. Place your body on the end of the board and push it straight onto the saw blade. Many people buy a saw wheel in order to simplify the sawing process, preferring circles with a large diameter.

At the same time, it is important to follow the board, it should not pinch the circle.

To cut the other side of the board, the machine must be reconfigured. To do this, set the ruler to the required width. The usual thing is to use two clamps to fix it during processing. Then the second side of the board is sawn according to the adjusted ruler; when sawing the side side without using the ruler, sawn ones under the ruler will appear at the exit. Put them away in separate place, they will be useful to us for rails.

For those who are interested in how to determine the width of the rails, the answer is simple, for this a sawn-off lining is placed, which will be used instead of a ruler.

It makes no sense to find out the width to a millimeter, since this will not affect the quality of the lining.

Board jointing

The board becomes even and smooth after the jointing procedure. This is an extremely important stage and requires no less attention and concentration. To do this, you need to reset the machine again. Boards are planed one after another, strictly on one side. Boards that have curled into a spiral during the planing process are immediately thrown away, because they are no longer subject to further use. To get even and uniform boards in width, count how many times you needed to pass the machine and repeat the same number with each new board, applying the same effort.

When working with the other side, slight differences in thickness will not be noticeable.

At the end of the processing of the board, it is required to make grooves. Get them using milling cutters or a small diameter saw blade, but you need to install it obliquely. It is worth using it only if you do not have cutters available, since the method is quite laborious, it requires additional setting equipment.

The first thing to do is to set up the ruler, to do this, raise and lower the table until you have set the required depth for the groove. After that, cut out the grooves on both sides of the board. There is no need to cut the grooves strictly in the middle of the board, making the groove a little closer to the surface - visually there is a feeling of a thinner lining than it really is.

Implementation of residues in reiki

Previously unsold boards set aside will be transformed into slats, which will be used to fix the lining during its installation. Being a docking material, the rail does not have to be the same length as the lining. The length in this case does not play a role, since the junction is hidden behind the lining. But the rail must be smaller than the groove.

Due to the curvature of the rail, it will be perfectly fixed in the grooves, in this regard, it is not planed, with a high-quality saw, the rail is quite smooth.

If appearance comes first for you, chamfer small boards on both sides. This will take a large amount of time. But having done this, the result will immediately be evident. The service life of the lining is approximately fifteen to twenty years. Provided that it is processed by a specialized protective agent from fungus, rot and insects, the durability of the lining increases significantly.

Produced lining at home will save your pocket from unnecessary expenses, will give the room a more aesthetic and attractive look. Do not forget that lining is a material with high rate thermal conductivity and is an environmentally friendly material, which means that at high temperature fluctuations it will not emit harmful toxic substances.

For more information on this subject, you can find out by watching the video below.

If interior view your home leaves much to be desired, you want to make repairs, but just sticking wallpaper is already boring and not at all interesting. Then great solution your problem will be lining the walls with clapboard. Do-it-yourself wall cladding with decorative boards will be an ideal creative solution for you, and using lining will reduce your time searching for materials for cladding. You can choose the materials for the repair yourself, you can either purchase the lining as a finished, processed board, or process it yourself, however, for this you will need at least minimal skills in this area, as well as a special jointing machine with which you can make such boards .

What are cutters for?

In order to sheathe walls, special boards alone will not be enough for you; in addition to them, you will need to purchase a manual router, as well as nozzles for it - cutters. The cutter is special nozzle for a tool, having any shape, on which teeth are applied, which, during rotation, have a mechanical effect on the object. These teeth can be used to cut various items, process them, grind and so on.

The current market has huge selection various nozzles, the main ones are:

  • terminal;
  • edging;
  • cylindrical;
  • disk.

Terminal

End mills for wood in many cases are of one-piece construction, composite types are rare. Such nozzles work mainly on the principle of the load produced on the wood by the side edge. In addition to forming joints on boards, end mills can be used for end milling, as well as creating complex patterns on wood.

edging

This type of cutter is the most popular among the craftsmen, these nozzles are designed to form the edge of the board. Due to the peculiarities of their structure, edge cutters can create an edge of various intricacies without going deep into the wood.

Cylindrical

This type is divided into several types:

  • conical - used to create carvings on wood;
  • spiral - needed for the manufacture of the edge of the board;
  • grooved - designed to create grooves different forms and types.

Disk

They are the most convenient for creating and processing facing boards (lining).

Disc cutters are used for different purposes:

  • for lining processing;
  • for processing panels;
  • for processing and grinding stone;
  • for metal;
  • specialized nozzles for various wooden products.

Cutters for manual work with clapboard, in turn, are divided into 3 types:

  • bearingless;
  • bearing;
  • edging.

In the manufacture of the board itself, you will need bearing or edge cutters, for detailed processing, bearingless nozzles are suitable, for which you will need to purchase specialized equipment.

The lining is a special board, which has a groove on one side and a tongue and groove on the other. Therefore, you will need two types of cutters, the function of each of them will be designed specifically for processing the board on one side. The difference between cutters can be the diameter of the shank, the size of which determines the power required for their use.

Each disc cutter has a standard design, it consists of:

  • the basis of the nozzle is the axis on which the entire main part is fixed;
  • two disks are attached to the axle from above, on which cutting knives are located;
  • The discs contain bearings.

The cutting teeth of the nozzle can be sharpened 3-4 times for reuse.

Milling machine

This is a machine with interchangeable nozzles. The milling cutter is mainly used for processing wood products, but with the purchase of additional equipment, it can also process plastic and metal. Such a machine has a rather small size for its functionality, it can be used for almost all purposes, from the manufacture of various parts to the processing of furniture and household items.

Milling tools are of various types:

  • upper;
  • edging;
  • lamellar.

The use of such a device is very convenient and functional.

Self-made lining

Step-by-step instruction for the performance of work.

  1. First you need to prepare or purchase even boards of the size you need. It is better to choose a length of no more than two meters in order to work with the material more conveniently. The width must be chosen and calculated independently (usually it is made 8-10 cm). When cutting boards, the remnants of the material do not need to be thrown away, they can be made into connecting rails.
  2. Then you need to qualitatively process the board, preparing it for work.
  3. After the board is completely processed, you can proceed to cut the tongue and groove. During this work, everything must be done clearly and measuredly, since the probability of doing something wrong at this stage is quite high. The board must be well and tightly fixed, the table on which the work will take place must be in a stable position. The depth of the groove and the width of the tongue must be constantly adjusted, since even with a minimum displacement, the board will be damaged.
  4. In some cases, it will not be possible to get by with a manual cutter, since in the production of, for example, a calibrated board, more sophisticated equipment will be needed - a thickness gauge.

Throughout the entire time of work, all safety measures must be observed, it is necessary to use protective glasses and gloves, since various types of injuries can be obtained at all stages of processing.

Choice of cutters for wood

When choosing cutters, you need to take into account all their features, firstly, it is desirable that the cutters be made with high quality, the quality guarantee in most cases is the brand, so it’s best to buy tools that have already been tested by time, such brands include Shtil tools. Secondly, it is necessary to be guided by the strength of the material from which the cutter is made, it must be selected based on what material this tool will need to work with. And, thirdly, it is necessary to choose the right type and type of tool that suits your type of work, for example, as mentioned above, a disk cutter is more suitable for working with lining.

Conclusion

Summing up, we can say that a person who is used to doing work with his own hands should have a set of all types of cutters for working with various materials and various details.

In our case, it can be noted that when performing facing work, all types of cutters are suitable, but for working with clapboard it is preferable to use disk cutters, which are different types, each of these types is necessary at different stages of work.

After all the work, you will receive not only a beautiful interior view of your home and a storm positive emotions, but also considerable savings, because when buying ready-made facing boards, you will have to spend almost twice as much as when purchasing a set of all the necessary tools and making the lining yourself.

How to choose cutters for lining, see the following video.

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Do-it-yourself wooden lining - 3 ways to make it yourself

Wooden lining is a sought-after finishing material with the only drawback: it is expensive. However, the high price is not yet a reason to refuse to use wooden lining, because if you wish, you can make the material for finishing the house yourself. I will tell you how do-it-yourself lining is made on affordable woodworking equipment.

What you need to know about the material

Clapboard is a solid wood board designed for cladding various building objects from the outside and for finishing the room from the inside.

Illustrations Varieties according to the method of fastening

Milled board with tenon-groove connection. This is the most common type of material. On one side of the bar there is a milled groove - a longitudinal recess, and on the other side there is a spike. During installation, the spike slides into the groove, and the mounting brackets also enter there. As a result, the lining is obtained with minimal gaps.

Tenon-groove connection (where the tenon is a separate element). In the manufacture of such a lining, a quarter is selected from the boards on both sides. Adjacent boards in the cladding are connected by a separate spike - a rail, which is inserted into the grooves.

Such a profile of the slats is typical for lining made in a handicraft way.


Edged board for laying with an overlap (American). Essentially, this simple board, processed with a circular saw and passed through a jointer.

The board is attached to the crate on top mineral wool nails. Nails are driven into the top of the board, and the next plank is installed on top of it. As a result, the cross section of the finish looks like a herringbone.

A significant advantage of such lining is its low cost due to ease of processing.

Illustrations Varieties by profile type (relevant for milled modifications)

Standard. The cross section is made in the form of a trapezoid. The angle of the edges of the trapezoid is 30-40 degrees. A distinctive characteristic is the small depth of the groove.

Europrofile. The profile "evrovagonka" is distinguished by accurate processing, an increased size of the spike and wide ventilation borders on the wrong side.

Calm. This is the same profile as the "standard", but the edges are not beveled, but rounded.

Block house. The board has a rounded surface that imitates a log. This is the most expensive profile of all the previously listed options.

How lining is done in production

Illustrations Stages of industrial production

Cutting logs into boards. The wood is sorted according to the degree of curvature of the logs. The least crooked logs with a minimum amount of rejects are fed to the sawmill, where they are cut lengthwise.

Drying. Lumber is dried.

There are several drying methods, including autoclaving and infrared processing. Regardless of the method of drying the wood, the final moisture content of the lumber should be 12%.

At the same stage, the blanks can be treated with antiseptic impregnations.


Profiling and trimming. At this stage, the lumber is driven through the machine for the manufacture of lining, which combines the function of a router and jointer. As a result, the board acquires the necessary profile. Also, the board is cut to length according to the standard.

Sorting. Finished lumber is sorted by class and type, and then packed.

Selection of production materials

In addition to wooden lining, plastic and MDF panels are on sale. Given the specifics of production processes, the only material that can be processed at home is wood.

The following requirements are imposed on the wood from which the lining is made:

  • Humidity within 12-18%. In the production of sawn timber before final processing are dried. This is done so that during operation the finished lining does not dry out and crack;
  • The absence of defects that will lead to damage to the wood. The presence of pigment spots on wood indicates the beginning of putrefactive processes that can adversely affect the operational life of the lining;
  • high density. The denser the wood, the more resistant to mechanical damage and decay will be the finished lining.

Which tree species meets the listed requirements? Given the attractive cost, it is preferable to use coniferous wood for the manufacture of lining. If the cladding board is made for rooms with high humidity, then the best option is to use aspen lumber.

Equipment for production in a home workshop

The choice of production tool depends on what exactly you decide to do. If you plan to make a board for overlapping, a circular saw and jointer will suffice. The same equipment is enough if you decide to make not grooves and spikes on the boards, but steps cut in half a tree, as shown in the photo.

If you plan to make a lining with a tenon-groove connection, in addition to a circular saw and a jointer, you will need a milling table with a cutter matched to the thickness of the longitudinal groove. To select a groove on a standard lining with a thickness of 20 mm, we select the thickness of the groove cutter 10 mm.

Is it possible to make a lining profile with a manual milling cutter? Theoretically, this is possible, but working with a router in your hands is more difficult than doing the same work on a milling machine.

Method 1: production of lining on a band sawmill

This method is traditional for the USA and Canada, where people who have the opportunity to buy timber inexpensively, with the help of band saw logs are cut into timber, and the timber, in turn, is sawn into boards with a beveled or rectangular profile.

This profile allows you to make wall cladding more accurate. Nevertheless, the task in the manufacture of lining can be simplified and the profile of the board can be made an ordinary rectangular one.

This technology does not imply mandatory grinding, since already in this form the board can be stuffed over the mounting frame. However, if a neater front of the house is needed, the finished planks can be passed through a jointer and made smooth.

Method 2: production of lining using a circular saw

On the initial stage from a bar or from an already finished edged board, blanks are cut with cross section 202×22 mm. A margin of 2 mm is left in order to drive the workpieces through the jointer and get boards with a section of 200 × 20 mm. Since the manufacture of the finishing material is done by hand, select the length of the blanks at your discretion.

During the manufacturing process, the workpieces are passed with their longitudinal side through the sawmill, so that at each edge a step is obtained half the thickness of the workpiece. The protrusions on one side and the other are mirrored, that is, on one side - at the top, and on the other - at the bottom.

The installation of such planks is carried out so that the board located on top, with a step, enters the board located below. As a result, moisture will not get behind the wood paneling.

Method 3: production of lining using a milling table

For the manufacture of lining on milling table you will need a planed board prepared in advance on a circular saw and jointer. All the following operations are performed on a milling table with the possibility of rigid fixation of the cutting tool and workpiece.

Illustrations Step-by-step instruction

Workpiece pressure adjustment. At this stage, adjustment is made in the horizontal plane. The workpiece moves close to the limiter and is fixed by clamps on the reverse side.

Installing and adjusting the cutter. The cutter is height adjustable on the spindle.

The installation height for the first and second cutters must be the same. Adjustment errors will make the lining unusable.


Workpiece processing. The workpiece is driven along the cutting tool of the milling machine, first with one side to form a groove, and then with the other side, with a preliminary replacement of the cutter to form a tenon.

Summing up

It is not difficult to make a lining for lining your house, the main thing is to have essential tool and follow the instructions provided. If at self-manufacturing lining there will be questions, ask them in the comments to the article.

May 14, 2018

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