How to make a concrete floor on the ground in a private house. How to make a concrete floor in a private house on the ground yourself How to make concrete floors on the ground

In private houses, floors are usually created directly on the ground, they are quite cheap and simple in design. Floors on the ground are equipped on the first floors of private houses with strip foundations, and clay, cement or concrete can be used to equip them. The most popular is the concrete floor on the ground. There are several reasons for this: firstly, concrete is publicly available, secondly, it is cheap, thirdly, a concrete floor has the greatest strength and durability, and, in addition, it is quite simple to make it. Work on the creation of such floors can be performed without special skills, the main thing is to know what and how to do.

Conditions for arranging a concrete floor on the ground

The device of the floor on the ground imposes certain requirements on the soils themselves. The soil must be dry, the groundwater level must be at a depth of at least 4-5 m, the soil must not be mobile. It makes sense to do a concrete floor on the ground in the case when the basement or basement is provided for in the project of the house. In addition, the house must be residential and heated during the cold period, because in winter the soil freezes, thereby increasing the load on the foundation and deforming the structure.

Concrete floor installation on the ground

Scheme of the device floor on the ground

We begin all flooring work after the walls have been erected and the roof has been built. This will ensure the quality of further work. The process of arranging the floor itself consists of the following steps:

• marking the level of the concrete floor;
• clearing and compacting the soil;
• laying gravel, sand and crushed stone;
• hydro and thermal insulation;
• reinforcement;
• installation of guides and formwork;
• pouring concrete, leveling and screeding the concrete floor.

Marking the level of the concrete floor

We outline the "zero" level of the floor

We set the level of the concrete floor to "zero" with the bottom of the doorway and apply it around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to put marks on the wall at a level of 1 m from the bottom of the doorway. Then transfer the marks to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room and measure from them and mark back 1 m down. The resulting line will be the “zero” level to which concrete must be poured. To make it easier to navigate, you can drive nails along this line in the corners of the room and pull a cord over them.

Clearing and compacting the soil

Now we start clearing and compacting the soil. First of all, we remove all construction debris in the room.

Then we begin to remove the top layer of soil.

The floor structure on the ground is a multi-layer "pie", about 30-35 cm thick. Therefore, we remove the soil layer until the total height from "zero" to the ground becomes equal to the thickness of the multi-layer "pie" structure.

Then carefully tamp the surface. This can be done using a special vibrating plate. But if it is not there, then we take an ordinary log, nail handles to it from above, and a board from below and begin to compact the soil. The challenge is to get an even and sufficiently dense base on which to walk and not leave indentations from the feet.

There may be such a situation when the soil level is below the declared 35 cm. In this case, it is necessary to remove a small part of the fertile layer, compact it tightly, fill in the sand to the required level and compact it.

Important! To increase the waterproofing of the concrete floor, a layer of clay and then sand can be laid on top of the native soil. Clay can be watered a little and compacted, it will prevent the penetration of groundwater.

Once the base layer is compacted, you can start backfilling the next one - it will be gravel. We fall asleep a layer of gravel with a thickness of 5-10 cm. We pour it with water and carefully tamp it down. To make it easier to control the thickness of the layer, we drive several rows of pegs of the desired height into the base soil and set them according to the level. After backfilling and tamping, the pegs can be removed.

We fill up the sand and ram

After gravel we fall asleep sand. We make the layer thickness about 10 cm and use the same pegs to simplify control. Sand is poured and compacted tightly. It should be noted that ravine sand with various impurities can be used for this layer.

On top of the sand we lay a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 40-50 mm. We carry out the compaction procedure. The resulting surface of crushed stone is sprinkled with a thin layer of sand, leveled and rammed. If crushed stone with sharply protruding edges is observed on the surface, then it should be removed or laid so that there are no sharp corners on the entire plane.

Important! The base base and all layers of the "pie" of the concrete floor must be aligned with the horizon. Therefore, at all stages of laying and compacting each layer, it is necessary to monitor the horizon with a level.

Waterproofing and thermal insulation of concrete floor

Concrete floor waterproofing can be done with polyethylene film

To create, you can use a polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns or waterproofing membrane. We lay out the waterproofing layer over all areas of the room, draw the edges a couple of centimeters above “zero”, put the sheets themselves into an overlap and glue them with adhesive tape.

To improve the thermal insulation qualities of a concrete floor, you can use various materials, each of which fits at a certain stage of work:

• expanded clay;
• Styrofoam;
• stone basalt wool;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• perlite;
• thick moisture resistant plywood;
• cork coating;
• roll isolon.

Floor reinforcement

You can reinforce the concrete floor with a frame of metal rods

To give concrete floor additional strength it must be reinforced. For this, a metal or plastic mesh, reinforcing bars or metal wire is used. The reinforcing frame must be laid on stands 2-3 cm high. So it will be inside the concrete floor and create a single whole with it.

Important! If we use plastic mesh, then we pull it on the pegs hammered into the base. A reinforcing frame made of reinforcement and metal wire can be welded independently, with certain skills.

Installation of guides and formwork

To facilitate the pouring of concrete and withstand the "zero" level, it is necessary to lay guides. We mark the room into equal segments up to two meters wide and divide them using guides. They are usually made from a board or a bar, the main thing is that the height of the guides be flush with the "zero" mark. We fix the guides themselves with a thick solution of cement, sand and clay.

We install the formwork for the concrete floor between the guides. It forms the so-called "maps", which are subsequently poured with concrete. This is done in order to simplify the filling process and maintain the "zero" level. For formwork we use moisture resistant plywood or boards.

Important! Guides and formwork must be brought to zero and leveled horizontally with a level in order to get a flat floor when pouring. We treat the formwork and guides with special oil to easily remove the boards from the concrete solution.

Pouring concrete, leveling and screeding the concrete floor

The concrete floor is poured in one, maximum two passes. This is necessary to create a monolithic and durable structure. To do this, you can order concrete at the factory, and it will be brought in large volumes, but if this is not possible, you will have to do everything yourself. Then you will need a concrete mixer and a shovel, cement grade M400 or M500, river sand, crushed stone and a partner.

To prepare concrete, we take 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone and 0.5 parts of water. We mix in a concrete mixer and use the resulting mixture to fill the floor. We start pouring from the opposite corner from the door. It is necessary to pour several “cards” in one or two times, then smooth and stretch the mixture with a shovel. For dense shrinkage of concrete, we use a special vibrator, which helps to compact concrete and fill all voids with it.

Set the rule on the guides and pull towards you

After filling out several "cards" we start drafting. To do this, we set a rule with a length of more than 2 m on the guides and pull it towards us. With its help, we remove excess concrete that fills the still empty "cards". In those "maps" where alignment was carried out, we take out the formwork and guides and fill the voids with concrete. As soon as the entire floor area is filled with concrete and leveled, it is covered with a film and allowed to stand for 3-4 weeks to harden. During this time, the surface is constantly moistened with water.

Filling the floor with self-levelling compound

At the final stage, we perform a screed of the concrete floor with a self-leveling mixture. This will smooth out all the minor flaws and create a perfect flat surface. We start from the opposite corner from the door. We apply a solution from a self-leveling mixture to the surface and stretch it using the rule. The resulting surface must be cured for 3 days.

The crown in creating a concrete floor on the ground will be laying floor covering, which, thanks to a carefully prepared base, will be strong and durable. The design of a concrete floor on the ground, due to its simplicity and reliability, can last for decades, the main thing when creating it is to follow the technology of pouring concrete.

When building private houses for arranging floors, two different technologies are often used. Usually, the floor is poured over the ground with a monolithic cement-sand screed or a log system is laid on a primed base and wooden flooring is mounted. Which option is better? When do experts recommend wood floors and when concrete? More about all this.

Existing Options

Concrete floor manufacturing

Very often, during the construction of a private house, ordinary earthen soils serve as the basis for the floor on the ground floors and in the basement. Floors in this case can be done in two ways:

1. Perform concreting.
2. Install the lag system and lay a wooden base on them.

The first type of floor is usually used in technical rooms - bathrooms, basements and garages. In the living rooms they make wooden flooring. It is possible to perform floor concreting in them only in warm regions. But in any case, for both options, the beginning of the floor arrangement will be the same. For both concrete and wooden bases, it is necessary to build a special substrate - without it, the floor construction on the ground will be of poor quality.

Features of concreting technology

The device of a concrete floor on the ground differs from other technologies in that the number of layers of backfilling depends on the level of groundwater flow. Before starting its installation, experts recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following recommendations:

1. Groundwater level measurement is mandatory. It is carried out by the method of spot drilling in several zones of the site.
2. If groundwater is closer than two meters from the bottom of the base, you will have to perform multi-layer backfilling and lay reliable waterproofing. If they are located below a two-meter level, there is no need to add crushed stone and river sand, which will be a big savings.
3. If it is planned to lay a warm water floor system on a concrete screed, a 2 cm temperature gap must be made between the walls of the house and the concrete screed. It will prevent cracking of the screed and its further damage.
4. If during subsequent operation concrete base it is planned to load it in excess of 200 kilograms per square meter, it will be necessary to perform additional reinforcement of the screed. For this, experts recommend using a metal wire with a diameter of 4 mm.

Concreting Options

There are several schemes for concreting on the ground.

Scheme with waterproofing

• The soil is compacted.
• A pillow of river sand 30 cm thick is laid out.
• Crushed rubble is poured on it.
• A polyethylene film is spread over the rubble, not thinner than 30 microns.
• Then roughing is done concrete screed.
• After it has completely dried, a layer of roofing material is laid on top.
• Next comes the heat-insulating material - mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam or expanded clay.
• Finishing reinforcing cement-sand screed is being carried out.
• The final floor covering is laid.
• The soil is compacted again.
• A pillow of cleaned sand is laid on top.
• Expanded polyethylene.
• Reinforced concrete screed is being made.
• The heater is installed.
• A clean floor covering is laid on it.
• The soil is compacted.
• Lined with polyethylene.
• The rough screed is laid.
• On top of it is a heater.
• Again reinforcing screed.
• Flooring.

Scheme used when the water table is low

Foundation and floor installation

Scheme without backfill

When building houses in the harsh Russian climate, experts recommend using the following scheme. Soil compaction -> construction of a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel -> waterproofing and insulation -> reinforcement -> concrete screed.

Installation steps

It is possible to start work and lay the concrete floor on the ground only when the walls are fully erected, the roof is already closed from above, and the weather conditions allow the screed to dry well. Work begins with measuring the base and installing markings. Using the building level, "0" is determined - the smallest point of the base. It is marked at the threshold from the bottom of the future doorway. From here it is necessary to go deep into the ground by a meter. From the found point, the base line will pass.

Note! A simple device will help to outline the perimeter of the zero mark. To do this, you need to use the level, drive nails into the corners of the perimeter and pull the cord between them.

After marking, you can proceed to the construction of the base, on which monolithic floors will lie on the ground.

Foundation preparation

Preparing the structure for pouring

First, all construction debris is removed and a layer of soil is removed to the zero mark. After 30-35 cm is removed, the exposed surface is compacted. This can be done with a vibrating plate or with an ordinary wooden pole, on the side of which handles are attached. Experienced craftsmen advise to pour the soil well with water to facilitate the process. After watering and tamping, the base should dry well. Therefore, it is better to carry out floor concreting in the summer. A sand and gravel cushion is laid on top of the finished site. A layer of gravel 30 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the base, carefully leveled and compacted again. Sand is laid on top of the gravel with a layer of 30 cm. It is also leveled, watered and well compacted.

Note! Wooden pegs help control the height of the backfill right size. They are placed at the corners of the perimeter. After backfilling the next level, the pegs are removed.

A layer of crushed stone 15 cm goes on top of the sand, and then a layer of sand 15 cm is again poured on top. When laying the layers, it is necessary to ensure that each lies in a strictly horizontal plane. The building level helps to control this.

Waterproofing and insulation

The next step is the installation of a protective layer and insulation. The film will prevent moisture loss from cement-sand mortar. And the insulation will not allow heat to leave the room through the floor. So this step should be taken very seriously. As a waterproofing, you can use an ordinary polyethylene film, but its thickness should not be less than 30 microns. This rolled material is overlapped on the base so that the polyethylene is 15-20 cm on the walls. The joints between the sheets of the film are fastened with construction tape. A heater is laid on top of it. It can be completely different materials. Most often, fine-grained expanded clay, basalt or mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam are used. Less often - cork, rolled isolon and perlite. And all because the last group of materials costs a little more than the first.

Reinforcement

double reinforcement

Concrete floors in the house, laid on the ground, must be strong and rigid. Reinforcement helps to make such a screed. If a metal mesh woven from a wire with a diameter of 4 mm is laid on top of the insulation, it will remain inside after pouring and become a reliable reinforcing layer. The mesh is attached with pegs.

Formwork installation

Before installing the screed, it is necessary to build a wooden formwork. It is made from an ordinary bar and is installed between special guides, clearly aligned with the building level. From correct installation formwork depends on the quality of pouring concrete. If the wooden elements are pre-treated with some kind of oil, then they can then be easily removed from concrete pouring.

Recipe for making concrete

After all preliminary work is completed, the process of pouring concrete begins. The solution is prepared according to the following recipe:

• One part cement.
• Two parts of well-cleaned sand.
• Four parts of small gravel.
• Half water.

From the listed ingredients, a homogeneous mixture is kneaded. It is immediately poured onto the floor and leveled by the rule. The process of pouring the floor must be continuous, so it is advisable to carry it out in several hands using a concrete mixer. After pouring the floor, the mixture that has not yet hardened is compacted with a vibrator. It removes voids that may occur in the solution. After pouring, the floor must be properly dried and the concrete allowed to gain strength. Unlike the described technology, wooden floors are laid in a completely different way. What? Let's figure it out together.

wooden flooring

Correct laying lag

It is necessary to lay wooden floors on the ground in such a way that a warm ventilated underground remains between the base of the floor and them. Its height may vary, but should not be lower than 15 cm and not higher than 20 cm. At a lower height, floor ventilation worsens, and at a higher heat loss increases. The easiest and cheapest way is to install wooden flooring on brick supports. Their installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

• A substrate is created and a concrete screed is made. On loose soil, it is better to build a substrate from crushed stone soaked in bitumen. It falls asleep 5 cm and is tightly compacted in the ground.
• Then markings are made indicating the location of the brick bedside tables, and the cement base is poured, on which it will then stand brickwork. After the final hardening of the screed, the construction of brick bedside tables begins.

Note! To create them, you can not use silicate brick and fake diamond.

• Two layers of roofing material are laid on top of the brick supports. They will provide the necessary waterproofing. Brick pedestals become supports for the log. wooden beam it is laid longitudinally, then fastened along the perimeter with transverse crossbars. Squares are attached between the magicians, which will become a support for the draft base.
• The subfloor is assembled from improvised materials, waste boards or plywood. A layer of vapor barrier membrane is spread on top. The entire underground is wrapped around it in such a way that even niches are formed between the lags. They fit any rolled insulation or slabs of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene. Expanded clay is often used as a heater. On top of the insulation is covered again vapor barrier film.
• The next step is laying wood flooring or plywood. Anything can be placed on plywood - laminate, linoleum, carpet.

Generalization on the topic

As you can see, the floor in a private house can be laid in different ways. Wooden flooring is used when the installation of a concrete base is not recommended. In what cases it is impossible to do concreting? When groundwater is very close to the ground. It is impossible to concrete the floor in places of increased seismic hazard, it is not recommended to make a cement-sand screed on loose soil and on soil with a large freezing depth. Concrete floor is good in technical rooms. Living rooms will be much warmer if wooden flooring is used. In the presence of all the above restrictions, it is better to use a system of wooden logs. We hope that such recommendations will help many to decide and choose the most suitable flooring technology for the ground.

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Concrete floor on the ground: features of do-it-yourself pouring technology

Most private houses, especially self-built ones, are built at minimal cost, and this is directly reflected in the design of the house. In particular, this approach affects the lack of basements- in the ground, a strip foundation is simply poured, along which walls are erected. Such construction is associated with one feature - the floor in such houses has direct contact with the ground, which simply obliges builders to make it not from wood, but from concrete. In this article from the site stroisovety.org, we will consider the question of how to pour a concrete floor over the ground - we will thoroughly understand this process and study all its subtleties.

How to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands

Concrete floor on the ground: how to prepare the base

Soil is such a thing that no matter how and no matter what it is covered with, moisture will constantly seep through it, this is due to the laws of nature. It is for this reason that it is necessary to start pouring the floor on the ground from the preparation of the base, and in particular from the manufacture drainage system. By the way, you need to think about it in advance and leave holes with a diameter of 100 mm in the foundation, through which moisture will be removed from the so-called underground. Holes in the foundation should be on each side of it - moreover, they also need to be made in the inner parts of the foundation. The height of these holes should match the level of the drainage layer.

Before its construction, the soil will have to be carefully compacted. Well, then everything is standard - first, sand is added, after which a layer of crushed stone of a fine fraction is poured, the thickness of which is about 200 mm. It is this bedding that will play the role of a drainage system designed to remove moisture from the underground. Crushed stone should completely cover the holes in the foundation - moreover, it should rise above it by at least 50mm. This must be taken care of even before filling, and if necessary, add soil under the future floor or whatever you have at the construction site in abundance. If you decide to fill up construction waste, then remember that it must be solid, and wood, drywall, plastic and other rubbish will rot and a hole will form, which has no place in the underground.

The device of a concrete floor on the ground photo

Before starting concreting, most experts recommend laying a dense film under the base. In my opinion, it is not needed - the waterproofing should be between the concrete and the screed. By itself, concrete will not suffer from moisture - the more it is under its influence, the stronger it becomes. I will not insist on the absence of a film - then decide for yourself. As I said above, it will not be worse from it, but it will not be better either.

Further, pouring the concrete floor on the ground involves the construction of a metal frame made of reinforcement - this step cannot be ignored. Reinforcement is made with reinforcement with a thickness of at least 10 mm - it is tied into a three-dimensional frame. From the outside, this process looks something like this - first, an ordinary flat lattice is tied to a 200x200mm cell, then small racks of 100mm each are tied to it. On these racks the next level of a flat lattice is linked.

Floor reinforcement photo

One thing should be understood here - the frame is not welded. Namely, it is knitted with soft steel wire. If welding is used for reinforcement, then the finished concrete base will be very rigid - the slightest movement of the soil will lead to cracks. And one more thing, if during the construction of the foundation you did not take care of its connection with the future floor, then you will need to drill into it and hammer in the reinforcement, which is linked to the floor frame.

When the frame is ready, they start pouring it with concrete - it is better to do this at a time, since the monolith is much stronger than concrete poured in parts. In principle, you can independently calculate the cost of purchased concrete with delivery - believe me, it will not be much more expensive. But you will get rid of the problems associated with its preparation and, most importantly, you will get a really monolithic and durable concrete base for the floor. Here you definitely will not miss the proportions. When you consider what is more profitable, consider everything - the cost of the ingredients, the cost of their delivery, and the work of making concrete, and even your spent nerves.

Do-it-yourself concrete floor on the ground photo

The filling itself is a simple matter in which only two factors need to be taken into account. Firstly, it is the shrinkage of concrete, which is construction site it is produced using a deep vibrator (renting this device for a day will not be so expensive) and, secondly, it is the control of the solidification process. The next day after pouring, the concrete must be thoroughly moistened with water and covered with polyethylene - the slower the drying, the stronger the surface will be.

Pouring a concrete floor on the ground photo

Also, do not forget about leveling - beacons are usually not used for constructing a concrete cushion. The screed makes the floor even. But if this is your first time encountering such concrete, then it is better to attach a level to the rule by which you will pull the concrete - at least it will give you the opportunity to bring the level of the concrete cushion as close to the horizon as possible. Yes, I completely forgot, the concrete cushion should have a thickness of 200 to 250mm.

The technology for manufacturing a concrete floor on the ground provides for the complete drying of the poured base. Forget about it for a couple of weeks and do other things - there are plenty of them during construction, so you won't be bored.

The final stage: how to make waterproofing and floor screed

These are the final stages, which are fully responsible for appearance and service life of decorative flooring. You need to start with waterproofing the concrete base - it is done as standard. First, the floor is cleaned of dust and dirt, primed and covered with a layer of bituminous mastic. After that, a rolled rubberized waterproofing is glued on it. I want to warn you right away - waterproofing a concrete floor on the ground should not be done with plastic wrap. The film is used only in apartments when pouring the screed, and then only in order not to flood the neighbors from below.

Having finished with the waterproofing device, it's time to think about floor insulation. At this stage, you need to lay polystyrene on top of the waterproofing, if you plan to install a warm floor, then a heat-reflecting screen is additionally mounted. Further reinforcement - it is cheaper to use a ready-made mesh with a cell of 100x100mm. If a warm floor is planned from heating, then a pipe is laid on top of the grid and beacons are installed after it, along which a cement-sand floor screed is poured. Do not forget to install a damper tape around the perimeter of the room, which will allow the screed to expand during heating without the risk of cracking.

Laying a concrete floor on the ground photo

The thickness of the screed poured over the foam must not be less than 50 mm - it must be allowed to settle well and gain strength. Just like a concrete base, the next day after pouring, the screed must be abundantly moistened and covered with polyethylene. After drying, when it turns white, it will be possible to ride on it even on a tank.

That's all that can be said about the question, how to make a concrete floor on the ground? As you can see, this technology is not much more complicated than ordinary street concreting, and they are distinguished only by the presence of waterproofing and the top layer of cement-sand screed.

stroisovety.org

How to make a concrete floor on the ground in a country house?

When arranging a concrete floor in a private house, the option of laying them on the ground with simultaneous insulation is most often chosen. This method makes it possible to obtain a durable monolithic screed, suitable for laying any floor covering, at medium investment and labor costs, and to prevent heat loss through the bottom of the building. All stages of work can be done with your own hands, the mandatory requirements of the technology include the correct alternation and sufficient thickness of the layers of the cake.

Features of floors on the ground

The design is a multi-layer cake, laid on dry and stable soil layers, taking into account a pre-measured level. The mandatory conditions for its construction include GWL below 4.5-5 m, the presence of an established foundation and constant heating. The standard scheme includes the following layers (from bottom to top):

1. Compacted soil, by analogy with monolithic slab accepting the main weight loads.

2. At least 10 cm of sand, which reduces the forces of frost heaving of the soil and performs drainage functions.

3. From 10 cm or more of compacted crushed stone and / or expanded clay, distributing weight loads and preventing subsidence and displacement of the remaining layers of the floor.

4. Flooring of waterproofing materials, combining two functions of protection: from capillary moisture and water loss when pouring the solution. In this case, it is the roll varieties that are laid with a mandatory overlap of 10 cm and above that have the optimal characteristics.

5. Draft base, which performs separating, bearing and protective functions.

6. An insulating layer of expanded polystyrene or stone wool.

7. Another waterproofing that protects from getting wet and extends the life of the cake.

8. Reinforced screed with a thickness of at least 5 cm, which performs the main load-bearing functions and serves as the basis for the installation of floor building materials.

The above scheme is the only possible one; pouring a concrete base over the beams is extremely difficult due to its massiveness. The resulting screed can withstand significant loads, including its own weight, the weight of furniture and ceilings, and is suitable for installation of any type of flooring: from self-leveling mixtures to light linoleum. More information about pouring concrete floors you can find here.

What to consider during the preparation stage?

The main requirement is the presence of a stable bearing layer; when building on sites with an unsuitable type, the expediency of sampling the soil and replacing it is considered. In other cases, the emphasis is on compaction and alignment. Work begins with markings - around the perimeter of the premises of a private house is marked zero level and the cord is pulled, after which the soil is removed to the desired depth (if necessary, on the contrary, it is poured). Chernozem or soils with a high organic content are recommended to be selected until stable layers are reached, loams and sandy loams are simply leveled. It is difficult to perform high-quality ramming without the right tool yourself, at this stage it is advisable to use a vibrating plate, in its absence, a log with a nailed handle is used.

Sand and gravel are poured in layers (from 10 cm each), ensuring the maximum possible shrinkage. On heaving and frozen soils, the thickness of the first layer is increased to 20 cm, under normal conditions 10-15 cm is enough. Sand is poured with water and compacted every 10 cm, its quality and grain size do not play a special role, but small and dusty varieties are not recommended.

The next layer is filled with dense crushed stone or gravel from a coarse fraction (20-40 mm, from 1000 kg / m3). Dolomite rocks are not suitable for it because of the low grade strength. By analogy with the sandy layer, this layer is carefully rammed (but without watering). In order to increase waterproofing properties it can be impregnated with liquid bitumen, heat-insulating - covered with expanded clay.

The preparation stage is completed by rough concreting - a thin layer of lean mortar with a strength grade within M100. There is no need for its careful smoothing, but air distillation is mandatory. The thickness of the layer in this case depends on the parameters of the soil and the expected loads and varies from 3 to 10 cm; when building on stable and dry soils, it can be replaced by pouring cement laitance over crushed stone; at the risk of frost heaving and significant weight of structures, the feasibility of reinforcing with metal is considered .

The nuances of thermal insulation and reinforcement

Given the high thermal conductivity of concrete surfaces, the presence of an insulating layer between them and the ground is mandatory. Suitable specifications have moisture-resistant varieties: foamed crumb or foam boards impregnated with hydrophobized compounds stone wool, granules of expanded clay or perlite. The thickness is determined by thermal calculation, in middle lane RF, the recommended minimum is 50 mm of extruded polystyrene foam, in the northern latitudes - at least 100. Insulation is placed above the flooring made of polyethylene film or roofing felt, with its sides protected from moisture. The second waterproofing layer is made of similar materials, with a 15-20 cm upward bend and fixation. The stage is completed by placing a damper tape or strips of polystyrene foam around the perimeter of the room and around the supporting columns, if any.

Reinforcing products are placed on top of plastic supports at a distance of 3-5 cm from the upper layer of waterproofing. A metal wire mesh with a cross section of about 3 mm and a mesh spacing of 5×5 has suitable characteristics. It is important to leave the plastic film or membrane intact; wetting of the insulation during the process is unacceptable. Simultaneously with the reinforcement, the installation of beacons is carried out: taking into account the future level and the recommended minimum screed thickness of 5 cm, on mortar or with welding to a fixed element.

As beacons, a T-shaped plaster or ordinary galvanized profile or even rods are used, the placement step depends on the length of the rule (10-15 cm less) and the experience of the installers.

Instructions for concreting

The most important stage is started after setting the composition under the leveling elements. Taking into account the high expected loads, a strength grade of at least M200 is needed, which does not form cracks after solidification. The recommended ratio of binder and filler is 1:3 (PC M400 or M500 and sand) or 1:2:4 (PC, sand, fine crushed stone, respectively), in case of doubt as components or the possibility of observing exact proportions, it is better to use ready-made dry mixes, in particular - sand concrete.

An important requirement is a monolithic screed, with a large amount of work it is extremely difficult to prepare and level the required amount on your own, the forces of at least two people are involved. In any case, the mixture is stirred mechanically (using a concrete mixer or mixer), and not with your own hands. Filling is carried out from a far corner, with simultaneous alignment and compaction of the resulting area. The process is completed by removing the beacons and carefully filling the gaps, then the surface is covered with a film and gains strength within 28 days with constant wetting in the first week.

Ideally, the thickness of each layer justifies the calculation; when choosing a heater, it is mandatory. The use of expanded clay when laying floors requires caution: at the risk of underflooding or constant dampness, it is prone to moisture accumulation and increases the strength of frost heaving. The only problem-free insulation is polystyrene: taking into account the pouring of concrete from all sides, its poor combustibility does not matter, with a minimum thickness of the layer, it effectively retains heat. In case of doubt in the GWL, a drainage system is placed around a private house.

To possible mistakes and technology violations include:

• Lack of compensatory materials around the perimeter of the room. Ignoring the laying of the damper tape leads to cracking of the screed during the thermal expansion of concrete.
• Filling at a groundwater level of less than 2 m on the surface, it will not be possible to provide reliable waterproofing in this case, dampness will penetrate inside a private house. The ideal occurrence is 4.5-5 m and below.
• The laying under the leveling beacons of materials subject to decay, this leads to subsidence of concrete floors during operation.
• The laying of an insulating layer below the zero mark in the absence of a heat-insulated base, such an error is fraught with the formation of a freezing zone.

On a strip foundation, it differs significantly in that various materials are used in its manufacture.

This floor has many layers. Layers go from the ground itself to the final coating. Before starting the installation, consider all the features.

Features of different flooring layers

In order for people to be comfortable indoors, any building must have a multilayer base.

The house where people will subsequently have to live must be approached with special attention, since the standard of living of people will depend on this.

Sole

In order to make floors on the ground that will correspond, it is necessary to start work with a quality foundation.

To begin with, half a meter, it is necessary to remove a layer of black soil and replace it with sand with a large fraction. A layer of sand is raised above the ground level and compacted with a vibrating plate.

In the process of sand compaction, its surface is poured with water. This is necessary for better shrinkage. You can also use soil to which gravel has been added.

Litter layer

This layer serves to distribute pressure on the base. After all, if one corner of the house sags, then disastrous consequences cannot be avoided.

In order to make a litter layer, pour five centimeters.

An innovation in the performance of this level is a profiled membrane, due to which the terms of work and the price are reduced.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary to protect against moisture, it is important to maintain the good condition of the flooring.

If not used, , , rot may form.

In the future, these adverse factors can destroy and disrupt the comfortable stay in the room.

Waterproofing materials

For waterproofing, the following materials are required:

• for the floor;
• fiberglass;
• Polyester;
• PVC membrane

The same alternative to the above materials is a polyethylene film three millimeters thick and double-folded.

thermal insulation

A large amount of heat escapes through the floor. To avoid heat loss, it is necessary to make a heat-insulating layer of special materials.

The following materials are used for thermal insulation:

• cotton wool;
• Polyurethane;
• Styrofoam;

The choice of insulation depends on your desire and finances.

A good solution would be to install a system (water or electric). Such a solution, however, will cost you a pretty penny, but a warm floor will allow you to save on heating in the future.

carrier layer

This layer is considered the most important support of the building.

Such a layer is reinforced concrete slab and it consists of B12 class concrete; steel mesh; crushed stone, ranging in size from 5 to 20 mm.

Leveling screed

Before the final coating, the floor must be leveled.

It is leveled with a cement-sand mixture and poured using beacons.

Finishing layer

For finishing, you can choose any material you like. For example:

Vinyl, parquet.

To choose the material of your choice, you need to understand the technical purpose of each layer of the floor. Then you can independently calculate the floor on the ground.

Do-it-yourself floor installation on the ground

The floor on the ground made of wood is different, this is achieved by raising the floor above the ground.

Installation instructions for wooden floor

Building a solid foundation

1. 5 cm of crushed stone is poured onto the ground and carefully tamped, then covered.
2. They expose beacons, then make a floor screed on the ground.
3. Next, let's install brick bedside tables over the entire area, with a distance of about 80 cm. The height of the supports is made approximately in the range of 15-20 cm, because if there are posts, with a lower height, air circulation will be less. And with a higher height of the columns, heat losses will be increased.
4. From high humidity, the ends of the columns are covered with roofing felt and make an overlap of 4 cm.
5. Logs are installed on the posts, the distance between them and the walls should be 2 cm. Plastic dowels and steel self-tapping screws are used as fasteners.
6. Wooden logs must be treated with antiseptic agents before use. Such measures will protect you from the invasion of pests.
7. Next, lay the boards and nail them. We check the slope of the boards with a level and, if there are any deviations, we remove them with an electric planer.
8. Nail heads must be masked with putty, then the boards are coated with a primer.

After all the procedures, the wooden floor is ready for the installation of the final layer, now it can be painted or coated. And also, if desired, the floor is equipped and insulated.

Instructions for the installation work of the concrete floor

This method is called suspended, because the soil acts as a formwork for the reinforced concrete slab. This design is considered strong and durable.

Pour the floor on the ground in the following steps:

1. Set the upper border for the fill, as a guide, select the doorway.
2. We compact a layer of gravel and then sand, due to this we get a filter pad.
3. We do insulation. As a material for vapor barrier we use a plastic film of 0.3 decimeters, it is laid in the base in two layers and overlapped on the walls.
4. We make a lattice of reinforcement to increase the strength of the screed.
5. Using dowels and screws, we install beacons.
6. Next, knead the solution, the ratio of ingredients should be 1:3.

Pour the finished mixture into strips, aligning with the beacons. After the concrete has hardened, the floor is insulated and the installation of the finishing layer begins.

In order to simplify the process of concreting, it is recommended to use a ready-made concrete-sand mixture.

Warming

Floor insulation is not an unimportant part of the floor construction on the ground. You can insulate the floor different materials. You can choose the material that suits your budget.

The main qualities that an insulating material should have are:

1. Low thermal conductivity;
2. Increased strength to external pressure;
3. Waterproof.

These qualities are possessed by several types of materials:

.
Enough cheap material. When exposed bituminous mastics foam is subject to destruction. It is recommended to cover it with plastic wrap on both sides.

extruded polystyrene foam.
More expensive and better than foam. It has strength, holds heat, better resists moisture.

Mineral wool.
Durable and warm material, but the minus of the material is that it absorbs moisture. Therefore, when concreting, it is better to protect this material from contact with the solution.

Expanded clay.
This material can replace gravel, screed and insulation.

When arranging a concrete floor in a private house, the option of laying them on the ground with simultaneous insulation is most often chosen. This method makes it possible to obtain a durable monolithic screed, suitable for laying any floor covering, at medium investment and labor costs, and to prevent heat loss through the bottom of the building. All stages of work can be done with your own hands, the mandatory requirements of the technology include the correct alternation and sufficient thickness of the layers of the cake.

The design is a multi-layer cake, laid on dry and stable soil layers, taking into account a pre-measured level. The mandatory conditions for its construction include GWL below 4.5-5 m, the presence of an established foundation and constant heating. The standard scheme includes the following layers (from bottom to top):

1. Compacted soil, by analogy with a monolithic slab, accepting the main weight loads.

2. At least 10 cm of sand, which reduces the forces of frost heaving of the soil and performs drainage functions.

3. From 10 cm or more of compacted crushed stone and / or expanded clay, distributing weight loads and preventing subsidence and displacement of the remaining layers of the floor.

4. Flooring of waterproofing materials, combining two functions of protection: from capillary moisture and water loss when pouring the solution. In this case, it is the roll varieties that are laid with a mandatory overlap of 10 cm and above that have the optimal characteristics.

5. Draft base, which performs separating, bearing and protective functions.

6. An insulating layer of expanded polystyrene or stone wool.

7. Another waterproofing that protects from getting wet and extends the life of the cake.

8. Reinforced screed with a thickness of at least 5 cm, which performs the main load-bearing functions and serves as the basis for the installation of floor building materials.

The above scheme is the only possible one; pouring a concrete base over the beams is extremely difficult due to its massiveness. The resulting screed can withstand significant loads, including its own weight, the weight of furniture and ceilings, and is suitable for installation of any type of flooring: from self-leveling mixtures to light linoleum. You will find more information about pouring concrete floors.

What to consider during the preparation stage?

The main requirement is the presence of a stable bearing layer; when building on sites with an unsuitable type, the expediency of sampling the soil and replacing it is considered. In other cases, the emphasis is on compaction and alignment. Work begins with markings - a zero level is marked around the entire perimeter of the premises of a private house and a cord is pulled, after which the soil is removed to the desired depth (if necessary, on the contrary, it is poured). Chernozem or soils with a high organic content are recommended to be selected until stable layers are reached, loams and sandy loams are simply leveled. It is difficult to perform high-quality ramming without the right tool yourself, at this stage it is advisable to use a vibrating plate, in its absence, a log with a nailed handle is used.

Sand and gravel are poured in layers (from 10 cm each), ensuring the maximum possible shrinkage. On heaving and frozen soils, the thickness of the first layer is increased to 20 cm, under normal conditions 10-15 cm is enough. Sand is poured with water and compacted every 10 cm, its quality and grain size do not play a special role, but small and dusty varieties are not recommended.

The next layer is filled with dense crushed stone or gravel from a coarse fraction (20-40 mm, from 1000 kg / m 3). Dolomite rocks are not suitable for it because of the low grade strength. By analogy with the sandy layer, this layer is carefully rammed (but without watering). In order to increase the waterproofing properties, it can be impregnated with liquid bitumen, heat-insulating - covered with expanded clay.

The preparation stage is completed by rough concreting - a thin layer of lean mortar with a strength grade within M100. There is no need for its careful smoothing, but air distillation is mandatory. The thickness of the layer in this case depends on the parameters of the soil and the expected loads and varies from 3 to 10 cm; when building on stable and dry soils, it can be replaced by pouring cement laitance over crushed stone; at the risk of frost heaving and significant weight of structures, the feasibility of reinforcing with metal is considered .

The nuances of thermal insulation and reinforcement

Given the high thermal conductivity of concrete surfaces, the presence of an insulating layer between them and the ground is mandatory. Moisture-resistant varieties have suitable characteristics: foamed crumb or foam plastic slabs, stone wool impregnated with hydrophobized compounds, expanded clay or perlite granules. The thickness is determined by the heat engineering calculation, in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, the recommended minimum is 50 mm of extruded polystyrene foam, in the northern latitudes - at least 100. Insulation is placed above the flooring made of polyethylene film or roofing felt, with protection on the sides from moisture. The second waterproofing layer is made of similar materials, with a 15-20 cm upward bend and fixation. The stage is completed by placing a damper tape or strips of polystyrene foam around the perimeter of the room and around the supporting columns, if any.

Reinforcing products are placed on top of plastic supports at a distance of 3-5 cm from the upper layer of waterproofing. A metal wire mesh with a cross section of about 3 mm and a mesh spacing of 5×5 has suitable characteristics. It is important to leave the plastic film or membrane intact; wetting of the insulation during the process is unacceptable. Simultaneously with the reinforcement, the installation of beacons is carried out: taking into account the future level and the recommended minimum screed thickness of 5 cm, on mortar or with welding to a fixed element.

As beacons, a T-shaped plaster or ordinary galvanized profile or even rods are used, the placement step depends on the length of the rule (10-15 cm less) and the experience of the installers.

Instructions for concreting

The most important stage is started after setting the composition under the leveling elements. Taking into account the high expected loads, a strength grade of at least M200 is needed, which does not form cracks after solidification. The recommended ratio of binder and filler is 1:3 (PC M400 or M500 and sand) or 1:2:4 (PC, sand, fine crushed stone, respectively), in case of doubt as components or the possibility of observing exact proportions, it is better to use ready-made dry mixes, in particular - sand concrete.

An important requirement is a monolithic screed, with a large amount of work it is extremely difficult to prepare and level the required amount on your own, the forces of at least two people are involved. In any case, the mixture is stirred mechanically (using a concrete mixer or mixer), and not with your own hands. Filling is carried out from a far corner, with simultaneous alignment and compaction of the resulting area. The process is completed by removing the beacons and carefully filling the gaps, then the surface is covered with a film and gains strength within 28 days with constant wetting in the first week.

Ideally, the thickness of each layer justifies the calculation; when choosing a heater, it is mandatory. The use of expanded clay when laying floors requires caution: at the risk of underflooding or constant dampness, it is prone to moisture accumulation and increases the strength of frost heaving. The only problem-free insulation is polystyrene: taking into account the pouring of concrete from all sides, its poor combustibility does not matter, with a minimum thickness of the layer, it effectively retains heat. In case of doubt in the GWL, a drainage system is placed around a private house.

Possible errors and violations of technology include:

• Lack of compensatory materials around the perimeter of the room. Ignoring the laying of the damper tape leads to cracking of the screed during the thermal expansion of concrete.
• Filling at a groundwater level of less than 2 m on the surface, it will not be possible to provide reliable waterproofing in this case, dampness will penetrate inside a private house. The ideal occurrence is 4.5-5 m and below.
• The laying under the leveling beacons of materials subject to decay, this leads to subsidence of concrete floors during operation.
• The laying of an insulating layer below the zero mark in the absence of a heat-insulated base, such an error is fraught with the formation of a freezing zone.

There are many options for flooring in a private house. One of them is flooring on the ground - a multilayer structure that serves as a universal basis for any finishing materials.

The device of the base in this way has its pros and cons. Of the positive properties, the following can be noted:

1. A wide range of heaters helps to prevent heat loss of the structure.
2. The temperature of the soil located under the multi-layer floor structure never drops below zero.
3. The load is distributed to ground base- there is no need to make complex calculations.
4. No moisture or mold.
5. The resulting subfloor can be lined with any floor material.
6. Excellent soundproof properties.
7. Fast and uniform heating of the room when installing water or electric heat carriers inside the screed.

There are also disadvantages:

1. The dismantling of the structure for the purpose of repair, especially if the floor heating pipes are damaged, is a time-consuming and financially costly process.
2. It is impossible to arrange such a floor with close passage of groundwater to the surface of the earth and loose soil in composition.
3. The construction of such a design belongs to the category of expensive and taking a lot of time and effort.
4. A significant reduction in the height of the room.

Features of the floor on the ground

The floor on the ground is a multilayer structure. Its features and properties are directly related to the quality and characteristics of the soil. The main requirement is related to groundwater, which should be located below 5 m from the surface of the earth. This will eliminate the mobility and swelling of the soil masses.

Forming a flat, hard surface for laying decorative flooring is the main task. It can also be used to easily create a floor slope for natural water drainage in the bathroom and shower on the first floor, bath or sauna.

The depth of soil freezing and the seismic activity of the construction region are also important.

Construction conditions

Reinforced monolithic concrete slab, which is a floor system on the ground, is made on a sand-gravel compacted base. Ballast bedding forms the base and cover of the required height and transfers the load from the slab to the ground.

The cost of measures to protect the slab from moisture depends on the depth of the passage of groundwater. With a depth of 3 meters and more problems will not arise.

To protect the structure from below from the effects of moisture and heat loss allows a layer of heat and waterproofing, laid on a supporting base. The soil can be protected from frost heaving by cutting off the cold bridge, which causes moisture to freeze. To do this, the basement of the house from the outside is insulated with the help of sheet foam.

Requirements for the height of the floor relative to the strip foundation

There are no special requirements for choosing the height of the floor structure relative to the foundation tape. The only parameter to be considered is the location front door and the zero mark of the floor relative to it. It is important to avoid a serious difference in the height of the porch and the floor interior, providing for this nuance at the design stage.

With the correct manufacture of the doorway at the stage of pouring the tape support, the manufacture of the floor on the ground boils down to the fact that its top, taking into account the finishing layer, must coincide with the level of the threshold.

In the process of pouring strip foundation it is already necessary to have an idea about the location of the doorway and its parameters.

Material selection

A rough screed with a thickness of about 8 cm is poured over a layer of polyethylene film, and two more layers of polyethylene are overlapped on top of it to create waterproofing. At this stage, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection of polyethylene sheets to each other.

A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, it involves a large number of works associated with its creation. Features of the device and a calculator for calculating the amount of ingredients for a floor screed solution can be found in

The multilayer construction involves the sequential laying of layers: sand, and crushed stone or expanded clay on top. After that, a footing, protective layers and a finishing screed are formed, which will serve as the basis for the finishing material. If the soil is too wet, then it is recommended to refrain from using expanded clay because of the ability of the material to absorb excess moisture and change its shape under its influence.

Sand and gravel in this design protect the room from moisture. At the same time, both layers are carefully tamped, and the crushed stone is treated with bituminous mastic.

The heat-insulating layer is created using the following materials (optional):

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool
• foam glass;
• Styrofoam.

At the final stage, a reinforced finishing screed is laid. It is important to make it as even as possible, so the solution is poured along the beacons, controlling the process with the help of measuring instruments (level).

Requirements for the type of foundation

The presence of a foundation does not affect the properties of the floor on the ground, only the nature of its interaction with the main structural element of the building changes.

Depending on the type of foundation - tape or column, the method of adjoining the floor system depends.

Columnar supports are arranged in such a way that the floor is in contact with the grillage, if it is low or located under it.

When the grillage is high, the resulting gap between it and the floor is closed during the pouring process with the help of boards and left inside the structure.

Concerning slab foundation, then it is a floor structure resting on a soil base. The device of the floor on the ground, subject to the existence of a strip foundation, is carried out in such a way that the floor is adjacent to its inner wall.

Types of structures

Regardless of the type of floor construction on the ground, it consists of several main layers.

Table 1. Floor construction

floor construction	Laying process
	2. Pour a sandy layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 6. Lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt. 7. Lay a layer of insulation. 8. Fill in the finishing screed. 9. Lay the finish coat.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Pour a sandy layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 4. Lay a layer of polyethylene. 5. Fill the footing. 6. Lay a layer of insulation. 7. Pour the solution. 8. Lay the finishing material.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Pour a sandy layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 4. Spilled from above with a liquid concrete solution. 5. Lay a layer of insulation. 6. Pour the solution. 7. Lay the finishing material.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Lay a layer of polyethylene. 3. Fill the footing. 4. Lay a layer of insulation. 5. Fill in the finishing screed. 6. Lay the finish coat.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Fill and compact the sand layer. 3. The crushed stone layer is poured and compacted. 4. Fill the footing. 5. Lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material. 6. Lay a layer of insulation 7. Fill in a finished reinforced screed (without a gap) with coolants. 8. Lay the finish coat.

Nuances to consider

The design of the floor is selected depending on the conditions of its operation. There are several leading factors:

1. The level of operational loads. If they are over 200 kg, then the reinforcing mesh should have a bar diameter of 4 mm, if the load is less than the specified value, then 3 mm is sufficient.
2. The distance from the earth's surface over which groundwater flows. It is recommended to take the highest value into account (during floods or seasonal snowmelt).
3. The purpose of the design is with heat carriers (the "warm floor" system) or conventional. A floor with a water or cable heat carrier involves a 2 cm gap between the finished concrete coating and the wall along the perimeter of the room. The lower layers are adjacent to the walls.

Now in the construction market there are several varieties of "warm floors". They differ in the type of coolant and work efficiency. How to choose a warm floor? We'll tell you in

Question answer

Table 2. Most popular questions

Question	Answer
Is it suitable broken brick and construction debris as a replacement for crushed stone in the bedding layer	Chipped brick will not cope with the protection of the slab from moisture. They are also not suitable as a leveling backfill because of the difference in the size of individual elements that are not subject to high-quality tamping and do not ensure the normal operation of the entire floor structure.
Is it possible to abandon the mesh for reinforcement and replace it with unrelated bars	Reinforcement will only “work” correctly when using rigidly fixed bars that form 10 x 10 cm grid cells.
Is it possible to use expanded clay in bedding instead of crushed stone	Expanded clay is not suitable as a material that protects the floor from below from the capillary action of moisture, since it itself absorbs moisture and changes under its influence. Although as a leveling layer in dry ground, this lightweight, inexpensive material is quite suitable and can replace gravel.
Is it possible to perform pouring instead of a footing device	If the purpose of laying crushed stone and sand is to create a layer that prevents the passage of moisture, then spilling will prevent the crushed stone from coping with its function.
Can polyethylene under the rough screed replace the waterproofing layer	No, since this layer is technological, protecting the bedding from cement laitance.
Is it possible to refuse screed reinforcement	No. This process can be abandoned only when the footing is installed.
Is it possible to refuse to perform the footing, and lay the waterproofing and insulating layer directly on the bedding.	Lay the waterproofing layer on a flat, solid base - this allows you to extend its service life. The same applies to the laying of insulation, which must be fixed motionless and not provoke the formation of cracks on the floor surface.

Features of heat and waterproofing

The role of the thermal insulation layer is as follows:

1. To reduce or eliminate heat loss.
2. In protecting the structure from moisture coming from the ground.
3. In the soundproofing of the room.
4. In the exclusion of the process of vaporization.
5. In creating optimal microclimatic indicators.

When installing a simple floor on the ground, it is possible to use a conventional plastic film. The process goes like this:

1. When laying polyethylene (150 microns) on a finished, compacted base, the film sheets are overlapped (15-20 cm) and the joints are carefully glued with adhesive tape. The edges along the perimeter of the room lead to the walls to a height of 10 - 20 cm. To be sure of the reliability of the waterproofing layer, the film laying procedure can be done twice, carefully fixing the material each time.
2. The thickness of the insulation (foam or expanded polystyrene) should not be less than 10 cm. Due to the fact that the foam is afraid of moisture, it is protected from both sides in the manner described above.
3. A reinforcing mesh with 10 x 10 cm cells and a wire diameter of 3 mm is laid on top of the insulation.
4. After that, the screed is poured to a height of 5 cm.

Important! Do not neglect the external insulation of the foundation, the blind area and the organization of water drainage from the basement.

This way of organizing the floor has its pros and cons. Of the positive qualities, the following can be noted:

1. Suitable for most soil substrates.
2. High-quality insulation of the foundation increases its resistance to the load during frost heaving of the soil.
3. The consumption of the solution is less than with the construction of a slab foundation.
4. This floor is durable.
5. No need to perform additional insulation pipes and other communications passing in the floor structure.
6. Suitable for laying finishing material.
7. There is no need to create high-quality ventilation of the underground space.

The disadvantages include the fact that the cost of work may increase with the construction of a high base.

The location of the reinforcement in the screed array depends on the presence of coolants in it. If it is a warm floor, then the reinforcing mesh is placed above the pipes and about 3 cm of the screed layer is provided on top. In an ordinary floor, the mesh is placed approximately in the middle of the screed array (3 cm to the top).

Manufacturing technology

Before proceeding with the pouring of the floor, it is important to carefully prepare the base, consisting of several layers. The main recommendations are to use a fine-grained filler in the concrete mix and lay it on the lighthouses in one go.

Underlayment

This layer consists of a compacted sand cushion and crushed stone bedding (fraction 30-50 mm) with a height of 7 to 10 cm each. The purpose of this layer is to protect the bottom of the slab from moisture from the soil and as a leveling base.

The features of the soil that must be considered before proceeding with the installation of the floor include the following:

1. It is important to remove the vegetation layer of the soil when preparing the base. Otherwise, due to shrinkage, the concrete structure will simply collapse.
2. Sand is used when groundwater is low to the surface, as it is able to absorb moisture.
3. When using crushed stone on wet soil, capillary rise of moisture is excluded.

Important! You can replace the footing if the crushed stone layer is leveled with sand so that the waterproofing film laid on it is not damaged. Previously, cement milk is used to pour the underlying layer.

To reduce the cost of work and get a quality result at the stage of preparation and design, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:

1. After laying the finishing material, the level of the finished floor must match the level of the threshold of the entrance opening.
2. It is necessary to prevent the floor screed from resting on fragments of the plinth or foundation that protrude from the internal walls.
3. In the process of tamping the sandy layer, it is irrigated, and not spilled through with water.

Underlayment and waterproofing

The purpose of the waterproofing material is to prevent the insulation and screed from getting wet due to moisture.

1. When guiding bituminous roll materials, two layers are created. The overlap is at least 15 cm with a perpendicular arrangement.
2. When using a film, the direction of gluing the sheets does not matter. The main thing is to overlap and carefully seal the joints.
3. The EPDM membrane is laid in one layer.

The device of a footing with a height of 5 to 10 cm allows you to make an even and rigid base for a waterproofing layer (sticking a film, fusing bitumen). Otherwise, when using rolled bituminous materials or PVC film, their laying becomes much more complicated due to the divergence of the joints on loose ground.

Important! To create a rough screed, it is possible to use lean concretes, in which the cement content is minimal. It is not necessary to reinforce this layer. Under the ban, rigid fixation of a rough screed with a foundation and a plinth.

Insulation laying

As a damper layer, strips of insulation or a tape of the same name are used. Tape sticks directly to inside foundation or plinth around the perimeter of the room.

The thickness of the insulation (from 5 to 15 cm) is taken in accordance with the operating conditions in the construction region.

Being, in fact, an overlap, the floor on the ground is not fixed rigidly to the walls of the room. Therefore, it has the following qualities in the field of insulation:

1. The places of contact between the floor and the base, due to the presence of the lower insulated layer, are completely protected from heat loss.
2. With the help of a damper layer installed along the perimeter of the room between the screed and the wall, the room can be protected from vibration and noise.
3. Sealing and leveling work, which is required when laying the slabs, will not be required in this case.
4. The advantage is the lack of free space (subfloor) under the floor structure.

A floating screed involves, before pouring the solution, the establishment of utility lines in the room - heating, cold and hot water supply, sewerage.

It is important to understand that input nodes when similar design floors have zero maintainability. Therefore, in order not to resort to the destruction of the screed, the risers are laid inside pipes of a larger diameter, so that it is possible to perform timely replacement or cleaning of pipes.

Concrete pour options

Plaster beacons or metal profiles, which are used when pouring the mortar, can increase the productivity of the work performed and obtain a high-quality coating.

The peculiarity of the work is that it is impossible to walk on the reinforcing mesh in the process of pouring the floor, so there are two ways to perform the work.

When pouring the solution from the far corners of the room towards the door, the reinforcing mesh inside the concrete is given the necessary level of rigidity, so the free sections of the reinforcement do not move. This method is called "tracks".

Movement around the pouring area can be carried out with the help of ladders - suitable supports made of bricks or timber installed in the cells of the grid, on which the boards rest.

After 3 days, you can make finishing gender.

Prices for reinforcing mesh for screed

reinforcing mesh for floor screed

Video - Do-it-yourself floors on the ground