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How to insulate and sheathe the walls of the garage. Protection of the garage from severe frosts

When warming a room that is heated only from time to time with the help, it makes sense to lay heat-insulating materials from the inside. In this case, it will be easier to heat the garage: after all, the thermal insulation warms up much faster than dense walls. However, in this case, the dew point will shift inside the room, and condensation will quickly form in it, so it is imperative to provide a reliable ventilation system in the garage.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Most often used to insulate a garage Styrofoam. This lightweight material is inexpensive, not afraid of moisture, it is easy to cut and mount. However, its service life is not too short - 15-20 years. It has foam and a fairly high degree of water absorption (up to 7%). For finishing the walls of the garage, you should select the material brand PSB-S (self-extinguishing). The numbers in the marking (15, 25, 35 and 50) indicate the density of the foam. For gluing the internal walls of the utility room, it is enough to take a material with a density of 15-25 kg / m³.

If you choose a heat insulator in terms of price-quality, it is better to purchase extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, it is a type of foam, and their compositions are almost identical. However, during the extrusion process, this material acquires greater strength. It has both a lower degree of moisture absorption and a longer service life. Nonflammable or low flammable materials are labeled NG and G1.

Styrofoam granules and the structure of extruded polystyrene foam

Important! Mineral wool absorbs moisture very quickly and in conditions of high humidity it will be just a hotbed for fungus and mold, so it is better not to use it to insulate the garage or provide ideal waterproofing from foil or film for it.

Mold in mineral wool

Advice. If a cellar is provided for storing crops in the garage, mice and rats will very quickly settle not only in foam plastic, but in almost any heat-insulating material (except, perhaps, ecowool and foam concrete), and part of it will be used by them to build nests. Rodents do not make nests in extruded polystyrene foam, but they can easily gnaw through it. Therefore, if rodents have bred in the area, you should look for ways to deal with them.

Installation of foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Main steps

The installation of polystyrene foam and polystyrene is identical. For wall insulation, foam sheets 35-50 mm thick or extruded polystyrene foam 20-40 mm thick are selected. They are glued in one layer.

1. The old finish is removed from the walls: paint, crumbling plaster, etc. The surface is carefully cleaned from dirt and dust.
2. In order to prevent mold and fungus from forming under the thermal insulation layer in a humid room, it is advisable to cover the wall and the wooden crate with any antifungal composition or primer with an antiseptic.

Wall treatment with antifungal compound

3. To increase the adhesion of the wall to its material primed. If you pick up a primer with an antiseptic, it will no longer be necessary to cover the surface with an antifungal compound.
4. Adhesives based on acetone, esters and other aggressive substances are capable of dissolve foam and polystyrene foam. Therefore, you should choose adhesives that include plasticizers, composite mixtures or bitumen. These materials can also be glued using inexpensive cement-based compounds.
5. Extruded styrofoam has a smoother surface, so it can be treated to increase adhesion to the wall needle roller or iron brush.
6. To prevent the sheets from sliding down, start sticking them from the bottom and gradually move up. For support along the bottom of the walls is installed plinth profile.

The starting profile is attached to the bottom of the wall

7. To give the sheathing strength, laying is carried out in a checkerboard pattern, closing the vertical joints of the previous row.
8. The adhesive composition is applied with a spatula over the entire surface or in a thicker layer only along the edges and in the center of the sheet.

Glue application

9. For additional fixation apply dowels with a wide plastic cap ("umbrellas") that do not damage these soft materials. Fastening is carried out at the corners and in the center of the sheet.

10. To remove cold bridges, it is advisable to seal the joints between the sheets with foam.

Sealing with foam

Advice. If a small air gap is left between the wall and the insulation, as well as between the insulation and the sheathing, the problem of removing condensate will be solved. To do this, the heat insulator and sheathing are attached to a wooden or metal crate. Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene is attached to the crate using liquid nails. To fix the metal profile, special connectors are used.

Air gap

To protect against condensate, it is better to fix foam or polystyrene foam on the crate

Drywall in wet rooms use is not recommended. For finishing the walls of the garage, it is better to use lining or fiberboard. Since the foam and polypropylene have insufficient strength, their plastering is carried out only outdoors.

Important! Expanded polystyrene should not be left unfinished: under the influence of ultraviolet rays, it, like polystyrene, quickly collapses and loses its thermal insulation properties.

The requirements for the insulation of the garage are not as stringent as for the insulation of residential premises. But still they are. Thermal insulation should provide an optimal microclimate in the room for normal conditions car storage.

What temperature should be in the garage?

Many motorists believe that the temperature in the garage should be comfortable for a person. However, it is not. Optimal parameters: the minimum temperature should not fall below +5 °C (in winter) and rise above +20 °C (maximum). At the same time, the smaller the difference between the external and internal temperatures, the less likely the appearance of "evaporation", condensate on the car and its subsequent corrosion.

Some owners close the vents to increase the temperature in the garage. It is strictly forbidden to do this, because. ventilation is responsible for the output carbon monoxide, inflow and purification of air, prevents the appearance of dampness. Plain natural supply and exhaust ventilation remove such negative effects.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage from the inside and outside

Consider how to insulate a garage, from different positions and using different materials.

1. From the position of the location of the insulation

This is an important aspect, because Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. Pros and cons of thermal insulation from the outside (from the street) and from the inside (with inside), comparing when which method is justified or appropriate.

Outside garage insulation

Benefits of outdoor insulation:

reduces the likelihood of freezing of the walls of the garage. The freezing point is shifted towards the insulation. Among other things, this increases the life of the walls themselves;
the risk of condensation is reduced;
a favorable environment for the development of fungi is eliminated;
the area of the premises remains unchanged;
there is no need to dismantle the shelves and take everything out for work;
the harmful effects on humans of fumes from heaters are excluded;
cost and labor intensity are reduced.

Garage insulation from the inside

This method is used when:

there is no possibility to perform external (external) insulation. For example, a garage is located in a block, i.e. located between other garages and has walls in common with them;
there is no possibility or desire to dismantle the shelves inside the room;
sprayed heat-insulating material (polyurethane foam, polyurethane foam or penoizol) will be used as a heater. With a minimum thickness, sprayed thermal insulation does not affect the usable area and, due to excellent adhesion to the surface, prevents the appearance of condensation on walls and ceilings.

Disadvantages of internal insulation:

reduction of the usable area of the garage;
displacement of the freezing point inside the room, at the junction of the insulation to the wall. The result is the gradual destruction of the walls of the garage.

Thus, if possible, it is better to give preference to the external method of insulation.

2. From the position of the applied insulation

Considering how to insulate a garage, you may encounter a number of materials that have similar or different properties, but are recommended for thermal insulation work.

What is the best garage heater?

Insulation requirements:

hygroscopicity. Regardless environment the material must fulfill its function. And, as you know, wet insulation loses its thermal insulation ability. Of course, it is possible to provide additional protection to any material, but this will affect the estimate of the work;

thermal conductivity. The lower this figure, the longer the heat will stay in the garage;

thermal inertia. Shows how quickly the room cools down. The thermal inertia index is inversely proportional to the thermal conductivity;

Fire safety. Insulation should not support combustion;

price. If the goal is to insulate the garage inexpensively, then you need to pay attention to this parameter. Moreover, it is worth starting not from the cost of insulation (cheap does not always mean bad), but from the total amount of expenses, which include other materials, tools and wages;

ease of processing and installation.

Several thermal insulation materials meet these criteria.

Table of thermal conductivity of heaters

Styrofoam insulation for the garage

The most common option that allows you to relatively cheaply provide thermal insulation of the garage. The leading position of the foam was provided by: low price, hygroscopicity, excellent thermal insulation properties, low weight, availability, ease of installation. Among the disadvantages: combustibility, exposure to ultraviolet radiation, the ability to crumble. The styrofoam needs protection.

Garage insulation with polystyrene foam

It is an improved version of foam. The main component of expanded polystyrene is styrene with the addition of blowing agents. Extruded polystyrene foam does not support combustion, is hygroscopic and has excellent thermal insulation performance. In addition, it is not a medium for the development of bacteria and withstands exposure to some chemical reagents. However, it can be harmed by petroleum products, alcohol and organic solvents.

From the point of view of installation, expanded polystyrene is also preferable, because. due to the dense structure, it is more convenient to use and has a reliable tongue-and-groove connection system, which reduces the area of cold bridges. A relative disadvantage can be considered a higher cost than that of polystyrene. One of the patented trademarks of expanded polystyrene is Penoplex (heat-insulating boards made of foamed polystyrene Penoplex). Insulating a garage with foam plastic has the same advantages and disadvantages as polystyrene foam.

Insulation of the garage with penoizol

Penoizol is a urea-formaldehyde foam. It has advantages similar to the materials described above and several additional ones. The most important of them lies in the technology of insulation. Penoizol is pumped into technical voids, for this, holes are made in the finished building and the solution fills the space between the frame, wall, floor or roof, and in the building under construction it is poured into the voids. Thus, insulation with penoizol is the most hermetic of all existing, because. has no seams and joints, fills all the cracks.

Penoizol is often called liquid foam, for its fluidity and good insulating properties. At the same time, it has optimal vapor permeability. However, it is difficult to insulate a garage with foam on your own, because. work comes with a number of challenges. Among them: the need to prepare the mixture directly near the garage (requires a lot of space), the need to use special equipment for preparing and pumping the mixture (penoizol is injected under pressure).

In addition, it should be noted that in Western European countries and some US states, penoizol is prohibited for installation in residential premises.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam

PPU is also among the liquid heaters. But, unlike penoizol, it is based on plastic (polymers). Thus, imparting additional properties to the material, such as: elasticity, structural integrity (the material does not crumble), good adhesion to any surfaces.

Polyurethane foam is applied by spraying onto the surface. PPU, unlike penoizol, is not banned in any country in the world, and can be used without restrictions, subject to the application technology. Thus, PPU garage insulation is the most progressive option, but also the most expensive.

Insulation of the garage with foam

Penofol insulation is a thin foil material made of polyethylene foam. Penofol is rarely used as an independent insulation, but its advantages include: small thickness, ability to reflect heat, ease of installation, environmental friendliness.

Garage insulation with mineral wool

Mineral or glass wool have one common drawback - they are afraid of moisture, which means they need additional protection with hydro and vapor barrier films. In addition, wool is a flexible heat-insulating material, i. for its installation, the installation of a frame is required. All this leads to the fact that wool, despite its excellent thermal insulation properties, is rarely used to insulate a garage.

Insulation of the garage with expanded clay

Another heat-insulating material that is used to insulate the garage. Expanded clay is poured onto the floor or roof slab. The advantages of expanded clay gravel - it has high strength, resistance to the environment, is affordable and easy to backfill.

3. From the standpoint of the material from which the garage is built

The table shows the thermal conductivity of materials that are often used for the construction of garages (concrete, foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete, reinforced concrete, brick, metal structures, wood, timber, logs, corrugated board, chipboard, OSB). The table shows that each material has its own thermal conductivity, which leaves its mark on the choice of thermal insulation material.

Table of thermal conductivity of building materials

iron garage insulation. Thick and dense sheet iron acts as a building material. In this case, insulation is mandatory, because. this is the coldest type of construction, which means that the use of materials of high density and considerable thickness is required, for example, foam plastic with a density of 25 kg / m3, 100 mm thick;

metal garage insulation. For construction, corrugated board or thin is used sheet metal. Such a material likewise requires the use of a thick layer of thermal insulation;

concrete garage insulation. concrete walls have a thickness of at least 200 mm. and can be formed from blocks or by pouring a monolithic concrete solution. Concrete is a good conductor of heat, so the thermal insulation of surfaces must be taken seriously;

brick garage insulation. used brick different types and density, and, accordingly, with different thermal conductivity. For example, a hollow brick garage is warmer, it can be insulated with foam, and a silicate one is colder and requires the use of foam;

warming wooden garage . The tree is able to store heat for a long time, but is subject to deformation over time. Insulation technology is largely reduced to the elimination of gaps. As a rule, the insulation of a wooden garage is carried out with soft heaters;

warming frame garage . Regardless of the material from which the frame is made, the very technology of its manufacture provides for the possibility of installing a heater between the frame supports. At the same time, for wooden frame soft insulation is traditionally used, and for metal - hard (polystyrene, polystyrene foam or foam boards).

4. From the position of the front of the work performed

Insulation of only one surface will do nothing to improve the thermal insulation properties of the garage as a whole, so the work must be carried out in a comprehensive manner, starting from the ceiling and ending with the floor. If the work is planned to be carried out as the budget is replenished, then you need to start with the insulation of the gate.

Garage roof insulation

Roof insulation is the first stage of work. If there is an attic above the garage, then work can be done in the attic by making a frame of timber on the floor attic floor and filling it with insulation. Cotton wool, foam plastic, expanded clay and even sawdust can act as a heat insulator;

Ceiling insulation in the garage

Often the ceiling is insulated directly in the garage. When using rigid insulation and even overlap, this type of work is relatively simple. The procedure is similar to wall insulation. As decorative coating on the ceiling, light sheets of fiberboard or wooden, plastic lining are used.

Garage wall insulation

The walls have the largest area, which means that maximum heat comes out through them. How to insulate garage walls? For thermal insulation, both rigid and soft thermal insulation material can be used. The order of work does not depend on whether the insulation will be located inside or outside. Below is a brief step by step instructions, which will allow you to designate the front of the work with your own hands.

How to insulate garage walls with hard insulation

The technology of insulation with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, foam plastic will be similar:

clean the wall surface from debris (protruding parts, peeled paint, chips, dust, soot, etc.). Particular attention is paid to the old coating. For example, plaster that does not adhere well to the wall must be removed.
An important requirement for fixing heat-insulating material is a reliable foundation. Additionally, you can walk on the surface with a metal brush;

Note. It is impossible to process the professional flooring with a brush, because. the protective primer layer is broken.

cover the walls with a primer, this will increase the adhesion of the adhesive to the surface;

apply glue to the foam sheet. Can be applied with trowel or notched trowel. Glue in cylinders has proven itself well;

install the foam in place and press firmly to the surface. Work begins with the installation of the bottom sheets, which are supported by a metal profile or wooden beam(treated with antiseptics). Each subsequent row of insulation is laid with an offset;

after laying all the sheets, they are additionally fixed with dowels with an umbrella, and the voids between them are filled with mounting foam or scraps of polystyrene / polystyrene foam;

then a polymer mesh is attached to the foam and closed with an adhesive solution;

finishing is carried out with plaster for interior or exterior use, as well as plastic clapboard, siding, etc.

How to insulate the walls of the garage with soft insulation (wool):

prepare and prime the surface;

put a frame on the wall. The distance between the bars is equal to the width of the insulation minus 15-20 mm. Masters advise using not a wooden, but a metal frame in the garage.
Good reviews about the frame of drywall profiles. Often enough to build only vertical guides. But with a garage height of more than 2,600, crossbars must be made to avoid material settling. If the density of the wool is low, it is recommended to make the cross bars every 1,000 mm;

place the waterproofing film in the frame. The film must overlap. The film is attached to the frame with a stapler;

insulation is placed in the cells of the frame;

vapor barrier film is installed. Installation is also carried out with an overlap with gluing the joints with adhesive tape;

the wall is finished with a finishing material that is suitable for specific operating conditions.

Note. If a heater is installed in the garage, then foam plastic cannot be used near it, but only mineral wool.

Underfloor heating in the garage

If there is a basement under the garage floor, it makes no sense to insulate it, but if it is located on the ground, then it is necessary. Hard insulation or expanded clay is used for floor insulation.

How to insulate the floor in the garage with expanded clay

foundation preparation. For this, the existing flooring. This step can be skipped. But when using expanded clay, a screed is supposed to be arranged, and this will raise the floor level above the threshold value and create difficulties with entering the garage;

roofing material or other material that performs waterproofing functions is laid on the base. Strips of roofing material are overlapped and protrude onto the wall by 300-400 mm;

guides are set to align the layer in height;

expanded clay is poured between the guides. Layer thickness 300-400 mm;

the guides are removed, the place of their installation is covered with expanded clay;

wooden logs are installed for mounting wooden flooring or metal beacons for screed;
Advice. A slight slope will allow water to flow towards the gate.

a screed is poured - a cement-sand mortar (in a ratio of 1 to 3) or a flooring is laid.
Note. According to reviews, the wooden flooring in the garage quickly becomes unusable.

beacons are removed from the screed (no later than a day from the moment the screed was poured). It is necessary to do this, because. the screed can sag, and the beacon is deformed and will cause punctures in the car tire. The place of the removed beacons is filled with a solution.

Recommendation. Instead of expanded clay, you can lay cotton wool, and as finish coat use wood. But, in practice, this design is not effective due to frequent contact with moisture (melted snow, rainwater flowing from the car).

How to insulate the garage floor with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam

a rough screed is performed or a pillow of crushed stone and sand is poured;
Note. The pillow can be deformed when laying the insulation.

sheets of insulation are laid on the surface. Masters advise to connect the ends of the sheets to each other with glue to avoid displacement;

beacons are placed on the foam;

screed is poured;

beacons are removed from the solution, and their installation sites are concreted.

Garage door insulation

Garage doors are the main source of heat loss. There are structures that consist of a gate and a gate. Then the open area is much smaller. If only the doors open, then you can choose one of the options:

install a curtain from inside the garage. For this, a tarpaulin is used, dense fabric or a thick film attached to a stretched cable (string), a metal profile or a wooden rail under the ceiling, so that it is possible to move the “curtain”.

use insulating material. If the design allows, the gate leaves can be removed (but taking into account big weight gate, work is carried out on a canopy). Usually gates, both metal and wooden, have a rigid frame. The insulation is placed in the cells of the frame and fixed with “liquid nails” glue on the surface of the wings. To protect the insulation, lining, sheets of fiberboard or OSB are used, fixed on the frame of the leaves (sheathing the gate from the inside with facing material).

Installing seals around the perimeter of the sash will help prevent heat loss and blowing (drafts).

Conclusion

Summarizing the above: the insulation of the garage can be done independently, the cost is only for the purchase of materials. As a result, the right microclimate will provide the car with optimal storage conditions.

Garage insulation is a process that worries many owners of this small structure today. Everyone began to understand that in a warm room, the car lasts much longer. Therefore, in this article we will talk about ways to insulate, how to insulate a garage from the inside and out, what points of the insulation process should be paid attention to in the first place.

Garage insulated from the inside, sheathed with OSB slabs Source roomester.ru

How best to insulate: outside or inside

According to all building codes best option- Outside insulation. The thing is that the boundary between the heat-insulating material and the skin is the area where condensation forms. And if you make insulation from the inside, then this zone falls between the insulation and the walls of the garage. At the same time, the latter freeze completely (through and through) in winter, which negatively affects the building material. Plus, condensate, which reduces the performance of any building material.

This is the first reason. The second is the ability not to reduce usable space in the garage. The insulation laid on the walls takes up some space. Here you will have to add the thickness of the skin. That is, on each side along the walls, approximately a reduction will occur by 3-5 cm.

The third reason makes it possible to ignore the environmental friendliness of the heat-insulating material. It will be located on the outside, street side, which means that if the insulation emits substances harmful to humans, they will immediately disappear. Moreover, such materials are much cheaper than environmentally friendly ones.

Outside garage insulation Source remstroiblog.ru

But it is not always possible to insulate the walls of the garage from the outside. If for some reason this is not possible, then all work on thermal insulation is transferred inside.

Market overview of thermal insulation materials

Before moving on to the process of warming the garage structure itself, let's talk about heaters. About those that are used today for this purpose. There is a fairly large layer of building materials of this type, which builders use today. There are traditional materials here, there are those that have appeared recently, but have already gained popularity.

Mineral wool

This insulation has been used in construction for a long time. At the very beginning of its appearance, it was a roll-type material. Today it is still produced in this version, but modern form mineral wool are plates. They are called mineral wool boards.

It should be noted that a fairly wide list of materials is used as raw materials in mineral wool boards. But basalt-based insulation is very popular. This heat-insulating material is presented on the market with plates of different density and thickness. This makes it easier to select according to the required characteristics.

Mineral wool boards - a demanded insulation Source 2gis.kz

The only drawback of mineral wool is hygroscopicity. That is, this material absorbs moisture well, while losing its thermal characteristics. To prevent this from happening, the heat-insulating layer is covered on both sides with waterproofing films. Today, manufacturers offer moisture-resistant mineral wool boards, in which hygroscopicity is reduced to the maximum. This makes it possible to refuse waterproofing.

Won't tell everyone technical specifications mineral wool. We denote the most significant, according to which it is necessary to choose a heater. This is the thermal conductivity of the material.

On a note! Thermal conductivity is the property of a material or body to transfer heat. The lower this parameter, the better in terms of insulation.

So, for mineral wool, this characteristic is 0.035-0.04 W / m K.

Styrofoam boards

Many people call this material foam, which is fundamentally wrong, although both materials are included in the group of foamed plastics made from polystyrene. Styrofoam is simply a material originally created for packaging. It has a low density and low thermal insulation qualities. What can not be said about polystyrene foam, which was originally developed as a heat-insulating material.

Moisture resistant polystyrene boards Source www.stroyportal.ru

This foam insulation has serious advantages:

thermal conductivity– 0.028-0.034 W/m K;
extruded version does not absorb moisture;
misses air through itself;
strength– 1 kg/cm²;
inert to many chemicals;
on the surface of the heater do not live mold and fungi;
this one good sound insulator;
life time- 30 years.

But polystyrene boards also have their drawbacks. And the most important of them is fire hazard. The insulation burns well and supports combustion, while emitting acrid smoke. Today, manufacturers are trying to change the situation with this indicator. Fire-resistant boards have already appeared on the market, but there are not so many of them.

And one more thing that you need to pay attention to when choosing polystyrene foam as a heater. This is the brand of the material. The best option for a garage is PSB-S-35 (40) - self-extinguishing, with a density of 40 kg / m³. The thickness of the plates should not be less than 50 mm.

Expanded polystyrene plates of the brand PSB-S-35 Source karkasdomproekt.ru

polyurethane foam

This is a two-component material, the ingredients of which are mixed before application. According to its physical state, it is a foamed semi-liquid mass, which hardens in air, forming a hydrophobic layer on the insulated surface. That is, not afraid of moisture.

Applying polyurethane foam requires special equipment. It is applied under pressure from a hose with a nozzle. High adhesive characteristics of the material give it the ability to stick to any surfaces that are previously cleaned of dirt and rust. In this case, the mixture fills all the cracks, gaps and holes.

This is a non-flammable heater. Service life - 50 years. Thermal conductivity - 0.019-0.028 W / m K. Minimum moisture absorption - 1.2%.

A layer of applied polyurethane foam Source foamshop.ru

Warm plaster

This plaster mortar got its name because manufacturers add particles of heat-insulating material to its composition. These can be expanded polystyrene granules, the so-called crumb, vermiculite (foamed rock of volcanic origin), sawdust and other ingredients.

In fact, such a plaster mix has higher thermal insulation characteristics than ordinary plaster. But to achieve a good effect, the material must be applied in a sufficiently thick layer. It is used both for warming the garage from the inside, and for thermal insulation from the outside. It is clear if the garage is built of bricks, blocks or concrete slabs. For a metal structure, this option is unacceptable.

Warm plaster is applied to the wall in a thick layer. Source tk101.ru

So, we examined the main heat-insulating materials that are most often used today when insulating a garage building. Of course, this is not the whole list of proposed options. They just use it more often.

Most often, many consumers are looking for how to insulate the garage from the inside inexpensively. The table compares prices for the described heaters.

The price fork for each material is quite wide. This is due to the fact that the basis of pricing is the thickness of the insulation, its density. The table shows that the most inexpensive option is mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards.

The most economical thermal insulation materials Source krysha-expert.ru

Insulation technologies

Having dealt with the question of how to insulate the garage, we proceed directly to the process itself. Let's start with external insulation. The easiest option is plastering. Everything is quite simple here. Warm plaster is applied to external surfaces garage walls using standard technology. That is, they throw it on the surface with a trowel and align it with the rule according to the established beacons.

There is a variant of mechanized plastering. For this, special stations are used in which the plaster mixture is prepared and it is immediately applied to the walls under pressure from it. In this way, insulation can be carried out from the inside of the room.

Video description

In order not to go into details technological process, we suggest watching a video that tells how to properly apply warm plaster on the walls in two ways:

Expanded polystyrene boards for external insulation

If the garage is built of bricks or blocks, then the expanded polystyrene plates can simply be attached to the wall surfaces, stacking them tightly to each other. There are two mounting methods:

for mushroom screws or more precisely on dowel-nails for insulating materials;
on the adhesive.

The first one is usually used, because styrofoam glue is an expensive thing. It is sold in cans. The contents are applied to the reverse side of the plate in the corners and in the middle. And then they just push it against the wall.

As for self-tapping screws, these are special fasteners made of plastic, consisting of two parts: a dowel and a nail. Under the first, through the insulation in the wall, a hole is made where the dowel is inserted. At the same time, its wide cap will hold the heat-insulating plate. After that, the second part is hammered into it, which bursts the first.

Dowel-nail for insulating boards Source decorexpro.com

Usually, two fasteners are used for each plate. When laying thermal insulation, it is very important to ensure that there are no gaps and cracks between its elements. It is optimal for this to use plates with a tongue-and-groove locking connection. If ordinary plates with even edges are used, then when gaps form between them, the latter are filled with special foam. It is similar to the assembly, only in the air it does not expand in volume.

How expanded polystyrene plates are attached to the wall with mushroom-shaped nails Source stroyfora.ru

An interesting fact is that a wall insulated with polystyrene foam can be plastered. To do this, a plaster synthetic mesh is laid on it and the plaster layer itself is applied. You can also lay insulation under a ventilated facade, for which you will first have to assemble the frame, lay thermal insulation in it, and install it on top finishing material. In the photo above, such an option for finishing and insulation external walls garage shown.

Mineral wool for outdoor insulation

For mineral wool boards, it is better to build a ventilated facade. That is, a frame is assembled on the walls of the garage either from wooden slats or from galvanized metal profiles used to install drywall sheets. On the street it is better to use a moisture resistant option. But even with its use, it is recommended to close the heat-insulating layer with a waterproofing membrane.

Warming the walls of the garage with mineral wool from the outside Source pt.decorexpro.com

Here is the sequence for assembling an insulated ventilated facade:

Attached to the wall direct hangers, on which the elements of the crate will be mounted. The distance between them vertically and horizontally is 50-60 cm.
Insulation installation. It doesn't matter how wide this material is. It can be easily installed directly on the mounted hangers by making holes with a knife. The main thing is to tightly install mineral wool boards to each other.
Installation of framing elements.
Laying waterproofing as horizontal stripes membranes that are attached to the frame and overlap each other. Joints must be fastened with self-adhesive tape.
Sheathing installation: siding, decorative boards, etc.

There is a frameless option for insulating the walls of the garage. To do this, mineral wool or polystyrene foam plates are attached to the walls with dowel-nails. And then sheathed with bricks. Under the latter, a narrow foundation will have to be poured.

External insulation of the garage, followed by brick cladding Source skb21.ru

Garage interior insulation

In principle, everything that was described above can be transferred inside the garage building. These technologies are also applicable here. The only thing that was not marked was polyurethane foam. He has the least problems. If the garage is brick or block, then a crate is first installed on the walls, along which the finishing will subsequently be carried out. Here it is better to use wooden bars, which are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws and dowels.

The foam is applied in a layer equal to the thickness of the frame elements. After hardening, a seamless heat-insulating layer with a sufficiently high strength is formed on the treated surfaces.

By the way, it is in this way that it is convenient and effective to insulate garages assembled from metal profiles and sheet iron.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam from the inside Source garage-s.ru

Insulation from the inside of a metal garage

This building is a frame made of a steel corner or profile pipe sheathed on the outside with metal sheets or corrugated board. That is, it turns out that the frame of the garage is located inside. And it automatically becomes a frame for finishing. So between finishing and outer skin you can lay a thermal insulation layer.

If polystyrene foam plates are used, then they are attached to the steel surface with an adhesive composition. The main requirement for installation is a tight fit of the plates to each other.

Iron garage sheathed from the inside with polystyrene foam plates - before finishing Source isolux.ru

If mineral wool is used, then they are not glued to the metal. To do this, select the plates in width so that they enter between the elements of the frame into an interference fit. If the distance between the elements of the crate is greater than the maximum width of the insulation, then wooden bars are installed in the gap of the garage frame, reducing the distance.

And what about polyurethane foam. This is the best option for warming from the inside of the garage.

Video description

The video shows how the garage is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam:

Floor and ceiling insulation in the garage

The floor is the easiest. It's thick concrete screed, under which you just need to lay a heater. More often, expanded clay is used for this. They do it like this:

At the site of the garage dig a pit up to 50 cm deep.
into it fall asleep rubble layer 15 cm.
Then sand 15 cm layer with ramming.
Covered with roofing felt in two perpendicular layers.
Fall asleep expanded clay.
Another waterproofing layer.
Laying reinforcing bars from steel fittings.
Pouring concrete.

You can not fill up expanded clay, but instead of concrete, use expanded clay concrete mortar. Instead of expanded clay, you can fill in perlite or lay polystyrene foam plates.

Layers of insulated garage floor Source mirstrojka.ru

As for the insulation of the ceiling, everything will depend on what this building element of the garage structure is.

If this concrete floor slab, then it is better to assemble a suspended structure into which a heater is laid. You can apply warm plaster.
If this metal roof, then optimally - treat it with polyurethane foam.
Since the roof of the metal garage is assembled, like the walls, in the form of a frame sheathed with outside iron, then between the elements of the crate can be laid slab insulation. The technology is the same as on the walls.

Video description

The video shows one of the options for insulating the garage ceiling:

Conclusion on the topic

Garage insulation is a minimal expense, even if you use expensive polyurethane foam. The main task is to carry out the above processes correctly, taking into account the design of the building and the characteristics of the heaters. But for this, it is recommended to contact professionals who will perform all the work quickly and efficiently.

Insulating a garage is a difficult question, but it can be solved. The main task facing its owner is the safety of the car. To protect the car from corrosion and other adverse effects, it is important to create the right temperature and humidity conditions in the room. Is it possible to achieve on your own the desired result with the help of thermal insulation, we will consider in more detail.

The need to insulate an unheated garage

Some car owners believe that the garage serves only as a protection against precipitation, which causes rust and corrosion of the body. However, low temperatures and its sudden changes adversely affect the condition of the entire machine, including the engine. Experts say that the thermometer in the cold season should be kept at around 5-10 degrees. And here you can’t do without warming an unheated garage. Measures to create the right temperature and humidity regime will extend the life of the car, as well as provide favorable conditions for your stay in the room.

Good to know. Insulating the building envelope of a heated garage will help reduce heat loss and energy costs for space heating, which will significantly save your money.

Construction insulation options

The choice of material and method of garage insulation depends on the following factors: construct, size of the garage, material of enclosing structures. It is known that large heat losses of the room occur through the walls due to the larger area. Therefore, to save time and money, you can only insulate them, from the outside or from the inside.

General rules for walls

Warming from the inside is carried out in the following cases:

in order to save on material;
to preserve the finish of the facade of the garage;
when insulating a metal garage;
during warming garage doors.

For the insulation of the walls of the garage suitable materials:

Styrofoam. Lightweight, moisture-proof material, fastened without a frame, not susceptible to fungus, affordable. Of the minuses - the release of toxic substances during combustion and fragility;
Expanded polystyrene extruded - a type of foam. It has greater rigidity and strength, but also greater thermal conductivity than ordinary foam. Does not pass moisture, does not rot. The disadvantage is combustibility and poor adhesion, which leads to the need to install the crate or notch the surface.
Glass wool. The price is its main advantage, but in construction it is used only by professionals in large volumes, which is due to the inconvenience of installation.
Mineral wool - non-combustible material, passing not only air, but also moisture, is the most environmentally friendly. For installation, the installation of a crate is often required.

The principle of external wall insulation is that plate insulation is mounted on the surface. If necessary, a windproof film is arranged. This is followed by finishing, for example: mesh plastering with further painting, drywall, PVC or lining, profiled sheets, siding, facing brick or stone.

Depending on the characteristics of the material and the base, the thermal insulation is attached in two ways:

The latter option is more reliable for the installation of non-rigid slabs and with heavy finishes: siding, several layers of plaster, including decorative, stone cladding, etc. It will also help hide serious drops and irregularities in the base.

Lathing is also necessary when insulating garage doors. This is due to their constant operation and finishing.

If you live in an area with cold winters and low temperatures, then in order to avoid freezing of structures and reduce heat loss, you should also think about insulating the floor and ceiling (roof).

General rules for the floor

Warming the floor is not a laborious process. It is possible to insulate both an existing floor and a base on the ground.

The following materials are used for floor insulation:

Styrofoam - as a floor insulation is used more often in apartments, it can be damaged under heavy loads, it is unstable to rodents;
Expanded clay - the most affordable and economical material, durable, easy to install, lightweight, has good thermal conductivity, but absorbs moisture well, as a result of which it loses thermal insulation properties;
Construction slag - in many respects similar to expanded clay, good thermal conductivity, sound insulation, does not rot, is not afraid of rodents, but is subject to moisture. May possess large quantity small particles, which reduces its heat-conducting qualities, it is more difficult to ram;
Construction sawdust is a clean ecological material, but a number of disadvantages are associated with its rapid dampening under the influence of moisture, as well as combustibility;
Rigid mineral wool boards - a good option, as a floor insulation, but more expensive.

When there is already a concrete slab in the garage, a heater is laid on it, and a reinforced screed is placed on top. In this case, the most correct solution is to use polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. It should be taken into account the vapor barrier layer of the film laid on top of the insulation with an institution on the walls.

When constructing a base from scratch, the subsequent floor covering plays an important role in the choice of insulation.

When installing a wooden floor, the insulation is laid between the logs, which are covered with boards from above. In this case, the heat-insulating material can be any.

Important! Between the insulation and the coating, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap of at least 5 cm.

Also consider the flammability of the material. Accordingly, the tree must be treated with an antiseptic solution. Insulation vapor barrier is a must.

When constructing concrete floors on the ground, the insulation is laid on a sand-gravel compacted preparation, and a reinforced concrete screed is poured on top. A film is placed under the insulation and on top of it, which serves as a waterproofing and vapor barrier. As a heater, you can lay foam or polystyrene, mineral wool boards or a layer of expanded clay.

General rules for the ceiling (roof)

Roof insulation can be carried out both from the inside and outside. Outside, it is advisable to carry out work if there is no roofing. A heater is laid on a concrete slab, a vapor barrier layer and a screed is poured. From above it is covered with a bituminous composition or welded roofing material.

The technology of internal roof insulation is in most cases similar to wall insulation. The plates are fastened with glue and dowels or crates. An exception is a garage with an attic, which significantly reduces heat loss. In this case, you can do without insulation. Another option is to lay thermal insulation in the attic floor.

If the garage roof is pitched, the insulation is inserted into the crate mounted to the rafter system.

Then the ceiling is plastered over the grid, or covered with plywood, clapboard, plasterboard and other materials.

With a cellar

The cellar in the garage must also be insulated to prevent heat loss and dampness. Insulation of the floor and walls is carried out from the inside in the same way as the main garage room.
With a small cellar, it is more expedient to stick the insulation on the walls without mounting the crate. With this method, heat-insulating materials such as polystyrene or polystyrene are suitable.

An important point in the insulation of the cellar is its protection from moisture and leakage, which is due to its close location to groundwater. Therefore, before installing the heat-insulating layer of the floor, it is necessary to install a waterproofing device, which is placed on the walls, by 10-15 cm. Most often, roofing material or lubrication of surfaces with hot bitumen is used.

Important! Whichever of the insulation options you choose, you should remember that ventilation holes must be left in the structures.

What to insulate? Material selection and preparation for work

How to decide on the choice of material and its thickness, what you need to pay attention to, we will consider further.

If you have the most common type of garage built from brick, aerated concrete, FBS blocks or concrete, we choose a heater for the outer skin.

The simplest and most economical option is expanded polystyrene foam, i.e. polystyrene. Although its strength characteristics are lower than extruded polystyrene foam, it has proven itself well for finishing plaster with coloring. And the ease of installation, the values of thermal conductivity and, of course, the price make it the most popular among private builders.

thermal conductivity - 0.038–0.043 (W / m * K);
vapor permeability - 0.05 Mg / (m * h * Pa).

It makes sense to insulate a wooden garage only with breathable insulation, mineral wool or glass wool.

Finished insulation flat roof or ceiling is made from the inside with foam on glue. Since the ceiling is not subject to any mechanical stress, expanded polystyrene can be accepted as grade PSB-15 and with a minimum thickness of 50 mm.

To warm the floor on the ground, you can use any convenient option. We propose to insulate it with expanded clay, which is widely used when pouring floors, which is laid with a layer thickness of 10–15 cm.

Calculation

Let's give an example of calculating the material for a brick garage. On the plan, it is presented as a separate rectangular building, without windows, with gates 2.7x3 m and a flat roof.

We calculate the outer perimeter P along the walls with sides of 4 m and 6 m. P \u003d (4 + 6) x2 \u003d 20 m.

The area of the garage is calculated as: S=PxH, where H is the height of the walls outside. We will conditionally take this value as 3 m.
S=20×3.0=60 m2.

Subtract from the area of the walls the area of all openings, except for the gate.

Insulation area, including on the gate: S ut \u003d 60–0 \u003d 60 m 2;

The area of insulation without a gate: S ut ' \u003d 60–2.7x3 \u003d 51.9 m 2.

The volume of foam for walls and gates: V ut \u003d 60x0.05 + 15% \u003d 2.595x1.1 \u003d 3.45 m 3, where 15% is the stock of material.

We calculate the amount of glue for fastening based on a consumption of 10 kg per 1 m 2: W cl \u003d 10x60 + 15% \u003d 690 kg.

Dowels at the rate of 10 pcs. per 1 m 2: N dub \u003d 10x60 + 15% \u003d 690 pcs.

The leveling solution is calculated from a consumption of 6–10 kg per 1 m 2: W vyr \u003d 51.9x8 + 10% \u003d 415.2x1.1 \u003d 457 kg.

We take the amount of plaster mixture from a consumption of 17 kg per 1 m 2 with a layer thickness of 2 cm: W pieces \u003d 51.9x17 + 10% \u003d 882.3 * 1.1 \u003d 971 kg.

Styrofoam is sold both in individual sheets and in packages.

Calculation of insulation on the ceiling is calculated according to the same principle.

The area of insulation in our case: S ut \u003d 4x6 \u003d 24 m 2.

Insulation volume: V ut \u003d 24x0.05 + 10% \u003d 1.2x1.1 \u003d 1.32 m 3.

The amount of glue W cl \u003d 10x24 + 15% \u003d 276 kg.

Dowels: N dowel \u003d 10x24 + 15% \u003d 276 pcs.

Leveling solution: W vyr \u003d 24x8 + 10% \u003d 192x1.1 \u003d 211 kg.

We take the amount of plaster mixture from a consumption of 17 kg per 1 m 2 with a layer thickness of 2 cm: W pieces \u003d 24x17 + 10% \u003d 408 * 1.1 \u003d 449 kg.

Fiberglass mesh for floors and walls is calculated from a consumption of 1.1 m 2 per 1 m 2: S set \u003d 1.1x (51.9 + 24) + 10% \u003d 83.5x1.1 \u003d 92 m 2.

The volume of expanded clay for the floor: Vker \u003d 24x0.1 + 5% \u003d 2.4x1.05 \u003d 2.52 m 3.

For a screed 5 cm thick, we need the volume of the solution: V st \u003d 0.05x24 + 10% \u003d 1.2 * 1.1 \u003d 1.3 m 3, of which 4/5 is fine sand and 1/5 is M400 cement .

For 1 m 3 of the solution, the consumption of cement is 400 kg: W cement \u003d 1.3x400 \u003d 520 kg.

For 1 m 3 of the solution, the consumption of sand is 1000 kg: W pes \u003d 1.3x1000 \u003d 1300 kg.

Required Tools

Prepare the necessary tools in advance.

For the installation of polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, you will need:

start panel and corner, not less than a heater thick;
a hammer;
cutting knife;
spatulas;
dowels - fungi 6x4 mm;
primer;
mounting foam;
glue for foam plastic and sickle.

For flooring you will need:

shovel;
a hammer;
nails;
wood saw;
polyethylene film for vapor barrier;
material for waterproofing;
rule;
level;
trowel;
steel brush;
vibrating plate for concrete;
bars-stands, lighthouses.

Step-by-step instructions for self-insulating the floor on the ground with your own hands

The device of crushed-stone-sand pillow. Gravel or crushed stone is poured to a height of 100 mm. A layer of sand 50–100 mm thick is laid. Spilled with water and rammed with a vibrating plate.
Waterproofing device (in the cellar). Polyethylene or roofing material is rolled out and laid on the base. Do not forget to bring the edges of the roll to the walls, 100-150 mm.
Expanded clay 100 mm thick is poured in, compacted.
It would be useful to lay a layer of polyethylene vapor barrier overlap.
Screed reinforcement. A metal mesh Ø4–8 mm with mesh sizes of 100x100 mm is placed on wooden or brick stands at a height of 2–3 cm from the base.
Lighthouse device. Metal or wooden guides are fixed on pillows from pre-prepared cement-sand mortar in increments of 0.5–1 m, checked by level.
Cement-sand mortar is mixed in a container of 4 parts of sand, 1 part of cement and water. The solution is laid with shovels in parts, processed with a vibrating plate, leveled with a rule and a spatula along the beacons.

The screed gains its final strength after 28 days. Before that, it is desirable to cover it with a film to retain moisture in the concrete.

Good to know. Thanks to the insulation in the garage, you can make the floor slope for water to drain.

We insulate the walls

Surface preparation. The walls are cleaned of dust and the ledges are dismantled. Depressions and cracks are smeared with mortar using a trowel or spatula. The wall is primed with a roller for better adhesion to the adhesive, left to dry.
Mounting on the plinth of the base plate using self-tapping screws. The start panel is mounted around the entire perimeter of the garage at the start of insulation. Self-tapping screws are screwed in every 0.5 m. Level check.
The first row of foam plates is mounted with support on the starting corner. Pre-mixed adhesive is applied to the cleaned foam dotted and along the entire edge. The plate is firmly pressed against the wall. The distance between the plates is kept 2-3 mm. The entire row is leveled.
The next row is mounted "in the dressing" in the same way. That is, the vertical seams of each subsequent row should be approximately in the middle of the slabs of the bottom row. To give the masonry rigidity, the panels are joined at the corners with a serrated joint.
After the installation is completed, the facade must dry for three days.
Then each plate is fixed with several dowels, in the corners and in the middle. The seams between the plates and the caps are covered with a leveling mortar or mounting foam.
Under plastering, the next step is to apply a reinforcing fiberglass mesh to the insulation. It is attached with an adhesive leveling layer using a wide spatula. The mesh is partially stretched and held with one hand, the solution is thinly applied with the other. Particular attention should be paid to the corners of the building. They're still reinforcing corner profiles which are mounted vertically with mortar.
Puttying a pre-primed surface. The diluted dry mixture is applied with a spatula in a thin layer and pulled vertically. Leave to dry.
Plastering with subsequent painting of the facade. alternative ordinary plaster may be decorative.

How to insulate the ceiling?

Work on the insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the same sequence as on the walls.

Garage for vehicle should be as comfortable temperature regime, like an apartment or a house for a person. Because sudden drops are unfavorable for the car and can cause corrosion due to condensation.

In the winter season, it is possible to achieve a balance of indicators if specific measures are taken for this. For example, insulate the walls, the roof of the garage or take care of the heating of the room. All these methods will give positive results, and the created climate will keep the car in its original form for a long time.

Of course, the cost of thermal insulation requires considerable investment. If the garage is part of the house, then the costs are fully justified. And in the case of a separate room for this structure, the problem of the cost-effectiveness of building materials for the owner is in the first place.

In this case, traditional heaters are usually used, which protect the garage from low temperatures. In addition, they are also able to maintain sound insulation. Such heaters are distinguished into several types: fiberglass, mineral wool and polymer.

The best way, containing several advantages: low cost, ease of installation, not afraid of moisture, affordable price etc.

The listed materials used to often insulate garage rooms. Although they are still applicable, new technologies are still coming to replace them.

So, thermal insulation novelties have great benefits and useful qualities. Even when arranging problematic premises, they do an excellent job.

For example, penoizol is a liquid foam. With the help of foam, you can easily and quickly fill the space without leaving gaps and visible seams. Dries quickly and is safe (does not burn, waterproof).

BUT liquid heat insulator ideal for insulating metal structures. It visually looks like paint, and they cover the surface with it, applying it with an ordinary brush.

Watch a video showing the technology of garage insulation using polyurethane foam

Unique and properties sprayed insulation based on polyurethane foam , which cover the walls with the help of special equipment. The resulting dense thin crust perfectly retains heat.

The above modern heaters are not yet as widely used as classical material. But with their help, it is much faster and more efficient to carry out the thermal insulation of the garage, moreover, in a very short time.