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Balcony above the bay window waterproofing insulation. Everything you need to know about do-it-yourself balcony waterproofing

When constructing balconies and level terraces, developers often make mistakes in the structure of the base. As a result, leaks and freezing of the balcony slab subsequently occur, which ultimately leads to its destruction.

The base of any terrace or balcony should slope away from the house to ensure natural rainfall drainage. If this is not done, then the water will stagnate, impregnate the underlying layers of the base, and at low temperatures expand and tear the concrete.

The required slope of 1.5-2% may already be the balcony slab itself or the floor slab of the level terrace. Or, on a horizontally mounted slab, a slope-forming layer is made in the form of a screed.

Specified minimum slope so small that the technological layers located above will not spontaneously slide. The slope-forming layer in its thinnest place cannot be thinner than 3.5-4 cm. Otherwise, it may begin to crumble. Thus, with a 3-meter wide terrace, the thickness of the slope-forming layer at the edge of the wall with a 2% slope is 10 cm. The mass of this layer can be significant, so it should be taken into account in design calculations.

The presence of a slope is only a prerequisite, and the integrity of the structure cannot be ensured by it alone. An important point is the waterproofing of the base. The modern market offers a range of materials with which you can effectively waterproof a balcony slab or level terrace floor slab. It can be both all kinds of waterproofing mastics and roll materials (films and membranes). In order to avoid mistakes in creating a floor "pie" and not throw money away, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations and withstand technological breaks.

The structure of the base of the level terrace

Under the level terrace is meant a wide balcony located above any room or on a base resting on pillars. If the room under such a terrace is operated, then its ceiling (it is also the base of the terrace) must be insulated. In this case, it is possible to combine the insulating layer with the slope-forming one, if special polystyrene foam wedges are used. If a slope-forming screed is made or the floor slabs themselves already have a minimum slope, then the insulation is performed with plates of conventional or extruded polystyrene foam or foam glass. The last two heaters in this case are more preferable, since they practically do not have water absorption, but they are correspondingly more expensive. Expanded polystyrene for floor insulation of a level terrace has the PSB-S-35 grade and higher.

As an example, consider a standard version of a floor pie of an open level terrace located above an operating room.

The lowest layer is the floor slab (1). It can be mounted with or without an outward slope. The advantage of the first option is the absence of the need to make a slope-forming layer (2), which will additionally load the ceiling if it is a cement screed.

On top of the slab or the slope-forming screed made on it, a layer of vapor barrier (3) is laid from a construction film or roofing felt, which will protect the insulation from moisture from water vapor diffusing outward from the living space. This vapor barrier must be brought to the wall to the level of the door threshold.

Insulation (4) is laid with a total layer of 12-20 cm with offset seams.

From above, the insulation is protected from moisture from above by a layer of waterproofing (5). It can be a polyethylene or polypropylene building film with a thickness of 0.2 mm. It also performs a separating function, allowing the overlying clamping screed (6) and the insulation layer to work independently of each other.

The pressure layer (6) is a reinforced cement screed 4-5 cm thick. Reinforcement is made in the form of a mesh with 10×10 cm cells of 3 mm steel rods. In the pressure layer, it is necessary to provide expansion joints: wall and forced. The latter divide the screed into sections of about 4 m². The width of the forced seams is 10-12 mm, and the width of the wall seams is at least 15 mm. Forced expansion joints in a reinforced screed are performed using the preliminary laying of metal corners, which are removed after cement mortar grab. When the screed has matured (after at least 14 days), the seams are filled with an elastic cord (10), the diameter of which is slightly larger than the width of the seam. This cord must be inserted into the seam so that it does not reach the bottom of the groove, otherwise the stresses that arise during the shrinkage process will be transmitted to the lower layers, and this is undesirable. The upper part of the seam, remaining above the cord, is filled with an elastic mass, forming a concave meniscus on the surface.

On top of the pressure layer, continuous waterproofing (7) is made, which is a waterproof seamless membrane made of polyurethane or mineral mass with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

The top finish (14) is laid over the waterproofing layer. It can be cold hardy ceramic tile or deck board. When laying a tiled floor, it is imperative to provide expansion (temperature) seams, which are longitudinal slots about 10 mm wide, filled with a special elastic cord made of polyurethane or polyethylene. Joints can also be filled with acidic outdoor silicone, forming a concave meniscus in the profile of the joint.

Weak link - waterproofing

Before applying liquid waterproofing concrete base should be primed, which will reduce its hygroscopicity. Most often, mineral primers are used that penetrate the base to a depth of 2 mm. Best result will be with double processing.

The most vulnerable areas of the base need more thorough waterproofing. These are primarily corners (11), adjoining to the wall and expansion joints. Sealing tapes (9) are laid in the above places. Due to their elasticity and stability in a wide temperature range (+90…-40С°), they are resistant to cracking.

Terrace waterproofing is recommended with polyurethane mastics or mineral mixtures (one- or two-component), as they have sufficient elasticity. It is necessary to apply mastic in two layers with an interval of 4-8 hours. Coating waterproofing should capture sealing tapes to a width of at least 2 cm. Waterproofing work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than -5 ° C and not higher than 25 ° C, and it is better in cloudy weather, since the material can become very hot and leak in the sun. Before applying it, be sure to read the manufacturer's recommendations for use. Some mastics are applied only on a dry base, but there are those that are applied on a wet one. After application, protect the surface from direct sunlight for at least 12 hours.

Terrace or balcony finishing

Frost-resistant ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware are excellent options floor covering level terrace or balcony. They reliably protect the waterproofing coating from mechanical damage and are easy to clean. The tiles can be laid on the elastic adhesive mortar (8) already 24 hours after the last layer of waterproofing has been applied. The tile joints are filled with a frost-resistant elastic fugue (13).

The temperature (compensation) seams of the pressure plate withstand and finishing coating. Their width, as a rule, is reduced, but they remain in line with the axis of the main seam. Expansion joints between tiles must not be filled with adhesive mortar or grout. This must be done with silicone sealant for outdoor use. Do the same with the seams at the junction with the wall (12).

On open terraces and balconies, the flooring will certainly heat up in the sun, and in order to reduce the maximum heating temperature, light-colored tiles should be used. Dark tiles are more likely to peel off as a result of temperature shifts.

Liquid waterproofing compositions differ in the degree of elasticity, and in order to guarantee tightness, experts recommend closing the expansion joints with sealing tapes. There are also materials on the market that make it possible to refuse expansion joints, due to their high intrinsic elasticity. This, in turn, makes it possible to use the same material as waterproofing and as an adhesive layer for flooring - waterproof polyurethane adhesive.

If earlier the balcony was most often used as a pantry, now everyone is trying to remake it and turn it into a cozy addition to their apartment. However, glazing a balcony and installing a roof on it is not enough. It also needs to be waterproofed.

purpose

Waterproofing a loggia or open balcony in a private house or apartment is needed for protection building materials from water, as well as for warming the balcony. Water flows through cracks or seams of structures and causes the destruction of the balcony slab.

Therefore, these works are quite important in the arrangement of the balcony. After all, waterproofing involves not only sealing the seams, but also other points.

  • Protection of the frame itself, as well as some wood products, with water repellents. They are covered with special drying oils and enamels, as well as varnish.
  • Arrangement of an external ebb, which does not allow water to flow under the frame.
  • Treatment of all wooden surfaces with antiseptics. This is to prevent mold.

If waterproofing is done professionally or even independently, but following the advice of experts, then it will protect not only the ceiling covering, but the floor and walls. In addition, if you make the isolation of the balcony, you can thereby increase the load-bearing structures, and make living more comfortable.

Fortunately, in almost all cases, the base of the balcony or loggia is made of a concrete slab. If the floor is in the middle of the building, then another slab is added to the owners instead of the ceiling, which serves as the ceiling.

Device Features

High-quality waterproofing will help to cope with many troubles that await a person in the future. This is the appearance of mold, and corrosion of metal elements and other finishing materials. And also will not allow the flooring of the balcony to deteriorate.

In order for the waterproofing to be done correctly, it is necessary to take into account all the design features of the balcony.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the following points:

  • processing the entire area of ​​​​the balcony;
  • covering the balcony slab;
  • additional protection.

For different types balconies can be used different types finishes. For open balconies frame house or a brick building, it will be enough to waterproof one slab and the floor. But if the balcony is in a wooden house, then it will be necessary to make waterproofing both from the inside and outside. This is true for the last floor, and for being in the middle.

If the loggia is insulated, then it is additionally necessary to make a vapor barrier, using penofol for this. The door also needs to be waterproofed. By insulating the balcony, you can insulate the floor, walls, ceiling, and the inner surface of the visor.

Floor

Insulation and waterproofing of the floor can be done in different ways.

To begin with, it is worth paying attention to the first method.

  • In this case, the coating mastic is applied to the balcony slab. It is required to protect the styling. In the process of work, the floor is first leveled using concrete screed. If the balcony is open, then it is necessary to make a slope to drain the water.

  • Then wooden logs are laid, as well as insulation. Alternatively, foam can be used. The resulting seams must be sealed. Top fixed OSB boards s, which will serve as the basis for applying sealing. OSB boards need to be treated with a primer, it can be bituminous. This is done to improve adhesion.

  • Then it is necessary to dilute the polyurethane mastic, which contains 2 components, and coat all the corners with it.
  • A tape consisting of geotextile is pressed into it. It reinforces the joints at the corners. Next, the first layer of insulation is applied to the entire plane of the OSB boards, after which it must be reinforced with geotextiles. The second layer builds up gradually, its thickness reaches two centimeters.
  • When the base is completely dry, a layer of polymer binder is applied. It is sprinkled on top with synthetic chips. Then they are sealed with varnish.

There is a second method of waterproofing. In this case, everything is done using roll materials. It can be both fiberglass and roofing material. Here waterproofing can be done using penetrating mastic. When it crystallizes, it fills all the cracks and forms a very durable coating.

Walls

To waterproof the walls and partitions of a balcony or loggia, you can use foil polystyrene foam. It must be firmly glued to the wall. But ordinary foam is also suitable, which must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

The joints that have formed between the sheets must be sealed. Next, two layers of mastic are applied so that the protection is reliable. Before starting work on waterproofing, it is imperative to cut out the U-shaped grooves with a grinder.

They must be made in the seams between the panels, as well as additionally sealed. This is done so that moisture does not enter the room through microcracks. At the end, a decorative coating is attached.

Ceiling

When the balcony is glazed, during precipitation, traces of water may appear, which will collect below. This happens if neither waterproofing nor sealing of the balcony has been done. To fix this problem, you just need to carry out waterproofing work. The first step is to seal the seams using polyurethane sealant.

But before you eliminate the seams, you need to cut them with a grinder. Then the seams are cleaned of dust, then wetted with water.

If there are any spots on the surface of the ceiling, this means that there are cracks in those places through which water enters the balcony. The same must be done with them.

The very waterproofing of the ceiling begins with cleaning the surface. Then the ceiling is treated with an antiseptic so that there is no mold. Then the seams are sealed, which is described above.

To isolate the ceiling, it is necessary to apply a polyurethane mastic, which has very good adhesion. The advantages of this material include the fact that it is applied to the ceiling easily. The mastic must be distributed in two layers so that the second layer is perpendicular to the first. And also after the first layer it is necessary to make reinforcement with a mesh. It takes three days for the mastic to harden well. At this time, you need to pause repair work on the balcony.

And also insulating the roof, you can glue a sheet of foil polystyrene foam to the ceiling. He will also be responsible for the vapor barrier. The seams between them must also be sealed.

materials

Waterproofing work requires a thoughtful approach. Therefore, when choosing materials, it is necessary to carefully analyze all the information about them. After all, many professionals say that waterproofing cannot be good or bad. She either exists or she doesn't. The materials used for waterproofing work can be divided into several types. These are pasting or, in other words, roll, coating materials, as well as painting.

Painting

Paint waterproofing can be of two types:

  • cold, which includes epoxy-rubber resins;
  • hot, it consists of bitumen-polymer varnishes.

It is often used to process balcony terraces. It has properties to protect reinforced concrete floor from corrosion.

However, it is worth remembering that the terms of its service are not too long. Therefore, after five or six years, it will be necessary to restore the paint coating. And you also need to take into account the fact that in severe frost it becomes very fragile.

To apply waterproofing, it is necessary to pre-treat the surface. To do this, it will be enough to clean it and degrease it. Next, you need to apply a primer from the mastic in two layers. In conclusion, you need to paint the floors with bitumen with a layer of two millimeters.

Pasting

Roll waterproofing can be of two types.

  • built-up, when laying which a burner is used.
  • self-adhesive isolation, which is more modern version. It can be glued on its own, while removing only the protective film. No additional tools or materials are required. This option is reliable and durable. In order for everything to go right, you need to prepare the surface well and glue it very carefully.

The most common roll material is roofing material. It is laid with a burner.

It is worth noting penofol and foam foil, which are polyethylene, moreover porous and covered with lavsan film. If the balcony is waterproofed with foam foil, then it will last a long time, since moisture does not accumulate in it, and it can reflect ultraviolet rays. It is also a thermal insulator.

For example, if a balcony is made with foam foil of four millimeters, then it will be equal in efficiency and protection against moisture to one and a half bricks. And this means that no additional insulation is needed for the balcony.

Coating

Today, coating materials are becoming very popular. This is a fairly large group of different insulation products, which include sealants, cement, bitumen or polymer mastics. Coating materials are very unpretentious in work. It is enough to mix them and apply with a spatula to the surface. Sand can be added to some formulations.

Very famous and popular today bituminous mastics. They consist of oxidized bitumen to which certain solvents have been added. This is both crumb and latex, they increase the elasticity of the waterproofing.

This insulation option is resistant to external factors. However, in order for the coating to be of high quality, it is necessary to make a screed after it.

In addition to bituminous, there are also cement-polymer mastics. They are made by adding mineral fillers to them. The cement which is a part provides good adhesion to the basis. Polymer fillers penetrate into the pores of the base and seal them. The result is a layer up to three millimeters thick.

Stages of work

In carrying out waterproofing work, it is very important not only to choose the right materials, but also to carry out the work in the correct sequence and in accordance with all the rules.

The step by step instructions are very simple.

  • First of all, in order for the waterproofing to be of high quality, it is necessary to clean all surfaces of the balcony from paint, dirt, dust and other substances that can impair adhesion. All these works can be done with a regular brush or even a vacuum cleaner.
  • After preparatory work all surfaces are treated with a primer, in other words, a primer. It is applied to the surface with a brush, and then very carefully rubbed into absolutely all the cracks. Then, with a smaller brush, you need to process all the connecting seams. It is very important not to make a mistake in choosing a primer.

When preparing the base, you should follow the recommendations of experts.

  • The unevenness of the base should not be more than two millimeters.
  • The surface must be flat without sharp protrusions.
  • Laying leveling screeds must be done in strips that will go along the guide beacons. Their width should be two or three meters.

  • Before applying cementitious materials to porous surfaces, it is imperative to moisten them with water using a sponge. This will prevent quick drying.
  • The joints of vertical and horizontal surfaces must be glued with a sealing tape. When the structure diverges, it stretches, and when it returns to its original place, it contracts.

Humidity of the prepared base must be at least four percent. If this rule is not followed, then the excess moisture that remains inside after some time can reduce the waterproofing. When making cement-sand screeds, you need to hold for up to 28 days. This is done so that there are no cracks.

The next step is the preparation of waterproofing mixtures. Some of them are available in ready-made form, and some need to be prepared by yourself. Solutions cannot retain their properties for a long time, so they need to be done in small portions.

  • prepare pasting waterproofing and cut pieces to the required size;
  • heat it up with a burner;
  • cover the joints between the wall and the balcony with rolled waterproofing.

To carry out work with coating materials, it is necessary to follow a certain sequence.

  • The air and surface temperature must be at least fifteen degrees above zero. Humidity should not exceed sixty percent. This temperature should be two days before the start of work and another twelve days after their completion.
  • Waterproofing must be applied evenly to the surface of the balcony. This can be done with a spatula or roller.
  • Drying time may vary. It depends on the thickness of the layer, the humidity of the room, as well as the temperature regime.
  • To continue work, it is necessary to check whether the moisture content of the mixture corresponds to the permissible values ​​that correspond to these materials.

To provide additional waterproofing, you need to install on the balcony skylights which are well hydro- and thermally insulated.

If the balcony is open, then it will be enough to waterproof only the floor. If this is a closed balcony or loggia, then the insulation must be made complete.

For balconies that are located above a bay window or other architectural elements, it is necessary to make waterproofing, which has increased protection from natural influences. To do this, the balcony must be very carefully processed both outside and inside. At the end of the work, you need to look so that there are no cracks or cracks left, which can soon lead to water seepage. After all, this will harm not only the balcony, but also the bay window located under it.

You can expand the usable space of any apartment by using a loggia or balcony. Initially, such structures were not intended for year-round use, therefore temperature regime in them seriously depends on external weather conditions. That is why, for the full use of this space, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the loggia or balcony.

The basic thermal insulation schemes of both design options differ little. The main differences are in the need to install a frame wall for balconies that do not have a major external fence, and to insulate the parapet for loggias bounded on all sides by concrete structures.

Basic thermal insulation schemes

Regardless of the type of structure, it can be protected from heat loss in two ways:

  • from inside the room;
  • with outside Houses.

The first option involves waterproofing, laying a layer of insulation and interior decoration the entire space of the balcony or loggia. In this case, you can perform the entire complex of works on your own.

Warming from the outside is most often performed in the presence of a concrete parapet. Starting from the second floor of the house, such work can only be carried out with a special permit in the field of industrial mountaineering. External thermal insulation can only be carried out by experienced specialists in compliance with all safety regulations.

When carrying out work from the inside of the room, all elements of the balcony or loggia are protected from heat loss, with special attention being paid to the external enclosing structures and walls adjacent to the street or technical rooms.

To protect the loggia premises from heat loss, it is necessary to perform the following blocks of work:


  • if necessary, replace old glazing with new double-glazed windows or wooden structures;
  • close up all defects and cracks in the external enclosing structures;
  • perform waterproofing of walls, parapet, floor and ceiling, as well as the frame outer wall for the balcony;
  • lay insulation on all walls, floor and ceiling surfaces;
  • fix an additional layer of vapor barrier;
  • execute finishing premises.

All types of work do not require special vocational training, so anyone can perform the insulation of their balcony or loggia on their own.

To insulate the room from the outside of the house, the construction of ventilated facades is most often mounted. This approach allows not only to keep warm, but also to ensure the constant removal of condensate from the body of the insulation. In the technology of ventilated facades, mineral or stone wool, as well as film waterproofing. This technology is perfect for balconies without external enclosing structures.


Another popular option for external insulation is the construction of a layer of rigid polystyrene foam boards or polyurethane foam spraying followed by surface plastering. This method is more preferable for protecting loggias with a concrete or brick parapet.

When the object is located at a height of more than three meters, thermal insulation must be carried out by specialists with special permits for work at height.

Insulation options

When finishing a loggia or balcony, the most popular options are rigid insulation, for example, extruded polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. These materials are easy to attach to a concrete or brick base, they are characterized by low thermal conductivity at the level of 0.035 W / mK and permeability. As a result, effective protection against heat loss can be achieved with a heat-insulating layer thickness of 50 mm, which reduces the cost of insulating a balcony or loggia.

When choosing polyurethane foam, it is best to apply it by spraying. The device of the protective layer is made after the assembly of all the frames for the exterior finish and the laying of the waterproofing. Spraying provides a monolithic structure of the insulation, which reduces the number of cold bridges. In addition, processing can be done immediately on all surfaces of the room, which reduces the finishing time.


To protect the ceiling and floor, semi-rigid mineral wool. It must be remembered that such heaters are extremely sensitive to getting wet. When moistened, cotton wool almost completely loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, for such heaters, it is important to strictly follow the rules for installing waterproofing and vapor barrier layers.

Required materials and tools

In fact, self-insulation of a balcony or loggia does not require special professional equipment. For all work you will need:

  • drill or screwdriver with an impact bit;
  • grinder for working with a metal profile;
  • gun for sealants and polyurethane foams;
  • tape measure, marking pencil, construction knife.


From Supplies you will need:

  • wooden bars or metal guides for the frame;
  • various types of screws;
  • dish-shaped dowels for fixing hard insulation;
  • waterproofing film and vapor-permeable membrane;
  • the selected insulation in the required quantity;
  • polyurethane or silicone sealant and mounting foam;
  • any finishing material to sheathe the room.

Standard screwdriver sets, pliers and others can be useful in work. small tools which any owner definitely has.

In addition, when constructing a frame, you will need a liquid or laser level to align the guides.

The main stages in the installation of thermal insulation from the inside

Work on the insulation of walls, floors and ceilings is carried out after the installation of new glazing. If the balcony or loggia is already closed with metal-plastic or other modern double-glazed windows, then the integrity of the layer of mounting foam and sealants applied during installation is checked again.

Surface preparation

The parapet of the loggia is carefully inspected for cracks and defects. To achieve minimal heat loss, as well as to protect the structure from waterlogging, it is necessary to carefully seal all cracks with polyurethane sealant or mounting foam.


Additionally, all seams between the parapet, walls and floor are processed. The surface of the walls bordering the street is also inspected. It is necessary to protect all structures as much as possible from the penetration of moisture and heat loss through cracks and defects.

After eliminating the identified cracks and defects, it is necessary to protect the surfaces of the room from external moisture. To do this, the balcony or loggia is completely covered from the inside with waterproofing films. The membranes are overlapped with adjacent sheets overlapping by 5 - 10 cm and all seams are glued with protective tape.


When using polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam, the waterproofing layer can be omitted. The low permeability of materials will not allow moisture to penetrate into the body of the insulation.

After the preparation of the walls, the ceiling and the floor of the loggia or balcony are completed, they are covered with heat-insulating materials. Rigid slabs are fixed to concrete or brickwork by means of plate-shaped polymer dowels. The distance between the individual fasteners should not exceed 40 cm. Most often, five dowels are consumed per standard plate.


The joints between the sheets are additionally insulated with mounting foam without toluene. All winter options such materials may contain toluene, but its use is unacceptable due to the negative effect on polystyrene.

After laying the insulation, all structures are closed with a vapor barrier. For these purposes, it is best to use special polymer membranes or polyethylene foam. The presence of a thin layer of foil from the inner surface of the material will help create the effect of a thermos and additionally protect the room from heat loss.


The vapor barrier can be fixed with polyurethane adhesive. All joints are also overlapped 5 - 10 cm and glued with waterproofing tape.

Frame installation and cladding

After the main protective layers are assembled, the frame is being assembled from wooden bars 40x20 mm or 50x25 mm for fastening finishing material. Sometimes a metal profile 60x27 mm is used instead of wood.

The railing guides are fastened only after the elements are leveled. For fixing, self-tapping screws are used, the length of which allows you to attach a beam or profile directly to a concrete or brick base. The location of the frame is assigned based on the selected material.

So, for drywall it is better to set vertical guides, and plastic panels- horizontal. The distance between the guides should not exceed 40 cm. After installing the frame, the walls, ceiling and floor are sheathed with the selected finishing material.

Insulation of a balcony or loggia will expand the usable space of the apartment and get an excellent office or lounge.

A balcony in a wooden house needs waterproofing to a greater extent than any of its counterparts in a stone building. It's no secret that a tree is extremely susceptible to negative influence atmospheric precipitation, with high dampness, a mold fungus quickly starts up in it, contributing to its accelerated destruction.

Conventionally, the waterproofing of a wooden balcony can be divided into several steps. Here, in many respects, everything depends on what type it belongs to - open or closed. Many today turn their balcony into a kind of pantry, others into a study, and still others into a recreation area. In all these cases, reliable insulation and waterproofing, which can significantly increase comfort, cannot be dispensed with.

Waterproofing an open balcony in a wooden house

When waterproofing an open balcony in a wooden house, it is important to create a slight slope of the coating away from the house, this will avoid the accumulation of water on its surface, absorbing which wooden floors will crumble and collapse. On average, the difference in the height of the edges of the coating near the house, and at the edge of the balcony should not exceed 4 cm, this will avoid breaking the hydraulic insulation.

For any type of balcony, floor waterproofing has a primary role. There are a huge number of materials intended for such an operation, among which there are - rolled, liquid, film and even membrane.

Much in waterproofing depends on the design of the balcony and whether it exists in a ready-made form or is only at the stage of preparation for construction. In the latter case, everything is much simpler and you can build a waterproofing system at the same time as the balcony itself. So, for example, in Switzerland, a balcony covering is lined on a special sheet of metal, between the boards of which small gaps of a few millimeters are left to ensure ventilation of the metal layer.

In the event that the balcony has already been built, the simplest, not expensive and at the same time reliable option is to carry out work to strengthen it and pour a small layer of concrete screed mixed with liquid rubber over the base. Those for whom for some reason this method is not suitable can use special waterproofing boards that are mounted directly under the floor covering.

Excellent waterproofing of the balcony floor in a wooden house can also be obtained thanks to liquid rubber, which is applied to the tree with a special sprayer. The main thing before this is to tightly seal all the cracks between the boards, ordinary mastic is perfect for this. Unfortunately, this method has one serious drawback; for its implementation, special expensive equipment is required, which means that this method will most likely not work to waterproof the balcony in a wooden house with your own hands and you will have to call the master.

Waterproofing a closed balcony in a wooden house

Waterproofing a closed balcony in a wooden house is not much different from an open balcony, but this is only when it comes to flooring. It should not be forgotten that in closed balconies and loggias, in addition to the floor, there are also ceilings and walls, which also need to be given time in the process of waterproofing.

Note! The best way waterproofing the ceiling is to impregnate it properly with special polyurethane mastics. It should be said right away that they are not cheap, but they pay off with interest, since the use of cheaper products will require at least their annual renewal, and polyurethane-based mastic will not require replacement for as long as 5 years.

If there is access to the ceiling of the balcony from the outside, then it is quite possible to carry out waterproofing using the same method as waterproofing the floor covering, or even create a reliable roofing.

Waterproofing the walls of a closed balcony in a wooden house is done in one of the following ways:

  • Painting - the most popular method, which is the process of applying special protective varnishes containing rubber additives. Unfortunately, this option is short-lived and requires regular renewal of the protective layer, due to which, economical at first glance, it turns out to be one of the most expensive;
  • Pasting - these protective materials are both self-adhesive and glued to the surface under the influence high temperatures. The most popular pasting material is roofing material and its analogues. This method is quite laborious and requires a fairly frequent update of the protective layer, so it has become less and less popular lately.
  • Water repellents - ready mixes sold in most hardware stores. They have water-repellent properties, thanks to this they provide protection of the loggia from moisture for enough high level. Unfortunately, they break down quite quickly under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so it is recommended to use them only for internal waterproofing;
  • Powder - these products include the usual cement mixture with hydrophobic additives like liquid rubber, tile adhesive and special types of plaster. Of the disadvantages of powder waterproofing, only relatively low resistance to mechanical damage can be mentioned.

That's all the basic methods of how to waterproof a balcony in a wooden house. As can be seen from the above, it is quite within the power of any ordinary homeowner, in most cases it does not require special skills and special training. However, only by turning to professionals with a good reputation, you can get a truly reliable and high-quality insulation of your balcony.

It is often important to waterproof the balcony despite the fact that it is not glazed. Otherwise, excess moisture may be absorbed into the floor, due to which the plate may be partially damaged over time (there is also a high risk of mold). It is especially difficult to waterproof an open balcony, because. its structures are constantly exposed to moisture. You can deal with internal waterproofing on your own, but for external it is recommended to invite professionals.

Options available

The list of the waterproofing process depends on the selected waterproofing option and the characteristics of the balcony. In total, there are two options for carrying out work and using materials:

  • Painting.

The easiest way to waterproof the balcony yourself. Most often used to create a moisture-repellent layer from the inside of the loggia. In this case, bituminous mastics are used for waterproofing, which must be diluted before use. Apply to the surface inside the covered balcony with a paint brush.

However, their level of protection is not enough for exterior decoration. Mastics are divided into two types - powder and coating. The former are sold in the form of a powder of quartz sand, cement, etc., diluted with water or special solutions. The second type is applied in the likeness regular paint needs to be warmed up a bit before use.

  • Roll.

The application process is characterized by increased complexity and requires special knowledge, therefore it is not recommended to do the roll laying of the waterproofing layer with your own hands. Most effective for exterior decoration. Bituminous rolls of a certain size are laid on the surface and cauterized to it using a special device. Thanks to "gluing" with the concrete surface, the moisture-proof layer serves the longest and most efficiently. However, it is difficult to install any exterior finishes on top of the bituminous sheet, so this method is most often used for waterproofing the floor on an open balcony and roofs.

  • penetrating.

They are the most resistant to moisture, mainly applied in the crevices between the wall and window frame, in cracks, seams.

Training

In addition to purchasing all the necessary mastics, it is necessary to completely clean the balcony. If any sheathing was installed on the floor, walls, ceiling, then before starting work it will need to be completely dismantled, leaving bare concrete. Then you need to check the quality of the concrete slabs themselves. If any defects are found on them (cracks, mold, irregularities, etc.), then they must be completely eliminated by covering them with plaster or removing damaged areas (in the case of irregularities). After completion of work, dust and dirt are completely removed, and concrete can also be treated with special antiseptics.

If the walls, floor and ceiling are rotten to such an extent that rusty sections of the reinforcement are visible, then they should be completely cleaned of rust as much as possible, and then apply special protective compounds for metals. Too large cracks will have to be expanded and filled with a screed. Small cracks can be filled ordinary plaster. All large irregularities are also removed with a spatula and cavities are smeared.

If the concrete slab is damaged too badly, it will have to be replaced completely, but this is most often found only in old and dilapidated houses.

Provided that all preparatory procedures have been carried out, mastics and sheets will lie more tightly and evenly on the surface, thereby making the coating more durable and of high quality. High-quality waterproofing of the floor of an open balcony is especially relevant if it is located above the bay window of the neighbors below. Nobody wants to flood them.

Waterproofing process

The application of the moisture-repellent layer may differ depending on the surface on which it is applied. Also, the stages of preparatory work may differ slightly.

Floor insulation

If the balcony is located above the dwelling, then its floor must be waterproofed, because. condensation accumulates on it, which can collect on the floor due to temperature differences and slowly destroy it.

Waterproofing the floor on an open balcony may involve the installation of a special floor screed with a slope of about 1-2% - this is required for the free flow of excess moisture. It is desirable to reinforce it with a metal mesh (especially if it is planned to install insulation, decorative tiles, etc.). The screed must be divided into seams, which are of the following types:

  1. Temperature - is formed when laying the pressure layer.
  2. Wall mounted. It is located at the junction of the balcony slab to the facade slab, most suitable for small loggias.

Waterproofing an open balcony under tiles requires that the resulting seams be approximately half (maybe a little more or less) filled with moisture-proof mastic. Then insulation is added to the remaining space (if necessary) or it is simply poured with concrete, then tiles are laid on top.

You can also go the easy way - either bituminous sheets are laid on the cleaned and repaired concrete slab, or mastic is applied. In the first case, it is advisable to entrust the matter to a specialist, because. the sheets may need to be “burned” to the floor. In the second, you need to go to the walls 15-20 cm up.

ceiling insulation

The ceiling on an open-type balcony can also be waterproofed by painting it with mastic. If necessary, an additional film is applied so that the mastic does not flow from the ceiling.

But more often, ordinary mastic is applied to the ceiling, which has time to soak into the concrete. Application takes place in four stages:

  1. The ceiling is cleaned and slightly moistened.
  2. The first thin layer of mastic is applied.
  3. After it dries, it needs to be slightly moistened.
  4. The second layer is applied. After that, it is desirable to moisten the ceiling 2-3 times a day for 2-3 days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5auk96rpDA Video can "t be loaded: Resitrix / Resitrix balcony waterproofing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5auk96rpDA)