Do-it-yourself joint summer shower. Do-it-yourself summer shower from corrugated board

You can’t argue about the need to build a toilet in a summer cottage. Installing a summer shower in the country is also an equally important and necessary part of comfort. But buildings built separately take up a lot of space, and if the summer cottage is small, then they try to build them in small sizes. This option is inconvenient and uncomfortable. To solve this problem, you can build a toilet and a shower combined in one building with your own hands.

Features of design and operation

The main feature of the design of the toilet with a shower is a single building and a common dividing wall. Each room is equipped with a separate door.

The design of the toilet, separated from the shower room, is equipped with a tank for storing and supplying water. Plastic pipes supplying water are connected to this tank. In the shower room, the tube is connected to a watering can. Adjustment of water supply is carried out using a tap. It enters the toilet room through pipes that are connected to the washbasin and toilet bowl. In the latter case, it is supplied when installing the appropriate plumbing.

Such a construction saves the territory of the cottage

The cesspool should be located no closer than 15 m from a well or water well. The most acceptable distance is 25 m. This is necessary to avoid the possibility of getting foreign matter to the water used.

When choosing a site for the construction of this structure, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of access for sewers to pump out sewage. If the cesspool is deep and wide, it will take longer to fill. We must not forget to equip it with a hatch to drain the contents.

If the pit is located closer than 15 m from a well or water supply station, its walls and bottom must be carefully sealed.

Advantages and disadvantages over separate structures

The following criteria should be included in the parity property:

1. It is more expedient to design the construction of a toilet and a summer shower in one building. Each meter of land in a summer cottage is fertile soil, where you can grow vegetables, plant a tree or break a flower bed. The construction of separate structures will take up much more space than a single frame.
2. During the construction of individual structures, a larger amount of material is needed, since each of them requires an individual foundation, a roof and the construction of additional walls (in the combined version, only a partition wall is needed). This will also affect financial costs.
3. The construction of a combined toilet and shower will reduce the construction time, since in this case, work is being done for both structures at the same time.
4. If you build everything separately, then for both structures you need to equip your own drain pit. In addition, the walls of each of them must be reinforced with bricks, roofing felt, slate or concrete, which will additionally entail financial waste.

The disadvantages include the following points:

1. Unpleasant smell from the cesspool, the risk of contamination of soil and groundwater with sewage, as well as the high cost of pumping out its contents.
2. If you do not connect a pump to the summer shower tank, then in order to swim, you will have to carry water in buckets and pour it with your hands into a container on the roof.
3. In the absence of sunlight, water will not heat up well in all seasons. And in order for it to become warm on hot days, it must be prepared in advance.

Preparation of a project for a shower room combined with a bathroom

The design of a combined toilet with a shower should, above all, be functional and comfortable. It is designed in any shape, size and color. Comfortable to use will be a house with a size of 2750x200x2520 mm. In such rooms it is convenient to install rectangular benches and shelves. It is not difficult to build a frame of this form. The diagram and drawing below show the optimal parameters for the construction of this structure.

Optimal parameters presented

Here is a separate toilet with a shower in one building. The structure is located on a columnar foundation. Its dimensions make it convenient to use the structure for its intended purpose. The shower and toilet rooms are large enough to accommodate additional furniture and plumbing. In the toilet, you can place a washbasin and shelves, and in the shower room - benches and a bathing cabin. With a width of 130 cm and a length of 200 cm, each room will not be crowded. The height of 2.5 m makes it possible to use this building even for a very tall person.

The length and width of the structure is selected individually

If the door opens as shown in the drawing, then it is better to place the washbasin on the right side. In this case, when entering and leaving the toilet room, the sink will not interfere. The bench in the shower room can be installed in the same way.

Material selection

For the construction of a toilet with a shower, various materials are used. In our case, it will be a frame structure on a columnar foundation with a gable roof. For frame building a deep foundation is not needed, as it has a relatively small weight. Thanks to the pillars, the structure will rise above the ground. This will protect the lower trim of the structure from dampness and fungus. Water will not linger under the base. A gable roof will allow you to equip a cold attic for household needs. Water from such a roof flows faster than from a shed.

When purchasing bars and boards, you need to take into account their humidity, the degree of which should not exceed 22%. To determine this, use a needle moisture meter.

To build a country toilet with a shower, you need to prepare the following materials:

• For the lower and upper strapping: four beams 2750 mm long and the same number - 2000 mm each, all with a section of 100x100 mm;
• For vertical supports, bars with a section of 50x100 mm are needed, in the amount of 24 pieces, each of which is 200 cm long;
• Wooden edged boards with a section of 10x100 mm, for lathing;
• Bars with a section of 50x100 mm, 200 cm long, in the amount of 12 pcs. - for the roof frame;
• For flooring (in the toilet), boards with a section of 40x150 mm are required in the amount of (minimum) 20 pieces. OSB sheets are used as a finishing floor;
• If the floors in the shower room will be covered with tiles, then an amount equal to 2 m² is required;
• Plastic pipes and sewer drain;
• Concrete mix (M-200) in the amount of one and a half cube;
• Plywood sheets for the manufacture of formwork;
• Sand and gravel;
• Metal tile.

All wooden elements must be free of knots, cracks, mold and insect damage.

• Sheets of plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or OSB boards are used as a draft ceiling.
• For the convenience of fastening the bars, metal corners and plates are used.

Required Tools

When building a country toilet with a shower, you will need the following tools:

1. Shovel bayonet and shovel;
2. Electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
3. Concrete mixer;
4. Electric welding machine;
5. Large container with water;
6. Buckets or a wheelbarrow for carrying concrete mix, gravel and sand;
7. Pliers and cutters.
8. Screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver.
9. Axe.
10. Hammer.
11. Building level.
12. Square.
13. Yardstick.
14. Cord.
15. Self-tapping screws and nails.
16. Plane.
17. Pencil.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building

When all the necessary materials have been purchased, and the tools have been prepared for work, you can start building a country toilet with a shower:

1. First you need to choose the right place for this structure. The site should not be in a lowland or pit.
2. For this building will be used columnar foundation. To install it, you need to make markings on the ground with a tape measure and a cord.
3. After that, it is necessary to dig a pit for a cesspool. Its depth should be from 1.5 to 2 meters or more. The width and length of the pit can be different. Usually these values ​​\u200b\u200bare equal to 100x150 cm.

   The cesspool can be either round or square.

4. Once the hole is dug, it needs to be reinforced. To do this, we lay out the walls of the pit with bricks. We use cement mortar as an adhesive.
5. When the walls are ready, cover the bottom of the pit with a mixture of sand and gravel, and then concrete. The result is a concrete container that does not let the contents through its walls.

   Brickwork will prevent soil and groundwater pollution

6. Next, you need to install a columnar foundation. To do this, we dig holes 80 cm deep and 20 cm in diameter.
7. Their bottom should first be covered with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, which must be compacted.
8. On top of the sand, pour a layer of gravel 10 cm thick, which must also be carefully compressed.

   The correct foundation device will create a rigid foundation for the structure.

9. After that, from plywood sheets or boards, you need to make formwork for pillars, which should rise 30 cm above the ground.
10. Insert 3 to 5 rebars in the middle of the hole to strengthen the concrete. Connect the elements of the metal frame with a wire.
11. Mix concrete and pour it into the formwork. In case of construction works in hot weather, formwork with uncured concrete must be covered with something. If this is not done, the concrete may crack.
12. Leave the future foundation for a couple of days to solidify.
13. After the specified time, remove the formwork.

    The formwork gave the column a square shape, and the metal reinforcement - strength

14. Next, you need to install a drain pipe under the shower. Place the drain in the specified place, and bring the other end of the pipe out.

    Thanks to the removal of wastewater, moisture will not accumulate under the shower

15. For the lower trim, use bars with a section of 100x100 mm. Connect wooden elements in a half-tree way. Lay two layers of roofing material between the wood and the concrete pillar. Connect the frame with a concrete base to metal studs with nuts.
16. Use a metal channel as a frame above the cesspool.
17. Now you can move on to the construction of frame walls. To do this, you need to install bars with a section of 50x100 mm in the corners. Check their vertical position using the building level. As connections, vertical supports and bottom strapping, use metal corners and plates.

    The ends of the beams are connected in a way in half a tree

18. In the frame, install two pillars 1960 mm high in place of the doors. Make the distance between them 770 mm.
19. After all the vertical supports are installed, it is necessary to make the upper harness from the bars with a section of 100x100 mm. Fix it to metal plates and corners with self-tapping screws.

    Wooden braces temporarily strengthen the structure

20. On the upper harness, in the middle, install three vertical racks, on top of which to fix the ridge board.

    The height of the pillars will determine the angle of the roof

21. From boards with a section of 10x40 mm, make rafters for gable roof in increments of 65 cm. The length of the rafter legs should be 20 cm longer than the edges of the walls of the structure. Fix all elements with self-tapping screws.
22. Then from edged board make a crate in increments of 20 to 30 cm. Connect it to each other on the ridge element. The length of the boards should be selected so that they protrude by 20 cm.

    The protruding parts of the crate will serve as a visor for the construction

23. Nail the wind boards. Cover the roof with sheets of metal tiles, which are fixed to the crate with self-tapping screws. A vapor barrier layer is not provided for this design, since it will not be heated.
24. Now move on to installing the floor in the toilet. Cut the bars of the desired length from boards with a thickness of 40 mm, which are fixed on the bottom trim with self-tapping screws. The length of the floor from the entrance to the pedestal with the seat is 100 cm.
25. Cut 5 bars 40 cm long, and use metal corners and self-tapping screws to screw them to the floorboard. Parallel to them, also install 5 vertical bars on the channel, connecting them with the same boards. Attach the same bars to the side supports (of the future toilet room) and the back ones. As a result, you should get a frame that looks like a large step. This design from wooden beams intended for a pedestal.

    This design is reinforced with metal corners, which make it more durable.

26. Sheathe it with a board 20 mm thick. Then you need to insulate the walls of the toilet and shower. For this inside upholster the frame of the structure with boards 20 mm thick. Then, between each vertical support, firmly insert foam plates 10 mm thick. Fill the gaps between them with mounting foam. It is also necessary to insulate the ceiling.

    Styrofoam will reliably protect the walls from cold and heat

27. Then you need to upholster the outer walls and the inside of the ceiling with boards 20 mm thick.
28. Now you can start building the soul. In order for the water to go into the ground not under the building, you need to make a drain system. To do this, dig a small ditch into which to lay the usual sewer pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. One end of this pipe should lead to a right-angled outlet, for connection to the sewer drain.
29. Cover it with polyethylene and attach to the pipe.
30. In the shower room, fill the floors with a layer of rubble. This is necessary in order to spend less concrete. Crushed stone must be positioned so that its level around the drain is less than along the perimeter.
31. Top with concrete and level it. As a result, the surface along the entire perimeter will have a uniform descent to the place of drainage for water. This base should be without pits and protrusions so that it flows freely.

    Slope of the floor towards the drain

32. wait until concrete base harden, and then cover it with a layer of bitumen-rubber mastic. Before use, it must be heated to a liquid mass. Then, using a brush, apply to a dry and dust-free concrete floor. In the same way, it is necessary to process the lower trim of the structure.
33. When the mastic hardens and cools, you can proceed to install the wooden floor in the shower. To do this, it is necessary to cut boards 40 mm thick into fragments 137 cm long.
34. Lay the indicated boards on the strapping and fasten with self-tapping screws. In order for water to leave through the floor, it is necessary to leave a distance of 15 to 20 mm between the wood.

    The gaps between the boards contribute to a better outflow of water.

35. Upholster the inside of the shower room with boards 20 mm thick. Treat everything with a moisture barrier. Cover the entire shower with yacht varnish in two layers. After the first time, let it dry and only then proceed to the second application. Beat everything with the same boards external walls the buildings.
36. Using a grinder, clean the wooden surfaces of the shower and toilet.
37. Then you need to secure the foundation from water flows. To do this, you need to install a drainage system. Attach drain channels to the edges of the rafters, to which drain pipes are installed on each side.

    Thanks to pipes and gutters, water will not accumulate near the walls of the structure

38. Now you need to pay attention to ventilation in the toilet and its pit. To do this, you need to make a hole with a diameter of 10 cm in the lid of the cesspool section, into which to insert a plastic pipe. Its height must be made 70–100 cm higher than the ridge part of the roof.
39. For ventilation in the toilet room, it is necessary to drill a hole in its wall with a diameter of also 10 cm. Insert a plastic pipe into it and lead it parallel to the previous one. On top of each pipe, fix umbrellas from precipitation.

    Installation ventilation system will create conditions for the release of methane

40. To use the country shower and toilet in the dark, it is necessary to conduct electricity. To do this, drill a hole in the partition between the toilet and the shower, into which to lead the wires and connect them to the junction box. Attach the lamp to the ceiling and screw the cover of the closed type. Put the switch on the wall. Do this in both rooms.

    Wiring connections must be carefully insulated from moisture.

41. Now we need to install the doors. They must be treated with the same compounds and varnish as the shower room.

Installation and nuances of use in the country

When the design of the country toilet and shower has been erected, you can proceed to the direct installation of a water barrel, attaching a tube with a shower head to it. It is also necessary to install a place for a seat in the toilet.

Most suitable for installing a water barrel flat roof. Since in our case it is gable, it is necessary to build a stand for this container. It must be made from metal pipes, a channel or a corner, using electric welding. In our case, a metal corner with sides of 50 mm and a thickness of 3 mm was used. To strengthen the structure, it is necessary to weld the amplifiers perpendicularly, every 100 cm. The total length of the frame is 4 m. The result should be a solid stand in the form of a tripod. Then, near the shower wall, drill three holes 1 m deep. Lower the tripod into them and pour concrete.

In order to save material, the frame is made of three metal corners

As a barrel for water, a plastic container 20 cm high, 100 cm long and wide was used. Due to the small height, the water in such a container heats up quite quickly from the sun's rays. Under it, you need to make a wooden frame. In our case, it is made of bars with a section of 50x50 cm, 100 cm each. It is necessary to connect their ends in a half-tree way and secure with self-tapping screws.

The shape of this tank holds a lot of water, which quickly heats up in the sun.

The wooden frame must be attached to the rack with self-tapping screws.

Now you can proceed to the installation of pipes for the shower. For this, it is better to use plastic ones with a diameter of 25 mm. Carefully drill a similar hole in the barrel, into which, using locknuts and rubber seals, install the fitting. Attach a pipe to it, in which, after 50–60 cm, connect a ball valve. It is necessary to shut off the water in case of any repair or construction work. Then drill a hole in the ceiling and stick a pipe into it. Using tees and fittings, place it in the shower. Install a watering can with a tap in the tube under the ceiling.

Now you need to install a seat in the toilet. To make an even hole, you need to attach a bucket to the middle of the pedestal and circle it with a pencil. Using a jigsaw, cut a hole in the marked area.

The bucket will hide the edges of the hole

Insert a bucket into it and fix it with self-tapping screws. When using the toilet in winter period, you need to purchase a foam seat. In any weather, it will be warm, which is important for health.

The appearance of the finished building will fit well into the territory suburban area

Video: stages of construction of a country toilet with a shower under one roof

With little effort, you will build the necessary and convenient building with your own hands. Rest and living in the country will become much more comfortable. To swim after working in the garden on a hot day, you do not need to heat water and waste electricity. Thanks to various materials for exterior decoration, a toilet and a shower combined in one building will not disturb the architectural ensemble of summer cottages.

As Ostap Bender would say, a dacha shower is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a remedy of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who put off bathing after a weekend at the dacha until they arrive home go to the doctors about skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; data of a similar nature are not available for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower room, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. Having spent an amount that is 2-3 times less, or even completely from improvised materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bath procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is found - from a slimy konurka, the dream of a greedy dermatologist (there will be many patients, they will give money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the view of the building site to structures made of, for example, construction waste, at the sight of which the experienced designer nods his head knowingly, see fig.

But, characteristically, the medical correlation with the type of soul - purchased, different price categories, or homemade, can not be traced. A “super-duper firm” for 70-100 “sput”, with automation and touch-remote control, can turn out to be a hotbed of infection, and a shower concocted from a kondachka in the country will faithfully guard the cleanliness and health of the owners long years and decades.

Do-it-yourselfers with manufacturers are not to blame here; and that, and others efforts, skills and considerations do not occupy. It's simple - no one really knows how to do it, a country shower. If there are any regulatory rules for its construction, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It's clear what to do country shower you need to be correct in essence, i.e. so that it does not infect, but does not infect, and so that the contents of wastewater do not kill the earth and spoil the crop, but how? It's dark here, like in Khrushchev's bathroom, when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is supposed to be 2 cubic meters. m, but this is with the standard volume of flow, and in the country it is many times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is disgusting, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry closets) allow you to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the toilet, but the processes in the cesspool do not fundamentally change. What volume and design do you need a cesspool for an outdoor shower? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other components and structural elements. In fact, whoever wants to make a country shower competently, they pull the norm from there, then from there, and there - maybe they will all come together. Or maybe they will disperse, and the byaka will come out.

Well, let's try to include what Mother Nature of the American President still has a little to say in the end: "Well, at least I've found a good ideal!". We will design a summer shower for ourselves, based on the principles:

• Hygiene - neither the shower itself nor the water for it should harm those washing, only benefit.
• Environmental friendliness - the drain from the shower should not harm the environment either in the near (in the form of compliance with the harvest from the site sanitary standards), nor in the distant (in the form of water quality from local water supply sources) perspective, in space and time.
• Practicality, it is also functionality - it should not only be possible, but it should be pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the country.
• Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a summer residence should at least not spoil landscape design site, but, preferably, organically fit into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, collapsible or not conspicuous.
• Profitability - the construction of a shower should take a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, without compromising any of the previous qualities.

We will use the existing norms and rules, but for verification, so as not to fantasize nonsense. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. Data in normative documents- the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single set of them for country showers, you will have to turn to the basics. To properly build a shower, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle, then it will be easier. Realistically, in this order:

1. Base.
2. Stock and cesspool.
3. Design choice.
4. The possibility of combining functions (shower, combined with a toilet, etc.)
5. Floor, pallet and platform.
6. Cabin - frame, walls, etc.
7. Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, valves.
8. Additional equipment - water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. When it is violated, the case no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but of such things as pneumonia. A heated shower means more than just hot or warm water.

Let's say it's +13 outside, but you need to wash. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: there will be only sense from warming (may the readers forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washing room. Without them, you will have to tremble and shiver for 2-5 minutes until the heat of the spray from the watering can heats up the cabin. And in the meantime and hot water may end, the tank is not vat.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the bottom and top. How to achieve this, we'll see when it comes to additional equipment; for now, as they say, we will tie a knot.

child question

Why is the shower separate? In the apartment he is together. Then, that summer cottages are not equipped with sewage. Here it is appropriate to recall the rule: the cesspool should be at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in miasma, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash away the foundation of the house with all that it implies. Set up a shower country house yet it is possible. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-weather.

Note: a bioseptic tank, which almost does not give harmful fumes, under certain conditions can be moved up to 4-5 m to the house. But this topic already applies to the arrangement of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

The need for a zero cycle of country-shower work is eliminated in the following cases, see fig. below:

• When a compact portable shower is used, on the left in fig.
• If the shower with adjacent outbuildings are ready-made modular, in the center in fig.
• If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes(propylene or PVC) with soft skin, right ibid.

A compact shower in a suitcase (on sale - a large selection) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in terms of water heating; it is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness with mobility is immediately lost. Capacity - rinse one or two. To this, a soul and a cesspool are not needed - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and no matter how they wash, the local ecology will digest such a volley discharge.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are supplied with adjustable legs, which, when installed permanently, allows compensating for current soil movements. Modular common areas are more familiar to citizens from public dry closets, but besides them and modular showers, kitchens, shelters, etc. are also produced, so that a full-fledged utility block can be assembled from the modules. Pleasure is by no means cheap, more modules are used to organize the amenities of professional mobile teams. A cesspool is not required, you only need to change the filler of the built-in septic tank in a timely manner.

Frames of soft showers are put on stakes driven into the ground from reinforcing bars. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but by self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because. the frame is lightly loaded and absolutely maintainable. Sheathing is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in the heat then the cabin is not so parky, in the cool it is warmer, and the tarpaulin, unlike the film, does not stick nasty to a wet body. Such a design will withstand a 12-point earthquake, if only the earth itself from under the shower has not gone anywhere. A cesspool is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it’s better to make a foundation, and put something more impressive and more attractive on it.

Under plastic

Build a shower cabin from light, resilient and chemically resistant materials with rigid sheathing (see below) is possible without a foundation, even on very heaving soil. So that it does not overturn, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-porous pillow is enough. Specifically - sand and gravel bedding in layers of equal thickness. The thickness of the pillow is approximate, in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages on meter-long black soil are not distinguished, so you won’t have to dig very deep, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 is gravel, this is the minimum. Suddenly, after the winter, it still warps, you can move the booth, align the pillow, and put it back as it was.

Note: a plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes put on fittings driven into the ground, like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, then the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the bottom of the pillow, and it is better, if local conditions allow, to the freezing depth, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

A shower made of wood, in principle, can also be placed simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then treatment with hot bitumen will protect the support frame and floor from decay for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can hold strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi with bacteria will get to where they stand and rub against bodies much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

an example of the implementation of the foundation for a country shower room

The means to ensure these requirements has long been known - a columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and freely "acting out" wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second is preferable. There is no need to buy expensive ones, it is better to get by with homemade hammers. Simply - with pipe segments with a diameter of 60-150 mm (if available) with ends flattened into a spear. Further - a sledgehammer or a home-made woman (it is much easier to work with her), and - to the estimated freezing depth for a given area.

Location of piles - 1 per corner and every full or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After cutting the protruding ends with a grinder at the hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; they are dressed and attracted by nuts with washers 40-60 mm in diameter, the lower support frame - the grillage.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drilled piles from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells go to the same freezing depth with a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage nozzle for it, with which wells are drilled under a strip-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcing piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to the indicated case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut in height with a grinder with a stone circle before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are immured to a depth of 120 mm.

Under the metal

Under the shower on a metal frame, the foundation is made the same as under a wooden one: if the wood rots, then the metal rusts. In this case, piles are preferably driven metal, and a grillage from a channel of 50-80 mm is welded to them.

Under the brick

A brick shower in the country is a rarity, laborious and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat it. It is enough to pass the return from the tank to the water heater through an old thin-walled heating radiator (see below), and in a closet with half-brick walls, insulation with 30 mm packing foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and a ceiling height of 2.2 m with +8 outside in 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not elastic, heavy, and therefore the foundation for a brick shower needs to be strong and stable. Since the structure in this case is small, the slab is optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs. monolithic foundation. Its device is simple: a solid (necessarily!) Reinforced concrete slab 170-300 mm thick is placed on the non-porous pillow described above and with a 0.3-0.5 m extension beyond the building contour, this will be a blind area.

Concrete brand of great importance does not have, the M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm from a 12 mm bar. If it is planned to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to pour the slab on the spot, encircling the recess under the barrel with formwork.

cesspool

As already mentioned, in order to maintain the biochemistry in the sewage pit necessary for the disposal of effluents to a naturally recyclable level of pollution, the moisture content in them must be kept within certain limits. For example, in the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks, it is clearly indicated: do not fill it, it will turn sour and stink. Do not let it dry out, the microflora will die, and generally stop working.

The fact that the drain from the shower is too liquid for a general cesspool in the country is obvious. But its chemical composition also matters: there is practically no household organic matter, a nutrient medium for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use the shower, like Polygraph Polygraphych Sharikov from "Heart of a Dog" uses the toilet. But in excess of alkalis (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc., which are harmful to them.

Therefore, to reduce drains from the shower and toilet in the country to a common pit is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry. The kitchen can still be combined with the toilet, but the shower must be taken separately to a special pit. In a city apartment, the matter is different: there, until the effluents reach the treatment facilities, everything will mix up and react so much that only the percentage composition for simple compounds and elements will matter. In any case, it is impossible to build a sewerage system separate for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: what kind of abominations do researchers not sometimes have to delve into, eh? But it's something necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: so what, take out the extra 2 cubes of soil? Since the septic tank does not recycle the shower drain? And the weaving of land disappears: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, consumer supervision will screech with a screech when the analysis is done.

Not at all necessary, given the time of heating the water following from it maximum frequency use of a country shower and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time flow). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to bring the runoff into the soil little by little, so that organic acids from the soil have time to neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer, so as not to kill the soil microanimal. And organic acids, a product of her vital activity, will seep from above.

Calculations, for a description of which, unfortunately, there is no space here, show that a drain of 100 l / h or 50 l in one gulp (for a country shower for normal users, this, as they say, is above the roof), must be discharged into the ground at a depth of at least in 2 thicknesses of the humus layer. Conclusion: an ordinary 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm will help us out. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a dacha, it is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will also do, if only its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (we take the tank capacity for it), and the height is at least 2 thicknesses of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the shell of the pit can be made from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically pour bleach into the pit, in the resulting side cavities, with frequent use, the wastewater will stagnate.

From theory to practice

It is not difficult to arrange a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel. First, we dig a pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the siphon spout to the neck of the barrel is not critical, the plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom is no longer needed, and we cut off a segment from the cover to make an inspection hatch; it needs a tight lid.

We install the barrel in the pit, backfill the soil. Next is the filter. We pour fine crushed stone into the cesspool with a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water, we shake 1-1.5 kg of any clay to “milk”, and pour the filling evenly with a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water leaves and the clay dries up, we stir up the filtering layer, often piercing it thickly with a pointed armature. It remains to weld the lid, and after the construction of the shower, insert it into the neck and seal the siphon spout with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and feed the drain from the kitchen here, it is more similar in bio- and simple chemistry to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: if construction is underway nearby, and the concrete mixer is free, you can knead porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of porous batch are simply dumped into the cesspool and leveled.

The smell from such a cesspool is excluded constructively. It is convenient to inspect and, suddenly, need to clean it, and the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; useful area, except for the one under the shower, is not withdrawn from economic use. At the dacha of the author of the article, a shower cesspool from a barrel has been working properly for almost 20 years. I didn’t need to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The inside of the barrel was overgrown with a dense layer of some chemical compounds, but it did not rust through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to the sanitation station, which invariably showed their full suitability for food. For the test, they scored a well for water 5 m from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower with toilet

A shower with a cesspool of this type can be placed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the dacha is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complicated and expensive septic tank, not to mention the antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool at all by arranging a powder closet. More precisely, powder sorter, because. it's a french idea. Sortie in French way out; toilet, respectively - a latrine. Powder closet can only be used in warm time years, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require a separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to arrange a shower area, and in what cases we can do without them, it's time to decide - what kind of shower will we do? Or buy? In general, the choice is:

• Compact portable shower.
• Street extension to the house.
• Garden cabin.
• Capital shower.
• Household complex in the shower.
• Shower room in the house.

Compact is not compact

A portable shower does not have to be carried everywhere with you. No one bothers to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers to fill the wineskin with hot water, heated on a fire or in a stove, immediately before washing. The only thing that is required additionally is a fence.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold, complete with the actual shower or as an option. But, frankly, the game is not worth the candle - a shower enclosure is easier to make yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option is a semicircular guide attached to the wall of the house, see Fig., And a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe, you can get by with propylene plumbing, put on all the same pins from reinforcing bars. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew a curtain from a colored tarpaulin (preferably also propylene); why - said above.

Cabin on the street

Users of "stationary" showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the waterskin for water needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters is not enough for one person, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower, and there is a drain problem. Usually it is solved by lowering water down a slope or a gutter into a flower bed, on the basis that the flowers are not eaten. But from the point of view of respect for nature, this is, of course, wrong. And the earth, if the shower is often used, can turn sour, and then the whole flower bed will disappear. It’s better to choose the time, on the lower edge of the sewer slope (usually the blind area of ​​​​the house) to mold a catcher from cement, and bury a 40-mm PVC sewer pipe into the ground to the sewer pit. For the one described above, one 3rd pipe is enough; its slope is needed 4-10 cm / m.

If you want to quickly and easily replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How the simplest one with rigid sheathing is made from a booth with a curtain is schematically shown in fig. Within the simplified blind area of ​​the building, only 60 cm wide, it turns out to be quite comfortable (passages 45 cm each, a semicircular washing room in terms of 60x120 cm) and a completely unpeepable booth. The material of the cladding and fences is any, sufficiently rigid and allowing some bending. Polycarbonate is best; it will be discussed further. In this case, the fence of the labyrinthine entrance can be bent, getting a completely elegant extension.

shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and attach: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with a soft opaque lining, see fig. Its highlight is that the cabin is put in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to carry it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will fully tolerate the increased flow.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on a foundation; it, as we will see below, may not be. There must be a dressing room in the capital shower room, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashion. However, when washing, it is not necessary to demonstrate models of swimsuits, coupled with graceful forms or a relief torso, as shown in advertising shots.

Washing completely without clothes is necessary primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and scars of clothing. Having become sour, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases just in those places where they are least wanted. According to the rules of field work in countries that make extensive use of seasonal migrant agricultural workers, i.e. unaccustomed to dig in the ground, after the shift, having washed, it is imperative to wear clean underwear. Outerwear can be left working, but underwear - only fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom dirt up to a centimeter thick is not yet dirt, and then it falls off on its own.

How a shower with a dressing room should be arranged is shown in fig; dimensions - in cm. A curtain protects clothes from splashes, and a lattice, wooden or made of propylene pipes on self-tapping screws, protects shoes from getting wet, see below. The curtain in this case is more suitable from the film - a tarpaulin that is not blown by the breeze will dry for a long time, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, then it may soak.

Note: for people of average height and build, so that, bending over the dropped soap, not to knock out the door and not break the walls with the fifth point, the size of the washing room in the plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be a large side.

All in one

The change house in the country does not play the same role as at the construction site and field work. In any case, the cesspool should be carried away from housing as far as the conditions on the site allow. And to have a meal, since you have already fled from the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and useful in the free air. Therefore, a kitchen with a veranda is often included in the composition of a country change house, along with a shower and a toilet.

The limiting, if I may say so, schemes for the arrangement of summer cottages are shown in fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet - powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Appointment - temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. Walls - from aerated concrete 75 mm + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is flat sloping slate. As a refuge, if there are a lot of people, a large shower room can also be used; the size of the kitchen allows you to build or put a wood-burning stove. It is built, with the average skill of the master and the presence of an assistant, over the weekend, except for the technological break for the curing of concrete and the time for finishing work.

Note joke: do not rush to build this, otherwise who knows when hands will reach a real house.

In the House

A country shower in a house, since it is in a residential area, must meet all the requirements of sanitation and hygiene. This is a separate topic, some features in relation to the cottage will be discussed later in the course of the presentation.

Floor, tray, grate

Floor

The floor in the country shower is made of wood; capital, as in a big house, is too laborious and expensive. In a cabin with dimensions up to 1.5x1.5 m, if a tongue-and-groove board is taken for flooring, logs are not needed. If the cabin is not square, the deck boards are cut to the size of the short side, so it will be stronger.

So that the tree does not rot from moisture, it, of course, needs to be processed. Nowadays, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with oil zinc or titanium white, etc. The preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to a double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; the second treatment can be done one hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for further processing in the evening if processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the morning of the next day.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. It is only necessary to read on the package whether the preparation is intended for impregnation under pressure, this is not suitable. It is desirable to impregnate in the sun in warm weather, allowing the boards to warm up for an hour or two.

After 3-4 hours after impregnation, acrylic varnish can be applied in 2 layers. The first will dry up in the evening, then you can varnish again. The next morning the floor can be laid. So, if you pick a nice day, a floor that lasts at least 10 years can be done in a weekend, and there's still time left.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you don't already know it, are low and high. The first fit into a cutout or recess in the floor, and the second is actually a standing bath: they are installed on legs and are equipped with a screen. Those and others come in sizes from 800x800 to 1580x1580mm, straight and angular, rounded or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Manufactured from acrylic or enameled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the second is cheaper.

For a cottage with a separate shower on the territory, a straight low shower tray is needed, see the figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

• Ease of installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cutout and immediately, until it has hardened, a pallet is laid; squeezed out excess foam is removed.
• Saving wood and work: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the width of the inside to the outer size of the pallet bath, we get rid of the flooring of most of the floor. It is enough to upholster the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not end up in a hole.
• Cheapness: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel pallet with careful use will last at least 15 years.
• Durability in suburban conditions: acrylic pallets in summer cottages do not withstand the estimated service life, because they are afraid of abrasive wear with sand, from which you can’t get anywhere outside the city.

Note: if the shower is with a dressing room, you can take a pallet 800x1000, see above. If in the country there are people with a corpulence above average, then the best would be a pallet 1200x1200

The country shower room in the house requires an already high pallet. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed according to the full pattern. Yes, and then the mortising and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus beat the channel for the sewer. Suddenly, the house has not yet been built, it is also not necessary to lay a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the lag installation step turns out to be too large for flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high pallet complete with a cabin and a screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower corner of the same overall dimensions takes up much less usable space in a small room and is even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for the installation, it is desirable to do it yourself. Firstly, the departure of the master out of town will be too expensive, his day disappears, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and runoff in the country are almost always non-standard, which will be even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

And the following is about the intricacies of precisely the corners:

In addition, before buying, you will need to familiarize yourself with the company instructions, because. installation methods for showers from different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate under your feet is a must so that your shoes do not get wet. In a washing room with a low tray, a grate above it is also highly desirable, because. due to the lack of a threshold, the risk of slipping and crashing when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from slats from 30x30 to 100x40 boards. The preparation of wood is the same as for the floor, but instead of varnishing, if funds allow, it is desirable to cover the grate with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs, then its resistance to wear by shoe soles will increase significantly. Yes, and for the floor, coating with a compound will not be superfluous; in this case, the pallet can not be sealed with foam, the thick mixture will tighten the gap.

The best, and if you take into account the price of varnish, then a cheaper grill is obtained from PP pipes assembled on self-tapping screws. Pipes are needed 1/2 "; installation step - 1.5 outer diameter. The pitch of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the grate, a little mounting foam is launched into all the gaping ends so that the grate inside does not sour from dampness.

Tank

The shower tank in the country house must be equipped with a sanitary drain with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in fig. It is placed at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least for a week), the tank is completely emptied through the drain. It is advisable to regularly, with the same frequency, drain the sludge and with constant use. Please note that in the country the probability of getting spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms into the tank is many times higher - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author knows the case when in the shower tank were found ... crucian piglets. They apparently fed on the larvae of mosquitoes, which swarmed there.

The second condition is that the selective pipe must be placed higher so that it splashes from the watering can pure water, not trash. Finally, if there is water heating in the tank, its thermosiphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater power will go to waste. That is, the hot water inlet should be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from the water supply, then it needs a float valve and an overflow with a cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bat least 2 of those of the supply pipe. Sufficient clearance is needed above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, without locking the water supply to the end. For such a case, a tank diagram with recommended dimensions is shown on the left in fig.

For a tank filled manually, the layout of the pipes changes, because. the water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition is that the hot water supply should be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the source of selection, and the mouth of the supply pipe should be moved away from the source of the outlet; selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sludge from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sediment does not clog the water heater.

What is he from?

Ready-made tanks for showers of different sizes, containers fully equipped with fittings, are commercially available in a wide range. But, since our task is to implement everything entirely with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common tanks of country showers are made from barrels laid on their side; then it is convenient to place a drainage system, and the flow of water into the sludge becomes minimal. In this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out in a 200-liter steel barrel and through it, after welding the pipes, the container is painted from the inside with yacht acrylic enamel or the same bath repair compound. An outdated long way - primed with a rust primer and painted with iron minium in oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but the problem of sealing the joints arises: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and to connect by soldering, as water pipes, it is forbidden. Fortunately, plastic barrels are produced with wide necks, through which it is possible to install M12-M16 threaded fittings with a flange and a rubber gasket, and outside - also with a gasket and a washer; everything is tightened with a nut. So that the pipe does not turn out with thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 outer diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: an alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself, for season 2-3 the joints leak.

About the tank from the old washer

It's no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old ones. washing machines. Their capacity is small, for 2-3 washings hastily, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, drainage is automatically obtained from the previous drain pipe, and the input-output of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamping for the gasket and holes for fasteners. By covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we get effective solar water heating (see below), because, repeatedly reflecting from the internal shiny walls, the solar radiation is almost completely absorbed by water.

Cabin

Grillage

The cabin support frame is most often made of wood; in the conditions of suburban operation, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but it will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, a 100x100 or even 60x60 timber is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for capital showers. Wood processing is generally the same as for the floor, only instead of varnishing it is impregnated twice or thrice with heated bituminous mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will provide a durability of at least 12 years; WPE, penetrating deeply into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the pallet tub, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of stock. So, for a low pallet, this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. need 2-3 more steps at the entrance.

frame

A wooden shower is assembled, as well as - on load-bearing poles, only the problems of the roof disappear: it either does not exist at all, or it is simply sloping. The frames of the walls are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or its own, spread in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cabin.

On the metal carcass usually there is a professional pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2. The profile frame is assembled by welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - on self-tapping screws - but they do not last long, this material is not intended for outdoor use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2″ and 3/4″ polypropylene water pipes. The assembly scheme is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, it is not required to solder the plastic, it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe enters them more tightly, and assemble them on self-tapping screws. In the shower, phosphated (black) ones hold better. Self-tapping screws diameter - 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not protrude and scratch.

sheathing

In general, any sheet finishing materials for outdoor use are suitable for shower sheathing: corrugated board, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, top row in pic; they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Of all the sheathing materials, polycarbonate stands out. Its main advantage is a self-heating shower made of polycarbonate. Features of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put, a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap at the bottom. Cellular polycarbonate was originally developed to cover greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cabin is sheathed on all sides, cramped, i.e. the area of ​​its glazing is large relative to the volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of the 2R structure with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for shower sheathing. You should not be afraid of peeping: especially for showers, milky, non-translucent, polycarbonate is produced.

The second important factor is that a honeycomb sheet, if it is oriented vertically with internal channels and bent, acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PNC): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very strong and light round cabin can be made on a frame from only 2 hoops, upper and lower, bent from PP pipe. The hoops will also be prestressed and add a lot of overall strength.

Finally, by tightly winding the sheet to the curvilinear template and heating for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bend of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular also for original frameless showers, see fig. on right.

Widely used for showers and old good tree, pre-treated, as for the floor, or even raw, at least in the form of wattle, the bottom row in fig. above. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for capital showers under the roof - wood holds heat well. Heat loss through wooden sheathing from a forty board is less than through a half-brick brick.

Note: it is undesirable to use laminated and modified wood materials for sheathing showers - plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF - they delaminate.

fittings

A garden shower is distinguished from an ordinary shower by a shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes a control valve, see fig. If there is hot water separately in the country house, then this one is not suitable - diffusers with a standard two-way valve are not on sale. However, it is easy to make a watering can with a valve yourself, it does not have any fundamental features. Other shut-off valves - any ordinary one, but pipelines are easier and cheaper to make flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and heating

Now let's finally figure out what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, heating the washing room will ensure that the return flow from the tank to the water heater passes through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of residential premises, this scheme is utter heresy, but in the soul it is quite efficient without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest water heating is provided by a low-power flow gas boiler or, if bottled gas, an electric boiler. We will leave one and the other, because. it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside of industrial conditions: a heating element with grounding is only a base, automatic temperature control is also needed, emergency from boiling up, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to scale buildup or sedimentation, and some other necessary little things.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, than from time immemorial and used by summer residents, is to heat water with the Sun. But the well-known bitumen-drenched tank is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (not selective) paint is black only in visible light, and IR reflects well.

2 ways of primitive solar water heating are shown in fig. on right. The first (left pos.) uses the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV). The latter carries a lot of energy, but you need a well-transmitting UV tank, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, on the right pos. the own heat capacity of the hose is used: when the water flows, it gives it the accumulated heat, so it is possible to get more warm water than it was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and pot

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and the season: clouds have come running - the water is cold, and you can get hot only in the very heat, when a little warm is enough. For good water heating, not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a shower water heater must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively large. An indispensable condition in order to “sew” these requirements is thermosyphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, and how to heat it is a second matter.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with an inclination, in the middle there; then the hot side must be raised above the cold side by at least the value of the inner diameter of the tube, otherwise internal convection may develop, boiling up and bursting even with a relatively small influx of energy.

In some cases, it is more convenient to have a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of "theromosiphonism" is observed here by the fact that the outlet (hot) pipe is located as high as possible above the cold one. In this case, sealing is needed complete, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

The hot water register can be built into a country heating and cooking stove, but this is already a question of how the stoves are arranged, and by and large, where the hot water goes then, the stove doesn’t care. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for a shower. In our latitudes for cooking, it does not matter, but the shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see Fig.) In the spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown on the next. rice. Material - any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector is certainly metal, it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, and household mirrors only the visible part. For IR, clouds are much more transparent, while UV carries a lot of energy even in small quantities.

The scheme of a stationary solar oven is more complicated, but much more efficient, is shown in the following. rice. The reflector is assembled from pieces (you can cut off) galvanized on silicone. Fragments of the reflector are installed one by one, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covered with something. For this furnace and the heat exchanger described before it, a compact one is required; it is placed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not that complicated and do not require any alignment. These are, in fact, blackened from the inside and glazed flat boxes or other containers in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; a coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in fig. Modern solar panels use truly space technologies, and some models in winter on a cloudy day at -20 outside give water to the system at a temperature of +70.

We do not need such super-efficiency, it is enough for us to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. The most unpretentious design, like those shown on the trail, will also cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in fig. below (on the top position - with an installation diagram and a use case for heating a house) - drawings of home-made solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; the heat exchanger is soldered from a copper tube. In the one below, a radiator from an old unusable refrigerator went to him; the dimensions of the box are adjusted to the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen in the country is gasified, anyway, from a mains or a cylinder, then you can heat water for a shower for nothing at any time of the year, in any weather, day or night. How? Due to waste heat (in essence - own heat loss) gas stove. To do this, the burners are circled with a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube, as shown in Fig; This method was invented back in Stalin's times, when the people heard that somewhere up there, at the top, a curiosity appeared - hot water in the tap.

To tilt the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil boils and bursts instantly! It is also necessary to withstand other dimensions so as not to burn or dry out the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else needs to be remembered is that the slope of the hot pipe should be greater than the cold one, and the coil heats up well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, it makes no sense to burn gas idly, you need to heat water during cooking. As a rule, in an hour of cooking dinner, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, let's mention one curiosity - a supposedly hydromassage shower. On fig. on the right is shown simplest model(the price, by the way, is not unpretentious - about 300 euros), but installations are produced with 6 and even 10 diffusers, loudly referred to as nozzles in advertising brochures.

Such scents are only a tribute to fashion, if not inventions of marketers of the consumer society; simply a split. For a real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone in conditions of hydroweightlessness, which cannot be without a bath with water.

In the summer, many people prefer to spend in the country. And this is not surprising, because it is here that you can hide from the bustle of the city and unbearable heat. But in order to stay in a country house as comfortable as possible, you need to think about the construction of such a structure as a country shower. To implement this idea, first of all, you need imagination, because the building should be not only practical, but also beautiful. In addition, it is necessary to decide on the materials from which the construction of the shower will be ordered, because this is one of the main components of the “issue price”.

Some shower stalls don’t even have to be built - they are delivered from the store ready-made

Pros and cons of a summer shower

Today, for arranging a summer cottage and at home, a summer shower of various designs is used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. This should be taken into account when choosing a design. Popular options include:

• Film shower. The design consists of metal and wooden elements, which are tightened with a film. The disadvantage of such a soul is its fragility. As for the pros, here you can highlight the ease of installation and mobility. If desired, it can be easily rearranged from one place to another. Often, metal corners are used for construction.
• Frame construction. The shower is a stable and monolithic product that has long term operation. The design is well ventilated, and the water heats up quickly. It is easy to apply and also comes off quickly. As for the shortcomings, it is worth highlighting the vulnerability from negative factors. environment. During operation, the design loses its attractive appearance.

One of the most durable solutions is a polycarbonate outdoor shower.

So, after analyzing all this, we can note several main advantages of a summer shower:

• profitability;
• ease of installation;
• practicality.

As for the shortcomings, among them one can distinguish the limitation of use. The fact is that in such structures water heating is most often carried out from solar energy. Therefore, they cannot be operated in the cold season or in bad weather.

Types of summer shower

For the manufacture of modern soul using different materials and technologies. When choosing, you should rely on financial capabilities and other equally important factors.

wooden shower

A wooden cabin is a popular and common option. This is due to the fact that it is very easy to perform. Ecologically used for construction pure material which has many advantages. The only drawback is the low resistance to moisture and insects. Therefore, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics. For construction, timber and boards are used. The best option coniferous wood will become, as it is highly resistant to a humid environment.

Combined options are often offered - a shower plus a toilet

A wooden shower in the country is performed in the following sequence:

• The shower is a frame structure, which consists of racks of a certain section. When choosing a bar, it is worth considering the load that will be created from the storage tank.
• Holes are dug under the racks, the depth of which is 80 cm. At the bottom, a pillow is made of crushed stone and sand, 10 cm thick.
• To protect the beam from rotting in the ground, it is coated with bitumen and wrapped with roofing material. After that, they are installed in the pit and leveled. Additional racks are installed at the door mounting points.
• From below and from above, the racks are connected by horizontal bars. For their fastening, bolts or corners are used.
• The sides of the booth are trimmed with a polished board. After that, all elements, including doors, are treated with paints and varnishes.

During construction, it is worth considering a way to drain waste water. As for its supply, storage tanks are installed on the roof, which have a different shape and volume.

You can order the construction of a full bathroom in the open air

Polycarbonate construction

This design is somewhat easier to build. To perform the work you need a welding machine. This is necessary for the construction of a metal frame. As racks, a profile is used, the cross section of which is 40x60mm. For strapping use smaller products.

The installation of the frame is carried out in a similar way. Racks are concreted in pits. Jumpers are attached between them, which will give rigidity to the structure, and will also be used to fasten polycarbonate. A solid frame is welded on top, on which a water tank will be installed. After that, the entire structure is covered with waterproof paint.

For finishing, opaque sheet polycarbonate is used, the thickness of which is from 6 to 10 mm. A circular saw is used to cut the material.

Polycarbonate shower warms up like a greenhouse

Shower from corrugated board

As a summer shower, you can also use a corrugated board structure. This material is lightweight and durable. For the construction of the frame, wooden blocks and a metal profile of a certain section are used.

The construction of the shower is carried out in a similar way. Racks are connected by a transverse profile, which will give the structure rigidity. To fix the finishing material, galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with sealing washers are used. Doors are a frame made of a profile, which is sheathed with corrugated board. To cut the material, use scissors for metal or a grinder with a toothed disk.

Neat booths made of corrugated board

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installation of metal structures. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

brick shower

To build a shower cabin of brick, you need to make a shallow foundation. To do this, a trench 20 cm wide and 40 cm deep is dug around the perimeter. To save on the construction of the base, broken brick or stone is thrown into the concrete mortar.

When the concrete hardens, laying on the cement mortar is performed. At the same time, a doorway of the required size is arranged. The door can be made of wood or a metal frame sheathed with corrugated board. Bars are laid on top of the masonry, which will serve as the basis for the roof and the installation of a water tank.

Brick is a capital building

Choosing a place on the site and arranging a base for an outdoor shower

When constructing a summer shower in the country, special attention is paid to the choice of location. It is worth considering some factors:

• Water should warm up well. Therefore, the structure is mounted in a sunny place. Trees and buildings will cast a shadow on the cabin, which will negatively affect solar heating.
• When choosing a place, it is worth considering your preferences. So, the structure can be placed near the house, in the garden or near the pool, if there is one on the site.
• It is better to install a shower cabin on a flat area, near which there is a place for water discharge. Otherwise, you will have to do complex wiring.
• The structure should be located near the house.

To do right choice, you need to carefully inspect your site. It is also worth considering the features of the construction of the soul. First of all, this concerns the need to build a base for the cabin.

Summer shower it makes sense to install only in an open sunny place

The foundation for an outdoor shower is arranged when it comes to a stationary structure that has significant weight. First of all, this applies to buildings made of bricks, blocks and other materials. A popular option is the arrangement of a tiled foundation, which will also serve as a floor in the cabin. The build process looks like this:

• Marking and cleaning of the place from thickets and debris.
• The pit breaks out. If we are talking about the construction of a brick cabin, then a pit 15 cm deep will be enough.
• A sand cushion no more than 5 cm high is laid on the bottom. It is carefully compacted.
• Concrete is being poured. The surface must be carefully leveled to avoid the need for floor screeding.

Also, for the construction of a summer shower, you can use a columnar and strip foundation. In the first case, with the help of a drill, holes are made 1 m deep, into which support pillars are subsequently installed. If hollow pipes are used for this, then they are poured with concrete mortar.

The foundation must provide holes for draining and supplying water.

Concerning strip foundation, then we are talking about a shallow structure. For the arrangement, you need a trench 40 cm deep and 20 cm wide. When pouring, reinforcement is performed with several reinforcement bars. This will give the structure durability and strength.

Shower cabin installation

A shower cabin in the country can be made on site or purchased at a store. Today, a wide range of ready-made structures is presented on the market. When choosing them, it is worth considering the following factors:

• Size. The shower cabin should be convenient to use for all family members. Therefore, it is worth relying on the most overall user.
• Material. The cabin should optimally fit into the landscape design. Also, the material must be highly resistant to negative environmental influences.
• Storage tank size. On average, one person consumes 35 liters of water while taking a shower. Therefore, when choosing a tank, you should rely on the number of family members. The container should have a small reserve stock.
• Price. There are designs on the market in a wide price range. So, you can purchase a product for 5 thousand rubles or for 15 thousand rubles.

Even the most economical option will be quite functional

The structure is installed on a flat prepared place. It is best to make a monolithic concrete platform, which will give stability to the cabin during operation. During the construction of the cabin, a number of specific processes are performed:

• plum arrangement;
• foundation construction, if necessary;
• the frame is being erected, and its finishing is being carried out;
• a tank is installed and connected to the water.

Construction features directly depend on the material used in the construction, as well as the preferences of the owner of a country house.

Video description

In the following video, you can evaluate 30 summer shower design ideas:

Summer shower insulation

Why insulate a simple summer shower if it is used in the warm season? The fact is that carrying out thermal insulation work will significantly extend the life of this structure. The main thing is to competently conduct insulation around the perimeter. For this use:

• Mineral wool. This is an environmentally friendly material that is very easy to install. The mats are laid in the frame, after which it is sheathed from the inside. To prevent moisture from entering the material, it is covered with an impervious film.

• Glass wool. If desired, it can be used to warm the shower in the country. Of course, when working with it, you need to be careful, and carefully follow the installation instructions.
• Waterproof foam. It is a modern material that is optimally suited for warming an outdoor shower. To do this, it is enough to use plates with a thickness of 5 cm. They fit into the frame, on top of which the interior walls are finished.

Insulation design allows you to use it even in bad weather. Of course, it should be understood that thermal insulation is relevant only in the case of closed showers.

Installation of a tank for a shower, water supply and heating

The choice of tank should be approached very carefully. In this case, it is worth considering some recommendations of professionals:

• Metal containers heat up faster in the sun. Plastic containers are distinguished by their durability, due to resistance to corrosive processes. They also have a small weight, which will reduce the load on the frame.
• The water tank should be painted in a dark color, which will speed up the heating. This is ensured by better heat absorption.

Most often, the shower tank is dark in color.

• The tank must be sealed to prevent dust and dirt from entering the water.
• Before installation, holes are made in the tank for a tap and a water supply.

Today in the store you can find ready-made designs that have a watering can, tube, faucet and fittings in their kit. A sensor for monitoring the water level and its temperature will not be superfluous. The container is installed and fixed on the prepared frame.

Water pipes are used to supply water to the shower:

• A trench is being dug at the pipeline site. Its depth should be greater than the level of soil freezing. This will protect the system from frost.
• The pipeline is being assembled. Particular attention is paid to the junction of pipes. They must be tight and reliable. At the end of the line, a water tap is installed, with the help of which water will be supplied to the pipeline.
• The pipeline is insulated mineral wool and placed in a trench. If it is necessary to supply electricity, the electrical cable is buried in the same trench with the pipe. This will make the job easier.

At the final stage, the pipeline is connected to the water source and to the storage tank. In the latter case, polyethylene pipes or a garden hose can be used.

Water tanks can be installed separately - in this case, you can increase the volume of heated water

If necessary, the garden shower can have independent water heating. A common option is to install heating elements. Also, heating is carried out using a boiler or a gas boiler of low power. When installing these heating elements, safety requirements should be taken into account.

Solar panels are also used for heating. This is a glass box with a coil inside. With its help, a greenhouse effect is created, which leads to water heating.

Video description

And a few more options for arranging a summer shower in the following video:

Organization of water drainage in the summer shower

There are several ways to arrange a drain in a summer shower. So, water can be diverted into a filtration well or into a filtration field. In the latter version, channels are arranged between the beds. This will allow you to simultaneously irrigate the site at no extra cost.

Withdrawal is carried out in an open and closed way. In the first option, ditches are made at a slight slope from the collection point. Often this option is used on moisture-resistant soils. The closed method involves laying pipes in the ground.

It is necessary to decide where the used water will drain, given that it will be soapy

Conclusion

A summer shower in the country is an inexpensive, but in any case, a useful design that is quite simple and does not take long to install. Even if you have not quite decided on the material and design, you can always additionally consult with a manager in a store or a construction company who will tell you incomprehensible nuances and help you make the right choice.

Dacha is the dream of almost any resident of the metropolis. Many townspeople enjoy spending part of their holidays and weekends at the dacha. They are happy to work in the garden, the garden, the arrangement of the dacha itself: this is how they are distracted from the noisy city bustle. It is good if the site is located near rivers, reservoirs. The rest have to build their own country shower cabin on the site, equipping it with heating and a locker room. How to do it yourself, we will talk in this material.

The choice of materials for a country shower

A country shower with heating and a dressing room is not so difficult to build. But how great it is to swim after a hard day in comfortable conditions. It's worth it to spend a little time and effort, and for your own convenience. At the same time, it is absolutely not necessary to spend a large amount of money on the construction and equipment of the structure.

For a summer shower, you can choose practical and not the most expensive materials. First, cement mortar is required. It is better to install more massive structures on a flood foundation; for light models, you can choose a pile option.

When choosing materials, you should be guided by the features of the work. For a small foundation pit, a shovel, which is available in every house, is enough for pouring the foundation. For pile structures, narrow but deep pits will be required, which are dug using special electric or pneumatic tools.

Choosing suitable material, take into account not only its cost, but also the characteristics and requirements regarding preparation and care (impregnation protective equipment, the need for timely ventilation, etc.).

What material to build a summer shower

• brickwork is not the cheapest option, but the most durable of all. If you still have a brick from building a house, then choose this option. Such a shower with a dressing room and heating will stand for a long time;

brick building

• you can often find wooden shower buildings in the country. Natural wood is eco-friendly, looks spectacular against the backdrop of nature and has quite acceptable strength. But here it is important to remember: to ensure the durability of the building, it is necessary to provide high-quality ventilation of the shower cabin. For this purpose, during construction, wide gaps are specially left in the floor and walls. The disadvantage of this option is that in windy weather or when it gets cold, it will blow from these slots. In addition, it is necessary to treat the wood with a flame retardant (flame retardant) to protect it from fire, because the building is equipped with heating devices (electric or fuel);
• a modern version - a garden shower with a locker room and heating made of polycarbonate. This material has a lot of advantages: with a small weight of the sheets, their cellular structure provides high strength. In addition, polycarbonate does not change its properties under the influence of natural factors. Ease of cutting and installation are also convincing arguments in favor of this material. Thanks to the mass of pluses, it is quite convenient to work with polycarbonate even for those who first took this material in their hands;
• an outdoor shower is quite often built from plywood. This material is inferior in strength to the boards, but it is also much cheaper. Plywood also needs to be treated to resist fire, moisture, and rot;
• slate with a straight surface can also be used to build a country shower. It is more difficult to work with it when cutting material, but it has strength and durability, is not afraid of moisture, therefore it is quite suitable for building a shower cabin;
• sheet plastic is a moisture-resistant material that allows you to build a summer country shower with heating and a locker room on your own in the shortest possible time. On sale there are varieties with different characteristics. When choosing, you should pay attention to strength, possible temperature range, lack of toxicity, including the release of harmful substances when heated;

Plastic shower

• it is also possible to use corrugated board or siding.

Everything sheet materials used as framing. The frame itself can be made of wooden beams, metal pipes or profiles. The upper flooring, on which the water tank will be placed, deserves special attention. It must rest securely on the vertical parts of the frame and have sufficient strength to support the weight to the brim of the filled tank.

Heated tank options

The tank, that is, the water tank, is selected based on how many people will use the shower. If few people come to the dacha, then there is no need for a large tank. The compact tank is easy to install, weighs a little, so it heats the water faster. For washing 1-2 people this is enough.

There are several types of tanks for giving, depending on the material of their manufacture:

• carbon metal. This material is quickly covered with rust, so its surface must be enamelled. Its disadvantage is that with the slightest damage, corrosion develops over time, and leaks form. Such a tank is not at all the best choice;

Carbon steel tank

• stainless steel. This material is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, but it has another disadvantage - a lot of weight, which makes it necessary to build a more durable frame.
• galvanized steel. The coating lasts longer than black steel, but is also short-lived.
• plastic. Nowadays, country showers are increasingly made of plastic. Its basis is food polyethylene. Light weight, different colors, fast heating - all these are the advantages of plastic tanks for a country shower.

Heating methods

There are two ways to equip a shower with heating:

• use solar energy;
• apply a heating element- TEN.

For a summer residence, which is visited mainly in hot weather, an option with natural heating is suitable. To increase the effectiveness of the sun's exposure to the water tank, choose a black container.

Artificial heating is carried out by such a device as a heating element. This accessory is sold separately, so you can equip the shower yourself with it. At the same time, you can purchase a ready-made container with a heating element already installed. Its advantage is in the quality of the installation, as well as the ability to purchase a tank with a thermostat.

Tank with heating element

You yourself set the temperature to which the water will warm up. Mount two containers on the roof, one of which will be with a heating element, and the second without a heating device. So by mixing water, you can use your wooden or polycarbonate shower any time of the year.

Dressing room blueprint

First you need to choose a place where the shower will be installed. It is best to put it on the edge of the site in a well-lit place on a small hill. The optimal height is 2-3 meters.

Drawing of a street building

The space that the cabin itself will occupy must be at least 100x100 cm. Together with the dressing room, its standard dimensions can be 160x100 cm or a little more.

Having decided on the place, you can begin to develop the project. Despite the simplicity of the design, it is better to put your idea on paper first. This makes it easier to identify bottlenecks and calculate the amount of materials needed.

DIY construction

The process of building a summer shower on the street begins with the preparation of frame parts. It is better to build it from a pine board. You will need:

• 4 horizontal frame parts (20x90x664 mm);
• Vertical jumper (20x90-664 mm);
• 2 lattice boards (15x90x700 mm);
• 7 planks (15x90x700mm);
• 4 vertical parts (20x40x1820 mm);
• 4 links (transverse) (20x40x1820 mm);
• hose support (20x40x160 mm);
• 8 fixing strips (20x40x660 mm).

It is also necessary to prepare the following details for the construction of the shower:

• shower head (with external thread) with mounting plate;
• connecting element with internal thread;
• couplings for connecting a shower to a watering hose (4 pcs.);
• shut-off valve;
• clamps (6 pcs.);
• loops 25x180 mm (4 pcs.);
• wood glue;
• long bolts, nuts, screws.

Construction must begin with the installation of support pillars. Then the frame is assembled separately and mounted on supports. It is recommended to use long bolts as frame fasteners, since the structure must withstand the load from a filled water tank.

How to make a floor

The floor can be made of boards, fitting them to each other not very tightly so that the water leaves the booth through the cracks. But the disadvantage of this option is that cold air will flow from under the floor. It is better to use a ready-made shower tray. A hose is connected to the drain (water supply) hole, through which water will be discharged to a place intended for draining.

Foundation laying

Space demarcation

An outdoor shower can be separated: one part can be allocated for the locker room and blocked with a plastic curtain, and the second can be made directly as a shower. The second option is to install a partition made of moisture-resistant plywood or polycarbonate between these rooms.

Wall cladding and door installation

It is not necessary to install a door from the locker room to the shower - it is enough to hang a curtain made of waterproof material. However, if you have laid a wooden floor, then it is better to build a high threshold between the shower room and the dressing room.

The outer door must close tightly. However, a well-fitted door can swell with moisture, and then it will jam. To prevent this from happening, a gap must be provided between the door frame and the door, which will be blocked by a sealant attached along the contour door leaf or frames.

The frame can be sheathed with polycarbonate. The shower cabin will be bright enough. You can also sew up the walls with siding or clapboard, but then you have to arrange artificial lighting.

Electricity supply

To connect the heating elements to the mains, it is better to call an electrician who will select the desired wire section and do everything necessary to ensure safe operation device. An inexperienced person should not undertake this part of the work.

Electricity supply

As you can see, building a summer shower with a dressing room and heating is not so difficult task if there is a desire and an opportunity to make such a shower with your own hands. For this you need:

1. Decide on the model of the soul;
2. Choose a method of heating water and materials;
3. Find a suitable place for installation on the site;
4. Build a shower, taking into account all the rules listed above in the article.

Video

An example of creating a warm shower for a summer residence, see the video

Conclusion

Using this shower is easy and convenient. They can be used in the off-season, and with a strong desire - in the winter, just need to be insulated. All in your hands.

The summer shower is one of the significant buildings on suburban area. How to equip a shower in the country with your own hands, having built a reliable and durable structure with a minimum of financial investment? Guided by the advice of the master, you can easily cope with the task.

In the hot months, the presence of a summer shower is one of the conditions for a comfortable stay in a suburban area. The shower gives you the opportunity to freshen up after a hard day, removing the accumulated fatigue and energizing for new things.

Summer shower of a simple layout at their summer cottage

There is nothing complicated in building a shower in the country with your own hands. You just need to sketch a drawing and decide on the size of the future structure, prepare the necessary materials and allocate some free time.

Outdoor shower design

There are many options for arranging a summer shower. It might turn out simple design from wooden frame with a small tank on the roof and a curtain to keep out the wind and prying eyes. Or a full-fledged cabin with strong walls and a roof that can withstand a heavy barrel filled with water.

Summer shower design options

But in any case, an outdoor shower should be comfortable and spacious. Thinking over the dimensions of the future shower stall, keep in mind that it is necessary to provide a place protected from water splashes for storing bath accessories and hanging clothes. This will require from 40 to 60 cm of floor space.
According to the experience of the masters who have already built a shower in the country with their own hands, for a comfortable adoption of water procedures, there is a sufficient room with a size of 160x100 cm or 190x140 cm and a height of 2.5-5 meters.

Tip: A small drawing or a simple drawing will help you correctly calculate the required amount of building materials, preventing unnecessary costs.

Site selection

The design of the summer shower assumes that the water will be heated from solar heat. Therefore, it is better to allocate a well-lit area for the installation of a shower cabin, where the sun's rays will actively warm up the water tank throughout the daylight hours.

The best place to build a shower is a sunny place.

When choosing a place, it is worth considering the convenience of water supply, ensuring, if possible, automatic filling of the tank.
It would be wise to take care in advance about the flow of water by placing the structure on a natural elevation, or by making a small embankment for this so that after washing it enters the septic tank or sump.

Foundation preparation

When building a lightweight frame structure, laying the foundation is not at all necessary, but when building a stationary summer shower, this stage of work cannot be bypassed.
To carry out the work you will need:

• Roulette and level;
• Pegs and lace;
• Bayonet shovel;
• garden drill;
• Pieces of roofing material;
• Metal grid;
• Crushed stone and sand;
• cement mortar.

Preparing the base for the summer shower

The dimensions of the foundation depend on the building materials from which the building will be built. For the construction of a shower of cinder block or brick for the arrangement of a slab foundation, it will be necessary to dig a pit about 15 cm deep.
The work is carried out in several stages. Having decided on the place for arranging the summer shower, they prepare the site:

1. With the help of a tape measure, pegs and a cord, a site of the required size is marked out.
2. In the designated area, a layer of turf is removed with a depth of 15 cm.
3. Level the base of the pit.
4. The bottom of the pit is lined with a "cushion" of sand and poured with mortar, creating a flat surface.

Tip: If it is planned to use a wooden or metal frame as the floor of the shower room, before pouring the base, it is necessary to prepare a place for racks by installing sticks of the required diameter vertically wrapped with roofing felt.

Foundation laying

When performing a floor screed, it is better to use a level and guides, because only a horizontal surface can become a reliable basis for the entire structure. At this stage of construction, it is also worth taking care of arranging the drain, in parallel with the concrete tie, by completing a gutter reinforced with a metal mesh.

The foundation for the construction of a capital summer shower

Using a columnar or pile foundation for a frame summer shower, you do not have to dig a pit. It is enough to make holes about 1 meter deep using a garden drill at the place of installation of the support pillars.
It is necessary to insert metal racks into them, the height of which is 1.2 m, and D = 90 mm, so that the racks rise above the ground by 20 cm. cement mortar, diluted with crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1: 5: 3 and wait until it acquires the necessary strength.

Important: To extend the life of metal poles, the ends buried in the ground must be pre-treated with used engine oil.

Drain arrangement

A septic tank for a summer shower is best placed not under the shower cabin, but at a short distance from it. This will prevent it from flooding with large volumes of water, thereby preventing the destruction of the foundation and soil.

For its arrangement, they dig a hole about 2 meters deep, decorating the walls with brick or cinder block masonry. Some craftsmen use car tires for this purpose, laying them on top of each other in the form of a well. A chute is brought to the finished septic tank to drain the water and covered with a shield knocked down from wooden boards.

Option for arranging a drain for a summer shower

It is better to arrange the walls of the gutter for water drainage with a waterproof material: roofing material, hydrostekloizol or ordinary PVC film. It is placed under a slope so that the drain is directed towards the drainage tank.
In the shower stall itself, a metal or enameled tray is installed, which can be purchased at any specialized store without much hassle. From it, water will flow directly into the gutter.

Tip: You can partially solve the issue of soil drainage by planting moisture-loving perennials near the shower stall, such as a bathing suit, buzulnik, hazel grouse, iris, loosestrife.

Frame erection

A summer shower made of beams or boards is one of the most popular options for a building that is needed in the household. For the construction of the structure, it is better to use conifers, the main advantage of which is:

• high density;
• moisture resistance;
• High resin content;
• Ability to withstand heavy loads.

Beam shower frame

For the construction of the frame, bars of 100x100 mm are used. First, the lower frame is assembled, fixing it by means of a bolted connection to the support posts or screw piles. When mounting, it is better to use long bolts with full coincidence of the axes.

Having installed vertically wooden supports, perform the upper trim. To give the structure additional stability, the side frames are fixed with spacers.
Planed coniferous wood is excellent as a sheathing. She has a presentable appearance and harmoniously blends into the surrounding landscape.

Important: To extend the life of wood, it is desirable to treat it with an antiseptic and water-repellent composition, or simply coat it with 1-2 layers of varnish for outdoor use.

Building the walls of a wooden summer shower

Special seals will help to ensure a snug fit of the door. The door to the booth also needs to be painted or proliferated.
For interior decoration booths can be used plastic panels, oilcloth or linoleum. Photos with interesting design options can be peeped on the Internet.

Barrel installation

When choosing a barrel of the required volume, they are usually guided by the formula that up to 40 liters of water is enough for one person. To equip a summer shower for a family of three or four, it is enough to install a 200-liter barrel. If you choose between a plastic and metal container, then it is worth noting that plastic is lighter in weight, but metal (painted dark) heats up faster.

Different schemes for supplying water with natural heating

A little trick: To ensure faster heating of water, the outer surface of the roof under the barrel can be lined with reflective material such as galvanizing or foil.
The container is laid on the roof and fixed with straps. It remains only to choose the desired scheme for supplying water to the cabin:

• cut two holes for filling with water and connecting a faucet with a diffuser, fill the container and enjoy water procedures.
• the pedal scheme is similar to the first one, but water is supplied using a pedal and not a valve, as in the first case.

The second option is more complex, but at the same time very economical. water enters the shower dosed and at the right time, which is very convenient. Both options with natural water heating. It is also possible to connect electric water heating. The presence of an electric heater in a barrel entails the rejection of a barrel made of simple plastic (it is better to use metal) and the inclusion of another container for supplying cold water to the circuit.

Scheme for arranging a tank for a summer shower

Cold water will save a lot of electricity, because washing only with heated water is not very practical and convenient, because there is no way to adjust the temperature of the water supply. You will also need a mixer or some kind of circuit with two taps and the need for electricity supply. Although electricity is desirable anyway, it is necessary to light the shower.

Building a shower in the country: video

Naturally heated shower: video

Summer shower in the country: photo