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Gkl - partitions for different purposes. How to make a plasterboard partition for zoning space with your own hands How to mount a plasterboard partition

When planning repairs, people often decide to redevelop the premises by removing old and building new partitions, which allows for a more rational approach to planning the usable area.

And if there are usually no difficulties with regard to the destruction of old walls, then the issue of new ones should be approached more thoroughly so that time, effort and money are spent as little as possible, and the result is as good as possible.

From this article you will learn:

Previously, bricks were used to build partitions, but today the choice of building materials has become wider. Experts advise to focus on one of the latest developments - drywall. Lightweight, inexpensive, easy to install - this material is very popular when it comes to building new interior partitions.

Difficulties that you will face if you started a redevelopment one-room apartment into a two-room apartment, as well as ways to overcome them are discussed in this article.
What should be the design of Khrushchev in order to rationally use all the space, read here.

If you decide to make drywall partitions, then you must first choose suitable material, make markings for the construction of a frame from a profile, prepare everything necessary materials and equipment, and then proceed directly to the installation. The frame is the base to which the drywall sheets will be attached. They make it from a special metal profile, which is divided into several types depending on its purpose. The length of all profiles is 3-4 meters, according to an individual order, a product up to 7 meters long can be made.

Types of metal profile for drywall:

rack - used to create load-bearing structures, vertical racks. May have the following dimensions: 50x50, 65x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm;
guide - used to fasten the rack profile, create jumpers, necessary when installing door frames. Its size can be equal to: 50x40, 65x40, 75x40 and 100x40. Its second type has dimensions of 28x27 mm and is used when working with suspended ceilings;
corner - necessary to protect the edges of drywall sheets from mechanical damage. It is distinguished by the presence of a large number of holes, in the process of finishing work it is puttied;
ceiling. The name speaks for itself - this profile is used during installation false ceiling. Dimensions: 60x27 mm. It is not used in work with interior partitions.

The length and width of all drywall sheets are usually unchanged - 2.5 and 1.2 meters, respectively (it is rare to find sheets 600 mm wide and 2 to 4 meters long on sale), so you should not pay much attention to these parameters.

The thickness of the sheets is more important to you. It depends on the purpose for which this type will be used. building material.

You should pay attention to drywall with a thickness of 12.5 mm, since it is this that is used to create interior partitions. Other sheets (9.5 and 6.5 mm thick) are not suitable for you, as they are used for mounting false ceilings and arches, respectively. Before starting repair and construction work, make sure that you have everything you need prepared.

What you need to work with drywall:

drywall itself in the required quantity (depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe future wall);
metal profiles (rack-mount, guides and corner);
self-tapping screws ("metal-metal", "metal-gypsum") and dowels;
tape for sealing;
sandpaper;
insulation (mineral wool is a great option);
a set of tools (a construction knife, an annular type-setting saw, a knife-saw, a circular cutter, an end and edge planer, metal shears, a screwdriver and a puncher). The set can be both expanded and reduced.

The construction of interior partitions from drywall begins with the installation of the frame. Before you start this process, you need to make markup. First, using a tracing cord, mark the axis at the location of the future partition, immediately marking the location of the doorway. With the help of plumb lines and the same cord, the axis is transferred to the walls and ceiling. When the markup is done, you can proceed with the installation of the frame. The first step is the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. When attaching them to the wall, do not forget about sealing tape. Fasten it at the junction of the profile to the surface in order to increase the soundproofing characteristics. The profile is attached to the ceiling and floor with dowels, step - 1 meter, but for each profile - at least 3 dowels.

The second step is the installation of vertical (rack-mount) profiles. Pay attention to the grooves located on the "shelves" of these profiles: the middle one is the border of the joining of drywall sheets, the extreme ones are the centering point of the self-tapping screws.

The process of mounting rack profiles (SP):

insert the joint venture into the guide profile on the floor, and then on the ceiling, not less than 2 cm;
Install the joint venture strictly vertically, mounting them in increments of 600 mm. Open side - in the direction of installation of the partition;
fasten rack and guide profiles with metal-to-metal self-tapping screws. First you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the 1st groove from the “back” of the profile, and then into the one located at the open side (outer). So you do not risk deforming the structure.

A suitable timber can be inserted into the side profile - for more high level frame strength. In order to make a doorway in a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to leave a place for it in advance - at the stage of mounting the metal frame.

Install the rack profiles at the desired distance (these will be the side stops).

Between them, at a certain height, a guide profile should be installed, in the middle of which, parallel to the side joint ventures, an additional rack profile should be mounted, where the joint of drywall sheets will be located.

If you want to make window openings at the top, then the principle of mounting the frame under them remains the same as for doors, only the dimensions of these openings will be smaller. When the frame is ready, you can proceed to the last stage of the construction of interior partitions - sheathing with sheets of drywall.

First you need to install whole sheets that do not require gouges and fittings. Next, you need to cut the sheets right size and install them in the appropriate places, attaching to the frame.

Cutting drywall sheets is easy - sharp knife draw along the marking line applied to the sheet after careful measurements, cutting the cardboard shell and capturing the gypsum core. After that, you need to put the sheet on flat surface and break it off along the notch line, and process the edge with a planer.

Click this link for photos of the design options. stretch ceilings, as well as tips on how to choose the right ceiling design style.
And from here you can learn how to independently install the drywall arch.

Plasterboard sheets are pressed tightly against the frame and screwed with self-tapping screws. You should start from the corner in two directions perpendicular to each other. It is necessary to fasten in increments of 250 mm (from one self-tapping screw to another), retreating from the edge by about 10-15 mm. Tighten the self-tapping screws strictly perpendicular to the sheet, driving them so that the heads “sink” into the drywall (by 1-2 mm, no more).

Sew the frame first on one side only, leaving the other open. If you plan to use any communication networks, then you should start and lay them inside the frame cavity in advance. Do not forget about sound and heat insulation. To do this, you need to lay mineral wool in the cavity of the frame (necessarily of the NG type - non-combustible).

Make sure that it lies tightly, does not slip. Lay it up and down. Wear gloves to avoid skin irritation.

After that, sew up the second side of the frame with drywall sheets and proceed to finishing work:

first putty the joints between the sheets and the holes left by the heads of the self-tapping screws with a starting putty;
clean the dried putty with fine-grained sandpaper;
reinforce the outer corners with an angular profile, putty, clean;
apply finishing putty if you are going to paint a plasterboard wall, and after drying, clean it thoroughly so that there are no bumps.

Installation is over, if you did everything correctly, then you will get a perfectly flat and smooth surface, completely ready for finishing work.

diskmag.ru

Plasterboard interior partitions - an easy way to redevelop

Today it is difficult to imagine the repair of an apartment in an old house without redevelopment. They change the configuration or number of rooms with their own hands with the help of interior walls. They are created from a suitable building material - brick, foam block or GVL. But the simplest and most practical solution for dividing space is drywall interior partitions.

Why drywall? It is easy to install with your own hands, durable, and the weight of the GKL is small. The sheet is small in thickness, so the design of it does not take up extra space. In addition, GKL is a good soundproof plus fire-resistant material. The main thing is that they build such a wall of drywall with their own hands. GKL forgives mistakes, and even inexperienced builders get a smooth wall from it.

Dividing a room with plasterboard sheets

DIY device: general rules

For work, you will need a plasterboard, a rack and guide profile, soundproofing material, self-tapping screws, dowels and tools. After filling the surface new wall will have to paint, glue wallpaper on it or ceramic tiles. Finishing material is also needed.

Venerable builders recommend Knauf materials. For do-it-yourself work, it is better to choose them. It doesn’t matter if it is a slab, profile, putty or primer - Knauf quality is always on top. Knauf mineral wool is used as sound insulation in residential premises and industrial facilities.

Before the purchase Supplies calculate the amount required. For this purpose, it is determined whether the partition will be multilayered. As a rule, it is made single-layer, but sometimes it is necessary to strengthen it with a second layer of plasterboard, for example, if it is planned to attach heavy structures to it - a boiler or a hanger.

The strength of the structure depends on the thickness of the profile - bearing (CW) and guide (UW). It must be at least 0.55 mm.

The connection of profiles is carried out by the so-called "fleas" - self-tapping screws 11 mm long. They have a sharp tip or in the form of a gimlet and drill through metal up to 2 mm. It is difficult to use them - they always strive to slip out and get lost. Therefore, if you are going to do repairs with your own hands, they buy them with a margin, and use the PH-2 nozzle when working. Self-tapping screws with a tip without a gimlet are preferable.

Mounting materials

To attach the guides to the main walls and ceiling, dowels and self-tapping screws are required, which are hammered. A suitable dowel is with a diameter of 6 mm. If the wall is with a loose surface, take dummies and self-tapping screws with a smaller diameter of 1-2 mm. For a metal frame, you need self-tapping screws for metal 2.5 cm long, and for wood - the same length, but for wood.

Frame: do-it-yourself assembly

Assembly begins with marking. You will need a level and a plumb line. The order is as follows:

The place where the wall will stand is determined. On opposite walls from floor to ceiling, two control lines are applied with a thread or a masking cord.
Measure the height of each and cut the guides 5 mm shorter and fasten them to the wall along the intended markup so that there is a gap with the ceiling. Do the same on the opposite wall. Dowels are fastened in steps of up to 40 cm.
A horizontal profile is inserted and attached to the left gap near the ceiling. When the width of the partition exceeds 4 m, the profiles are overlapped with level control.
After that, the lower profile is attached. If an opening, arch or something similar is planned, a gap is left in the lower horizontal profile. In this case, the length of the profiles is calculated taking into account the height and width of the door frame, arches, etc., plus the dimensions of the gaps of 2.5 mm for the edges on each side and 5 mm for the frame allowance.

Frame for a wall made of plasterboard

The profile is cut with a grinder. When the floor is wooden, then a strip of adhesive tape is glued to the bottom surface of the profile. Then the partition will not rattle.

The door lintel is made from a guide profile, which is fixed with “fleas”. To prevent the partition from ringing when opening and closing the door, wooden bars are inserted into the opening along the perimeter and fastened to the profile with self-tapping screws. For greater rigidity, the carrier profile is fixed in increments of 30 cm, so that there are four strips per gypsum board.

In the process of sewing, the structure is prepared for the installation of electrical wiring and other communications. To do this, cuts in the plaster should be provided. Draw an approximate wiring diagram and follow it to avoid difficult-to-correct errors. The wires are distributed in free places and attached to the profile.

Soundproofing is performed after sheathing one side of the partition. To do this, a heater is laid between the profiles - mineral wool. It is cut a little wider and thicker than the opening so that it fits snugly between the carrier profile. Its thickness is not less than the width of the partition. It is better to use large or whole pieces to get rid of cracks immediately.

sheathing

Do not forget about gloves, otherwise you can hurt your hands. Those suffering from respiratory diseases should work in a respirator. Cotton wool is installed in one "window" and the place is immediately closed with plaster. This will reduce the amount of dust in the air.

If on one side the cladding device goes in one direction, then on the other side the drywall is fixed in the reverse order. This will eliminate the risk of overlapping seams on the uprights.

You can immediately close the opening with a sheet, and then make a cutout on the spot with a knife (for example, a paint knife) or a hacksaw. About 60 pieces of self-tapping screws are required per sheet of drywall. Make sure that their hats are sunken when screwing in. This will facilitate subsequent puttying.

What why

The work is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

GKL is screwed to the profile in increments of 25 cm. The second layer is fastened with self-tapping screws after 60 cm.
The edges of the scraps are processed with a rasp. Screws must not be driven into the corners and edges of the sheets. 5 cm and 1.5 cm recede from them, respectively.
When one side is ready, the device is opposite.
For greater confidence, the back side of the profile is glued with soundproof tape.
The plates of the second layer are fixed in a checkerboard pattern so that the seams do not coincide with the seams of the first. The spacing is at least 40 cm.

Putty works

Preparing for finishing

When the wall is almost ready, start puttying. But first, the seams are embroidered. The chamfer is made 45 degrees with a knife. The next stage is priming, sealing the seams with a sickle and puttying. The seams are coated with a gypsum mixture using a spatula. The outer corners of the doorway are reinforced with a corner perforated profile.

When the seams dry, treat the surface with an acrylic primer (preferably from Knauf) and proceed to puttying. One layer of putty is enough if the surface will be pasted over with wallpaper. If it is prepared for painting, then one more layer is needed - the finishing one.

After complete drying, grouting and grinding is required. This operation is carried out with the help of graters and trowels with numbers from 100 to 150. Dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Knauf system

The Knauf company enjoys a well-deserved trust among builders. Recently, the so-called partitions according to the Knauf system have gained popularity. The difference from the usual ones is that their installation is carried out exclusively using the materials of this manufacturer.

The Knauf profile is known for the fact that after connecting the parts on the resulting wall, there are no bumps and extra protrusions. This helps to save on subsequent finishing.

The video shows the process of installing an interior partition from GKL:

Knauf technology involves the use of moisture resistant sheets own production. Knauf also offers complete kits for assembling frames of varying complexity. They include profiles, corners and other elements of various shapes - this is practically a designer. The material is highly resistant to mechanical stress and water. The company offers five standard sizes of plasterboard, which helps to speed up the assembly. As a heater and sound insulator, Knauf mineral wool is recommended, which has the best performance in your class.

It may seem a little expensive, but you should not think about whether to take it or not, to do it or not. After redevelopment, you will not recognize the apartment. It will become more functional, modern and beautiful. BUT good materials Knauf will ensure the durability of the plasterboard interior partition.

They will also help you create strong do-it-yourself drywall walls that will serve you faithfully for a long time. And if you want to make the interior more interesting, you can always install interior arches from drywall. See for yourself that quality repair Do-it-yourself drywall - it's not at all difficult!

gipsohouse.ru

How to make an interior partition from drywall with your own hands

Having decided to build an additional wall in an apartment or house that acts as a separating partition, many people decide to use drywall as the main material, since it has many advantages:

allows for quick installation.
even with minimal effort, it results in absolutely smooth surfaces;
has a low weight;
has high rates sound insulation and fire resistance;
having a small thickness, it makes it possible to hide communications.

The construction of an additional wall is a fairly simple process that can be entrusted to professionals or done independently, having previously familiarized yourself with all the nuances of building such a plasterboard partition. How to make interior walls? Video or photo instructions are the best helpers in solving this issue, thanks to which you can not only familiarize yourself with the installation rules, but also see exactly how to perform it.

A do-it-yourself drywall partition is built directly from drywall, CW rack profiles and UW guide profiles, which are attached to the floor and ceiling. For reliability, the thickness of the profile must be at least 0.55 mm, otherwise the partition may be deformed during operation. Before buying the required material, you first need to calculate how much is needed to build drywall interior partitions. The dimensions of the room in these calculations play leading role, since it depends on their values how much it will take to purchase drywall sheets and metal profiles. Also, the amount of purchased material is affected by whether the wall will be two-layer or single-layer. If you are interested in a more powerful version of a foam block partition, then we have a detailed article. Also, do not forget to read this article, which describes another option for building a partition.

Do-it-yourself device and installation of an interior partition made of plasterboard

1. Before you make a drywall partition, you need to finish all wet work in the room.

2. We begin the installation of the partition by marking the walls, ceiling and floor using a laser level or a plumb line and a level.

3. On the back of the UW profile, we glue a soundproof tape that will dampen vibration during operation.

4. The UW profile is cut to the required size, drilled and stuck to the floor with screws and dowels 6x60, installed at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

5. Attach the UW profile to the ceiling in the same way.

Since the most popular drywall partitioning device in an apartment implies vertical mounting solid sheets, so we also make the frame vertical from CW profiles, which are fixed to the UW guide profiles passing along the floor and ceiling.

6. We shorten the CW profiles by 10-15 mm relative to the height of the room.

7. Be sure to glue the extreme adjoining CW profiles on the reverse side with tape and fix them on the walls.

8. We install the rest of the CW profiles in increments of 60 cm and fix them with a notcher.

9. We carry out the sewing of one side of the partition using a drywall screwdriver, which does not allow self-tapping screws in drywall to be heated.

10. We carry out the distribution of wires in the free niches of the structural spaces of the partition.

11. We fill the niches of the plasterboard room partition with an insulator. Mineral wool boards or rolled insulation are recommended as insulating material. The thickness of the insulator must be no less than the thickness of the niche, otherwise it will slip and will not perform its functions. The insulation layer is laid so that there are no gaps between the plates. It is better to use whole pieces, since cuttings of insulating material reduce the sound transmission of the partition.

12. We install drywall sheets for sewing the second side of the partition onto the drywall lining.

13. We sew the second side of the partition with gypsum boards, fixing them with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-25 cm with a single-layer lining or in increments of 50-60 cm with a two-layer lining.

14. We measure all the missing parts from drywall with a tape measure and cut it with a drywall knife. We process the cut edges with a drywall rasp.

15. For increased strength of horizontal seams, we install pieces of the profile as jumpers. We screw the self-tapping screws not into the corner of the sheets, but retreating from the corner 3-5 cm, but from the edge 1-1.5 cm, so that the core does not crumble.

You can sew up the partition in two layers, then it will have an increased quality:

better absorb sound;
have better bearing capacity, stiffness, and in some cases fire resistance.

16. When performing the second layer of sewing, we measure all the wires and transfer their dimensions to the drywall blank, due to which we determine the exact location for making a hole for the wires. Such a hole is made with a special hacksaw.

17. We stretch all the wires through the slots and carry out the installation of the plate. We sew the second layer with self-tapping screws with a step of 20-25 cm so that the vertical and horizontal seams of the second layer do not coincide with the seams of the first layer. We install the plates in a checkerboard pattern relative to each other or with a horizontal seam separation of at least 40 cm.

18. At the final stage, we perform stitching. To do this, first, with a knife on drywall at an angle of 45º, we remove the chamfers for subsequent sealing of the seams with a special putty.

19. We check the quality of work with a level in three planes - horizontally, diagonally and vertically. Deviations of no more than 5 mm for every 3 m of vertical height and 1-2 mm for every 2 m along the plane of the structure are allowed.

The price of an interior partition

The costs incurred by the construction of a plasterboard partition are calculated on an individual basis, since this value is influenced by many factors:

quality and, accordingly, the price of the selected material;
design features and the size of the partition;
the cost of erecting a partition, etc.

So, if among all the proposed materials you choose more expensive drywall and a profile, and the cost for the partition will then increase. On average, for 3 meters of the UW profile, you will have to pay 20 UAH ($ 2), and for 3 meters of the CW profile - 25 UAH ($ 3) . The average cost of a two-meter-long drywall sheet is about 40 UAH ($ 4).

Self-construction of a partition is very justified from the point of view of economy, since the craftsmen ask for considerable sums for the installation of partitions in a drywall room. The price for such services will cost approximately 80 UAH / sq.m ($ 8). And installing a partition with your own hands will reduce overall costs by almost half.

Do-it-yourself drywall interior partition video

o-builder.com

Plasterboard interior partition with a door installation do-it-yourself partition installation video

When choosing a material for installing interior partitions, gypsum boards rightly lead. They are practically devoid of competition not only in the price range and quality, but also in the possibility of their installation without the help of specialists.

Photo 1 - Plasterboard partitions photo

Features of plasterboard partitions

This is a universal material for independent redevelopment, however, its use is impossible without first installing a wooden or metal profile. Plasterboard boards can be combined with any soundproof filler.

Advantages

Almost flat surface suitable for any coating or finish - from painting to wallpaper.
Minor weight. This is an important factor, especially in older buildings with wooden floors where additional load on the beams is undesirable.
Noise isolation. With a width of double-sided drywall of 9.5 cm, sound absorption will be about 37 dB.
Fire resistance. Two-layer sheathing will increase this figure three times.

Disadvantages of drywall partitions

Fragility. On one meter of material it is impossible to produce a load of more than 15 kg. This eliminates the installation of built-in attachments, bookshelves or plasma panels.
Subject to deformation in case of flooding. It is unstable to moisture (installation of a plasterboard wall is carried out only after all work on the installation of plumbing equipment, before working with floors).

Do-it-yourself installation of an interior partition. Instruction

Installation of an interior partition - Video tutorial:

The end side of the drywall adjacent to the ceiling must be at least 15 mm behind, for this it must be processed with a special planer. The removal of screws vertically on two adjacent sheets is at least 10mm. The screws themselves must clearly enter at a right angle, and with a 1mm submerged head, in order to further putty them.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, study and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - you can divide any living space into functional zones with your own hands, dividing it with frame partitions sheathed with drywall and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall construction

Despite the features of the interior, your design intent, as well as the location and size of the drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is hard metal carcass made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with wooden beams at the installation point doorway. To improve the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the design. Mounted and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum boards, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are mounted in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with drywall sheets have long and with great success replaced brick or wood partitions due to a number of characteristic advantages:

Material properties. A durable metal profile allows you to mount light partition frames of any shape and size, which do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is environmentally friendly pure material, specially treated to improve fire retardant and moisture resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR has a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishes.
fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - their creation is within the power of even a beginner, "inexperienced" in construction works Oh home master. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product is easily disassembled and reassembled.
Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
Minimum cost. All the elements that make up the partition sheathed with plasterboard are of low cost. During installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

disadvantages

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
Low resistance of GKL to abundant exposure to moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak "organized" by neighbors living above.
The impossibility of fastening massive shelves or wall cabinets on the surface of the partition. The design is able to hold weight up to 70 kg per running meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of the gypsum board, we note that the competent creation and proper operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this short "course of theory" is over, let's move on to solving practical issues. First, consider the list of necessary tools, list the materials that we need to build the structure, and also perform approximate calculation their quantity.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
Angle grinder ("Bulgarian") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the desired length.
Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing floors under expansion bolt shields for installation of the PN profile.
Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For mounting the structure at the upper levels, you will need a solid ladder-ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of tools personal protection- goggles or mask, thick gloves, respirator.

materials

For self-assembly of the partition, the following materials will be used:

Two types of metal profile for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mount" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is the bearing element of the crate.
Plasterboard for sheathing - closes the frame on both sides.
Insulation - fills the inner part of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, it is necessary to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:

Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the partition itself should be thicker.
Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use GKLV - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and figured structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (corkboard or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.

In addition to the main structural elements, to create it you will need:

Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening frame elements.
Self-tapping drywall piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) – cladding installation.
Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The whole structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Master's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas for screwing in self-tapping screws on the surface of the skin - a reinforcing sickle tape, a primer for gypsum boards, and finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of skin layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a profile frame 75 mm wide and single-layer sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix entirely, vertically to the bearing walls. The rest of the length of 9.2 m will be covered with three four-meter strips of the profile (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for reinforcing the frame at the door installation site and mounting jumpers between the posts.
The black color indicates the UW profile, which forms the outline of the structure
Rack profile (CW). Given the standard width of the GKL sheet (1.2 m), vertical racks the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and one more element is in the middle of the sheet.
Frame racks should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and as a result we get 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The gray color marks the vertical posts of the partition frame from the CW profile
Profile for a doorway. At the door installation site, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a guide profile strip, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a segment of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Green color highlights two load-bearing reinforced racks, blue - lintel (upper beam) of the doorway
Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from the guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
Jumpers from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure
Drywall. As a material for sheathing, we use sheets (plates) of GKL 3000 long, 1200 wide and 12.5 mm thick. To close one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half the sheet. Five slabs are also needed here - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one post or 600 mm

Master's advice: Double-sided installation of GKL sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition - use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 lanes;
rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fasten the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are mounted every 250–300 mm.

The engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction - have prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PCS.	29
5	Putty Knauf-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PCS.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer Knauf-Tifengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool insulation Knauf	sq. m	1,0
11	Knauf profile PU	PCS.	*

*Note that the number corner profile(PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations during the construction of a drywall partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the base material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let's be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of the neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.

Master's advice: Any construction work using drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room of at least +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting. Before measures to create a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and layout

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the markup will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have applied is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finish.

Lathing installation

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

An angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors will cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the desired length. On the back side of the blanks, we will stick a sealing damper tape that softens sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line by drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise starting with the top rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot through” with a plumb line the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer
Let's install vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using the building level. Note that fasteners of a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level
Let's form doorway by installing racks made of reinforced profile in the marked place. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper part of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for reinforcing parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal (every 150–200 mm) or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, picking it up in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
We install a reinforced rack in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (this is where a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with metal screws. We mount the second rack in the same way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully insert it into the upper
Let's set the racks from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, we perform fasteners with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should fall in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the rails with metal screws
We will mount the horizontal jumper (upper beam) of the doorway. We cut off a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts from the guide profile strip. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the desired size with blind ends.
Inside the upper beam of the opening can be inserted wooden beam, further reinforcing the design
We will install a jumper between the opening posts in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be strengthened in any of the ways mentioned.
If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, it will be necessary to manufacture and install additional stiffeners - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal self-tapping screws.
Option for the location of transverse jumpers in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will mount the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
The wooden beam must be fixed at the installation sites of heavy hanging cabinets and other massive interior elements.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important step in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Plates from mineral wool Reliably retain heat, as well as isolate the room from extraneous noise

Master's advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

We will sheathe one side of the frame with drywall, starting from the whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step counting began for racks from the CW profile. Remember that when installing the GKL, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and a “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and cracking.
The cladding is mounted from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
We fasten the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting self-tapping screws for gypsum boards around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall surface.
With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join drywall sheets exactly in the middle of the profile
Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks by surprise.
Mineral wool cut to size slabs are laid between the racks of the crate
We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fixing the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the cladding from the gypsum board, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach the extension or parts of a non-standard size, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, we insert into it door block and solve the issue with finishing the surface of drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the skin is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be pasted over with wallpaper, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with drywall, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a GKL partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to handle and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you will be able to do this work yourself without any problems.

A couple of decades ago, all partitions and piers were built with their own hands from blocks or bricks. These materials were subsequently successfully replaced by drywall, which retains its popularity to this day. There are many reasons for this. The ability of drywall to acquire any shape and the variety of profiles of its frame make it possible to translate into reality the most daring ideas of designers. A simple installation of a plasterboard partition with your own hands is available even to a beginner in the construction business.

Due to its porous structure, the material easily passes steam, regulating the level of humidity in the room. GKL impregnation with a special compound makes it possible to use drywall in a humid environment such as a bathroom or kitchen. Drywall, which includes natural ingredients, is completely harmless to health.

The light weight of GKL partitions has little effect on the bearing capacity of the main elements of the building, which is very important when repairing old wooden buildings. And during the construction modern buildings the use of GKL structures reduces the cost of concrete and reinforcement by up to 30%.

The thickness of the partitions during their installation and a reliable opening is determined by the profile width of 100.75 or 50 mm. Its choice depends on the purpose of the partition. A narrow profile can save usable space, while a wide profile can withstand a significant load.

Material calculation

The design of the future partition is a metal frame sheathed with plasterboard, in which there is a doorway. The framework consists of guides and rack profiles. Guide profiles PN 50/40 are mounted along the perimeter of the vertical contour of the room, and rack profiles PS - inside the contour with a step of 600 mm, they also form a doorway. Used for sheathing wall drywall t.12.5mm with sheet dimensions 2500x1200mm.

In order to correctly calculate the amount of these materials, it is necessary to draw on paper a diagram of the future partition indicating the height, length or width of the room, the location and dimensions of the doorway, as well as the placement of rack profiles. In addition, cutting sheets of drywall should be applied to the frame drawing, which should be staggered with fastening joints on the horizontal lintels of the frame.

When calculating, it is important to determine the future load on the partition from the weight of furniture or decor items. It determines the location and number of rack profiles, as well as additional jumpers required at the attachment points of accessories or forming a doorway.

Before you make a drywall partition, an approximate calculation of the amount of materials can be performed using any of the numerous calculators posted on the websites of specialized construction companies. The doorway is not taken into account.

Frame installation

In order to build a metal frame of a partition with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a plumb line, a screwdriver, a tape measure, metal scissors, a puncher, a drill, a hammer, a paint cord, a building level and a marker. The plasterboard interior partition with a door is made in stages in the following order:

Sheathing the partition frame with drywall

After mounting the frame, it needs to be sheathed with plasterboard sheets. Do-it-yourself work should start from the wall by attaching solid sheets, observing the following rules:

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the sheet at a distance of 10-15mm from its edge with a fastening step of 100-150mm.
Adjacent sheets must have a joint on a common profile.
Fastener caps should be recessed into the GKL by 0.5 mm.
With a single-layer sheathing of the frame, the length of the self-tapping screws is taken at least 25 mm, and with a two-layer sheathing - 40 mm. An important indicator in this case is the penetration of fasteners into the profile to a depth of at least 10 mm.

After sheathing the frame on one side, it is recommended to lay soundproofing material in it, which can be used as mineral wool in the form of slabs or rolled canvas. The insulator must be laid between the rack profiles, avoiding gaps.

After laying the insulation, you can sheathe the frame on the other side according to the rules described above. Sheets are recommended to be fastened to the frame profiles with a vertical offset for the correct distribution of loads arising during the operation of the partition.

Partition finish

Finishing the finished plasterboard partition is performed in this order:

Instead of a traditional door in the partition can be installed sliding door. In this case, the size of the opening will be smaller door leaf. Such an opening is equipped with a floor controller, a hanging rail and has an additional metal frame necessary to mask the movement mechanism.

If necessary, engineering communications can be placed in a plasterboard partition: electrical wiring, pipes, and others. Such work is planned in advance and carried out at the stage of creating the frame.

That's all science. We hope that now you know how to make a drywall partition and a doorway with your own hands. A little patience and accuracy in work - and you will succeed. Good luck to all!

Plasterboards are a simple and economical way to zone a room and change ordinary interior. In addition, the quality characteristics of this material are not inferior to the main walls. It is very difficult to divide a large space into functional areas without the help of specialists. But you can make beautiful drywall partitions with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions will become your real assistant and guide in this. So let's start learning useful properties material and to gain new skills in the installation of ergonomic partitions.

Read in the article

Scope of plasterboard partitions

Most likely, you have heard of such material as or drywall sheets. Now let's find out why you should choose drywall interior partitions for decoration.

GCR is a finishing material consisting of three composite layers. In this "sandwich", the middle layer is made of modified building gypsum with additional reinforcement. The outer layers are made of cardboard. For strength, special components are added to gypsum. Facing cardboard is the basis for finishing coatings.

The popularity of the design is due to its simplicity. Drywall sheets are fixed to the steel frame, and the internal cavities are filled with soundproof materials. The frame is made of horizontal, which are attached to the ceiling and floor surfaces.

Drywall is used in many areas. After all, from this material you can realize any configuration and size. For example, it will not be difficult to build a drywall partition with.

Related article:

From the publication you will learn the functions, types, materials of manufacture and varieties of partition structures, as well as find photo examples of glass, plasterboard, wood and other products.

There are the following partition options:

arched, standard, on a double or single profile. This takes into account the features of the profile;
decorative plasterboard partitions or functional walls;
with openings or blind surfaces;
sliding or fixed. It depends on the installation technique.

Decorative options are used to decorate the room, as well as masking interior flaws.

In addition to partitions, drywall is used. This allows you to make the surface perfectly smooth. You can also bring to life design ideas in the form. Niches from this material are also relevant. They can be installed or various souvenirs.

With the help of arched structures, you can create an original decor in the room. A plasterboard finish allows you to hide any wall defects from your eyes.

How an interior with plasterboard partitions can look like can be seen in this video:

For your information! Drywall is a versatile material. Light sources or insulation can be mounted on the surface from it.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall partitions

More recently, partitions in residential premises were made of heavy material, which also involved complex installation work. But modern ones have become more sophisticated and attractive, thanks to the appearance of drywall on the construction market. We note its positive properties:

GKL partitions have excellent sound insulation and go well with different types thermal insulation material;
the sheets are very light, which reduces the load on the floors;
the material has a flat surface, which allows it to be used as a basis for gluing, or;
does not apply to combustible materials;
GKL has hygroscopicity. The material perfectly absorbs moisture and lets air through;
an important parameter is ease of installation, which will allow you to change the interior in the shortest possible time;
The sheets contain natural ingredients that are safe for health.

The disadvantages include low strength compared to concrete, stone or brick structures. In addition, GKL is not very resistant to moisture.

Materials for the manufacture of interior plasterboard partitions

The main types of materials used in the installation of drywall partitions are the profiles and the GKL sheets themselves.

You can choose drywall of different types:

standard GKL is distinguished by blue markings and in gray. It is wall and ceiling;
moisture resistant GKL is suitable for rooms with a high level. It is green;
fire-resistant GKL is used to isolate electrical panels and. He has pink color and red label.

Here is how the doorway is formed:

a wooden beam is inserted inside the rack-mount galvanized profile;
then racks with bars are installed inside the guide profiles; using a level, it is necessary to control the verticality;
the cross beam is made from a piece of rack profile. You also need to insert a timber beam into it;
on the reverse sides of the crossbar and racks, you need to make holes for nails;
with the help of nails, wooden elements inside the racks are fastened;
the installation of the cross member is completed by twisting on the sides.

To understand the technology well, how to make a drywall partition in a room, do not forget about using a level. This device allows you to maintain the verticality of the elements during installation work.

Installation of vertical racks

An important step is the installation of vertical profiles. It is carried out as follows:

marking is performed for the rack profile, it is marked along the width of the sheet. At the same time, there are 3 vertically mounted racks per plate;
racks should be installed from the opening to the walls;
the vertical profile should be checked with a level and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Installation of horizontal bars

Step-by-step installation with instructions: how to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands includes mounting the crossbars in a horizontal direction. To ensure structural rigidity, all vertical type guides must be fastened with horizontal jumpers. In this case, a step of 70 ÷ 80 cm is observed. The elements of the rack profile are attached to vertical posts. After the frame is assembled, wires are laid inside. They have separate holes. The wiring is laid inside the profiles in a special non-combustible insulation.

wiring device

The advantage of the GKL is that you can mount any. You need to worry about wiring in advance when the sheathing is done on one side. Cables lead inside in special ones, which contribute to better insulation. They pass through holes in the supporting profiles. After wiring, you can lay.

Cutting and bending drywall to the desired dimensions

Knowledge of how to cut the material so as not to damage it will also come in handy. Markings on the surface of drywall are best done with a simple pencil. Instead of a construction knife, you can use the usual stationery. First, cuts are made along the drawn lines, and then the material is cut. You can go around the edges with sandpaper.

Sheets can also be cut with a hacksaw. If the blade is thin, then it can be used to gently cut the sheet. has small chisels. With it, you can cut curly parts.

Laying plasterboard sheets on the resulting frame, fastening rules

Before you make a drywall partition, carefully study the technology for attaching drywall sheets:

to cut the material, you can use a special knife. It is important to cut the gypsum layer as deep as possible, and then break the plate along the notch;
cut edges must be processed with a knife or planer;
sheets are fixed to the guides with self-tapping screws;
when mounting the sheet, it is important to leave a gap at the bottom. It is necessary so that the sheets do not deform;
soundproofing is carried out using isover or mineral wool. The layer is placed between the plates.

For your information! Do not forget to install bars in those places where you plan to mount shelves or niches.

Puttying and finishing

A starting layer is also applied to the stitched sheets. You can then reinforce the outer corners with perforated corners. Then putty is used. It is applied in a thin layer with two spatulas and polished. It is better to choose putty from one manufacturer.

After the coating has dried, you can perform and finishing. You can use , or .

Summing up, we invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions do-it-yourself installation of a plasterboard wall in the table below:

Illustration	Description of works
	The marking of the place where the partition will be mounted is carried out. The tape measure is pulled from the sewn surface to the area that has been selected. This marking is done on both sides.
	A laser level is used for accurate marking. The vertical function allows you to accurately beat off the markings under the side walls. The laser line must be moved to the mark that was made using a tape measure. Marking along the red line should be marked with a pencil.
	The guide profile is fixed with a puncher and dowel-nails.
	The profile is fixed on the other side.
	If the walls are old, then you can additionally strengthen the structure with the help of self-tapping screws, which are screwed in like a wedge between the metal and the dowel.
	On the floor, you also need to draw a line between the guides. If installation is supposed, then markup is also made under it. To do this, you need to measure the size of the box assembly and add 2 cm for the technical clearance.
	Then markings are made on the ceiling using the laser plumb function. One point of the laser should follow the drawn line on the floor. In this case, the second one will appear on the ceiling in the right place.
	The mark from the laser must be marked with a pencil. Using a laser level, marks are made on the ceiling every 50 cm.
	According to the markup, you need to fix the guide profile on the ceiling. In this case, you need to bypass communications.
	On the floor, the profile is fixed taking into account the place under the doorway.
	Rack profiles are installed at intervals of 40 cm and vertically.
	On the one hand, the profile is installed with a gap of 40 cm from the wall, and on the other, taking into account the space for the passage of communications. Also, two profiles are placed on both sides of the opening. The profiles near the doorway are placed with the back side out. All profiles must stand vertically. This needs to be checked again with a laser fixture.
	Then you need to fix the vertical racks, for this a profile cutter is used. The profile must be fixed on both sides.

In the process of arranging your own home, quite often there is a need to make a partition. This may be required during a large-scale redevelopment or if you want to divide the room into several parts. It is easiest to build an internal partition from drywall and metal profiles. Working with this material is quite simple, because many people want to learn how to make a drywall partition. You should be aware that in the process of forming walls from drywall sheets, there are a large number of nuances that must be taken into account.

To make a partition yourself, you will need to purchase the following profiles: CD profile, UD profile, CW, UW.

Materials that will be needed for the construction of the partition

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, you will first need to make a frame. It consists of metal profiles that are designed for drywall. You will also need some other equipment.

In most cases, the following profiles are used:

D - to form a plane on which drywall will be fixed in the future.
W - for the construction of the partition frame.

Profiles can be supporting and guides.

To make a partition yourself, you will need to purchase the following profiles:

CD profile. Will be used as the main structural element.
UD profile. It is used as a guide element for fixing the CD profile.
c.w. It is used as a stand for shaping the wall frame.
UW will be used as a guide element for CW.

If you plan to build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75 or 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles will be needed. For the construction of walls of large width, additionally, CD and UD profiles should be purchased.

To fix the profile in the frame, you will need a suspension and a connector. All elements will be connected with self-tapping screws. You will need self-tapping screws such as “fleas” and fixtures with countersunk heads for drywall. To fix the entire frame to the main walls, you will need to purchase plastic dowels with impact screws.

Plasterboard sheets should be 12.5 mm thick, with a wide chamfer on the sides. If drywall partition planned to be done in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then moisture-proof sheets should be prepared.

As a result, for the construction of a thin wall or partition, the following elements will be needed:

drywall sheets;
metal profiles;
wooden bars;
self-tapping screws;
dowels;
tape for sealing;
mineral wool;
metal corner.

In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:

roulette;
building level;
plumb;
screwdriver;
grater;
knife;
scissors;
electric drill.

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Nuances to know

When all necessary tools and the materials will be prepared, you can proceed to the construction of the frame.

The floor and adjacent walls, on which the partition will be attached, must be at the stage of fine finishing.

On the floor, you need to mark the location of the manufactured structure. You will need to take into account the following nuances:

Ideal angles between the walls in rooms are quite rare, and therefore the distance between them in most cases differs by several cm. In the process of marking a plasterboard partition, this must be taken into account. It is recommended to snap to two walls that run parallel. Distances will need to be averaged. Thus, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the resulting structure.
If, in addition to the construction of the partition, it is planned to cover all the walls with plasterboard sheets, then first of all the frame is displayed so that right angles can be created. After that, it will be possible to proceed with the construction of the structure.
When marking the first wall placement line, one should take into account the fact that it will be necessary to align the guide profile along it. To this mark, you must add the thickness of the drywall sheet, a layer of putty and finishing material.

When the starting line on the floor is determined, it can be transferred to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you need a plumb line or a laser level.

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How to form a plasterboard partition frame?

All profiles that are attached to the floor, ceiling or walls are installed using sealing tape. This tape must be installed between the profile and the supporting base. First of all, you need to fix the UW profile to the floor and ceiling. It can be fixed with dowels and screws. The installation step of fasteners is 0.5 m.

Along the edges of the guide elements, you need to fix the racks from the CW profile. These devices must also be installed in places where it is planned to build a door or window opening. The profiles are first attached to the lower guide element. After that, they need to be threaded into the upper guide element and installed vertically. To determine the correct location, you need to use the building level. In the process of placing these profiles, the margin for sheathing with drywall strips over the profile should be taken into account. Products are mounted with the front side inside the opening. Racks are attached to the rails with self-tapping screws.

Along the perimeter of door and window openings, the supporting profiles will need to be reinforced with wooden bars, which are installed inside the profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. The beam should be selected based on the width of the profile.

Next, along the entire length of the frame, you need to install CW support profiles. The first element from the adjacent wall is mounted at a distance of 55 cm, all subsequent ones are installed in increments of 60 cm. The distance is measured from the middle of each element. In the process, you need to check the vertical installation of the profiles.

Use the UW profile to define the top of the door opening and the horizontal edges of the window openings. On the front side of the profile, marks should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the extreme part of the structure. The sidewalls of the profile must be cut at an angle of 45°. You need to start from the extreme side. Further, the extreme parts of the product must be bent in order to obtain a U-shaped structure.

The resulting workpiece will need to be put on the racks with bent edges, and then raised to the desired height. The structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, you need to screw on the oblique ears that appeared on the horizontal part of the product. In the same way, you need to form a window opening.

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How to cut drywall sheets?

To perform this operation, you can use an ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades. The sheet should be placed on a flat surface. Next, with a simple pencil, you need to mark the cut line, and then cut the top of the cardboard with a knife. Next, the sheet must be shifted along the notch line to the extreme part of the support and slowly broken. When the sheet is returned to its original position, it will turn on edge and bend. On the other hand, the cardboard also needs to be cut, but not through and through. Then the sheet must be turned over and shifted to the extreme part of the support. As a result, it can be chipped.

To ensure a gap that can be easily sealed with a putty mixture in the future, a bevel with a slope of 22.5 ° must be formed on the cut edge of the sheet. To do this, you need to use a planer. A chamfer must also be made on that edge of the sheet that will adjoin the GKL strip placed above or below the sheet.

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How to properly fix drywall to the frame?

Next, the drywall sheets are attached to the frame. Sheets can be 120x120 cm, 120x250 cm and 120x300 cm. However, most often in living rooms there are ceilings more than 2.75 m high. Therefore, you will need to add small strips of plasterboard, since one sheet may not be enough.

The first sheet, which is installed close to the extreme part of the structure, should be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, along its entire length on one side, you need to cut a strip 5 cm wide.

The sheet is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm. The first step is to fix the extreme parts of the sheet, after which the product is attached in the middle. Screws must be installed every 25 cm. In some cases, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. Fasteners must be screwed in so that the caps go deep into the sheet.

Sheets are attached at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the floor. This is necessary in order to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

After fixing the first sheet, you will need to measure the remaining distance to the ceiling structure and cut off a piece of plasterboard of the appropriate length. It also needs to form a chamfer.

In the future, all sheets will need to be installed in a checkerboard pattern, there is no need to cut the chamfer. After the first row, the whole sheet must be installed under the ceiling, the missing part is mounted from below. In this way, one side of the wall can be sheathed.