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Instructions for the step-by-step construction of plasterboard partitions with your own hands. How to make a drywall partition How to make a drywall partition

September 28, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

To figure out how to make a drywall partition - even the simplest one - is worth any master. The thing is that structures on a metal or wooden frame, sheathed with gypsum boards, have a quite acceptable load-bearing capacity, while they are quite easy to assemble, and, if necessary, just as easy to dismantle.

An additional advantage of such a solution is its cost-effectiveness: if we need to redevelop at minimal cost, then better material can not found. Finally, the manufacture of drywall partitions is one of the most effective design techniques: by erecting one or more false walls, we can radically transform the room by dividing it into functional zones.

In any case, the technique is quite relevant, so the time that you need to study it will definitely be well spent. Moreover, below I have collected only the most important information tested on personal experience.

What do you need to work

materials

When planning the construction of plasterboard partitions, we need to first take care of the materials. The key role here will be played by the drywall itself, as well as the profile for its installation:

  1. For sheathing, we purchase sheets of drywall with a thickness of 12.5 mm (GOST 6266-97 “Gypsum board sheets. Specifications"). As a rule, when constructing structures in residential and utility rooms, standard drywall is used, but when dividing a bathroom into a separate bathroom and toilet, it is better to take a moisture-resistant one. Although this material is more expensive, it better resists swelling when moistened.
  2. Separately, it is worth mentioning the fire-resistant gypsum board (GKLO) and the combined version, which provides resistance to both moisture and high temperatures (GKLVO). The scope of their application is very limited, since where there is a risk of ignition, such partitions are very rarely erected - but it must be borne in mind that such sheets also exist!

  1. I prefer to make a frame for a partition from a galvanized steel profile. For the perimeter, we need a guide profile (PN / UW) from 50 to 100 mm, for vertical supports - a rack profile (PS / CW), the width of which will correspond to the width of the guide elements.

The guide profile is available in panels of a standard length of 3 m. With a rack profile, everything is a little more complicated: there are products of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. You need to choose according to the height of the ceiling in the room, since the vertical extension of the rack is highly undesirable. So be sure to take this into account when calculating!

  1. Sometimes instead of a steel profile for the manufacture of a frame, they use wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic. A partition made of bars and drywall can be cheaper, but in terms of strength it will be inferior to a structure with a metal base. In addition, wood is more prone to deformation, so I practically do not use this option. .

In addition to drywall and frame elements, we will need other materials for arranging the partition:

  • suspensions and other fasteners for plasterboard;
  • sealing tape, which is laid between the frame and supporting structures;
  • fasteners (self-tapping screws, dowel-nails with plastic sleeves, etc.);
  • wooden beam for decorating a doorway;
  • perforated corner for designing the corners of the structure;
  • primer for GKL;
  • putty on drywall;
  • serpyanka tape for gluing seams.

If necessary, the partition can be insulated or filled with a sound insulator - accordingly, for this you will need to purchase suitable materials(mats based on mineral fiber and analogues). It is also allowed to lay wiring inside such partitions: we will need the wires themselves, cable channels from non-combustible material, socket boxes and bases for switches.

Instruments

To fix the frame to the wall, concrete drills are needed

On the one hand, the construction of drywall partitions does not require the use of special devices, and therefore everyone can cope with this task. On the other hand, the set of tools for working with a profile and drywall is still extensive, and without it, work can become seriously complicated.

Be that as it may, I prefer to get down to business only with the following at hand:

  1. Perforator with a set of drills for concrete.
  2. Cordless screwdriver.

We immediately purchase a special bit-nozzle for GKL, which allows you to tighten the screws exactly to the desired depth. The price of this device is purely symbolic (100 - 150 rubles maximum), but how much time and nerves it saves!

  1. Crowns for cutting holes for the installation of sockets and switches.
  2. Scissors for metal (if a frame is being built from a bar - a saw for wood).
  3. Roulette.
  4. Level.
  5. Plumb.
  6. Hand tools - hammer, pliers, etc.
  7. Painting knife with replaceable blades.
  8. Drywall saw (you can do without it, but it is more convenient with it).
  9. Planer for cleaning the ends of the GKL and for jointing the seams between individual sheets.
  10. Brushes for priming the surface.
  11. Spatulas for finishing plasterboard.

Also, it will not be superfluous to think in advance how exactly we will carry out the sheathing. In standard houses or apartments, there are usually no difficulties, but in a room with a high (3 m or more) ceiling, you will have to use a special rack - otherwise it will not work to fix the profile and the sheathing under the very ceiling.

Information for budgeting

When designing a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to estimate the amount of financial costs in advance. If we plan to do everything with our own hands, then our budget will be limited only to the purchase and delivery of material. Of course, the cost of components for GKL partitions in different stores (and even more so in different regions) is different, but the general order of numbers can be found from the table I compiled:

Material unit of measurement Average cost, rubles
Drywall standard sheet 2500x1200x12.5 mm 200 — 250
– moisture resistant — 250 — 280
– fire resistant — 300 — 450
Guide profile PN panel 3000 mm 75 — 300
Rack profile PS panel 3000 – 4000 mm 150 — 350
Corner perforated profile panel 300 mm 40 — 125
Hanger for straight profile thing 10 -30
Single level connector thing 10 – 30
Sickle ribbon roll 20m x 50mm 30 — 60
Sealing tape roll 20m x 50mm 200 — 300
Dowel-nail for fastening the profile 200 pieces 320 – 450
Self-tapping screw for drywall 1000 pieces 250 – 500
Putty Fugenfuller Packing 25 kg 350 — 550
Putty Uniloft Packing 25 kg 1100 — 1500

Mounting technology

markup

So, we have finished with everything necessary, now let's look at how to make the partitions strong, even and beautiful. To date, the technology for mounting structures with plasterboard sheathing has been worked out very well and is described in sufficient detail in normative documents In my work, I focus primarily on:

  • SP 55-101-2000 "Enclosing structures using plasterboard sheets";
  • SP 163.1325800.2014 "Constructions using drywall and gypsum fiber sheets design and installation rules”;
  • VSN 27-95 "Instruction on the technology of installation and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on metal frame element-by-element assembly”, etc.

In addition, in the work it is worth considering the rules fire safety(SNiP 2.01.02-85, SNiP 21-01-97 and similar documents).

Let's start with the markup:

  1. We free the room in which the structure will be installed - in any case, it will interfere with us. We dismantle everything Decoration Materials: the frame must be installed exclusively on the bearing surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling.
  2. On one wall, we set aside the distance we need twice: once - on the floor, the second time - on the ceiling. We connect the obtained points, controlling the verticality of the line with a plumb line.

  1. We repeat the operations on the opposite wall.

  1. On the floor and on the ceiling we connect the resulting verticals: we should get a rectangle, which will form the contour of our partition.

  1. In the selected place, we mark the boundaries of the passage. If it is planned to install a door, then we make the passage wider than required - we will need a margin of space for the door frame.

Drawing and calculations

After that, we make a drawing on a sheet of paper, transferring the actual dimensions of our partition to it.

Be sure to designate the front and back side of the structure in the drawing. If this is not done, then there is a risk “in the park” to lay a door or other opening on the wrong side from which you planned. There were precedents!

  1. On the drawing, we mark the attachment points of the vertical rack profiles. Optimal step profile - 60 or 40 cm (respectively, 2 or 3 racks per standard GKL sheet 120 cm wide). It is undesirable to deviate from these figures, since in this way we will increase the consumption of material.
  2. Focusing on the drawing data, we calculate the number of profiles required for the construction of the frame. It is quite simple to consider the guide profile: we calculate the perimeter of the partition, divide the resulting figure by the length of one panel and round it up.
  3. With rack profiles, everything is somewhat more complicated. We need to determine the number of racks (each requires a separate profile panel) plus add the total length of the horizontal jumpers - they will be needed if we have to sheathe a partition with a height greater than a standard GKL sheet, i.e. over 2500 mm.

In the drawing, it is also worth “sketching” the layout of the sheets. I usually make two schemes - for the front and the wrong side. So it is much more convenient to adjust the placement of sheathing sheets, trying to ensure that the joints of the plates on different sides fall on different racks. For example, from the front surface, the joint falls on the third and fifth supports, and from the inside - on the second, fourth and sixth.

  1. When calculating, it is worth focusing on the configuration of your particular partition. To determine the material consumption, you can use the sketch above, illustrating the possible layout options for the GKL and the frame configuration.

After completing the calculations, we purchase the material, not forgetting about the stock: even experienced craftsmen have a marriage, and it is better to have an extra GKL sheet and an extra profile panel on hand.

Frame installation

Now I will tell you how to make a partition on a metal frame. We begin work with the installation of guide profiles:

  1. I cut the guide profile panel with scissors to the width of the room, and then stick it on it flat base sealing tape.

  1. I lay the panel on the floor in such a way that one of its faces (often the front) runs exactly along the marking line.

  1. Using a puncher with a drill, I drill holes in increments of 40 to 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be equal to the length of the plastic dowel + 5-10 mm.

  1. I hammer a plastic dowel into each hole with a hammer so that its neck is tightly pressed against the metal.
  2. I fix the dowel with a locking screw with a conical point - first I hammer the fasteners with a hammer, and then I make two or three turns with a screwdriver or a screwdriver to tighten.

AT wooden house it is better to install the frame not on dowels, but on wood screws. For fastening, I would recommend using phosphated fasteners with a wide head and deep thread, twisting it without pre-drilling - this will turn out to be many times more reliable.

  1. Using the same algorithm, I install guides on the walls and ceiling, forming a rectangular frame.

  1. Next, I attach the racks. I cut each part so that its length is 8-10 mm less than the height of the room, insert it into the guide profile and align it with a plumb line. After that, I fix the rack with self-tapping screws from below and from above.

The stiffener should look in the direction from which the skin begins. I usually fasten the sheets, moving from left to right, therefore I orient the profile with stiffeners to the left.

A little about fastening. Some craftsmen use special profile pliers instead of self-tapping screws, which work on the principle of a hole punch, punching a hole in the metal and bending the carved fragment for fixation. I tried it, but I didn’t find this device particularly convenient: it might just take some getting used to.

Another nuance concerns the hats of self-tapping screws. Sometimes (almost always) they make it difficult to press the GKL tightly against the profile, so I use a little trick: I attach the racks to the guide profile only on one side (from the inside). Then, when the GKL is sewn on the front side, I unscrew these screws and mount the wrong side trim. The rigidity of the connection, if it suffers, is insignificant.

I connect the racks with crossbars, which I install at the junction of the sheets horizontally.

  1. A few words should be said about doorway. Vertical racks along its edges must be strengthened. To do this, we insert into them either one more section of the profile (the configuration of Knauf parts allows this), or we lay wooden bars, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.

  1. I do the door partition (lintel) like this: I cut off a fragment of the rack profile about 20 cm more than the width of the opening. I cut the side faces exactly according to the dimensions of the opening, after which I bend on each side along the resulting segment of 10 cm. I insert the part between the side posts of the doorway and fix it with self-tapping screws.

  1. I definitely put at least two vertical posts above the door lintel - on them I will join the sheathing sheets from different sides.

Now that the frame is ready, we proceed to the final operations. So, at this stage, I usually make holes in the racks and pass a cable channel through them with wires for sockets and switches.

GKL sheathing

Instructions for installing drywall sheets on a prepared frame are not difficult. If we have prepared the load-bearing elements taking into account all the requirements, then the skin will go smoothly. If something is missed - and this happens even with experienced craftsmen - then you will have to correct the situation on the go, fortunately, there are quite enough opportunities for this.

  1. So, we start work from one of the corners (in our case, the left one). We cut the sheet of drywall on one side, cutting off about 5 - 6 cm - this section is usually made with a bevel and rounding to form more reliable joints.
  2. Sheets are cut with a knife or saw. Of course, it is advisable to adapt a workbench or a durable long table for this, but if it doesn’t work out, you can simply cut the slabs on the floor, placing a wooden plank under the cut. It is best to cut from two sides: they cut the sheet almost through, gently broke it, turned it over and cut through the cardboard on the other side. So the ends will turn out more accurate.

  1. We apply the GKL sheet to the frame so that the distance between the lower edge and the floor is about 10 mm (protection from moisture). Using self-tapping screws for plasterboard, we fix the sheet on the frame. The optimal fastening step is 15 cm, while it is desirable to indent from the edge of the sheet at least 10 - 15 mm.

  1. For the reliability of fixing drywall on the profile, it is very important that the screws are tightened correctly. In this case, the hat should be recessed by 0.5 - 1 mm, but not break through the cardboard layer. It was to comply with this rule above that I recommended using a special bit with a limiter: a metal ring simply will not allow us to tighten the self-tapping screw more than necessary.

  1. The next important aspect is the joining of sheets. You can connect the edges only on the rack profile. The significant width of such parts makes it easier to fit (1-2 cm in one direction or another does not play a special role), but still, sometimes you have to trim the edges of the plasterboard. When trimming, it is desirable to clean the end with a special planer and immediately chop off its corners by 450 - this way we will greatly facilitate the process of puttying the joint.

  1. When joining any elements, remember that the attachment points and seams should not coincide. So, we twist the self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets “in a row”, and lay the drywall panels with a seam offset. For example, when installing a partition in a house with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, first we put a whole sheet from below, and a narrow strip from above, and then vice versa - a narrow fragment from below, and then a whole sheet to the ceiling.

  1. Having sheathed one side, we pass to the other. At this stage, it is convenient to lay heat and sound insulating panels into the frame, make holes for socket boxes and switches with wiring output, etc.

  1. On the other hand, we perform sheathing according to the same algorithm. At the same time, I would like to remind you once again: if a joint was fixed “from the front” on one rack, then from the inside, the joint should fall on the adjacent support.

Finishing sheathed structure

After the installation of drywall is completed, the interior partition must be prepared for finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying decorative plaster, etc. How to do all the operations at this stage correctly - I will tell below.

The whole process can be roughly divided into four tasks:

  1. Masking defects in flat areas of plasterboard sheathing.
  2. Masking of places of fastening of self-tapping screws.
  3. Sealing seams between sheets of plasterboard.
  4. Forming the corners of the structure.

Here it is best to work according to this scheme:

  1. First, we check if the self-tapping screws protrude above the drywall plane, and if necessary, we twist them. Let's not overdo it!
  2. We cut off the peeling of cardboard, after which we carefully clean such areas with sandpaper. We do the same with any defects on flat surfaces.
  3. If we have not done this before (very in vain!) - we embroider the seams. To do this, carefully cut off the edges of the docked slabs with a knife, exposing the gypsum layer.

The joint of two whole panels with rounded or beveled ends does not need to be additionally embroidered. In any case, I limit myself to one or two passes of coarse sandpaper for better grip.

  1. We process the surface for better adhesion.
  2. We prepare a fairly thick putty (or buy a ready-made one - it will be more expensive, but less fuss).

  1. Using putty as a thick glue, we glue a perforated corner profile on all corners, and strips of serpentine tape on all joints. We process these areas in such a way that the putty covers the sickle and the perforated corner. Completely filling all holes and cavities under them.
  2. We align the corners first on one side, then on the other. With a square, we control the perpendicularity of the resulting planes.

  1. We process flat areas with putty, masking all defects and places of fixation of self-tapping screws.
  2. At the final stage, we overwrite all surfaces with abrasive material. Under decorative plaster rather large grain, but under the wallpaper and even more so for painting after the starting grinding, it is imperative to complete the finish - with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper.

Drywall constructions - fashionable and widely used design option for a house or apartment. The network has a lot of photos of interiors created from this material, looking at which many immediately have a desire to do something similar at home.

At the same time, hiring specialists is expensive and not always convenient. A completely logical question arises - how to make or something else from drywall with your own hands, at a convenient time for yourself?

Such an idea is quite feasible, the main thing is to master the techniques of metal parts, drywall installation and finishing of finished structures. There is nothing particularly complicated in these actions, you just need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat and how to do it. The question is of interest to many, so it should be considered in more detail.

Using drywall: the pros and cons

Drywall is a versatile material. Its properties provide much more opportunities than it seems at first glance. Advantages

  • Possibility to replace expensive furniture.
  • Thermal insulation. A layer of drywall effectively retains heat; if necessary, it can be reinforced with a layer of mineral wool or other insulation.
  • Light weight. It does not load the walls, does not create excessive pressure on the floors, although some structures look heavy and massive.
  • Fire safety. Only the cardboard layer can burn, which will not flare up on its own and will not cause a fire.
  • Flat smooth surface. Perfectly corrects or masks defects of walls and planes.
  • Flexibility. Oddly enough, drywall can be bent, giving designs smooth shapes. Of course, for this you need to know how it is done, certain skills will be required, but they are quite simple.
  • Water resistance. There are specially made brands of drywall that are resistant to moisture.
  • Ecological cleanliness and material safety.
  • Low price.

Such properties characterize the material from the most positive side, however, there are also limitations:

  • Fragility. The sheet can be broken, it cracks under deforming loads. The problem is solvable, but this circumstance must be taken into account when designing.
  • Weak soundproofing. The seemingly massive structure is hollow, it resonates, all sounds penetrate through it quite easily, which sometimes creates certain inconveniences. To resolve the issue, insulators are used - mineral wool or similar materials.
  • Weak load bearing capacity. If you need to hang on a plasterboard wall, wall cabinets or a TV, you need to worry about strengthening with a double layer of material in advance or install a supporting metal structure in the right place on the back side.

The disadvantages of drywall can be compensated, the main thing is to be aware of them and take this into account during design work.

Applications

Simplicity, ease of processing, quick installation (or dismantling), invariability of shape and size (unlike fiberboard or MDF, which change dimensions during operation), reliability and strength of supporting structures were the reason for wide use drywall in construction or finishing works.

Drywall constructions can be divided into several types that have a similar purpose:

  1. False wall, box. It is used in order to hide various communications from the observer - pipelines, electrical wiring, to correct irregularities or defects in the walls.
  2. Partition for zoning space. Designed to cut off a certain part of the room, for example, to separate the kitchen and living room.
  3. Interior wall. A full-fledged wall that separates two (or more) rooms, having sufficient strength and thickness.
  4. Separation of workspace in the office. Construction office partitions sometimes it helps to solve the issue of the lack of separate premises for accommodating employees' workplaces, creating work areas, offices, etc.

All these options can be quite complex in terms of design, include a lot of elements, details or parts. Partitions can be made deaf or translucent, with full or partial cut-off of space, creating a conditional border of zones.

Important! It is the ability to create complex forms that are attractive from an aesthetic point of view, as well as having high functional qualities, is the most valuable property of drywall as a building material.

The popularity of the material caused mass use, many samples of products or designs were created, among which there are very attractive samples. The network has a lot of photos that give food for imagination in independent design developments.

What material is better to choose?

Gypsum plasterboards (GKL) have several varieties. First of all, you should consider the general classification:

  1. GKL. regular material for interior decoration normal conditions. The sheet is gray, has a blue marking.
  2. GKLO. Refractory type of material. It has high resistance exposure to open flame, used in rooms with high fire hazard. Gray (some manufacturers have pink) sheet with red markings.
  3. GKLV. Moisture-resistant material, contains anti-fungal additives and silicone granules. Green leaf with blue markings.
  4. GKLVO. Moisture-fire-resistant drywall, has resistance to both fire and moisture. It is used for finishing rooms of increased danger according to these parameters. Green leaf with red markings.

In addition, the sheets are divided according to the type of edge:

  • PC. Straight edge, cut at a 90 degree angle, covered with cardboard.
  • UK. Thinned edge, has a slight bevel from one side of the sheet to the edge. The bevel is needed to compensate for the thickness of the reinforcing tape pasted before puttying.
  • ZK. Rounded edge.
  • PLC. Rounded edge on the front side of the sheet.
  • PLUK. Rounded hem on one side combined with a thinned edge.

Standard GKL thickness - 6.9 and 12.5 mm.

The thinner the sheet, the more convenient it is for them to finish curved surfaces, but the bearing capacity of such a sheet is much lower.

Sheet sizes - 2500 or 3000 mm with a width of 1200 mm. There are smaller sheets that are easier to work with, but they are more expensive.

Instructions for the construction of walls and partitions

Before starting work on creating a structure, a lot of preparatory steps should be taken. The most important of these is the creation of the project, the design solution, and also − careful study all necessary operations and actions.

Attention! Before starting all work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the methods of connecting the metal parts of the frame. This will help to avoid errors in the calculation of the frame, as well as the entire project as a whole.

The creation of a drywall construction can be divided into two types:

  1. Self-supporting structure, the rigidity of which does not require support.
  2. A structure that is supported by a wall.

The creation of such products has some differences. Let's look at them with examples.

Interior wall

First of all, it should draw up a project- sketch, drawing of the future product. It should include all the calculated information - the consumption of materials per 1 m2 (both plasterboard and metal parts, self-tapping screws), the presence and shape of openings, doors, the presence of communications - electrical wiring, lamps, sockets.

One of the most important points - choice of GKL thickness. Since it is planned to build a wall, the thickest sheet should be used - 12.5 mm. This thickness will help strengthen the wall and avoid accidental destruction of the GKL. The minimum thickness is 9 mm, but in this case you should reinforce the frame and install more frequent racks with crossbars.

The calculation of the required amount of GCR is quite simple. It is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall, subtract the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe opening from it and multiply the resulting value by 2. The result will be the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plasterboard required to build the walls.

At the same time, it is necessary to have a small margin just in case, since no one is immune from mistakes.

The calculation of the number of metal parts is somewhat more complicated. Based on the design drawing, the required number of uprights, rails and crossbars should be calculated. It must be remembered that the location of the racks must correspond to the width of the GKL sheet.

If such a calculation is difficult, then you can refer to online calculators, of which there are quite a lot in the network and get the desired values. To check the result, it is recommended to duplicate the calculation on another resource (or on several), this will help clarify and correct the values.

After that, you can start assembly work. We begin assembling the wall frame. Marking is made on the floor and the lower guide is installed. You can start work from above, from the ceiling, but from below it is more convenient. According to the assembly drawing, the frame is assembled - racks, top rail, etc.

Assembled rigidly fixed to the floor. With the help of the building level, the vertical is carefully established along all the racks and the locations of the self-tapping screws are marked, the pitch of which is at least 30-40 cm.

Then the frame is slightly shifted to the side and holes for dowels are made with a perforator at the intended places. Then the frame is again installed in place and rigidly fixed.

Alternatively, you can first set a perimeter in the form of ceiling and floor guides connected by racks mounted on the walls. The accuracy of the plane in this case is determined precisely by the wall studs. After installing the perimeter, all other vertical and transverse elements are mounted.

To create a doorway in the lower rails, a gap is required for the width of the opening. Side racks are installed with shelves to the opening. In the presence of door block they need reinforce with wooden beams, or alternatively install double racks next to each other.

If an arch is planned in the hall, then the bending configuration is made from the same profile in advance. Usually, in the profile, wedges are cut out with a certain step along the side, which makes it possible to bend it, and the desired bend is attached according to the template. Then the profile is mounted on the frame.

All frame elements adjacent to the opening are installed shelf towards the opening, otherwise it will be impossible to fasten the end parts from the GKL.

After that, the installation of the GKL begins. Pieces are cut off right size and attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. GKL installation is done on one side, then electrical wiring is laid, mineral wool or foam plastic is installed for sound insulation and GKL is installed on the back side.

Produced construction finish– putty, painting, etc. Doors (if any), lamps or sockets are installed. The partition is ready!

Attention! When creating a wide (reinforced) partition, the procedure is similar to that indicated, but the frame consists of two profile layers, forming a wall of the required thickness.

How to make a drywall wall with your own hands - step by step instructions:

Phased construction of a false wall

False walls are used to mask various communications- plumbing or gas pipes, electrical cables, etc. For the construction of a false wall (box), first of all, it will be necessary to create design drawings. Based on the drawings, the amount of materials is calculated and markings are made on the load-bearing wall.

According to the markings, a metal profile is installed on the wall, which serves as a support for the frame of the box. If the masked communications have a large thickness, then a three-dimensional frame structure is created, which allows you to hide all communication elements.

The inside of the box insulated selected material (if necessary), electrical wires for fixtures are laid according to the plan.

Pieces of GKL are cut and installed. The more complex the false wall design, the more GKL waste will be. This is unproductive, but inevitable, especially when there are many elements with round or curved parts.

The installed GKL is puttied, processed according to technological standards and covered with trim.

Features of mounting a false wall in a roller:

How to assemble a corner wall from drywall?

Often, a corner wall is built to separate part of the room into a separate compartment. Unlike the usual corner connecting two adjacent GKL planes, the corner wall becomes a supporting structure, from which connection strength is required.

The corner wall has two points of support on the main walls and gusset, having fastening only to the floor and ceiling. The angle in such structures is a critical element that must be done according to certain rules.

First of all, the corner is formed by two racks (Don't try to do just one!), rigidly interconnected along the side surface and the shelf.

The connected racks are a double rack having a section in the form of a rectangular bar. The connection of the corner with the formation of a void at the junction of the planes is unacceptable, since cracks will certainly appear on it.

At the outer corner, a double layer of GKL is used, which ensures the strength and rigidity of the formed corner. Such a measure is by no means reinsurance, and the existing doorway creates an additional load on one of the sections.

Therefore, reinforcement of the wall is necessary, the outer corners are necessarily reinforced with metal perforated corners (curvilinear outer corners are reinforced with plastic corners) and covered with a layer of special putty. For external corner walls it is best to use thick GKL - 12.5mm, which together form a solid plane.

Partition design options for zoning

There are a lot of design options for partitions inside the room. The possibilities of the material provide a wide field of activity for creativity. Simple and complex designs are offered, combining furniture functions with wall elements.

Choosing an option to use in your own project can be based on ideas gleaned from the Internet. At the same time, it is necessary realistically evaluate your capabilities, take into account the degree of complexity of the design that is planned to be created.

Important! The creation of drywall structures can completely change the entire appearance of the room, necessitating a complete repair and replacement of furniture.

The most effective solutions that completely unite the room in single ensemble when drywall constructions do not look like separate parts, but are fully integrated into the interior.

For example, decorating a bedroom in the same style and color scheme with gypsum board structures will create a unique room with an original and sophisticated look. A very important element of decor - Spotlights, highlighting the structure from different points.

The creation and use of GKL structures can pursue both a purely decorative and a practical goal - for example, serve as regiments for books, stands for flowers, TV, audio equipment.

Using false walls helps reduce the amount of furniture in the room, freeing up space and giving extra volume.

Zoning of the premises can be carried out both in the form of conventionally marked boundaries, and in the form of dense partitions with openings that completely cut off part of the room.

Both solutions have the right to exist, but it should be remembered that a complete partition can significantly reduce the illumination of one of the parts of the room, disrupt natural ventilation.

From these positions, sometimes a better solution is to create a transparent partition that looks like a bookcase, permeable to light rays and air flows. Such a partition is quite good room sharing into zones, but does not provide privacy.

The choice of one or another type is up to the owner of the premises, who is guided by his own tastes and preferences.

How to fix a hole in a drywall wall?

The formation of unwanted holes in the material is an unpleasant feature of drywall. There are two ways to close such a hole:

  1. Applying a payment.
  2. Sealing with a piece of plasterboard, repeating the shape of the hole and installed flush with the general plane of the wall.

If there are no questions for the first option, a piece of plasterboard is cut out a little larger than the hole being sealed, glued (or installed on screws) and finished in the same style with the rest of the wall. The option is simple, but the patch remains a reminder of the hole.


In order to install patch flush with the main plane, it is necessary to insert a strip of material (for example, a wooden lath) into the hole, somewhat narrower, but longer than the hole.

To hold the strip, you can fasten a cord to the central part of the strip, which must then be removed. The longer ends of the strip are attracted to the main layer of the plasterboard with screws, as a result, a support for the patch is formed, which is inserted into the hole with glue.

After curing, excess glue is removed, the plane is finally polished with sandpaper or a special grater, then the entire area is finished to match the surroundings.

How is plasterboard walls removed?

One of important features GKL structures - the possibility of quick and not too dusty dismantling. This procedure can be done in two ways:

  1. With the preservation of the material.
  2. Without saving.

Dismantling without preservation has a single purpose - destroy the existing structure. It is made quite simply - the gypsum board is broken through and removed, the metal elements are disassembled and all materials are taken out of the room.

  • All foreign objects in the room must be covered from dust with plastic wrap.
  • First of all, you need to remove the doors, lamps and other decorative elements.
  • Remove the tape or corners from the joints and corners of the sheets.
  • Clean the putty from the locations of the screws.
  • Remove the sheets, disassemble the metal frame.

Attention! When disassembling, be aware of the wiring inside the structure. If possible, it should be disconnected from the network.

Careful disassembly of the structure can not damage the materials at all, providing the possibility of reuse.

Is installing a room divider a redevelopment?

It is believed that any change in the plan of the apartment, regardless of the material or composition of the changes made, is a redevelopment and must be legalized, agree with the competent authorities.

Nevertheless, if an ordinary box is made that closes communications, then it is difficult to call such a change a redevelopment.

According to article 25 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, redevelopment is a change in the configuration of housing that requires entry into the passport.

Since all the permits required for redevelopment are done for a long time and painfully, with the provision of a project, obtaining permits and other adventures, in practice they usually do it simply - they do all the work, and then de facto bring the documentation into line (or not bring it at all) .

Most homeowners who have gone through the process of legalizing work say that it would be much easier to pay a fine for unauthorized redevelopment (2000-2500 rubles) and arrange what is already available than to collect mountains of papers, sometimes with an incomprehensible purpose.

Any consultation with BTI employees or other responsible organizations will have one result, obliging to perform a lot of lengthy and not very clear actions. They can be understood, it is their duty. But the decision, as always, is made by the owner of the property.

Independent production of partitions or boxes from GKL is a simple task, requiring a minimum number of tools, but bringing good, and sometimes - just great results.

The main thing is to take the time to clarify all unclear points for yourself. Then the result will please all the residents of the house or apartment, and also surprise the guests.

If it is necessary to build a wall, partition, arch or drywall niche, it is extremely important to know not only the technical aspects of installation, but also the features of the material itself.

Peculiarities

A drywall sheet is a lightweight and flexible material with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material, you can both build a wall and build an ornate interior structure.

The structure of the gypsum board (gypsum plasterboard) is fully consistent with the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached with glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

  • allow you to create perfect flat surfaces vertically and horizontally;
  • allow you to build curvilinear structures, as well as individual elements of the various shapes and complexity;
  • they are distinguished by good air permeability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy microclimate in the room;
  • differ in sound insulation;
  • characterized by high thermal insulation;
  • made from environmentally friendly safe materials, do not cause allergies;
  • fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in the event of a fire;

  • have a low weight;
  • easy to install, do not require professional skills and special equipment when facing;
  • the price of GKL and its consumables is affordable;
  • the coating of this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
  • leave little waste.

The use of GKL can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work, for example, a plasterboard partition can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar brick structure will take two or more days.

Like any building material, drywall has some drawbacks that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they collapse when mechanically damaged, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

Yes, and attaching something to such a coating is quite problematic - only dowels with screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy, it will cause the wall to collapse at any time.

Types of structures

With the help of drywall, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

  • walls that divide the room;
  • partitions of any shape;
  • complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has a practical function or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

GKL partitions are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made of other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Gypsum fiber partitions are produced in a short time, their cost is much lower than brick or wood options. The false wall inside remains hollow, which allows you to lay the necessary engineering communications and produce additional insulation.

The material is lightweight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience with the usual tools that are available in every home.

There are a lot of options for partitions from GKL. The following are distinguished:

  • by profile type: regular and arched;
  • on functional purpose: temporary or capital;
  • by type of design: deaf or with an opening for a door or window;
  • according to the type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls made of gypsum boards differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are mounted in order to hide the flaws of the room and close the radiators. They do not require serious fasteners, they are often complemented by stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually, the same elements are fixed with glue or mounted on a frame. Models with a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify the general appearance of the room, contribute to its division into different zones and add additional functionality to the finishing elements. Such walls and partitions are installed in a frame way and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

  • the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
  • sheathing from GKL sheets is used for walls or partitions;
  • wall filling - glass wool or mineral wool, contributing to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the specifications There are several varieties of drywall:

  • Wall plasterboard characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives, it is used for mounting walls and partitions.
  • Ceiling plasterboard has a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, a length of 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification has found wide application in the construction of niches and door arches as well as in ceiling cladding. It differs from the first version only in thickness.

  • GKLV- It is a moisture resistant material. Its thickness is the same as wall option, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length is 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity (in bathrooms and shower rooms).
  • GKLO- This is a drywall sheet with fire-resistant parameters. It has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber includes active components that are resistant to high temperatures and burning, all this is enhanced by special fire-retardant impregnations. The material is widely used in those rooms in which increased fire safety requirements are imposed, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard coating for all types of GKL is resistant to fire. This material does not burn, but at most only chars. But the core resists the flame only at the GKLO.

  • GKLVO- this is a moisture-resistant material that combines all the advantages of GKLV and GKLO.
  • Arched plasterboard used to create exquisite wave-like structures and rounded interior elements. Its width meets the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. A small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass filaments into the composition, causes increased flexibility and plasticity of the material. Such sheets have a rather high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes Finishing work more expensive.

Design

Drywall has found application in cladding surfaces and creating decorative elements in the room.

Ceiling

To date, drywall is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and building multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is required for design in the following situations:

  • with uneven ceilings;
  • if necessary, hide engineering communications laid from above - pipes, a massive ventilation duct, unaesthetic cable and others;
  • for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Finishing the ceiling using GKL can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any interior decoration work is associated with the installation of drywall. It is it that is used to create a perfectly even coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements of a design structure. In addition to the decorative function, GKL also has a practical purpose - creates enhanced sound absorption and insulation of the room. Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall with glue or on a pre-assembled frame, as a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater structural strength, GKL is laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard cladding is carried out in any premises, it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze through in winter.

A plasterboard wall with thermal insulation contributes to the insulation of the room, prevents the accumulation of dangerous condensate and the appearance of fungus. Finishing plasterboard walls can be any.

Floor

Drywall can also be used for dry flooring. Of course, only extra strong sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to mechanical damage are used for this. Such a coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard top coat- parquet, linoleum, carpet, tile or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - this is a high speed of work and their efficiency.

GKL is often used in design for the construction of multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

To create partitions, drywall is the number 1 material. It is most often used to divide a room and create a stylish and functional space zoning. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers in the interior look very impressive. drywall constructions, and in houses with small children they are simply indispensable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hinged elements. Niches are used to place small decorative elements in them that make the room cozy. These can be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, lighting is mounted in them, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches, special attention should be paid to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only take out light objects.

frame

Most often, work on facing the surface with drywall is performed in a frame way, for this a wooden or metal crate is mounted. At the same time, it is very important to apply the correct markup, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall largely depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor from where the mounting of the carrier panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the markup is its width. Perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall, markings are applied for rack metal profiles. The marking is presented in the form of vertical lines with a step of 50-60 cm, in the future, when attaching drywall to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that one wall is first finished, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the laying of plasterboard, and only then is the transition to the next surface made.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

  • marks on the floor and walls must be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
  • installation of suspensions is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
  • rack metal profiles are fixed in the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
  • the building level controls the vertical along the base and shelves, after which you need to make a finishing fixation with self-tapping screws.

Application area

Drywall is used for various options performances such as:

  • ceiling finishes;
  • installation of partitions;
  • giving the walls perfect evenness;
  • construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, plinths;
  • masking unaesthetic and damaged surfaces;
  • repair of old coatings;
  • giving relief to surfaces;
  • creation of multi-level structures;
  • insulation, soundproofing of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance, as a rule, is used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widely used when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when telephone and Internet cables, plumbing systems and heating pipes are required inside, as well as ventilation devices. Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. For this, an ordinary construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades is used. The sequence of actions in this case is described by the instruction, according to which it is necessary to perform the following actions:

  • the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
  • marking is applied with a pencil;
  • using a knife, cardboard is cut from the outside;

  • GKL is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is carefully broken along the notch line;
  • the drywall panel returns to its original position, placed on edge and bent;
  • cardboard is also cut through from the inside, while the blade should not pass through;
  • sheet is turned over inside, is again placed on the support and finally broken.

After the sheet is prepared, you should proceed to the direct assembly of the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

  • along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor, guides are attached, for this, self-tapping screws are used;
  • a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
  • planks are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
  • stiffening ribs are fixed on self-tapping screws;

  • further, communications, wires and cables are carried out in the cavity, they are also filled with mineral wool;
  • a drywall sheet is attached directly on top of the frame;

  • the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then polished;
  • a primer is applied over the panels and finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to the following points when installing the GKL:

  • the sheet is attached to metal profiles using self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm;
  • First of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then the central part. The self-tapping screw is placed in increments of 10–25 cm;
  • the self-tapping screw is screwed in such a way that the caps “drown” slightly in the drywall; in no case should it stick out above the surface;
  • if possible, before starting the lining, you should watch a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely represented in hardware stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, so if stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly damaged. To avoid problems and purchase the highest quality product, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

  • try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
  • evaluate the conditions in which the gypsum board was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

  • personally inspect each sheet of GKL purchased, it should not have chips and deformations. No crooked bends, dents or scratches are allowed on a good quality product. Any violation of the integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
  • Loading and unloading must be carefully monitored. Even if a drywall sheet was purchased in perfect condition, this does not guarantee that it will arrive in the same form. If the product was purchased and paid for, but the defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not apply to it;
  • if possible, do not purchase the entire batch at once with the required quantity. To begin with, it is worth buying one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips, a high-quality sheet must have a strictly uniform core, a cut without inclusions, and the knife must go smoothly and smoothly when cutting;
  • if you decide to buy goods from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that a miser always pays twice. Handicraft products can not only crumble and break, but also be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from fakes and marriage, you should give preference to products of well-known brands.

About 70% of the Russian construction market is occupied by the products of the German concern Knauf. This giant has production facilities all over the world. Only in Russia there are about 10 factories for the production of building materials. Many people associate Knauf with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market falls on the share of other European brands - Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global drywall market. In 2002, it took first place in terms of output, leaving all the main competitors far behind. A distinctive feature of the GKL of this brand is its high environmental safety, confirmed by the certificates "Leaf of Life", "Ecomaterial". In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than other brands. However, the price for it is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge is a Polish manufacturer that has established the production of drywall all over the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of the number of production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge drywall has a fairly affordable price. It was this company at the beginning of our century that made a real revolution in the manufacture of drywall, bringing to the market sheets of a semicircular shape, all edges of which are pasted over with cardboard. Such processing of panels has become a kind of hallmark of the company.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. Among the leading Russian manufacturers, the following can be distinguished:

  • "Gypsum" (Volgograd)- produces drywall under the well-known brand "Volma". The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance and reasonable price.
  • Gifas (Sverdlovsk)- produces products of exceptionally high quality, which in terms of their operational parameters are not inferior even to popular European brands.

  • Abdullingips (Kazan)- launched the production of conventional GKL and GKLV, has a low price compared to other Russian counterparts.
  • "Golden Group Gypsum" (Tolyatti)- produces drywall sheets on the equipment of the French concern Lafarge. Products differ in exclusive quality and the favorable price.

Today it is difficult to imagine the repair of an apartment in an old house without redevelopment. They change the configuration or number of rooms with their own hands with the help of interior walls. They are created from a suitable building material - brick, foam block or GVL. But the simplest and most practical solution for dividing space is interior.

Why drywall? It is easy to install with your own hands, durable, and the weight of the GKL is small. The sheet is small in thickness, so the design of it does not take up extra space. In addition, GKL is a good soundproof plus fire-resistant material. The main thing is that they build such a wall of drywall with their own hands. GKL forgives mistakes, and even inexperienced builders get a smooth wall from it.

Dividing a room with plasterboard sheets

For work, you will need a plasterboard, a rack and guide profile, soundproofing material, self-tapping screws, dowels and tools. After filling the surface new wall will have to paint, glue wallpaper on it or ceramic tiles. Finishing material is also needed.

Venerable builders recommend Knauf materials. For do-it-yourself work, it is better to choose them. It doesn’t matter if it is a slab, profile, putty or primer - Knauf quality is always on top. Knauf mineral wool is used as sound insulation in residential premises and industrial facilities.

Before the purchase Supplies calculate the amount required. For this purpose, it is determined whether the partition will be multilayered. As a rule, it is made single-layer, but sometimes it is necessary to strengthen it with a second layer of plasterboard, for example, if it is planned to attach heavy structures to it - a boiler or a hanger.

The strength of the structure depends on the thickness of the profile - bearing (CW) and guide (UW). It must be at least 0.55 mm.

The connection of profiles is carried out by the so-called "fleas" - self-tapping screws 11 mm long. They have a sharp tip or in the form of a gimlet and drill through metal up to 2 mm. It is difficult to use them - they always strive to slip out and get lost. Therefore, if you are going to do repairs with your own hands, they buy them with a margin, and use the PH-2 nozzle when working. Self-tapping screws with a tip without a gimlet are preferable.


Mounting materials

To attach the guides to the main walls and ceiling, dowels and self-tapping screws are required, which are hammered. A suitable dowel is with a diameter of 6 mm. If the wall is with a loose surface, take dummies and self-tapping screws with a smaller diameter of 1-2 mm. For a metal frame, you need self-tapping screws for metal 2.5 cm long, and for wood - the same length, but for wood.

In the process of sewing, the structure is prepared for the installation of electrical wiring and other communications. To do this, cuts in the plaster should be provided. Draw an approximate wiring diagram and follow it to avoid difficult-to-correct errors. The wires are distributed in free places and attached to the profile.

Soundproofing is performed after sheathing one side of the partition. To do this, a heater is laid between the profiles - mineral wool. It is cut a little wider and thicker than the opening so that it fits snugly between the carrier profile. Its thickness is not less than the width of the partition. It is better to use large or whole pieces to get rid of cracks immediately.


sheathing

Do not forget about gloves, otherwise you can hurt your hands. Those suffering from respiratory diseases should work in a respirator. Cotton wool is installed in one "window" and the place is immediately closed with plaster. This will reduce the amount of dust in the air.

If on one side the cladding device goes in one direction, then on the other side the drywall is fixed in the reverse order. This will eliminate the risk of overlapping seams on the uprights.

You can immediately close the opening with a sheet, and then make a cutout on the spot with a knife (for example, a paint knife) or a hacksaw. About 60 pieces of self-tapping screws are required per sheet of drywall. Make sure that their hats are sunken when screwing in. This will facilitate subsequent puttying.

What why

The work is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

  • GKL is screwed to the profile in increments of 25 cm. The second layer is fastened with self-tapping screws after 60 cm.
  • The edges of the scraps are processed with a rasp. Screws must not be driven into the corners and edges of the sheets. 5 cm and 1.5 cm recede from them, respectively.
  • When one side is ready, the device is opposite.
  • For greater confidence, the back side of the profile is glued with soundproof tape.
  • The plates of the second layer are fixed in a checkerboard pattern so that the seams do not coincide with the seams of the first. The spacing is at least 40 cm.

Putty works

Preparing for finishing

When the wall is almost ready, start puttying. But first, the seams are embroidered. The chamfer is made 45 degrees with a knife. The next stage is priming, sealing the seams with a sickle and puttying. The seams are coated with a gypsum mixture using a spatula. The outer corners of the doorway are reinforced with a corner perforated profile.

When the seams dry, treat the surface with an acrylic primer (preferably from Knauf) and proceed to puttying. One layer of putty is enough if the surface will be pasted over with wallpaper. If it is prepared for painting, then one more layer is needed - the finishing one.

After complete drying, grouting and grinding is required. This operation is carried out with the help of graters and trowels with numbers from 100 to 150. Dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Knauf system

The Knauf company enjoys a well-deserved trust among builders. Recently, the so-called partitions according to the Knauf system have gained popularity. The difference from the usual ones is that their installation is carried out exclusively using the materials of this manufacturer.

The Knauf profile is known for the fact that after connecting the parts on the resulting wall, there are no bumps and extra protrusions. This helps to save on subsequent finishing.

The video shows the process of installing an interior partition from GKL:

Knauf technology involves the use of moisture resistant sheets own production. Knauf also offers complete kits for assembling frames of varying complexity. They include profiles, corners and other elements of various shapes - this is practically a designer. The material is highly resistant to mechanical stress and water. The company offers five standard sizes of plasterboard, which helps to speed up the assembly. As a heater and sound insulator, Knauf mineral wool is recommended, which has the best performance in your class.

In contact with

Quite often in new apartments there are rooms that are too large, which would be better divided into two smaller rooms. Drywall partitions help to cope with this task. The hl device allows you to make an excellent partition that does not let noise through and retains heat in both newly formed rooms. Installation of gypsum partitions is a simple matter, so quite often a gypsum partition is made by hand. How to make a drywall partition, you will learn from this article. Also, you can learn about the advantages of a plasterboard partition with your own hands, and get acquainted with the intricacies that the installation of plasterboard partitions includes with step-by-step instructions.

What is this article about

Advantages of drywall

Before you start creating a drywall partition with your own hands, you need to answer one important question. Why is it best to use drywall partitions to divide a room? Why are other options worse? The fact is that drywall sheets have a number of advantages over other materials.

  • Installation of plasterboard partitions is very easy, since this material is extremely easy to process.
  • The material is quite light in itself, which facilitates the installation of drywall partitions.
  • Installing drywall partitions will require a minimum investment of time.
  • Due to the cheapness of the material, the installation of plasterboard partitions is relatively cheap. So you can make a drywall partition with minimal financial costs.
  • If you are thinking about how to make a drywall partition as similar as possible to the rest of the walls in the house, then you don’t have to worry. Plasterboard sheets are practically no different from the main walls.
  • The device of partitions from drywall and drywall allows you to lay all the necessary communications directly through the frame.
  • A variety of niches and designs go well with such artificial walls, so the installation of HL partitions can be called quite flexible.
  • The drywall partition device creates a much more reliable sound insulation than an ordinary wall.
  • The device of partitions from HL is a dust-free process. Of course, cutting drywall sheets or gypsum-fiber counterparts will create a lot of debris, but the installation itself does not carry dirt around the room.

To build a partition with your own hands from drywall, first you need to assemble a frame from metal profiles. The device of partitions from HL also allows the construction wooden frame, but this, roughly speaking, is already the last century. Therefore, it is better to put the assembly of metal.

Types of profiles for creating a frame

To build the frame we need, simple ceiling profiles will not work, since the installation of HL partitions requires a stronger fastening. For such structures, special guide profiles are used, which are called PN or UW. They come in different sizes, but they all have one length - three meters. They are used in the same way as ceiling guides.

Rack profiles for partitions are called PS. It is important that the rack profiles have exactly the same width as the guides, otherwise the frame will not be installed. It makes no sense to even try to mount such profiles in the apartment together. Unlike guides, rack profiles have different lengths - from three to four meters. Other sizes are provided for cases with high ceilings.

It is advisable to choose profiles that are wide enough, but not if you are going to build a two-layer sheathing. Think about this before attaching the frame.

Tools and materials

In order to make a partition, you will need the following.

  • Guide metal profiles
  • Rack metal profiles
  • Tape to reinforce fastening
  • Dowel-nails to secure the gypsum structure
  • Cord breaking device
  • 2m laser or bubble level
  • Plasterboard sheets twelve and a half millimeters thick
  • Serpyanka
  • A hammer
  • Roulette
  • Stationery knife
  • screwdriver
  • Perforator
  • Self-tapping screws for metal
  • Self-tapping screws with a pers-washer
  • acrylic primer
  • Putty
  • Metal shears
  • Spatulas

To calculate the consumption of materials, you can use our calculator:

  • Partition in 1 layer GKL
  • Partition in 2 layers GKL

*Attention! All results are approximate - the accuracy depends on the material of the walls, the condition and shape of the room

Frame installation

Before proceeding with the installation of the frame, you yourself need to draw up its diagram in order to have a clear idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat the device of partitions from hl should be like. This is done quite easily, you just need to draw up a technical map of the frame. Routing should contain all design parameters. The internal technology for drawing up a drawing may differ for everyone, but all important nodes must be present in it so that the installation of hl partitions does not suffer.

Next, you should mark the walls in order to clearly see what needs to be mounted and where. At this stage, a laser level will help us a lot, which will allow us to make a fairly even drawing on the walls and on the floor so that we can navigate it during repairs. Along the location of the future partition, apply the same lines to the floor, ceiling and walls, which should be in the same plane. Once you've done this, attach along the lines the metal profiles that form the base of the frame. Attach them to the wall with self-tapping screws. It is better to use a screwdriver or a puncher for this operation.

It is important to remember that the step between the fasteners should be approximately thirty to forty centimeters. It is these profiles that you need to pay attention to in a special wall. Especially on their fastening, since these profiles form, as it were, the foundation of the entire frame, which means that they serve as a support for all structures and take on the bulk of the load from the weight of the partition.

Next you need to install vertical racks. With their disposition there is one important nuance. The distance between them directly depends on the width drywall sheet. The fact is that one drywall sheet should be located on three rack-mount metal profiles. Two rack profiles are located on the sides drywall sheet, and the third - exactly in the middle. It is very important that two sheets located side by side rest with their edges on the same rack profile of the frame. Based on this, you need to determine the distance between them.

The installation of rack profiles can be started from any wall on which a profile is installed with self-tapping screws, which acts as the basis of the frame. From it you need to count sixty centimeters, half the width drywall sheet. These are the places where the rack profiles need to be fixed to the ceiling and floor main profile.



Creating a doorway

For any partition you need a doorway. You will not completely limit part of the room from yourself, will you? The profiles of the doorway are under the most intense load, so it is important to pay special attention to them. It is necessary to install profiles with a shelf towards the opening. To give maximum strength and rigidity, you need to insert a wooden beam and fix it from the inside with self-tapping screws. The size of the beam, at the same time, must fully correspond to the size of the profile, and fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out along the side shelves.

The doorway is formed by one cross member, which determines the height of the future door by its size. To do this, an opening in the shape of the letter P is formed from the profiles. It must be installed and secured with its feet up. The size of the horizontal post in this design determines the width of the doorway, and hence the width of the door.

If you want to make an arch in the doorway, then the shape in the form of the letter P will not work. Approximately the same design is made, but with the appropriate configuration. We'll have to bend the horizontal rack. To do this, use scissors for metal. With their help, we make cuts on the profile along the entire length. After that, it will easily bend without losing its strength.

Windows and shelves in the partition

One of the possible non-standard solutions may be the installation of windows in the partition. This is done easily. The same principle is used as in the case of the doorway. You just need to install horizontal profiles between the racks according to the size of the window opening. The easiest way to implement this solution is to mount cross profiles between adjacent racks, but in this case you are very limited in terms of window size. The standard width will be sixty centimeters. If you want to install more narrow window, then it will be necessary to install vertical ones between two horizontal profiles in order to reduce the width of the opening. To do this, cut pieces of profiles of the desired size and install them between the cross-sections. This method will allow you to install as many windows of the desired size, so you have the opportunity to create a unique design built on small windows.

Installing shelves has some technical difficulties, which makes many abandon this idea. Shelves are either built-in or hanging. Hanging shelves are much easier to install. They are installed in the same way as on a regular wall, but with built-in shelves, everything will be much more complicated. To install them, it is necessary to change the structure of the frame. lower part partitions will have to be expanded, and the middle part will need to be expanded horizontally. If you do not have sufficient funds and time, then you should not start such changes in the design.

sheathing drywall sheets

The plating process is pretty standard. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame on both sides with self-tapping screws. If this is necessary, then two layers of drywall sheathing are installed. In this case, the partition will give an additional advantage in the form of strength, sound insulation and thermal insulation.

Drywall sheets will have to be cut, and if you did not make any windows and built-in shelves, then the space will need to be left only for the door. Otherwise, it will be necessary to trim the skin so as not to close the window opening. This is not a complicated procedure, but it has one nuance. A lot of drywall will go nowhere, since the remains of the cut sheets are unlikely to be used with benefit.

This completes the installation of an interior partition made of plasterboard sheets. It remains only to putty the partition and do the design. Here you can let your imagination run wild or find your favorite style among the examples below.

Some of the above interiors will require not only finishing, but also changes in the structure and design of the partition.