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How to make a door to the barn with your own hands and what is required in the process. Entrance metal doors for utility blocks and sheds Wooden door for a shed by hand

At each summer cottage or on the territory of a private house, there must be a built barn. In it we contain various tools and other inventory or temporarily unnecessary things. Like any building on the site, the barn must have a protective structure. Today, in hardware stores or markets, you can easily purchase and install a ready-made door. But why create additional costs for yourself if you can create such a structure with your own hands from wood. If you do not know how to make a door to a barn from boards with your own hands, then all the information can be viewed on thematic sites or other sources.

Doors to the barn - how to start building?

Any capital building must be equipped with a practical and reliable protective structure. You can quite easily make a door to the barn with your own hands, while using wooden boards as a building material.
To make a wooden door, you will need the following materials:

  • boards;
  • slats;
  • joiner's glue;
  • plywood;
  • fasteners;
  • accessories;
  • furniture dowels;
  • nails;
  • hardboard or foam.

Required tool:

  • jigsaw;
  • drill;
  • a hammer.

Before assembling the door from the boards, it is necessary to take measurements of the doorway into which the wooden structure will be installed. You need to determine exactly what size the wooden box and the doors themselves will be. After the measurements are taken, you can begin to prepare the materials. To assemble a wooden shield, it is necessary to carefully select boards without any serious defects - chipped edges, deep cracks, as well as uneven longitudinal sections. If such defects are present, then low-quality wood must be replaced with a more durable material. Selected boards must be cut so that they have the same thickness of 2.5 - 3 centimeters. Using a jigsaw, cut the boards, guided by the previously determined measurements of the doorway.

Do-it-yourself assembly - simple and reliable

To assemble the boards into one structure, it is necessary to use furniture dowels, which will serve as connecting materials. If you are making a standard door with a height of 1.6 meters, then it will be enough to make three holes, and for a more massive structure, you need to make four holes. It is important to remember that the holes should be equal to half the dowel, and also correspond to its diameter.

Simple door assembly diagram

Using a drill and a drill that matches the diameter of the dowel, make the desired number of holes. Next, you need to coat the dowel with wood glue, as well as the holes for it. Then insert into the prepared hole and connect the boards together. Connect all other boards in the same way.
You can make a door with your own hands both with dowels and without them. But the masters advise using dowels in the assembly. They will give the design greater reliability and aesthetic appearance. For the manufacture of dowels, you will need not wide rails, the thickness of which does not exceed 10 mm.

The dowels can crash into the door. But such a process will take you a lot of time and effort, since you will need to prepare the appropriate channels for the keys with a hammer and chisel. Therefore, the fastest and The best way install the dowel - nail it onto the assembled wooden shield.
It is worth noting that the future structure must be immediately insulated, especially if in winter time vegetables or twists will be stored there.

For thermal insulation, it is best to use orgalist or foam. Cut the thermal insulation material according to the dimensions of the product and attach it to the inside of the canvas.

Another heat-insulating material will be polyurethane foam. Use it to blow out all the cracks and gaps, and when it dries, just cut off its excess. The next step is to close the thermal insulation. Sheets of plywood are also cut to the size of the canvas and fastened with wood screws. Instead of plywood, you can use an additional layer of boards, then your door will be even stronger, better retain heat while ensuring good internal air circulation.

Your front door for the barn is almost ready, it remains only to prepare it for installation. Before installing wooden structure it needs to be sanded well with coarse-grained, and then fine-grained sandpaper. Thus, you will get an absolutely smooth, even wooden canvas without nicks and roughness. The next step is to cover the door. paintwork, which will serve as a protective barrier against adverse natural factors.

Door installation - steps

Pay attention to your door frame, maybe it needs minor repairs - repair or replace the threshold, install it in weak points anchor bolts. But if your box has a solid fixed design, then you can safely mount the door. If the door frame is not suitable for operation or is absent at all, then a new wooden structure will need to be made.
How to make a wooden box:

  • place the canvas on a completely flat surface;
  • lay out wooden bars around it, from which the box will be assembled;
  • cut off excess pieces with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
  • twist or knock down the box.

First you need to install the made box in the doorway. Then install a wooden sheet in it, but do not rush to mount it, as you need to correctly set the gaps. To do this, place a two millimeter sheet of paper between the door and the box. This is a mandatory procedure, since the canvas may not fit tightly into the box. After this procedure, you can install door hinges. They are right or left. Loops choose those that suit you. Loops need to be disconnected. Screw one with screws or screws to the door, and the second, which has a pin, to the box. Install the door on the door hinges, and then check the quality of the installation. Open and close the door. If there are no characteristic squeaks, rattles or obstacles in the form of friction, then the door is installed correctly and you can proceed with the installation door handles and valves. The door has been installed!
Now you know how to make a barn door with your own hands with a minimum set of materials and tools. And the correct calculations, compliance with all manufacturing standards will make your door a durable, solid structure.

A barn is a functional building on land plot used to store garden tools and various tools. As a rule, they are erected on private land plots used for permanent residence or rest. Increasingly, such buildings are capital structures that have windows and doors, are divided into compartments, and may even have heating. Today we’ll talk about how to properly make a wooden door to the barn with your own hands.

Undoubtedly, you can purchase a ready-made system or order it individually from manufacturers. However, if you have certain knowledge and material and tools are available, why not try to make it yourself. The process is simple, and such experience is always useful. Moreover, we will tell you about all the intricacies of making a homemade wooden door.

Before starting the process, you should make sure that you have available the right materials and tools:

  • plywood;
  • boards;
  • fasteners;
  • slats;
  • accessories;
  • wood glue;
  • Styrofoam;
  • nails;
  • hardboard;
  • furniture dowels;
  • drill;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • a hammer.

Preparatory activities

Regardless of whether you do it yourself simple doors from wood or more complex structures, we take measurements before starting work. You should carefully measure the doorway several times. Moreover, we determine the parameters not only of the canvas, but also of the box, and then the structure as a whole.

Now we turn to the preparation of the material. For a homemade wooden door, choose only high-quality boards. Using a jigsaw, we cut the boards into elements of the same thickness, taking into account the previously made measurements.

Remember that raw materials with defects will sooner or later play a cruel joke on you. Therefore, it is better to replace low-quality wood with smooth, straight, without chips and cracks.

Sequencing

For subsequent fastening in the boards with a drill, we make the same holes (several pieces). If you decide to make a simple wooden door with your own hands, then 4 holes are enough. In depth, they should be half the size of furniture dowels. The diameters must also match.

Next, we cover each hole and dowel with glue, insert the dowel into the hole so as to connect the boards. We do this with all the elements. In order to make a wooden door to the barn made with your own hands outwardly more beautiful, and the construction is durable, it is recommended to resort to the help of dowels. We make them from rails 1-2 cm wide. The easiest way is to attach the dowel to the main structure by nailing it over the door panel.

It is recommended to insulate the canvas if blanks and tools are stored in the barn in winter. As a heater for a simple wooden door, you can take polystyrene foam or hardboard. You can combine materials. From the selected raw material, we cut out one or more sheets of appropriate sizes and attach them with inside designs. Thermal insulation of a simple wooden door can also be made with mounting foam.

Now sew up the insulating layer. From plywood we cut out sheets of suitable size for the canvas, which are then attached on top of the insulation. For fastenings, we take wood screws. If you don't have plywood, or if you want a tighter construction, sew up the inside with boards.

Construction installation

Before installing a wooden door made of do-it-yourself boards, you should walk along the surface with sandpaper, leveling the top layer. After that, we cover the structure protective agent or varnish.

Before you install homemade wooden doors with your own hands, you need to look at the available door frame and, if necessary, repair it. If it is not suitable for further use, you need to make a new one. To do this, place the product on a flat surface (floor, ground), measure it, cut it out right size boards and knock them together.

Now we install the box in the opening. After its installation, you should try on the product by inserting a thick sheet of paper between the canvas and the box. The door must fit tightly into the box. Now let's install the hinges - they should be comfortable for you. They differ depending on whether the door is opened forward or backward, to the right or to the left. We fasten one part of the loop to the box, and the other to the canvas. Now you need to check if it opens / closes well and fits tightly into the box. If all is well, attach the handles.

We presented step by step how to make a wooden door with your own hands. As you can see, the process of creation and installation is not difficult if you follow the sequence of actions and use high-quality materials and tools.

Exterior doors for utility blocks are economy class metal doors. They have simple design, consisting of a frame, canvas, lock, loop system, door closer. For the manufacture of inexpensive doors, the manufacturer uses steel with a thickness of 1.2-1.5 mm. Stiffening ribs at the doors for utility blocks are often absent, but in some models they are included.

The lock for the doors of outbuildings usually corresponds to the second class of burglary resistance. This is enough to protect the shed from attempts to open it with the simplest household tool. Door hinges must be strong and secure.

At the door for outbuildings, as a rule, there is no insulation or sealing contours. Their absence reduces the cost of the input unit.

At the request of the buyer, the door leaf can be supplemented with cheap foam, which provides minimal heat and sound insulation properties of the product. If you need soundproof entrance doors, take a look at structures with an inner layer of basalt slab, mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

Doors are made from one or two sheets of cold rolled steel. The frame of the product is welded or solid-bent. The number of hinges varies from two to four, depending on the weight of the sash. For convenient operation, a convenient ergonomic handle is attached to the canvas.

Barn doors are painted with polymer or primer paint. They well protect the metal from corrosion, and also serve as decorative coating. Primer paint is cheaper, polymer paint is more expensive. Powder-coated doors have proven to be durable and practical entry units.

Street metal doors to order

Metal doors for the hozblok produce on automated equipment. In the manufacture of doors, welding machines, polymerization ovens, painting booths, spray guns, guillotines, grinders, hacksaws and much more are used. The work is carried out by a staff of qualified specialists. Finished doors are packed and delivered to the customer.

Door installation is carried out by experienced craftsmen. They will clean the opening, install the door frame, insert the sash, attaching it to the frame, and seal the gaps. The job usually takes about two to three hours.

When choosing a street metal door, consider the size of the opening. For outbuildings with large items the best option there will be installation of one-and-a-half or double doors. Metal doors with non-standard sizes can be ordered from STROYSTALINVEST.

As you may remember, I didn't have enough lumber to finish the barn, and the completion had to be delayed. And finally, after 2 seasons, I started the last stage of construction.
The boards I needed were left from the construction of the house, which I will tell about in another section of the site. It remains to buy two wooden doors with frames and the necessary hardware inventory: door hinges (left), handles, as well as fire protection for wood with maple and pine colors.

If you remember, I left the barn in such an unfinished form:

I started work, perhaps, from the most difficult moment - the assembly and installation of door frames. I bought solid wood doors, and as a box, each door was accompanied by a set in the form of three bars with cuts made in them under the door leaf. Therefore, I had to take measurements, cut these bars, taking into account the door gaps, and connect them into a box.

Installing the interior door.

I started by installing inner door leading to that part of the barn, which I prepared for a small workshop.

On the one hand, I fixed the assembled box to a vertical wall beam, on the other hand, I put vertical stand from the trimming of the forty board, since there are quite a lot of such two-meter trimmings in the manufacture of rafters.

Next, I had to tinker a bit with the installation of the hinges. To do this, first I set the lower gap between the door and the frame with the help of slipped corners - it is convenient to adjust the gap by increasing or decreasing it by hammering or pulling out the corner.

Then, having marked the locations of the upper and lower hinges, using a set of chisels, I selected excess wood (about 2-3 mm) so that during installation the hinge would sink a little into the box and door leaf.
Having attached the upper and lower hinges to the door with a couple of screws, I put pieces of wood of suitable size under the door leaf and, fitting the hinges to their places, finally fixed the door in the box.


Installing the outer door.

By the same principle, I installed an external door in the barn. Only in this case, as a second vertical support for the door frame, I used a piece of timber and a piece of a magpie board on top. I also fixed them with steel corners and sewn them diagonally on the side with self-tapping screws.

It was necessary to use a beam 100x100 because of the convenience of fastening the outer boards of the wall, as well as further door trim, under the vertical board of which we leave a gap in the thickness of the board used (about 25 mm).

Important! I remind you that I processed all the boards from the front (outer) side with an electric planer. At the same time, we save impregnation for wood, as well as increase the resistance of wood to adverse external effects of water.

For the convenience of working with a planer, I slightly modernized the goats for sawing firewood, namely: I screwed two planks to the “horns” of the goats with screws. Now it has become convenient to put a whole board on them and pass with a planer.


We sew up the walls with a board.

Well, then everything is as easy as shelling pears - we cut the board to size and sew it into place where it should be.
interior wall, between the woodcutter and the workshop, I sewed up the boards end-to-end, having previously processed them with a planer from all sides, paying special attention to the “ribs” to minimize gaps. Of course, they are still formed when the wood dries, well, for aesthetics ...))

So outer wall I had to tinker a little so that the boards did not start to "peck" up or down. I used a level for control, and also took measurements along the sheathed wall through the door for each board from the bottom.

Having finished with the sewing of the outer front wall, I left an area above the door not sewn up for the installation of a small visor there in the future. Below you will see what I mean.

Having finished painting, I began to manufacture and install door trims and a canopy over the door. Well, there is nothing special to explain, everything can be seen in the photo.

Today, not only the townspeople, but also the bulk of the owners of suburban property prefer metal structures as entrance doors. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and durable than wooden or plastic counterparts. But in fact, many solid-looking metal doors from the budget segment can be opened with a can opener, and scrap for them - universal key. Not everyone can afford to install a massive expensive structure, and high cost is not a guarantee of appropriate quality.

Therefore, craftsmen who have welding skills and the appropriate tool base prefer to make such doors on their own. In this situation, you can be sure of the strength of the frame, and decent parameters of sound absorption and thermal insulation, and appearance give in the general style. FORUMHOUSE users have also mastered the process and share the results. We study their experience and - we cook a metal door.

  • Experience is the best assistant
  • Helpful Hints newbies from experienced

Metal entrance doors - constructive

In a typical variant, a metal door consists of a frame, leaf, hinges and mounting elements(plates, lugs, pins). You can’t do without certain costs for materials and components, but a self-made door will cost much less than a purchased one. The exact list of consumables depends on the design, dimensions and purpose - if for a fairly simple frame with sheathing and a latch, then to enter the house the door must be multi-layered, with effective locking fittings and decorative cladding. In the second case, an approximate set of necessary things looks like this:

  • Metal corner (from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
  • Metal corner or profile pipe - for the frame, stiffeners;
  • Sheet of metal - for power sheathing (optimum thickness 2-3 mm).
  • thermal insulation material ( mineral wool, polystyrene, EPS or PSB);
  • Accessories - hinges (preferably with bearings), seal, peephole, lock / locks, handle, etc.;
  • Finishing - wood, forging, plastic (for the inside, various panels or laminate).

One of the most important stages is measurements, if you make a mistake, in the future it will become much more difficult to install the door, so you should follow certain recommendations:

  • All measurements are not from the finishing layer, but from the draft wall;
  • There should be a groove between the box and the opening, the standard one is 2 cm (for alignment and mounting seam);
  • The gap between the box and the leaf on the side of the hinges is 3 mm, on the side of the lock - 5 mm.

Having a working drawing with dimensions, or at least a sketch, will be a good help, not everyone’s imagination is developed enough to imagine final result. Fortunately, there are enough workable drawings on the Web, if drawing and drawing are also difficult.

Experience is the best assistant

But the best assistant is the experience that the participants of our portal generously share.

A profile pipe 20x40 mm, a metal sheet 3 mm thick went to the frame, mineral wool was used as an insulator, and MDF was finished.

Since it is necessary to cook the frame on a rigid flat surface, and the craftsman did not have a suitable hob, he used the beams exposed in the same plane. He also used clamps to keep the geometry of the product, some of them slightly “grab” the elements to the hob during the welding process. dronduletus made the door in several stages.

I cut the pipe to size, did not observe 45⁰ angles, since welding was carried out end-to-end, assembled the frame, beat off the diagonal, grabbed it, checked it, and fixed it with clamps. Welded the frame and welded stiffeners.

I cut the sheet for the sheathing, taking into account the overlap allowances around the entire perimeter (1.5 cm), fixed it on the frame with clamps. First, I welded it from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, with tacks (about 2 cm in increments of 15-20 cm). To make the sheet less led, cook diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. After that, I boiled the outer seams in the same way, cleaned them with a grinder, and boiled them along the stiffeners in the same order. One rib could have been dispensed with, but the sheet turned out to be bent. Next, I welded a “pocket” under the lock - cut a groove at the end, scalded the profile around the perimeter.

I cooked the box from a corner of 40x40 mm, used a channel for the threshold, 100x50mm, when cutting the segments, I added gaps not only for the hinges and the lock, but also up and down (4 mm each). As a protection against those who like to profit from someone else's good, I welded additional plates / plugs over the place where the crossbar will enter the full width (on both sides). I welded metal strips for attaching the box to the wall (two on top and three on the sides). It protected itself not only from knocking out the bolt, but also from removing the door from its hinges.

dronduletus

I welded pieces of a corner 8 cm wide inside the door, onto the back side of the frame, lifting it 8 mm from it - these are anti-removable crabs.

The canopies were welded in a horizontal position - putting the canvas in a box and placing a 2 mm thick steel plate between the canopy and the canvas, in order to stick the seal afterward and avoid friction. The canopies were welded at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, after checking the level and fixing it with clamps.

Since the walls are old and leave much to be desired, I abandoned the usual anchors, and used the pins only to fix the threshold (channel). The box was fixed on studs, 25 cm long (diameter 12 mm) and chemical anchors, after mounting the box, I hung the door and drilled holes for the crossbar. I put a heater in the cavity of the door, sewed everything MDF panels, painted.

Another member of the portal did not take pictures of the process, but his observations will be useful to everyone who is going to make a door.

outsider FORUMHOUSE Member

I also welded the doors, I didn’t take a photo in the process, but I’ll tell you the subtleties. I did it with my father-in-law, they welded a bunch of these doors as a coven at the factory.

Do-it-yourself metal door, life hacks and conclusions:

  • Iron for sheathing is better to take hot-rolled, cold-rolled is tight with geometry and right angles;
  • To weld the hinge plate to the box with a clamp, you need to hold it slightly and immediately release it. When the seam cools, the plate will bend with the required clearance. All loops are scalded after fixing;

  • If you make a special fixture (as in the figure), pressing the sheet to the corner during welding will avoid "bubbles";

  • So that during the operation of the door the canvas does not touch the frame, the hinges are welded so that the axis of the hinge falls on the edge of the sheet;

Intermediate draft result in the photo.

Master81 welded two metal doors - double and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and, looking at his creation, it is clear that he is "on a short foot" with metal.

The box was cooked from a corner five millimeters thick, six is ​​possible, but four is undesirable, the frame is made of profile pipe 40x20 mm. Difficulties in the manufacture of the structure did not cause.

Master81 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner with a grinder evenly, first assembled the box, then the frame under the door.

Another one of our craftsmen, a FORUMHOUSE participant from Moscow with the nickname oss, has already made the sixth metal door, if you count Garage Doors. The canvas is three millimeters thick, the frame is made of a profile pipe 50x40x3 mm, like the majority, but he approached the issue of security thoroughly. Armored plate, inner plate, lever lock with four crossbars, protective shutter in the well. These improvements have increased the cost of the product, but peace of mind is more expensive. No photo oss compensates with a streamlined build process and helpful tips.

oss Member FORUMHOUSE

Prior to this, the doors were made using various methods, including first strapping, and then tacking and frame assembly. The sequence chosen this time seems more optimistic.

The optimized version looks like this:

  • I started with the front vertical profile, made a frame, fixed the lock in the frame, checked how it works;
  • I made a rear vertical profile, immediately welded the protivosemniks (behind the hinges);
  • I assembled the entire frame from profiles for tacks;
  • I cut the skin along the frame (with an overlap of 20 mm);
  • “Baited” the sheet, scalded it with tacks in increments of 150 mm;
  • In the racks of the box (strapping), I cut out grooves for crossbars and protivosemnik;
  • Welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
  • Welded the loops.

O ss advises to insert one combined door lock instead of two different types.

Conclusion

In a topic on the forum dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade products would be tangible, and the savings would not be so significant that the game was worth the candle. However, for skillful hands, the manufacturing process is quite feasible, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not guess what is inside the purchased structure, is an important factor. Therefore, while some talk about expediency, others do and share real experience in order to make it easier for beginners.

How to save on entrance wooden doors, you can learn from the article - also on our portal. In the video - an overview of popular novelties of doors from the famous exhibition.