Baths

How to calculate heating in a wooden house. How to calculate the heating in the house correctly

The heating system of private houses can be compared to the human circulatory system, where the boiler is the heart, and the arteries and blood vessels are pipelines. Correctly made calculation of the heating system of a private house is a guarantee of high-quality heating, coziness and comfort in the premises, which favorably affect the life of any person.

Once again, we draw your attention to the correct calculation of heating a private house. This process must take place responsibly, because if mistakes are made, the functionality and quality of the heating will depend on them. In addition, the capital costs for operation and installation largely depend on the parameters obtained in the calculations.

As a heat carrier, in most cases, for private houses, ordinary water is chosen, and the systems themselves can be either open or closed. The durability and quality of heating operation depend on the correct calculations and selection of equipment. We will cover most of the required parameters in this article.

Boiler type and its role in heating calculation

It is difficult to imagine the correct calculation of the heating system for a private house without choosing the type of heat source. This issue needs to be decided based on what energy source is available in the installation region and which one is the best choice for the price.

Boilers operating on electricity, diesel, coal and natural gas. The latter option is the most preferable from a financial point of view, but, unfortunately, it is not always possible due to the inability to connect to a gas pipe.

Electric boilers. Such equipment is not particularly popular in the vastness of our country, because electrical energy costs a lot. In addition, for the high-quality operation of an electric boiler, it is necessary to equip a stable and reliable power supply system;

Solid fuel sources of heat. Our domestic market is rich in devices with automatic and manual loading of combustible materials. Automatic loading units are more expensive because their battery life is much longer and they are more practical to operate;
Gas boilers. These devices are distinguished by high efficiency, a high degree of automation of work, as well as safety. This option is a priority if the house is connected to gas distribution networks. Such equipment has small dimensions with high performance.

It should be noted that the price of gas is only growing every year, so it is worth thinking about automation and energy saving systems. But, despite the high price of fuel, these boilers are most in demand;

Liquid fuel units. Such equipment operates on waste oil or diesel fuel, has high rate performance, practicality and availability of the fuel itself. These heat sources can be installed in country houses or cottages, but it must be remembered that they will require the additional construction of a fuel tank.

Advice. If you have any controversial points or problems when calculating with your own hands, we advise you to seek help from professionals. So you save your time for a small fee.

Some nuances about heat sources

If your building does not have access to gas, then you have only three options:

Liquid fuel boiler;
Heat source on coal;
Electric generator.

The first two are preferred. The liquid fuel heat source has one big advantage. It can change burners to gas burners and run on natural gas. The choice of burners is quite large, and you can choose the one you need for any model of the boiler.

One big drawback with solid fuel boilers is the lack of quality mechanisms for the implementation of automation. Therefore, you need to be prepared for the fact that every 5-6 hours you will have to load fuel into the furnace. There are mechanisms that independently load fuel into the furnace from the bunker. In this case, human intervention is not required for more than a day, but in the future you will have to replenish the stock of the bunker yourself.

On the market you can find solid fuel boilers, which can be equipped with heating elements, that is, make them electric. Such equipment is more preferable due to the ability to work on a reserve type of fuel.

Electric boilers have both advantages and disadvantages, you can read more about such equipment in a specialized article on our website.

Calculation of characteristics

After choosing a heat generator, you can begin to calculate its power and system characteristics.

After the type of heat source is selected, you can proceed to the selection of its power and general characteristics heating. It should be noted that it is performed according to a very simple technique (formula).

To perform preliminary calculations, it will be sufficient to multiply the area of the room by the climatic power. The result obtained during the multiplication is divided by 10.

This is the most primitive formula, with which you can make fairly accurate calculations in the presence of a small number of known parameters.

Room area. At first glance, it may seem that this parameter is the most elementary for calculations, but this is not entirely true. Usually, the area of \u200b\u200ball rooms in which the construction of heating is meant is selected. This can be a big mistake, because all rooms in the house that have at least one wall facing the street will be heated.

In most cases, a thermal calculation of the heating system is made, taking into account only rooms with outer walls. A small power reserve of the heat source and other elements is taken, which will provide the house with heat even in the most severe winter;

climate power. When calculating the heating system, it is impossible to do without this parameter. The parameter is taken based on the regions in which the house is located. For example, for the central regions, this coefficient is 1.3-1.6 kW, for the southern regions - 0.8-0.95 kW, and for the northern regions even more - 1.6-2.2 kW.

An example of calculating the power of a heat generator for a house in the central part of Russia with an area of one hundred and thirty square meters:

Nk=130*1.2/10=15.6 (16) kW

Advice. For installation, you need to choose boilers with a margin of power. Experts explain this by the possibility of increasing the area and the number of consumers, as well as the quality of heat supply in severe winters.

How to correctly calculate the number of battery sections

The heating calculation includes the mandatory calculation of the number of battery sections. This can be done thanks to the existence of a simple formula: the area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms in which radiators will be installed must be multiplied by one hundred and divided by the power rating of one radiator.

Room area. Basically, all heaters are calculated for heating only one room, and, therefore, the total building area is not required. There may be an exception when another room without heating is located next to the room that will be heated;
number 100, which appears in the formula for counting the number of battery sections for a heating system, is not taken “from the head”. In accordance with the requirements of SNiP, about one hundred watts of power is required per square meter of a living room. Such a load is sufficient to create the required temperature;
If speak about power of one section of the heating battery, then it is purely individual and depends only on the materials of the radiators. If the parameters of the heating radiator are unknown, and it is impossible to know them, then you can take it equal to 200 W - since this figure corresponds to the average power of one section of a modern heater.

Having received all these data, you can proceed to the calculation yourself heating batteries. If we take as a basis a room with dimensions of about thirty square meters, and with a power of one section of one hundred and eighty watts, then the number of battery sections can be determined as follows:

n=30*100|180=16.7=17

Advice. As with the selection of a heat source, it is necessary to choose the number of sections with a small margin, such a step allows you to provide a small margin in power.

It cannot be said that for rooms that are located in the corner or ends of buildings, the result that we get must be multiplied by a factor of 1.2. This allows you to get optimal values and get the exact number of sections for heating appliances.

Materials for radiators: many models

The price, design and operating features of any heating system are highly dependent on the materials from which the batteries are made. We would recommend to refrain from steel radiators immediately. Although they are affordable, they have low power. It is less than a hundred watts.

Heating devices made of cast iron are more reliable, as well as beautiful view(you can see for yourself thanks to the photos and videos in our website gallery). But, despite the advantages, their power is not much more than that of steel - about 120 watts. But even such indicators are not critical, provided that heat loss not excessive.

Conclusion

If we talk about high-quality and efficient heating, which can provide uninterrupted heat to any private house or shopping center, then it is better not to save money when buying radiators. Get anodized or even better vacuum batteries.

Anodized instruments are excellently protected against corrosion, so they have long term operation - at least thirty years. The instruction of such equipment guarantees a heat transfer capacity of the element of at least 220 watts.

Vacuum heating radiators are the last word in heat engineering! They are the most economical of all types of existing batteries. They are universal in terms of choosing a place for installation and can be mounted both in a residential area and in a commercial one.

Batteries made of non-ferrous metal are also considered high-quality and economical. There is a large selection of aluminum and copper devices on the market of various capacities and sizes. To create a certain design, vertical batteries are made that can fit well into limited volumes.

You have already learned how to calculate heating in a private house thanks to this article and made sure that there is nothing complicated in the process of these calculations. All examples in this article require a minimum number of parameters and allow you to make calculations quickly and accurately.

Putting into practice the figures obtained during the course, it is possible to build a good and functional heating system, both for public buildings (supermarkets, educational institutions) and for residential buildings (apartments, private houses, cottages).

Now about what is meant when it comes to calculating heating? There are many examples of such systems. Moreover, the differences can lie both in the use of one or another source of energy (electricity or fuel) for conversion into heat, and in the technology for supplying this generated heat to the premises. But there is also an absolutely identical, unifying side of the issue.

We are talking about key indicators - how much of this thermal energy is needed for each of the premises of the house in order to guarantee comfortable conditions in it. And, accordingly, what is the total amount of heat that needs to be generated for the entire housing as a whole.

That is, somewhat paraphrasing what was introduced in the heading “how to calculate heating in a private house”, then we will consider the question “how to determine thermal power for each of the rooms and in general for the whole house.

Three methods will be proposed in the publication. The first is the simplest, but also, of course, the least accurate. The second is the most accurate, but at the same time the most difficult for an unprepared person. And, finally, the third - which combines the advantages and eliminates the shortcomings of the first two. It is sufficiently accurate, taking into account the specifics of the location of the house and the premises in it, and at the same time - quite understandable even for a beginner. Moreover, we will accompany this method with a convenient online calculator.

It is assumed that for full-fledged heating of housing with a ceiling height of 2.5–3.0 meters and sufficiently high-quality thermal insulation of all main structures, it is necessary to spend 100 watts of thermal energy for each one square meter area of the room.

100 W per 1 m² - many people think so, although the resulting result is sometimes very far from the true

As a "derivative" of this approach, one can consider the "norm" and based on the volume of the room.

So, in a private house with high-quality insulation and modern windows with double-glazed windows, their ratio can be calculated as 34 W of thermal energy per cubic meter of volume.

AT panel house urban mass building of heat will require more - 41 watts per cubic meter.

Simple and fast! We consider by area (or volume) the required amount of heat for each room. And then summing all the results will give us the total heat output that is required to heat the house. You can add about 20 or 25% of the operating margin to it - and the answer is ready!

Indeed, it's easy. But how accurate is it?

Even to a person who is very far from construction and heat engineering, the too high “universality” of such a method may seem suspicious. Agree, it is one thing to carry out the calculation of the heating system for a house, say, in Khanty-Mansiysk, and another thing for the same area, but in the Kuban. Not a word is said about the quantity and quality of windows, but this is one of the main "highways" of heat leakage from the premises. The state of the insulation system, the type of floors, what the room is adjacent to horizontally and vertically are not taken into account. And much more …

As a result of such calculations, two extremes may well turn out:

One very unpleasant thing is when the heating system simply does not cope with its duties.
The other is the excess capacity of the purchased and installed equipment, which almost always remains unclaimed. And this is extra costs for more expensive models powerful boilers, large quantity radiators. And it’s not particularly useful for equipment when it constantly works with a very large “underload”.

In a word, it is difficult to call such an approach rational. And a prudent owner will still prefer more accurate calculations.

concept heating calculation is very abstract, because in order to calculate the heating of a house, it is necessary to perform calculations of heat losses, the power of the heating system, choose a comfortable temperature regime, perform a hydraulic calculation of the pipeline, etc. So let's look at all aspects of calculating heating separately.

To calculate home heating systems, you can use the calculator for calculating heating, heat loss at home.

Stage 1. Heat loss at home, calculation of heat loss.

After performing the calculation, the heat loss of each room must be divided by the volume of the room in m 2, as a result of which we get specific heat loss in W/sq.m. As a rule, heat losses can vary from 50 to 150 W/sq.m. In the case when the results you get will be very different from those given, then, probably, a mistake was made somewhere. It is also worth considering that the heat loss of rooms top floor will be higher than that of the first floor, the smallest heat loss will be in the rooms of the middle floors.

Stage 2. Temperature regime.

For your calculations, you can safely take the temperature mode 75/65/20, this mode fully complies with European heating standards EN 442. You will not be mistaken if you choose this particular temperature mode, since almost all foreign heating boilers are configured for it.

Stage 3. Selecting the power of heating radiators.

After you have completed the calculations of heat loss at home and have chosen the temperature regime, you need to choose the right radiators for heating. We already wrote about this in the article: Heating radiators, types and types of heating radiators, you can also use the table of characteristics of heating radiators, and then select the required power.

Stage 4. Calculation of sections of heating radiators.

An important step is the calculation of sections of heating radiators, in the article Calculation of sections of heating radiators, an example of calculating the number of sections of heating radiators by volume of the room is given.

Stage 5. Hydraulic calculation of the pipeline

The main task of the next stage is to determine the diameter of the pipes and the characteristics of the circulation pump. Hydraulic calculation of the pipeline will allow you to determine the parameters of pressure pipelines, such as the water flow (capacity) of the pipeline, the length of the pipeline section, or its internal diameter, as well as the pressure drop in the pipeline section.

You should also study the material on: How to calculate the pipeline.

If you go a little deeper, you can study the material: Calculation of hydraulic systems.

Stage 6. Choosing a heating boiler

Information on how to choose the right heating boiler is given in the article: Heating boilers, types and types of boilers.

Stage 7. Selection of pipes for heating.

Special pipes are used for home heating, so you should familiarize yourself with what pipes are needed for home heating: Types and types of pipes for heating. For private residences, you can use:

The heating system of a modern private house includes: a pipeline and radiators, a boiler and all kinds of devices to improve its operation, etc. All of them must transport heat from the boiler to the premises. To provide correct operation of this system, it is necessary to professionally calculate and install all heating devices, use them correctly and carry out maintenance on time. We will talk about how to calculate the heating system in a private house below.

Single-circuit heating system

Boilers are double-circuit and single-circuit, with different capacities, automated and simple configuration. In the figures below you can see a diagram of a simple heating system with a single-circuit boiler. Such heating systems with a simple fixture enough for a small design.
The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a boiler is its power. Power is taken as the basis of any calculations.

How to calculate boiler power

For example, let's calculate which boiler is suitable for a private wooden house with an area of 78.5 m 2.

The design of a one-story private house includes: 3 rooms, a corridor + an entrance hall, a kitchen, a toilet and a bath. We calculate the volume of the whole house, for this we need data on the area of \u200b\u200beach room and the height of the ceilings. The area of the rooms is: 2 rooms - 10 m 2 each, ceiling height 2.8 m, 3rd room 20 m 2, entrance hall 8m 2, corridor 8m 2, kitchen 15.5 m 2, bathroom 4m 2, toilet 3 m 2. By multiplying the height and area, we get the volume: 1.2 - 28 and 28 m 3, 3 - 56 m 3, entrance hall and corridor 22.4 m 3 each, kitchen 43.4 m 3, bathroom 11.2 m 3, toilet 8 .4 m 3.

Boiler power calculation

The next step is to calculate the total volume of a private house: 28 + 28 + 56 + 22.4 + 22.4 + 43.4 + 11.2 + 8.4 = 220 m 3. The volume must be calculated for all rooms, regardless of whether radiators are installed there or not, in our case there are none in the corridor and hallway. This is done because when heating a house, such rooms are still warmed up, but passively, due to the natural circulation of air and its heat exchange. Therefore, if you do not take into account unheated living quarters, the calculation will not be correct.

To select the boiler power, you need to rely on the amount of energy needed per 1 m 3 based on regional data:

European part of Russia - 40 W / m 3
Northern part of Russia - 45 W / m 3
Southern part of Russia - 25 W / m 3

Suppose that for the house in question, the power is 40 W / m 3. It turns out the required power is equal to 40x220 = 8800 watts. A factor of 1.2 is added to this figure, equal to 20% of the reserve capacity. Additional power is needed so as not to strain the boiler, and it worked quietly. We translate the received cotton wool into kilowatts and get 10.6 kW. This means for the wooden square one-story house with an area of 78.5 m 2, a standard boiler with a capacity of 12-14 kW is suitable.

Having calculated the power of the boiler, you need to determine what kind of hood it needs.

How to choose a pipe diameter

Choosing the right pipe diameter for the boiler of a private house is an important step in designing a heating system. For some reason, it is believed that the larger the diameter of the chimney pipe, the better. But this is an erroneous opinion.

To optimize the operation of the boiler, especially for electronic devices, it is necessary to select a pipe of the desired diameter. The indicators needed for this are:

Type of heating source. The heating center in a private wooden lady can be either a boiler or a stove. For boilers, it is important to know the volume of the combustion chamber, the quadrature of the volume of the ash pan is near the stove. For homemade gas or diesel boilers, you also need to know these indicators.
The length and design of the intended pipe. The optimal height of the structure is 4-5 m without curvature and narrowing. Otherwise, unnecessary vortex zones are formed in the structure, which reduce thrust.
The shape of the future chimney. The cylinder-shaped structures best option. Therefore, it is easiest to use a ready-made sandwich structure. It is difficult to lay out such a round pipe from a brick, and a square one has large losses. There is a sandwich pipe, for example, with a diameter of 100 mm from 1000 rubles / m rm.

Knowing all these factors and indicators, it is possible to calculate the pipe section for a particular boiler. The calculation will be approximate, since for an exact one, complex calculations and indicators are needed. The size of the combustion chamber of the boiler is taken as the basis, it is on it that the volume of outgoing gases depends. The following formula is used for calculation: F = (K ∙ Q) / (4.19 ∙ √ˉ N). K is a conditional coefficient equal to 0.02-0.03, Q is the performance of the gas boiler, which is indicated in the technical data sheet of the equipment, H is the height of the future chimney.

The resulting result must be rounded and adjusted to building codes which can be found on the web (" Specifications on the conversion of furnaces to gas). For a brick pipe, the calculation is done with the condition of the pipe section 1/2 brick by 1/2.

For the correct distribution of heat throughout the house, it is necessary to calculate the number of radiators.

Calculation of radiators

The calculation of radiators will be directly related to their power. Radiators are:

aluminum,
bimetallic,
cast iron, etc.

Bimetallic radiators have a standard power of one section of 100-180 W, aluminum - 180 - 205 W, cast iron - 120-160 W. You need to count the sections only after taking into account the power, so when purchasing, ask the seller what material the radiators are made of.

Another important indicator when choosing heaters is the temperature difference between the incoming from the boiler and the return (DT). The standard figure recorded in the technical data sheet of the radiator is 90 - incoming, 70 - return.

Based on my own experience, I can say that the boiler rarely operates at full capacity, which means that there will be no supply temperature of 90 0 C. And in automatic boilers, in general, there is a limiter of 80 0 C, so passport indicators will not work. So the average real DT is 70 - input, 55 - output. This means that the radiator power will be less than 120 watts, for aluminum 150 watts. From this calculation it is easy to make calculations.

For example, let's calculate the same wooden cottage with an area of 78.5 m 2. Will be used aluminum radiators 0.6 m high. Now let's calculate the number of sections per room:

A room of 28 m 3, we multiply this figure by 40 W (from the consumption table by region) and by 1.2 \u003d 1344 W. This figure must be rounded up to a whole number, 1500. Now let's divide by the power of one section: 1500:150=10 sections. For this room, you can use one radiator with 6 sections and the second with 4.

Similarly, all rooms of the house are calculated.

The next step is to select the pipes connecting the radiators into a single system.

How to choose the right pipes for radiators

Heated water from the gas boiler is transported to the radiators through a pipe system, so their quality will envy how great the heat loss will be. There are three main types of pipes on the market:

Plastic.
Metal.
Copper.

Metal pipes, which were previously used in the heating system of any private house, have a number of disadvantages:

big weight,
installation requires the use of additional equipment,
accumulating static electricity
the appearance of natural rust, and this can damage the boiler.

But on the other hand, the price of such pipes is not high, from 350 running meters.

Another thing copper pipes. They have a number of advantages:

Withstand temperatures up to 200 0 С
Withstand pressure up to 200 atmospheres.

But a greater number of minuses make these pipes unclaimed:

Difficult to install (needs silver solder, needs professional equipment and knowledge).
Copper pipes can only be mounted on special fasteners.
High price due to the high cost of the material, from 1500 p / m.
High installation cost from 600 p/m.

plastic pipes

Plastic pipes are considered one of the most sought after among homeowners. A number of advantages contribute to this:

Corrosion inside the system is not formed, since the system is sealed, and the material does not allow air to pass through.
Increased strength, as the base is made of aluminum covered with plastic, and this material does not rot or collapse over time.
The design has aluminum reinforcement, so the expansion is minimal.
Low hydraulic resistance, good for natural circulation and pressurized systems.
Antistatic.
You do not need to have a skill during installation, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the installation technique on the Internet.
Low cost, from 32 rubles/m

When the pipes are selected and purchased, you can proceed with the installation of the heating system, you can do the work yourself or call specialists.

Installation subtleties

Installation of a heating system in a private wooden house takes place in several main stages:

Installation of radiators. Installation of radiators must be carried out according to the scheme. Traditionally, radiators are located under window openings, so the heat will not let cold air into the room. They do the installation with their own hands using a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a level. The main rule to be observed: all radiators of the system are located at the same distance from the floor and strictly according to the level. Otherwise, the water will be poorly circulated in the system.
Pipe installation. Before installation, you need to calculate the total length of the system, and fasteners and connecting (fittings). To work with your own hands, you need the following tools: scissors for plastic pipes, a special soldering iron, tape measure and pencil. High-quality pipes have special markings showing the direction and notches to facilitate installation.

Using a soldering iron, immediately after melting, solder the pipes in the connecting fixtures. It is forbidden to perform turns after this, otherwise the solder will turn out to be leaky and break, and with circulation under pressure it may fall apart. To prevent such errors, practice on the rest of the pipe. Pipes are attached to the wall in special semicircular mounts, which, in turn, are screwed to wooden wall small self-tapping screws.

Connecting the system to the boiler. It is better to entrust this part to specialists, since checking the system and its first launch can cause a number of difficulties for a beginner.

Additional devices in the heating system

Heating circulation pump

Additional accessories include, for example, a pump. In a heating system located on an area of less than 100 m 2, circulation will occur by a natural system, but a pump is needed for a larger area. If the boiler is imported and automatic, then the pump is already in the system, which means that an additional one is not needed.

On sale, you can easily find a pump of domestic or imported production, all of them are suitable for systems with natural circulation. There are pumps for the heating system from 1200 rubles. But good from 3500, it is less power-consuming and silent, while it has a small size. The pump is installed at the end natural system do-it-yourself circulation, specifically on the return before entering the boiler. So his contact with hot water will be minimal and will last a long time.

Another type of additional equipment is the use of an expansion tank. The capacity of the expansion tank has a different volume of water and is selected from these parameters. In automatic boilers expansion tank already standing, but its volume of water is insufficient for a system with liquid circulation over an area of more than 100 m 2. Why is it necessary to install an expansion tank in the heating system?

Schoolchildren in grade 8 understand that heated water expands. Inside the heating system, the temperature of the water changes all the time, drops in spring and autumn, and rises in winter, which means that its volume changes all the time. Excess water volume can be controlled using a special container, an expansion tank or, as the professionals say, an expandomat. It must be installed both with automatic and with natural water circulation in the system.

The use of an expansion tank is advisable in two cases:

If the heating system has a closed circuit.
The coolant has a certain level of capacity.

As volume increases, a closed chain of pipes will develop hydraulic pressure that can damage it. Scientists have calculated that with an increase in temperature by 10 0 C, the volume of water increases by 0.3%. This is a small indicator for a small volume of water, but there can be up to 1 ton in the system. Therefore, the installation of an expansion tank is necessary in any private house. You can install it yourself, but such a design costs from 1200 rubles.

Having considered the main components of the heating system and the stages of installation, it is clear that you can do the work yourself. And the low cost of components and the correct calculation make modern system heating economical and functional.

Of all known this moment options for heating your own home, the most common type is an individual water heating system. Oil radiators, fireplaces, stoves, fan heaters and infrared heaters are often used as auxiliary appliances.

The heating system of a private house consists of heating devices, pipelines and shut-off and control mechanisms, all of which serves to transport heat from the heat generator to the end points of space heating. It is important to understand that the reliability, durability and efficiency of an individual heating system depends on its correct calculation and installation, as well as on the quality of the materials used in this system and its proper operation.

Calculation of the heating system

Let us consider in detail a simplified version of the calculation of a water heating system, in which we will use standard and publicly available components. The figure schematically shows an individual heating system of a private house based on a single-circuit boiler. First of all, we need to decide on its power, since it is the basis of all calculations in the future. Let's carry out this procedure according to the scheme described below.

Total area of the premises: S = 78.5; total volume: V = 220

We have a one-story house with three rooms, an entrance hall, a corridor, a kitchen, a bathroom and a toilet. Knowing the area of each individual room and the height of the rooms, it is necessary to make elementary calculations in order to calculate the volume of the whole house:

room 1: 10 m 2 2.8 m = 28 m 3
room 2: 10 m 2 2.8 m = 28 m 3
room 3: 20 m 2 2.8 m = 56 m 3
entrance hall: 8 m 2 2.8 m = 22.4 m 3
corridor: 8 m 2 2.8 m = 22.4 m 3
kitchen: 15.5 m 2 2.8 m = 43.4 m 3
bathroom: 4 m 2 2.8 m = 11.2 m 3
toilet: 3 m 2 2.8 m = 8.4 m 3

Thus, we calculated the volume of all individual rooms, thanks to which we can now calculate the total volume of the house, it is equal to 220 cubic meters. Notice that we also calculated the volume of the corridor, but in fact, not a single heating device is indicated there, what is this for? The fact is that the corridor will also be heated, but in a passive way, due to the circulation of heat, so we need to add it to the general list of heating in order for the calculation to be correct and give the desired result.

We will carry out the next stage of calculating the power of the boiler, based on the required amount of energy per cubic meter. Each region has its own indicator - in our calculations we use 40 W per cubic meter, based on recommendations for the regions of the European part of the CIS:

40 W 220 m 3 = 8800 W

The resulting figure must be raised to a factor of 1.2, which will give us a 20% power reserve so that the boiler does not constantly work at full capacity. Thus, we understand that we need a boiler that is capable of generating 10.6 kW (standard single-circuit boilers are produced with a capacity of 12-14 kW).

Calculation of radiators

In our case, we will use standard aluminum radiators with a height of 0.6 m. The power of each fin of such a radiator at a temperature of 70 ° C is 150 W. Next, we calculate the power of each radiator and the number of conditional fins:

room 1: 28 m 3 40 W 1.2 = 1344 W. We round up to 1500 and get 10 conditional edges, but since we have two radiators, both under the windows, we will take one with 6 edges, the second with 4.
room 2: 28 m 3 40 W 1.2 = 1344 W. We round up to 1500 and get one radiator with 10 ribs.
room 3: 56 m 3 40 W 1.2 \u003d 2688 W We round up to 2700 and get three radiators: 1st and 2nd 5 ribs each, 3rd (side) - 8 ribs.
entrance hall: 22.4 m 3 40 W 1.2 = 1075.2 W. We round up to 1200 and get two radiators with 4 ribs.
bathroom: 11.2 m 3 45 W 1.2 \u003d 600 W. Here the temperature should be a little higher, it turns out 1 radiator with 4 fins.
toilet: 8.4 m 3 40 W 1.2 \u003d 403.2 W. We round up to 450 and get three edges.
kitchen: 43.4 m 3 40 W 1.2 = 2083.2 W. We round up to 2100 and get two radiators with 7 edges.

AT end result we see that we need 12 radiators with a total capacity:

900 + 600 + 1500 + 750 + 750 + 1200 + 600 + 600 + 600 + 450 + 1050 + 1050 = 10.05 kW

Based on the latest calculations, it is clear that our individual heating system can easily cope with the load placed on it.

Pipe selection

Piping for the system individual heating is a medium for transporting thermal energy (in particular, heated water). In the domestic market, pipes for mounting systems are presented in three main types:

metal
copper
plastic

Metal pipes have a number of significant disadvantages. In addition to being heavy and requiring special installation equipment and experience, they are also susceptible to corrosion and can accumulate static electricity. A good option- copper pipes, they are able to withstand temperatures up to 200 degrees and a pressure of about 200 atmospheres. But copper pipes are specific in installation (requires special equipment, silver solder and extensive experience), in addition, their cost is very high. The most popular option are plastic pipes. And that's why:

they have an aluminum base, which is covered with plastic on both sides, due to which they have great strength;
they absolutely do not allow oxygen to pass through, which makes it possible to nullify the process of corrosion formation on the inner walls;
due to aluminum reinforcement, they have a very low coefficient of linear expansion;
plastic pipes are antistatic;
have low hydraulic resistance;
no special skills required for installation.

System installation

First of all, we need to install sectional radiators. They must be placed strictly under the windows, warm air from the radiator will prevent the penetration of cold air from the window. For the installation of sectional radiators, you will not need any special equipment, only a perforator and a building level. It is necessary to strictly adhere to one rule: all radiators in the house must be mounted strictly at the same horizontal level, the overall circulation of water in the system depends on this parameter. Also observe the vertical arrangement of the radiator fins.

After installing the radiators, you can start laying pipes. It is necessary to measure the total length of the pipes in advance, as well as count the number of various fittings (elbows, tees, plugs, etc.). To install plastic pipes, you need only three tools - a tape measure, pipe scissors and a soldering iron. Most of these pipes and fittings have laser perforation in the form of notches and guide lines, which makes it possible to carry out installation correctly and evenly on site. When working with a soldering iron, you should follow only one rule - after you have melted and joined the ends of the products, in no case do not scroll them if you did not manage to solder evenly the first time, otherwise it is possible to leak in this place. It is better to practice in advance on pieces that will go to waste.

Additional devices

According to statistics, a system with passive water circulation will function properly if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room does not exceed 100-120 m 2. Otherwise, special pumps must be used. Of course, there are a number of boilers that already have pump systems built in and they themselves circulate water through the pipes, if yours does not have one, then you should purchase it separately.

In the domestic market, their choice is very large, in addition, they meet all the necessary requirements - they consume little electricity, are silent and small in size. Mount circulation pumps at the ends of the heating branches. Thus, the pump will last longer, as it will not be under the direct influence of hot water.

Example single pipe system heating with forced circulation: 1 - boiler; 2 - security group; 3 - heating radiators; 4 - needle valve; 5 - expansion tank; 6 - drain; 7 - plumbing; 8 - coarse water filter; nine - circulation pump; 10 - ball valves

From all of the above, it becomes clear that two or three people can easily handle the installation of such a system, this does not require special professional skills, the main thing is to be able to use elementary construction tools. In our article, we examined an individual heating system assembled using standard components, their price and general availability will allow almost everyone to install a similar heating system at home.