Drainage

Exterior finish on foam or how not to waste time in vain. Finishing the facade of the house after insulation with foam plastic How to sheathe the house with polystyrene foam from the outside

Building a house has always been an expensive project and if there is an opportunity to save on something, then why not do it. To reduce the cost of thermal insulation, the house is increasingly being sheathed with foam.

This material is not inferior in its characteristics to expensive heaters, it is easy to use, and you can sheathe the walls yourself. What are the other advantages of foam plastic and how to work with it correctly?

Material advantages

Despite the cheapness, the foam is of high quality and safe material. Information about toxicity is just a myth. The main property due to which it is actively used in the cladding of houses is its high thermal insulation qualities.

A foam sheet, having a thickness of 10 cm, saves the dwelling from heat loss in the same way as a concrete wall, 60 cm thick. And 5 cm thick, like brickwork in 2 layers.

Also, the material has many more advantages:

High soundproofing properties.
Light weight, which reduces the load on the foundation and walls.
The material is resistant to water and does not deform in high humidity.
Does not ignite.
Durable and does not lose its properties for about 50 years.
prevalence and availability. You can buy polystyrene at any hardware store.

But all these advantages apply only to high-quality material and with proper installation. How to sheathe a house with foam?

What do you need to work

Before proceeding with the installation of foam, the necessary materials and tools are purchased and prepared.

Materials:

Styrofoam;
Adhesive composition suitable for the material;
Mounting foam;
dowels;
Primer and plaster;
Construction mesh for reinforcement;
Starting bar.

Instruments:

Drill (well, if there is a mixer nozzle);
Notched trowel for applying adhesive;
Ordinary spatulas;
Construction knife;
Container for diluting glue;
Roulette;
Level;
Drill;
Graters with teeth of various sizes.

It is important to purchase the “correct” foam for wall insulation. To do this, its density should be about 25 kg per cubic meter. The thickness of the plates should be at least 8 cm, 10 is most often used.

Sometimes the building is sheathed with foam plastic, 5 cm thick in 2 layers, making the seams shift between themselves for greater heat savings.

You can fix the foam with glue or dowels. But as practice shows, both are better. Glued sheets in several places are fixed with nails for greater strength.

Optionally, a starting profile-bar is installed at the bottom of the wall, which serves to secure the position of the sheets and prevents them from sliding during installation. It also prevents damage to the foam by rodents, so if there is a problem of visiting uninvited guests, then it is better to use it.

Surface preparation

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a house with polystyrene foam will be of high quality if the surface is properly prepared. Sheets should be as close as possible to it. To do this, bumps are removed from the walls, they are cleaned of debris. The holes are filled with plaster.

There are 2 ways to insulate a house:

inner lining;
External.

Which method to choose depends on whether the building is new or old, as well as how the facades are finished. If they have a high-quality and durable lining, then it is more convenient to make insulation from the inside. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the area of \u200b\u200bthe room will become smaller. New buildings and those in which it is planned to change the facade decoration are sheathed from the outside.

If the firmware is done indoors, then the old wallpaper and peeling paint are removed. It is recommended to go through the walls with a primer, for better surface leveling and stronger adhesion of the sheets.

Outside, the walls are cleaned and, if possible, irregularities are repaired, the relief of the protrusions should not exceed 1.5 cm. To eliminate external defects, you can use the usual cement mortar, for this, cement and sand are mixed 1: 3, water is added. The solution is applied to the niches and leveled with a spatula.

wall cladding technique

How to sheathe a house with foam plastic so that it turns out quickly, accurately and reliably? In fact, the technology is quite simple and you only need to know the sequence of steps and take into account some of the nuances that help prevent problems and delamination of the material.

You also need to carefully cut the parts and take measurements so that the gaps between the plates are as small as possible. If you still get gaps of more than 1 cm, then they can easily be sealed with mounting foam. Small gaps are filled with a solution of adhesive composition.

Step by step instructions for wall cladding:

According to the instructions, the adhesive composition is diluted. To avoid the appearance of lumps, you can use a drill with a special nozzle - a blade. But if one is not available, then you can mix with a spatula. The solution needs to stand a little.
The adhesive is applied to the foam sheet and spread over the surface with a notched trowel. If the wall is even, then the composition can be applied directly to it.
Sheets are pressed against the wall. Sheathing always starts from the bottom up. The starting bar will prevent the foam sheets from slipping. The second row is made with a shift of the plates relative to the first. The foam is cut with a construction knife. Particular attention should be paid to the corners and the elimination of gaps in them. Otherwise, the thermal insulation properties will be reduced.
The joints of the plates are filled with glue, the excess is removed with a flat spatula. The wall is allowed to dry, and the glue will set. How long this takes depends on the composition, temperature and humidity of the air. Sometimes it can take up to 3 days.
Holes for dowels of the required depth are drilled with a puncher or drill. Definitely in the corners and in the center.
The dowels should sink into the foam sheets and not protrude. This will reduce the consumption of the leveling compound, which will be used for finishing. If the insulation is used under brick lining or sheathed with siding, then you can not be zealous. This completes the work, you only need to check for cracks and, if necessary, cover up.
If it is planned to apply plaster or other decorative coating, then a reinforcing layer is made. To do this, an adhesive composition is applied to the foam, and then a reinforcing mesh.
The surface is re-spackled. It is better to do this with a thick adhesive composition.
After everything dries, the wall is treated with graters and, if necessary, re-spackled.

Material advantages

Despite the low cost, polystyrene is a high-quality and safe material. Information about toxicity is just a myth. The main property due to which it is actively used in the cladding of houses is its high thermal insulation qualities.

A foam sheet, having a thickness of 10 cm, saves the dwelling from heat loss in the same way as a concrete wall, 60 cm thick. And 5 cm thick, like brickwork in 2 layers.

Also, the material has many more advantages:

High soundproofing properties.
Light weight, which reduces the load on the foundation and walls.
The material is resistant to water and does not deform in high humidity.
Does not ignite.
Durable and does not lose its properties for about 50 years.
prevalence and availability. You can buy polystyrene at any hardware store.

But all these advantages apply only to high-quality material and with proper installation. How to sheathe a house with foam?

What do you need to work

Before proceeding with the installation of foam, the necessary materials and tools are purchased and prepared.

Styrofoam;
Adhesive composition suitable for the material;
Mounting foam;
dowels;
Primer and plaster;
Construction mesh for reinforcement;
Starting bar.

Drill (well, if there is a mixer nozzle);
Notched trowel for applying adhesive;
Ordinary spatulas;
Construction knife;
Container for diluting glue;
Roulette;
Level;
Drill;
Graters with teeth of various sizes.

Sometimes the building is sheathed with foam plastic, 5 cm thick in 2 layers, making the seams shift between themselves for greater heat savings.

You can fix the foam with glue or dowels. But as practice shows, both are better. Glued sheets in several places are fixed with nails for greater strength.

Surface preparation

There are 2 ways to insulate a house:

Outside, the walls are cleaned and, if possible, irregularities are repaired, the relief of the protrusions should not exceed 1.5 cm. To eliminate external defects, you can use ordinary cement mortar, for this mix 1: 3 cement and sand, add water. The solution is applied to the niches and leveled with a spatula.

wall cladding technique

Step by step instructions for wall cladding:

According to the instructions, the adhesive composition is diluted. To avoid the appearance of lumps, you can use a drill with a special nozzle - a blade. But if one is not available, then you can mix with a spatula. The solution needs to stand a little.
The adhesive is applied to the foam sheet and spread over the surface with a notched trowel. If the wall is even, then the composition can be applied directly to it.
Sheets are pressed against the wall. Sheathing always starts from the bottom up. The starting bar will prevent the foam sheets from slipping. The second row is made with a shift of the plates relative to the first. The foam is cut with a construction knife. Particular attention should be paid to the corners and the elimination of gaps in them. Otherwise, the thermal insulation properties will be reduced.
The joints of the plates are filled with glue, the excess is removed with a flat spatula. The wall is allowed to dry, and the glue will set. How long this takes depends on the composition, temperature and humidity of the air. Sometimes it can take up to 3 days.
Holes for dowels of the required depth are drilled with a puncher or drill. Definitely in the corners and in the center.
The dowels should sink into the foam sheets and not protrude. This will reduce the consumption of the leveling compound, which will be used for finishing. If the insulation is used under brick lining or sheathed with siding, then you can not be zealous. This completes the work, you only need to check for cracks and, if necessary, cover up.
If it is planned to apply plaster or other decorative coating, then a reinforcing layer is made. To do this, an adhesive composition is applied to the foam, and then a reinforcing mesh.
The surface is re-spackled. It is better to do this with a thick adhesive composition.
After everything dries, the wall is treated with graters and, if necessary, re-spackled.

How to insulate a house with foam

Insulation of the house with polystyrene foam is one of the inexpensive and simple ways keeping warm. This method does not take very much time, but still, when installing the foam, some nuances must be taken into account. The quality of insulation and the durability of the foam may depend on the correct preparation of the surface, the choice of material and the installation.

Necessary materials

First of all, a material such as foam is purchased. Together with it are used:

Primer.
Tile adhesive.
Plaster.
Reinforced corners.
Fasteners (dowels).

For frame insulation floors and ceilings will additionally need metal or wooden profiles, as well as chipboard sheets.

Instruments

For the correct and high-quality fastening of the foam to the walls and ceiling, you need to get a drill. It is desirable to have drills of different sizes for it. The construction level will help to accurately and accurately perform all measurements. A small container is needed to knead the solution, and a spatula is required to apply it. A construction knife will be used to cut the foam.

Which is better: polystyrene or mineral wool

When choosing a heater, you should always carefully study the characteristics of a particular material. After all, its quality and durability depend on it.

Mineral wool is also great for keeping the heat in the house. With its help, you can insulate any building. It is produced not only in plates, but also in rolls and is quite convenient for installation. However, this material is more susceptible to moisture. The cost of such material also repels many buyers. Therefore, for high-quality and inexpensive insulation of the house, you can completely use foam.

The thickness of the foam for insulation

When choosing foam parameters, you should not dwell on low-quality material with low performance characteristics. For example, density polystyrene foam of 15 kg / m 3 is only suitable for insulating the internal walls of the building. And for sheathing a house outside, it is better to buy a more durable one with a density of 25 kg / m 3. But to strengthen the slopes of windows and doors, as well as the foundations of the building, it is better to use a density of 35 kg / m 3. Due to such a high rate, it is possible to use thinner sheets.

Thickness foam is selected according to the following principle: if the house needs to be well insulated and protected from strong winds, then it is better to buy material about 15 cm thick. But if the building is located in a warmer climate zone, then you can purchase the most common one, having a thickness of 7 cm, because this type will be cheaper.

But you can not overdo it when choosing the characteristics of the foam. After all, very thick sheets can lead to technological problems. In some cases, when it is necessary to bypass pipes, it is not possible to use thick sheets. Therefore, it would be more reasonable to purchase foam with a thickness of 5 cm with a density of 35 kg/m 3 than to use 10 cm with a density of 25 kg/m 3. These 2 types are comparable in terms of price and functional characteristics.

But on average, to insulate a house with polystyrene foam, you can be guided by the following rules:

The basement, the basement of the building, the slopes of the doors should be insulated with a material 5 cm thick and with a density of 35 kg / m 3.
outdoor and internal walls it is better to sheathe with a thickness of 7 cm and a density of 25 kg / m 3.
To protect the ceiling and attic from cold and wind, it is suitable for a thickness of 5-7 cm and a density of 15 kg / m 3.

The main thing is to purchase high-quality material that was stored in a dry room. Styrofoam should not be wet and yellow. It should be without any damage.

How to sheathe a house with foam

To cover the house with polystyrene foam, you first need to purchase the right amount of insulation. To do this, the total area of the outer walls of the building is calculated, door and window openings are taken away and a margin of 10-15% is added. After all, the material may be damaged or the cut pieces may not fit. You should try to make as few seams as possible.

After purchase necessary materials and preparing the basic tools, you can start trimming. For proper conduct works need to follow technology.

How to insulate a house with foam plastic from the outside. Step-by-step instruction

The technology of wall insulation from the outside is as follows:

Wall preparation begins with cleaning the surface of the old coating, if any. brick or concrete walls thoroughly cleaned of loose plaster, debris and dirt. There should be no falling pieces of walls on the wall. When the wall is not damaged, you can proceed to the primer.

Stage priming surface is carried out for better adhesion of the insulation to the wall. For this, a primer is purchased at the store. deep penetration and applied with a brush to the wall. This process also gets rid of unwanted dust particles, resulting in a smoother wall.

After such work, you can begin gluing the insulation. The most optimal material for this is tile adhesive. It is convenient in that it is very quickly diluted with water to the desired consistency and allows you to firmly glue the insulation.

Diluted glue is applied with a brush to the wall. It should be spread with a thin layer, after which the prepared foam sheet should be applied for a few seconds.

Despite the fact that the top of the foam will be covered with a finishing material, it must be laid as evenly as possible. It is necessary to ensure that there is a small gap between the plates, as when laying tiles.

Puttying carried out after the installation of all sheets. This stage consists in sealing the seams. It is allowed to use tile adhesive for these purposes, with which the foam was mounted. You can take a special putty mixture. But in no case can not be sealed with a gypsum mixture. Otherwise, cold bridges may form, which will lead to useless installation of insulation.

After sealing the seams, the wall must be treated with a starting and finishing putty. This is necessary to ensure that the surface is perfectly flat.

It is very important to use reinforced corners at the corners of the building, which sit on the putty. They will strengthen the insulation, and increase resistance to any mechanical stress.

Floor and ceiling insulation

In addition to insulating the walls from the outside, you can use the method of thermal insulation from the roof and from the basement. This will further protect the house from heat loss.

The most optimal way to insulate the floor is to install foam from the basement side. For this ceiling basement it is cleaned, processed with a mixture for sealing irregularities, primed and insulated with foam. After that, the seams are smeared, a layer of putty and any finishing material is applied.

If it is not possible to install the plates from the basement side, they can be attached indoors. For this:

Waterproofing is laid on the wooden floor, bars are stuffed, between which foam plastic is laid, waterproofing, chipboard sheets are stuffed on top.
On the concrete base a primer is applied, bars are mounted, sheets are fastened, covered with waterproofing, then with chipboard sheets.

It should be borne in mind that before warming the floor, it must be carefully examined for the presence of cracks, mold and fungus. It is imperative to get rid of this, otherwise the problem will develop under the insulation.

The ceiling is insulated using the same technology: preparation, priming, fixing profiles, foam, sealing, puttying. The insulation can be attached to the installed frame using dowels.

For proper insulation of the house, you can listen to the advice of professionals:

It is better to start insulation from the roof, then move on to the outer walls and foundation.
It is necessary to choose a material of suitable thickness and density so that there are no problems with its installation.
For a more durable installation of the foam, you can use umbrella dowels, which allow you to more securely hold the foam.

You can study common mistakes when insulating the facade in the video. Expert advice is provided on how to choose the right material, as well as conduct insulation.

The process of insulating a house with polystyrene foam is quite simple. The material for work has a small weight, which allows it to be glued to the surface without installing rails. But you still need to adhere to the technology, so that the result is of the highest quality.

Insulation of the house with foam: step-by-step instruction, professional advice

How to properly insulate a house with foam: necessary tools and materials, the required thickness of the foam, how to sheathe, step by step instructions

Insulation of the house with polystyrene foam: how to properly sheathe the house with polystyrene foam with your own hands?

It doesn't matter what house you live in: it can be your own Vacation home, cottage, apartment in a high-rise building and other structures. You always want to live in warmth and comfort, for which you definitely need to take care of covering the house with insulating materials. If the walls are properly and efficiently insulated, you will not have to worry that they will freeze in the cold, the heat in your home will remain to the maximum.

How to insulate a house with foam?

Especially you can’t do without insulation if your house is built of beams, because they are not able to save heat, as a result of which you will have to pay decent amounts for heating the house in the winter cold.

So that the insulation of the house does not cost a pretty penny, it has become popular to use foam. Polyfoam is not only cheap, but also has the following advantages:

light weight;
unhindered breathability;
able to suppress noise;
It has high level thermal resistance;
not afraid of moisture;
easy to work and decorate.

Because warm house- the key to a properly executed installation of insulation material, later in the article we will tell you how to insulate a house with polystyrene foam, doing everything with your own hands quickly and efficiently.

What is styrofoam?

We warm private house using foam

First of all, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that polystyrene is a material in which there is no vapor permeability; it is strictly forbidden to use it for sheathing a room from the inside.

The density of the foam is also very important. Most suitable option the density should be about 25. If you decide to insulate the walls with a less dense material, there will be a possibility of injuring the surfaces, and too dense material will lead to unjustified financial waste, because excessive density will not affect the thermal insulation characteristics in any way.

Third, no less important point- the thickness of the foam, on which the quality of surface insulation directly depends. It is best to use foam with a thickness of 50mm, but you can also purchase thicker material, no one forbids you, and a thickness of 100mm also has the right to exist. Using thicker foam, prepare to see a higher price category. To avoid rash and unnecessary financial investments, you can attract experienced craftsmen who will make the correct calculations and select best option for your climate zone. When calculating, they will take into account the following indicators:

average temperatures;
the thickness of the walls that you plan to sheathe;
the material from which those walls are made and much more.

Comparative characteristics of conventional foam with extruded are shown in the table below.

As can be seen from the table, it is more appropriate to insulate the house with extruded foam plastic, the technical features of which are superior to ordinary foam sheets in many respects.

What can not be done without while working with polystyrene foam?

Do-it-yourself insulation of the house with polystyrene foam

Before you insulate the house from the outside with extruded foam, you need to acquire building materials and devices that you cannot do without in such a matter. Working with polystyrene foam you will need:

perforator;
sharp knife;
several different spatulas;
dowels made of plastic with a wide cap;
glue;
reinforcement;
rule;
putty for work outside the house;
priming;
metal spacers;
decorative material for facade decoration.

Home insulation technology

Insulation of the house with foam plastic yourself

Warming wooden house foam, like any other building, requires high-quality surface preparation.

It is very important to properly prepare the surfaces:

remove the old finishing material;
clean the surface;
repair cavities and clean out bulges;

Of course, you absolutely do not need an ideal surface, but severe damage and defects are also unacceptable, because they will not allow the surface to be properly sheathed and cold bridges can form.

Then, as the surface is properly prepared, you can start impregnating it with a primer solution. The primer must be of deep action, which will increase the level of adhesion with the mounting adhesive.

At the next stage, it is possible to directly insulate surfaces with extruded foam.

For such work, you need to dilute the adhesive mass with water following the instructions. The mass should be well mixed without dry breasts, and the consistency should be homogeneous, not too thick, but not too liquid - it is better that the density resembles the consistency of sour cream.

To apply mounting adhesive with your own hands, you can use a spatula with teeth, but do not rush to cover the entire surface with it. It can dry out very quickly and you won't be able to treat the area properly.

In order for the cladding of the building from the outside with polystyrene foam to be done correctly, follow the following sequence of actions:

cover the wall with glue (the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall must correspond to the size of the foam sheet);
lay out the heater;
apply glue under the second sheet of styrofoam and so on.

This sequence indicates that it is very important that the sheets are laid gradually, and the joints of the canvas are carefully lubricated with glue.

In order to properly insulate the house from the outside with penoplex with your own hands, control the evenness of the plates.

To keep the sheets as firmly as possible on the walls, they can not only be pressed tightly against the surface of the walls, but also fixed with special fasteners. For these purposes, it is better to choose dowels that need to be inserted into the wall 50 mm, or even deeper.

So that the fasteners do not fall into the insulation, it is worth acquiring metal spacers. Before screwing the dowels, holes must first be made in the foam using a puncher or drill.

Please note that you do not need to press the foam hard, because it can crack from your excessive exposure.

When the insulation of the building from the outside is completed, it will be necessary to attach reinforcement to the wall. To do this, you'd better cut it into strips of the same size that match the length of the walls. Then, with a wide spatula, spread the glue over the surface under one strip of the mesh, lay it on the surface and smooth it with a spatula to avoid hitches. Apply the next strip of reinforcement overlapping, this will avoid cracking the material at the joints.

Sheathing a house with foam plastic requires finishing, because an untreated reinforced surface does not look very attractive, and constant exposure to natural disasters will damage the integrity and quality of the finish.

As a finish on the outside of the house, you can use decorative plaster or paint. But, before applying them to the surface, the wall must be puttied.

Insulation of the house with foam

Before you begin to sheathe your house outside with insulation materials, read these recommendations for work:

in order to sheathe the house with high quality and save as much money as possible on utility bills during the heating period, select a foam plastic with a density of 25 and a thickness of 40 mm;
if you were unable to buy a special glue, you can use the usual glue-cement, which is used for ceramics;
purchase a reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 5mm;
so that the foam is more firmly fixed on the wall, before applying the adhesive mass, the surface can be treated with a needle roller, which forms additional perforation;
in order to increase the level of adhesion of the foam plastic with the reinforcing mesh, it is worth priming the surface before laying it.

In conclusion, I would like to add that by observing the above foam plastic installation technology, you can get warm housing without disturbing its microclimate. Thus, in the work you will not make any mistakes and reduce the amount of heat loss in your home.

As you can see, such warming of the house does not take much time and your family budget will not incur large financial expenses if you carry out the work on your own, without involving expensive specialists.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the house with foam plastic (photo)

How to insulate a house with foam. Comparison table between foam and extruded material. Tips and tricks for warming your own hands.

Styrofoam wall cladding

Styrofoam features
Preparatory work
Installation of foam sheets
The final stage

Styrofoam features

Styrofoam sheathing of the walls of the house will help to insulate the building and create comfortable living conditions. In addition to its thermal insulation function, the foam performs moisture wicking and protective. The surface of the material can be covered with plaster or facade paint to obtain a pleasant external effect.

Scheme of facade cladding with foam plastic.

This material has a long service life. If you properly sheathe the house with foam, then neither the bright sun, nor changes in humidity, nor frost will affect it. The walls of the house can be sheathed with foam inside and out. Immediately after the lining is ready, you can feel additional warmth and comfort, which in the future will help to significantly reduce energy consumption.

Polyfoam has such positive qualities as lightness, low density, cleanliness, environmental friendliness, protection from noise and fire, vapor and water resistance, resistance to external factors, chemical inertness, high quality, durability, versatility, popularity, availability.

The process of styrofoam cladding at home is quite simple and does not require specialized tools or professional labor.

Preparatory work

The scheme of insulation of the house from the outside.

Before sheathing a house with foam, you need to take measurements correctly to determine the required amount of material. To correctly measure the walls, you should measure the walls, then multiply the height of the walls by their length. The result is a number from which you need to subtract the dimensions of doors and windows.

Then you need to prepare the materials that will be needed to install the foam sheets. You will definitely need:

Styrofoam;
adhesive mixture;
plinth rail;
fiberglass mesh for reinforcement;
painting corners;
soil with deep penetration;
dry mix for plastering;
mineral wool blocks intended for window slopes.

When sheathing the walls of the house with foam plastic, the following tools are needed:

grater with metal teeth;
a good impact drill or hammer drill;
special nozzle for a drill - "mixer";
construction knife;
drill;
roulette;
level;
construction stapler and staples;
brush with which the primer is applied;
fishing line;
dowels;
spatulas of different sizes;
capacity for glue and solutions;
starting profile.

Scheme of insulation and cladding of the house.

Then, for maximum adhesion of the sheets, the surface should be properly prepared, eliminating all roughness and irregularities. In no case should foam be glued to old peeling wallpaper or paint. It is necessary to thoroughly clean and wash the walls, remove all lamps, sockets, wires, old putty and everything that comes off, peels off and crumbles from the walls.

Chips and cracks must be repaired. Walls should be primed and left until the next morning. The primer helps to strengthen the plane of the walls and absorbs all the dust, which allows the layers to be very firmly fixed. In the lower part of the wall, plinth profiles should be installed corresponding to the width of the foam sheets. The thickness of the sheets must be at least 5 cm. In terms of quality, they will replace the heat-insulating brick wall two bricks wide. When installing such material, the temperature inside the room will increase by five degrees.

Installation of foam sheets

Styrofoam sheets are fixed using liquid nails or mounting glue. The adhesive mixture can be replaced with the adhesive used for putty and tiles. For its preparation, it is necessary to thoroughly mix the composition with water. As a result, a homogeneous mass should form, similar in consistency to sour cream.

The process of insulating a house with polystyrene foam is very quick and easy. It is desirable to carry out this procedure in calm and dry weather so that the glue grabs better. The foam should be treated with glue and leveled with a tile spatula, and then fixed to the wall so that the width of the seams between the sheets is about 2 mm.

The walls must also be treated with glue using the same technology, using a spatula. From the edge of the sheet you need to retreat 2 cm and apply glue to the center and around the perimeter. It is necessary to press the material well against the wall, it is better to do this with a special grater for polystyrene plaster.

The scheme of applying the solution to the sheets of foam when insulating walls.

If gaps of more than 10 mm are formed between the plates, they must be filled with mounting foam. To ensure bonding, the second row of tiles should be laid offset from the first row. In the corners of the house and in the places where the slopes are installed, make pressure for better docking of the panel with the walls.

At the joints in the center, the material should be additionally fixed with dowels, this will help ensure mechanical fastening. To do this, it is necessary to drill 5 small holes in each sheet and hammer nails into them. 1 hole should be located in the center, the other 4 - in the corners.

Pay attention to the dowel caps, they should be exactly flush with the foam sheets. To fix the dowel, hammer nails into the technological hole with a hammer. It is advisable to use only metal dowels, because plastic ones can simply break. It is necessary to achieve a deepening of the nails by 1-2 mm into the foam cavity.

The final stage

Usually glue dries about 3 days. It is possible to start puttying sheets, which is done with a layer of 2 mm, only after sheathing the house with foam from the outside. You can use tile adhesive or a special mixture. For putty, a special foam grater is used. Gypsum mortars are absolutely not suitable for this purpose, as they absorb moisture well.

The seams must be rubbed in such a way as to remove all protruding corners and provide a good surface. A fiberglass mesh should be applied to the plaster, but this step can be skipped if you used reinforced foam. Before this procedure, the surface must be coated with a primer. At corner joints, a corner profile should be installed.

Reinforced mesh should be glued with glue-cement. It must be cut into the same pieces as the foam. Glue is applied to the surface of the foam and leveled with a wide spatula. Then a grid is applied and also leveled with a spatula. Great, if the solution completely covers the mesh, you can add a little more adhesive.

After that, you need to grout using a grater with replaceable emery. This procedure must be carried out after the material has completely solidified, as a rule, a day is enough for this. Then a primer should be applied to the surface again, then a leveling mixture, also using a spatula.

Need to achieve good quality surfaces so that paint, decorative plaster, stone cladding or mosaic can then be applied. Small flaws during alignment may remain. They can be removed after drying with ordinary sandpaper. For convenience, emery can be fixed on a bar. After the final stage decorative finishes, the house will become much warmer and more comfortable.

Styrofoam sheathing can be called an almost ideal way to protect walls from fungi, freezing and other negative factors. In addition, polystyrene is indispensable for insulating basements, foundations, floors, underground parts of a building, walls, roofs and basement floors. In addition to all these advantages, it well protects waterproofing from harmful effects. environment, and pipelines - from freezing.

How to sheathe a house with foam plastic: installation

During construction, the question may arise how to sheathe the house with foam. This procedure can be performed independently. To fix the sheets, use liquid nails or mounting glue. October 29, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Penoplex is one of the most common heaters today. However, despite this, not everyone knows that his exterior finish requires a special approach, different from the finishing of foam or mineral wool. Therefore, so that your efforts, time and money are not wasted, in this article I will tell you how to properly finish the facade with foam plastic.

Features of penoplex

In order to further understand the subtleties and nuances of the foam plastic finish, we first get acquainted with the features of this material. First of all, I note that its correct name is extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation was called Penoplex by the people in honor of the Penoplex company, which, as you might guess, is engaged in its production.

The foam is based on ordinary expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), which is subjected to special processing under the influence of high temperature. Thanks to this, he acquires the following qualities:

higher strength;
homogeneous smooth structure;
zero moisture absorption;
vapor permeability;
lower thermal conductivity than conventional foam.

Often, manufacturers add fire retardant additives to the composition of the foam, as a result of which the material acquires a flammability class G1. True, only the most expensive brands of extruded polystyrene foam from well-known manufacturers have this quality.

On the one hand, due to these properties, extruded polystyrene foam is a more attractive insulation. But on the other hand, due to zero moisture absorption and a smooth, homogeneous structure, this material has very poor adhesion. Therefore, initially it is generally not intended for use in "wet facade" insulation systems.

A big mistake for beginners is that they try to finish foam in the same way as regular foam. This leads to the fact that the reinforcing mesh lags behind it along with the plaster (glue), immediately after hardening.

The price of penoplex is several times higher than the cost of ordinary foam. Therefore, this material makes sense to use only where its qualities, such as strength, are really important. For example, it can be used for finishing basement floors.

Penoplex finishing technology

The process of finishing penoplex can be divided into several stages.

Extruded polystyrene foam can also be used in the arrangement of hinged (ventilated facades). In this case, work is carried out in the same way as in the case of using other heat-insulating materials, such as foam.

Instrument preparation

So, before finishing the penoplex, you need to prepare a certain set of materials:

adhesive primer, for example, Ceresit CT19;
Ceresit CT83 glue or its equivalent;
fiberglass mesh for outdoor use;
perforated corners;
universal facade primer;
decorative facade plaster;
facade paint.

In addition, you should prepare the following inventory:

needle roller or metal brush;
a set of spatulas;
plaster grinder;
building level;
construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle;
paint roller and pallet;
paint brush;
mounting knife.

Now you can get to work.

Reinforcement preparation

Preparation for reinforcement is the most critical stage of work, since it depends on it, the adhesion of finishing materials to the foam, respectively, and the durability of the entire finish. Instructions for performing preparatory work looks like this:

first of all the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam must be roughened. To do this, treat the insulation with a needle roller or a metal brush. You can also use ordinary sandpaper stretched over a jointer for these purposes;

then the surface should be additionally treated with an external adhesive primer. To do this, pour liquid into the roller tray and dip the roller itself into it. During the application, make sure that the primer lays down in a thin, even layer.
After the first layer of soil dries, the procedure is repeated again;
then you need to stick perforated corners on the outer corners of the foam using Ceresit CT83. In the process of their installation, use the building level so that they are located strictly vertically or horizontally.

That's all the nuances of preparation. Now you can start reinforcing the foam.

Reinforcement

Do-it-yourself foam reinforcement is carried out as follows:

First of all, cut the fiberglass mesh into sheets of the desired length. Keep in mind that the mesh should be placed with a twist at the corners and an overlap of about 100 mm;
then prepare the Ceresit CT83 glue according to the instructions on the package;
after that, apply glue to the area according to the size of the mesh with a thickness of about 5-7 mm;
then treat the area covered with glue with a notched trowel, while discarding the excess glue that will remain on the trowel back into the container with glue;
now attach the mesh to the glue, having previously leveled it, and iron it with an even wide spatula. As a result, the mesh should be completely immersed in the adhesive;
according to this scheme, it is necessary to reinforce the entire surface of the insulation;
after hardening, drying of the surface, you need to apply another layer of glue about 3 mm thick. For the second layer, you can make the adhesive thinner to make it easier to work with.

In the process of applying the second layer, try to get rid of all the flaws in the surface, as if you were filling the walls.

This completes the reinforcement of the insulation.

decorative trim

Decorative finishing of penoplex outside is carried out as follows:

start work with surface treatment with universal facade primer. This work is carried out according to the scheme described above;
then you need to mix decorative plaster in water according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which is available on the package;
then the surface is covered with decorative plaster using a bevel or a wide spatula. The solution should be applied as thinly as possible.

In the photo - mashing decorative plaster

after 5-7 minutes, when the plaster begins to set on the walls, grouting is performed. To do this, place the malka flat, and, slightly pressing it against the plaster, make circular or reciprocating movements with your hand;
after the decorative plaster dries, you can start painting the facade. The easiest way to do this work is with a paint facade roller.

Try to apply the paint in a thin, even layer, and, of course, avoid streaks. To qualitatively paint over the surface, paint in two or even three layers.

It is necessary to apply decorative plaster within one wall in one go, i.e. without interruption. Otherwise, the transition will be evident even after painting.

This completes the exterior. I must say that you can use penoplex for interior decoration walls, for example, if you need to insulate a loggia or. In this case, instead of decorative plaster, you can cover the reinforced surface with putty and then any top coat.

Output

Despite poor adhesion, penoplex is quite amenable to finishing, which allows it to be used as a facade insulation. The only thing is that this procedure requires strict adherence to technology. Especially responsibly it is necessary to approach the preparation of the surface of the insulation for reinforcement.

Owners of private houses often want to find best way save on heating. The simplest and affordable way- execute proper insulation. Styrofoam has gained wide popularity among builders. This insulation has low thermal conductivity, which allows you to keep warm in winter and cool in hot weather. In addition, such material is easy to mount on the facade of any building. To figure out how to insulate a house with foam, you should understand the technology of work.

Choice of Styrofoam

When insulating the facade from the outside, it is easiest to use foam. Such work will not be difficult even for a beginner in the construction industry. First you need to choose the type of material. Today, many manufacturers offer these types of expanded polystyrene in plates:

Foamed. The composition of such a material contains cells filled with air. These balls are obtained by hot forming methods. In the manufacture of expanded polystyrene foam, pressing can be used.
extruded. When it is created, the extrusion technique is used. This is the name of the method in which the molten mass is forced through a special apparatus. At the same time, it is affected high temperatures. The result is a material with a dense finely porous structure. Due to this, polystyrene foam acquires high water resistance. When using extruded polystyrene foam, the insulation layer of the plinth, basements and bases does not need to be additionally protected.

These types of expanded polystyrene are used for various tasks. They must be applied in accordance with certain rules. It is better to purchase foam boards specially designed for facade work. The density of such panels is usually 25 kg/m3.

You can determine how strong a foam sheet is by eye. The smaller the size of the granules and the greater their density, the higher the strength of the material. On the cut of the foam board, you can see how loose the structure is. When choosing extruded polystyrene foam, you should pay attention to plates with L-shaped edges. Such material has a higher price, but the thermal conductivity during its installation is significantly reduced.

The product must be of the highest quality. Particular attention should be paid to the sanitary certificate, marking on the end of the foam boards and indicators of compliance with GOST. A simple instruction will help you understand how to insulate a house from the outside with foam plastic.

Preparing a building with foam cladding

Before sheathing the house with foam, the facade should be prepared in a certain way. First, the walls are cleaned of paint, plaster, dirt and irregularities. Differences of no more than 2 cm are allowed. If large recesses or bumps remain on the wall, the foam plastic may be damaged with light exposure. Rusty stains are also removed from the wall. All metal parts that will be under the insulation should first be treated with an anti-corrosion compound.

You can check how ready the wall is for foam installation. To do this, it is enough to run your hand over it. If small particles of paint or other coatings remain on the palm, it is worth cleaning the surface more thoroughly. When the wall cannot be cleaned, putty is applied to it. It is usually mixed with PVA. The primer is easier to apply with a brush.

When finishing the facade using simple foam, it is not necessary to specially prepare the insulation material. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, the surface of the boards should be scratched. For this task, a special roller with spikes or a metal brush is used. This will provide better adhesion of the material to the wall surface. You can figure out how to properly insulate a house with foam plastic when you get acquainted with the technology of work.

Installation of foam

Insulation of the facade with foam boards involves dividing the process into several stages. Each of them requires certain subtleties to be observed. When performing all procedures, it is necessary to follow the recommendations of experienced builders.

Board bonding

This stage is performed in a certain sequence:

installation of the starting bar;
gluing polystyrene boards.

Finishing the facade with foam plastic begins after sewing up the ebbs and slopes. It is important to follow the technology:

Important! Mineral wool fire protection belts should be laid around windows and doors. This condition must be observed in accordance with safety requirements.

Taking into account such features of the installation of polystyrene foam will help to properly insulate the house. If you follow the advice of experienced builders, the work will be done quickly, and the result will meet expectations.

Fixing panels with dowels

The next step is to fix the foam panels with dowels. However, such work should be carried out only after the adhesive has completely cured. Otherwise, the sheets will move away from the wall. Then the work is performed in the following sequence:

At the end of this stage, the attachment points of the dowels and the joints of the plates must be sealed with a special compound. Insulation of a private house with foam plastic is carried out according to a certain technology.

Mesh installation

When insulating the facade, it should be increased with a fiberglass mesh. It is made on the basis of fiberglass. Each corner element is reinforced with aluminum corners.

Before installing the mesh, the adhesive should be evenly distributed over the entire surface. The composition layer should be approximately 2-3 mm. The mesh is attached to the top. Then the surface must be rolled out with a spatula. As a result of this work, the mesh is completely immersed in the adhesive. Cloths are mounted with an overlap. It is necessary that each canvas runs into the other by 5 cm. A 15 cm bend is made at the corners. The base should be mounted in two layers.

On top of the mesh should be applied another layer of adhesive. Fiberglass mesh with this installation shines through the adhesive.

At the final stage, the facade is treated with soil, and then finishing surfaces. Such work is carried out no less than two days after the installation of the reinforcing mesh. The walls are decorated with putty for painting. Special plaster can also be used.

In addition to the wet façade technology, the ventilated façade installation method can also be used. However, the use of foam in such insulation is not recommended. This is due to the fact that the air currents that rise upwards, in the event of a fire, cause a rapid burning of the facade. In the process of insulating the walls of the house, you will have to figure out how to putty the foam.

conclusions

Polyfoam is characterized by low thermal conductivity, high strength and flexibility, ease of installation. Such advantages allow the use of foam for external insulation in many cases.

Expanded polystyrene can be foamed and extruded. The second option is different the best performance and greater durability. When insulating a house with polystyrene foam with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account several subtleties.

First prepare the surface of the wall. Then the foam boards are glued. A reinforcing mesh is mounted on top. It should be well fixed in the adhesive layer. Then the walls are plastered and finished.

This sequence of work allows you to correctly install the foam plates, reliably insulating the walls of the house. In the process of insulation, it is important to monitor the accuracy of the installation of panels. It is important that the surface of the walls is as even as possible.

What is warmer foam or mineral wool

What is better foam or foam

Foam block dimensions are standard

Self-leveling floor "Unis"

Thermal insulation materials such as polystyrene are gaining more and more popularity every year. Styrofoam boards are made from small white porous cells glued together. These materials are made up of about 98% air. Each cell is isolated from the rest, so the thermal insulation properties of the foam are very high. Specially made plates are mainly used for external insulation of private houses.

Such a useful material is often used in the decoration of kiosks, refrigeration devices, as well as to protect electrical wiring laid underground. Finishing the facade with plaster after insulation is carried out according to a specially developed technology of a wet or ventilated facade.

There are several reasons why modern homeowners choose Styrofoam finishes to insulate the walls of the house from the outside:

Insulation from the outside contributes to the removal of the dew point from the wall structure. A dry building will not be affected by fungus, mold and, as a result, will last longer;
Useful area in the room is not lost;
Structures built of reinforced concrete, brick or, for example, stone, contribute to the accumulation of heat. The cold during frosts in such houses begins to appear much later;
The relative density of the foam has its advantages. After reinforcement, this material serves as a fairly reliable basis for finishing with plaster and subsequent painting.

Ease of installation and availability

Experienced experts say that better way you can’t imagine providing thermal insulation at home than foam insulation, especially if after that it is planned to finish the walls on the outside with plaster and subsequent painting. Materials such as expanded polystyrene, among many others, are distinguished by their low cost, low thermal conductivity, high service life, lightness, simplicity and ease of processing. Each owner of a private house is given the opportunity to significantly save financial costs by choosing this technology.

With the use of expanded polystyrene, the building will be well protected from moisture penetration and the possible formation of mold, fungi, and unpleasant odors. Such building materials can be used both for outdoor and for indoor installation. The second option is suitable for those who have a fairly large area of \u200b\u200brooms in their homes. In the future, the insulating materials are covered with drywall and painting or wallpapering, etc. is possible.

For external insulation, expanded polystyrene is glued or fixed with special dish-shaped dowels. In the process of work, experts recommend paying enough attention to isolation from ignition sources. To protect the thermal insulation material from external influences, many means available on the market are used:

Plastering and subsequent painting of the walls;
brick lining;
Ceramic refractory tiles.

It must be remembered that polystyrene is one of the most flammable substances and requires careful handling.

It should be noted that the insulation of the walls of the house with foam plastic and the finishing of facades with plaster after that is most often performed in southern regions countries where the summer is very hot and long. Therefore, it becomes necessary to reduce the cost of heating in winter and air conditioning if the outside temperature is high.

Let's deal with the main types of plates

Most often, the C-25 brand is used to insulate the walls of the house with foam plastic. The density of such a material is 25 kg / m3, but such polystyrene foam has too high rate thermal conductivity.

A lot also depends on the cost of the plates. The price for the S-25 brand starts from 1900 rubles, and the S-35 material is twice as expensive.
The climatic conditions of a particular region largely determine the required thickness of the material. For the Krasnodar Territory, for example, the insulation of the walls of the house with foam from the outside is performed using a material with a minimum thickness of 40-50 mm. In Yakutia or the Far East, finishing is carried out with plates from 150 mm.

The possibility of using polystyrene foam as a heater for wooden walls

It is technically possible to insulate wooden walls at home with foam plastic outside, but this is not recommended, as vapor permeability will deteriorate.
The main task of specialists in such cases will always be to ensure the correct vapor permeability. This figure should decrease from the outer walls to the inner ones. If this is not observed, moisture will accumulate inside the structure, which will eventually lead to decay.

Experts give the following recommendations:

The foam can be installed not on the wall, but on a pre-installed crate, which contributes to additional ventilation. To perform the technology correctly, it is necessary to install special rails, the thickness of which is at least 25 mm. At the same time, the recommended distance between them corresponds to a maximum of 25 cm. Subsequent insulation of the facade with foam plastic from the outside is carried out only using umbrella dowels.
The best option for finishing is the method of installing insulation between the profiles. Outside, such a facade is sheathed with siding or metal plates, if the ventilation facade installation technology is used.

The procedure for performing finishing work

First of all, it is necessary to level the wall as much as possible. Thus, the probability of thermal insulation damage as a result of mechanical impact is reduced. It is also recommended to pre-clean the wall surface if the facade has been painted before or is crumbling a little. To do this, you can use an ordinary spatula or brush.

The heater is installed in the following way:

The starting profile is mounted on the lower edge of the future facade;
The foam is installed from the bottom up and fixed with special glue and dowel umbrellas. A sufficient number of dish-shaped dowels is determined at the rate of at least 5 pieces per sheet.
Each new row of polystyrene foam boards is laid out so that the vertical seams do not match.
The reinforcement technology is as follows: Horizontal strips of reinforcing mesh are glued to each seam with an overlap of about 5-10 cm, after which they are treated with an adhesive. In the work it is recommended to use a wide spatula. Any irregularities are removed with a special grater after drying.
To fix the thermal insulation at the corners, it is necessary to use special perforated fixtures. Fragile foam will thus be reliably protected from mechanical damage.
At the stage of finishing the facade, putty or special structural plaster followed by painting.

Preparing a mixture for plastering

A variety of compositions are used to finish the foam plastic with plaster. Construction Materials made by different manufacturers are not recommended for use in facade decoration.

Some manufacturers produce products suitable for working with polystyrene boards containing only one mixture. For applying a plaster wall to thermal insulation and performing subsequent finishing work, it is recommended to use a universal mixture.

Approximately 4 kg of mixture per m is used for gluing the mesh, and up to 6 kg/m is needed for the final finishing of the facade. In the process of kneading, you must follow all the instructions given by the manufacturer on the package. Many years of experience of specialists in the construction field shows that it is much more convenient to prepare a mixture whose consistency should not be as thick as recommended by the manufacturer. For the leveling layer, the plaster composition must spread over the spatula.

Having dealt with the manufacturing technology of the mixture, you can begin to glue the mesh to securely fix the plaster on the foam.

Features of the correct plaster

When applying plaster, it is recommended to use a special grater made of foam or wood. Finishing materials are pressed against the wall and rubbed in a circular motion. The plaster must be well fixed on the smooth surface of the Styrofoam boards. For this, a special mesh is most often used, designed for finishing facade work, the density of which is 140-160g / m. The uniformity of the applied plaster layer is largely due to the density of the grid. But such material is not suitable for bends. It is necessary to start work from the corners, doorways, slopes. After that, the grouting procedure is performed using a special plastic grater with a fairly reliable canvas, but only after the adhesive has dried.

A leveling compound is applied to the spatula, the width of which is at least 350 mm;
All this mass is evenly and accurately applied to the wall. The possible thickness of the applied layer directly depends on the quality of the previously done grouting of the plaster mesh;
The leveling layer is applied in several sections, the points of contact of which should not coincide with the joints of the plaster mesh.

To finish the facades of the building, silicone, silicate, mineral, or acrylic plaster is used. The quality of some materials allows them to be painted in different colors. It should be noted that the silicone lining can be cleaned with rainwater.

To reduce heating costs, many owners of houses and apartments are thinking about insulation. One of the possible options is to insulate the facade with foam plastic (PPS or EPS). The work is not the easiest, but you can do it yourself. It is important to know the technology. About it in detail, in detail and we will tell further.

Proper insulation of the facade with foam plastic gives good results

EPS or EPS (styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam)

Insulation of the facade with foam plastic begins with a solution to the question: what is still better to use, foam plastic (PPS) or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). Both of these materials are made from the same starting material (polystyrene), but they are used various technologies. It is hardly worth going into the intricacies of the processes, it is important to know the main differences between these two materials. So, in short:

Styrofoam is softer, absorbs moisture, insects and rodents like to huddle in it. With good characteristics, it has a low cost.
XPS is more rigid and dense, practically does not absorb water, insects and rodents do not like it. Its main disadvantage is its high price. In the case of wall insulation from the outside, there is one more minus - its pre-treatment is necessary (it is necessary to scratch the surface), and this is time.

There is another plus of EPPS - usually plates are made with a quarter, that is, there will be much fewer direct joints during insulation, which means fewer cold bridges. The choice is not easy, especially when you consider that the price difference is substantial - 2 times. To make it easier to decide, several positions at the prices of EPP and PPP are shown in the table.

PRIMAPLEX 35 (EPPS)	35 kg/m3	50 mm	1200mm*600mm	4250 - 4400 rub/cu.m.
PRIMAPLEX 35 (EPPS)	35 kg/m3	100 mm	1200mm*600mm	4850-5100 rub/cu.m.
TEPLEX 35 (EPPS)	35 kg/m3	50 mm	1200mm*600mm	4450-4650 rub/cu.m.
TEPLEX 35 (EPPS)	35 kg/m3	100 mm	1200mm*600mm	4450-4650 rub/cu.m.
URSA XPS N-III (EPPS)	35 kg/m3	50 mm	1250mm*600mm	4400-4500 rub/cu.m.
CARBON PROF 300 (EPS)	35 kg/m3	50 mm	1180mm*580mm	4500-4650 rub/cu.m.
CARBON PROF 300 (EPS)	35 kg/m3	100 mm	1180mm*580mm	4500-4650 rub/cu.m.
	17 kg/m3	50 mm	1000mm*2000mm	2330-2480 rub/cu.m.
Polyfoam Mosstroy 31 PSBS 25	17 kg/m3	100 mm	1000mm*2000mm	2330-2480 rub/cu.m.
Polyfoam Mosstroy 31 PSBS 25F (t. 50 mm.) Facade	16.5 kg/m3	100 mm	1000mm*2000mm	3000-3150 rub/cu.m.
Knauf Therm Wall	25 kg/m3	50mm/100mm	1000mm*1200mm	2465-2600 rub/cu.m.
Knauf Therm Facade Light		50mm/100mm	1000mm*1200mm	2850-2950 rub/cu.m.

Having decided on the type of material, you can proceed with the installation.

Preparatory work

Insulation of the facade with foam plastic begins with the preparation of the walls. Let's say right away when it is better to start work - in the warm period of time. But the most important indicator is the humidity of the walls. They must be dry. After the rain, it is advisable to wait a week for dry, preferably windy, weather. After that, you can start.

Exterior wall preparation

Preparation for the insulation of the facade with foam plastic begins with the cleansing of everything that peels off and falls off. If the walls were covered with paint, it is removed, the lime is cleaned off. If there are swollen places of plaster or tiles, they upholster it. Only that which is firmly held should remain.

Everything that can fall must be cleared

Then it's time to level the walls. It is very good if the insulation boards lie on the wall with the entire surface, without voids. But such walls are more an exception than a rule, therefore irregularities of about 1 cm per square meter. Protrusions and pits that are large in depth / height must be leveled - filled with plaster mortar (previously primed) or cut off. The smoother the surface, the easier the job will be.

To prime or not

It is not necessary to prime only those walls, running a hand over which, the palm remains clean. If there are white marks, pieces of plaster, sand, etc., it is better to prime. This will provide best contact glue with the wall. The operation takes a little time, is carried out simply, requires little money, and the benefits from it are great. So if you are doing the insulation of the facade with foam plastic or EPS "for yourself", it is better to prime it.

The priming process is uncomplicated, but very useful

Any primer is suitable for facade work. Normal firms - Ceresit, Master, Stolit, Chrysel, Tokan, Ekomiks. The primer is diluted or not - depending on the form of release and instructions, applied with a brush or spray. A sprayer is faster and easier, but a brush is better.

EPS preparation

If you decide to insulate the walls from the outside with expanded polystyrene (EPS), its surface must be made not so smooth. Polyfoam has a looser structure and does not need preliminary preparation. On the surface of the EPS, scratches must be made, otherwise it falls off the glue.

EPS preparation tools

They take a spiked roller, which is used to process drywall, and they are well rolled in all directions. The second way is to take a brush with metal bristles and make a groove with it. Softer methods don't work. The work is not hard, but it takes a lot of time. It must be done before you start installing polystyrene foam on the walls. If the insulation will be laid in two layers, it is necessary to process sheets for both layers.

Finishing window sills, slopes, low tide

All elements - window sills, slopes and ebb (drip) are best installed before the installation of insulation on the walls. When installing, you must remember that you will still have a solid thickness of insulation + finish. If the window sills and slopes have already been installed, they will have to be replaced - they will be too short. To make everything look organic and easily fit into the insulation cake, the elements should have the following dimensions:

The window sill should protrude 3-4 cm beyond the plane of the wall (more or less is not necessary). If the thickness of the insulation is 60 mm, you will need a window sill with a depth of 100-110 mm (60 mm insulation, 10 mm finish, 30-40 mm ledge). When installing a window sill, all voids must be filled. You can lay thermal insulation plates, fill the gaps with mounting foam and lay a window sill on all this, load it with something heavy and leave it for 3-4 hours.
Insulation of the facade with foam plastic begins with slopes
When separating the slopes, they should protrude beyond the plane of the existing wall (without insulation) by 1 cm. So it will be easier to join it with insulation. They put it on glue (the same one that will be used when insulating the facade with foam). There is another subtlety here: for finishing the slopes, a heater of a smaller thickness is required - 20-30 mm maximum. A thicker one will simply “climb” onto the glass (do not forget about the presence of finishing layers, we leave about 10 mm on them).
Between the base and the insulation, an ebb is installed (also called a "drip"). This is a galvanized steel strip with powder coating. It is mounted on the plinth with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the material of the plinth) in increments of 20 cm. It is sold in pieces of two meters each, during installation one piece overlaps another by 10-15 cm. Ebb is necessary so that the water flowing down the wall does not leak into the house, and merged into the street.
Ebb installation (drip)

As you can see preparatory work before insulating the facade with polystyrene foam (polystyrene) also take time. They are not difficult, but significantly affect the overall result.

The technology of mounting foam on the walls

For a normal result, the foam is first glued to the walls, then nailed. Exactly so, and not otherwise. Gluing starts from the bottom, usually from the left corner. If the house is insulated with foam plastic, then the first row is supported by an installed ebb, if thermal insulation is improved in apartment building, nail the starting bar. Without it, there is a high probability that the foam will crawl down.

Materials and tools

To stick the foam on the walls, you will need two spatulas. One is about 100 mm wide, the second is 180-200 mm. Narrow pick up glue from the container, wide apply it to the walls. You may also need a saw with a fine-toothed blade to cut the material. Of the tools at this stage, everything. You will still need glue. It requires a special one, the bag should say “for polystyrene boards” or something similar. There are two types of this glue:

Universal composition for polystyrene and subsequent facade finishing (mesh gluing and leveling layer).
Composition only for gluing polystyrene on walls. Other layers require universal.

If you approach the issue from an economic point of view, it is more profitable to buy two different compositions - the universal one is decently more expensive. And glue can do a number of operations:

glue polystyrene to the wall and on the slopes;
grease the joints of the insulation;
lubricate mounting fungi;
For gluing polystyrene on the walls you need a special glue

The list of works for which universal glue is needed is as follows:

gluing the mesh to the corners (and slopes too) and walls;
applying a leveling layer.

The consumption of both compositions is approximately the same and amounts to 4-6 kg per square meter. Consumption may be less if the walls are initially even and a smaller layer of glue is required (no need to level the depressions). The consumption for the leveling layer (after gluing the mesh) depends on how evenly the polystyrene is fixed, whether its corners stick out or not.

For additional fixation of polystyrene to the wall, fungi are needed

For the second stage - fixing polystyrene on the walls - fungi will be needed. These are specially shaped dowels with a large plastic cap and a long leg. Steel or plastic dowel-nails are inserted into the dowels. When insulating the facade with polystyrene, it is better to use plastic ones. They do not conduct cold, are not subject to corrosion, cost less, and a large insulated facade does not create a load.

To install the fungi, you will need a drill and a hammer. To apply the mesh and leveling layer, you will need another wide spatula - 300-350 mm or even more. To grind the leveling layer, you will need a plastic float and sandpaper with a grain of 400-500.

Technique for gluing polystyrene on walls

The glue is closed with water according to the manufacturer's recommendations (stir with a drill with a nozzle or a mixer). It is more convenient to work when it is a little thicker than it turns out if you follow the recommendations. Therefore, we do not add a little less water, and there we look at how convenient it is to work.

If the wall is uneven, apply glue to the wall. This makes it easier to correct bumps - put more in the recesses and less on the humps. If there is too much hump left to reduce the consumption of glue, a notch can be made in the foam. With EPPS, such a trick will not work.

Apply glue like this, but only on the walls, not on the foam

The solution is laid in “flat cakes” up to 9-10 in area, and a roller (may not be continuous) is made approximately along the perimeter of the plate, stepping back 3-4 cm from the edge. The sizes of the cakes are not necessarily the same. It is only important to level the surface as much as possible. Having laid out the glue, we apply the foam, press it down, clap it with the palm of our hand (not hard, so as not to wrinkle). Sausages laid out along the edges can crawl out of the seams or “swim” under other sheets. The fact that they crawl onto other sheets is normal and even good, it will hold on stronger. But the glue that came out is better to pick up. Then there will be less alignment.

There is a second technique - apply glue to the foam, level it with a comb (notched trowel) and glue it like that. But this method is only suitable for flat facades without drops.

If the wall is even, apply a continuous even layer on the foam

When laying the second row, the sheets are positioned so that the seams are not continuous (offset, such as brickwork). All subsequent rows also make sure that the seams do not match. We leave the foam glued on the facade for 3 days - approximately the glue dries. In the meantime, glue it on the second section.

A few words about how it is more convenient to glue the foam on the facade and what kind of area. If a private house is insulated with polystyrene foam, the areas of work are significant, as is the height. Some of the work will be done from the ground, some will have to be carried out from the scaffolds. To carry them less, it is more convenient to carry out work in sections. One section is done completely - from gluing the foam to the leveling layer, proceed to the next. In this order of work, there is another plus: less polystyrene remains open (it does not react well to ultraviolet light).

Divide the house into sections with different stages of work

We nail the foam (EPS)

So, after the glue has dried (3 days have passed since it was glued), we take plastic fungi (those that are more expensive, they are hard and clog well). Their length depends on the thickness of the insulation. To it (thickness) must be added 4-5 cm, on which the fungus must enter the wall. If you have a foam layer of 50 mm, then the fungi should be no shorter than 9-10 cm.

Fungi should go 4-5 cm into the wall. An inaccuracy was made in the figure - the mesh is glued on top of the fungus

One plate requires 5-6 fungi. In selected places, holes are drilled (drill 10 mm) 2-3 cm deeper than the length of the legs of the fungus. If the holes are made shorter, they become clogged with material dust and do not fully insert. The location of the fungi is one in the center of the plate and several at the joints. This position allows, when nailing the foam, to level the wall at the same time (pull the coal into the desired position).

The layout of the fungi when the facade is insulated with foam

A fungus is inserted into the drilled hole, then driven in with a hammer. His hat should lie tightly on the insulation. If it does not lie, we take it out, deepen the hole. Sometimes after a certain amount of installed fungi, they stop clogging. So the drill has worn off - it has become smaller in diameter - and it's time to change it.

We drive plastic dowels into fungi

The fungi are hammered so that the hat is slightly recessed in the foam - it goes somewhere by 1 mm. Then the consumption of glue on the leveling layer will be less. Styrofoam is easy to score, with expanded polystyrene (EPS) it is more difficult.

If there are two layers of insulation

If the required insulation thickness is more than 50 mm, but less than 100 mm, two layers are applied. In this case, one layer is glued, as described above, the sheets of the second are positioned so that they do not coincide with the joints of the first. When sticking the second layer, it is more convenient to apply glue to the sheet, and not to the wall. The joints of the first can not be rubbed or foamed - they will overlap.

If there is time, before applying the second layer, it is advisable to wait until the first one dries. If this is not possible, you can immediately glue the second one, but to a height of no more than 2 m, otherwise the sheets may move.

The seams of the first and second layers must not match.

We begin to nail the foam plastic with fungi after the glue has dried (the same 3 days). Just do not make a mistake by calculating the length of the fungus - the total thickness of the insulation + 1 cm for glue + 4-5 cm into the wall. The depth of the hole is another 2-3 cm more, the diameter is the same 10 mm. When the foam is nailed to the facade, you can move on.

Sealing joints and fungi

First, we level the section of the facade pasted over with foam. Often it turns out that the edges of the foam stick out somewhere. They can be cut with a clerical (wallpaper) knife. There are also special graters for foam. They are easy to level the surface. With EPPS, you can also try to do this, but only with a knife, and then it is cut badly. The work takes a lot of time, but it is worth spending time on it - this will greatly reduce the consumption of expensive compositions for subsequent layers of decoration.

Then, to prevent the ingress of cold air between the plates, the seams are overwritten. They take on a spatula the same composition with which the foam plastic was glued to the facade, fill the seams. If there are seams larger than 3 mm, we lay a narrow strip of insulation in them, then rub them with glue. You can fill the seam with mounting foam. Leave it for 4-5 hours, then cut off the excess with a knife and rub it with glue on top. The caps of the fungi are recessed, we also cover them, aligning them with the main surface.

Frayed foam seams

When grouting seams and caps, we try to make the surface even - the glue should not protrude. If you looked somewhere, after drying we take a grater, fasten sandpaper (grain 400-500) and level it. You just have to wait until it dries completely - once in wet glue, the emery is instantly clogged, it only needs to be changed (the mesh is not suitable for this work).

Reinforcement and plaster foam

Sometimes the insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam must be stretched for two seasons - left to overwinter at some stage. It can be left without harm to materials only after applying a leveling layer. Simply attached foam (EPS) cannot be left. It is recommended even packed in packs to keep indoors, and not on the street. So you can only stop after plastering.

Reinforcing mesh sticker on the corners

The mesh is used for facade, for outdoor work (the inner one will simply crumble from the glue). Density 140-160 gr/sq. m. First glue the corners. All corners are reinforced - both external and internal, and slopes. Important! From this point on, it is necessary to use a universal composition, and not the one on which the foam was glued. The glue is diluted a little thinner than indicated in the instructions - it should hold well on the spatula, but be easily squeezed through the mesh.

For reinforcement, you can use a ready-made corner with a mesh, you can cut strips from a roll (30 cm wide) and glue them. It is easier to work with a ready-made corner, cheaper - with a piece of mesh. If you make from a roll, cut strips across the roll, you will get pieces of a meter length. Fold them in half lengthwise and press the fold well with a spatula. It is necessary to fold so that the edges of the mesh are wrapped inward (it was also in a roll). If it turns out the other way around, they will stick out of the glue layer, it will be hard to work.

Mesh for reinforcing corners

In any case, the work is almost the same. A strip of mortar 6-7 cm wide and 2-3 mm thick is applied to the corner on both sides. If you glue not a finished corner, but bent strips of the grid, then the length of the area filled with mortar should be 5-7 cm shorter than the cut piece (93-95 cm).

An angle or a piece of a bent mesh is attached from above. Passing a spatula along the grid, we slightly press it into the glue. Herringbone movements - from top to bottom and to the side.

Approximately half of the mesh on the sides remains without glue. This is normal - it will be easier to join it with the foam reinforcement in the plane of the wall. Also, a strip at the top remains without glue if you glue from pieces. When sticking the next piece above, apply glue directly to this “empty” grid, cover it with the next piece from above. So the joint is the same thickness as the entire corner.

When forming a corner, we try to make it even. If it doesn’t work with an ordinary spatula, you can take an angular one (pictured above). It will not be difficult - just with one push to lead from top to bottom.

Styrofoam reinforcement on walls

Polyfoam and XPS are reinforced by applying a layer of plastic mesh, which is pressed into the adhesive (universal). The procedure is as follows:

Apply a layer of glue (universal composition) to the wall with a spatula (width not less than 350 mm). The width of the strip is 5-7 cm narrower than the mesh (the mesh is usually 100 cm wide).
Roll the mesh from top to bottom, so that 5-7 cm from one edge are free of glue.
They pass with a spatula along the grid, pressing it into the glue. Trying to make the surface even.
The grid is rolled out onto the laid layer of glue, pressed with a spatula into it
The second strip of glue is applied, starting from the "empty" mesh area. A new piece of reinforcement is superimposed close to the already laid one. It turns out at the junction of two layers of stacks, but the thickness of the glue is the same as on the rest of the wall.
It can be seen that part of the grid remains without solution

The glued mesh is left to dry. It should take at least half a day, or better - a day. After they take a grater with emery and smooth out all the bumps.

Styrofoam plaster (applying a leveling layer)

The technique of applying plaster on polystyrene foam is no different from the standard one (see here about wall plastering). The thickness of the leveling layer is determined based on the result of the previous work. If the previous layer was applied evenly, the leveling layer can be very thin - a few millimeters.

There is only a feature - the mixture should be slightly watery. A little thinner than when applying the grid. This consistency is easier to level.

The applied leveling layer is left to dry. Time depends on temperature and layer thickness. Wait until it dries completely, otherwise the emery will clog. By the way, at this stage it is better to use it already shabby - the surface will be smoother. There are some good scratches from the new one. This is critical if you plan to simply paint the facade further, and you can work with a new one under the application of decorative plaster.

This completes the insulation of the facade with foam plastic. Further - Finishing work. What they will be - you choose.

The video shows all the steps. There is only one mistake: when sticking the mesh, it rolls out onto the laid layer of glue, and not onto a dry wall. With this technology, as in the video, there is a high probability that the entire trim will fall along with the mesh.

Styrofoam is a packaging material unsuitable for insulation, and, nevertheless, most of our fellow citizens traditionally call polystyrene foam as a heat-insulating material.

We will not deviate from this tradition. Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade with foam plastic is the choice of most cottage owners. Consider which foam to choose for facade insulation, how to insulate the facade of the house with foam, so that the result of work will please for many years, giving comfort and a pleasant microclimate.

Types of foam

The construction market offers many different trade names for foam, but, in fact, there are fewer types of materials:

Styrofoam.
Extruded polystyrene foam.
Graphite-containing polystyrene foam.

You can insulate the facade with foam plastic using any of these types, but let's look at the features of each of them.

All foams have a cellular structure, but the manufacturing technology of materials is somewhat different, as a result, expanded polystyrene has an open cell structure, due to which it removes steam better, but works worse as a sound insulator, belongs to the G4 flammability group.

Extruded polystyrene foam has a closed cell structure, which makes it a good soundproof material, but worsens the vapor permeability index, flammability group G3.

Graphite-containing expanded polystyrene, like extruded polystyrene, has closed cells, thanks to the addition of graphite and silver, it acquires higher thermal insulation qualities, flammability group G2. It differs from ordinary polystyrene foam in a silver-black color, and it is dyed over the entire thickness of the plate, in contrast to the “Dalmatian” painted on top. This type of polystyrene foam is the only one unattractive to rodents.

Extruded and graphite-filled polystyrene foams contain fire retardants, which impart the property of self-extinguishing.

Actually, the foam for facade insulation is a non-pressing material, combustible, emitting toxic gas during combustion, absorbing moisture 9 times its volume, we will not consider in this article.

Characteristics of expanded polystyrenes are given in the table.

Advantages of expanded polystyrenes:

Durability.
Light weight.
Strength.
Excellent thermal insulation qualities.
Temperature range of application from -50 to +75°С.
Resistant to most chemicals.
Environmental friendliness.

Disadvantages of polystyrene foam:

Flammability.
Low vapor permeability.
Destruction by sunlight.
Rodent infestation.

Styrofoam for facade insulation is not resistant to all chemical compounds

Salt solution (brine, sea water)	+
Soap and wetting agent solution	+
Bleaches: hypochlorite, chlorine solutions or hydrogen peroxide	+
Acid solutions	+
Not concentrated hydrochloric acid (35%) or nitric acid (less than 50%)	+
Concentrated sulfuric acid, 100% formic acid	-
Caustic sodium, ammonia	+
Organic solvents: acetone, ether, benzene, xylene, trichlorethylene	-
Medical gasoline, white spirit	-
Paraffin oil, Vaseline	+ -
Diesel fuel	-
Petrol	-
Alcohols: methanol, ethanol	+ -
Silicone compounds	+
stable (regardless of duration of action)	+
conditionally stable (prolonged action leads to shrinkage or destruction of the surface layer)	+ -
unstable (shrinks or dissolves)	-

What kind of foam to insulate the facade should be chosen by the owner, however, in terms of price - quality, graphite-filled polystyrene foam is now in the lead, it is cheaper than extruded polystyrene with better performance than polystyrene foam without additives.

Foam application

Due to their excellent heat-insulating qualities, foam plastics are by far the most popular heat-insulating and sound-proofing material for facade insulation. Their low volume weight and no-skill insulation technology make them even more popular, despite some negative characteristics.

The scope of polystyrene foam is huge:

Insulation of the facade of the house on the plaster system (wet facade).
Wall insulation from the outside according to the ventilated facade system (dry facade).
Insulation of the walls of the room from the inside.
Roof insulation.
Floor insulation.
Warming of balconies and loggias.
Sound insulation of partitions.

The thickness of the foam layer required for insulation depends on the indicators:

area of construction of houses;
purpose of the building;
the location of the insulated structure (basement, basement, wall, roof, etc.);
insulation method;
material and thickness of the insulated structure;
characteristics of the heat insulator.

Averaged data on the thickness of thermal insulation with extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex®", depending on the city and construction, is given in the table:

When choosing the thickness of the insulation, it must be borne in mind that the use of expanded polystyrene with a thickness of less than 50 mm will not have an effect - such thermal insulation will not work.

"Wet facade"

The plaster system for insulating the facade of the house with foam plastic has long proved its worth. The first buildings insulated with foam plastic have been standing for more than 50 years without any complaints from the residents. Consider the process of facade insulation from all sides. Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade with foam plastic will require preliminary study, the purchase of materials and the involvement of assistants.

To perform the insulation of the facade with foam plastic using the wet method, materials will be required:

expanded polystyrene for walls and slopes of openings;
reinforcing alkali-resistant plastic mesh according to the size of the facades plus an additional layer to a height of 2 m;
adhesive composition from a dry building mix (CCC);
dowel screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head at the rate of 5-6 pcs. per 1m2 of insulation plus fixing the plinth, the length of the dowel is selected according to the thickness of the foam layer plus 70-100mm;
basement strip along the perimeter of the walls minus doorways, the width of the shelf along the thickness of the insulation layer;
plastic corners or a metal profile to protect the corners of the house and the inner corners of openings;
adhesive primer for walls;
finishing material - vapor-permeable paint and / or plaster for outdoor use.

To perform the insulation of facades with foam plastic, it is necessary to prepare tools and fixtures:

container for diluting the adhesive composition;
brushes, rollers, spatulas;
needle roller;
building level;
plumb;
drill with different nozzles;
knife or electric jigsaw for cutting foam boards;
hammer, metal scissors;
ladder;
scaffolding with a facade height of more than 4 m (can be rented).

Wet insulation of facades consists of a layer of insulation, a reinforcing mesh and an adhesive composition. If desired, a finishing finish in the form of a decorative plaster layer is added to these layers.

Warming technology

Work on the insulation of facades with expanded polystyrene is carried out in three stages - preparation, the main stage - insulation; final finishing.

Preparatory stage

On the facade, window sills, parapet slabs and cornice drips are dismantled. Since the thickness of the walls will increase after insulation, these elements will need to be made again. The facades are cleaned of dirt and old paint, the adhesion of the plaster layer (if any) to the base is checked.

Peeling plaster is knocked down, the surface is cleaned, primed with an adhesive primer, plastered again. In the absence of paint or plaster, the facade is washed, dried for 2-3 days, primed to improve adhesion and dried again. On the walls there should not be irregularities of more than 3 cm, deep masonry irregularities and chips must be leveled and primed again.

main stage

The temperature regime depends on the adhesive used. Work on insulation with most adhesive compositions from CCC can be carried out at t = +5 ... + 25 ° С. When using glue-foam for temporary fixing of boards, work can be performed even at -7°C.

On the walls, the position of the basement strip is marked according to the level, it should be attached 2 cm below the junction line of the wall and the foundation or 2-3 cm above the blind area. In the corners, the dropper is cut with scissors for metal so that the vertical part of the bar does not interfere correct installation heat insulator plates.

How to properly insulate the facade? Installation of foam boards is carried out in rows, from the bottom up, with a vertical seam spacing of at least 20 cm. The first row is mounted on a bar, which serves as protection against the penetration of rodents. On the foam slab around the perimeter, retreating 1.5-2 cm, apply glue, in the center of the slab, the glue is applied in strokes in a checkerboard pattern through 200-300 mm.

IMPORTANT: The glue should not get on the end of the plate - this is how it forms a cold bridge.

TIP: for better adhesion, pre-treat the back of the foam board with a spiked roller.

The plates are pressed against the wall and tapped with the handle of the tool. The seams between the plates should not be more than 3 mm, large seams are filled with scraps of insulation or mounting foam. In the process of work, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical installation with a level and a plumb line.

Having completed the temporary fixation of the plates with glue, they wait 2-3 days to gain strength with the composition, then they perform the main fixation with dowels: drill holes for the dowel-screws at the corners of the plates and 1-2 in the center. The dowel heads are sunk into the slab in order to avoid unevenness and reduce the thickness of the adhesive layer.

Excess and overlapping plates in the corners are cut off, the slopes of the openings are insulated. Facade corners of window and door openings, building corners and internal corners of openings require additional reinforcement with reinforcing mesh strips or special corners.

The reinforcing mesh is rolled out for 2-3 hours for alignment, the mesh is cut in sections, if necessary.

An adhesive composition is applied to the wall with a layer thickness of 3 ... 4 mm, the mesh is rolled out along the wall, embedded in the adhesive layer with a spatula, leveling the surface.

A second layer of adhesive is applied, a duplicate mesh layer is glued to a height of 2 m. The maturation period of the adhesive is determined by the manufacturer.

Facade finishing

After the glue dries, installation of window sill drains, droppers and other protective elements is carried out.

Finishing may include painting or decorative plastering, with or without subsequent painting.

Conclusion

The need for home insulation has not been disputed for a long time. Carry out home insulation on their own it is quite possible for a homeowner without building skills, the main thing is to study the technology and not violate the sequence of work.

The choice of materials is of great importance - they must be combined in order to guarantee joint work, and for this it is better to purchase a set of materials from one manufacturer. Large construction companies create insulation systems that provide reliable and long-term insulation of structures, including for insulating the facade with foam plastic with their own hands.

Heating a private house is an important cost item for owners of private houses. To reduce costs, you can insulate the facade of the building. Often foam is used for this task. The work has some difficulties, but you can do it yourself without any problems. The main thing is to get familiar with the technology. If you perform the correct insulation of the facade with foam, the house will be warm even in the coldest winters.

Styrofoam or Styrofoam

When insulating the facade, homeowners often cannot decide which material to choose: polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam? Both of these materials are made from the same base - polystyrene. However, each one is made differently. It is not worth going into the details of the process. The main thing is to know the main distinguishing features of such materials:

Styrofoam is more soft, it is able to absorb liquid, rodents and insects often settle in it. However, the cost of the material is quite low, given the high quality of insulation.
Extruded polystyrene foam is not able to absorb water, is not affected by insects and small rodents. Its disadvantage is the high cost. When insulating the facade of the house, it should be pre-treated (scratched).

One of the main advantages of extruded polystyrene foam can be considered the manufacture of plates with a quarter, which reduces the number of direct joints. As a result of cold bridges, less is obtained.

Important! The difference in the cost of popular materials is quite high - almost 2 times. This should be taken into account when choosing the right material.

Training

Before you start insulating the facade of the house with foam, you should start preparing the wall surfaces. They need to be not wet. Work on finishing the facade with foam plastic should also be started in warm time. If it rains, you need to wait about a week.

To prepare the surface of the walls for foam insulation, it is necessary to remove all coatings that do not adhere well. The old swollen plaster is beaten off, the paint is removed, the lime is cleaned. It is necessary that only what holds well remains.

A flat surface is a guarantee of reliable fastening of the foam. It is necessary that the plates lie on it without voids. Large cavities are filled with plaster mortar. It is allowed to have differences of no more than 1 cm per 1 sq. m.

Primer

To figure out how to insulate the facade of the house with foam, some tips will help. There is a rule how you can determine whether the walls need to be primed before gluing the foam. If the palm remains clean after running along the wall, it is not necessary to prime the surface. If there are traces of the old coating on the palm, it is better to prime. Thanks to this, the contact of the foam with the wall will be much better. Priming the surface can take a lot of time, and such an operation is quite simple. It does not require a major investment.

You should pay attention to the primer for facade work. The most popular are Ekomiks, Tokan and Stolit. From foreign it is worth highlighting the company Ceresit. The soil can be diluted, in accordance with the instructions. The solution is applied by sprayer or brush.

Insulation preparation

Polyfoam before installation does not require additional processing. This is due to its loose structure. If the facade is insulated with XPS, the surface of the material should not be smooth. To do this, it is scratched. Otherwise, after a while, the material may fall off.

When preparing polystyrene foam, a spiked roller for drywall is used. They should roll the surface of the material well. Alternatively, a wire brush can be used. With its help, you can make a lot of furrows on the plates. Such work will take a lot of time, but it will require little effort. When installing plates in two layers, they must be processed in this way on each side.

Finishing window sills and slopes with foam

Each additional element of the facade is mounted even before the installation of foam. It is important to take into account the additional thickness, which is formed due to the layer of insulation and exterior finish. If there are already installed slopes and window sills, they should be removed. Such elements will be short.

To create an organic look of windows, and joining various elements with a warming pie, each detail must have the following dimensions:

It is necessary that the window sill protrudes from the wall by 4 cm. With a thickness of the insulation material of 60 mm, the window sill is made 100 mm deep. When installing the window sill, it is necessary to fill all the voids. The gaps between the foam plates and the window sill are filled with mounting foam. After installation, the plastic element is pressed with something heavy, and left for 4 hours.
It is necessary that the slopes protrude about 1 cm beyond the wall surface. This will facilitate the installation of foam. The insulation material when finishing the slopes should have a maximum thickness of 30 mm. Otherwise, he will just climb onto the window.
Between the foam and the plinth, you need to install a low tide. This element is a strip of galvanized steel, which is powder coated. It is installed on the plinth, fixing it with self-tapping screws. Dowels can be used for fastening. The distance between the fasteners is left at 20 cm. The ebb is sold in pieces of two meters. This element must be installed on the window opening so that the moisture that flows down the wall does not flow inside the house. At low tide, it flows into the street.

As you can see, the preparation of the facade of the building before insulation requires quite a lot of effort and time.

Foam mounting technology

To get a high-quality result, when mounting the foam on the walls, it is first glued and then nailed. This technology allows you to make the layer of insulation as reliable as possible. Installation of panels starts from the left corner. To understand the sequence of work and the features of the installation of foam, it is worth watching a few videos.

Tools and materials

To stick the foam, you need two spatulas. One should be about 100mm wide and the other about 200mm. A narrow tool is designed to collect glue from a container. To cut the foam boards, you will need to use a saw with fine teeth. You still need to prepare the glue. You should choose a special composition. On the packaging with the material it should be indicated - "for polystyrene foam boards".

This glue has two varieties:

Universal adhesive, used not only when installing insulation boards. It is also used in finishing work.
Composition intended only for gluing polystyrene to the facade.

If you need to save money, you should purchase two compositions for different tasks. This is due to the very high price of universal glue. With the participation of glue, the following work is performed:

gluing polystyrene to the facade;
lubrication of joints of insulation boards;
lubrication of mounting fungi.

Works carried out with universal glue:

creating a leveling layer;
gluing the mesh to the corners of the facade.

The consumption of each composition is approximately the same. It is equal to 5 kg per 1 sq. m. You can reduce consumption if the walls were smooth before installing the foam boards. The consumption of the composition per leveling layer depends on how evenly the insulation is fixed.

After gluing the polystyrene boards, they must be fixed on the dowels. For this, special products in the form of fungi are used - with a long stem and a wide hat. Steel dowels are inserted into plastic molds. If the insulation is made with polystyrene foam, it is better to choose plastic dowels. They are not able to conduct cold, have less weight and are cheaper. In addition, the load on the facade is reduced.

To install the fungi in the foam, you will need to have a hammer and a drill. To apply a leveling layer, you will need to use a wide spatula. To sand the leveling layer, you should use a plastic float and sandpaper.

Technique for gluing polystyrene to walls

First you need to dilute the adhesive composition. The method of closing it is described in the instructions of each manufacturer. It is easier and more convenient to stir the composition with a drill with a mixer nozzle. It is better if the glue is a little thicker than recommended. Therefore, water should be added less than it is written in the instructions. Subsequently, the consistency of the solution can be adjusted based on the desired state of the solution.

In the case of an uneven wall, the adhesive should be applied to the wall. In this case, irregularities are corrected much easier.

The solution is laid on the walls with cakes. They should have a diameter of about 10 cm. It is not necessary to make them the same. Glue is laid out along the perimeter of the plate with a roller. It should be 4 cm from the edge of the panels. After laying out the glue, the foam is applied to the wall and pressed down. Adhesive laid around the perimeter of the boards may protrude from the joints. It needs to be eliminated. Subsequently, there will be no difficulties with leveling the surface of walls finished with foam.

There is a second common technique. Glue when using this method is applied to the foam. This work is done with a notched trowel. However, this method is suitable for flat facades.

When installing the second row, the foam panels must be laid out in such a way that the joints are not continuous. In this case, the masonry resembles brick. All the following rows of foam are laid in a similar way. After pasting the facade with foam plastic, it must be left for three days. This time is necessary for the complete drying of the adhesive solution on which the foam is mounted.

The work can be facilitated by sticking the foam in parts. First you need to completely glue one section of the facade. It is necessary to do all the work for a certain territory of the facade in a certain sequence - part of the work will have to be done from the ground, part - from the scaffolds. This will allow less effort to be spent on moving the foam panels. This method has another significant plus - open sheets of expanded polystyrene will be less time exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Styrofoam nailing

After the glue has completely dried, the foam plates are nailed to the wall with fungal dowels. Their length is chosen in accordance with the thickness of the insulation. About 5 cm is added to this indicator. It is to this depth that the fungus should sink into the wall. When choosing foam plastic 50 mm thick, it is necessary to choose dowels of at least 90 mm.

Important! The reinforcement mesh must be mounted over the fungi.

One foam board is installed on a minimum of 5 fungi. Holes must be drilled at the mounting points for fasteners. Their depth should be 4 cm more than the length of the fungi. If you make the holes smaller, the dust will clog the dowels and interfere with their proper installation. Fungi should be placed in a certain way - in the center and at the joints of the foam panels. Thanks to this placement of the dowels, not only the insulation boards are installed, but the surface of the wall is also leveled.

A fungus is inserted into the hole in the foam, drilled for fasteners. Then it must be driven in with a hammer. They clog it in such a way that the hat lies tightly on the insulation. If it does not lie, it is necessary to remove the dowel and deepen the hole. At a certain time, the fungi stop clogging. This is a sign of a clogged drill.

The cap of the fungus is buried in the slab by 1 mm. In this case, the consumption of glue, which is needed for the alignment layer, will be less. Nailing extruded polystyrene foam is more difficult than styrofoam.

Sealing joints and attachment points

Before further finishing, the facade, upholstered with foam, must be leveled. To do this, inspect the wall for protruding edges of the plates. They are usually cut off. For this purpose, there are special graters. This kind of work will take quite a lot of time.

To exclude cold bridges between the plates, joints should be sealed with strips of insulation. They are covered with glue used for mounting foam panels. A spatula is used to apply the adhesive. The seams can also be sealed with mounting foam, only after drying you will have to cut off the excess. Recessed mushroom caps are also sealed with adhesive.

Important! When grouting caps and seams, the surface should be made as even as possible. The adhesive should not protrude to the surface.

Reinforcement and plastering

Styrofoam, even for storage, should not be left on the street in an open pack. Therefore, after mounting on the facade, the slabs should be finished by creating a leveling layer. Simply fixed foam can deteriorate. In some cases, insulation of facades with foam plastic is carried out in two seasons. However, before winter, the insulation should be plastered.

Before that, a mesh is attached to the surface of the foam. First you need to glue the corners. It is necessary to reinforce both internal and external. Do not forget about slopes. You can understand how to insulate the facade with polystyrene foam, based on the above tips.

Important! At this stage of work, it is necessary to apply a universal composition.

Then the surface is plastered. Now the insulation will be well preserved during the onset of a cold winter.