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Indoor plants: identify problems by leaves. Indoor plants: leaves turn yellow and fall - what to do? Indoor flower sheds leaves what to do

Winter is a difficult time even for most people, what can we say about such delicate creatures as houseplants. Why are the leaves falling, you ask? Most likely, after all, you are doing something wrong, but there are reasons beyond the control of the owners indoor plants.

Four reasons for the winter "leaf fall"

Lack of light. Daylight hours are much reduced and plants, of course, suffer from this. In addition, even the very noon does not promise to be sunny, because the autumn winter period- this is most often cloudy weather, rain or snow.
Overmoistening of the soil. The thing is that photosynthesis is provided by light, water and carbon dioxide. If at least one component is missing, the level of photosynthesis decreases. Therefore, if the plant does not have enough light, a lot of water simply harms it.
Pests and fungal diseases. This is exactly what can kill a plant, even with normal care. Whether it is septoria or spider mites, it can get into the house with purchased or donated, that is, with brought plants. Since a person is more susceptible to colds in winter time- plants also require special attention in conditions of increased risk.
Heat and draft. If the plant first turns yellow leaves, and then completely falls off - take a closer look, maybe it is standing on the windowsill between a hot battery and a cold window.

After finding out why houseplants can shed their leaves, the next question arises. Namely, what is proper care to prevent sudden leaf fall? Everything is very simple! To protect home plants, you need to build on the above reasons. Plus, remember what is different from summer.

How to care for plants correctly?

Watering just the way the plant needs: not as it suits you, not when it seems to you that the earth has already dried up and you need to moisten it, not just all the plants in a crowd. Take the trouble to learn about the mode of watering each of your green miracles in a pot, and if you forgot to water it on time, do not rush to fill it with water, because drying out is not as harmful as root rotting due to abundant watering.
If the plant suddenly starts shedding leaves - isolate him from the rest, try to diagnose the disease by signs (you can always find them on the Internet) and process desired insecticide or fungicide. Later it will be better to carry out a transplant.
Bet plants where they will be comfortable, and not where there is a place. Avoid too dry or warm air and, of course, draft.

The rules for caring for indoor plants are perfectly demonstrated on a video from YouTube:

Houseplants, like all living things on earth, getting into an unfavorable habitat, they begin to react to these destructive influences for them. Plants begin to experience inconvenience, suffer and get sick. All plants are peculiar, some like a lot of sun, other plants, on the contrary, an excess of sun is detrimental and they prefer shade. Some plants like wet soil, while others find wet soil uncomfortable.

When growing indoor plants in an apartment, you can notice that the plants appear different kind problems and diseases. Either the leaf withered, then the bud fell off, then the leaves turn yellow, then the leaves fall on the plants. And it seems that there is no reason for this, because you take care of them, water them, and indoor plants sometimes still feel bad and for this reason they begin to experience discomfort, shock and illness. This article will describe the most common diseases of indoor plants. The causes of these diseases and methods for their solution will be considered. Such knowledge will help to make comfortable living conditions for plants, and indoor plants will feel good and cozy in the apartment, delighting with abundant flowering and beauty.

Diseases of indoor plants. The most common diseases of indoor plants, their causes and ways to solve problems with indoor flowers.

The leaves curl up and fall off. You can often see that, it would seem, for no reason, in indoor plants, the leaves curl up and fall off. This can happen with indoor plants for several reasons. Indoor plants lack heat, or they are affected by cold drafts. The leaves of indoor plants can curl up and fall off even when the soil is waterlogged - frequent watering or poor drainage. The presence of one or more of these causes leads to the loss of leaves in houseplants.

Leaves turn yellow and fall off. As the plant grows and develops, over time, in adult plants, the leaves turn yellow naturally and then the leaves fall off. As a rule, this happens with the lower leaves of adult plants, and this is normal and natural. If several leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall off at the same time, and not only the lower leaves fall off, then the most likely cause of such a massive yellowing and falling of leaves in a houseplant will be either waterlogging of the soil or the presence of cold drafts.

The leaves suddenly fall off. Sometimes you can observe a rapid and sudden fall of the leaves of indoor plants without a preliminary long period of natural wilting of the leaves and loss of their color. If this happens to a houseplant, then this is evidence of a shock suffered by the plant. The plant experiences such a shock with a significant temperature difference, both with a sharp increase in temperature and with a sharp decrease in temperature, and the shock can also be caused by a strong and cold draft. The plant will experience shock even with a significant and sharp increase in daytime light intensity. In addition to the reasons listed above, the sudden fall of leaves in indoor plants, especially tree-like indoor plants, may be a lack of moisture in the soil and drying out of the soil in the horses of the plant.

Leaves fall on new plants. For plants that have been recently transplanted or just purchased, as well as for plants that have been moved from one room to another, there is a natural loss of leaves - the leaves fall off. As a rule, these are 1-2 lower leaves of the plant, which are lost when the environment and habitat of the plant change. There is nothing to worry about when the leaves fall and this is normal. However, the shock of such plants from a change of scenery can be alleviated to some extent by using a pot only slightly larger than the previous pot when transplanting houseplants. And when transferring a plant from a store home, as well as in cases when transferring a plant from a place with poor lighting to a place with bright lighting, you should cover the plant from bright light for several days in the shade or partial shade, thereby saving the plant from a sharp change in illumination and bright light. Such a smooth intermediate movement of the plant for several days will favorably affect its adaptation to a new habitat. Transplanting indoor plants into a larger flower pot.

The lower leaves dry up and fall off. This can happen with indoor plants for several reasons. There can be 3 probable reasons for the drying and falling of the lower leaves of indoor plants. This is caused either by a lack of light received by the plant in its habitat, or too high ambient temperature, or insufficient watering of the plant.

The upper leaves remain elastic, but at the same time turn yellow. This premature yellowing of the upper leaves of the plant is caused by the high calcium content in the soil of the plant's pot. This happens with those plants that do not tolerate the presence of lime in the soil, or its excess, and such yellowing of the leaves can be caused by the hardness of the water for irrigation.

Falling buds or flowers. Most often, the reasons for such abscission of buds or flowers in a houseplant are the same reasons why leaves fall in plants. As a rule, this is caused by insufficient watering of plants, dryness of the surrounding air, lack of light received by the plant, as well as moving the plant pot from one place to another. In addition to the above reasons, the buds and flowers of indoor plants may fall off due to damage to the plant, buds or flowers by various pests.

Flowers fade quickly. You can also observe such a picture as the flowers that appeared on a houseplant suddenly quickly fade. As a rule, insufficient watering of the plant, dryness of the surrounding air, too high air temperature, as well as a lack of light received by the plant contribute to the rapid withering of the flowers of a houseplant.

The variegated leaves of the plant become solid green. The reason for the loss of color by the leaves is the lack of light received by the plant. In this case, the pot with the plant should be placed closer to the window, or moved to a new place with more intense lighting. As for leaves that have lost their variegation in color, if possible, such leaves and shoots should be removed if this does not have a detrimental effect on the future life of the plant.

Drooping, sluggish leaves of the plant. The leaves of the plant become sluggish for several reasons. Often the leaves wither when the soil dries out, with insufficient watering. Leaves can also wither if the soil is excessively waterlogged, with frequent watering, or with poor drainage. In addition to the reasons listed above, leaves can droop with excess light, especially if the leaves droop in the middle of the day. Too high temperatures and dry air can also cause leaves to droop. The leaves may droop and due to insufficient space in the pot, the pot has become cramped. Also, the leaves can wilt due to the activity of pests.

The plant grows slowly or does not grow at all. If the growth of a houseplant slowed down in winter and late autumn, then you should not worry, this is normal for all plants. In winter, all plants noticeably slow down their growth, or even completely stop it. But if this happens to the plant in summer or spring, then the probable reasons for slowing down the growth of the plant may be insufficient lighting, or a noticeable lack of minerals in the soil, or excessive waterlogging of the soil. If the reasons listed above are excluded, then most likely the pot has become cramped for the plant. During the growth of the plant, its underground part also develops - root system. The roots of the plant take up all the space in the pot and lack freedom. In this case, transplanting the plant into a larger pot will help, or removing part of the plant along with the root system and, if possible, replacing the earth in the pot. This will give the plant an impetus for further growth and development.

Leaves and stems rot. Rotting leaves and stems in indoor plants is the cause of the disease that occurs when the plant is kept in poor conditions. One of common causes the appearance of such a disease is excessive waterlogging of the soil in winter, or water falling on the leaves during irrigation, which remains on the leaves overnight.

Dots or spots on leaves. A variety of dots and spots on the leaves of indoor plants can appear for various reasons. If the dots or spots on the leaves are dry and brown, then one of the most possible causes most likely is a lack of soil water. If affected soft spots appear on the leaves that have a dark brown color, then most likely this is waterlogging of the soil. If the spots or dots on the leaves are white or yellowish, then this is usually caused by the use when watering plants. cold water, the ingress of cold water on the leaves of the plant, the defeat of the leaves of the plant by aerosols, either by strong rays of sunlight, or by diseases caused by pests. If the affected areas on the leaves of the plant become wet, become like a blister, or dry and look like dents, then the cause of such damage to the leaves is a disease. Leaf spotting of the plant can also be caused by some pests.

The brown tips or edges of the leaves dry out. One of the most likely causes of drying of the tips and edges of the leaves of a plant is dry air. It is also quite common for the tips and edges of the plant's leaves to dry out due to physical damage. This happens when in contact with the window, or when they are pressed against the wall, or when they often touch the tips of the leaves with their hands and fingers. Yellow or brown leaf edges can appear for many reasons. Yellow or brown leaf edges indicate waterlogging of the soil, or, on the contrary, insufficient watering. The edges of the leaves become yellow or brown in the same way with a lack of light, or vice versa with excessive and abundant lighting. Also, yellow or brown edges of the leaves are formed at too low air temperatures, as well as at too high air temperatures, with dry air or due to drafts. In addition to the reasons listed above, yellow or brown leaf edges in plants may appear due to an excess of minerals.

Torn edges and holes in the leaves. Perhaps most often, such damage to the leaves of plants appears due to physical damage to the plants. These can be adults, children, pets, or simply careless and inaccurate handling of indoor plants, when transplanting, transferring or watering a plant. Sometimes even a simple accidental touch on a sheet that has not yet been unfolded can damage it quite badly. Pests can also damage the leaves of the plant.

White crust on a ceramic pot. Sometimes it can be observed on ceramic flower pot white crust, such a kind of plaque. There may be 2 reasons for the appearance of such a white crust on the pot. This is either the use of too hard water when watering indoor plants, or it may be an excess of minerals.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot. On ceramic pots, a green coating may form over time. A green coating is a sure sign of problems that are associated with watering plants. Such a green coating occurs due to excessive waterlogging of the soil or with poor drainage. Water stagnates in a pot and such a green coating forms.

Lack of light, absence fresh air, its excessive dryness, draft, a sharp temperature drop, overdrying of the soil or excessive watering, lack or excess of nutrients - all this leads to the oppression of plants, causes not only their disease state, but also creates favorable conditions for pests and diseases.

Very often, mainly from novice flower growers, you can hear the question: “I don’t know what the flower is dying from, what should I do?

For example, wilting of leaves when they hang with limp rags occurs for several reasons:

waterlogging of the soil,
soil drying,
heatwave.

It is possible to determine whether the plant was overdried or flooded by the state of the earthy coma (see below). And heat damages potted plants when the thermometer rises from 38 to 45 degrees. Some plants can tolerate higher temperatures (succulents), and many die.

If the leaves do not hang with rags, but simply dry and fall off, a third reason is added - pests. Pests or diseases, in general, can also be identified with some effort (see pests) - by comparing them from photographs (the section contains photos of worms, scale insects, thrips, ticks, etc.)

If the soil seems neither too dry nor too wet, no pests are found, then you will have to remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots (there may be pests on the roots). If, upon examination, it turns out that the healthy roots of the plant fill the entire earthen lump, then the depressed state is associated with a lack of nutrition, the plant should be transplanted into large pots with fresh earth. If it turns out that the roots are sluggish or begin to rot, then again it is necessary to transplant the plant, removing the affected areas of the roots. When examining an earthen coma, it may turn out that it is overdried, in which case measures must be taken to evenly moisten the plant.

When the earth ball and roots are in order, then the cause should be sought in the lack of light or dry air. In the first case, the plant should be moved closer to the light, in the second, regular spraying should be carried out, and in addition, in winter, batteries central heating hang with wet towels. Finally, you need to pay attention to the appearance of the plant. Is the cause of the depression caused by pollution of the leaves, for example, with dust, as a result of which the respiratory processes are disturbed.

Some growers have good habit once a week (or at least a month) give the plants a bath in the shower. It is even better to wipe the leaves with a soft sponge. This procedure has a very beneficial effect on the condition of indoor flowers.

To prevent thrips, spider mite, all kinds of worms, aphids, as well as pathogenic fungi, you need to not only wash or bathe the plants more often, but also periodically use Persian chamomile (feverfew) or tobacco for washing.

Here are the most frequent problems, which, probably, everyone who grew flowers encountered:

This photo shows a plant (maidenhair) affected by too dry indoor air. In this case, the tips of the leaves first become dry, dry brown spots leaves turn yellow and die. The lower leaves also fall off and dry. The photo shows the "heavy stage" of damage from dry air. Most often, when the air humidity is not much higher than normal, the matter is limited to dry leaf tips (in large plants, such as dieffenbachia, scindapsus), and in small-leaved plants, in addition, the drying of several leaves.

If the earth was waterlogged, then at the same time a very wet earthy lump, yellowed lower leaves. In addition, if measures are not taken, the leaves lose their color, become lethargic and translucent, then the roots and stems rot and the plant dies - this is already when the plant is flooded. Very often, when waterlogged, the leaves suddenly turn yellow and fall off. Waterlogging of the soil, coupled with high air humidity, is dangerous because crusty growths appear on the leaves of plants - a disease called dropsy.

If the plant is dehydrated, then the earthen ball is overdried, the leaves lose turgor, the leaves dry up and fall off. If the soil is very dry, then watering can be difficult, because. water will not absorb well. In this case, it is best to submerge the entire pot in a bowl of warm water until the soil is moist.

Another common problem is sunburn. Not all plants tolerate direct sunlight, with prolonged exposure to the sun, burns appear on their leaves, the degree of damage depends on the time spent in the sun. If this happens, you can only remove the damaged leaves and continue to shade the plants during hot, sunny hours.

The upper leaves remain elastic, but turn yellow. Most likely, this is an increased content of calcium in the soil, which is characteristic of some plant species. Water the plant with softer water, such as rain or melted snow.

Leaves turn yellow and fall off. The natural change of leaves is characteristic of most plants, but if they fall in large numbers, then this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil or a cold draft.

Old leaves turn yellow - in summer due to a lack of macronutrients or overdrying, in winter - due to lack of light or high temperature at night.

Dots or spots on leaves.
If the dots or spots on the leaves are dry, then most likely this is from a lack of water, if soft, then due to waterlogging of the soil.
Light spots on the leaves - the likelihood that the plant or was watered too much cold water, or has been sunburnt, or is affected by disease or pests.
If the spots on the leaves are weeping and swollen, then this is a disease (see diseases)

The leaves curl up and fall off. This happens when there is a lack of heat, waterlogging of the soil, or if the plant has fallen under a cold draft.

Twisting and wrinkling of the leaves can be caused by the sudden action of chlorine, with a lack of magnesium, potassium, fluorine in the soil - in old leaves; young people have a lack of molybdenum, boron, copper, magnesium.

The sudden fall of the leaves, when they do not even have time to turn yellow - is usually associated with the shock state of the plant, caused by a sharp change in some conditions (this happens during acclimatization of a plant that has just been bought), a sharp temperature drop, watering with cold water, a cold draft , a sharp increase in the intensity of lighting during the daytime. Sudden dropping of leaves in tree-like plants (eg citrus) can be caused by drying out of the soil.

Brown tips or edges of leaves. If they are dry, the most likely cause is too dry air, or it could be the result of physical damage, such as contact with glass. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, then this may be due to waterlogging of the soil or lack of watering; too weak or too strong lighting; too high or too low air temperature; excess minerals, dry air or cold drafts. And it can also be when the plant is poisoned with chlorine or potassium starvation. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

The stems of the plant are exposed from the base - with an acute lack of lighting. In this case, only the tips of the shoots can remain normally leafy. This can happen at any time of the year, and if it is not possible to move the plant closer to the window or on the windowsill, then additional lighting will have to be connected. Otherwise, the plant may die.

Drooping leaves - when the soil dries up or becomes waterlogged, with an excess of light, especially if the leaves droop at certain times of the day, when the sun is at its most intense. Also, drooping leaves can be caused by dry air or pests. In addition - chronic acute lack of potassium, magnesium, copper, excess calcium or hard water. In some plants, this happens due to a sharp change in location.
Buds or flowers fall most often due to dry air, lack of light, insufficient watering, when the plant is moved from place to place and when it is damaged by pests, as well as with excess nitrogen. Flowers quickly wither with a lack of watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature, excess nitrogen and general starvation.
The lower leaves dry up and fall off, most likely due to lack of light, or too high air temperature, or lack of watering.
The leaves turn pale - mostly when the light is too abundant, and this can also be caused by spider mites.
The tips of the leaves turn yellow - an excess of calcium, insufficient watering.
Yellow-brown staining of the leaves - watering with hard water or chlorinated water.
Pale green color of leaves to whitish, mosaic leaves - lack of iron, copper or sulfur in the soil.
Light green leaves, and the veins on them are green - an excess of chlorine or calcium in the water; general starvation with a lack of nitrogen and iron; inconsistency of soil acidity; root disease; damage to the roots by a nematode; In the summer this happens with an excess of light.
Variegated leaves become monochromatic green - with a lack of light or with an excess of nitrogen in the soil.
Leaves and stems rot - with diseases caused by poor conditions, most often waterlogging of the soil.
Glassy discharge on the leaves, brown, partially dry spots - unfavorable moisture conditions, excessive watering, high humidity, lack of fresh air, low temperature or lack of light.
The plant grows slowly or not at all. For all plants, there is a dormant period in autumn and winter, when it does not grow or grows, but very slowly.
If this happens in spring or summer, then the reason may be a lack of minerals, and insufficient lighting, and waterlogging of the soil.
Elongated stems with small leaves - this phenomenon is more often observed in winter or in early spring due to lack of lighting at too high an air temperature. If the stems are pulled out in the summer during the growth period, then most likely this is a lack of minerals or a lack of lighting.
The plant does not flower. In general, the flowering of plants is such a complicated thing - some bloom even with poor care, while others, no matter how hard you try, do not bloom and that's it. But more often than not, this is due to a lack of lighting or a short daylight hours. Other reasons may be a violation of the dormant period, an excess of minerals, dry air, thrips (dinner buds) or transplantation (some plants bloom only in a cramped pot).
Short flower stalks - watering regime is violated (excess or lack of moisture), incorrect fertilizing regimen, lack of fluorine, general starvation of the plant, late transplantation in autumn, discrepancy soil mixture for this plant, strong fluctuations in temperature, excess heat during the growth of buds, incorrect maintenance during the dormant period.
Green coating on a ceramic pot or with inside on the plastic pot- a sign of waterlogging of the soil (usually with poor drainage).
White crust on a ceramic pot or on the surface of the earth - with an excess of minerals or watering the plant with too hard water.

If you find any signs of the above, then in order to finally determine what caused this state of the plant, look at the encyclopedia and re-read the care tips. As you have already noticed, the same state of a plant can have many different causes, sometimes it is generally impossible to know what the plant is suffering from (for example, viral diseases are very difficult to determine), but knowing the conditions that the plant needs will make it much easier to establish the cause. .

Sometimes a plant is simply forgotten to be transplanted in the spring, and it is recommended to replant it every year. In general, this is a very common mistake of indoor flower growers - to forget to transplant the plant when it is supposed to. Many do not consider this necessary, or instead of transplanting, they feed the plant, which is wrong. And some transplant plants into completely unsuitable land for it.

If you have not found the answer to the question: why do the leaves of your plant turn yellow, then we suggest that you ask it on the "Diseases and Pests" forum in the "" topic.

Many houseplant problems are easier to prevent than to fix. And this rule especially applies to care: an individual approach to pets, careful observance of the watering and fertilizing regimen, control of the degree of drying of the substrate guarantee the plants the preservation of both health and attractiveness. The loss of leaves by indoor plants, even if it is partial, is a problem after which an attractive appearance is not restored as quickly as we would like. Most often, it is associated with improper watering, although in some cases other factors also cause this problem.

The loss of leaves by houseplants is different

Leaf shedding in indoor plants is a common and serious problem. Along with dry tips, loss of color and spots on the leaves, it most of all affects the attractiveness of the plant. But unlike other problems, sometimes it can be solved quite simply, especially if you do not hesitate. Of course, with significant baldness, the release of new leaves and the growth of the old crown sometimes requires a very long period. But the struggle itself is not so difficult.

Most often, flower growers encounter this phenomenon during the winter. The discrepancy between typical room conditions and the parameters required by the plant, a sharp reduction in light, drafts, the need to adjust the frequency of watering only increase the risk of leaf fall (as well as the appearance of any other problem). But you can meet this phenomenon at other times of the year, even on plants that look like they are actively growing.

Usually, leaf fall is considered a problem of the same type, but in fact it can be very different. Depending on the accompanying phenomena, the following varieties of this phenomenon are distinguished:

rapid, or massive fall of foliage without other changes;
dropping the lower leaves;
falling leaves after twisting;
falling leaves after yellowing;
partial shedding of foliage in newly acquired plants.

Oddly enough, all these types of subsidence are caused by different reasons and demand different approach to corrective care. The factors that cause leaf loss depend on the frequency of watering, and on the location, and on the age of the plant, and even on the form of its growth.

Rapid leaf fall on houseplants

Rapid shedding of foliage, including young leaves, sharp crown exposure is typical only for deciduous shrubs and trees (figs, pomegranates, etc.) and is rare in room culture. The leaves of both tuberous and bulbous plants (amaryllis, gloxinia, begonia, zephyranthes, oxalis, etc.) fall off during the transition to the dormant stage, but this is rather an exception to the rule. If your plant abruptly sheds leaves and does not belong to the listed categories, then there can be only one reason - the plant has experienced a strong traumatic factor, a sharp change in conditions. For such exposure, it is necessary to really radically violate the rules of care. The factors that caused such a fall can be:

rearrangement of a shade-loving plant in direct sunlight;
temperature difference of 10 or more degrees (in any direction);
a draft with an icy or frosty wind;
complete drying of the substrate in woody plants when installed in a hot place.

Falling leaves of houseplants after folding

This type of abscission is caused by a systemic violation of conditions that are comfortable for the plant in the direction of an undesirable decrease in temperature and an increase in humidity. It is called:

using too much water that stagnates in the substrate;
decrease in air temperature compared to the recommended (not short-term);
drafts for plants that are very afraid of them.

Falling leaves of houseplants after yellowing

For indoor shrubs and fast-growing crops, the gradual yellowing and shedding of old leaves is natural, occurs as they grow, and is not considered a sign of serious health problems. But the massive yellowing of the foliage, followed by the same massive dropping of them, indicates a serious blunder in care. This type of fall is caused by the following factors:

waterlogging of the soil for non-hygrophilous species;
placement in a constant cold draft for sensitive plants.

Drying and falling of the lower leaves of indoor plants

This process is not natural. Insufficient conditions lead to it, as a result of which the plant is forced to get rid of the lowest leaves in order to preserve the rest. This phenomenon is caused by factors opposite to waterlogging and hypothermia:

keeping in the heat, in temperatures exceeding the recommended by more than 5 degrees;
very poor lighting for photophilous plants;
constant drying of the soil in moisture-loving species.

Loss of leaves on newly purchased houseplants

As a rule, partial fall of foliage in this case is always associated with a sharp change in conditions due to the move. Plants did not go through gradual adaptation and perceived the lighting or temperatures as "shock" in the new place. If the dropping of foliage is not massive, then there is nothing to worry about. Over time, the plant will recover and get used to it. But it’s better to ask carefully when buying about the conditions under which the crops grew and provide at least an intermediate option with a soft transition so as not to lose a single leaf.

The first thing to analyze is watering

Dropping the leaves of a houseplant in most cases is associated with improper watering. And it is by analyzing what mistakes you could have made that you need to start searching for both the source of the problem and its solution. Regardless of whether there are other factors that may have caused the leaf loss process, always consider this factor carefully.

Houseplants are watered not as conveniently, and even more so - not when they want, and not even with a certain “correct” interval, but as they need it. To find the right treatment schedule for each particular plant, you need to study the recommendations and make a table. You can attach tags or short notes to plants that are different from most (for example, colored labels). Most indoor plants have similar requirements, and you can work out your own watering system without spending too much time. But general directives will not replace an individual approach: before pouring water on the substrate, check how dry it is. Perhaps due to the combination of temperature and lighting at a particular time of the year, the soil dries out more slowly or faster, and accordingly the plant needs a different frequency of procedures. During the dormant period, the frequency of watering for all plants is adjusted according to the rate of drying of the substrate and their need for a dormant stage. But even for flowering plants, watering is still reduced. Check the information for a specific plant and compare if your watering matches their needs. Any deviation, in any direction, is a serious factor in leaf loss.

Other factors that can cause houseplant leaf drop include:

incorrect wintering temperature;
lack of lighting correction in winter;
dry air;
depleted soil;
late or unnecessary plant transplant;
replanting with soil replacement instead of transshipment;
scarce or excessive feeding;
incorrect water characteristics;
type of substrate that does not correspond to the type of plant;
exposure to heating devices;
the appearance of pests on the plant (including soil ones);
accumulation of dust on the leaves and pollution around the plant;
backlight for plants that can only grow in natural light.

How to stop houseplants from losing leaves

The strategy for dealing with leaf fall directly depends on the cause of this phenomenon. Eliminate the unfavorable factor - and your plant will again delight you only with growing, and not falling leaves. So, in drafts, you need to rearrange the culture, with too bright light - install screens, adjust the frequency of watering according to the rate of drying of the substrate, change the room at the wrong temperature, etc.

If houseplant leaf loss is caused by pests or diseases, the strategy is quite different:

the plant must be immediately isolated from the rest of the collection;
if possible (if the leaves are not pubescent and we are talking about pests), carry out mechanical processing - washing with soapy water, showering;
treat the plant with biological products;
if the problem is neglected, apply insecticides or fungicides, the action of which is aimed at specific pests or fungi, and if soil pests are affected, carry out an emergency transplant.

To solve the problem, the probable causes of this phenomenon are determined, there are several of them:

Unsuccessful transplant;
Improper watering;
Insufficient air humidity;
lack of light;
Excess or lack of fertilizers;
drafts;
Sunburn;
Pests;
Diseases.

All these reasons can lead to yellowing and leaf fall in a home rose.

Reason 1. Unsuccessful transplant

After purchase, a room rose should not be transplanted immediately - it needs time to adapt. The air in the living room is drier than in the store, and in winter, radiators are also included.

Reason 2. Wrong watering

Yellowing in the middle of the leaf, along the veins of a home rose often occurs due to drying out or waterlogging of the soil. Overdried earth, the appearance of a crust with cracks on the top layer is a clear sign of a lack of moisture.

When the soil is waterlogged, watering is temporarily stopped, replacing it with spraying. It is necessary to water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 1-2 cm. Settled water is used for irrigation.
The frequency of humidification depends on the season. In summer, roses require regular, plentiful watering.
Watering is gradually reduced after the end of flowering, brought to the winter months up to 1 time in 7 days.
In the spring, watering is increased after a sufficient number of leaves have blossomed.

Reason 3. Insufficient air humidity

Miniature house roses need high humidity.

Reason 4. Rose leaves may turn yellow due to lack of light.

For comfortable growth and successful flowering, a room rose needs to be in the sun for 5-6 hours. For this, a western or southwestern window is suitable. On the southern windows, due to an excess of direct sunlight, rosebuds quickly bloom and also quickly wither. North windows are not suitable due to lack of light.

It is worth talking about lighting problems when the foliage turns yellow from the shaded side.
For uniform formation of the crown, the bush is turned to the light in different directions.
In the spring and summer, it is advisable to take out a pot of roses to the loggia, balcony, where the amount of light is sufficient for the harmonious growth of the flower.
Even better, plant a flower in open ground or dig into the ground along with the pot. There he can easily endure even exposure to direct sunlight.

Reason 5. Too much or too little fertilizer

Yellowing of the leaves of a room rose can be triggered by an excess or lack of fertilizer. Appearance foliage depends on the following elements.

Iron

Plants that receive adequate amounts of iron grow strong and disease resistant. Iron deficiency causes a disease called chlorosis. The leaves curl around the edges, turn yellow, shrink. First of all, young leaves suffer from iron deficiency, then yellowness passes to adult leaves. Chlorosis is accompanied by slow growth of home roses and loss of green mass. Iron deficiency is more common in alkaline soils.

What to do: to restore acidity, a fertilizer that acidifies the soil, for example, organic, is used. With a neutral acidity index, foliar top dressing with Ferovit, Ferrilen is used.

Nitrogen

Roses experience nitrogen deficiency more often in spring. Lack of nitrogen leads to pallor, to yellowing of the foliage. The color change starts from the lower leaves and gradually moves up. Meanwhile, the lower leaves fall off.

What to do: nitrogen deficiency can be replenished by fertilizing with urea or universal fertilizer.

Manganese

With a lack of manganese, yellowing begins with old leaves. Yellowness appears between the veins, moving from the edge to the center of the sheet. A green border remains around the veins. This happens when an indoor rose is planted in an alkaline soil. Or when planting a bush, a lot of lime was added.

What to do: the situation will be corrected by the introduction of a solution of manganese sulfate under the plant, deoxidation of the soil.

Magnesium

Magnesium deficiency is more common in plants growing in acidic soils. Deficiency of the element is reflected first on adult leaves, and then on young ones, in the form of discolored spots. Reddish-yellow spots appear between the veins. The edge of the leaves remains green, but leaf fall on the windowsill is inevitable.

What to do: magnesium content is restored by adding magnesium sulfate, ash. With an excess of magnesium, potassium is not absorbed by the roots of plants. When fertilizing, adhere to the recommended dosage.

Reason 6. The leaves of roses may turn yellow and fall off due to drafts.

Drafts - the enemies of domestic plants - provoke yellowing and shedding of foliage.
If drafts are inevitable, then you can make paper or plastic screen to the height of culture. It will protect the flower from drafts.

Reason 7. Sunburn of rose leaves

Sunburn leaves brown and yellow spots on the leaves. Damaged foliage dries up and falls off. Burns appear from an excess of direct sunlight or from spraying cold water in the scorching sun.

You can avoid burns by moving the pot to the southwest or southeast window.

Reason 8. Pests of indoor plants

Pests on a home rose also contribute to the appearance of yellow leaves and worsen the condition of the plant as a whole.

spider mite

The insect lives on the underside of the leaf, spreading the web along the shoots. The foliage turns yellow, dries, young shoots die off. The reason for the appearance of a spider mite is excessively dry and hot air in the room, a dense accumulation of plants.

Fighting methods:

Need to lower the room temperature
Increase air humidity
Rinse the rose bush from the cobwebs with a solution of laundry soap
Treat with a solution of Fitoverm or Vermitek. Processing is carried out at least 2 times, with an interval of 10 days.
It is advisable to isolate the diseased plant from other plantings.
The soil is also treated with insecticides.
Prevention against ticks - frequent spraying of roses.

The adult and larvae of the pest live on the underside of the leaf plate. As a result of the vital activity of the rose leafhopper, pale spots appear on the foliage. The leaves turn yellow, curl and crumble, the development of the rose slows down. Reproduction of the rose leafhopper is facilitated by heat and dry air.

Fighting methods:

On the initial stage wash the plant with soapy water from all sides.
In case of severe damage, the rose is treated with insecticide solutions, such as Aktara or Fitoverma.
To enhance the effect of drugs, a tablespoon of alcohol is added to a liter of solution.

thrips

When affected by microscopic thrips, the leaves become yellowish and have a silvery coating, deformed. Infection is promoted by high temperature and dry air.

Thrips on rose leaves.

Fighting methods:

Need to ensure high humidity air
Before spraying the plant with an insecticide solution, it is isolated from other plants.
The soil is also processed, and the place where the flower stood.

Reason 9. Diseases of a room rose

Unfavorable conditions and improper care provoke diseases. Regular inspection of plants will help prevent their occurrence.

powdery mildew

The cause of such a fungal disease as powdery mildew, is too wet soil, lack of fresh air, excess fertilizer or heat.

Signs of the disease are: yellowing, twisting and falling leaves.

Fighting methods:

Be sure to remove diseased shoots, leaves, buds
Treat the entire bush with a solution of fungicides.

black spot

black spot - infection. Signs of the disease: yellowing of the green mass, the formation of dark spots with uneven edges. A diseased rose does not tolerate wintering well, grows more slowly and blooms little.

Fighting methods:

The disease will help defeat any systemic fungicide.

Knowing why the leaves of a room rose turn yellow and fall off, many problems can be prevented.

A few more necessary rules for caring for mini-roses:

Flowers need access to fresh air.
From October to February, a room rose needs peace.
After flowering, reduce watering.
Shoots are shortened to 10 centimeters.
Roses are transferred to a cool room.
In the spring, rested bushes will begin to actively give new shoots, form buds.
Cut roses twice a year: before wintering, during flowering.
When pruning, leave the outer kidney. The bud, which is directed inside the bush, forms it incorrectly.
When shortening the shoots in autumn, 4-5 buds are left for each strong shoot, and 2 buds for the weak one.
At summer pruning remove wilted flowers, yellow leaves.

To activate the protective functions of a room rose, to increase immunity, plants should be periodically treated with biostimulants: Epin, Zircon.