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Powdery mildew: treatment and prevention, control measures. Effective methods of dealing with phytophthora Phytophthora appeared during the flowering period what to do

With the beginning of the second half of summer, when a lot of dew falls in the morning and the rainy season sets in, nightshades are subjected to a merciless attack by phytophthora, also known as brown rot. This extremely insidious pest attacks plants during fruit ripening and is able to destroy the lion's share of the crop. Therefore, it is necessary to fight the disease energetically and systematically, correctly choosing the strategy of "war".

Damage to plants during late blight is caused by oomycetes, which until recently were classified as fungi, and now they have been isolated in separate group special mycelial organisms. Phytophthora specializes in nightshade representatives, so potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes, peppers and physalis become their victims in the beds.

Most of his life cycle oomycetes spend in the phase of spores in the soil and the remains of diseased plants. Only with the onset of favorable conditions do they move on to active life, the purpose of which is to leave offspring. When the air is heated to a temperature of +25 - +30 ° C, spores in dew drops can germinate and infect the plant within an hour.
Phytophthora is especially active during sudden changes in daily temperature, when the heat of the day is replaced by rather cool nights, which contributes to frequent fogs and heavy dew. Also contribute to its spread and frequent rains in late July and early August. But dry weather, as well as heat above +30 ° C or cooling down to +10 ° C and below, lead to the almost complete fading of the vital processes of the pest.

Phytophthora affects almost all parts of plants: gray-brown spots appear on leaves, fruits or stems. At the same time, in rainy weather, diseased plants rot, and in dry weather, they dry out and crack. From them, spores are washed off into the ground, and are also actively carried around by drops of water and gusts of wind.

Penetrating quite deep into the soil, phytophthora spores successfully endure winter frosts and in summer they again begin to attack nightshade crops. They can also quite safely overwinter in the remains of infected plants abandoned in the garden.

Is it dangerous for the crop

At the initial stage, gray-brown spots form on the leaves of infected plants. Then the leaves turn brown and die. Phytophthora first affects the leaves near the soil, and then the disease spreads upwards. Juicy, not yet strong young shoots also suffer greatly from pests, on which dark brownish stripes form, which dry out in dry weather and rot in damp weather. The tops and lateral processes of the shoots die off, and the inflorescences located on them turn black and dry out.

However, the most unpleasant thing for a gardener is the appearance of late blight spots on fruits. First, brownish or gray-green spots appear on them, which grow both on the surface and in depth. After this, the stage of hardening begins and rotting begins. In the tubers of diseased potatoes, sunken gray spots form on the surface, and inside the reddish color, the affected tissues reach the center. With a strong infection of nightshade crops with this insidious pest, up to 80% of the crop can be lost.

How to treat

Unfortunately, on this moment there are no such effective chemical or biological preparations with which it would be possible to completely disinfect the territory from phytophthora.

The proposed substances can significantly suppress the development of pathogenic microorganisms, but the soil will not be completely freed from them. Also, there is no way to cure a plant after being hit by a disease.

In the fight against the pest, chemical preparations containing copper have proven themselves quite well. The easiest way is to shed the soil for planting nightshade crops with a 1 - 3% solution blue vitriol, after which the site should be dug up and additionally treated with such a microbiological preparation as Fitosporin-M. You can also use the copper-containing fungicide Ordan.

It is a common belief among gardeners that effective way control of this pest is the introduction of chlorine. However, it is unlikely that this substance will be able to destroy the spores, but it will be possible to harm the humus for sure. Neither the soil nor the plants will benefit from this.

Chemicals suppress not only pathogenic microorganisms, but also harm those in the soil useful mushrooms. Unlike them, microbiological preparations act more selectively, since they contain colonies of microorganisms for which pest spores serve as food. The earth is not exposed to harmful influences.

To prevent outbreaks of late blight, it is effective to use such microbiological preparations as Fitosporin-M, Mikosan or Shine. During the summer they should be applied three times. For the soil in those places where it is planned to plant flowers or strawberries, you can use Alirin, which is similar in composition and effect to Fitosporin. If these preparations are not available, then the soil can be treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Prevention

It is very difficult to get rid of late blight that has appeared on the site. However, the implementation of preventive measures allows you to minimize its spread and collect an excellent harvest. Since the main source of infection is the earth, the lion's share of efforts is directed to it.

Fungicides and microbiological preparations are used to destroy spores in the soil. Because chemical substances decompose for a long time, then after their introduction it will be possible to use vegetables in food only after a month. Therefore, treatment with copper-containing substances is carried out in early spring. The introduction of microbiological preparations into the soil is allowed at any time, with the exception of the flowering period, when they can harm the nectar-gathering bees.

Phytophthora spores enter plants from the soil through moist air streams ascending from the heated earth. In order to effectively prevent this process, mulching is used. Covering the ground in spring with a layer of mulch a few centimeters thick becomes a reliable barrier against many diseases, the sources of which are spores of pathogenic fungi hibernating in the soil.

It is also important not to plant solanaceous crops densely in the ground. In addition to the fact that the plants in this case lack light and are poorly ventilated, phytophthora will easily move around the beds and infect large areas.

Autumn cleaning and burning of all waste outside the site helps to effectively get rid of spores remaining in the ground parts of plants. After that, the soil must be deeply dug.

A good result is the use of a drip irrigation system for plants. At the same time, the soil is not waterlogged, and the plants receive the optimal amount of moisture for their growth and development. in a good way prevention is the application of crop rotation. Solanaceae on the same plots of soil should be planted at intervals of three to four years.

Another option to avoid damage to plants by late blight is the cultivation of certain varieties of nightshade. These can be either particularly pest-resistant varieties or early-ripening ones, the ripening of which occurs at the time when late blight begins to actively multiply.

Video " Processing ground tomatoes from late blight”

On the record, a woman talks about the method of processing nightshade plants from a disease such as late blight.

Late blight is one of the most common diseases that affects. Very often, gardeners are faced with this disease when growing potatoes and tomatoes. Let's figure out what kind of disease it is, how to deal with it and save the crop.

The fungal disease late blight is also called potato or brown rot.. The disease is dangerous because it progresses very quickly and can spread to the entire crop in a short time.
Late blight development cycle First of all, it gets sick, and after 10-15 days, the fungus also affects tomatoes. It manifests itself in the form of spots on the aerial parts of plants, fruits and tubers.

Epidemic outbreaks of this disease are directly related to bad weather conditions: rainy summers with significant differences in day and night temperatures - best time for fungal life.

This fungal disease can proceed in different ways, depending on the pathogen that provoked it, as well as climatic conditions.

The main signs of the presence of phytophthora are considered to be the following:

On the foliage of plants, spots of brown or brown color with a white border are formed.
From below, the leaf plate is covered with a whitish cobweb coating.
Yellowing, folding, drying and subsequent death of the foliage.
Stems and petioles are covered brown spots, which grow at lightning speed and affect the entire tops of the plant.
Rotting stems.
Darkening, and then shedding of flowers and ovaries.
On the fruits of tomatoes, it manifests itself in the form of spots, which subsequently provoke softening and rotting of the tomatoes.
Potato tubers are covered with dense spots.

Tomatoes affected by photofluorosis

Important! The incubation period of late blight varies from 7 to 10 days.

Several factors contribute to the development of phytophthora, first of all, these are adverse weather conditions, namely sudden changes in temperature and excessive humidity.

Lingering fog, heavy dew and rain often cause plant infection.
Signs of late blight in potatoes Poor quality planting material or infected can also become a source of this disease.

Another reason for the occurrence of late blight is improper agricultural practices, in particular, too dense plantings and the presence on the site.

Important! When choosing planting material, preference should be given to varieties that are resistant to late blight.

Defeating this disease is quite difficult. Great importance has timely diagnosis, because if you start the disease, then the crop can not be saved.

There are several ways to treat and prevent a fungus, which ones - let's look at it.

Preparations

Fungicides are suitable to combat late blight, these preparations contain copper, which is effective against the fungus:

. 20 days after germination, the plants are treated with a 0.02% solution of the drug. The procedure is repeated during the flowering period;
. Potatoes and tomatoes are treated with a 1% solution of this substance 20 days after the appearance of sprouts, and then during flowering;
. Used to treat plants from phytophthora before flowering at the rate of 25 g of the drug per 100 square meters. m;
Revus. Before the appearance of the first buds, cultures are treated at the rate of 6 ml per 100 sq. m;
. Potent, it is used when there is a threat of an epidemic of late blight. In such cases, plantings are treated at the rate of 20 ml of the drug per 100 square meters. m.

Important! The treatment of tomatoes with fungicides, provided that it is necessary to preserve the crop, is carried out no later than 21 days before the fruit ripens.

Experienced gardeners claim that there are quite a few safe methods of dealing with this disease, the use of which is allowed at all stages of the growing season and allows you to save plants and crops. Let's look at the most effective:

In order to minimize the likelihood of late blight, you should properly prepare the soil before planting tomatoes and potatoes.

To do this, in the spring it is imperative to clear the site of young and last year's growth and loosen it well.
After that, the soil must be disinfected, this can be done using chemicals or folk remedies.

Any copper-containing preparations are suitable for soil disinfection; treatment should be carried out 2-3 weeks before the intended planting. Experienced gardeners also use a weak solution of potassium permanganate for this purpose.

Treatment and prevention

Unfortunately, 100% protection against phytophthora does not exist, but holding preventive measures before and after planting significantly reduces the likelihood of its occurrence.

To prevent the disease, chemical and biological preparations are used. At the same time, it is important to understand that chemistry can not be used during all periods of the growing season, since potent substances can penetrate the fruits and thereby make the crop hazardous to health.

Did you know? One of the reasons for the famine in Ireland in 1845-1849, when more than a quarter of the island's population died, is late blight, which destroyed almost the entire potato crop, and at that time it was the staple food of the Irish.

As for biological products, they can be used at almost any stage of plant development, without fear of a detrimental effect on the fruits and the environment.

On tomatoes

To prevent the occurrence of phytophthora on tomatoes, the following measures must be taken:

Choose only high-quality, healthy material for planting.
Disinfect the seeds before sowing in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes.
Plant tomatoes away from potatoes.
Keep a distance between the bushes, thickened plantings contribute to the emergence and development of the disease.
Do not over-saturate the soil with nitrogen.
Make good drainage, which will prevent fluid stagnation.
Plant in sunny areas.
Adhere to the recommendations of experts regarding crop rotation.
To plant .

Video: prevention of late blight on tomatoes

Seedlings before planting in open ground must be sprayed with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. After 14 days, the bushes are re-sprayed already in the garden.

Any chemical preparations for the treatment of tomatoes are allowed to be used at least 3 weeks before the expected ripening of the fruit.

Therefore, experienced vegetable growers are more often used to treat tomato late blight. folk remedies rather than fungicides.

on potatoes

As a prophylaxis against phytophthora on potatoes, the following recommendations should be followed:

Take exceptionally healthy tubers for planting; as a test for the presence of a fungus, it is recommended to keep them in a warm room with a temperature of 15-18 ° C for 10-15 days before planting. If the potato is infected, putrefactive spots will appear on it.
Do not plant nightshade crops in the neighborhood.
Avoid crowded landings.
Give preference to varieties resistant to phytophthora.
Carry out preventive spraying with fungicides or biological products every 2 weeks from the very beginning of the growing season.
Follow the rules of agricultural technology, namely loosening the soil and weeding from weeds.
Regularly apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Video: how to protect potatoes from late blight

This fungus is classified as an incurable disease, so all actions of the gardener should be aimed at preventing the development and spread of phytophthora. To do this, carry out the treatment with fungicides according to the instructions for use.

Late blight affects not only potatoes and tomatoes, but also other nightshade. Peppers and eggplants often suffer from it. Fungicides are used to treat these crops, just like tomatoes, they are sprayed with solutions of such chemicals.

When growing vegetables in a greenhouse, cucumbers can also suffer from the disease, so it is extremely important to control the level of humidity in the room and prevent the development of the disease. Cucumbers can be treated only with folk remedies aimed at combating late blight.
Late blight on cucumbers

Did you know? Despite the fact that many claim that tomatoes and potatoes affected by this disease should not be eaten, in fact, no research has been conducted on the consumption of such fruits. There are only suggestions that this should not be done, even for aesthetic reasons, because the spots that cover such vegetables do not look appetizing at all. But to eat or not to eat them, everyone decides for himself.

Late blight is a common dangerous fungal disease. Most the best option to fight it is to try to prevent its appearance in your garden, and for this you should follow the rules of agricultural technology that are shown to nightshade crops.

Late blight is known to summer residents of any rank. Beginners and experienced gardeners try to prevent the appearance of a formidable disease in their area. The second half of summer is an important period for gardeners. When the air temperature drops to 20°C-24°C, and the rains are repeated regularly, the moment comes for the rapid spread of phytophthora pathogens. The danger of the disease lies in the fact that, affecting one culture, it is transferred to others. The symptoms are different. In the article we will talk about strawberry late blight, talk about its symptoms, methods of control and prevention.

Pathogenic fungi cause disease on strawberries. Yield loss from infection can range from 50% to 100% if the variety is not able to reliably resist the disease. There are two types of late blight crop wilt.

Redness of the central root cylinder.
It can be transient or chronic.

In order not to miss the appearance of a formidable enemy of strawberries, be sure to learn the signs of its manifestation.

Late blight leathery rot affecting roots, fruits and root collars. The main signs of damage are:

Primary wilting of the lower leaves. The plates are turned face down and placed on the ground.
On the basis of petioles of peduncles, brown rings are formed, the same rings are seen on the root collar.
Leaf blades become oily brown spots during rain or fog.
Old leaves coarsen, become stiffer, the edges of the plates twist down, the veins are affected by necrosis.
The lashes on which the mustaches grow are short, there is a deformation on the leaves of the rosettes.
The ovaries and fruits darken. On the section of the berries, longitudinal darkening is clearly visible.
At a late stage of the disease, the fruits are covered with rot.

Stages of strawberry late blight development in plots

The process of development of a fungal infection goes through certain stages. Knowing the signs of each, you can take action in time.

When the buds open. Darkening of the core is noticed on the flowers. The corolla is not affected by the disease, and the pistils turn black. Symptoms resemble signs of early spring freezing of flowers. However, with late blight, the repeated summer appearance of flowers does not lead to fruit set.
When flowering ends, late blight passes to berries. The shape is deformed, the core lags behind in growth compared to the tip. Depressed light spots form on ripe fruits. When cut, a darkening of the core is observed.
In late autumn, signs of late blight on the roots are noticeable. There is tissue necrosis. All small roots, which include fibrous and lateral, die off. Large ones are exposed and resemble a mouse tail. The wood of the root acquires a brown-black color, the roots themselves rot.
In spring, the signs are clearly visible on the aerial parts of the strawberry. The leaves change color to bluish-red. There are few flowers on the affected bushes, the berries are small and in small quantities. Mustaches become brown in color, plants are stunted in growth. Read also the article: → "Causes and ways to deal with reddening of strawberry leaves."

Causes of strawberry late blight in the summer cottage

Do not allow the strong development of late blight on the bushes, so as not to lose the crop.

Weak damage by late blight does not cause mass death bushes, and a strong one leads to the destruction of plantings. To secure strawberry beds on the site, it is necessary to prevent the causes of the spread of late blight. The main reasons are the violation of agricultural technology and low-quality planting material. More:

Purchase of seedlings infected with a fungal infection. This happens when the bushes are bought in the market or from casual acquaintances. Purchase material from nurseries, specialty retailers or manufacturers.
Cultivation of varieties susceptible to the disease. There are types of strawberries that can resist late blight. Read also the article: → "Description of the Kama strawberry variety, rules for planting and caring for seedlings."
The thickening of the ridges. The bushes are poorly ventilated, which creates favorable conditions for the activation of a fungal infection. The close location of plants increases the rate of spread of the lesion.
Poor weeding or its absence. Weeds themselves are a hotbed of infection, at the same time, they thicken the plantings.
Non-compliance with crop rotation and the proximity of crops prone to such diseases.
Lack of certain nutrients in the soil (magnesium, potassium), irregular feeding leads to a decrease in plant viability and susceptibility to late blight.
Use of garden tools without sterilization. Thus, gardeners themselves carry the infection.

It is important to remember that the spores of the fungus remain viable for 4 years, so one-time precautionary measures are ineffective.

Tip #1 Carry out the necessary preventive measures regularly to protect strawberry ridges from late blight invasion in a timely manner.

Reliable methods with strawberry late blight in summer cottages

Choose chemicals with the least toxic effect on the soil and plants in order to reduce the harmfulness of the substance.

Name of the drug	Time or method of application
"Nitrafen"	Disinfection of the soil after harvesting diseased bushes according to the instructions. Treatment of the plant in the period until the full growth of the leaf mass.
Copper preparations: «Kuprosat»; · "Oksihom"; · Bordeaux mixture; copper chloride.	In from the moment of the first manifestation of signs of the disease for medicinal purposes.
Contact fungicides: "Ridomil"; "Quadris"; "Metaxil".	At the beginning of the growing season until flowering. For mild symptoms or at the beginning of the disease, use mild drugs.
Potassium permanganate	Spraying plants with a solution in the proportion of 5 g of the substance per bucket of clean water.
Iodine solution	Processing bushes composition: 1 vial (5 ml) of a pharmacy solution of iodine; 2 tablespoons of baking soda; 20 g of laundry soap; · 10 liters of water. Spraying starts at the beginning of the season and continues until its end with an interval of 2 weeks.

Chemical methods are reliable, but the use of such drugs requires certain rules to be met.. If there is no desire to introduce chemistry into the soil, there are folk remedies for dealing with the formidable enemy of strawberry ridges.

Folk recipes for fighting phytophthora on strawberry ridges

Don't neglect folk ways control to help diseased plants in time and reduce exposure to chemicals.

Folk remedies are distinguished by availability, budget and ease of preparation. Popular and proven:

Herbal infusion. To prepare it, you will need 1.5 kg of chopped nettle leaves and stems. The mass is poured with water in an amount of 10 liters and left to infuse. A day later, the composition is ready for processing strawberry bushes.
Garlic infusion. Grind the spicy vegetable in a meat grinder. The output of the finished component is 200 grams. The mass is poured with a bucket of water and left for 2-3 days to infuse. Then finely grated laundry soap (30g) is added, the plants are filtered and sprayed.
Ash infusion. A bucket of water will need 300 g of wood ash and 30 g of laundry soap. Mix all components thoroughly and spray. Read also the article: → "Ways to deal with spots and lesions on strawberry leaves."
Dairy processing. Milk and whey are equally useful. One of the products in the amount of 2 liters is diluted in a bucket of water, mixed and sprayed with strawberry bushes.

Types and advantages of garden sprayers for strawberry plantings

Compare brands of sprayers:

Name	Advantages	Disadvantages
Forte OP-10	Handheld shoulder pump sprayer. Suitable for use in greenhouses. Spraying range up to 2 meters, which allows you to process the entire room of the country greenhouse. The volume of the tank is 10 liters, light weight - up to 2 kg.	Uncomfortable for open ground- small volume of the tank, which requires constant addition of the composition.
Marolex Professional 12	Sprayer for greenhouses. Hand pump shoulder strap with comfortable strap. Aluminum tube, light weight (2.1 kg). Nice design. Sufficient tank volume - 11 liters.	For small areas only.
Battery hybrid SADKO SPR-20H	Pump and battery sprayer in one body. Advantages of both types at the same time. When the battery is discharged, you can continue to work in pump sprayer mode. A good tank volume is 20 liters.	Considerable weight for a sprayer - 6.5 kg, which is inconvenient during long work. Fairly high cost.
GARDEN SPRAY 12S	Knapsack sprayer with a convenient and easy shift of the lever for any hand. In the event of an emergency destruction of the pump, the contents of the pump cannot escape from the working container. Removable nozzle set included.	It is allowed to work at air temperature not higher than 40 °C. Short hose length - 1.2 m

Prevention of late blight on strawberry ridges of a summer cottage

Choose a greenhouse sprayer with a light weight so that it is convenient to handle the plants.

Experienced summer residents include such actions in the complex of preventive measures.

Sanitary cleaning of ridges twice a year. In spring and autumn, diseased, weak, dried bushes must be removed from the site.
Timely division of the mother plant, trimming the mustache.
Fertilizing plants with a mineral complex composition with magnesium, potassium, calcium after harvesting berries.
Strict adherence to the norms for the introduction of nitrogen components. To do this, they change organic matter to ready-made compounds - "Master", "Rosconcentrate". Organic species are introduced only when planting and in a rotted state.
Sowing green manure in row-spacings and in new areas intended for planting strawberries.
Compliance with the irrigation schedule. The spores of the fungus actively spread at high humidity, so exceeding the watering norms is unacceptable.

Tip #2 Use biological preparations "Gaupsin", "Planriz", "Trichodermin" according to the instructions.

Mistakes of summer residents during the spread of late blight on strawberries

By unprofessional actions, gardeners harm strawberry plantings on the site. Plants are affected by late blight, the quality and quantity of the crop is significantly reduced. What to avoid:

Planting of infected material.
Non-observance of crop rotation.
Plant thickening.
Lack of preplant treatment of plants.
Planting varieties prone to late blight disease.
Spread of weeds between rows.
Irregular preventive treatments with copper-containing preparations.
Non-systematic fertilizing and fertilizing the soil.
Leave infected bushes in the beds.

Questions of summer residents in the treatment of strawberry late blight

Do not delay the procedure for dividing the mother bushes to thin out the strawberry plantings.

Question number 1. The area where strawberries grow is equipped with drip irrigation. What drugs are applied using this system to combat late blight?

For the purpose of prevention, the soil is treated with Trichoderma through a drip irrigation system. At the first sign - "Metaxil".

Question number 2. Which phytospore resistant strawberry varieties to choose?

Of the resistant varieties, it is worth noting Bohemia, Zenga Zengana, Belrubi, Sakhalinskaya, Cinderella, Grenadir, Zarya.

Try not to plant "Festival", "Redgontlit", "Zenith" strawberries on a site prone to phytosporosis.

Question number 3. Is it possible to grow green manure and strawberries in a greenhouse at the same time to nourish the soil?

At the same time undesirable. Green manure, on the contrary, pull nutrients from the soil during the growth period. The second aspect is that the thickening of the ridges will increase, which leads to the rapid spread of phytophthora and poor ventilation of the greenhouse.

Reference! Phytophthora damage occurs by entering the pathogen into the plant, through damage to the leaf plate or the most unprotected place - the stomata. This is a place on the surface of the sheet, which is involved in the process of gas exchange and liquid evaporation.

But water is required for the free entry of the fungus inside, having joined in it, the spore enters the body. And it is not regrettable, but after that the plant is waiting for death.

A photo

Where and when is it formed?

Pathogenic microelements remain in the affected tubers of vegetables left in the ground after harvest, compost heaps together with the tops of diseased plants, in the soil, on the walls and roof of the greenhouse, in seeds, on garden tools. The main task of the gardener is to prevent the spread of harmful microflora. Phytophthora prefers:

soil with large quantity lime;
dense plantings, this happens in greenhouses where there is no air access for ventilation, supported high humidity and temperature;
sudden changes in temperature, due to which dew is formed - an additional source of moisture;
immunocompromised plants;
an excess of nitrogen fertilizers in the soil.

Attention! With the advent of spring, harmful organisms begin to actively develop.

Suitable conditions serve as an impetus: the ambient temperature is above + 10 ° С; humidity 75%, which last for several days. Together with raindrops, spores enter the ground, or infect the vegetative areas of young plants, through wounds, leaves, tubers, stems.

What is dangerous?

Harmfulness this disease lies in the fact that, despite the long period of maturation of the pathogen, it is able to infect the entire crop, for example, tomatoes, in a matter of days. Gray spots appear on vegetables, around which white coating .

Hence the second name of the disease - "gray rot". Plants rot, and the fruits, respectively, the fruits lose their presentation, deteriorate during transportation or storage.

The fungal pathogen is survivable, does not die even from the winter cold. Phytophthora also causes a loss in crop quality, infects seed materials, and affects plant resistance to other diseases.

What cultures are striking?

First of all, late blight disease affects the nightshade family which brings significant harm to gardeners. As already mentioned, this disease is extremely scary:

for nightshade, affects pepper, tomato, eggplant, potatoes;
cucumbers, zucchini, squash;
citrus;
strawberries, strawberries;
grapes, currants;
buckwheat;
castor beans and other plants.

How to discover?

The first signs appear a week after infection.

Main symptoms: brown or brown spots are visible on the lower leaves, surrounded by a white border, which spread rapidly. These spots are foci of the disease, which in later stages can cover the entire plant. Late blight causes severe harm to tomatoes and potatoes..

On tomatoes

The stems show dark, moist patches of a round shape. After rain, a white coating can be seen on the underside of the leaf plate. Brown-brown spots also appear on the fruits of tomatoes, which quickly increase in size and can spread to healthy vegetables.

That's why damaged tomatoes should be thrown away immediately, do not leave on the bush. But it happens that the signs of the disease change, becoming in the form of circles with yellow and brown stripes, dark rings with a yellow border, or like oily, depressed blotches.

on potatoes

The appearance of this disease is noted on the tubers, trunk, leaves. Development begins during the flowering period. You can see brown leaves at the bottom of the bush, then the spores are thrown and damage the upper parts of the young shoots. The foliage turns black, withers and dries.

Important! If the disease is not stopped, but subsequently the plant will die completely.

How to get rid of phytophthora?

Unfortunately, a universal way to fight has not been found. To eliminate it, one should resort to agrotechnical measures and chemical treatment.

How to cultivate the soil?

Many gardeners and gardeners are wondering: how to cultivate the land from phytophthora in the spring? To destroy phytophthora spores in the ground, the use of fungicides is necessary., as well as microbiological substances. In the spring, a month before planting seedlings or other seed materials, fungicides are introduced into the soil. For these purposes, apply:

Soil disinfection works like this:

Dilute 2-3% solution of copper sulphate.
We cultivate the land with the resulting mixture.
After we dig up the area.
We water the soil with a solution of Fitosporin, which are pre-prepared as follows: 1 tablespoon is diluted in 10 liters of water. This mixture is enough to water 10m2 of area.
Flower beds are treated with Ordan solution.

Microbiological agents can be used not only in spring but also throughout the year. Just exclude the flowering period of crops, because processing at this time can provoke the death of bees.

Greenhouse disinfection in spring

In order to prevent and prevent further infection with a fungal infection, greenhouses must be disinfected. If it is not removable, then all the walls inside must be washed with a soda solution (200 g of soda is needed for 10 liters of water). After that, rinse everything with water under pressure, preferably from a hose.

Also, in early spring or late autumn, sulfur bombs should be set on fire in the greenhouse or a piece of woolen cloth should be lit. In this case, the doors must be tightly closed within 24 hours so that there is no air access. There is another method - dusting the greenhouse, wood ash mixed with tobacco dust in a ratio of 1:2, respectively. Grate the surface of the greenhouse with this mixture and sprinkle the soil.

Reference! You can treat the entire greenhouse from the inside with Fitosporin solution or Baikal EM. For the winter, it is advisable to remove the doors in order to kill the infection with frost.

Folk remedies

Many gardeners do not want to use chemicals for processing vegetable and fruit crops. Therefore, they use their own prepared preparations.

In 10 liters of water, stir 1.5 cups of chopped garlic cloves, leave for 2-3 days. After strain and add 2g of potassium permanganate. Spray the fruit ovaries with this infusion, repeat the procedure after 10 days. Thus, plants should be treated every 2 weeks in order to have a positive result.
Wood ash is powdered all between the rows before watering. The first procedure is carried out when the seedlings are planted, and the second one is already in the process of plant ovary.
We take skimmed milk 0.5 liters and add 7-8 drops of iodine. And also spray crops every 2 weeks.
Fermented kefir 1 liter is diluted in 10 liters of water and the plant is treated.

Protection

In fact, there are a lot of such substances, but the infection easily adapts to it, so it is recommended to alternate fungicides.

During the growing season, it is better to use: 1% Bordeaux mixture, a suspension of copper oxychloride (2 g per 5 liters of water), Ditan (1 g per 5 liters). These drugs have a more gentle effect. However, systemic fungicides are more suitable for treatment, which, penetrating into the plant, kill the infection from the inside, thereby completely blocking its spread throughout the plant.

Prevention

Seeds resistant to late blight should be planted.
It is important to place nightshade beds away from each other.
Fruits and plants affected by the disease should be removed from the site and burned.
Prevent overgrowing of beds, thin out planting and eliminate weeds.
Protect seedlings from sudden changes in temperature. It is better to plant plants after the end of night frosts or cover them with agrofiber.
Fertilize the soil should be moderate, especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
Use as much as possible folk methods treatment, they are more environmentally friendly and definitely will not harm human health.
Ventilate greenhouses regularly.

Fight and treatment dangerous disease late blight is often associated with the use of toxic chemicals. Therefore, for security reasons, use personal protection. But it is better to use potent substances only when absolutely necessary.

Conditions for the development of the disease

The optimal conditions for the development of the disease are created when elevated temperature and humidity. On heavy, poorly drained, excessively moist soils, the disease develops more strongly.

At an optimum air temperature of 25 ° C and the presence of liquid moisture, zoospores germinate, and the mycelium quickly spreads upwards.

The rootstock 62-396, MM 106 and apple varieties Cinnamon striped, Shtreifling are sensitive to the disease. Resistant varieties are Freedom, Liberty, Melba, Antonovka ordinary, vegetative rootstocks M 26 and M 9.

Protective measures

It is very difficult to stop the development of late blight rot. The main control measures are preventive, including the laying of new orchards in uninfected, well-drained areas. For planting use only healthy planting material. Select rootstocks that provide biological compatibility with the scion. Sick trees are dug up, capturing completely root system, and burned. Chemical protection measures have not been developed.

In fruit-bearing irrigated orchards, plowing is avoided, which contributes to falling asleep the root neck of the tree and injuring it with tillage tools.

In the lowlands, where siltation of the bases of boles occurs during the spring melting of snow, they are unraveled in early spring.

When winter whitewashing boles with a 20% solution of lime, 4-5% copper sulfate (400-500 g per 10 l of water) is added to the composition.

In the spring, whitewashing is repeated. When spraying trees before bud break, 1% DNOC is also used to cover the bases of boles. On diseased trees, the affected areas are cleaned to healthy wood, disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water) or another antiseptic, and cover the damaged area with garden pitch. When laying a garden, the roots of seedlings are soaked in a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Do not leave under the trees and in the crown of rotten fruits. Avoid excessive watering, as well as laying seedlings and the first field of the nursery on heavy soils. They are fighting against black goldfish, which damages the root neck of plants.