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What and how to fix a leak in a heating pipe? Sealing joints and cracks in a cast-iron pipe How to close a crack in a plastic pipe.

Leaks in the heating circuit in the dead of winter are common. The defect can be effectively eliminated by improvised means, sealing the leak before the end of the heating season, without draining the water from the system.

Leaks in the heating system occur due to different reasons and in different places of the contour: in straight sections or at pipe junctions.

Leaks in straight sections

The cause of leaks in metal heating pipes, which have been in operation for more than one year, in more than 95% of cases is corrosion (rust) of the metal.

Even thick-walled galvanized pipes in heating circuits are eaten by rust over time. The destruction of metal in contact with water is a natural process that has not yet been completely overcome.

The trigger for metal destruction can be:

  • mechanical, chemical internal damage to the pipe;
  • swings temperature regime or pressure;
  • damage to the protective outer layer.

Note! If a leak occurs in an old heating pipe, then most likely this is a warning about the total wear of the entire system.

In autonomous heating systems, which are mounted from modern polymeric materials, the causes of leaks are incorrect choice pipes.

When the owner, unknowingly or for reasons of cost savings, acquires pipes for cold water or non-pressure pipes for domestic hot water systems or heating system. In this case, a simple sealing of the leak is indispensable, often a complete replacement of communications is required.

Leaks at joints

Leaks in the connection area occur if the thread has become unusable (for example, it has become stuck and has been torn off).

Leakage of the heating system is not uncommon, and in most cases it happens unexpectedly, except for test runs of equipment at the beginning of the heating season. What caused the leak is not always possible to determine reliably, and it is not always important, since in the foreground in such situations is the restoration of the tightness of the heating circuit. As a rule, a thorough repair is postponed for the warm season, and if a leak is detected, they choose how to cover up the leak in the heating pipe temporarily.

Factors characterizing system depressurization

The heating system consists of the following main elements:

  • heating boiler;
  • pipeline;
  • radiators;
  • control and measuring and shut-off valves.

All of the listed elements are mounted in a heating circuit, the tightness of which depends on the integrity of the constituent elements and their connections.

The choice of method for restoring the integrity of the heating system depends on the following factors:

  • accessibility of the damage site;
  • leakage status (fistula, loss of tightness of a threaded connection, etc.);
  • the material of manufacture of the damaged element;
  • the possibility of shutting down the system.

Based on the combination of the above circumstances, a method is chosen how to most effectively close the leak in the heating pipe in the current situation.

Preparatory work

When spot repairing the heating system, first of all, it is necessary to establish a specific place for the leakage of the coolant. If the pipeline is laid secretly (in the wall, in the floor), lined with decorative elements or equipped with thermal insulation, the task becomes more complicated.

Important! In a situation where a pipe or a joint embedded in a wall has leaked, it is advisable to consider the possibility of installing a new section of the pipeline, since it does not make sense to spoil the finish of the room for repairing a pipe with a high degree of wear.

On the alleged emergency section of the circuit, they are dismantled decorative trim and thermal insulation, the place of leakage is found, after which the nature and extent of damage, as well as its accessibility to repair, are assessed.

Spot repair of the heating system can be of three types:

  • mechanical - with the use of compressing and tightening devices, electric welding and other means not based on the use of sealing solutions;
  • chemical - using different kind sealing compounds that harden as a result of chemical reactions or drying;
  • combined - sealing the circuit using a combination of mechanical and chemical methods.

If selected mechanical way repair, and the damage is not significant (needle fistula or drip leak), the heating system can be left in operation before starting work to eliminate the leak. If the damage is more serious, then the heating must be turned off:

  • the autonomous boiler is turned off, the coolant is drained;
  • in system central heating it is necessary to close the valve of the common riser and hang a warning sign on it, and then also drain the water from the system.


The technology of processing the base before sealing the contour depends on the material of the pipeline, the status of the leak and the type of repair, but, in any case, the final result of the work is largely due to the quality of the surface preparation.

Methods for performing repairs with reference to the place of leakage

In most cases, it is possible to eliminate the leakage of the heating system on your own, without the involvement of professionals. To do this, consider the methods for producing spot repair of the contour with the most common damage.

Elimination of a fistula in a straight section of a steel pipeline by mechanical means

On a horizontal or vertical section of a solid steel pipe due to a number of factors (wear, corrosion, material defect), a leak often occurs, which can be eliminated independently and without significant costs.

If a fistula with a jet cross section of approximately a match has formed in a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 50 mm, then it can be eliminated even without special preparation of the base, but the thickness of the pipeline wall must be at least 3 mm. The area around the damage is cleaned of rust and scale with a file or grinder, after which a self-drilling screw with a sealing rubber washer is screwed into the hole with a drill. The length of the screw is selected in such a way that it protrudes minimally at the exit from the hole inside the pipe and in no case rests against the opposite wall.

Important! When using an electric drill, the coolant in the pipe must not be under pressure so that the water jet does not hit the tool and cause an electrical injury or breakage of the drill. For safety reasons, it is better to use a drill with a built-in 12 V battery, wrapped in a plastic bag with a slot for a chuck.

It is also better to know in advance how to close a hole in a heating pipe with a diameter of 50 mm or more and with a larger fistula cross section, since the consequences of damage to such a heat pipe are more serious, and the probability of an accident is no less.

The hole of the fistula is driven with a drill of a slightly larger diameter in such a way that then a bolt thread can be cut in it. The wall thickness must also be sufficient for threading. The table shows the correspondence of drills and threads (tap).

Standard Pitch Metric Hole Diameters

After cutting the thread, a bolt with a washer and a rubber seal is screwed into the hole. The length of the bolt is selected depending on the wall thickness - the part after screwing should not block the pipe lumen or rest against the opposite wall.

It is possible to eliminate the leakage of a steel heating pipe without threaded elements - by caulking and electric welding. The hole is drilled to the nearest diameter, after which a cone (chop) of a suitable size, machined from steel, is hammered into it with a hammer. The part of the chop remaining outside is ground down by a grinder to such an extent that a small protruding hat remains, which is then scalded by electric welding. This method of eliminating leakage is reliable and durable, but it should be remembered that rutile-coated electrodes must be used for welding galvanized pipes, and the pipe wall thickness must be sufficient (3 mm).

A single hole in the wall of a steel pipe can also be plugged with a narrow clamp.

Such a clamp can also be made independently from strip steel, but there is a large assortment of these devices on sale, the aesthetics of which are much higher. The clamp is selected according to the diameter of the pipe and, if there is no gasket included with it, such a sealing strip is cut out of rubber or paronite with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The device is put on the pipe, the gasket is combined with the fistula, and the clamp is crimped with the necessary force. This method of eliminating leakage is also applicable to pipelines made of copper or polymeric materials.

In a situation where several fistulas have formed on a small area, it is impossible to use the above repair methods - the pipe section is weakened, and it is not effective to repair leaks individually and even fraught with the destruction of the entire contour fragment. For damage to an oblong shape (crack), a narrow clamp, like a chop, cannot be installed.

If in this moment it is not possible to replace the entire emergency section, then clips are used to restore the tightness of the heating pipeline - wide clamps, the principle of operation of which is the same as that of narrow devices.

Repair of a pipeline in a straight section or a turn by chemical and combined methods

To eliminate the leakage of the heating pipeline, different kinds heat-resistant one- and two-component sealants used on both steel and polymer pipes. The most widespread are high-temperature silicone-based compounds, characterized by a high degree of adhesion, plasticity and the ability to withstand temperatures up to 350 degrees. These sealant mixtures differ from other types of silicone adhesives by having a reddish or brown tint.

Each of these compositions has its own instructions for use, set out on the packaging and providing for the use of joints and mates for sealing. But, if reinforcement is applied, they can also be used on a plane, that is, on the surface of a pipeline, both steel and polymer.

Before starting work, the coolant is drained from the heating system, and the area around the damage is cleaned of paint, degreased and dried.

Important! The adhesion of silicone sealants to smooth surfaces is stronger than to rough ones, therefore, the repaired section of the pipe should not be treated with abrasives.

Reinforcement of the silicone sealing coating is made to increase the tensile strength of the shell and its resistance to mechanical damage. Serpyanka is used as reinforcement - fiberglass masking tape.

A sealant is applied to the prepared surface of the heating pipe in a continuous layer 2-3 mm thick, on top of which a sickle is screwed - in butt turns. A layer of sealant is again applied over the first layer of the mesh, and then a sickle again, but with 5 mm overlapping turns on each other. In total, there should be 4 or 5 layers of mesh with layers of silicone. It is necessary that the turns fit into an interference fit, without folds with voids, like bandaging - with the tape turning around the axis at the end of each layer to return in the opposite direction. Such bandaging should capture sections of the pipeline 10-20 cm in both directions from the damage. The last layer on the pipe is made of sealant, which is smoothed out with a hand dipped in soapy water. The end of the sickle is temporarily attached to the pipe with a nylon clamp away from the repaired area - after the composition has cured, it is cut off flush with the surface of the sealant.

Depending on the type of adhesive and the total thickness of the sealing layer, curing, which occurs from the contact of the composition with atmospheric moisture, requires from several hours to a day.

Using the same technology, using sickle reinforcement, the heating system is repaired using heat-resistant rubber sealants - also durable, but elastic compounds that are successfully used both in everyday life and in production.

It should be borne in mind that silicone and rubber sealants are commercially available for use in automotive engines. If the performance characteristics of such compositions meet the requirements of the heating system, then the auto-sealant, designed for use in the repair of an internal combustion engine, will cope even more with the sealing of the heat pipe in everyday life.


To fix a leaking pipe in a domestic heating system, ready-made repair kits are often used, which include everything necessary for sealing. An example of such tools is the Siloplast repair kit, even equipped with protective rubber gloves. The main element of the leak elimination in the kit is a tape with a special impregnation, which, upon contact with water (wetting during installation), hardens and forms a strong hermetic shell on the pipe, which does not need to be additionally coated with anything.

The method of application of Siloplast is described in detail on the packaging, and the success of the repair depends on the observance of this technology, as well as the quality of the base preparation. The repair kit can be used not only on straight, but also on curved sections of the pipe, as well as over threaded connections, the sealing material of which has lost its properties.

The material is produced for various areas of production, so when buying, you need to choose exactly the type of repair kit you need, one of them is Siloplast "For Home".

To restore the tightness of the heating system, special two-component compositions called “cold welding” are also used - mixtures based on epoxy resins with the addition of metal filler and additives that are responsible for the specific characteristics of the adhesive under certain conditions.

The resin in the composition ensures the plasticity of the material after curing, and the metal-containing component increases the strength and hardness of the binder. Cold welding is produced in liquid and plastic form. Specifications, including operating temperature and method of application, are indicated on the packaging. It remains only to choose the right type of sealant that corresponds to the operating conditions and the material of manufacture of the thermal circuit.

If the heating pipe does not leak significantly, then the question of how to cover the circuit in a straight section or a joint of a threaded connection can also be solved with improvised means, for example, using Minutka glue or identical in action. To do this, the repaired surface or crack must be cleaned of paint, degreased and dried. Then the prepared area is wrapped with a layer of serpyanka end-to-end and rubbed into the mesh cells with a regular baking soda(previously, the first turn is pointwise attached to the pipe with glue). Then another layer of mesh coils, already overlapped, is applied to the pipe, and the cells are again filled with soda. After laying the third layer of sickle with soda, the last turn of the tape is fixed with a nylon clamp, and glue from a tube is applied to the resulting clutch, starting from the site of damage. The glue is instantly absorbed into the soda and, reacting with it, also instantly hardens, forming a strong shell. It is necessary to apply glue to the entire surface of the winding, the tubes are squeezed out one by one as they are emptied, the number of tubes depends on the area of ​​the repaired area.

If the damage to the pipe is a crack, then it is also stuffed with soda and glue is dripped on top, instantly sealing the damage. A sickle bandage is applied over the crack in the manner described above.

The method is applicable for the repair of both steel and polymer pipes.

There is another way to seal coolant leaks on a straight or oval section of a steel heating pipeline, as well as on top of a threaded connection - using a reinforced cement mortar bandage. To do this, the system is depressurized so that water does not ooze from the damage site, and the repaired area is cleaned of paint and rust. Then, an aqueous solution of the consistency of sour cream is prepared from cement grade 400 or 500, and the problematic section of the pipeline is bandaged in layers with a strip of canvas fabric that passes liquid well through itself (you can use a sickle or an ordinary medical bandage). Bandaging is carried out with coating of each layer cement mortar. As a result, a sleeve with a wall thickness of at least 2 cm should form on the pipe, which is covered with the last layer of the same solution.

The effectiveness of the method can be increased if, for mixing cement, not water is used, but PVA glue, but not its pasty variety, but emulsion. In addition, cement-based coating waterproofing can be used instead of cement.

Ceresit CR 65, designed specifically for the installation of waterproof coatings.

Important! The use of a cement bandage for sealing the heating pipeline is a temporary measure, since the cement is not plastic and poorly resists the tensile forces that will affect it during the thermal expansion of the pipes, so even reinforcement with sickle will not save from the occurrence of microcracks in the repair shell over time.

Elimination of leakage in places of threaded connections

If the coolant flows at the junction of pipe sections made by the threaded method, or at the points of connection to the heating radiator, shutoff valves, then the best action would be to dismantle the threaded connection to diagnose the cause of depressurization. This refers to the situation when, during the installation of the heating system, fittings designed for adjustment - adjustment with a seal were not used. The dismantling of the threaded connection, which is carried out after the coolant is drained from the system, will show the cause of the leak - thread wear or loss of sealant qualities.

In the first case, the thread profile is refreshed by passing a lerki (die) along it with cutting an additional 2-3 turns. If the thread is significantly destroyed, then you will have to insert a new pipeline fragment by welding or, again, a threaded connection (drive).

If the thread is in satisfactory condition, the sealing material is replaced. To do this, the threads are cleaned of the remnants of the old sealant and a new one is applied to it. For reliable sealing, it is recommended to use a combination of a fiber sealant (linen strand) and one of the types of sealant for threaded joints, including anaerobic ones, designed for independent use.

You can simplify this procedure by using a special universal impregnated sealing thread. The material of the thread can be natural or synthetic, impregnation is most often silicone. Such a thread is attractive by its ease of use, versatility and affordability, which allows you to carry out repairs yourself and without significant costs.

FUM-tape is widely used as a sealant for a threaded connection - a synthetic material, due to the fluorine content, it is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

FUM tape is produced in three types:

  • FUM-1 - with vaseline-based lubricant, for use in industrial pipelines, including those with aggressive media;
  • FUM-2 - does not contain lubricant, suitable for environments with oxidizing agents;
  • FUM-3 - for pipelines with non-aggressive media.

All three types of FUM tape are suitable for use in domestic heating systems and are quite effective when properly applied to the thread.

In cases where the leakage intensity is not significant, the dismantling of the threaded connection can be postponed until the end of the heating season, and the tightness of the connection can be restored by applying a reinforced bandage over the joint using one of the sealing compounds described above - silicone, rubber, cold welding.

Conclusion

When fixing a leak in a heating system, the effectiveness and longevity potential of the repair should be objectively assessed. Most of the remedies offered by manufacturers to fix a leak are designed to temporarily eliminate an emergency before taking action. radical measures, including production overhaul heating systems. Therefore, after diagnosing the causes of the leak and choosing how to cover up the damage, it is necessary to consult with professionals, not relying only on marketing advice in the store, sometimes provided by workers without experience in repair and construction activities. This will make it possible to obtain an objective assessment of the situation and correctly plan repair activities at the end of the heating season in order to avoid aggravating the situation in the cold season.

The secondary housing stock gradually comes to a state of complete wear and tear, which leads to accidents, blockages and leaks in engineering pipeline networks. Therefore, the question is how to close a crack in cast iron sewer pipe remains highly relevant. About that, you can read in this article and watch the video.

A long-used cast-iron sewer drain in an apartment usually leaks for one of the following reasons:

  • there was a mechanical impact on the metal;
  • reduction in wall thickness as a result of long-term exposure to corrosion;
  • destruction of pipeline fasteners and change in the direction of the static weight load;
  • a simultaneous combination of two or three of the above effects.

Longitudinal cracks in plastic sewer materials appear only as a result of the lack of compensation for thermal expansion or there was an external impact of great force.

What to do if the sewer pipe is leaking

The damaged area must be repaired using one of the methods described below.

When to replace a damaged area

The section of the cast-iron pipe on which a sewer leak has formed must be changed in case of severe corrosive wear and the impracticality of repair, as well as large cracks or numerous leaks.

How to fix a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe with your own hands

In order to eliminate the leak, it is necessary to accurately determine the cause of its occurrence and find the place where it leaks. Depending on this, choose a possible method of repair and carry out work. There are several ways to fix a sewer leak. They differ in the level of reliability, appearance pipes after repair and the complexity of execution.

Method 1. Installing clamps with a rubber gasket

This method of repair requires access to the pipeline with a margin of at least 50 mm from the walls. This condition is often not met, especially when corner location pipes in the toilet.


To install the clamp, it is necessary to clean the surface to the metal using metal brushes. After that, install the clamp with a rubber gasket.

Method 2. Cement bandage

This is a reliable way to seal longitudinal cracks in non-pressure pipelines. It consists in applying gauze impregnated with cement mortar to the site of damage.


The repaired area must be thoroughly cleaned of old paint and rust. Prepare a liquid cement mortar with the addition of sand in a ratio of 1:1. Immerse the gauze in the solution and make sure it is well saturated with the fabric. Apply a cement bandage to the surface in several layers and tie it with a rubber bandage or copper wire.

Method 3. The use of chemicals

To seal cracks and fistulas in cast iron, a mixture of phosphoric acid and copper oxide powder in a ratio of 2: 3 is used. The prepared solution hardens very quickly and therefore it must be done just before application to the site of damage.


Before filling the crack, the cleaned surface must be degreased with acetone or gasoline.

The phosphoric acid solution can be replaced with epoxy resin, but its curing time is longer and after application a surface wrap of dense impregnated fabric will be required.

How to replace a damaged pipe section

The sewer system of the apartment consists of a riser and discharge drains from plumbing and household appliances.

Replacing only the riser in the toilet or individual sections of the horizontal pipe is technically possible, not rational from the point of view of further operation.

Necessary tools and materials

To complete the work, you will need to purchase a kit of parts, which will definitely include:

  • socket pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, lengths of 2000 and 1000 mm;
  • transition pipe "cast iron-plastic" 110 × 127 mm;
  • compensation clutch (sliding) 110 mm;
  • tee or cross, depending on the wiring configuration;
  • rubber sealing collar 110×127 mm;
  • three fasteners in the form of clamps;
  • mounting grease or sanitary silicone.

From the tool you need to prepare:

  • grinder (angle grinder) with a cutting wheel for metal;
  • hammer 300-500 grams;
  • mount;
  • perforator with drilling.

Working process

After the preparatory stage, you can proceed to the direct execution of work. First of all, it is necessary to ensure the absence of fecal effluents in the riser.

The cast iron riser is cut in stages. First, a window is cut on the outside with a depth of at least half the diameter of the pipe. After that, the back wall is cut and the riser can be disassembled.


A cast-iron-plastic adapter is put on the upper cut of the cast-iron pipe. A socket of a two-meter plastic pipe is approaching it, on the lower end of which it is necessary to push the compensation sleeve to the limit.

A rubber sealing cuff is inserted into the lower cast-iron socket and a tee or cross is installed, into which a meter pipe is then inserted. Its axis must coincide with the axis of the upper tube. The movable sleeve compensator goes down and connects the two parts of the riser. The wiring of horizontal lines is made in the right directions from the tee or cross.

Leak Prevention

After installing the clamp, applying a bandage or sealant to the site of damage requires periodic inspection. In the event of the appearance of drops or yellow spots on the coating, it is necessary to apply additional sealing layers.

When eliminating leaks by installing a clamp, bandage or applying sealants, it should be understood that if there is already such damage on the pipe, then this means that its service life has come to an end and any repair will only be a temporary solution to the issue.

Therefore, immediately after the leak is fixed, begin preparations for replacing the entire pipeline.

Features of the repair of plastic pipes

Unlike cast iron, they have a smooth outer surface. Therefore, the easiest way to fix a leak on a flat area is to use a special sealed tape, which can be purchased at a hardware store.


The tape is superimposed on the hole in such a way that half of its width constantly overlaps the previous strip. Laying is carried out with the maximum possible tension of the material used. The damaged place of plastic pipes should be covered with tape in two layers when winding it in the opposite direction.

To perform repairs, you can also use a clamping collar and sealants of various compositions.

The cement bandage, due to the low adhesion of the plastic surface, will not stick to the pipeline.

The nuances of repairing PVC pipes

Since all polymer pipes for internal sewerage are made of polyvinyl chloride, then the nuances of repair PVC pipes are no different from the features of the repair of plastic pipes, which are described in the previous paragraph.

What to do if there is a leak at the junction of the fitting and the pipe itself

It is necessary to remove the old sealing mass between the inner surface of the socket and the outer wall of the pipe. After that, fill the joint with new sealant.

Seal fistulas on the pipe

Fistulas are formed as a result of a corrosive effect on the metal and their sealing is completely similar to the repair during the formation of cracks, which you can read about above.

How to get rid of an unpleasant smell in the pipe

There will always be an unpleasant smell inside the sewer pipe. Such is the nature of faecal effluent.

But in order for the smell from there not to penetrate into the room, it is necessary to ensure the complete tightness of the system, install siphons on all connection points and make sure that they are constantly filled with water.

Conclusion

It is quite possible for any apartment owner to perform temporary repairs to cast-iron pipes on their own. But to replace cast iron with plastic, it is better to invite a professional plumber. Doing such work with your own hands, you risk being left without a toilet for a very long time and creating problems for your neighbors from above. Replacing the riser must be done very quickly and efficiently, and this requires some experience and working skills. I can state this with all responsibility, as a plumber with 32 years of experience.

01-12-2012: Ludmila

Please advise, the cast-iron sewer, the last 9th floor, the pipe leading to the roof has longitudinal cracks from which condensate oozes (leaks), especially in winter. The pipe is thickly painted with oil paint, I covered it with something before. How to put it in order?

01-12-2012: Dr. Lom

Judging by the fact that you do not complain about an unpleasant smell, the cracks do not open completely and therefore you can simply cover the cracks with silicone plumbing sealant. However, before applying the sealant, the pipe surface should be thoroughly dried; the sealant will not stick to the wet surface, however, this is true for any repair method.
In general, I added longitudinal cracks and methods for their sealing to the list of possible defects for cast-iron pipes, see other methods in the article.

16-03-2013: natasha

Please tell me, in our kitchen there is a sewer pipe, it does not flow, but there is an unpleasant smell from it. Can you tell me how to insulate it so that there is no smell,

16-03-2013: Dr. Lom

If the joints of the pipes of the riser are not tight, then during normal operation of the sewer they may not leak, but in this case there are no obstacles for sewer gases. Those. you still need to check the tightness of the joints or just cover them with sanitary silicone, as the joints are dry.

08-05-2013: MiSchum

Hello. I have the following problem.
The joint of the cast-iron outlet to the riser with a socket + a plastic toilet tee 100 through a rubber cuff.
The plumbers set up the whole thing, but they didn’t apply silicone or anything, they didn’t clean the pipe in the socket, as a result they flooded the neighbors.
Everything is complicated by the fact that when draining sewage from neighbors, water flows into our sewer all the time, i.e. it is unrealistic to dry it before docking with a plastic tee.
So far, I smeared a good layer of ordinary plumbing sealant on the rubber cuff from all sides, and pressed the plastic tee back. It seems not to flow, but I read that such a connection is not durable and sooner or later it will flow again.
Now I’m thinking of covering it inside the joint (I can get there through the tee) with a hydraulic seal, as well as outside the joint. How long will this method work?
Thanks.

08-05-2013: Dr. Lom

As a rule, if it was possible to eliminate the leak, then additional sealing is not required. silicone relatively new material and I can’t say anything for sure about its reliability, but based on personal experience use, at least 20 years of silicone will last.
Nevertheless, any additional sealing is an increase in reliability, you can use any additional sealing methods, in particular, and indicated by you.

17-05-2013: Olga

Hello! How can you seal a 3x3cm hole hermetically in the lower part of the plug of a cast-iron sewer pipe under the toilet bowl, what is the best way to seal it thoroughly? The hole cannot be dried.

17-05-2013: Dr. Lom

Without seeing the situation, it is difficult to say anything definite. Usually, if it is not possible to dry the hole, then a clamp is placed or a wooden chop is clogged. If things are really bad and nothing fits, then try using a hydroseal. Although hydraulic seals are intended mainly for working with concrete and stone, if the seal is made correctly, then after curing, it will reliably grab onto the metal.

19-06-2013: Irina

Hello! I have a big hole in a cast-iron drain, a pipe in the form of a knee and a hole on the outside, it was made out of necessity by the housing office workers, and now it’s leaking. I live on the 7th floor of an 8-story building brick house Built in 1959. They offer me to wrap it with a rubber bandage and wire, but they themselves say that this is temporary. And I want to do repairs, what can you suggest more capital

19-06-2013: Dr. Lom

Of the capital - only a complete replacement of the knee.

09-07-2013: Ruslan

Hello! I myself am an experienced plumber myself and not long ago I encountered such a problem. 110 the plastic one had to be plugged, but leave a sealed hole of 35 mm for the drain pump hose. My question is how would you do it, thanks in advance!

09-07-2013: Dr. Lom

I would first insert a 110x50 adapter, and a suitable rubber cuff into the adapter. In cramped conditions, you can choose an adapter that occupies a minimum of space.

05-11-2013: Alexander

Hello! such a problem .. The sewer pipe in the toilet, there is no plug on it, which is held on by two bolts !! There is no such thing anywhere in stores! They advised plastic with a cuff, but they all have a diameter of 110., this one does not fit. What can be done ??? I wrapped it with plywood with a gasket, but the smell is still not pleasant

05-11-2013: Dr. Lom

Judging by your description, there is no cover on the revision. Try covering up the gaps between the hatch and the plywood with silicone, or even cover them with plasticine.

04-05-2014: Turgenev

It is bad and painstaking to close up a crack with cottage cheese, but cover it with chalk, and then soak it with liquid glass. When it dries, it is necessary to ignite it with a blowtorch, the liquid glass will harden and will serve happily ever after. The color will remain white.
And it's even better to change an apartment, a hole in the sewer is unfortunately.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Good day!
We have such a problem. When drilling a through hole with a puncher (drill 12), a cast-iron sewer riser was pierced. The pipe (diameter 100cm) is covered with plasterboard with ceramic tiles on it. The pipe itself is treated with resin and painted on top (the old one will peel off). The impact hole turned out just in the place where the ventilation grate, i.e. there is access to damage. It was decided to quickly buy a cold welding "White Titan", having previously sanded a little around (you know, when it whips out of a hole you can't prepare much), applied the mass mashed according to the instructions and pressed it with a clamp. The next day I decided to remove the clamp and see how this welding "works". In general, without a clamp, water began to ooze from under it. Then after some thought I decided to do the following. Having cut out a square of approximately 7x7 cm with a chisel from sheet metal (having previously bent it), I also cut out the same square from rubber about 3 mm thick and acquired two clamps (101-121 mm) for installing downpipes. Having done new portion welding (previously removing the old one, quite easily) covered the hole, covered everything with a sandwich from a 7x7 square of rubber and steel on top and pulled it together with two clamps. Now I’m sitting and thinking if a crack could have gone down the pipe along the resin, for example, maybe a puddle has already gathered there. Probably, to calm my conscience, one of these days I will carefully dismantle the bottom tile and check for the presence of liquid / moisture at the bottom behind the skin. Are the measures taken above sufficient, and how long will they last? Will the hole be wasted by water and corrosion over time? They write that the natural loss of cast iron from corrosion is 0.1 mm per year.

28-07-2014: Dr. Lom

If, as a result of the breakdown, a crack did not form on the pipe, then the measures you have taken should be enough for a long time. That's just cold welding, if water constantly gets into the hole, it is unlikely to seize normally. In general, the clamp can stand for 5 and 15 years, but sometimes it will be necessary to check its condition. As for the loss of cast iron by 0.1 mm per year, I hear it for the first time. So for 50 years nothing would have been left of cast-iron pipes, and in some places they serve for 100 years.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Yes, the hole was wet, because the pipe is located vertically, and there are 8 more floors on top. But in the instructions for welding, the possibility of working under water was indicated. Immediately below the clamp, I wrapped the pipe with toilet paper, using it as a leak indicator. As long as it's dry.

04-08-2014: Angelina

Hello,
Cracked sewer pipe. The depth (height) of the crack is 11 cm. top floor I see her coming out of the ceiling. The case takes place on the 2 (3) floor of a 12-storey brick building built in 1955. A solid pipe does not go to the floor. Approximately 110 cm from the floor, it enters a wider “neck”, and under the “neck” there is a “hatch” on four large bolts. Turned off hot water for prevention, after switching on and the current heat, it is very hot in the toilet, it began to flow through the pipe during rush hours in the morning and evening. Puddles form on the floor, there is no obvious smell now, but when it was very hot it was a little. Because it is very hot in the toilet, plywood shelves 2 cm wet through and dry out overnight. The plumber came and said that they would mint.
Advise, please, to agree to minting, or to insist on a replacement. And how can I check the correctness of the work.

04-08-2014: Dr. Lom

Agree to caulking, if that doesn't fix the leak, then insist on a replacement. It is easy to control the work - if the leak is eliminated, then the work is done correctly. More details in the article "Rules for the installation of sewerage."

15-11-2014: Nika

good afternoon, I have a problem, the tee in the toilet cracked 1 mm and length 1.5 cm how can it be repaired is it possible to wrap it with liquid glass with cement with a bandage for nothing how to dilute cement and liquid glass advise how best

15-11-2014: Dr. Lom

Judging by your description, the crack is really small. If water does not ooze through the crack, then you can simply wrap the pipe with a bandage, after pouring cement on the bandage or on the crack and moisten the bandage a little. If you use liquid glass, then you do not need to moisten the bandage, the role of water in this case will be performed by liquid glass. I will not tell you any special proportions, you will see them yourself.

07-12-2014: Timothy

Hello! Please advise how to solve the problem in this situation. We live in a block Khrushchev on the 5th floor. Water began to drip from the ceiling. They called a plumber. repaired fan pipe in the attic, gouging the wall from the side of the entrance (they decided not to touch it from the bath - there are beautiful suspended ceilings). In spring/summer/autumn it didn't drip. Now, after the onset of cold weather, it began to drip again. They called a plumber. They said that they forgot to close up a hole from the attic, through which warm air rises from us (we can’t see it, since the ceiling is hinged). The hole was filled with construction foam. It seems to drip less, but it still drips. We slipped a mobile phone with a camera into the hole of one of the bulbs (after unscrewing it), took pictures. It can be seen that the rail to which the ceiling is attached is raw, i.e. water still flows from the attic. Please, prompt, in what there can be a problem. Hot water, cold water and heating do not go to the attic.

07-12-2014: Dr. Lom

Options 2. Or is it condensate or precipitation flowing down the fan ventilation pipe due to a poorly sealed joint on the roof. In any case, the mounting foam does not have waterproofing properties and the joint of the pipe with the ceiling above your ceiling should be sealed with at least cement-sand mortar above.

11-12-2014: Igor

Good day. Do not tell me what or how to eliminate in cast iron bath small holes less than 1mm. (water seeps through them)

01-03-2015: ruslan

I have strong condensate on the cold riser pipe, the neighbor upstairs (on the 4th floor) has the same thing, he drowns me slowly. Water is constantly making noise through the pipes, that is, water is constantly being withdrawn. I went up several times to my neighbor on the fifth floor, but to no avail, the family is dysfunctional and they are not going to repair their toilet flush tank (we have everything new and repaired) they are not allowed into the apartment. My question is - will it help if I put a heater on my neighbor's pipe? or how to remove condensate from pipes? I think it can stick around the pipe with plasticine and make a drain out of it into a separate container, although it may not stick to a cold pipe

02-03-2015: Dr. Lom

To begin with, you should contact the operating organization. She should be more interested than you in ensuring that water does not drain uselessly into the sewer.
Further, it is possible, in principle, to insulate the riser, but not only with a neighbor from above, but also in your apartment, although it is much better to eliminate the cause of condensate. As a temporary measure, you can put a clamp on the pipe and fix a tin or plastic of the appropriate shape with it so that condensate flows from it into a separate container. Plasticine is unlikely to help here.

08-06-2015: Egor

Good afternoon!
I have a problem: a leak at the junction on the drain between the cast-iron sewer pipe and the plastic corrugation. There are suspicions that the rubber transitional cuff does not hold. I bought a new set of corrugations with a cuff, but the leak at the junction with cast iron continues. What to do with this leak?

08-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Look at the article "How to dock plastic and cast iron sewer pipes", it describes the possible options.

09-06-2015: Igor

Good afternoon!
Tell me how to tightly drown out the cast-iron outlet of the sewer under the sink? I need to lay it with tiles (after cutting it flush with a grinder). The problem is that the drain goes inside concrete wall, and we have one sewer pipe for 2 apartments, the neighbors actively use the sink) I don’t use this drain and I want to remove it, but I don’t understand how to do it ...
Must be very secure. Welding? Stub? It will not work to pour concrete, the neighbors have a 15-20 cm tap into a common pipe. Of course, I can carefully hammer a wooden wedge with sealant or epoxy, but what will happen later when the piece of wood rots and the neighbors once again clog their bath?

09-06-2015: Dr. Lom

In fact, the installation of one outlet for 2 apartments is prohibited by modern standards, so you'd better contact the operating organization with a request to redo the sewer wiring. If the pipe is really clogged, then it will have to be cleaned and possibly from outside your apartment.

09-06-2015: Igor

What problems I may have I represent.
JEC won't help! This design feature"Khrushchob" series 1-510. Everyone is happy with our unbearable series, but this is a general channel. pipe with neighbors just got me!
Still, answer my specific question, the more it will not oblige you with anything: What would you drown out
an old (50 years old) cast-iron branch with a diameter of about 50. The condition of the pipe is good. Gas welding? Metal plug for solution? The water in my outlet will be once every six months, when the neighbors have another blockage. The cable from their drain will not pass into my plug and there is simply nothing to clean from my side.

09-06-2015: Dr. Lom

If the water in your outlet is once every six months, then a wooden chop will last for 20-30 years, maybe more. You can try to put a plastic plug with an appropriate seal. And to cook cast iron, and even hermetically, is not an easy task.

17-06-2015: Valentine

Good afternoon! Please tell me how you can seal or seal a crack in a cast-iron drain pipe ... you can crawl to the crack from the inside + a humid environment ?? what can you eat modern materials I am now considering cold welding by Vikon, Germany.

17-06-2015: Dr. Lom

The article just describes the possible options and in particular cold welding. There is no objection to cold welding if there is time for it to harden.

17-06-2015: Vasya

Good evening! Today I cleaned the drain pipe in the bathroom from blockage with a sanitary cable (9 mm), after which a leak was found on the pipe from below (the house is more than 40 years old, “Khrushchev”). It is dangerous to open water in the bathroom itself and the sink, in the kitchen - the water drips specifically, and, at odd hours, dissatisfied neighbors from below will come ... The plumber from the house management, who came about five hours after the call, said that it was necessary to change the pipe from the toilet to the faucet in the kitchen. Cast iron - on plastic. And - at our expense. And I have two questions for you. Firstly, is it at our expense, and not at the expense of the Criminal Code and thanks to regular deductions for overhaul, should work be done to replace the pipe (maybe you know about this?)? And, secondly, is the plumber right that it is necessary to change the pipe from the toilet to the kitchen, and is it really possible to do it yourself, without paying for the services of this friend from Uzbekistan? Thanks in advance for your replies!

18-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Your questions are valid and not new. Theoretically, you can demand from the Criminal Code not only the replacement of a leaky pipe, but also the cleaning of a clogged sewer, and not do it yourself. And in life, at best, they will put a clamp on a leaking pipe and offer you to wait a few years or decades before overhaul. And the fact that a plumber from the Criminal Code offered you to change the pipe at your expense is nothing more than the use of your official position. In the sense that for such work you can call any plumber from outside or even do it yourself. There is nothing difficult in replacing a pipe section from cast iron to plastic; it is not necessary to change the entire pipe to the riser, although it is desirable. Just in case, look at the "Mixed Sewer" section.

18-08-2015: novel

Goodnight!
If you don't help, just break boxes and change pipes)))
The upper floor of the stalin, 5 years ago, did a complete renovation, the pipe was replaced with plastic 110, through the cross in the ceiling it joins with the old cast-iron one (of course, through a rubber coupling). Everything was ok. The neighbor downstairs made repairs in his toilet (didn’t change the pipes) and ... it started when I had a large drain pressure, it drips ... then it doesn’t drip for half a year, then it drips again for 2 days, then again it doesn’t drip for a month - another. But if we are away for a long time (village for a week), upon arrival, he begins to drip heavily. The cross includes a toilet drain and a drain from the bath-sink-washer. I examined the crosspiece - there are no cracks, I smeared it with sealant as best I could, it didn’t leak for several months, then again. I've already broken my head on the forums. The dudes from the offices and from Avito...can't tell. The neighbor screams, let's break (I have a cross in the ceiling immured). HELP WITH ADVICE!!

18-08-2015: Dr. Lom

Roman, I don’t think I can reassure you and suggest an option without dismantling the boxes. First, you never found the leak, and this is very important. It follows from your description that the crosspiece is new, plastic, and, as I understand it, was subsequently filled with a screed. The junction of a plastic cross with a cast-iron pipe is located in the ceiling. Also, from your description of the problem, it can be concluded that the maximum leakage occurs when you use the bathroom. In this regard, it is important to know exactly where the neighbor is dripping. It may not always drip at the place of leakage, often water penetrates through the ceiling where it is easiest to do it - at the place where the pipes pass through the ceiling, or at the lowest point of the ceiling, resulting from the deflection of the ceiling.
In addition, it is possible that the ceiling has rotted water pipe, but at the same time, water still flows down the sewer.
And finally, there are no reliable ways to eliminate the leakage of sewer pipes from the inside; as a rule, the leak is eliminated from the outside.

23-08-2015: Olga

firstly, thank you very much for your work. now, secondly, in the answer of 06/09/2015 you wrote: "In fact, the installation of one outlet for 2 apartments is prohibited by modern standards" - if it doesn’t make it difficult for you, you really need a link in which document there is such a ban. the issue of repairing the cast-iron sewerage of the early 50s is being resolved, and it seems that we have just such a tap for 2 apartments. how is it generally correct to call it - is it exactly "removal" as a construction term? I will be very grateful for the answer.

24-08-2015: Dr. Lom

1. What is a branch, riser, outlet - you can see in the article "Calculation of internal sewerage. Theoretical prerequisites", there is not only a description but also a picture for a better understanding.
2. According to SNiP 2.04.01-85 * p.17.5: "Connect sanitary appliances located in different apartments on the same floor, one branch pipeline is not allowed. "But perhaps by branch pipeline you meant a riser.
3. Repair of sewerage, made according to the old standards, is not always a simple matter. See for example the article "Repair of sewerage in Stalin".

28-09-2015: glory

Hello

28-09-2015: glory

I changed pipes from cast-iron to plastic, and the cast-iron pipe collapsed, that is, the cup of the pipe is completely, now I can’t put the pipe at 110, when the unit is flushed, everything flows. And I can’t change the pipe, it goes to the riser.

28-09-2015: glory

That is, the cuff has nothing to hold on to

28-09-2015: Dr. Lom

It looks like you will have to change the tee or cross, after discussing this with your neighbors. More details in the article "How to disassemble a cast-iron sewer riser (part 1)". I don't know of any other reliable way.

06-11-2015: Evgeniya

good evening, help with advice. The sewer riser is leaking, which is located in the shaft in the wall. The house is 5 floors. I'm on the second. They said that part of the pipe needs to be changed. everything. is it cast iron and I think it’s a lot of weight?

08-11-2015: Dr. Lom

Theoretically, the pipes should be attached to the walls and thus the load from the pipes should be transferred to the walls. In this case, there is nothing wrong with replacing part of the pipe. But how things are in your house, I do not know.

27-02-2016: Dmitry

Hello! It's just a disaster in our apartment - we can't get rid of the intense sewer smell in the bathroom. Smells from the can area. riser, cast-iron. Everything was disconnected from the riser, in all branches of the cross there are PVC corners and plugs. All joints were redone, both on the riser itself (chasing) and on the bends (cuff, sealant). Now nothing is flowing, the smell is the same .. the plumbers shrug. I have two questions: 1. Is it possible to replace the can riser with the same cast-iron one in one apartment of a multi-storey building, is there a neighbor from above and neighbors from below? 2. How to clean the outside of the riser from factory bitumen before applying a layer of liquid rubber to the riser (exclude the option of microcracks), neither a brush, nor a solvent, nor a sandpaper help much? Thanks. To understand the scale of the disaster, we made repairs in the apartment, and we have not been able to live in it for almost half a year. Zhekovsky plumbers, not knowing what to do, close their eyes and say that there is no smell.

27-02-2016: Dr. Lom

Perhaps you are digging in the wrong direction. The fact is that often the cause of the appearance bad smell is the failure of water seals and the likelihood of this is quite large if your neighbor from above removed the ventilation part of the riser and replaced it with a non-return air valve.
For starters, look at the article "Unpleasant smell in the bathroom or toilet. Causes of occurrence, how to get rid of it."

31-03-2016: Sergei

Good afternoon! Help advice. The bathroom has recently been renovated and replaced. cast iron sewer 100 for plastic. After 6 months, plumbers from the house came and said that I was "heating" the basement (I live on the first floor). They claim that when joining plastic with cast iron, I damaged the cast iron and to fix the problem they want to change the riser to the very basement, and for this it is necessary to hammer the tile and concrete around the cast iron with a perforator, thereby breaking my repair. I didn't let them do it. And by the way, everything is dry behind my riser. After my "investigation" it turned out that the same hole in the riser is located, so to speak, at the very ceiling of the basement, drowning from the bottom of my apartment. Please tell me if it is possible to carry out work on the dismantling of a cast-iron pipe from the basement, so to speak from the bottom up, and not as they offer me. And will it be possible to dock my pipe with the basement pipe from below (in order not to break anything in my bathroom)?

01-04-2016: Dr. Lom

It is possible that during the repair you really damaged the cast-iron pipe below your outlet and the hole that you found in the basement may not be the only one. In this regard, for a quality repair, in particular, to replace the pipe in the floor and properly seal the joints, it will be necessary to break the floor. However, this would still have to be done, even if the cause of the leak was not your repair.

In general, basement flooding can cause additional uneven subsidence of the base and the consequences can be much worse than tiles broken around the riser.

29-05-2016: Olesya

Hello, today I found a hole in the cast iron sewer pipe in the toilet. The pipes are about 50 years old. The only piece of pipe that has not been changed fits the riser and connects the toilet drain to it. The hole is even, the size of a 50 kopeck coin. Its edges are strong, the entire section of the pipe is also strong. Is it possible to close it with cold welding, as you advised many, and what caused the formation of a hole?

29-05-2016: Dr. Lom

In fact, the diameter of the hole is large enough and I would advise you to put a clamp. However, I don’t know where exactly you have a hole, perhaps cold welding will withstand all possible loads. And why a hole of such a large diameter appeared in the pipe, I don’t know, I can assume that this is somehow connected with a factory defect or unforeseen point loads on the pipe.

10-06-2016: Olga

Good afternoon! Your advice is very much needed. A crack is oozing in a cast-iron horizontal drain pipe (kitchen sink-bathroom-washbasin). How can you solve this problem yourself? If using two-component products, do I need to scrape the paint down to the metal? I am attaching a photo. Sorry about the pipe. Tenants live there, the attitude is appropriate. They will repair it themselves, because of the remoteness I cannot control the work. P.S. This crack did not form in one or two days? Apparently, it is necessary at least sometimes to paint the pipes and keep everything dry? Thank you in advance. Photo http://prntscr.com/bekbfn

10-06-2016: Dr. Lom

In fact, judging by the photograph, there is not one crack (part of the bell is missing, another part is chipped off) and the best option it would be to completely change the pipes. Nevertheless, you can try to seal them, but at the same time you do not need to use the sewer for at least a few hours. And the crack was formed not because the pipes were not painted and wet (they are always not painted and wet inside), but for other reasons, which, however, make no sense to discuss here.

15-06-2016: Olga

Thank you very much!
If glued, then as you advise in your article? Do you need to peel off the paint around?
Could it really be that horror that you reported about (part of the bell is missing, another part is broken off) could exist from the moment the house was commissioned (more than 30 years)? And what is surprising, there has never been a leak ... It turns out that instead of a normal pipe, the builders put some kind of stub, and covered up the holes? In Soviet times, they rented houses like that ... I'm shocked ...
Of course, as soon as possible, you need to change the pipes.
In the meantime, temporarily, at least somehow stick.
Still, the cause of the crack is the physical wear of the metal?

15-06-2016: Olga

Sorry, after.
You write "them to seal." Does it mean that there are several leaks? I see only one crack in the photo ... Can you tell me which piece of pipe should be glued?

15-06-2016: Dr. Lom

The photo I'm judging by is not very high quality, so of course I could be wrong. Nevertheless, I see in the photo a coupling to the right of the tee, which has a longitudinal and transverse crack on the right socket at the top and several cracks on the side on the left socket. Moreover, by the nature of the cracks, it can be assumed that a part of the left socket has already been chipped off, i.e. there are cracks on the bottom and it just lies on the screed. As for the missing part of the bell, here I hastened, taking the colored mortar with which the joints were sealed for part of the bell.

The cause of cracks may be factory defects, which were subjected to heavy loads during installation or operation.

I judge the presence of a crack only by the presence of rust, i.e. if there is rust, then there is a crack or a leaky joint. Whether this crack allows water to pass through is a completely different question. For example, cracks on the top of the right socket of the coupling most likely do not allow water to pass through. Nevertheless, these are cracks and over time they will only increase until the coupling crumbles completely. It is desirable to remove paint and rust before sealing cracks.

04-07-2016: Darya

I am a resident of the 9th floor, neighbors come from the 8th floor and say that we are drowning them, the husband goes down there, one drop flows down the cast-iron pipe, tells them this is condensate, didn’t you think? time passes, it’s dry in our bathroom, everything except the sewerage has been replaced, a neighbor comes from the 5th floor and says you drown us, they called the locksmith of the management company, he walked along the riser, returned to us and says you need to change the kitchen-bath-sewer branch it drowns everyone, call a paid master let him replace it. I called three at the same time, everyone was advised to contact the manager, as she should serve the sewer. The asking price was set at 10,000. I have an expensive repair in the bathroom from the previous owners .. what should I do? if my apartment is dry!!! my husband and I went down to the 7th floor - the neighbors are dry, there are no complaints, on the 6th floor in the toilet it runs along the pipe and along the wall, which drowns as much as 5th floor.

04-07-2016: Dr. Lom

Darya. Your comment is very emotional, but it is still impossible to determine the cause of the leak and complaints from neighbors down the riser.

And since you inattentively read the materials of the site, you will have to resolve all issues with a representative of the Criminal Code. All the best.

04-08-2016: Eugene

Hello help advice.
The situation is like this 9-storey panel house 4th floor shared bathroom, changed the sewerage from the bathtub and washbasin to plastic, the tee to which the toilet is connected remained cast iron, but there was a snag. When the plumber was changing the pipes, I noticed how he loosened it a little, about 1-2 mm didn’t say anything, everything installed the money, took it and left, I thought it was normal,
But now I have doubts about whether this is normal or not. Everything works fine, it seems to be leaking nowhere. Help with advice, if this is bad, what action should be taken? and can it be fixed somehow? or in
there is nothing to worry about and I'm just an alarmist?

04-08-2016: Dr. Lom

In general, if nothing flows anywhere, and even more so there are no cracks, chips or other noticeable damage, then everything is fine. However, if in doubt, ask an upstairs neighbor to flush a couple of buckets of water down the toilet to put maximum stress on the riser. If there are no leaks, then I think everything is fine.

15-08-2016: Johnn

Hello need help.
Under the apartment (wooden floor, which once collapsed) from the neighbors, I learned that the knee of the sewer riser is flowing.
the knee is cast iron, on the outside there is a hole about the size of a matchbox. A rubber sheet was attached to the hole with a wire. How to get rid of the leak forever and with what ?? (it is not possible to completely encircle or wrap the knee.

16-08-2016: Dr. Lom

In your case, the most reliable way is a knee replacement, everything else is half measures. Alternatively, you can try to weld the overlay, if possible.

27-08-2016: Alexey

Hello! I have such a problem; I started to change cast-iron pipes for plastic ones in the apartment due to leaks wherever possible and found that there was a crack along the entire length at the entrance to the riser! The nuance is that the crack runs along the bottom of the pipe, and the pipe itself is below the floor level ((! The question is how can this crack be repaired from the inside of the pipe so that plastic can be inserted there later ???

28-08-2016: Dr. Lom

If the pipes are in such a deplorable state, then it is better to replace them completely, including the tee or cross in the ceiling. Everything else is half measures.

27-09-2016: Julia

Hello! Please tell me how you can close a crack 20 cm long (it seems to be not hollow) in a cast-iron sewer parking lot, access to it is open only from above, as it is covered with tiles in front, we live on the last 5th floor, a strong smell due to cracks.

27-09-2016: Dr. Lom

You will most likely have to knock down the tiles to gain access to the pipe. I do not know of any other reliable methods other than those described in this article.

13-10-2016: Oleg

Hello! Tell me the proportion of the polymer cement solution (cement + water + PVA glue), which is described in the article.

13-10-2016: Dr. Lom

It depends on the consistency of the glue and how strong the solution you want to end up with. Sometimes, when PVA glue is completely liquid, then water can not be added at all. Well, if approximately, then for one part of water with glue (or just glue) two or three parts of cement, i.e. one to two or three.

12-11-2016: Darya

Good afternoon! My mom moved into an apartment where the riser was painted with gray paint (the kind you paint over rust). For a while, everything was fine. But, probably after six months, streaks began to appear under a layer of gray paint (the paint swelled and there was something liquid inside). Here and there Mom peeled off those layers of paint left behind from the cast-iron sewer pipe and found that under them there was only foul-smelling water and metal. Now there are many long rusty smudges along the entire length of the pipe. There are no leaks on the pipe at the joints. I heard somewhere that sewer pipes made of cast iron must be coated with something before painting. I have an assumption that the previous tenants somehow removed the protective coating from the cast-iron pipe, and then painted it aesthetically - gray paint. Tell me, please, how to properly and, most importantly, how to restore the coating of a cast-iron vertical riser in order to put it in order?

12-11-2016: Dr. Lom

As a rule, cast-iron risers are processed either with bituminous varnish (Kuzbass varnish). Before application, it is desirable to clean the riser from rust and condensate.

23-03-2017: Kate

How can you seal up a cold water leak at the junction between a plastic pipe and cast iron. The cast-iron pipe has rusted to nothing. They called the plumber from the house, he put a clamp on rubber and wire, gave a list of what to buy. The apartment is rented, not our owner does not itch. We have a plastic pipe, and under us lives a granny who has not been changed and she is not going to change. Please tell me what you can fix because there is no strength to twist the towels. It leaks terribly.please

23-03-2017: Dr. Lom

Unfortunately, I don’t know of any other methods other than those outlined in the article and in the comments. See also the article "How to dock plastic and cast iron sewer pipes."

11-01-2018: valentine

WHAT CAN YOU FINISH THE SLOT UNDER THE TEE WIDTH 1MM LENGTH 9CM WINDING GAUGE NOT FOR WHAT CAN A = IMPREGNATE WITH LIQUID GLASS WITH CEMENT AND SHOW IT INTO THE SLIT ADVISE I DO NOT KNOW THE PROPORTIONS OF LIQUID GLASS WITH CEMENT AND WHETHER IT IS NECESSARY TO ADD WATER HELP WITH GOOD ADVICE

02-03-2018: Svetlana

Good afternoon, Please advise, the last fifth floor, I replaced the background pipe from cast iron to plastic, but from the ceiling (roof, so to speak), to the connection with the plastic pipe, there was a piece of cast iron 10 centimeters, I recently discovered that the pipe is wet, I'm going to make repairs to put a new one tiles, well, sew up the fan pipe, and there is moisture, what to do? It seems to me that the whole point is in this remaining small piece of an old cast-iron pipe, maybe there is a way to process it with something or cover it in some way so that there is no moisture on the entire pipe, Please tell me,

02-03-2018: Dr. Lom

I can assume that this is condensate, which often happens on cast-iron pipes in winter. Now you are unlikely to get rid of it, but in warm time years, you can glue the remaining piece of pipe with some kind of heat-insulating material. It is not possible to completely get rid of condensate, but it will be much less. However, condensation is also possible on the exhaust part of the plastic pipe.

18-08-2018: Stanislav

Hello, such a problem. When dismantling the old cast-iron knee of the toilet, the bowl of the riser was damaged - a hole in the bottom of the cup somewhere from 5 kopecks. How can you fix it.

18-08-2018: Dr. Lom

As an option, I can offer the following: a rubber "patch" with a diameter of 2 cm more than the diameter of the hole (preferably glued), then a bandage of 5-7 layers is wound and impregnated with epoxy.

14-12-2018: Egorych

Hello!
In the toilet, a cast-iron coupling began to leak, connecting 2 vertical pipes riser.
I wrapped it in 3-5 layers with a bandage and a solution of tile adhesive (Ceresit).
In the place of my winding, strong condensate is observed during the morning and evening flows of water from the neighbors (I have a 2nd floor in a 9-story building).
What to do? Wrap a few more layers of bandage with a solution?

14-12-2018: Dr. Lom

Actually bandage and tile adhesive are not waterproofing materials, so water may continue to ooze after adding several layers of bandage with solution.
The most reliable option in this case is to call plumbers, but as a temporary measure - bandage with wire or bandage with epoxy.

A leak in a sewer pipe is a very unpleasant situation that can happen to any system. The appearance of holes arises from the natural wear of pipes or its improper operation. How to close a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe, if the problem is taken by surprise, there is no time and money to call the master.

Unusual way to seal a leak

Simple ways to fix leaks with improvised means

Most often, problems arise with cast-iron pipes, from which water supply was made in an apartment in Soviet times. the best way to eliminate the problem associated with the high wear of the system - a complete replacement of the pipeline and sewage in the toilet. When there is not enough money for this, you can use many methods to temporarily fix the crack.

Before the beginning repair work preparatory steps to be taken:

  • Shut off the water supply in the water supply and riser.
  • Inspect the location of the breakthrough. To do this, carefully examine the connection points of the pipes. These places are the most vulnerable cast iron pipelines. The cause of a leak at the junction can be the negligence of a plumber when installing the entire drainage system or as a result of impulse effects (water hammer).

After the location of the leak is located, steps to eliminate it follow. The problem of how and how to seal a cast-iron sewer pipe is being solved different ways, while both improvised and modern materials for sealing cracks can be used. Here it is worth clarifying that the repair of the old cast-iron system is possible if the problem is minor and the hole is small. Or the problem is in the joints.

Leakage on the surface of the pipes can be eliminated in the following ways using improvised means.

1) Installing the clamp in place of the leak, using rubber gaskets. This method of closing a crack requires access to the pipeline at a distance of at least 50 mm. This condition is not met in small rooms, especially with the corner location of the bathroom. Before installing the clamp, the surface should be cleaned with metal brushes from dirt and old paint.


Metal clamp at the leak site

2) Applying gauze impregnated with cement mortar or waterproof glue in places of longitudinal cracks. This method is effective only for pipes with low pressure. Work is carried out according to the following scheme:


3) Another common way is to install a plug. To do this, you will need a small wooden wedge so that it does not clog the sewer system. Install the plug in the place of the hole, and secure it by wrapping it with a regular gauze bandage. Before this, the material should be soaked in a solution of epoxy resin.

4) If the crack is large, it can be covered up with a special preparation made from phosphoric acid and copper oxide. To do this, you need to do the following:

  • The leak site is cleaned of rust and remnants of old paint.
  • The crack is deepened and the coating around it is degreased.
  • Prepare a solution of 3 parts copper and 2 parts acid.
  • It is necessary to seal the crack with the resulting composition immediately after preparation, since the mixture quickly hardens.

Note! To eliminate the problem associated with a large crack, this method can only be temporarily. Only a complete replacement of the entire sewerage system will completely help to avoid problems.

5) Epoxy resin. Made with glue. The advantages of this material include long term service, which reaches 50 years. But she does not tolerate exposure to chemicals. Therefore, if it is necessary to remove blockages, it will not be possible to use solvents. chemical substances.


Epoxy with gauze fabric

Technical sulfur. To use it, you need a burner that heats up the material. And then fill them with a crack. It should be handled with care, using special means protection.

Sealing with sealant

To eliminate fistulas and small cracks in cast iron pipes, you can use new materials. These include sealants. When using this product, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations indicated on the label, the hydraulic pressure in the system and follow the technical regulations.

The sealant is chosen taking into account the diameter and length of the sewer system and drainpipes. The solution of issues related to leakage at the joints must be taken seriously. Classify several types of insulating material:

  • Self-adhesive tapes. With their help, sealing of the soldering between pipes, insulation of couplings, nodes, drainage systems of the sewage structure is carried out. The anti-corrosion tape is made from a bitumen-rubber mixture, a protective film is applied on top. The advantages of this material include high strength and resistance to chemicals any composition. It is able to reliably hold a leak, allowing the pipe to remain in working condition for a long time.

Repair with self-adhesive tape
  • Silicone based sealant. There are two types: neutral and acidic. Removing problem areas with a neutral agent will cost more than sealing gaps with an acid sealant. The material is made on the basis of silicone, which has excellent adhesion properties.

Self-adhesive tape is a modern insulating tool that can be easily used in emergencies associated with pipe leaks. To use it correctly and spend quality repair, you need to do the following:

  • Prepare the metal surface near the leak by first cleaning it from rust and dirt.
  • Tear off the end of a whole roll of tape and attach it to the side of the crack being repaired.
  • Then, with winding movements, the electrical tape is placed on the problem area. When working, make sure that the material is tightly stretched and overlapped in a spiral.
  • Ultimately, the crack should be under a double layer of sealant.

Silicone sealant- a universal tool for sealing holes not only in cast iron, but also in plastic. To work with this material, you will need to perform a number of simple steps:

  • Before starting, inspect the surface of the pipe and make sure it is dry and clean.
  • Bring the tip of the gel tube and gently spread it over the entire surface of the crack, including the adjacent areas.
  • It should be applied in 2-3 layers, without smearing on the sides of the joint, but only slightly going beyond the boundaries of the problem area.

Silicone Sealant Moment

Experts advise squeezing out the sealant using a specially designed pistol device. If this is not the case, you can use a regular hammer.

Eventually

If problems arise in the cast iron sewer system, do not despair. There are many tools that will help eliminate the crack and avoid big trouble. Observing all the rules for working with the material, you can carry out high-quality sealing of the leak with your own hands.