Everything you need to assemble furniture. How to properly assemble furniture - step by step instructions with photo examples and videos

Sometimes assembling furniture with your own hands can be a real challenge. Depending on the design, the same cabinet or chest of drawers can test your nerves for strength. Usually, various problems arise during the first assembly, so we'll talk about the intricacies and features of the process.

Basic Rules

First of all, in order to assemble any piece of furniture well, it must be of high quality. Therefore, when accepting delivery, first of all, check the completeness of your order. Most often, a single piece of furniture, or a whole set, should be accompanied by a parts list, which will be the first part of your instructions for the correct assembly of furniture.

Before that, you should have accurately measured the place that the furniture you bought will occupy, so that in the end it does not turn out that the conventional cabinet simply does not fit in the right place.

Moreover, it must be taken into account that the same cabinet must also be assembled indoors, and the latter must be spacious enough to comfortably assemble with subsequent movements. Carpets should be removed, and the floor itself should be covered with something like a bedspread to protect the surface from damage.

Tool

No less important is the tool that is needed to assemble furniture - sometimes a simple screwdriver may be enough for you, in another case you may need a whole arsenal, it depends more on the size of the furniture and the complexity of the design.

Initial difficulty level

For simple pieces of furniture, you will need a simple tape measure, a hammer, a few screwdrivers (can be replaced with a screwdriver), a drill (situational), a hammer and a few wrenches. All this is enough to assemble the initial levels of complexity.

Complex structures

This category includes large pieces of furniture with large quantity parts, including moving ones, or furniture of complex shape. Photos of assembling furniture with your own hands, of this type, can often be found in magazines and catalogs.

For her, in addition to the above items, you may need: a level, a puncher with various drills, a furniture stapler, and the like.

Dresser

Let's consider the do-it-yourself furniture assembly scheme using the example of an ordinary chest of drawers. The item is very useful, and in any living room - it is difficult to imagine a bedroom or a nursery without it.

Previously, its role was performed by simple chests. The disadvantage of such a piece of furniture was very simple design- at its core, it was a box that was closed with a lid, which is very inconvenient for storing a large amount of clothes, despite the obvious capacity.

Its modern counterpart, a chest of drawers, is well suited not only for outerwear, but also for shoes, cosmetics and other things that the owner may need.

Blueprints

If speak about step by step assembly do-it-yourself furniture, it is always worth starting with drawings. First you need to decide on the place where the chest of drawers will stand - depending on this, it can be made higher or wider.

As for the assembly process itself, here the drawings, namely the graphical and textual description, will help you assemble the furniture not only correctly, but also quickly - usually they are simple instruction for assembly, which good stores complete with almost any piece of furniture.

For example, IKEA completes all its designs with all the necessary documentation, consumables in the form of self-tapping screws, bolts, and the like.

If there are fasteners in the kit that require a special tool (hexagon) - it is also put in the package.

back side

But not everyone buys furniture from IKEA and Hoff, and it often turns out that the furniture you bought does not have any fasteners in its kit, and sometimes even drawings. In this case, you will need a photo, looking at which you bought it all, nails, screws, a screwdriver, bolts of different sizes and a lot of patience.

Note!

Assembly

If you give advice on assembling furniture to a beginner, it is best to start it from the bottom or back wall. They are usually deaf and solid, so the rest of the parts are attached to them.

Most often, the chest of drawers has drawers, the guides of which will be more convenient to install until the walls are fixed and do not hinder movement. Next, you need to assemble the boxes themselves and install the fittings.

If you need to assemble something like a large wardrobe, then here you need to start by installing the frame - the bottom, the back wall, if any, the side walls and the top. Only then can the installation of internal parts begin.

In the case of small cabinets and shelving, it will be more convenient to assemble in free space on the floor or a large table, and then simply move it to the right place.

Note!

It is worth assembling carefully, but without fear - there is no need to rush, usually the manufacturer thinks through the assembly process for you, the main thing is to understand how he presents it.

DIY furniture assembly photo

Note!

The kitchen and wardrobe are almost the easiest types of furniture for beginners to assemble (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture on their own.

Wood in its pure form is almost never used in cabinet furniture; the array is considered an expensive elite material.

Now the tree is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated chipboard). Most often, these plates have a thickness of 16 mm, on sale you can also find laminated chipboard with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill the doors of wardrobes, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes with the help of elements from chipboard 22 mm they decorate the structure.

Almost all furniture parts are made of 16 mm chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

The cutting of chipboard is carried out on special machines along the guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home with a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy bumps on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off a chipboard exactly with a jigsaw at home.

edges

The most vulnerable spot of chipboard is its cut. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, therefore, with poor protection, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed with the help of edges, there are several types of them.

• • Melamine edge - the cheapest, but poor quality. You can stick it at home with an iron.

• • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can be glued only on a special machine, so they make it immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to invisible ends, and 2 mm to external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

• • ABS edging - similar to PVC, only made of environmentally friendly material.
  • Mortise T-profile - inserted into a groove previously made by a cutter. Rarely used.

• • Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued at home on liquid nails. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude by several millimeters, so dirt gets clogged under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

facades

Kitchen facades and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a wardrobe that no one will see, you can also use a regular 16 mm chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

You can easily navigate by standard sizes: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm front is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since the facades perform mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

• • Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture resistant and dense, compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated "under the tree." But no matter how strong the film is, over time at the edges it can move away and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

Facades from MDF

• • In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. Glass is attached to the lining on the reverse side.
  • Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with a relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

• • Postforming - even better and more durable products. Thin plastic is wrapped around the edges by 90° or 180°, which eliminates unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the basis. Usually, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

• • Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard / MDF), lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edging or aluminum profiles. Recently, super-gloss acrylic plastic has become especially popular.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

• • Facades made of wood and veneer are suitable for lovers of natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there are long disputes about environmental friendliness: it is believed that there are so many varnishes and impregnations here that only one name remains from the tree.

• • Enamel painted facades. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, has a low chemical resistance. They used to be popular for their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything has changed.

• Aluminum facades with glass - suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. For their fastening, non-standard fittings are used.

Back walls and drawer bottoms

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDPE. The smooth side of the sheet should look inside the cabinet / drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected according to the chipboard.

Some people prefer to attach HDF to a furniture stapler, but this cannot be done. Over time, the staples loosen and the structure can warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the boxes - the stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture HDPE

Sometimes it is inserted into the groove prepared by the cutter, but all dimensions must match to the millimeter.

Most often, HDPE is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you need to drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a "stiffening rib" in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Countertops

A countertop is a horizontal work surface on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as for cheap dining rooms, the countertop is made of the same chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is obligatory to frame the PVC with a 2 mm edge.

For the kitchen, special countertops are used. They are a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, which is covered with durable plastic on top using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops are green on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. A proper kitchen worktop should have a drip tray that will prevent dripping liquid from entering the fronts and drawers.

Weakness such countertops - the edge of the saw cut. Usually they are covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable in the first year of operation. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles ( end plate), and to protect against moisture, pre-lubricate the saw cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profile: angular and connecting strip, which are needed to dock several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for worktop

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, they are more practical due to the absence of seams and inexpensive compared to glass aprons.

The fastening of the tabletop to the cabinets is done from below with short self-tapping screws to the horizontal struts so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made of natural or artificial stone are of higher quality and more durable than others. Natural stone is heavy and requires special care due to its high porosity. BUT fake diamond does not have such shortcomings, it can be given any size and shape. Main disadvantage stone countertops- high price, for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a tile or porcelain stoneware countertop. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on ordinary plywood or chipboard. Previously, the base must be sheathed with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: covers, countertops, walls, facades, shelves. Each item can be either nested or invoiced. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Consider examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be suspended.

Floor cabinet:

As you can see in the photo, the operating voltage in the floor cabinet is directed downward from the cover and in the first version is naturally transmitted through the parts to the legs of the cabinet.

In the second, incorrect version, the load is transmitted through the confirm (furniture screw), and because of this, it will be pulled out of the part for a break.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we apply here the same fastening scheme as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under load to pull out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmers experience a fracture load (see the “correct” diagram).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware (metal products) that are used to connect parts. Most often, the connections are made at right angles.

• • Wooden dowels - inserted into pre-drilled holes in both parts. They are used for pre-fixing and strengthening the load "on the cut", then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

• • Furniture corners are a popular but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the minuses: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

furniture corner

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that the caps screwed flush remain in sight. To hide them, use plastic plugs in the color of chipboard.

furniture fittings

• • Handles - everything is clear here. Usually fastened with screws.
  • Legs - convenient in rooms where wet cleaning of the floor is often done, for example, in the kitchen. From daily contact with water, any wood, and especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate. In addition, due to the legs, furniture can be leveled on uneven surfaces.
  • A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. Sticks on the top and bottom of the door or cabinet end to soften the impact.

• • Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture shop if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of opening of the doors. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°.
    The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and landing depth. For glass doors separate hinges are sold, glass can be clamped into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

From inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, from serious world manufacturers - the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The easiest of them is to assemble the perimeter from chipboard. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed on top of the main frame from the inside (like the countertop). Also, the facade can be mounted on eccentrics as the fourth wall of the box.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to fix it correctly.

Guides for boxes are divided into roller or ball.

• • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the box. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely, a heavy drawer in the more than half open position can simply fall.
  • Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides” are capable of exactly doubling the length. They have many balls inside, like in bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

• In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of boxes with installed guides. It remains only to install the facade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and rear walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). The internal filling can be anything: ordinary shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

The main element of the wardrobe - sliding doors. You can’t save on them, you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise then you will be tormented with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city you can find domestic sliding systems Aristo is not a problem.

The sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame, inside which decorative elements are inserted: mirrors and glass, laminated chipboard, rattan, bamboo, artificial leather sheets (on the basis). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several of these materials, which are separated by an aluminum profile. In width, it is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m.

Standard profiles are designed for a web thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, a silicone sealant is put on the edge of the mirror. So that in the event of a blow, broken glass does not hurt anyone, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the wrong side.

The movement of the doors goes along the guides, they are installed from above and below. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a height adjustment screw. The top rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the right approach homemade furniture It's cheaper and better quality than what's available in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the features of the room.

Allow me to congratulate you!

The pleasant expectation regarding the delivery of custom-made products has become a reality. Finally, they brought a kitchen set or a set of upholstered, cabinet furniture - and soon you will be able to enjoy the desired purchase ...

In the meantime, the assembly of the brought kit is on the agenda. We proceed from the fact that the location of the units of the headset is determined in advance and does not require rearrangement and adjustment in size. For the kitchen environment, it is considered that the end edge is already glued, and there are holes for the hinges in the facades.

For kitchen

Before you start assembling furniture, you should prepare enough space so that it is convenient to lay out the disassembled furniture. By checking the performance of power tools, you will speed up the work being done. By spreading a film or packing cardboard on the floor, it will be possible to protect the surface from accidental scratching and complete the cleaning faster after the process is completed.

It is proposed to assemble furniture according to the nested scheme.

1. First, choose the details for the lower cabinets. Vertical walls are attached to the horizontal base (for this it is better to use euro ties), holders for shelves are placed inside. In boxes that are not pulled out, but slide out smoothly, roller guides are mounted.
2. Installation of facades is done when laying semi-assembled products on the back wall. It will be more convenient for two to perform this operation: one person marks the places for the holes for the screws, and the second at this time holds the loose cover.
3. The last step will be fixing the handle. Fasteners are included in the kit, so it remains to drill holes and put the handle in place.
4. All components of the kit are leveled.

For living room, bedroom, nursery, study

Room furniture sets, as well as kitchen sets, are delivered in a separate package. This is convenient, because parts from different designs will not be confused with each other.

The process is shown on the example of one of the elements of furniture. The set consists of cabinets of different designs, cabinets, chests of drawers. A significant difficulty is the installation of a cupboard (this work is definitely not for beginners).

If you think that you are able to correctly “read” the diagrams and drawings of furniture assembly, you are confident in your abilities, then you can start independent work. But remember that this will void the warranty on the furniture.

a) Having estimated the time that it may take to assemble, add at least 30-50% more to it. For example, for a kitchen, depending on the degree of technical complexity, it may take from 5 hours to a couple of days. For beginners, it’s better to double-triple this value, because you have to understand every little thing.

b) Do you hope to borrow the missing tool from your neighbors? And if they don’t have it either, or people won’t be home at the right time? Contact companies that offer power tool rentals.

c) Do-it-yourself furniture assembly is a protracted event. It is better to allocate time on the weekend, from 11 o'clock. Evening manipulations with a drill or screwdriver, which can drag on for several hours, are unlikely to contribute to building relationships with neighbors.

d) Having unpacked the box with a clerical knife along the glued adhesive tape, check the list of accessories and especially the fasteners according to the list. Partially, their absence will negatively affect the speed of work.

e) Two additional hands will not be superfluous. Feel free to ask a family member, friend, or neighbor for help.

f) For drawers, the manufacturer makes the required marks on the furniture parts. It is better to mount the attachment point of the movable mechanism before starting the assembly of the frame.

g) The edge side must be in the right place, otherwise you have to do it all over again. The situation may repeat itself if you have fixed similar details in the wrong place.

h) Glasses and mirrors, for the sake of safety, are placed on the products last. Assembling luxury furniture requires special knowledge and it is better to use the help of experienced craftsmen.

i) To tighten the confirmed bolts, a special key is put into the set at the factory. When there is a lot of such work to be done and you want to speed it up, it is reasonable to buy a hex bit for a power tool.

When the order arrives, do not be too lazy to open each box and see if everything is on the list, if there are any damages during transportation. If something is missing or a part breaks on the road, ask for a replacement. Only then sign the delivery document.

Accuracy, attentiveness and slowness are the basic rules that must be followed in the work. After all, extra holes and scratches will not add beauty to the product, and distortions will deprive you of pleasure with further use of the headset.

The slightest uncertainty own forces with a great desire to prove to yourself and your loved ones that you are not born with a bastard, it is easily eliminated if you go online and type “furniture assembly video” in the search engine. Lots of useful information will allow you to study incomprehensible moments and see how professionals deal with it.

How to assemble furniture

In order to save money and time searching for the right model, users with building or carpentry skills can make furniture with their own hands.

What should be taken care of before making furniture?

When assembling furniture with your own hands, you need to think in advance about the appearance of the object and decide in which part of the apartment it will be placed. These data will help determine the most suitable materials and accessories. Drawings are another important part of the process. After creating sketches with parameters and purchasing tools and building materials, you can proceed to direct installation. It is better to strictly adhere to the original idea and be attentive to all calculations, otherwise hand-made furniture may turn out to be sloppy.

The most important thing in the manufacture of furniture is a drawing.

Step 1 - Furniture Assembly Tools

For work, you will not need a special room and expensive equipment, but before assembling furniture with your own hands, you still need to stock up on tools that may come in handy during work. Recommended minimum for beginners:

• electric screwdriver;
• drill for loops with a diameter of 2.6 cm;
• nozzle or key, as well as a special drill for confirmations;
• drills with diameters of 4.5, 7.5 and 10 mm;
• awl, tape measure, ruler, pencil;
• rubber or wooden mallet;
• sandpaper (fine-grained).

For those who have extensive experience in making furniture with their own hands, it would be useful to purchase an electric drill, an electric jigsaw, a building hair dryer and an iron, a professional router, a stationery knife, a joint knife and a Forstner drill with a diameter of 15 mm for drilling holes for minifixes.

Step 2 - selection of materials for future furniture design

Today the market offers the widest range, including various price categories. Natural solid wood is now considered an expensive elite material, they have given way to modern slabs, consisting of only partly wood. There are several most requested options for .

Furniture from laminated chipboard

Laminated chipboard boards have taken a leading position as the main material for the manufacture of do-it-yourself cabinet furniture. They are a relatively cheap composite material resulting from the hot pressing of wood shavings. The standard thickness of such plates is 16 mm, but you can find 1 and 22 mm. From thicker slabs, decorative elements and the main details of cabinets and bookshelves are cut out, where needed. high rate bending strength.

Chipboard processing is usually carried out on special machines. You can resort to a jigsaw and try to cut them at home, yourself, but this will not work out smoothly: bumps and chips will be visible on the details. Such defects will subsequently be very noticeable, and they will have to be masked. For this reason, it is better to entrust the manufacture of parts to professionals.

Fiberboard furniture

Fibreboard is a lower quality and aesthetically pleasing material compared to chipboard. AT furniture production it is used for finishing the back walls and as the bottom of drawers. The thickness of these sheets varies between 3-5 mm. The plate has two surfaces: smooth and rough. One of the rules for making furniture with your own hands: smooth side sheet looks inside the drawer / cabinet. The color should be as close as possible to the shade of the main furniture material (chipboard).

It is not recommended to attach fiberboard sheets to a furniture stapler, since such a design will turn out to be unstable and loosen over time. The bottom of furniture drawers can be mounted in a groove prepared by a cutter, if all dimensions match up to a millimeter. The most popular fastening method is self-tapping screws or nails.

MDF furniture

A plate consisting of finely dispersed chips pressed under high pressure and temperature. A malleable material, it is well processed by a router, it is often used as a furniture facade (external part). Basic Features:

• high density;
• good moisture resistance;
• flexibility;
• ability to withstand temperature extremes;
• resistance to microbial attack.

The thickness of MDF boards varies from 3 to 38 mm.

Assembling furniture from natural wood- not the most practical idea, since the wood mass is several times more expensive than the above price categories. It is better to entrust the work with this material to specialists.

furniture fittings

Accessories are small, but important elements, without which the furniture will not be able to perform its functions. You should not save on this part, since the service life and the overall level of performance of the future self-assembled structure depend on the quality of the purchased fittings.

Furniture handles are attached with screws. Guides (roller and telescopic, or ball) play an important role in the assembly of drawers, because they give them the correct direction of movement.

To soften the impact when closing and reduce the noise level, silicone dampers are installed on the inner sides of the furniture doors (or end face). Legs are an optional detail, but in some cases can greatly extend the life of the furniture and adjust its optimal position on an uneven floor.

The hinges affect the opening degree of the drawer doors. The standard is 180° for opening and 90° for closing. If the manufacturer has not made additives (cutouts for hinges), then they can be added in any furniture workshop. For glass doors, you need to purchase special hinges that can hold it without drilling holes.

Fasteners for furniture

Fasteners and their types require special attention. These are metal products, which ultimately are of decisive importance for furniture, since it is they that ensure its strength, geometric correctness and stability.

Dowels made of wood

Are applied to preliminary and intermediate fixing and strengthening of loading "on a cut". The dowels are inserted into the drilled holes in both fastened pieces of furniture. Later, the parts are attached in a more reliable method.

iron corners

A slightly outdated mounting system that fully justifies its cheapness with an unattractive appearance, bulkiness and loosening after some time.

Confirmat, or furniture screw

A modern fastener that has replaced ordinary self-tapping screws due to large threads: because of this, the screws hold tighter in the chipboard. The main disadvantages of this type is the need to use a special drill with different diameters for the thread, head and neck of the euro screw, as well as heads that remain visible. The master will have to select plastic plugs to match the color of the furniture body.

One of the most relevant methods of fastening today. The main advantage of eccentric couplers is that they leave drilling marks only on the inside of the product. For this mount, you will need the aforementioned Forstner drill. The method is time consuming and is great for sliding furniture doors. In other cases, it is worth stopping at simpler and less expensive options.

Selection of edges and furniture fronts

These elements perform an aesthetic function, so you need to choose them wisely. It is not difficult to make beautiful cabinet furniture that will look expensive if you carefully select decorative parts.

Edge

The security of the cuts of the body plates, and, consequently, the strength of the furniture, depends on the correct choice of this part. If you do not take care of high-quality insulation, moisture can easily penetrate into the furniture structure and destroy them from the inside.

There are several options, one of the best for making furniture with your own hands is a PVC edge. This finish does not require special skills or professional equipment. Standard sizes: 0.4 and 2 mm. In order to save money, a thin edge is glued to the ends that are inaccessible to the eyes, and 2 mm to the outer ones, which will be subjected to heavy loads and friction.

Other advantages of this type of furniture finishing:

• Melamine edging: A cheap but impractical option. Glued with a regular iron.
• ABS - similar to PVC, but made from an environmentally friendly material.
• The laid on P-profile is glued to liquid nails. Impractical due to the accumulation of dirt at the junction, but helps to hide the defects of a bad cut.
• Mortise T-profile - rarely used, inserted into the groove made by the cutter.

Front part of furniture

Kitchen facades and drawer doors are the “face” of furniture, so they should look much more presentable than other details that are not so conspicuous. To make this element with your own hands means to save time, since usually such things are made to order, and the wait can take several months.

Concerning technical subtleties, the façade part is standardly made 2 mm smaller on each side of the main body. So, for furniture with a width of 600 mm, a facade with a width of 596 mm is suitable. The raw material of the decorative part is different from that of the main body.

Among the cheapest facades are laminated MDF panels with a short service life. Mostly found finish "under the tree." Softforming, which is gaining popularity, is similar to MDF, but differs in two-color layout and relief on both sides of the panel. Such furniture is suitable only for dry rooms (bedroom, living room). You can often see non-standard facades with curly stained glass cutouts. It is customary to mount glass on an overlay with inside doors.

This is a high-quality, durable decoration. Differs in the severity of forms, performed without aesthetic excesses. MDF or chipboard plates are taken as the basis, which are covered with thin seamless plastic. plastic facade- Another expensive, but extremely practical option.

Characteristics:

• smooth surface (glossy, matte);
• concise design;
• ABS edging or aluminum profile.

At the peak of popularity are now super glossy acrylic panels for making furniture with your own hands.

wood and veneer

Expensive, but natural materials. There is an opinion that from an environmental point of view, the option loses, since it contains a lot of varnish and impregnations. The painted facade “under the enamel” is becoming less and less common. The saturated color, which was so appreciated before, also appeared in competitors, for example, in acrylic. A significant disadvantage of such furniture is that it is unstable to deformation and scratches.

Aluminum-glass facades

The best method when making furniture with your own hands in high-tech style.

Preparation of drawings for the manufacture of furniture

Assembly drawings are a personal guide during the workflow. If you pay due attention to this part at the preparatory stage, then the master will not have to frantically make calculations and be afraid to attach something in the wrong place. You can make the task of assembling easier by sketching everything on a simple sheet of paper by hand or using.

It should be remembered that the drawing must be intelligible and readable, at least for the person who will assemble the furniture.

Calculation and detailing

It is impossible to make cabinet furniture with your own hands without taking into account the consumption of materials. This stage requires the compilation of a detailed list of what material each part will be made of, indicating its parameters. The sheet is given to the nearest available workshop, where all elements will be sawn and primary processed (edge).

The list should include expendable materials on the body, fittings, fasteners. So you can easily calculate the final cost of furniture, taking into account the services of the workshop. The price of a thing made by one's own hands at home is 30–35% less than the retail price in stores.

Furniture assembly technology

Any furniture should begin to be constructed with your own hands from the main frame, that is, from the largest details, gradually adding small ones. Bookcase collection example:

1. After the preparatory stage, the side, upper and lower walls of the frame are connected and the diagonal is aligned.
2. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the back of the fiberboard is attached.
3. The third stage is the fastening of the shelves. Confirmates guarantee a stronger connection.
4. The places of the side walls spoiled by hardware from the outside can be decorated with plugs that match in color.
5. Now it's the turn of additional internal details, for example, shelves can have drawers (additional partitions).
6. The decorative parts (linings, facade, etc.) are mounted last.

According to the same scheme, beds, kitchen cabinets, wardrobes and other home furniture are assembled. When using an injury-prone electrical equipment generally accepted security measures are followed.

In order to make furniture yourself, you need to have a desire, a little care, time and basic knowledge in the field of construction. If everything is done correctly, the result will be an exclusive and functional piece of decor that will last long years and will fit perfectly into the interior of the apartment.

Today, residential furniture is not cheap, so many are trying to find a way to save a little on its purchase. But you should not opt ​​for a cheap low-quality product, there is another way out. To save on furniture, you can opt for cabinet models and try to assemble them yourself after purchase. To do this, you need to know what tools will be required and how the correct assembly of cabinet furniture should be carried out without the help of a specialist.

Benefit from self assembly cabinet furniture is obvious: a person gets the opportunity to save on wages of a furniture master. Also, for many, this process will simply be interesting to remove. We will describe in detail what tools you may need in the process of assembling cabinet furniture on your own.

Actual tool for assembly and adaptation:

• a screwdriver of 12, 14 or 18 volts (with a bit for confirmations) is the main tool that will be needed during the assembly and installation of cabinet furniture;
• PZ bits of different sizes for self-tapping screws: PZ1 for fixing self-tapping screws Ф3 mm, PZ2 in case of using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5-5 mm, PZ4 for mounting eccentric couplers Ф15 mm;
• confirmation drill for organizing holes for hardware;
• awl;
• a simple pencil for marking furniture parts, a ruler;
• cutter for hinges.

What fasteners will be needed is also extremely important to understand, especially for an inexperienced furniture maker. The most popular options are products of different sizes with cross slots. We describe the most popular of them below.

Assembly technology

To facilitate the work process, you should read some popular manual on assembling a cabinet or bed of a cabinet type, watch a video. To save time, we will describe how cabinet furniture is assembled on our own and without the help of an experienced furniture maker.

Today, you can use several types of assembly of a piece of furniture:

• eccentric tie is an assembly method with high reliability of connections and the absence of hats from hardware on outer sides furniture surfaces. The technology is also very popular because the design of the product remains neat. Although it is worth admitting that the assembly process using this method can take quite a long time. Especially if there is not much experience in such matters;
• the furniture corner is considered an outdated way, so it is extremely rare today. And all because such connections look somewhat sloppy. The use of a furniture corner is considered justified only if an economy class piece of furniture is created;
• furniture dowel is used for pieces of furniture on which significant loads are not expected. To create such connections, it will be necessary to organize holes for the diameter of the dowel, located at the ends of the product. Further, using the adhesive composition, the parts are connected into single item interior. Obviously, it will not be possible to disassemble the assembled structure;
• Confirmat is an assembly of a Euro-screw or furniture screw, which is distinguished by its simplicity, efficiency, and economy. To complete the work, you will need screws and plugs with which you can veil the hat.

Scheme and drawings

It is extremely important not to disturb the assembly sequence of the parts of the future design. Therefore, you should first read the instructions for assembling cabinet furniture with drawings. Then the assembly of cabinet furniture with your own hands will bring not only the sea positive emotions, will save your own money, but will also provide you with beautiful and solid furniture.

The assembly diagram will allow you to understand when and how this or that part is used. Each part of the future piece of furniture, the place of its bonding with another part, as well as the fittings relevant to it, have their own symbol. This makes the process easier.

Often, furniture is packed in several small-sized boxes, which you should not rush to unpack everything at the same time. Otherwise, you can mix up the details. Sectional headsets should be assembled sequentially, referring to drawings, templates. First, the lower sections, then hanging cabinets with facades, open shelves.

Assembly of the case and fastening of the back wall

Installing shelf supports and drawer rails

Sliding door installation

Common mistakes

Often, all the information necessary for work contains instructions for assembling a particular piece of furniture, which is attached to it in the kit. If you violate the manufacturer's recommendations specified in this document, you can get quite serious problems, some of which can make it impossible long-term operation piece of furniture.

Common mistakes that inexperienced furniture makers make:

• carelessly placed markup entails errors in the docking of individual furniture parts. Treat this issue with increased attention;
• the back of the cabinet is confused with the front, the left side with the right. Also, often the facade is attached to the body on the wrong side. If we are talking about an experienced assembler, then such mistakes can hardly be expected from such a person. In the case of the first attempt to assemble the cabinet on your own without the help of a master, it is quite possible to confuse the bottom with the roof;
• before fixing the parts into a single whole, number them according to the assembly diagram;
• very often, the connecting fittings are not tightened to the limit, which provokes the appearance of gaps in the places where the two parts are connected. But overdoing it is also not recommended, otherwise you can ruin the mounting socket;
• do not neglect the issue of organizing holes for hardware. If they are crooked, the connections of individual parts of the future body will turn out to be unreliable, and the parts themselves may crack.

Sandpaper is suitable as a material for cleaning surfaces.

In work, you can use a power tool, which simplifies the attachment of one or another part to the body

In the manufacture of cabinet furniture, please note that laminated chipboard may crumble during insertion of fasteners

Select fasteners after you decide on the base material

Location of buildings

Depending on the size of the piece of furniture, the features of its assembly will differ. A tall cabinet can be assembled in a lying or standing position of the structure. The first option is easier to implement. To determine if a piece of furniture can be fastened in a lying position, lift the side wall of the piece up and lean it against the wall. If the part does not touch the ceiling with an angle, then it will be much easier to work. After assembly, the structure can be lifted and installed in the desired location.