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Inspection pit overlapping shield drawing. Inspection hole size

An inspection hole in the garage helps out many motorists, with the help of which you can carry out minor repairs and maintenance, make a detailed inspection of the lower part of the car, and diagnose the chassis. But in order to properly make a hole, it is necessary to fulfill certain conditions, to follow a certain order of work.

If the inspection pit (SP) is not done according to the rules, it will be inconvenient to use, it can be flooded with water, and it is unlikely to last long. In the article we will consider what criteria should be followed when creating a SA, the procedure, necessary materials, tool, existing construction technology.

Where to start making a viewing hole

Any structure always begins with calculations, before proceeding with digging a pit, it is necessary to determine in advance:

  • dimensions;
  • the place where the pit will be located;
  • materials used (brick or concrete).

It should be said that it is easier to make a SA when there is no garage, and it is only in the project, especially in cases where groundwater is at a depth higher underground than 2.5 m, since in this case drainage work is required. If the waters lie too high under finished garage possibly from viewing hole will have to be abandoned, since drainage will be very problematic.

So let's start with the dimensions:

  • length - usually taken about one meter more than a standard car. If the garage is intended for the repair and maintenance of passenger cars, a typical size of 4.5 m is implied, which means that the length of the pit should be approximately 5.5 meters;
  • width - should not be too small, it is necessary that an adult can fit comfortably in the SA, it cannot be wide, otherwise not every passenger car will be able to drive into the pit without the risk of falling down, having left the track. Usually the width is taken 0.75-0.8 m, this is the most typical size;
  • depth - calculated taking into account the height of an adult male (170-180 cm) plus a margin for convenient inspection and repair (15-20 cm), a typical pit depth is 1.85-2.00 m.

In general, builders always try to dig a little deeper - to reduce the depth quite easily with the help of stands, laying an additional layer of material at the bottom. But it is difficult to deepen the pit, since it is necessary to destroy the lower layer, re-lay out the floor, carry out hydro and thermal insulation.

With your own hands, you can make a pit of various designs:

  • ordinary, with a floor and reinforced walls;
  • with niches in which it will be possible to lay out the tool, small parts removed from the machine;
  • with a cellar for economic or domestic needs.

The pit is always dug with a margin not only in depth, but also in width and height, since it is necessary to expect that all surfaces will be reinforced with concrete or brick, waterproofing will have to be done, in ideal It would be nice to provide for thermal insulation.

How to make a floor in a garage pit

Having made a drawing of a hole, you can start digging it, but if a concrete floor has already been laid in the garage, it will have to be cut and partially removed, for this you will need Circular Saw with discs for stone, a jackhammer, in extreme cases, you can use a hammer drill with a chisel. The future pit is marked with chalk, a corner is used to create straight lines.

When digging a hole of the required size, we use a building indicator or a plumb line, it is necessary that the walls are even, and the earth should be taken out immediately outside the garage. Then we are closely engaged in the floor in the pit of the garage, at the bottom we create a pillow support:

  • lay out an even layer of rubble (approximately 5-10 cm thick);
  • ramming, pouring a layer of sand;
  • on top of the “layer cake” we cover with clay, we lay roofing material;
  • for strength, we place reinforcement on top;
  • pour the resulting structure with concrete mortar, let it dry.

Concrete can be made from various components and in different proportions, the most classic composition of the mixture is three parts building sand and one part dry cement. A layer of waterproofing is laid out on top of the concrete, all sorts of options are also possible here, there are several recipes. After the waterproofing layer, it will not be superfluous to take care of thermal insulation; sheet foam is usually used for this purpose. Then the whole structure is re-poured with concrete (layer 15-20 mm), after laying it is necessary that the solution is thoroughly dry.

Laying out the walls of the pit

When forming the side surfaces of the SA, clay is applied to the walls with the first layer, then a polyethylene film is fixed on it, and roofing material is spread. As in the option with the floor, a waterproofing coating is also provided here, the material can be single-layer or multi-layer polymer plates, bitumen, liquid rubber, mineral mixtures, and so on. If thermal insulation is needed, we lay foam, it is important to carefully process all joints and seams during hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to ensure tightness. When laying walls with concrete, it is necessary:

  • make formwork, it is made of wooden blocks, plywood or edged boards;
  • before pouring, reinforce with a steel mesh with a rod diameter of 10-12 mm;
  • pour the concrete solution, after it has completely dried, remove the formwork;
  • if necessary, make niches in the walls.

If lighting is provided in the pit, care must be taken to lay internal wiring, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation, and they are usually fixed to a reinforced mesh before pouring with concrete (for example, with plastic ties). The solution is not poured all at once, but in several stages from the bottom up in sections of 0.3-0.4 m, each layer must be allowed to dry (concreting can take from two to three days). Also, the walls can be laid out of brick, but here a slightly different technology is already required.

How to lay out the walls in a brick pit

Before laying out the walls with bricks, in the same way as when working with concrete, side surfaces first they are smeared with red clay, a polyethylene film, roofing felt, hydro- and heat-insulating layer are laid. Laying is carried out subject to the following conditions:

  • bricks are placed in a checkerboard pattern;
  • masonry is carried out in one layer along the width of the brick;
  • the seams are carefully rubbed, and the corners are made in a reliable bundle;
  • the upper brick row should protrude above the surface of the structure by about 5-10 cm. This is done so that the car cannot fall into the pit, and also so that the tool does not slip into it.

When laying out a brick pit, one must not forget about niches; for convenience, formwork can be built (but not necessary). Immediately after the work is done, it is impossible to use the pit, it is necessary to wait about five days for the mortar to set well and dry out, and the masonry to settle.

How to properly waterproof a pit in a garage

Waterproofing protection is a very important component of the inspection hole, especially when the groundwater runs high enough in the ground. At high humidity:

  • the pit can be heated by water;
  • the bottom of the car, constantly located on the SA, begins to rust;
  • with insufficiently high-quality insulation, the excavated pit gradually collapses and becomes unusable.

In order for the inspection pit to serve for a long time, it is necessary to make the waterproofing of the pit in the garage very high quality, use materials that could provide waterproofing on long years. As waterproofing materials are usually used:

  • various types of roofing materials;
  • bituminous mixture (designed for 10-15 years of building service);
  • polymer film (geotextile, can serve for more than a dozen years);
  • mineral dry mixes, diluted with water before direct use;
  • liquid rubber on latex based, its service life is from 20 years or more;
  • a mixture of petroleum products with liquid clay (for the initial treatment of walls and floors).

If groundwater passes high enough, even high-quality waterproofing does not guarantee reliable protection against moisture, only a well-executed one will help here. drainage system with water diversion into a natural or artificial reservoir.

Construction of a pit in the garage according to all the rules

To competently make a hole in accordance with all the rules, it is not enough just to dig a foundation pit, strengthen the walls and floor, it is also necessary:

  • install natural and forced ventilation;
  • install electric lights;
  • build a shelter (mortgage frame), it will protect against accidental falling into a pit;
  • think over the descent system (build a removable ladder or lay steps in the pit).

An even more “advanced” option is to make a cellar in a viewing hole, in which case it will be possible to store pickles for the winter, fresh vegetables in the garage.

How to make a vegetable pit in the garage

If there is already an inspection hole in the garage, the cellar is made separately, at the other end of the room or next to it, usually it is located at a small distance from the wall, about half a meter, and unlike the CL, it has slightly different dimensions:

  • length - 2.5-3 m;
  • width - 2-2.5 m;
  • depth - about 1.7 m.

The dimensions of the cellar may differ from the above dimensions, it all depends on the size of the garage itself. In this building, a hermetic manhole cover must be provided, ladder(it is better to make it out of wood). The cellar should include:

  • moisture protection;
  • ventilation;
  • sleepy sinus.

The vegetable pit is supplemented with electricity and thermal insulation at will; before construction, it is important to foresee two points:

  • you need to make sure that power wires do not pass under the future cellar, there is no water supply or gas pipeline;
  • groundwater must pass below the foundation level of the proposed vegetable pit.

As in the case of creating a SA for the cellar, we also first dig a foundation pit, then:

  • sprinkle on the bottom and tamp a layer of rubble, about 10-12 cm;
  • we lay the next layer - building sand (about 15 cm), careful tamping is also required here;
  • we fill the bottom of the pit with bitumen or other similar composition, if waterproofing is necessary, roofing material is installed (other similar material can also be used);
  • we fill it with concrete, for structural strength it is desirable to reinforce it;
  • we give the concrete mortar a good grip and dry, then we strengthen the walls - we fill it with concrete or lay it out with bricks (the latter option is most preferable).

The standard wall thickness is one and a half bricks; for strength and better waterproofing, we coat the masonry with bituminous mortar. The walls of the pit must be very strong, because the car can be placed anywhere in the garage, and it is undesirable to leave it for storage in a viewing hole.

The ceiling in the cellar is made in the form of a vault, in order to hold the ceiling bricks during construction, they are laid out on a plank template. The upper part of the cellar can be made of concrete, as long as it is strong, and the hole is usually made in the middle. In a vegetable pit, the ceiling is often insulated, foam and expanded clay are used as materials to fix the insulation layer, it is poured with hot bitumen. Also, glass wool, sawdust with cement are used for insulation, thermal insulation can not be used in mild and warm climates.

In the cellar, it is necessary to make shelves for food supplies, containers for storing vegetables. Shelves are usually made of boards and beams, the ventilation of the room is mainly provided by natural ventilation. Forced ventilation provides air circulation more efficiently, but also requires more significant financial costs. Usually, an electric fan is used for forced exhaust, it is mounted directly in the ventilation pipe.

Pit thermal insulation

In a fairly cold climate, thermal insulation in the garage is of considerable importance, the addition of a thermal insulation layer allows you to save on heating, provide more comfortable temperature in room. As a heat-insulating material, extruded polystyrene, polystyrene is mainly used, and an expanded clay pillow also helps to keep warm.

Usually foam is laid on top vapor barrier film then poured with concrete. Expanded clay is laid on the bottom of the inspection hole, playing the role of not only a heater, but also a stabilizer of the floor of the building.

The location of the cellar and pit for the car

An inspection hole in the garage may have different arrangement, be placed both in the center and closer to the edge. Being in the center is convenient if the garage is narrow enough, and it does not have or at least a minimum of workbenches, tables, other furniture, there is no separate room. When a small auto repair shop is organized in garage conditions, it is more convenient to move the pit to one edge, but so that a car can safely and freely enter it. The cellar can be located anywhere, of course, if there is no viewing hole in the garage. When a pit is available, it is advisable to place the cellar at the end of the garage room, behind the SA.

Garage drainage system

A water drainage system is necessary in case of high levels ground water, increased soil moisture. Drainage can be made according to various schemes, but there are basic rules for its construction:

  • the drainage trench is dug deep to the level of the foundation of the pit;
  • ditches should be located outside the garage, somewhere at a distance of half a meter from the building along its perimeter;
  • a drainage well is required for drainage;
  • drainage pipes are a single closed system with water drainage.

To prevent damage to the drainage system, a sand and gravel cushion is laid from below in the trench with a layer of about 10 cm, then the pipeline is covered with a geotextile film. A ravine can serve as a drainage well, if there are no natural recesses near the garage, any suitable container must be used, observing the conditions:

  • the well should be located lower than 20 cm from the level of the lowest point of the pipeline;
  • the outlet pipe of the drainage system must be suitable for the tank;
  • as a water storage tank, a plastic container is mainly used, an iron vessel is prone to rust, will fail much faster and will not be able to work for its intended purpose.

A sand and gravel cushion is also made on top of the drainage pipes, the soil should be compacted over the drainage carefully, trying not to damage the pipeline, water from the garage should be drained to a distance of at least 5 meters.

Pit lighting

Lamps in the inspection pit provide comfortable working conditions, as lighting fixtures commonly used:

  • stationary lamps in plafonds, designed for a voltage of 36 or 220 volts;
  • carrying, it is better if it is with a long wire;
  • low-power 12-volt lamps;
  • LED lights;
  • Rechargeable LED lamps.

Lighting 36-volt devices - the most popular lamps for cars repair work, as a rule, are made in a waterproof case, safe to use. Quite often, 220 Volt lamps are also installed in the garage, since they do not require a step-down transformer, but here you have to take care of reliable grounding, and it is necessary to work with such lamps, observing safety precautions.

Rechargeable lighting devices are quite expensive, difficult to repair, but sometimes you can’t do without them, for example, if there is no stationary power in the garage. Alternatively, you can arrange the transfer by taking a voltage of 12 V from car battery, but in this case the light will be quite dim.

Pit closing

The cover covering the pit can be made of various materials:

  • welded metal bars;
  • edged board;
  • plastic.

It can also be made from combined materials. The two most important qualities of a pit shelter are strength and light weight, the design should be easy to move away and support the weight of a person. If the car is often or for a long time left in the pit, it is advisable to make a tight cover, for example, from a forty board / bars, in this case, moisture will practically not settle on the bottom of the car.

The wooden shield should be sanded, impregnated with varnish, and the metal sanded and painted, such a frame will last a long time, will not rust or rot. For ease of removal and installation, the cover should be supplemented with one or two handles; a folding mechanism can also be provided in the design.

Pit ventilation in the garage

The type of ventilation largely depends on the size of the garage; for sufficiently large garage structures, you can limit yourself to natural ventilation; for small rooms, forced ventilation is necessary. The exhaust opening is almost always made from above, near the ceiling, in the room it is closed with a metal or plastic grill, forced ventilation installed below, no higher than 0.5 m from the floor.

They try to make an exhaust hole for natural ventilation on the leeward side, usually it is protected from rain and snow by a garage roof from the outside. Power for the electric fan is taken from the local power supply or battery, the direction of movement of the blades is selected empirically.

Pit making tools

The number of tools used when digging a viewing hole depends on the complexity of the installation, at least you will need:

  • measuring tape;
  • chalk for marking;
  • bayonet / shovels;
  • containers for diluting solutions (buckets, barrels);
  • building level or plumb;
  • pick;
  • electric drill;
  • a hammer;
  • large ruler, measuring corner;
  • surface treatment materials - sandpaper, floats, etc.

If you need to heat up the bitumen, you will need gas-burner, cook cement mortar easier and faster with a concrete mixer. Also additionally most often required:

  • welding machine;
  • angle grinder;
  • knife or scissors for cutting materials;
  • bitumen roller.

If you have to dismantle the concrete floor, you can not do without a concrete cutter, a jackhammer or a powerful puncher. When cutting a concrete slab, it should be taken into account that steel reinforcement is located under the concrete layer (at a depth of about 50-100 mm), it will have to be cut with a circular saw.

Materials used

Almost any normally equipped inspection pit will require concrete, it can be:

  • cement-sand mortar in the ratio of cement / sand 1:3 or 1:4;
  • a mixture of cement, building sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1/3/4.5 (rough concrete).

Also for the manufacture of walls and floors will need:

  • crushed stone, gravel;
  • expanded clay;
  • slurry;
  • waterproofing materials (roofing material, bituminous mastic and resin);
  • vapor barrier film;
  • steel corner / channel;
  • boards and wooden beams;
  • thermal insulation materials (polystyrene, polypropylene, glass wool, etc.);
  • steel bars or finished reinforced grating;
  • nails;
  • brick (in case of brickwork).

If a drainage system is provided, you will need pvc pipes, connecting parts, possibly a reservoir for a manhole. To give an aesthetic appearance viewing hole outside can be decorated tiles or other decorative materials.

The service life of the SA to a large extent depends on the quality of the materials used, the accuracy of the workers, the thoroughness of the waterproofing, and compliance with all construction rules. A well-made inspection pit will last for more than a dozen years, it will be very useful when carrying out repairs, car maintenance, for example, with its help it is very convenient to change the oil in the engine, gearbox, and repair the chassis.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The presence of a viewing hole in the garage provides the possibility of carrying out self repair own car. You can make it with minimal knowledge in the field of construction and the presence detailed instructions. Using step by step master class, it will not be difficult to accurately and efficiently prepare and independent construction pits, regardless of the size and layout of the garage.

Determination of the optimal dimensions and shape of the inspection pit

The finished inspection pit should be both safe and convenient to use. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to study the geological survey data on the state of the soil and the location of groundwater under the garage. This will determine the optimal depth of the pit. If the groundwater is quite deep, then the recommended height from the floor to the "ceiling" may be about 2 m or less (owner's height + 20-30 cm). Please refer to the drawing for dimensions.

An inspection pit is made in the garage with your own hands after drawing up a project plan for the facility. Its width is determined according to the wheelbase of the car: it should be smaller, ensuring the safe arrival of the car. The length should be at least 1 meter longer than the length of the car: this will allow you to work comfortably in the pit.

Allows the device of a viewing hole the presence of small niches. They can be used to store parts, convenient location of tools. They should not be made too deep. The sizes of niches are recommended to be determined according to the available number of auto tools and spare parts.

Laying walls and niches in the viewing hole

After digging a foundation pit with predetermined dimensions, you should begin to strengthen the walls, protect them and then lay the bricks. The use of bricks is optimal due to the ease of working with it and ease of purchase. How to build a viewing hole in the garage from the most affordable building materials can be found in the following instructions:

1. First you need to make the floor of the inspection hole in the garage: level the bottom of the pit, lay roofing material (with a swim on the walls of about 0.5 m for each of them). Concreting is carried out with the M-200 brand, the floor thickness should be about 10 cm. The size of the length and width of the floor should include the sum of the thickness of the two walls, the length / width of the pit itself and an increase of 10 cm. After pouring, leave the concrete to harden for 4 days.

2. The withdrawal of walls begins with the laying of 4 rows and the subsequent waterproofing of the inspection pit from the outside with bituminous mastic. This will eliminate the destruction of the walls due to moisture from the ground cover adjacent to the brick. After laying out the walls, you need to fill in the remaining indent from the ground to the brick.

3. The final stage of work will be the installation of a metal frame around the entrance to the pit. It should protrude slightly above the floor level of the garage box.

Niche frames should also be made of a metal corner. This will prevent subsidence of bricks or their destruction.

Features of the ventilation device and the choice of stairs

High-quality ventilation in the inspection hole of the garage will prevent the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the walls. It can be made exclusively exhaust or supply and exhaust. In the first case, when laying out the last rows of bricks, it is necessary to install a pipe that will allow air to be removed from the pit through the garage box upwards (it will go to the garage ventilation pipe or be led directly to the street). In the second case, an additional pipe is installed, which is diverted to the outside. Its end should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor.

You can make a comfortable ladder for a viewing hole from wood, metal corners. For a small block, a repositionable ladder will be much more convenient. On the attached photos you can also see examples of pits in which the steps were laid out of brick or concreted.

Summing up lighting

In the process of laying niches, it is necessary to bring a wire to 36V in an insulating rubber hose. This will allow you to connect the light in the pit and conveniently carry out car lighting during repairs. It is advisable, when performing these stages of work, to invite a qualified electrician who will help to correctly determine the optimal location of the wire and guarantee its protection, and will correctly connect it to the power supply. When doing the work yourself, you should study the auxiliary video tutorials on creating the right lighting in the viewing hole.

Do-it-yourself video of building a viewing hole in the garage



In the garage room, the viewing hole becomes simply irreplaceable. With it, you can regularly carry out an almost professional technical inspection, make a planned replacement of parts, as well as repairs, if necessary. Of course, if a car enthusiast devotes enough time to his car, repairs and inspects it himself, he just needs to equip the room accordingly. Today we will learn how bricks can be built. Let's define all the most important stages, helpful tips, find out which algorithm to build a pit. In addition, we will consider a specific algorithm for building a viewing hole made of bricks.

First of all, it will be necessary to carry out complex preparatory work. Now we will highlight all the most important points.

ground water

One risk factor is of great importance - the level of groundwater rise. The final success of the work on the construction of the inspection pit largely depends on this. In some cases, it is necessary to abandon the construction of such a pit or cellar. You need to be prepared in advance for the fact that the water level will be critical.

Unfortunately, in some settlements there are no specialized geological services at all, where relevant surveys are carried out. But you can independently determine the level of groundwater rise with enough high precision. This is done in the following way. You need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep. Watch how high the water rises. When the worst forecasts are confirmed, that is, the waters lie too close to ground level, it is better to refuse to build a viewing hole. Of course, purely theoretically, it is possible to provide waterproofing even in such a situation, but then the pit will look more like a bunker, it will take a lot of effort and investment in construction, and the danger of flooding will still remain.

Another option to help deal with natural factor risk lies in the arrangement of drainage. It happens that a motorist takes care of his car professionally, he needs an inspection hole, but there is no opportunity to choose another site. In this case, high-quality groundwater drainage should be done. A special drainage well is dug outside the garage, where water is drained. But such work is laborious and requires significant investments.

Properly determine the size of the viewing hole

It is very important to immediately accurately determine the optimal parameters of the viewing hole. It should not be too large, but it is also inconvenient to work in cramped quarters. Everything must be correctly selected, of course, in accordance with the dimensions of the car.

Let us dwell on the methods for determining the key parameters.

  • Pit length. Consider the parameters of the car. Usually the standard length of a viewing hole for passenger car is about 4-5 meters. To equip a convenient descent with an attached or monolithic ladder, you need to add one more meter. These are good parameters that are focused on comfort, rational use viewing hole. You will no longer need to regularly move the car during repair work, as happens if the pit is too small, short.
  • Width. Here the distance between the wheels of the car plays a key role for you. Standard setting for modern cars- a pit with a width of 75-80 cm. This width will be quite enough, while it is not too large.
  • Depth. Everything is strictly individual here. Of course, they work standing up in the inspection pit. Some dig shallow holes so as not to provoke pressure and groundwater leakage, but it is inconvenient to work while sitting on a stool. It is better to make a good deep viewing hole. Approximately 15 cm is added to the height of the motorist. When there are any doubts about the depth (for example, when several people with different heights are planned to work in the pit), of course, it is better to make it larger. After all, if necessary, you can simply make a small platform under your feet.

When the parameters are determined, it is necessary to make a drawing, and write all the exact dimensions on it. Then this scheme is transferred to the construction site, digging a pit.

Construction methods

The construction process will largely depend on the method of arranging the viewing hole. The best option– lay the foundation immediately, even at the stage of construction strip foundation and garage basement. In this case, the excavator also digs the pit. At the same time, work is underway to waterproof, ventilate and insulate the pit with the garage as a whole.

But quite often you have to deal with construction after the construction of the garage box. Of course, then you have to dig the pit manually.

Pay attention to one significant point. You will need soil from the development, so that later you can fill your sinuses with it, as well as raise the level of the floor in the room. The fact is that the floor of the garage is made at a mark higher than the road on which the car leaves.

Building a viewing hole

It's time to consider in detail how to build a brick inspection pit with your own hands. Let's start by clarifying some points.

Specify the size of the pit

We have already talked about the parameters of the viewing hole. But it is important to remember: the pit must be larger than the pit! Consider the following settings.

You have to lay out a leveling layer, which will consist of gravel, crushed stone and sand. The standard thickness of such a layer is 50-100 mm. This must be added to the depth.

The bottom is made of concrete with a grade of 150-200, the thickness of which is approximately 100 mm. This is also reflected in the depth of the pit.

Width and length also increase as the thickness brick walls is 250 mm when building in one brick. In addition, a gap of about 30-40 mm should be left between the masonry and the wall of the pit, in order to then make waterproofing from the outside and sealing backfill with soil.

Work algorithm

You will need crushed stone, concrete grade 200, cement, gravel and sand, as well as waterproofing sheet materials(isolon), plaster, brushes with shovels, a level, an attached ladder, a metal corner, boards, polystyrene foam for insulation, metal pipes and gratings for ventilation.

Let's move on to the step-by-step instructions.

  1. First of all, all the markup from the drawing is transferred to the garage floor in the place where you decided to make an inspection hole.
  2. Then you need to dig a pit. The bottom is carefully cleaned, after which the floor is arranged in the pit. In the process of working in the pit, it is better to go down the ladder.
  3. After leveling the floor, a horizontal waterproofing of the bottom is performed. Use roll materials, for example, the well-known isolon. The material is popular, proven. You can take roofing material, in extreme cases - a thick plastic film.
  4. Be sure to bring the edges of the waterproofing material 50 cm beyond the bottom of the pit. Then they are wrapped, attached to the outer surface of the brickwork.
  5. An important stage is the concreting of the bottom. Here it is necessary to immediately take into account the dimensions of the concrete base. If the pit is planned with a width of 75 cm, add the thickness of the brickwork (50 cm along the perimeter), and also make a margin of 5-10 cm. As a result, the width is 140 cm. The width of the concrete base is calculated in the same way.
  6. Reinforcement is optional, although for greater reliability and durability it is still better to lay a reinforcing metal mesh. If you took the concrete mix M-200, and the thickness of the concrete bottom is more than 80 cm, it is quite possible to do without reinforcement.
  7. Then there comes a time when it is necessary to allow the concrete to harden. This will take at least 3 days.
  8. Now it's time to start laying the brick walls of the inspection pit. Carefully make orders, use a level so that the masonry is adjusted horizontally. There are enough walls in one brick. Do not forget that you need to leave a gap between the walls of the pit and the masonry.
  9. Perform thorough plastering of the walls on both sides. A good solution is to plaster the masonry in parallel with the construction of the walls. So, having laid out 4 rows, it is necessary to cover them with a layer of plaster outside and inside.
  10. Pay more attention outdoor decoration walls. High-quality coating waterproofing is required. Use bituminous mastic, hot bitumen. Such waterproofing is necessarily carried out in two layers. This is indispensable, since it is precisely such a measure that will prevent the appearance of dampness in the inspection hole. Otherwise, the walls will draw moisture from the ground.
  11. When the masonry is fully completed, external waterproofing is done, it is the turn of backfilling the existing sinuses. Here you will need the soil left over from digging the pit. It is covered with 15 cm, carefully rammed, then the next layer is made. This layer-by-layer ramming is also very important. The best solution- add clay to the soil. The compacted clay layer will become a reliable additional barrier to moisture penetration, as well as a monolithic support for masonry.

If you want to conduct lighting in the viewing hole, immediately provide niches for lighting fixtures in the masonry. It is also worth making an additional large niche for storing the most popular tool, wrenches.

We equip a viewing hole

It is important to conduct a sufficiently voluminous extra work to fully equip the viewing hole in the garage.

niches

They are useful for lighting fixtures and tools. They need to be provided in the process of laying brick walls. Optimal dimensions for a standard niche, the following are: depth 12 cm, height 25-30 cm, and length approximately 50-75 cm.

Water collection

Pit - very useful thing in the viewing hole. After all, even with impeccable waterproofing, you will need to somehow get rid of moisture that can be carried on the wheels, drip from the car. The best option is to make a liquid collector at the bottom of the inspection hole. To do this, to one corner is done minimum slope. There is a small hole dug. It is also cemented so that the edges do not collapse. Since it is possible to accidentally step there, the pit is covered with a strong grating.

Ventilation

It is advisable to make a forced or natural ventilation in the viewing hole. Use metal pipes, a small fan. Ventilation will help to quickly eliminate all harmful fumes from the pit, as well as prevent the formation of condensate. And it is much more comfortable and safer to be in such a space.

Strengthening the edges of the pit

The edges of the pit should be well reinforced. Be sure to do this so that the pit does not crumble, withstand the pressure of the wheels of the car. You will need a metal corner No. 45-50. A framing frame is welded from it around the entire perimeter of the viewing hole. In order for the frame to be securely fixed, anchor outlets with a diameter of 6-10 mm must be welded to the outer sides. They should be located every 25 cm. When the garage floor is additionally concreted, they enter the concrete base.

We close the hole

To protect the pit from all external influences, it is desirable to close it for those periods when it is not in use. It is worth considering this point already at the stage of welding the corners for the frame. Weld them so that the boards fit comfortably into it along the narrow side.

Wheel stops

Consider the moment the car enters the area above the viewing hole. So that the wheels do not even accidentally get into it, it is necessary to specially install limiters for them. To do this, take a metal profile: corner, channel or pipes. The metal frame should rise above the floor, protecting the pit from the arrival of the car.

Warming

A good solution is to insulate the viewing hole. For this, sheets of expanded polystyrene are suitable, which can simply be glued to brick walls.

Lighting

Take care of lighting the space of the pit. Install lamps in pre-prepared niches, run cables in plastic channels. Lighting will ensure comfortable work at any time.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo from the garage

A step-by-step instruction with a photo allows you to get a visual representation of the process of building a viewing hole made of bricks with your own hands.


  1. At first it was easy to work: there was sand digging.
  2. Then the clay went, so it became more difficult to dig.
  3. Made a waterproofing box out of isoplast. Temporarily laid the boards for fixing.
  4. Installed reinforcing mesh.
  5. Started laying brick walls.
  6. Made niches on the sides.
  7. Recesses of different sizes: for tools, for lamps.
  8. Niches also decorated with metal frames.
  9. The niche for the lamp is small.
  10. I took a part of concrete, two parts of cement and gravel. Made a concrete pour.
  11. He poured concrete carefully: inside the floor, outside, around the pit, to further strengthen it.
  12. Carefully plastered the walls.
  13. I made a socket for a portable lamp in my pocket.
  14. Ran the cable.
  15. He inserted a lamp into the niche.
  16. This is what the finished pit looks like with lighting.

Video: learning to make a viewing hole

You will be able to better understand all the intricacies of building a viewing hole in the garage if you watch the following video material. You can make a hole with your own hands. The main thing is to remember everything important tips, work algorithm. A complete picture will be obtained after watching the following video: it describes in detail and shows with a specific example how to build a viewing hole in the garage.

Be careful, act carefully.

An inspection pit in a brick garage is built quite simply and serves as an indispensable tool for vehicle owners when inspecting and repairing a car.

For those who know how and love to repair, fix minor faults in the car on their own, a viewing hole is a must.

Today there is a well-developed network of car repair shops and car service and repair centers. Nevertheless, many drivers even get pleasure from the fact that they themselves can find and fix problems in their car, this is a kind of discharge from their main work activity.

In addition, it is also moral satisfaction that they themselves prepared their car for inspection, plus they saved a certain amount of their budget. Often such craftsmen help their friends with repairs.

Inspection pits are also arranged in garages for servicing large automotive equipment - trucks, buses and other vehicles. I propose to consider how a viewing hole is built in a brick garage for your car.

Preparatory work

First you need to find out to what mark the rise of groundwater is possible. Not all settlements have a geological service, where geological surveys of soils are carried out (and the level of groundwater is determined).

Here high level ground water

It is possible to determine this yourself. To do this, make a pit to a depth of 2-2.5 m and monitor the level of water rise. If the forecast is unfavorable and the water lies close to the mark of the earth's surface, then it is better not to make a viewing hole.

If there is no choice and the site has already been allocated, then underground water drainage (drainage) is performed, but this is a costly and complex event associated with the construction of a drainage well outside the garage. We will assume that the prognosis is favorable.

Determine the size of the hole

Length We calculate based on the dimensions of your car. This is an average of 4-5 meters and for the descent we add another meter to it. With such a length, you will not need to constantly move the car during repairs.
Width- the main limiting dimension here is the distance between the car wheels. The most acceptable size is 75 - 80 cm, which is suitable for all types of cars.

Depth chosen individually for your height. Your height plus 15 cm is quite enough for you, and if your friend is your assistant, taller than you, then it is better to immediately make a hole plus 30 cm to your height. You can make yourself wooden stand under your feet.

The pit can be built in two ways:

  • In parallel with the construction of the strip foundation and basement. In this case, an excavator can dig a pit.
  • After building the box. In this case, you will have to dig manually.

The soil from the development will be used for backfilling the sinuses and backfilling under the floors, since the garage floor should be higher than the mark of the road where the car leaves.

Brick inspection pit technology

We decided on the size of the inspection hole in the cleanliness. But when arranging a pit, you should consider:

  • the thickness of future brick walls (250mm - in one brick);
  • a layer of leveling preparation of sand, crushed stone, gravel 50-100 mm thick;
  • thickness of the bottom made of concrete grade 150 - 200 equal to 100mm.
Descent into the viewing hole

We carry out a passage of the pit, clean the bottom and proceed to the device of the bottom. You can go down into the pit using an attached stepladder.

We make leveling preparation and proceed to the device of horizontal waterproofing of the bottom from roll materials - isol, roofing material and other film materials.

In this case, it should be noted that the edges of the insulating material must be brought 50 cm beyond the borders of the bottom, in order to then wrap them and stick them on the outer surface of the future brick walls of the pit.

The time has come for concreting the bottom. We produce it with a width equal to the width of the pit 75 - 80 cm plus the thickness of two brick walls (50 cm) plus a margin for "back and forth" (5-10 cm). The total width of the slab is 1.4m. Calculate the length of the bottom plate in the same way.

Reinforce the bottom? If you use concrete mix M-150, 200, maintaining a thickness of 80 - 100 mm, then you can do without reinforcement. Concrete should set to its original strength - in our case, we set aside a period of 3-4 days for this.

Begin brickwork which is supported on a concrete slab. We lay the masonry under the jointing of the seams or plaster. On the outside of the wall, the pits should be plastered so that vertical waterproofing can be performed with high quality.

We carry out the plastering in parallel with the masonry, that is, having laid out 4 - 5 rows along the height of the wall, we immediately plaster it from the outside.

We perform external coating waterproofing - with hot bitumen, bituminous mastic, similar materials in two layers. Waterproofing is needed so that the walls of the pit do not "pull" moisture from the ground and do not create dampness inside it.

Having completed the walls of the pit and their waterproofing, it is necessary to backfill the sinuses with layer-by-layer tamping of the soil after 15 - 20 cm. Ideally, if it is clay, as compacted clay creates a "clay castle" that prevents water from penetrating through it.

Niche device

It is very convenient if the viewing hole in the brick garage is equipped with niches along the long side - to accommodate an electric lamp, switch, socket.

A cable with a voltage of 36 volts should be connected to this niche, used in basements and damp rooms, dressed in a rubber hose or in a corrugated (preferably steel) version.

Another niche is to accommodate the tools necessary for work. Niches are placed at a height of 0.9 - 1.2 m from the floor level of the pit.

Niche dimensions can be maintained in mm:

  • in depth 120
  • length within 500 - 750
  • height 250-300

After laying the last upper row of bricks, a metal frame framing the opening from the corner No. 45-50 is installed on them.

For reliable fixation of the frame, anchor outlets from reinforcement with a diameter of 6-10 mm in 25-30 cm are welded to its outer side side, which, after concreting the garage floor, enter the concrete body.

The corners are welded in such a way that boards 40-50 mm thick can be installed into the frame along the short side, which cover the pit when it is not in use.

Planks can be knocked down into shields, but not too heavy. They need to be antiseptic and painted in order to prolong their service life. Metal parts (frames, stairs, etc.) also need to be painted.

My inspection hole, made in the basement of the garage

In order for the inspection pit in the brick garage to be safe for arrival, so-called wheel breakers are installed, which do not allow the wheels of the car to accidentally slide into the pit.

This is a metal frame around the pit made of a metal profile (pipe, channel, corner), which rises somewhat above the floor mark and is a barrier that encloses the opening of the inspection pit.

It is recommended to keep the inspection hole closed (except when using it), as condensation forms in it, which can contribute to corrosion of the bottom and metal components of the machine. Dry the hole in hot weather when you drive out of the garage.

These are perhaps the main points that should be taken into account when building a viewing hole. Think again and weigh the feasibility of arranging a pit when building your garage.

Before you build inspection hole in the garage with your own hands, let's figure out what it is.

viewing hole- this is the working space of a motorist, which should be as comfortable as possible, allowing you to turn around and stand up to your full height. If these conditions are not met, fixing even a tiny problem will turn into a nightmare, which should not be allowed.

How to make a hole in the garage?
First of all, we must measure the length, width and depth in order to find out inspection hole dimensions in the garage by hand.

Parameter length calculated from the length of the machine. Add one meter to it, it will be optimal space convenient for work.

The second parameter again directly depends on the dimensions. vehicle. On average, this is 75 cm, but professionals use another way to measure the optimal width: you need to measure how far apart the front wheels are from each other. 20 cm is subtracted from the obtained value to be sure that during the drive into the pit, the car won't fail.

IMPORTANT: Before you make a hole in the garage, keep in mind that its width should be slightly less than the width of your vehicle, otherwise the car will simply fail.

And finally, the last parameter - depth. It is calculated from the calculation of the growth of the motorist, to which 20 cm is added. The obtained parameters need increase by 30 cm, which will make hydro- and thermal insulation. After the calculation, you can make drawing holes in the garage.

Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage: dimensions - photo below:

Construction

Having received the required dimensions, we proceed to construction viewing hole in the garage by hand. Of course, it is much easier to build an inspection pit when the garage has not yet been built, here you need to do this work until the floors are filled with concrete, but even when you are thinking about how to make a garage with a pit with your own hands, this question is quite decide.

Construction works are as follows:

  1. Pit preparation. Marking up land plot according to the given dimensions. Before digging a hole in the garage, we stock up on shovels and a level. The pit should be the right depth and with a flat bottom.

    2. REFERENCE: How to make a viewing hole in the garage when it is already built? We mark the floor, and then, according to the markup, we cut through the screed using a power tool, after which digging work is already carried out.

  2. Formation of smooth walls. It is also necessary to carefully compact the bottom of the pit.
  3. Arrangement inspection pit in the garage: floors, walls and niches.

We build a hole in the garage with our own hands step by step:

We lay a pillow of crushed stone on the ground, on top of which, by about 5 cm, we pour sand and tamp.

The next layer in this pie is 30 cm clay. Already laid on clay reinforced mesh, which becomes the backbone of our design, strong, reliable, durable.

Grid is poured concrete. We mix sand with cement, in a ratio of three to one, and fill it with a thickness of 7 cm.

We are waiting for the concrete to harden and only after that, we process the floor bituminous mastic solution. We put the roofing material and glue the joints with bitumen, be sure, hot.

Styrofoam is laid on the roofing material, and then the whole structure is generously poured with concrete, about 15 cm. And again we wait until the concrete dries.

After the concrete has dried, you can proceed to the design of walls and niches:

  1. The walls are smeared with clay, then polyethylene is laid, which is well attached to oily clays.
  2. A layer of roofing material is applied to the film and again, as in the case of the floor, we pass the joints with bitumen.
  3. We repeat the technology of creating the floor, and fasten the foam layer to the walls using any construction adhesive.
  4. The hardest part of the job is formwork erection. The formwork is made of plywood, if you want to get a more durable structure, then from boards, at a distance of 7 cm from the walls.
  5. We carry out reinforcement along the perimeter of the wall and fill it with concrete mortar.

You need to pour concrete in layers, here you need to be guided rule, the quieter you go, the further you'll get. It is necessary to fill the hole in the garage within a few days, every day - 20 cm in height.

When the concrete hardens and you are satisfied with the result, remove formwork We don't need her now. Well, we proceed to the next stage, the creation of niches.

As in the construction of floors and walls, when arranging niches, we use fittings and clay. But here we no longer need concrete, there will be a viewing hole in the garage with our own hands brick with which niches are lined. If you don’t like this option and you are interested in more than laying out a viewing hole in the garage, then use ceramic tiles , it will be more effective.

See how to do do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage- a photo:

Hydro and thermal insulation

Before you make a hole in the garage, you also need to take care of waterproofing, because humidity is unacceptable in the inspection pit, where, not only do you need to work in comfortable conditions, but it is also important to observe safety precautions when working with electrical appliances of a car.

Today we can choose from a wide range of materials:

Polymeric. This is a material with a complex synthetic structure and excellent waterproofing properties. There are two varieties: multilayer and single layer, the former have best qualities and can last much longer, up to fifty years, the latter are cheaper. Polymeric waterproofing is laid on reinforcement with cells of size 10x10.

Be sure to cover the frame geotextile. Polymer plates, if they are with a self-adhesive base, are installed with an overlap of 30 cm, if the memtrans are not self-adhesive, then the overlap is 10 cm. Without fail, the joints between the polymer plates are treated with a special adhesive.

Bituminous. This waterproofing option is represented by several types: rubemast, euroroofing material and ruberoid, each is interesting in its own way, each has its pros and cons.

Installation bitumen insulation, perhaps the simplest, in addition, this material belongs to the category of economical, although its service life is much lower, only 10 years, if the work is done efficiently, the shelf life increases to 15 years, but no more.

Bituminous insulation is applied in a double layer.

Dry mixes. This is one of the modern methods of isolation. It is effective, durable, allows you to eliminate even microscopic cracks in the walls and floor, which increases the service life of the inspection pit. Mixtures diluted with water in the consistency indicated on the package are applied to the concrete layer.

If a dry mixes- this is modern way, which, however, is often used as additional insulation supporting another, polymer or bituminous, then mixture of clay with petroleum products- this is the most old way isolation. It is good because it is easy to carry out work and requires minimal financial costs.

The disadvantage of this method is that the refined products toxic, and experts do not recommend working in a pit treated with such a composition for a long time.

IMPORTANT: do not forget to always glue the joints, whether it be polymer material, bituminous or some other. Failure to comply with this condition may result in to the destruction of the entire structure and nullify your work.

thermal insulation is an equally important issue, because in our country warm weather is established only for five months, while the rest of the time - rains, colds and bitter frosts.

At inspection hole in the garage, as durable, effective insulation material can come out polystyrene. The positive properties of the material are the minimum percentage of water absorption, versatility, and excellent thermal insulation characteristics. Minus - fragility, about 10 years.

Finishing touches

As finishing touches, we designate:

  • security (iron grate on the pit);
  • niches;
  • lighting;
  • ventilation.

Safety involves the installation of an iron grate on the pit.

Inspection hole in the garage - how to close it? In no case should it be always open. You can think, forget, not see ... the consequences of such inattention are usually deplorable. So it's better trellis during the absence of repair of the viewing hole in the garage.

Niches in the wall are needed in order to store tools in them, so as not to run upstairs every time for pliers or a screwdriver. Niches also serve as room decor, creating an atmosphere indescribable in words, conducive to work.

For lighting it is necessary to conduct wiring, install sockets in the wall. You can, of course, use a portable lamp, but it will not be so convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

Ventilation- one of the main issues in the design of a viewing hole, because it is often necessary to use toxic substances, varnishes, paints, which are unacceptable to breathe in a closed room. Therefore, give the issue of ventilation a significant part of your attention.

In addition, ventilation is needed to eliminate the possibility of creating condensation effect: high humidity can lead to the destruction of the inspection hole and damage to the car, power tools. Ventilation can be built by displaying air outlet 30 cm from the garage floor. And in order to prevent any debris from getting into the ventilation pipe, it is covered with a net.

Now you know how to do inspection hole in the garage with your own hands. Believe me, it is not at all as difficult as it seems, looking at such a voluminous instruction. And, finally, it remains for us to wish you only patience and kindness!

How to build a hole in the garage with your own hands, watch the video: