Pipes

How to do waterproofing before screed. Do I need waterproofing under the screed

Waterproofing ground base- work that requires accuracy and responsibility. You can install such floors when the soil on the site is dry, ground water no, or they lie deep. It is necessary to take into account the level of precipitation observed in the construction area. The waterproofing of the floor on the ground itself does not take much time, but along with it concrete pouring. It already takes almost a month to dry.

An example of a common mistake in construction: a leaky joint between the floor waterproofing on the ground and the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation wall.

The advantages of such floors are:

Lack of work on laying large and massive slabs, beams. The floor is just filled with concrete.
High quality and durability of the resulting surface.

Of the minuses, it should be noted that the soil requires careful preparation. You can’t just start working on the ground if it is not brought into line with all the requirements. Laying concrete floor on the ground can be carried out various methods, but the most acceptable of them remains this:

The soil base is carefully compacted, after which a layer of sand is added.
The second layer is expanded clay or crushed stone of small and medium fractions.
Executed directly.
After that, a rough concrete screed is laid.
There is a layer of vapor barrier material.
The heat insulator is installed.
Reinforcement and finishing concrete screed is being carried out.
The selected floor covering is laid, but only after the concrete has completely dried.

Such a course of work is considered optimal. Even without special experience, such a floor can be made with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Substrate preparation and concrete layer waterproofing

Scheme of a concrete floor on gravel with waterproofing.

Soil preparation before waterproofing is the most important stage of work. It is necessary to check that the soil is dry, and then compact it. When it is ready, the first preparatory layer is filled with sifted river sand.

Sand after filling is slightly moistened, carefully compacted.

The second layer is crushed stone of small and medium fractions, it is leveled and compacted. On this, the preparation of the soil surface before waterproofing is considered completed, it is only necessary to additionally check the horizontalness. This is done using the usual building level.

Waterproofing the concrete floor on the ground is carried out in this way:

Bituminous roll material or polymer-based membrane is rolled out on the base, observing the overlap. All strips must go in the same direction, the overlaps are glued with construction tape, which provides reliable protection against moisture.
If materials have been laid, it is necessary to re-check the complete absence of any surface damage. If there are gaps, cuts, etc., then such a film is completely unsuitable for use.
During installation, you will have to make sure that the film goes on the walls by about 15-20 cm. After installing the entire floor, small parts of the waterproofing material will remain above the surface. They are carefully cut with sharp knife. In some cases, the use of such materials is not possible. You can replace this stage with pouring a concrete layer, for which a completely different type of waterproofing will be used. To do this, coating materials are used that completely cover the concrete. This option cannot be called worse or better, since both of them have their own characteristics and advantages.

Laying concrete subfloor

Rough laying on the ground includes not only the implementation of the screed, but also the insulation of the floor, the installation of a vapor barrier layer. It is the rough screed that is the base and the security layer for the rest of the floor.

If the technology is violated, then the quality of protection will be poor, all work will have to be redone. Such a draft floor on the ground is made of special lean concrete with a class of B 7.5-10, crushed stone is used for it with a fraction of 5-20 mm.

If the waterproofing layer is not used separately, then concrete of class M50-75 can be taken. Such a rough filling under the floor on the ground is simple, its thickness should be only 40-50 mm, the allowable height difference is 4 mm.

The rough floor on the ground is laid in compliance with such stages as:

Installation of vapor barrier material. It is best to use polymer-bitumen membranes for this, which are made on the basis of fiberglass, PVC, polyester. All of them are of the required quality.
Next comes a layer of insulation, which makes it possible to save heating costs. This method allows you to eliminate heat loss by about 20%, which is already quite a lot. In this case, it is necessary to use materials such as PSB35 foam. If large loads are planned, then PSB50 is suitable. So that the foam does not collapse when it interacts with concrete, it is necessary to lay a layer of plastic film with an overlap from below and above. It is important to ensure that the film does not have tears or other defects.
Instead of foam, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which is of great quality. Such materials are great for working with floors on the ground, although some experts recommend replacing them with mineral wool. But cotton wool accumulates moisture, so its use is doubtful.

Under major renovation outdoor space most often it means carrying out screed work, that is, leveling the base for further laying of decorative and finishing materials. In some cases, an integral stage of the preparatory process is waterproofing under the screed.

The term "waterproofing" in the construction business refers to preventive work carried out to protect various structures from water penetration, as well as to protect materials from the harmful effects of aggressive moisture. In the case of a screed, this procedure is necessary for the following reasons:

Thus, waterproofing the floor under the screed is necessary to protect against the penetration of water both outside and inside the room.

Often, another function of the hydrobarrier is called improving the quality of the screed. In fact, the insulation formed under the concrete layer does not affect the characteristics of the latter in any way. This is possible only when special water-repellent additives are added to the composition of the screed solution. Thanks to industrial plasticizers or polymer-containing dry additives, the density and final strength of the finished web are increased.

Some masters recommend waterproofing the entire floor, not only in private housing construction, but also in apartments. The reason is that such protection will prevent the penetration of moisture from the screed mortar into the floor slabs and below. In reality, a similar procedure is recommended to be carried out without fail for residents of the first floor. For everyone else, it is enough to process the space in wet rooms, as well as the area of \u200b\u200bjoints between the plates, under communications (pipes for water supply and heating), the junction of walls and floors.

Materials for waterproofing under the screed

The market of construction and finishing materials is extensive and actively developing. In such an area as the formation of a hydro-barrier, both old, time-tested, and new unique developments of domestic or foreign production are used.

In residential housing construction, waterproofing under floor screed is carried out by the following types of building and finishing materials:

Liquid formulations

This is a huge class of products, including a variety of bitumen-polymer, polymer-rubber, polymer and other compounds. Including:

intermediate primers for floors based on synthetic elastomers (polyurethane, epoxy, acrylic). They are applied to the prepared base, in some cases sprinkled with quartz sand to create an "adhesive bridge";

mastics based on bitumen, bitumen-polymer or polymer compositions. These are classic and modified compositions that paint the screed in 1-2 layers;
rubber-like polymeric materials (liquid rubber, hybrid MS-polymers). For the floor, waterproofing from such compositions is practically not used, since their purpose is not loaded surfaces. The exception is narrow-profile mixtures from Bostik (Aqua Blocker), Isonem (MS Polymer) and some others;

impregnations on a polymeric, organic or solvent basis with a hydrophobic effect. These are special compounds that, after application, penetrate into the wood or mineral base, forming a waterproof barrier.

Insulating films

Made from polyethylene (HDPE or LDPE), polyvinyl chloride or polyolefin (TPO). For waterproofing under the screed, film products with a thickness of at least 150 microns are recommended. When installing the canvas, it is necessary to lay it with an overlap, and the seams must be tightly glued or welded.

Membranes and geomembranes

This is a modern class of materials made from dense polyethylene, PVC or EPDM rubber. The product is standard and reinforced, and the surface may have a slight embossing or a special form of profiling. Depending on the manufacturer, after laying, the joints must be welded, glued or connected using special locks.

The products are flexible, characterized by a high-density and tear-resistant structure, resistance to chemically aggressive liquids, sudden changes in temperature and frost.

Roll materials

Some of the materials may have an outer mineral coating on one or both sides. They are fixed by fusing or gluing, followed by sealing of seams and junctions.

Dry mixes

There are two types of products in this group:

Rigid or semi-rigid coating mineral compositions from cement, quartz sand, plasticizers and special chemically active additives (Ceresit CR 65, Sika-101A, Bergauf Hydrostop, Ivsil Waterstop).

Designed for the formation of waterproof coatings on non-deformable mineral bases inside and outside buildings.

Penetrating waterproofing compounds mineral type (Penetron, Isonem, Kalmatron, Hydrotex). These are complex mixtures with an interesting mode of action. After application, the product reacts with the base: the polymer or organosilicon additives that penetrate deep into the concrete convert the metal oxides and salts contained in the concrete into more complex compounds - the so-called insoluble crystalline hydrates. A network of such crystals fills capillaries, microcracks, and multiple pores of the base. Due to the force of the surface tension of water, such an obstacle becomes an insurmountable barrier to the path of liquids of any type.

The first type of waterproofing mineral compositions is in the assortment of almost all manufacturers of dry building mixes. The latter belong to highly specialized products, they are preferred in cases where, in addition to the water barrier function, it is necessary to strengthen concrete (in compression) and increase its frost resistance.

Summing up, we note that rigid coating, liquid and penetrating waterproofing are excellent for both apartments and private houses. But according to membrane manufacturers, it is film and roll materials that correct installation give a 100% guarantee of absolute water resistance of the structure.

Waterproofing technologies

The device of the hydrobarrier is carried out according to the standard scheme:

Foundation preparation;
isolation device;
Sealing of seams and interfaces (if any).

The choice of the type of waterproofing depends, first of all, on the availability of materials (availability on sale), their cost and degree of reliability. But there is another important factor - the technology of formation.

In civil engineering, the hydrobarrier is divided into

Obviously, there are many ways to waterproof the base under the screed. And although the manufacturers claim that best result will give rolled materials, experienced craftsmen fundamentally disagree with this. The fact is that polymer-bitumen canvases and films have zero vapor permeability. Because of this, over time, the structure of the subfloor changes, air “chambers”, alkaline efflorescence, etc. are formed under the screed. Therefore, it is most often recommended to use hard mineral mixtures under the cement-sand layer, and all the rest - above it.

Our advice is simple. As you know, each case is unique. You may have some special conditions, technological design features, etc. Therefore, before purchasing a water barrier material, consult with specialists.

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Creating a screed is one of the most important and difficult jobs in arranging a garage space. Waterproofing concrete screed has great importance- performance and durability depend on its quality floor covering, as well as the strength of the base.

From exposure to moisture over time, concrete begins to collapse, and in just a couple of years the floor surface may become unusable for one simple reason - cracks have appeared. Waterproofing should be carried out in all rooms without exception, and in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, this work should be given increased attention.

Appointment of floor waterproofing

Why waterproofing is required:

to prevent leaks. High-quality waterproofing will protect neighbors from flooding and related material costs. This is also true for owners of private houses and garages, as internal leaks also happen.
to improve the quality of the screed. If the concrete quickly sets, small cracks appear on it. Therefore, they are trying to slow down this process: they cover it with polyethylene, moisten the surface. If waterproofing is present, the curing time of the concrete increases, and it becomes stronger.

Waterproofing in an apartment under a screed is necessarily carried out in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, where there is the highest risk of flooding neighbors (more: ""). But experts recommend doing this work in residential areas, since there is water in the screed that can seep to the lower floor. In rooms, you can limit yourself to waterproofing at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs, walls and floors, in the area near pipes.

The owners of apartments on the lowest floor should also perform such waterproofing, as in the photo, since contact of the screed with cold and damp air currents will harm it. Concrete is a porous material that absorbs moisture and collapses because of this.

As for whether waterproofing is needed under the screed in a private house, this is also a must. Without it, the liquid will soak into the floor, and in just a couple of years, cracks will appear in the base, which will ruin the flooring. For this reason, experts advise in private homes to perform waterproofing twice: before and after the screed.

Floor waterproofing materials

There are several types of materials for waterproofing, each of them is worth familiarizing yourself with in detail.

Roll products

Most often, these materials are a mixture of bitumen and synthetic components based on fiberglass. They are characterized by reliability and durability. Previously, they were made on a paper basis, which reduced the operational life. There are such materials now, but, despite the low price, it is not recommended to purchase them.

Rolled waterproofing can be glued and built-up. The first materials are attached to the base, and for the installation of the built-up materials, special construction burners are needed that run on gas and heat up the bitumen that is part of them. Quite often, the waterproofing of a wooden floor in a private house is performed with just such a material, although there are other options.

First, the base is prepared: it is cleaned of debris and dust, and all cracks and other defects are rubbed with a solution of sand and cement.
When using roofing material, priming is performed with a bituminous emulsion. Base plates are additionally treated with penetrating insulating agents.
A damper tape is laid along the edges of the room. This is required to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which occurs during temperature changes.
Insulating sheets are laid with an approach of 15 centimeters on the walls and 10-15 centimeters on each other, due to which a kind of recess is created. If particularly high-quality waterproofing of the rough screed is needed, for example, in the bathroom, then the material is laid in several layers, shifting the joints (read: "").
The overlapped canvases are fastened with a building hair dryer. If welded materials are used, they are heated with a burner before fixing. Pieces of roofing material are attached bituminous mastic to the previous layer and base. The seams are connected in the same way.
When air bubbles and folds appear, these zones are pierced with a knife and smoothed well and thereby remove air. After that, the edges of the incision are bent, smeared with mastic and attached to the base.

Such waterproofing of a concrete floor screed is inexpensive and reliable, but it requires a significant amount of time and the availability of special tools.

Hydrophobic mastics

These are bitumen-based liquid formulations. They are applied with a brush, like paint. You can also use ordinary bitumen simply heated to the required consistency, but such waterproofing is less durable. Mixtures of bitumen with rubber or polymers are much better. Despite the higher price, such compounds are reliable, durable and easy to use. Mixtures with additives of polymers are not dangerous at low temperatures.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Substrate preparation: cleaning dust and debris, removing various stains, including oil stains - they can interfere with the adhesion of the mastic to the surface. Cracks are eliminated with a solution of sand and cement, sharp protrusions and layers are eliminated.
Primer treatment improves adhesion. It is advisable to buy it from the same manufacturer as the mastic. The product is applied to the surface and allowed to dry for two hours. detailed instructions indicated on the product packaging.
The mastic is applied with a roller or brush in several layers - each subsequent after the previous one in 3-4 hours. If more than 6 hours pass, the product will begin to polymerize and the new coating will peel off. The first layer is applied in one direction, and the next in the other. This improves the quality of waterproofing. In this way, places near the pipes, the joints of the walls with the surface of the plates or the base are treated. The width of the strip of mastic should cover the insulated places by 15 centimeters on each side. In rooms where there is an increased risk of leaks (kitchen, toilet, bathroom), it is recommended to combine several insulation methods. As for whether waterproofing is performed before or after the screed, in these rooms it is better to do it both before and after. The mastic dries completely within two days.

This type of waterproofing is reliable and affordable, environmentally friendly. Mastic does not burn, it is easy to apply without the use of special expensive tools. The main disadvantage of this option is the low resistance to mechanical damage.

Special moisture resistant plasters

Dry screed waterproofing can also be carried out with the help of special plasters, which are diluted to a thick consistency (such as condensed milk) with water and applied with a spatula to a previously prepared surface. The composition of such plasters, in addition to sand and cement, includes polymers that reduce the level of moisture absorption. After drying, a coating is formed that is resistant to mechanical stress and deformation.

Performance of work:

Prepare the surface and apply an insulating compound prepared according to the instructions.
It takes about 15 minutes to dry the first layer.
The second layer is applied in the opposite direction to the previous one, and then also allowed to dry.
The third, and if necessary, the fourth layer is applied in the same way.
For 24 hours, the surface must be moistened. Absolute drying lasts up to two weeks, depending on the mixture used. During this period, the surface does not need to be subjected to mechanical stress.

Such waterproofing of the floor after the screed is inexpensive and easy to apply. The main disadvantage is that the composition dries for a long time.

Penetrating waterproofing

This method of waterproofing is considered the most effective. It changes the structure of concrete: during the reaction, crystalline insoluble formations are formed in it, which seem to seal the pores of concrete without damaging its structure, so that moisture does not penetrate into it. In addition, the compositions used for this effect increase the resistance of floors to chemical attack. They are available in dry or liquid form.

Performance of work:

First, the surface is prepared - it is necessary not only to clean it and eliminate cracks, but also to moisten it abundantly, but so that water does not leak to the lower floor. Waterproofing the screed on the ground in this way is not performed.
The dry mixture is diluted in accordance with the instructions.
Before applying the composition, the base is moistened again.
Apply the first layer of the agent. Then they wait for the time specified in the instructions, and apply it a second time, after moistening the surface again.
The waterproofing is covered with a film or moistened regularly for two weeks until drying is complete.

For effective protection against moisture, waterproofing over the screed is recommended. This is especially true in areas where there is an increased risk of flooding - bathroom, toilet, kitchen. In living rooms, doing double waterproofing does not make sense.

It is these methods described above that are the most popular. But there are other compounds - for example, liquid rubber, bulk mixtures. The choice is influenced not only by the preferences of homeowners, but also by their financial capabilities, operating conditions of the premises. Waterproofing after the screed and before it is carried out for high level protection against water ingress - this is not required in all rooms. And waterproofing to the screed is performed in any case, even in living rooms, since when laying the screed, water can seep into the neighbors.

After completing all the waterproofing work, you can begin to make a screed. Experts recommend combining several methods at once to improve their quality - for example, along with mixtures that react with concrete, additionally coat the gaps between the slabs, the joints of the floor with the walls, and the places near the pipes with mastic.

The durability of the screed depends on how correctly the waterproofing technique was followed. Therefore, if you are not confident in your own knowledge and experience, it is better to seek help from professionals. The screed is very capricious - when exposed to moisture, the concrete begins to collapse, minor cracks appear in it, which grow over time. As a result, the flooring suffers from this. There is only one way to fix the situation - to start doing repairs again. So waterproofing must be done in accordance with all the rules, not forgetting even the seemingly insignificant little things. A protective screed for waterproofing requires a significant investment of time and effort, but the base for the flooring is of high quality and durable.

Waterproofing the floor before the screed: how to make a concrete base waterproof

Waterproofing under the screed can be carried out different ways. The main condition for a high-quality waterproofing coating #8211; its layer must be continuous and without any defects.

The main goals of waterproofing works:

Improving the quality of the screed and creating the necessary level of humidity for the subsequent laying of various types of floor coverings. Thanks to the protective layer, the percentage of moisture in the building mixture will not quickly decrease, which will protect the screed from cracking and increase its strength characteristics.

Protection of the lower floors from the flow of mortar and water.

Protection of the room from capillary penetration of moisture.

Today, the construction industry offers a wide range of different waterproofing materials, which can be divided into several groups:

Only a continuous waterproofing coating can be a reliable protection against moisture penetration.

Roll waterproofing

The most economical and easiest option is a dense waterproofing film, it is available in gray, black or brown. Roll pasting waterproofing #8211; stronger and more reliable protection. It is made on the basis of bitumen, fiberglass or synthetic compounds.

Preparation of the surface for work with pasting insulating material is as follows. First, the base is cleaned of debris and leveled, covered with a bituminous emulsion, and only after that proceed with installation. The layers are glued overlapping, for greater strength, the entry is made up to 30 centimeters. Do not use a coating that has a cardboard base.

Rolled waterproofing is easy to install and securely glued to the base

Liquid waterproofing

Produced in the form of a mixture - mastic based on bitumen. Such a mixture is applied with a brush on a surface previously cleaned of dust and debris. Ordinary molten bitumen can also be used, but it should be borne in mind that such a coating is short-lived.

First, the base of the floor must be leveled. To correctly determine the slope, the thickness of the leveling layer and the thickness of the screed, mark the floor level on the wall surfaces. After that, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and existing defects are repaired. tile adhesive. If there are protruding and sharp elements, they must be blunted, otherwise they will violate the integrity of the layer. If there are a lot of such irregularities, you can sprinkle the surface with a layer of sand.

Under screed waterproofing

Protection of all elements of any building from moisture penetration is mandatory, regardless of the characteristics of the soil of the area on which the house stands or is being built. There is an opinion that if a private building has a basement that is well insulated, then this can be neglected, saving on material and labor costs. Such reasoning is wrong.

Waterproofing under the screed protects not only from the penetration of liquid and, as a result, the appearance of dampness in the premises, mold and unhealthy air. This leads not only to a violation of the comfortable microclimate in the house and reduces the life of the things in it, various equipment and equipment. Together with water, particles of various substances “come” dissolved in it, many of which are aggressive.

Acids and alkalis, penetrating into the structure of finishing and building materials, are destructive. Even a concrete slab, which is widely used as interfloor overlap. It will gradually "weaken". And if we take into account that all the components of the structure of the structure are designed for a certain load, it becomes quite clear that without high-quality waterproofing under the screed, the reliability of the entire building, which means that the service life without overhaul, will begin to decrease sharply.

It is also necessary to take into account the fact that heat losses in the premises increase. After all, shells and cracks form in the ceilings over time. The screed itself, also under the influence of constant dampness, will begin to become covered with faults, which may also affect the state of the “finish” finish. For example, if the owner chose to arrange self-leveling floors. If logs are installed on top of the screed under wooden floors, then the wood will begin to rot. Hence - the deformation of the floorboards. the appearance of a creak and musty air.

In addition, waterproofing under the screed is a reliable protection for various types of insulation. With the correct arrangement of the floors, such material is used regardless of what “design” the flooring will have. After all, no one needs a cold floor in the house, especially if the family has small children who constantly play on it.

If the subsoil waters come close to the surface at the location of the house, then additional measures are taken when arranging waterproofing under the screed. It is also necessary to take into account whether there is a room with high humidity on the lower floor (for example, an unheated basement). In this case, the insulation becomes especially reliable.

With special care, such work must be carried out in those rooms where excess humidity will constantly be present. For example, bathroom, shower room, swimming pool, laundry and a number of others. More reliable methods are impregnating or coating. The use of roll materials will require additional measures to seal the joints of the strips.

Waterproofing under the screed has another practical value. Private houses are now mainly built on two floors. And if the building is one-story, then basement especially the owners use it hard. Each dwelling has its own engineering systems. Among them are those in which water is present (water supply, sewerage, heating).

If an emergency occurs and the entire floor is flooded, then the rooms located at lower levels will also, albeit partially, be flooded. As a result, things, finishing materials will suffer. Having saved on waterproofing, there is a risk of subsequently “parting” with even more money. Yes, nerves too.

Screed on the separating layer of waterproofing

The screed on the separating layer is nothing more than a screed with waterproofing. It is mandatory performed in the floors of bathrooms. It is desirable (but not necessary) to use it under self-leveling floors, since in this case it is better to play it safe when pouring the screed and not flood the neighbors on the floor.

Waterproofing can be for pressure and non-pressure waters, pasting and coating, membrane and from individual panels. Almost any of them can be used for the installation of a waterproofing layer in the floor structure. Previously, in the floors of bathrooms, waterproofing was made from rolled materials, most often from roofing material, with gluing the joints and the entire panel with hot bituminous mastic. Ruberoid is a dense construction paper impregnated with a bituminous binder. Since the composition of the roofing material contains a cellulose component - paper, sooner or later it begins to rot and the roofing material is destroyed.

2. Preparation of the base.

We remove debris from the floor and close up all clearly visible holes with cheap tile glue. Next, we inspect the overlap and knock it off or dull sharp irregularities. In order for them not to break through the film, on which you will have to walk a lot during the screed installation.

If there are too many sharp irregularities, then it is advisable to sprinkle them with sand, that is, to make a thin sand preparation on the floor. In most cases sand will not be needed, the top of the floor slabs is usually quite even. Mounting loops, unless they are bent into the holes specially designed for them in the slab, in this case it is better to cut and grind flush with the top of the slab. Otherwise, the plastic film may catch on the mounting loop during operation and tear. If, due to height differences between the floor slabs, a break in the film is possible, then they must be eliminated, for example, by sanding. In other cases, eliminating drops is a waste of time and effort.

3. Laying the separating layer.

We use a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then the film is laid entirely in one piece over the entire area, leading the ends to the walls 100–150 mm higher than the intended screed. We straighten the film, but lay it without tension. The laid waterproofing should form a trough around the entire perimeter of the room. In the doorway, pre-install the restrictive board. The board must be installed flush with the surfaces of the walls of the room where the screed will be laid. Bathrooms will need to install a door with a threshold, the threshold should be protected by waterproofing and not installed on top of it. If there is already a door, then we let the waterproofing on it in the same way as on the walls. Cut off the excess later. For guaranteed waterproofing, it is better to make it in two layers.

If the width of the room exceeds the dimensions of the film, then we use self-adhesive roll waterproofing materials, or waterproofing membranes, or coating waterproofing forming a single carpet after drying. If, nevertheless, a polyethylene film is used, then we lay the pieces of the film with an overlap of at least 20 cm and glue the seams with adhesive tape, or better, glue or weld with an iron through a newspaper and only then additionally glue it with adhesive tape. Without fail we lay the second layer of the film. We lay the second layer parallel to the first, but with a shift of the weld relative to the seam of the lower layer by half the width of the panel.

3. Installation of beacons.

The screed on the separating layer, as well as the associated screed, can be made from two types of materials: from a home-made or purchased cement-sand mixture and from ready-made non-shrinking dry mixes. Thin leveling screeds are made from self-leveling compounds.

When pouring the screed semi-dry cement-sand mortar or a non-shrinking leveling compound, do not install pin beacons! They will perforate the film, so we make ordinary mortar beacons. Along opposite walls, we lay mortar piles on the film or make a bed and rub the plaster profile or profile used for plasterboard structures into the solution. To determine the mark of the top level of the screed, the film, which is applied to the walls and covering the marking of the level of the screed, can be temporarily bent. Screw self-tapping screws into the nylon dowels drilled into the walls along the marking lines and pull the fishing line between them. First, a lighthouse is made along one wall, then along another, then beacons are made between them.

Rice. 38. Marking the level of the screed for self-leveling compounds

When pouring the screed with a self-leveling mixture, you can use the spider beacon. Usually this type of beacons is used for screeds of large areas and is not used for leveling floors in an apartment. One beacon is installed on 2–3 m² of screed area. The "spider" beacon is made from an ordinary nut with a bolt screwed into it. Three or four legs of thin reinforcement are welded to the nut. In order for the legs of the lighthouse not to tear the waterproofing film, their ends are bent up. A bolt is screwed into the nut, which is aligned with the height of the tie at the bottom of the bolt shaft (Fig. 38). That is, the beacon installation horizon is checked at the top of the bolt head, adjusted for the length of the bolt, and the fill level of the screed is checked at the bottom of the bolt. "Spiders" for self-leveling screeds are installed in any place. They will not need to be driven with a rule and a spatula, their purpose is to visually indicate the height of the screed when it is made far from the walls, on which lines are drawn indicating the border of the top of the screed. Moreover, these lines will be covered with an overlap of a waterproofing carpet. When installing a screed, carefully pour the solution around the "spiders" so that they are not washed away from the marked place.

4. Damper joint device.

Along the perimeter of the room (along all walls), around columns, pilasters and other protruding parts, we glue on the film or temporarily press in any other way strips of rolled insulation with a height exceeding the height of the screed, and 10 mm thick. The damper layer will make it possible to avoid cracking on shrinkable screeds and will help with sound insulation - on non-shrinking screeds.

5. Screed device.

A screed of a semi-dry cement-sand mixture and a factory-made leveling mixture is made in the manner described on the previous pages. That is, the mixture fits into the inter-beacon gap and is stretched by the rule along the beacons. The thickness of screeds from cement-sand and leveling mortars along the separating layer of waterproofing is made at least 30 mm - for bathrooms (under tiles) and at least 40-50 mm - for other rooms. The thickness of the screeds ready mixes determined by the manufacturer of the dry mix. It can be different, to determine the thickness of the screed, read the annotation on the bags with mixtures.

Rice. 39. Laying self-levelling compounds

Mortar self-leveling mixtures are very plastic, it is not necessary to stretch them with a rule. The maximum that needs to be done for them is to correct the thickness of the screed with a wide spatula (Fig. 39) and make sure that the screed level coincides with the bottom of the “spider beacons”. Self-levelling compounds are brought to the place of laying in buckets and poured onto the base. Each subsequent bucket should be poured next to the previous one with a partial overlay of the solution. The filling process must be continuous. You need to work with at least two people: one stirs the solution, the other spreads and spills. Self-leveling mixture under its own weight itself spreads into the horizon. It is only necessary to ensure that the level of the screed is topped up to the desired limit and not overfilled. Control by beacons. In the process of pouring the screed with self-leveling compounds, consistently remove the "spiders" from the places already filled with the screed.

6. Care of the screed.

For cement-sand screeds, it is necessary to ensure that the screed does not dry out ahead of time for three days. Cover it with plastic wrap and prevent drafts at the top of the screed. To care for self-leveling mortars, read the instructions on the bag and follow them.

Do I need waterproofing 1

Alexey Guest

Sergey Alexandrovich Guest

I'm renovating an office, I'm going to do a screed. The masters advised to do only a primer under the screed (Prospectors). A friend also advises waterproofing to protect against odors from the basement. (The basement is empty and there are puddles from time to time.) Is it worth it? And if so, which is better? And what comes first: primer or waterproofing?

Alexey Guest

Waterproofing Center Guest

/// If there is moisture in the basement, then it is worth making the basement waterproofing, because. there is a chance that the floor and the bottom of the walls may be damp. It will be smart.

The basement is not mine - the housing office has the key 🙁 But the moisture there is only periodically.

If economical (as usual.) - then make a vapor-tight waterproofing under the screed.

It's not about saving, it's just that I can't repair my basement, and there is no admission there :-(.

And what material (materials) would you recommend to an amateur? And what comes first - primer or waterproofing? Or is primer not needed at all?

Cement-based waterproofing materials of penetrating action.

Has a double protective effect:

- capillary, as a result deep penetration into the pores of the insulated material,

- armoring, as a result of the formation of a mechanically and chemically strong layer on the surface.

Contents Waterproofing under laminate floors video. Floor waterproofing How to level a floor under a laminate: recipes for concrete and wood Waterproofing - floors How to prepare a floor for a laminate Waterproofing floors under ...

Waterproofing the floors before performing the screed in the apartment is necessary to protect against the penetration of moisture vapor from the lower floors into concrete screed. It is especially important to carry out thorough waterproofing under the floor screed in the bathroom and kitchen, where the risk of leaks is greatest.

Waterproofing floors before performing the screed is necessary to protect against the penetration of moisture vapor from the lower floors into the concrete screed.

What materials are suitable for waterproofing the floor before the screed in the apartment?

Roofing material waterproofing - most often used for waterproofing concrete floors under a screed.

Waterproofing can be done different ways and differs according to the categories of materials used:

To prevent the penetration of moisture under the concrete or cement layers, special mixtures diluted with water can be used. Waterproofing measures are carried out by applying a multi-layer plaster dry mix with a consumption of about a kilogram per square meter surfaces.

The advantage of use lies in the high-quality filling of almost any surface irregularities. The main disadvantage of such materials due to duration.

What is important to remember

It is necessary to clean the surface and carefully level out sharp protrusions that can adversely affect the integrity of waterproofing materials.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the floor, before pouring the screed, should be done as carefully as possible, since it is this stage of work that affects the quality and durability of the floor covering.

At the first stage, it is necessary to clean the surface and align sharp protrusions as carefully as possible, which can adversely affect the integrity of waterproofing materials. It is recommended that all significant defects be leveled with cement, tile adhesive or screened sand. All mounting loops are subject to cutting and high-quality grinding. Next, the direct application of protection is carried out according to the established technology. Now let's talk about this in more detail.

Video instruction

How do waterproofing master screeds, observing the technology

The protection application technology depends entirely on the category of waterproofing material used:

film, roll materials or modern PVC membranes

In order to compensate for thermal expansion and contraction of the screed, it is necessary to fix a special damper tape around the perimeter of the entire room. The next step is the laying of rolled materials. When using roofing felt, the surface is pre-treated with a special primer.

If film-type waterproofers are used, then it is necessary to carry out a seam overlap of ten centimeters and enter the walls of fifteen centimeters. All joints are processed with bituminous mastic. A gas burner is used to lay the built-up waterproofing, and polymer coatings must be glued with a building hair dryer.

liquid waterproofing

Before applying the materials, it is necessary to apply a special primer to the floor base - a primer corresponding to the type of waterproofing chosen.

Before applying such materials, it is necessary to apply a special primer to the floor base - a primer corresponding to the type of waterproofing chosen. Bituminous mastic for roof waterproofing applied with a roller or brush. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried. The coating type of waterproofing, as a rule, dries in 48 hours.

dry plaster mixture

Requires dilution with water in the proportions indicated on the package with the mixture. The finished working solution must be applied to a previously thoroughly cleaned surface. All subsequent layers are laid perpendicular to the previous ones. You can perform the screed after the complete drying of the waterproofing mixture.

Bathroom surfaces require special attention, where two types of waterproofing can be combined to achieve the maximum effect.

Necessary tools for applying waterproofing

When using rolled materials as waterproofing, you will need to apply gas burner or building hair dryer.

Liquid mastics and rubber masses are applied using rollers or a set of brushes - wide and narrow.

When using rolled materials as waterproofing, you will need to use a gas burner.

The use of dry mixes in the process of waterproofing works is based on the use of a plastering machine or a metal spatula, as well as a construction mixer or special nozzle on a drill to mix the solution.

Top 5 Newbie Mistakes

Waterproofing under the screed in the apartment does not tolerate mistakes and any violations cause serious consequences, which can only be corrected by completely dismantling all layers. The most common errors are:

performance of leaky joints of waterproofing material;
poor-quality or incomplete removal from the surface of the old screed, construction debris and fine dust;
lack of a primer layer on the cleaned concrete base, which violates the adhesion process of the waterproofing layer;
application of liquid waterproofing materials or a working solution based on a dry mixture on an insufficiently dried surface;
violation of technology and laying fewer layers when performing multi-layer waterproofing.

The most common mistakes are poor-quality or incomplete removal of old screed, construction debris and fine dust from the surface.

How much will you pay for materials?

Variety of waterproofing materials allows you to choose best option depending on financial possibilities and personal preferences.

Average prices for roll materials:

waterproofing with a thickness of 2.5 mm based on fiberglass - from 380 rubles per 9 sq.m;
technoelast with a thickness of 4 mm from TECHNONICOL - from 1400 rubles per 10 sq.m;
uniflex with a thickness of 3 mm from TECHNONICOL - from 1200 rubles per 10 sq.m;
glassine - from 90 rubles per 13 sq.m;
roofing material - from 380 rubles per 15 sq.m.

Average prices for liquid materials:

universal bituminous mastic - from 320 rubles per 20 kg .;
rubber mastic of the KN-3 series - from 1350 rubles per 22 kg .;
bituminous primer - from 610 rubles per 20 liters;
bituminous primer from TECHNONICOL series No. 01 - from 1800 rubles for 20 sheets;
standard building bitumen - from 590 rubles per 25 kg.

Average prices for waterproofing mixtures:

coating waterproofing Aquastop-PERFEKTA - from 630 rubles per 20 kg .;
waterproofing mixture Vodostop from the company GLIMS - 840 rubles per 20 kg .;
bituminous mastic Flachendicht from KNAUF - 1210 for 5 kg.

Estimated prices for specialist services

The cost of professionally performed waterproofing before screeding in an apartment depends on the material chosen and is most often calculated upon inspection of the object. Approximate prices for waterproofing works in apartments:

performance of coating waterproofing - from 580 rubles per sq.m.;
waterproofing with polyurethane mastic - from 1800 rubles per sq.m.;
waterproofing with universal bituminous mastic - from 328 rubles per sq.m.;
waterproofing with building bitumen - from 308 rubles per sq.m.;
waterproofing with a mixture of Waterstop - from 558 rubles per sq.m.;
waterproofing with coating solutions - from 520 rubles per sq.m.;
waterproofing with two layers of roll materials - from 920 rubles per sq.m.

Today, on Internet resources, on various forums, you can find any information, namely about waterproofing the foundation with roll materials, waterproofing with liquid rubber, waterproofing the floor in a private wooden house, wells from concrete rings and much more, read the reviews and choose convenient way waterproofing your premises.