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The better to caulk a bath from a bar and how to do it right. Caulking a house from a log house with your own hands: tasks, stages, working tools and materials How to caulk a log house correctly

Almost do not reduce the number of people who want to build their own house out of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have a lot of advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many of them forget that a wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or timber, has such a significant drawback or, rather, a feature such as shrinkage and high deformability of wooden elements. For this reason, the construction of a wooden house is always rather longer in time - first you need to wait for the log house to shrink, and only then you can start finishing work.

But it leads not only to a change in the geometric dimensions of the logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without it, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate the defects that have arisen, caulking of the walls is carried out.

What is a caulk

The process of caulking is to eliminate the gaps between the elements of the log house with heat-insulating material, which is designed to prevent cold air from entering the house.

This one would seem simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has not changed much over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to deal with caulking on their own, but use the work of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
by eliminating cold bridges;
elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between the window and the frame;
giving the house a finished look.

Do not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and on this all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:

after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
before starting finishing work.

In ancient times, moss and wool were the main materials for the purpose of warming a log house. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, different in price and raw materials. Therefore, any person, even limited in means, will be able to find suitable material to insulate your home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

tow;
hemp;
felt;
lnovatin;
jute.

mineral wool;
foamed polyethylene;
foam rubber;
sealants.

Of the artificial heaters, only sealants deserve attention.

Other heaters should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

good insulation, but she is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development of allergic reactions in some people;
polyethylene foam - a material with closed pores, it retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the crowns of the log house;
foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, as air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).

Sealing joints can also be carried out with the help of sealants. This process is much simpler and faster than traditional caulking. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. The application of sealants is carried out using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to carry out caulking at home with natural materials.

Moss- this is the most ancient and to this day quite effective insulation for a log house.

It has such necessary properties as:

excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times greater than its own);
the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists damage to both the moss itself and the logs;
bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulking: forest (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.

Moss is laid not after the assembly of the log house, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed with a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with stems across. The ends of the stems 10 - 15 cm long are released outside, for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing the moss (it must be cleaned of soil residues and dried) and the rather complicated process of caulking.

tow can be used but not recommended.

There are several reasons:

tow is difficult to twist so that it does not crumble;
it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
Tow is very fond of birds, using it to build nests.

Thus, the caulking of the log house will have to be dealt with too often. The tow is preliminarily treated with formalin solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. It is not very convenient to work with tow, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a tight filling of the seam.

Hemp- Made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

– nonwoven fabric made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. It needs pre-treatment with protective compounds, as it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, it is possible to purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen- it is advisable to use their dry wood or for warming the house. The material does not have a high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause decay processes in it. The shade of linen caulk is usually gray.

Lnovatin- made from linen and jute, which together form a good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has a good density and the ability to restore its dimensions. After the wood has dried, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the voids that have formed.

Jute- the properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density in order not to let in the cold and not let the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable hygroscopic material. In addition to all these positive properties, jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Chopped wall insulation technology

From ancient times to this day for warming wooden walls two main technologies are used.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow gaps:

a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in a slot and pushed with a spatula, leaving the edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
then a thin roller is rolled up from the insulation, which is wrapped in the edge of the insulation left free and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

In the set - used for caulking large grooves and gaps between logs:

the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
then it is carefully unwound, while driving the material into the slots with a caulking chisel;
if the slots have different sizes, then for larger ones, the necessary thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.

caulking (they are different: type-setting, curve, split);
wooden mallet or wide-faced rubber mallet.

Caulkers have a steel blade, which must not be sharp and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.

Work order:

The caulking process itself starts from the bottom, from the lowest crown and continues upwards. It must be taken into account that caulking the seams changes the height of the log house.
One seam must be caulked around the entire perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from the inside. This will avoid warping the walls of the house.
Then the next highest seam is processed. And so to the very top.

It is impossible to caulk individual walls, this can lead to a deviation of the wall from the vertical.

As you can see, the process of caulking a log house is not so complicated, but it requires great accuracy and careful execution of all operations. Then your home is long years will be protected from atmospheric influences, and the facades of the house will take on a finished look.

Wooden houses have many advantages, but all wooden buildings dry out and deform over time. Shrinkage is given not only by log cabins, but also by houses made of profiled timber. As a result, cracks and gaps are formed between the wooden elements (beams or logs), through which the cold comes through. To make the house warm and cozy, to prevent the loss of precious heat, the caulking of the log house allows. It is quite specific and hard work, which is the filling of the resulting space with special insulating materials. How the caulking of a wooden house is made, when it is necessary to do it, what types of caulking exist, we will talk about this in the article.

The first work that is done immediately after construction is caulking; and polishing of logs, and impregnation of wood with antiseptics, and painting of a log house are made only after caulking. Our ancestors knew what caulking is and why it is needed, because in Russia houses were traditionally built of wood. But even today, caulking has not lost its significance. This procedure solves the following problems:

When the wood dries, cracks and gaps appear in the walls, through which heat escapes, and instead moisture and dampness penetrate into the house. This can cause the development of putrefactive processes in the tree. Caulking can achieve complete sealing of joints, insulate a wooden structure and prevent decay.
Shrinkage of a wooden house does not always occur evenly. Often one wall sits more than the other, which leads to the distortion of the entire structure. The caulking of the walls allows you to align the structure and give the house the correct shape.
Caulked log cabins made of logs and gun carriages are much more durable, since special impregnated materials are used to seal the seams, which do not allow water to pass through, which significantly extends the life of the wood.

Caulking is necessary not only for newly built houses, old wooden buildings also need to be insulated. Caulking an old log house allows you to close up the cracks that have formed in the logs over time, improve the thermal insulation qualities of the house, and renew the wooden structure.

Some mistakenly believe that caulking is only necessary in a log house, which is subject to severe shrinkage and deformation, and caulking a house from a bar is not necessary, since the material has already been pre-treated. However, this is not the case, the caulking of profiled timber is necessary, since it also shrinks, and as a result, cracks and gaps appear that accumulate moisture, which can provoke the formation of mold and fungus.

Many are concerned about the question: is it necessary to caulk a house from a bar if it is insulated? Professional masters give an unequivocal answer: of course it is necessary. When the profiled beam dries, deformation occurs, resulting in large gaps, which, even with external insulation, will let cold air in from the street. The caulking of a log house makes it invulnerable to wind and cold.

Log cabin caulking technology was developed a long time ago, and today it has not changed much. Of course, the modern industry has made some adjustments to the tools, fixtures and materials used, but the basic rules for caulking a log house have remained the same.

There are two main methods of caulking: in stretching and in a set. In the first method, the insulation is stretched along the log and one end is inserted into the slot using a special tool. Then a roller is formed from the free end of the material, which fills the grooves of the log house. To caulk the cracks in the second way, the insulation is wound into a coil, loops are made from it, with which the holes are clogged. This method is best used when there are large gaps between the logs.

by the most weak points in a log house from the point of view of heat loss are the corners. Through them, wind and cold air penetrate into the house. Therefore, the masters pay special attention to them. Caulking of log corners is made different ways depending on the method of felling the house.

The greatest difficulty is caused by caulking the corners of the log house into the bowl. There are some nuances here. If the house was built from timber, caulking corner connections they are made with the same material that was laid in the crowns so that there are no discrepancies in thickness. A house made of rounded logs or carriages is best insulated with jute or linen rope.

How to caulk a log house from a log? This question is far from being idle, since the durability and efficiency of caulking largely depends on the chosen material, which must have certain properties. Since ancient times, moss has been used to insulate a wooden structure. It is still used today for these purposes, but much less frequently, since it is a rather expensive material. In modern construction, caulking of a log house with tow, jute or flax is most often performed. Each material has its own characteristics.

Tow is a coarse linen fiber, but it must be taken into account that birds love it very much, so after caulking the tow will have to be processed from birds. Usually it is treated with a special impregnation, for example, drying oil, which does not change the color of the wood; it can also be painted with oil paint. The painted surface is a reliable protection against insects. Another option is to fix the tow on top Decoration Materials: decorative rope or rope.

Jute is made from hemp, the material has good hygroscopicity, and even at very high humidity stays practically dry. Therefore, caulking of the bath is usually performed with jute.

Lnovatin is a durable material made from fibers and linen waste. It is a wide tape, twisted into rolls in a factory way. Lnovatin has excellent thermal insulation properties, absorbs and quickly evaporates moisture.

The process of shrinkage of a wooden house lasts several years, so caulking is carried out in several stages. Rough primary caulking is done immediately after felling the log house. The building is insulated on both sides (outside and inside) with interventional insulation, which for the first time does not fit very tightly. First, the outer joints are sealed, and only after that it is necessary to caulk the house from the inside. A prerequisite - caulking is done around the perimeter of the entire house. You cannot caulk one wall, and then proceed to the second, third, etc. Caulking raises the original height of the house by about 5-10 cm, so the structure may be skewed.

Re-caulking is carried out approximately a year and a half after the completion of construction. By this time, the building will almost sit down, so the secondary fine caulking is done very tightly so that there are no gaps and cracks in the seams between the logs. The last time caulking is carried out five to six years after construction, when the house will give the final shrinkage.

In addition to the usual, there is also a decorative caulk, which is performed for purely aesthetic purposes along already caulked seams. The craftsmen finish the log house with a rope or decorative rope.

What is the difficulty of self-caulking

Despite its apparent simplicity, caulking is a job that requires experience and special knowledge. There are many nuances in caulking that are known only to professional caulkers. The work is carried out exclusively by hand, so the quality of caulking depends entirely on the skill and professionalism of the performer.

Of course you can buy necessary materials and caulk the house on your own, but the lack of experience will certainly affect end result. Many people ask themselves: can a caulk fall out after warming up a log cabin or gun carriage? It depends on how well the work is done. If the technology is violated during caulking, the insulation is not sufficiently fixed, then it is quite possible that after heating it will fall out.

An ineptly executed caulk of tow, the birds will quickly smash into their nests. Professional craftsmen put the material in such a way that the birds cannot reach it and pull it out. In case of violation of the sequence of work, improper laying of interventional material, use of insulation of different thicknesses, deformation of the structure is possible. In this case, you will have to caulk the house again. As for labor costs, caulking is not an easy job, an amateur will have to make a lot of effort and spend a lot of time to caulk his house.

Professional caulking from the company "Master Srubov"

To insulate a log house and give it a unique flavor is a job that will be performed at a high quality level by the specialists of our company. Masters have many years of experience and the necessary work skills, have specialized education and numerous reviews of grateful customers who have appreciated the golden hands of professional caulkers.

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In our work, we follow the traditions of the old masters, as well as use modern tools and equipment, use proven certified materials, which together allow us to maintain a high standard of quality. We will perform caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. To contact us, visit the page where you will find our details.

Many are already looking at wooden houses in the form of a log. After all, they look beautiful and quite warm inside. Indeed, during the construction of a building, insulation is laid between the crowns of logs, this gives additional confidence in the quality of the log house.

But several years pass and after the complete shrinkage of the house, all kinds of cracks and crevices appear. This not only makes the house cold, but also spoils appearance. In addition, uncovered cracks are the places where mold and rot will appear first of all, which will later lead to damage to the building.

To prevent this from happening after the shrinkage of the building, the caulking of the log house is carried out. There are several ways of this procedure, depending on the material chosen, in this article we will consider them.

Log Caulking Material

Log cabin caulk can be produced various materials. If during the assembly of the building, insulating jute was used and its ends protrude properly, then this will be enough to perform the necessary manipulations as described below and additional material you won't need.

If no insulation was used during the assembly of the log house or its ends do not protrude from the slots, you will have several options regarding the choice of material.

Most old way this is a caulk of moss. Although it is time-tested, today there are many modern materials who have more best qualities for this purpose.

Tow is also very often used for these purposes. To make the quality of work as good as possible, you need to choose jute tow. It will lay down evenly, and it is easier to work with it.

Caulking with a rope is often used, while it is recommended to use a jute or linen rope.

Recently, the so-called warm seam has been increasingly used. This is the result of new technologies that are rapidly moving especially in the construction industry.

Technology of caulking log house with jute

To perform the caulking we need:

Small hammer - 300 - 400 gr.
Chisel 20 mm.
Caulker blade or wide chisel
rubber mallet

The caulking of the log house should be done after the building settles and shrinks. Previously, during assembly, a jute insulation must be laid between the crowns. The caulking process consists in turning the jute with a spatula from top to bottom and then compacting it in the groove between the logs. In this case, light blows of the hammer on the shoulder blade are made. You will get a tucked up strip of jute in the form of a rope, which is very practical.

The work is carried out in two stages - the primary caulking and the main one. It should be noted that the caulking of the log house is carried out only after the shrinkage of the house, for this it must stand for at least half a year.

Primary caulking is done without strong compaction, especially in those places where the logs have not yet sat down in their place. In such places, the jute is tucked in without compaction, while making sure that there is room for further shrinkage of the logs. Log cabin caulking, its technology is not very complicated, so we will consider it in detail below.

Caulking is necessarily performed sequentially - from the bottom up. First of all, the lower groove will be caulked along the perimeter of the building, then the second groove, etc. It is important to do everything around the perimeter, otherwise caulking separate wall can cause the building to collapse. You also need to consider that the higher we climb, the less we need to seal the grooves with jute. And the uppermost two or three grooves are tucked only with the help of a spatula, without hammer blows, this is done in order to avoid the slightest compaction of the jute.

The fact is that the log house will shrink for at least another five years, so the upper crowns will eventually crush the jute tightly themselves.

In a log house, the ends are the weakest point, due to the cut out bowls, so you need to caulk carefully, without undue effort.

The second caulking, the main one, is carried out together with the finish, where the caulking of the log house is carried out more tightly. It is advisable to carry out this operation no less than one and a half years from the construction of the building. During this time, the log house will shrink almost completely and you, without fear, will be able to install windows and doors, conduct electrics and install plumbing.

Periodically, you need to inspect the log house for cracks, especially after a hot summer. After all, even a small gap can lead to rotting wood.

Video instruction for caulking log house with jute:

This method is not the best today, because there are already many other modern materials that allow you to perform this procedure faster and better. But if you still decide to use moss for caulking, first of all you need to choose it correctly.

So, moss called "cuckoo flax" or it is also called "red flax" is suitable for caulking a log house. It has long fibers, brownish brown, with hints of red. "White moss" is also used, or its correct name is "sphagnum moss". This moss is very soft, like cotton wool. It has excellent antiseptic and bactericidal properties. A wood pest will never start in it, moss also kills all spores of the fungus. Both, these plants are often called building types moss.

During the construction of the log house, it is laid between the crowns of logs as a heater. In the future, using moss, you can caulk it. This is done twice, the first time immediately after assembly, the second after some time has passed when the house shrinks. It can take from one and a half years to two, or even more.

Previously, before caulking, the moss must be dried. And already before the process itself, it must be moistened with water, otherwise it will crumble upon physical contact.

Caulking a bar with moss requires special tools, you will need:

Kiyanok
Konopatok

A caulk is a small spatula made from the same wood as the log house. This is done so that upon physical contact with the logs they have the same hardness, which will avoid leaving marks on the log house.

A mallet is a small wooden mallet used to strike a caulk. This allows you to push the moss into the cracks with more force and fill the free space more densely.
As in other technologies, they begin to make caulking from the very bottom, passing the entire perimeter. This approach will avoid the possible distortion of the building. First, the crown passes from the inside, and then from the outside.

If "cuckoo flax" moss is used, it is formed in the form of a tape up to 10 cm thick, laid parallel to the log and the gap is tightly caulked using the above tools. When used, white moss is fluffed up a little, the laying is done perpendicular to the log, so that the fibers hang down somewhere by 5–10 cm. Then they make a caulk with the same tools.

Caulking log house with a rope

The technology of using a rope for caulking is not much different from the above methods. The only thing to add is that this material should be treated more carefully, because it is used not only for warming the house, but also for decorative design so even slight damage is unacceptable.

Caulking a log house with a rope, stages:

The places where the rope will be laid must be cleaned and even washed if possible.
Treat the log house with antiseptic properties, it is desirable that they have fire retardant properties.
We make a punching rope log using tools. This work is done carefully, make sure that the cord does not twist. Also make sure that the depth of driving is the same everywhere.
As with other materials, work is carried out from the bottom up around the entire perimeter.
The undoubted advantage of using jute rope is its decorative component.

Warm seam technology

Before applying this method, the seams where this technology will be applied must be cleaned. Especially if the cracks are painted with varnish or other materials.

Further, viloterm must be laid in cracks and cracks - this is a material in the form of a cord made of foamed polyethylene. Note that the cord should be about a third thicker than the gap. This material not only insulates the log house, but will also reduce the consumption of the sealant used.

The sealant is applied with a gun, and immediately leveled with a spatula. The recommended sealant thickness is 4 to 6 mm. Moreover, the adhesion area with the tree should be at least 4 mm. from each side. The sealant hardens for no more than a day, so at this time it must be protected from precipitation. For this purpose, you can use plastic wrap. Complete hardening of the substance will occur in about 48 hours at a temperature of 23 degrees. After curing, the sealant turns into a rubber-like substance, so your log house will be protected as well as possible.

Now, after complete drying, you can smooth out the seam, remove its excess and paint over with acrylic based paints.

Caulking a log house in this way can only be carried out after shrinkage of the log house. Outside, this work can be done after about a year, and inside the house only after the season with the heating turned on.

This technology has a number of advantages:

It is done only once.

Protects against ingress of water, which prevents the appearance of mold.

Makes your home much warmer.

Resistant to temperature extremes, not afraid of moisture.

It is easy to use, which allows you to significantly speed up the caulking of timber.

A beautiful appearance that allows you to veil even the shortcomings of the building itself.

Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can correctly caulk a log house, so you first need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study the methods of caulking, and correctly select interventional insulation.

Caulking rules

The caulking of the log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after the erection and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with the laying of insulation during the assembly of walls or a one-time performance of work on completion of construction.

1 way

Perform the laying of the lower row of logs on the base.

Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, a second crown is laid, and again a layer of insulation. So repeat to the very top of the log house. After all the work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the sealant are hammered into the gaps between the bars with the help of caulks.

2 way

Caulking begins after the installation of the roofing system on the frame. Insulation (best of all, tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is stuffed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are tucked in, a roller is formed from them and hammered into the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on to the top of the structure.

The second stage of caulking is performed after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and tightly hammered inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it around the perimeter of the log house.

You cannot first caulk one wall, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from inside to avoid distortion of the structure. The insulation raises the log house by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after the construction. During this time, the wood shrinks completely, and new gaps form.

There are two ways of caulking - "in a set" and "in a stretch". The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used for primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.

To work, you need tools - a set of caulks, a road builder and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make their own from hardwood.

Name Description What it is used for


	Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm	The main tool for sealing gaps between crowns
	Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm	It is used for sealing joints in corners and rounded sections of the log house
	Caulker triangular shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm	Tool for forming even rolls from twisted strands of sealant
	Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide	Expands narrow gaps, which provides more convenient filling with insulation
	wooden hammer	Used for stuffing the sealant with wooden caulks

Caulker blades should not be sharp, otherwise, when clogging the material, they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and pull back out of the seams.

Materials for caulking

The following materials are used as interventional heaters:

red and white moss;
tow;
felt;
jute;
lnovatin.

Type of materialDescription


	Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. With independent procurement of raw materials, the cost of warming the log house will be minimal. It is collected, as a rule, in late autumn, when there are no snails and fewer insects in it. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted out, clods of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. It is not necessary to dry strongly, otherwise the stems become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to facilitate styling. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: Difficult to find commercially, requires bird protection, requires pre-treatment before laying
	The tow is suitable for the primary caulking of the log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality is divided into bale and roll (tape). Roll consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to drive between the rims. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Cons: the complexity of laying, unaesthetic appearance of the seams after caulking.
	Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log cabins. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and vegetable fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not let in odors, provides good sound insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and environmentally friendly. Cons: prone to rotting, easily damaged by moths
	Traditional heaters are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is produced in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, as well as in the form of a tape. Ribbon jute is soft and pliable, evenly compacted, used for both primary and re-caulking. Jute fibers and ropes are more convenient to use after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, it is not damaged by moths and other insects, it does not rot, it provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material quickly caking, short service life.

Primary caulking "in stretch"

The whole process is divided into two stages - the laying of insulation between the logs during the construction of the log house and the caulk itself. The insulation is laid after the installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.

They take a large bunch of moss and lay it with fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close next to each other.

The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of the same thickness. Wood should not shine through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put in excess than not to report, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.

If tape insulation is used, the installation is much easier and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and fixed with staples of a construction stapler. When the tape ends, the new segment is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row along the perimeter is covered with insulation, the installation of the second crown is performed.

So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, the walls can be caulked.

The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of the log house

It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then it is much faster to form a roller out of it. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which contributes to greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not enough to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After that, the thickened roller is hammered into the gap.

If during the construction process the insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It must be applied to the seams with fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the desired density, the material will not be able to firmly fix itself and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Too short edges are difficult to tuck, respectively, the quality of caulking will be low.

If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking "in a set" is used. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow, which are wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.

Start from the edge of the lower crown:

clear the gap, removing chipped chips and debris;
unwind a small amount of cord, fold it in the form of loops and push it into the gap with a caulk;
seal the loops first at the top of the gap, then at the bottom;
impose another strand on top, now without loops, and level with a road builder.

Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The denser the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, birds can pull the sealant apart. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in the same way.

For a decorative log house, a jute cord can be hammered along the entire length of the seams.

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked separately after the walls are completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.

Since the seams between the logs have a semicircular shape at the corners, you will need a crooked caulk.

Step 1. The tape is placed vertically. They take it by the edge, apply it to the fillet seam and press it inward with a caulk. They step back a little and again drive the material into the gap.

Step 2 As soon as the insulation is a little fixed, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and hammer them deeper into the cracks.

Step 3 After filling and leveling the upper seam, they move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened, and slightly stretched so that it lies more evenly.

This is how the entire corner is consistently compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the look will be sloppy.

Video - How to caulk the corner of a log house

Caulking a log house with sealants

The caulking of the log house with special sealants is gaining popularity, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing. If the log house is made of rounded logs or glued beams, and jute is laid as a heater between the crowns, only sealant and foam polyethylene tow can be used. The sealing of the seams is carried out not earlier than the shrinkage of the log house.

Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris, wiped dry with a rag.

Step 2 A primer-primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams with a brush or sprayer. If the work is carried out in winter, the primer must be selected on a rubber basis, in summer time- on the water.

Step 3. After the primer has dried, a tourniquet of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.

Step 4 Apply sealant. The composition is used in tubes, which is applied with a mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The latter option is very easy to use: on one side of the tape, remove the protective film, apply it to the seam, press it with your hand and roll it with a roller.

Step 5 After sealing all interventional joints, remove the outer layer of the film so that the sealant hardens. At the end, the joints are covered with a colorless varnish or a tinting composition is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.

When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed out and the excess removed with a damp cloth.

If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed in the traditional way, after which the seams are closed with a sealant. After such processing, the need for subsequent caulking disappears.

Video - How to caulk a log house

How to properly caulk a bath: with moss, flax fiber, tow, felt

Caulking any wooden bath must be carried out in two stages: after the completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, baths are used for caulking: moss, felt, tow, hemp. Readers will learn how to properly caulk a bath with their own hands, what tools are needed and the intricacies of the work, having studied the article to the end.

In any case, you will have to caulk the bath. The main thing is to do the job carefully.

Features of bath caulking with various materials

When assembling the bath box, a heater is laid between each log or beam. But wood shrinks regardless of chamber drying material or natural humidity. When shrinking, space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to caulk the bath for the first time in order to seal the seam and the second to eliminate the gaps that have formed.

It is easier to caulk a log cabin with the help of special tools: a caulk and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.

What material is better to caulk a bath?

For caulking a log cabin, a steam room uses natural heaters: moss, hemp, tow, felt. All materials are available, but each must first be prepared in its own way.

Preparing moss for caulking

Seam insulation with moss is a traditional method used by our grandfathers. Moss can be collected independently or purchased ready-made at a hardware store.

Moss for caulking is one of the most environmentally friendly materials.

The price of moss is from 250 rubles, so it's cheaper to collect in the forest. The collected moss is laid out under a canopy and left to dry for 1-2 weeks. It is necessary to mix the moss every 2-3 days so that it does not rot. Using damp moss will cause mold and wood decay. But it is necessary to monitor drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.

Moss Pros:

Profitability (you can dial for free in the forest).
Natural, which means that environmental friendliness is not violated.

The material has more disadvantages:

It becomes brittle when dry.
It is difficult to caulk a bath.
Afraid of moisture and mold.
Short-lived.
It burns well.

Choosing moss to caulk a log house is necessary only as a savings. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.

Preparation of felt for caulking

Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt may be composed of smoked fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For a bath, they choose completely natural or with a high content of wool felt. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is flammable.

Felt for bath caulking is suitable natural or with a small addition of artificial fibers.

Before work, the felt must be treated with a formalin solution, it will not allow moths to get divorced in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung out in the sun and dried thoroughly.

The main advantages of felt include:

Naturalness.
Caulking a log house is easy.

Natural material is afraid of moisture and rots.
Mice and birds love to use felt to build their nests, and pick the material out of the crevices in the log house.
The high price of natural insulation.

Preparing tow for bath caulking

Tow does not need to be specially prepared before work. But moths and other insects like to settle in natural material, so the tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formalin.

Tow for bath caulking can be bought in bales.

The main advantages of using tow:

Low price.
Natural material.
Ease of operation.

Afraid of moisture.
Over time, it may begin to rot.
Mice settle in heaters.

Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.

Jute and flax fiber for bath caulking

Modern insulation options: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer's assurances about the naturalness of heaters, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fiber durable, but environmental friendliness is reduced.

Yuan jute is sold in the form of a ribbon.

Natural jute is made from bast wood of the linden family. jute has high performance strength, durability and resistance to moisture. Water, falling on the material, does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly disappears.

Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material performed well construction sites. Does not rot and does not absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls, sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but batting has 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from the other by color, lnovatin is light, and the fibers of natural insulation are darker.

Produced in the form of tape, cord. To caulk the log cabin of the bath, tape jute or flax fiber is used.

It is necessary to caulk the log cabin of your bath with a heater that meets your requirements and capabilities.

Caulking a bath is necessary in two stages:

immediately after the installation of the box;
after shrinkage of the bath.

It is difficult to re-caulk a log house from a profiled beam, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take a material with a profile chamber-drying or glued. So, shrinkage will be minimal and you won’t have to caulk again. All other types: a log, a simple bar, cylindering must be re-caulked. You need to work with special tools, as shown in the video:

Tools for the job

To caulk a log house use different kinds caulking:

typesetting;
curve;
broken;

A mallet (mushkel) is also needed. The tool is used to strike the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with an ordinary rubber mallet. We need a road builder, the tool helps to align the seam after punching with caulks.

What subtleties you need to know when caulking a bath

You need to caulk the walls of the bath from the bottom up around the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is first done by caulking one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking, the bath rises by 5–15 cm. If you do not work consistently, then the structure will warp. By caulking the bottom groove along the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.

Caulking baths start from the bottom, around the perimeter.

It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the junction with the ceiling and roof or removed for a while so as not to be damaged.

There are two ways to caulk a bath:

in a set;
stretched.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Bath caulk in a set

Caulking into the set is necessary when sealing large gaps and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a bundle of 15–20 mm and, for convenience, wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is substituted for the gap and hammered with a caulk and a mallet, as in the photo.

Caulker in a set and stretched.

First from above, then from below. Align everything with the help of a road builder.

Caulking bath stretched out

The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply stuffed into the gap between the links, and then pierced with a mallet. Perform work until the insulation stops interfering between the logs of the log cabin of the bath.

It is necessary to caulk the log house slowly, carefully closing up every crack. Places where it is difficult to hit with a tool are simply foamed with mounting foam.

We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bath various methods. After the log cabin of the bath has finished caulking, it must be sanded and coated with protective compounds. We'll talk about this next time.

What is a caulk? In fact, this is the process of compacting the log house with fibrous materials - moss, tow and others; in this case, heat-insulating material can be used as an interventional insulation - flax-jute fiber, polyurethane foam, for example. But it’s not so easy to caulk correctly - you will learn about all the intricacies and features of this process from this article. So, how to caulk a log house - with moss, tow, tape and sealants.

3 Video selection of examples of caulking
4 What tools are needed for caulking

Technology for the correct execution of work

As soon as the log house is laid, it is still impossible to caulk it - after all, there is shrinkage ahead. One can understand, of course, the desire of those building a bathhouse to earn money, which is why they offer to caulk everything right there, but this should be done only at least six months later.

So, as soon as the log house has shrunk, you can start caulking it - from the bottom up, from the lowest crown. You need to do this like this: one seam is caulked, strictly along the perimeter of the entire log house - outside, then inside. It is impossible to caulk each wall separately - otherwise the log house will warp over time. The same applies to a separate caulking of the outer and inner sides - because of this, a dangerous vertical deviation of the walls can easily occur.

Caulking is a carefully, laborious business. At the same time, the master is obliged to constantly monitor the log house so that there are no distortions of the walls. And it’s bad if, after caulking, the whole log house has risen to a whole crown - this will invariably lead to falling out of logs from dowels or locks, and therefore it is better not to allow this.

What material to give preference?

So, here are the most common materials for caulking a log cabin bath:

Moss - like in the good old days

Moss is an environmentally friendly material that has medicinal properties. It resists temperature changes and drying well, absorbs moisture, but does not rot. And most importantly - it has antimicrobial and tonic properties, and at the same time serves for a long time.

This material for caulking has been used since ancient times. To date, it cannot be called the best, but many owners of baths use only it during construction.

So, when laying, you can use only highly moistened moss - then after the log house has dried, it will turn into a homogeneous dense mass that will fill all the cavities and cracks. Therefore, you won’t have to caulk the bath anymore. However, experienced builders are not advised to attach particular importance to the historical experience of its use - such a finish is still quite expensive.

Tow - not everything is so smooth

Tow caulking is the most difficult. When the log house shrinks, it will gradually gain moisture and eventually rot, turning into dust. And then you will have to clean out this insulation, re-caulk everything and tightly fill the devastated cavities - and this will take a lot of time and effort.

Sealants - modern technologies

Sealants for a log cabin bath are much more expensive than tow, but they also have their own undeniable advantages. Sealants as a means of caulking are suitable if the frame is rounded, or well cut from an ordinary log, and the groove in it is semicircular. And if there is a jute cloth between the logs. In this case, you can really get by with one sealant. But, if the log house was made with a chainsaw, and the groove in it is triangular in shape, then it is already necessary to fill the void, i.e. caulk for real.

If you use a sealant with tow, then everything should happen according to this scheme: the bath is caulked with tow twice, and after its complete shrinkage, the seams are sealed. And in order to save the sealant, it is advisable to lay a cord of insulation in the grooves.

And for seams of different widths - different types sealant. But the seams are light and neat. Yes, and there is no risk of subsequent caulking.

Caulk tape insulation

One of the most simple ways caulking - caulking with tape. It does not need to be cut into strips, which makes the whole process much easier. And you need to do it like this:

Step 1. First you need to go to one of the ends of the log house, put the end of the tape on the ground, and, unwinding it, gradually move away to the other end. You do not need to cut the tape - it is only important that it does not twist and go in a strip. And most importantly - the tape cannot be pulled, it should go slightly relaxed.

Step 2. Returning to the beginning of the tape, you need to raise its end and, right from the end, begin to poke it between the rims - with the tool that was selected depending on the existing gaps. As soon as it has already been passed to the end, you need to leave a margin of 10-20 cm - and only then can the tape be cut, and only with well-sharpened scissors.
Step 3. At this stage, you can already caulk the tape. But only a little - otherwise it will go in folds. Moreover, it is necessary to caulk it not in one stage, but in several - until the tape disappears entirely in the logs, and the stock that was left initially also disappears. As for the process itself, the tape should be pushed diagonally, as it were.
Step 4. Now you need to repeat everything - between the same crowns. Oddly enough, two or three tapes will still quietly enter there, depending on their density. Those. the caulking of the insulation itself takes at least four times what it was originally used during installation - and this is only when caulking the outside, while by all rules the same must be done inside.

So, if the insulation stuffing has become dense, like wood, the caulking went well. By the way, the masters advise taking at least 10 mm jute - and the thicker it is, the better.

Video selection of examples of caulking

It is easiest to consider the process of caulking a log house in more detail on a step-by-step video:

What tools are needed for caulking

As for the caulking tool, in ancient times it looked exactly like this:

But today, a Chinese instrument is considered to be a quite worthy alternative, which is not expensive and is quite acceptable in quality.

By the way, if you use a solid tool for caulking, you cannot avoid chips and dents - because it will slide off. It is more difficult to use a soft caulk, but you can make it right on the spot, with your own hands. Wooden caulks with curved edges are also being made today, which are quite easy to penetrate into the depth of the seam, but skill is needed to use them.

In general, everything is within the power of a Russian person!

Bath caulk: technology and selection of material

A log bath is a tradition that has not lost its relevance even after several hundred years. The tree has the most high level thermal insulation among building materials, while the weight of the structure from the log house does not go beyond the permissible limit. The only conditional disadvantage of this technology is the presence of gaps between the stacked logs.

When laying and fitting logs between individual elements, horizontal through-holes will inevitably remain along the entire perimeter of the bath, and before its operation it is necessary to caulk them.

To learn how to properly caulk a bath, you need to understand all the intricacies of this case. The process of caulking cracks in itself does not contain any difficulties, however, there are several special points that need to be taken into account.

This article will describe step-by-step instruction and the main points on the topic - “how to caulk a bathhouse with your own hands”. In addition to describing the technology, it will also provide detailed information about how the bath is caulked, since in this case right choice material plays a decisive role in the success of the whole process.

A selection of material

Forest moss is the most traditional material that our great-great-grandfathers used for caulking the log house. This is the most environmentally friendly material of all analogues used, as it is of natural origin, hand-picked and not processed with chemicals. It has bioactive properties - moths and mold do not start in it.

Moss is especially valued for its antiseptic properties - it does not rot even under the influence of high humidity. At the same time, moss caulking is not only not subject to decay, but also protects nearby areas from damage, which is especially important for warming a bath.

Also, the use of moss as a material for caulking can significantly save on the purchase of material, since it can be collected in a nearby forest with your own hands. Even if this is not possible, its price in stores is quite affordable. Natural moss is the most rational solution to the question, what is the best way to caulk a bath?

The most common material for caulking is a log house due to its cost, but linen has the lowest quality characteristics. Before caulking a bath with flax, it should be taken into account that there are practically no natural antiseptics in its composition - in connection with which, putrefactive bacteria, which wet wood contains in excess, will quickly destroy the formed seam, after which nearby areas will undergo degradation.

It quickly collapses under the influence of high humidity - its service life is from 1 to 3 years, after which the seam begins to crumble. Insects love it - moths, beetles, in the raw state, mold and fungus start up quite quickly. Without chemical treatment for the next season of operation, you can find a large number of insect larvae in it.

Note!
Some of the shortcomings of this material can be leveled by chemical impregnation, but this will negatively affect the atmosphere of the bath.

Of all the analogues used, flax can be called the most undesirable solution to the question: how to caulk a bath?

Recently, the opinion of experts on the issue of what is better to caulk a log cabin of a bath? - is increasingly inclined in favor of jute fiber, which has recently appeared on the domestic market.

And this is not without meaning - natural jute is a durable material containing a large amount of natural lingin, which gives it water-repellent properties. Also, jute is much less damaged by insects than flax.

Note!
Not to be confused with jute felt, which contains a certain proportion of flax, and, accordingly, all its negative qualities are present.
To distinguish them from each other is quite simple - 100% jute has a gray color.

Caulker

In this process, there is practically nothing difficult - the main thing is to choose the right material for sealing the seams. You will need a mallet (wooden mallet) and a set of caulks. There are two technologies by which caulking of seams is made - stretched and set.

Stretching

The insulation is pushed into the cavity with fibers across, this is done either by hand or with a caulk, depending on the width of the cavity. The material is hammered inward until about 4–5 cm of the edge of the insulation remains outside;
Then, a roller of the appropriate diameter is made from the insulation, which is wrapped in the remaining edge, after which it is driven into the cavity with a caulking chisel;

In set

For this method, the insulation must be twisted into strands like a rope, the diameter of which is selected based on the size of the cavity between the frame;
The finished strands are pushed into the slot by means of a caulking chisel - first the upper part is pushed through, and then the lower one. To align the seam, a road builder is used;

During the caulking of cracks, the log house rises slightly, and therefore, it is necessary to clog each crack along the entire perimeter and only after that move on to the next level, otherwise the bathhouse may “skew”;
If there is already a stove and a chimney in the bathhouse, the pipe must be released so that the structure that has risen due to caulking does not damage the masonry.
To do this, it is enough to free up the space around the bath pipe by a few centimeters;

Outcome

Proper selection of material and our helpful tips will help you carry out these manipulations without any difficulty. You can learn more clearly about the process of caulking a bath by watching the video in this article.

One of the main measures for warming a bath from a log house is caulking (caulking). Caulking is a clogging of the gaps between the log crowns with environmentally friendly insulating materials. In this article, we are talking about how to make a log cabin caulk on your own and what materials and tools will be required for this.

Article
Video

The purpose of the log caulk

After all the crowns of the bath from the log house are laid, inserted and the roof is closed, it is necessary to proceed to the process. The log house has been insulated since ancient times, and this process has practically not changed until today. The only thing that has changed is the materials and tools for caulking (we will talk about them a little later).

Caulking a log house is necessary for the following reasons:

For well-insulated, it will take less time to warm up the steam room and other rooms
The log house tends to dry out, as a result of which gaps are formed in the design of the bath, which will need to be hammered
If heat comes out of the bath, condensation forms outside the log house, which will cause the log house to rot.
A well-insulated sauna will require less fuel (coal, gas, wood or even electricity) to heat.

As you can see, caulking a log house is a very serious and at the same time useful event.

When do you need to caulk a log house?

As we know, it takes at least one year to shrink a log building. Based on this, there is a lot of disagreement about the time of caulking a log house.

The first caulking of the log house must be carried out immediately after laying all the crowns and covering the roof.

The second caulking of the log house is carried out after the bathhouse partially shrinks (about a year later). Despite the fact that during the first caulking all the gaps will be tightly clogged, in a year there will be a place for another warming of the bath in the interventional cracks.

Well, the last caulking of the log house should be carried out at the moment when the bath is completely seated, no later than after 5 years.

We draw your attention to the fact that do-it-yourself caulking of a log house must be carried out as with outside baths, and from the inside. Another important point: during high-quality caulking, the bath can rise by about 7-10 cm, so it’s better not to fix it with the roof so that it doesn’t deform during this time.

Materials for caulking a log house

To date, for caulking a log house with your own hands, you can use moss, tow, special sealant, jute and lnovatin. Let's take a quick look at the benefits of each material.

Moss

Previously, the log house was caulked with moss. This material for caulking is still used by some builders, but most experts prefer more modern materials.

The advantage of moss is that it is 100% environmentally friendly material that has antimicrobial properties and at the same time has high durability.

The disadvantage of caulking a log house with moss is the high cost of this insulation.

Moss for caulking should not be too dry, but at the same time, it should not be too wet.

Tow is also often used for log caulking, but this material is not recommended. Firstly, caulking a log house with tow is a very laborious process. Secondly, tow absorbs moisture, so after a few seasons it can begin to rot, thereby damaging the crowns of the log house. Thirdly, it is very difficult to pick out a rotten tow from the inter-crown cracks, especially since repeated caulking is not a very pleasant process. And fourthly, tow is a delicacy for moths.

Jute is environmentally friendly pure material vegetable origin. It is often used for caulking a log house with your own hands, because. this material has the following advantages:

The material has high strength
Jute practically does not absorb water, and therefore does not rot.
Jute has good thermal insulation properties

We draw your attention to the fact that often in construction stores instead of jute they offer an analogue - jute felt. We do not recommend using jute felt for caulking a log house, because. this material has a share of flax, and this significantly reduces the strength and increases the hygroscopic properties of the material.

The caulking of the log house with jute is carried out during the erection of the structure from the log house. The material is laid on top of the crowns and fastened with a construction stapler.

Lnovatin is also used for log caulking. This material consists of compacted linen dust, which is made in long ribbons. Lnovatin, like jute, has high strength and heat-insulating properties.

sealant

Actively gaining popularity and special sealants for caulking a log house. They are most often used in conjunction with jute. There are different types of sealants depending on the width of the cracks. We draw your attention to the fact that it is advisable to use the sealant together with jute or flax, this will make the thermal insulation of the bath more effective.

To date, the following set of tools is used for caulking a log house with their own hands:

caulking
Curved caulk (requires skill to work, but more effective)
Road worker (used with a caulk)
Caulker (narrower, in some places it is more convenient to work with it)
Mallet (used to drive caulk into cracks)

It is recommended to use soft caulks (for example, made of wood), because. they will not damage the surface of the log house. The only problem is that soft caulking is more difficult to use, but with a few warmings you will definitely adapt to this tool.

Do-it-yourself log house caulking technology

Do-it-yourself caulking technology is quite complicated, although you can’t say this from the outside. As we said earlier, when caulking a log house, the structure becomes 7-10 cm higher, so you need to caulk evenly and correctly.

You should know that no finishing measures should be carried out before caulking the log house, because. during the lifting of the structure, they will immediately be damaged.

The correct caulking of the log house implies the warming of the interventional space in tiers (from the bottom to the top). First, we caulk the lowest joint (between the first and second crown). This must be done around the perimeter, starting from one corner and ending with it. As soon as the tier is insulated, you need to move to the overlying crown.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is extremely forbidden to carry out isolated caulking (for example, only one wall), because. the construction of the log house can noticeably warp.

It should be noted that experienced builders can level a skewed log house using only caulking.

When caulking a log house, it is necessary to carefully hammer in the insulation at the corners, because. these nodes need it the most (due to the presence of locks and complex grooves).

There are two ways to caulk a log house with your own hands: “stretched” and “set”. The first method is used if the gaps between the crowns are small, respectively, the second is intended for wide gaps. Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

For caulking a “stretched” log house, you will need a strand of insulating material for the length of the entire gap. First, you need to tamp one side of the strand into the gap, then bend the other side (as shown in the picture) and carefully hammer it with a caulk or caulk.

This method of caulking a log house with your own hands requires much more insulating material, but it insulates the bathhouse from the log house with better quality. Caulking technology is different: a strand with a thickness of at least 15 mm is prepared. Next, the strands must be typed into loops and alternately hammer each loop into the gap (so that the strand goes across the gap, as shown in the picture). It is necessary to hammer the strand with the help of a split caulk, knocking the material from above, and then from below. After the strand is completely crammed into the slots, it is recommended to make a final compaction using a road builder.