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Growing, care and reproduction of room chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum in a pot: care after purchase, during the growth period and in winter, transplantation and reproduction Chrysanthemum content temperature

Chrysanthemum is a beautiful plant native to Japan. According to legend, one cruel Chinese emperor heard that on one of the islands located next to his state, a beautiful flower grows, giving people immortality. However, in order for this quality to manifest itself, an honest person had to rip it off. Deciding to gain immortality, the emperor sent several chaste boys and girls to the island. However, the envoys did not return. The island was so beautiful that they decided to stay here and named the new country Japan. The beautiful flower of immortality, the chrysanthemum, became its symbol.

Today, this wonderful plant, whose homeland is indeed Japan and the Far East, is grown all over the world. Moreover, it is used not only in landscape design, but also planted as a houseplant. We will talk about what care a chrysanthemum in a pot requires in this article.

How to choose the right variety

Of course, you can grow a single plant in a pot, but bush or Chinese chrysanthemums look much more beautiful and spectacular in this case. On the trunk of these varieties, many shoots are formed, on each of which buds bloom. A properly planted bush chrysanthemum in a pot looks like a big bright flower ball.

This plant can reproduce in several ways. Hybrid forms are usually grown from seed. However, in most cases, lovers of home flowers plant ordinary varietal chrysanthemums. Such flowers are most often propagated by cuttings. Let's see how a plant like chrysanthemum is grown in a pot. Home care for this flower must be carried out according to certain rules. Otherwise, it will be impossible to grow a beautiful spectacular bush.

Where to place

Do not install chrysanthemum on the windowsill on the south side. This plant does not tolerate too much heat. Direct sunlight will definitely cause burns. But it is not recommended to install a pot with chrysanthemum in the shade. In this case, her flowering will be very poor. It is best to place the chrysanthemum next to the window, but in such a way that it is in partial shade.

Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we will talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. Material from the mother plant is cut sharp knife. It is impossible to break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted. A beautiful and lush bush will grow only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container. Drill a few holes in the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil is poured into it, mixed with some kind of organic fertilizer.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot also comes down to proper soil preparation. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather tender plant that is easily infected. different kind viral and fungal diseases.

Cut stalks are carefully dug into the ground. After 20-25 days, roots form on them. As soon as this happens, they should be carefully, together with a clod of earth, transferred to a small flower pot. In this case, an adult plant will take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet. The same earth is poured into a new pot. That is, they mix nutrient soil with organic fertilizer. You can also use fertilized peat.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot: bush formation

In order for the plant to turn out lush, pinch the tops of all the cuttings. This must be done before the buds appear. Otherwise, the plant simply simply will not bloom. Do not be afraid to remove not too "successful" side shoots. Plants will quickly release new ones.

A very spectacular bush can be obtained after cutting too small buds from it. The more they are removed, the larger the rest of the flowers will grow. It is not difficult to find out the length of future petals. Usually they are about three times the size of the bud itself.

Subsequently, when the bush grows well, the cuttings can be planted in different pots. But you can leave everything as it is.

How to fertilize

So, with how to properly plant this plant, we figured it out. Now let's see how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot. Of course, this plant, like any other, should be periodically watered and fertilized. Top dressing is applied some time after transplanting into a small pot. In this case, not organic matter is usually used, but special agent- crystal solution. This fertilizer is specially developed for chrysanthemums and contains magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, molybdenum, nitrogen and zinc. This rich nutrition has a beneficial effect on root system plants.

As a fertilizer, you can also use a not too strong solution of mullein. When watering, it is important for them to ensure that splashes do not fall on the leaves.

How to water a chrysanthemum in a pot

You will have to moisten the soil under the chrysanthemum very often. The plant is moisture-loving. Watering it should be done at least twice a week. In any case, it is impossible to allow the soil to dry out in a pot in any case. It is also not necessary to fill the chrysanthemum too much. Otherwise, she may develop some kind of fungal disease. Also, experienced flower growers do not recommend watering the chrysanthemum after sunset. If the droplets on the leaves and stem do not dry quickly, this can also lead to infection with the fungus.

When answering the question of how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, experienced flower growers usually advise periodically spraying it. Perform this procedure better in the morning - after sunrise, and in the evening - before sunset.

Diseases and pests

As already mentioned, this plant is not very resistant to various kinds of infections. Very often, a chrysanthemum in a pot becomes infected, for example, with powdery mildew. This disease is usually provoked by a lack of potash in the soil and an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. Infected leaves should be removed as soon as they are noticed. The plant itself must be treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Also, quite often, chrysanthemums are affected by gray rot. In this case, the leaves and stem of the plant turn black. This disease is provoked by an excess of nitrogen in the soil, waterlogging and lack of air circulation between the stems. It is almost impossible to cure gray rot. Affected parts of the plant should be cut and burned.

Of the insects, the chrysanthemum in a pot is most often affected by the nematode. In this case, white spots appear between the veins of the leaves, which subsequently darken. Infection with a nematode can occur through water or soil. This disease cannot be cured either. Sick leaves and shoots are cut and burned.

Many lovers of indoor plants after the flowering of chrysanthemums simply throw away the bush. It is possible, of course, to do so. However, it is best to save the plant until next spring. To do this, you need to cut off the shoots from it so that only short petioles remain above the surface, and place the pot in a cool place. In the spring, new shoots will sprout from the ground.

Some varieties of chrysanthemums can grow quite tall. In this case, the stalk should be tied to some kind of support. You can use, for example, a very long pencil.

The optimum air temperature in the room where the chrysanthemum is grown is 10-25 degrees. In a room that is too hot, this plant will begin to wither. In the cold, it will not bloom. It is also not recommended to install the pot where the lamps burn for too long in the evening. Chrysanthemum is a short daylight plant. With prolonged bright light, it will feel uncomfortable.

Thus, we have figured out how to grow a plant such as a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care for this flower is not too complicated. The main thing is not to forget about watering, to form a bush correctly and not to expose the pot to the sun.

Flowers chrysanthemums (lat. Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Asteraceae family, or Asteraceae. The genus includes about 30 species, whose representatives grow in zones with a cool and temperate climate, mostly in Asia. In garden culture, chrysanthemum has been known for over a thousand years, and the plant came to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown in open ground, but there are species that grow well in greenhouses and at home.

Planting and caring for chrysanthemum

Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly damp all the time.
Air humidity: recommended morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle.
Top dressing: during the period of active growth, adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When fertilizing with organic solutions in a weak concentration, intervals of 4 days are observed. With the beginning of the formation of buds, feeding is stopped.
rest period: after flowering is complete, cut off the shoots and place the pot in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to produce new shoots.
Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years.
Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely - seeds.
Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits.
Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.

Home flower chrysanthemum - features

Home chrysanthemum is not large in size, because it is grown by artificially stopping growth with specially designed preparations. Although there have been cases that a garden-sized plant was obtained from an acquired cutting of a home chrysanthemum.

Usually indoor chrysanthemum is a low-growing variety of mulberry chrysanthemum, or Chinese, which are abundantly flowering bushes height from 15 to 70 cm. Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, in addition, varieties of home chrysanthemum differ in the shape of flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in home culture.

Chrysanthemum blooms at home usually in autumn and winter, but in order for it to bloom as long as possible, you should create optimal conditions for the plant and follow certain care rules.

Chrysanthemum care at home

How to care for chrysanthemums

What conditions of detention does a home chrysanthemum require? How to care for chrysanthemum in the apartment? Firstly, it is necessary to establish a temperature regime that is comfortable for her, secondly, to observe the required level of illumination, and thirdly, to maintain the optimal water balance for the flower.

It is difficult to call chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, therefore, in summer time it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in the autumn-spring period - at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is in compliance with this temperature regime many buds are tied, and the flowering of chrysanthemum is long and plentiful.

As for lighting, growing chrysanthemums in a pot is carried out on the windowsills of windows oriented to the east or west, since flowers on the southern windows can wither from excess sun, and on the northern ones they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real heat, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.

During the period of active growth, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a dense and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first of all proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly damp all the time. Caring for a chrysanthemum at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and pan.

In the hot season, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so badly, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

Chrysanthemum transplant

Caring for homemade chrysanthemum in pots involves the annual transplantation of young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be transplanted once every two to three years.

As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1, and in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom abundantly, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Do not plant chrysanthemum in acidic soil, she does not like it. Before filling a new pot with soil mixture, a layer of drainage should be placed in it, and the substrate should be shed with boiling water and dried.

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

Caring for home chrysanthemum requires fertilizing the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral supplements, since potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2.

Chrysanthemum also responds well to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires mineral fertilizers to be applied to the soil every 10 days, and a mullein solution (1 part of fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Feed the chrysanthemum up to the beginning of the formation of buds.

Chrysanthemum care after flowering

As soon as the chrysanthemum fades, it must be put into a dormant state. Cut off its shoots and place the plant pot in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to produce new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a large container and returned to its previous conditions.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum in the apartment

Reproduction of chrysanthemum cuttings

The easiest way to propagate homemade chrysanthemum is with green non-lignified cuttings. As cuttings, side shoots about 10 cm long are cut from the branch, the leaves are removed from their lower part and then the cuttings are placed in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted several times in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil is compacted around them and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of side shoots, pinch the tops of the cuttings.

You can plant cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with cuttings with a plastic cap to create a greenhouse effect. The cap is removed daily for a while for ventilation and condensate is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is taken out of the pot, the root system is carefully freed from the soil, washed and the plant is divided with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. Sections on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the way we have already described.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? Korean varieties and hybrids are best propagated by seed. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate fried at a temperature of 110-130 º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. As a substrate, you can also use the flower soil bought in the store, which should also be disinfected before planting.

It is not necessary to close up the seeds of perennial varieties, they are only lightly pressed against the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. Contain crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, airing, removing condensate from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as necessary.

Shoots should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the conditions of the room.

At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplantation, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra so that they take root faster and begin to develop. In the future, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to take care of them, already as adult plants.

As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing chrysanthemums blooming in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.

Pests and diseases of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum diseases

In improper conditions and with improper care, chrysanthemum can get sick with powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Powdery mildew is manifested by a loose whitish bloom on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. Disease-causing fungi are destroyed by treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skora or other fungicidal preparations.

Septoria is also a fungal disease, which can be diagnosed by gray-brown or rusty spots with a yellow border that occurs on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and black dots appear in their center - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry out, the stems turn brown, wrinkle and bend. The diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Kuproksat, Oxychoma or blue vitriol. Chrysanthemum should remain in quarantine until you are sure that it is healthy.

Gray rot, or botrytis, also has a fungal nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the ground organs with a gray fluffy coating, under which the tissues of the plant die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux liquid, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering begins.

Chrysanthemum pests

Of the pests, aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits are dangerous for chrysanthemums.

Aphids, thrips and pennits are sucking pests that feed on plant cell sap. They are destroyed by treating chrysanthemums with insecticidal preparations such as Aktellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.

As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm, and it is impossible to detect its presence on the chrysanthemum. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown, may indicate the defeat of the plant by nematodes. In the future, the leaves curl up, dry and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves.

After this article, they usually read

The charm of potted chrysanthemums is impossible not to succumb. Huge “sheaves” or balls, covered with so many flowers that they seem almost like pillows, flood markets and flower shops on the eve of autumn. You won't find a more popular and widespread seasonal pot. Chrysanthemums decorate gardens and terraces, facades and front gardens, balconies and apartments. All potted chrysanthemums are united by one common feature- low winter hardiness. It determines the specifics of growing the main autumn soloists.

Blooming on a mind-blowing scale

Chrysanthemums are so popular at the end of the season, not only because the color palette perfectly represents the so-called autumn palette. The colors of chrysanthemum flowers really perfectly emphasize the crimson-fiery autumn range. But no color nuances can overshadow the main thing - the tireless and very long flowering, unique in its scale and abundance. In addition, potted chrysanthemums are the most diverse in varietal colors.

Potted chrysanthemum. © bittster

Potted chrysanthemums that cannot withstand winter frosts can be grown in two forms:

Seasonal indoor or balcony annual;
A perennial that is taken indoors for the winter and cut off after a dormant period, stimulating growth.

Potted chrysanthemums can be planted in open soil - but then they will need to be dug up and transferred to pots for the winter. Therefore, they are most often grown in container culture.

Chrysanthemums in container form are different from garden counterparts. They develop as dense cushion-like bushes, shaped by pruning and bred specifically to produce high-density specimens. Numerous shoots become woody, dotted with simple carved leaves, which most often do not create a particularly impressive crown, but only serve as a backdrop for flowers. They bloom at the tops of the shoots in such quantity that they create solid hats.

The classic inflorescences-baskets of potted chrysanthemums are both simple and densely double, with wider or very narrow reed petals. A color that includes everything warm shades white-cream, yellow, orange, red, purple, brown palette can be both monophonic and combined and even contrasting.

New in fashion today blue-colored chrysanthemums and original green-colored plants, as well as varieties with dazzling acrylic colors. Even more popular are large-flowered varieties- hybrids with spherical, pompom, anemone-shaped inflorescences that adorn gardens during all the warm months, and bloom in room culture all autumn and winter.

Potted chrysanthemums vary in size. For room culture and growing indoors choose mini-varieties, the height of which does not exceed 30 cm. But the intended for open air specimens are twice as large, sometimes reaching 1 meter in height and diameter. Potted chrysanthemums are standard, and formed in the form of a ball, and squat, and even spread out. In a word, there are plenty to choose from. Moreover, indoor chrysanthemums are sold in bloom throughout the year, and today garden chrysanthemums appear on the shelves in the spring, they are specially expelled at atypical times. But such “early ripening” plants are just a temporary decoration for both the house and the garden, which will have to be thrown away. If you want to keep your chrysanthemums, buy them at the typical flowering time of late summer through fall. When buying, be sure to specify exactly what conditions the chrysanthemums are used to and how they need to be grown: sometimes local distillation chrysanthemums require specific care.

Potted chrysanthemum. © Karen Maraj

In order for potted chrysanthemums to bloom truly profusely, they will need simple but constant care and rather specific conditions. They bloom luxuriantly at low temperatures, and this requirement can be ignored only when grown as an annual or outdoors. Watering and fertilizing are frequent, but apart from them, there are usually no difficulties with chrysanthemums.

What to look for when buying

Chrysanthemums in the markets are presented in such quantity that it is not easy to choose a single bush. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are. Never buy chrysanthemums with fully bloomed inflorescences - specimens in which the inflorescences have blossomed no more than half will bloom better and longer. The bushes should be fully formed, powerful, the shoots should be woody from below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of foliage, spots on leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

Winter is the most important

Chrysanthemums develop cyclically, with a period of complete dormancy. It is the difficulty of wintering that makes many simply throw away plants after flowering is completed. If you have the opportunity to provide the necessary conditions, do not rush to doom the plant to death.

If you want to keep your beautiful chrysanthemum in a pot and admire it blooming year after year, then you will have to take care of the correct wintering. Both indoor miniature and real garden potted chrysanthemums should winter the same way (in many ways, this is why they are not divided into individual groups). The dormant period begins immediately after flowering. Bushes must be mercilessly cut to short stumps and immediately transferred to the coldest possible room, in which the temperature will not drop below 0, but will be as close as possible - from 2 to 5 degrees Celsius, ideally.

At this time, chrysanthemums are almost not watered or fed, leaving them alone until the first signs of waking up. As soon as the chrysanthemums begin to grow, they are immediately transferred to a cool place and bright light, they are transplanted into a new pot or the substrate is replaced and watering and fertilizing begin.

Potted chrysanthemums. © Eileen Loan

But that's not all: in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom next year as profusely, it is desirable that it be in cool conditions and at the flowering stage. If the plant was standing in a hot room, it will not be able to bloom profusely.

Light regime for potted chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are crops that require short daylight hours for abundant flowering. But this does not mean at all that they are content with shaded locations. During the entire period of active development, including flowering, chrysanthemums need to be provided with the sunniest and brightest locations where the plants will not suffer from midday rays or will be shaded from them by neighboring potted ones. In winter, chrysanthemums are kept in dark rooms(with the exception of specimens that continue to bloom, which are transferred to the brightest locations of the rooms and plan to discard after flowering)

Temperature conditions

Potted chrysanthemums (both garden and indoor) love coolness, especially at the flowering stage. These are not the most heat-resistant crops, which are comfortable only in typical autumn conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster the inflorescences fade and the less chrysanthemums release new buds. That is why even miniature houseplants during flowering it is better to keep in the fresh air. The optimal temperature regime for potted chrysanthemums is from 10-15 to 17-20 degrees Celsius or a little more. If chrysanthemums are at temperatures above 21-22 degrees during the flowering period, they will not be able to normally lay buds for flowering next year, and even a cold winter will not give the expected effect.

Potted chrysanthemum. © typesofflower

Watering for potted chrysanthemums

Autumn beauties need regular and fairly frequent watering. They do not like excess moisture, but they also cannot stand drought. To achieve optimal moisture, immediately after the procedure, you need to drain excess water from the pallets, and let the top layer of soil dry out before the next watering.

Air humidity

Frequent watering is fully compensated by the lack of need to humidify the air. In order for the plant to bloom more beautifully, and the foliage to be more attractive and dense, chrysanthemums can be sprayed periodically. But at the same time, droplets of moisture should not accumulate on the buds and inflorescences, and even more so, they should not get very wet. The exception is chrysanthemums blooming in winter in rooms that need to be compensated for by central heating systems.

Top dressing for potted stars

For such abundant flowering, chrysanthemums need access to nutrients in a very large quantities. The soil and the plant itself are greatly depleted, so these plants are actually fed like garden annuals - very often. It is better to reduce the dose of fertilizers, but carry out top dressing every 1-2 weeks. After the appearance of signs of the end of flowering, be sure to slowly reduce the number of top dressings. Stop fertilizing before wintering. Resume top dressing 2 weeks after transplantation.

Potted chrysanthemum. © Robert Wallace

For chrysanthemums, it is better to use special fertilizer mixtures or universal mixtures for flowering plants. If you use conventional fertilizers, then add more nitrogen during the formation of the bush, and more potassium and phosphorus when the buds appear.

Pruning and shaping bushes

For potted chrysanthemums, not one, but several prunings are needed:

removal of fading inflorescences that need to be removed from the bushes as quickly as possible;
pinching the tops to form a dense and compact crown, which is carried out in spring and early summer 2-3 times;
if you want to limit the height of the bushes or stimulate the second wave of flowering in winter - restraining pruning by 1/3 of the shoots;
pruning before wintering, which is carried out to small stumps, removing all above-ground parts.

Substrate for potted chrysanthemums: any earth mixture with a loose texture, sand and carryover (except acidic).

Transfer time: perennial chrysanthemums are transplanted annually, old bushes - every two years immediately after signs of growth appear in the spring. Drainage is laid at the bottom of the tanks, the level of deepening is kept the same.

Propagation methods for potted chrysanthemums:

Seeds that germinate well, but require many years of growing seedlings and a very long wait for flowering.
The division of the bushes, which is carried out on old chrysanthemums in the spring or after flowering.
Cuttings in spring or summer. The apical cuttings take root both in the ground and in the water, they require planting 2-3 copies in one pot and trimming first to 10-15 cm, and then in the form of constant pinching as they grow to form a crown.

Common problems and diseases:

various rots that spread rapidly when the inflorescences get wet and waterlogged;
absence or poor flowering due to violation of the temperature regime and poor feeding.
Control methods: care correction

Potted chrysanthemums are used for:

interior decoration, accent and color spot in the autumn-winter atmosphere of the house;
a spectacular guardian plant at the gate, front door, on the bends of the track;
to create interiors for terraces and recreation areas in autumn;
for decorating autumn flower beds and rabatok, masking voids and introducing beautifully flowering accents into boring corners of the garden;
in still lifes and decorative groups to decorate resting places in the garden;
for decorating balconies and verandas.

Chrysanthemums adore decor and artsy containers, love the company of other potted plants and are not lost even in the most colorful collection.

Two types of chrysanthemum are grown in pots - Chinese and shrub. In contrast to the garden view, care for chrysanthemums in pots is more complicated.

The basic and most important rule of growing is that the flower must be placed in a cool room with fresh air. Chrysanthemum does not like direct sunlight and grows well only at an air temperature of no higher than 18 degrees. The most optimal temperature of the content is 10-15 degrees. The flower does not tolerate heat very well, so if your indoor chrysanthemum has dropped its leaves and stopped blooming, it needs to be removed to a cool room.

Indoor chrysanthemum - care and growing conditions

To get a lushly blooming chrysanthemum, you need to create certain conditions for it.

Many flower growers consider this plant unpretentious and, nevertheless, you will have to follow some rules for caring for chrysanthemum at home:

Lighting. A pot of chrysanthemum should not be placed in direct sunlight. The best place for it would be a well-lit window sill, and in hot weather the flowerpot is shaded.
Air humidity. The plant does not require regular spraying from a spray bottle, but this must be done periodically. Such a light shower for a flower is arranged in the morning or in the evening. There should be no dust on the sheets of chrysanthemum.
Watering. Abundant watering is essential for chrysanthemum, but the soil should not be damp. During the period of active growth of the plant, it should be watered twice a week so that the soil is constantly moist.
The soil. To facilitate the care of home chrysanthemums, initially you need to make the right soil for planting. To do this, mix soddy soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Chrysanthemum does not like acidic soil.

Caring for chrysanthemums in pots: transplanting and reproduction

Young chrysanthemum should be transplanted annually into a larger pot. Transshipment of an adult plant is done every two years. The soil should be the same as in the previous pot. If you want to get an abundant flowering plant, you can add a little bird droppings to the soil. Be sure to make sure that the soil is not acidic, otherwise the chrysanthemum will not grow well and will not bloom. In order to prevent diseases, the soil can be spilled with boiling water and dried.

Many consider the chrysanthemum an annual plant and throw it away after flowering. In vain. You can save the chrysanthemum and even propagate it.

How to care for room chrysanthemum after flowering?
There is nothing complicated here - you need to cut the stems and put the pot in a cool and dark place. At the time of pruning, the plant may give young shoots, they are left in a pot. A pot of chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, periodically watering it. In the spring, you can start breeding chrysanthemums.

You can dilute your favorite indoor chrysanthemum using cuttings or by dividing the bush. Moreover, the latter method is most preferable due to the reliability and success of the event.

During the period of intensive growth of shoots, you can begin to reproduce the flower. One bush of room chrysanthemum is capable of producing up to 6 young shoots. Pots are prepared in advance for planting, filled with soil. Carefully separating the root system of a young shoot, it is planted in a pot and watered abundantly. Subject to the rules for caring for indoor chrysanthemums, the plant will bloom in the first year after planting.

Chrysanthemum cuttings require more time. Cuttings 10 cm long are cut from the bush, which are treated with heteroauxin or root and planted in a pot.

The cutting is deepened by 1.5 cm, and the pot is covered with a film. Seedlings are kept in a warm room with a temperature of about 20 degrees. Periodically, the pots need to be ventilated to prevent the development of fungal diseases. When the chrysanthemum grows to 15 cm, its top must be pinched to form a bush.

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

It is not enough just to plant an indoor chrysanthemum in good soil and water it periodically. Like any plant, chrysanthemum quickly picks up nutrients from the soil. Therefore, if you have a room chrysanthemum, care must necessarily include periodic top dressing.

Chrysanthemum responds well to the application of mineral fertilizers. With untimely feeding with phosphorus and potassium, the chrysanthemum blooms later than usual. To prevent this from happening, the flower is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate (1:10) or another multicomponent fertilizer is used, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2.

An adult plant is fed every 10 days during the active growth of shoots and leaves. It is best to use liquid organic matter. If the soil in the pot is depleted, top dressing is carried out every 4 days with mullein (1:10). You need to feed the chrysanthemum until the buds are formed.

Disease control

Indoor chrysanthemum is a tasty flower for pests and diseases. Especially often, a spider mite settles on the bushes of indoor chrysanthemums. If during the care of indoor chrysanthemums you find a white cobweb, you need to take urgent action. The leaves and stem of the plant are wiped with a sponge dipped in soapy water, after which the bush is rinsed under a warm shower. Actellik or pyrethrum solution will help get rid of spider mites.

Powdery mildew is another most common disease of indoor chrysanthemums. A gray coating is formed on the leaves and peduncles. This fungal infection is caused by high humidity air. The affected flower is treated with a fungicide and taken out to a dry room.

Sometimes flower growers notice a fluffy ash-colored coating on their room chrysanthemum. This gray rot multiplies, causing browning of the edges of the chrysanthemum leaf and the appearance of brown spots. For treatment, the flower is sprayed with foundationazole, and the pot is placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place.

If the room is too dry, a red spider mite can settle on a room chrysanthemum. Brown spots with a border yellow color on the leaves they will tell you about the defeat of the flower by septoria. Fundazol treatment and reduced watering of the plant will help to cope with diseases.

Growing chrysanthemum at home - video

Indoor flowers decorate any apartment or house, and chrysanthemums also delight with long and beautiful flowering in autumn. These plants can be found not only on the street, but also at home. There are many varieties of chrysanthemums that are grown on the windowsill or balcony. Chrysanthemums differ in types, shape, colors, sizes of the bush and buds, so it is easy to choose them for the interior of the house, according to your preferences and taste.

You should not buy chrysanthemums with blooming flowers. They will bloom quickly. Bushes must be fully formed. The leaves should be green, the lower part of the plant slightly stiff, and the roots strong and strong. The presence of spots, inclusions or mechanical damage suggests that such a chrysanthemum is not worth buying, as it will hurt and may die in the future.

As indoor flower the best option is a miniature chrysanthemum, which grows in height from 15 to 70 centimeters. The stems of the plants are smooth or slightly hairy. The leaves are bright, pale green, dissected or serrated, smooth or with villi. The buds can be different, starting with small ones, up to 2.5 centimeters in size, and large ones, which reach 25 centimeters in diameter. Forms of flowering in plants may vary.

Flowers can be non-double, double, blanket and two-row.

Particularly popular for growing at home are spray chrysanthemums with non-double flowers similar in shape to daisies and varieties that form a ball when flowering. For a terrace and a spacious loggia, you can buy cascade-shaped chrysanthemums that are suitable for ampelous gardening.

Variety terry yellow

For the home, mulberry, spherical, shrubby, Korean, Indian, Chinese varieties of chrysanthemums are most often chosen. They have many flowers on a lush bush. The color can be varied: white, yellow, orange, pink, orange, lilac, two-tone or have different shades. The hearts of flowers most often contrast in color with the petals.

Low-growing chrysanthemums in pots are not demanding in care and delight with their flowering for several weeks. With proper care and good lighting, flowering can be extended up to 2 months.

Chrysanthemum care includes:

temperature support,
illumination level;
systematic spraying;
regular, sufficient watering.

Lighting, temperature

Flower pots must be placed on the east or west side. On the north side, chrysanthemums do not bloom. And in the south they will begin to wither and get sick. These plants do not like direct sunlight and intense heat. The sun can damage the leaves and cause burns. The best option is a well-lit, cool balcony or loggia.

If the plants do not bloom and begin to disappear, then you need to check if they have enough light. Poor lighting, as well as an excess of light, is detrimental to chrysanthemums.

Light day for chrysanthemums should be at least 7 and not more than 10 hours a day.

For good growth flowers, the best temperature is considered: in summer - + 20-23 degrees, in autumn and spring - + 15-18 degrees, in winter - + 3-8 degrees. At this temperature, many buds form on the bushes. Flowering is lush and long.

Chrysanthemums in pots should be watered frequently. Flowers are watered in the evening, after sunset, twice a week. In winter, watering should be reduced. Watering time can be determined by the drying of the top layer of soil in pots. The earth should not dry out, as this leads to yellowing and leaf fall.

Chrysanthemums love water, but an excess of moisture is also fatal for them.

If the flowers are flooded, then mold and mushrooms appear in the ground, and they will start to hurt.

It is not necessary to pour water into the pan. Watering should be frequent, but not plentiful. Water should be taken warm and settled.

Regular spraying from a spray bottle or a container of water, air humidifiers located near plants help maintain the required level of moisture in the air.

Pruning and shaping the bushes is needed to prolong the flowering stage of chrysanthemums. In order for the plants to bloom profusely and magnificently, their tops need to be pinched twice during the growing season. This procedure is performed before the awakening of new buds (in early March) and before the formation of buds (in mid-August).

All thin, protruding, twisted shoots, yellow leaves are cut off. This creates the correct, rounded shape of the bushes.

If the branches are very long over the winter, then they need to be cut. By autumn, without shaping, chrysanthemum bushes become shapeless, elongated, and flowering is uneven.

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot: video

For strong plants with lush flowers, top dressing is required. Fertilization is carried out after transplanting the bushes. To do this, take a solution of Crystal, Bon Forte or any other fertilizer that has in its composition: nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, zinc and phosphorus. Top dressing contributes to the development of the whole plant and gives abundant flowering.

Nitrogen fertilizers are used during the formation of bushes. Before flowering chrysanthemums, phosphorus-potassium compounds are used.

You can use an infusion of bird droppings, diluted in a ratio of 1:30 with water, or an infusion of mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:10. The solution is applied before the formation of buds 1 time in 5 days.

After buying a chrysanthemum, after flowering, it is necessary to transplant into a new pot with drainage holes. It is best to take a ceramic or clay container. The new pot is taken 2 centimeters wider and 1.5 liters deeper than the old one.

Young bushes are subsequently transplanted once a year, adult plants once every 2 years.

The active growth period for chrysanthemums begins in March. In this case, plants can be transplanted into new pots.

Before transplanting, the chrysanthemum must be prepared. The old earth is being replaced by a new one. The composition of the soil should be similar (fertile soil, turf or peat, hardwood, humus, coarse sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1:1).

To disinfect the substrate, it must be poured with boiling water with the addition of a weak solution of potassium permanganate or calcined in the oven for 3 hours at a temperature of 100 degrees. After pouring boiling water, the soil must be thoroughly dried. shop soil mix does not need processing.

Expanded clay, vermiculite or broken brick is used as drainage, which is placed on the bottom of the pot.

The flower bush is transplanted completely or divided into fragments. From the separated parts, new chrysanthemum bushes are obtained.

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings.

After flowering, seeds appear on the chrysanthemum, which can be used for sowing.

At home, chrysanthemums are rarely grown from seeds; this is a painstaking and long method. This requires pots for seedlings or a container and greenhouse growing conditions with a normal level of humidity and temperature.

Seeds are laid out in the prepared soil, covered with a thin layer of coarse sand. After that, the containers are sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle, covered with a film and placed in a cool place. The film must be opened from time to time to ventilate and remove the resulting condensate.

After half a month, sprouts appear. Seedlings are installed on the windowsill, and after the appearance of 3-4 leaves, they are transplanted into separate containers. After rooting, the top of the plants is pinched to form a round bush.

This growing process takes a lot of time. Florists prefer simpler growing options, such as breeding by budding (division) and cuttings.

When propagating a bush by budding, after wintering it must be pulled out of the pot, carefully removed with an earthen ball and the roots divided into parts. From one adult bush you can get 5-6 new bushes. Divided plants are planted in separate pots with fertile soil. Young seedlings need frequent watering. Chrysanthemums need to be watered every 2-3 days.

The best time to propagate chrysanthemums from cuttings is early spring.

After the appearance of shoots on the overwintered stems, cuttings 12 centimeters long are cut from the side stems. For quick rooting, the lower part is placed in a solution of any growth stimulants, such as Kornevin. The cuttings are planted in the prepared substrate to a depth of 1.5 centimeters.

As a container for growing, you can use a box or plastic cups with holes in the bottom. After planting the cuttings, the containers are covered with a transparent film to create the effect of a greenhouse. Periodically, the film must be slightly opened to ventilate the plants.

As chrysanthemums grow, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 10-13 centimeters. When new leaves appear, pinch off the top, this stimulates the growth of side shoots.

Cuttings of chrysanthemums: video

If chrysanthemums turn yellow and dry, then this indicates improper care for them or the presence of diseases or pests.

When a fluffy, gray coating (gray rot) appears, the plant begins to rot, to eliminate the disease, you need to use Fundazol, Topsin-M, copper oxychloride. After 1.5 weeks, the treatment is repeated.
Yellow and then red spots on the foliage indicate the appearance of septoria, which leads to the death of the plant. This disease can be eliminated with the help of Fundazol, copper oxychloride.
If a gray coating appears on leaves, young stems, buds and flowers, this is a clear sign of powdery mildew. The disease is eliminated with the help of Immunocytophyte, phytosporin, Bordeaux mixture and systemic fungicides.
Rust affects all parts of the plant with spores of the fungus, rounded spots. The leaves turn yellow, the shoots become brittle. To combat the disease, copper oxychloride is used.
Verticillium enters the plant through the root system. The leaves turn yellow, become lethargic, the stems die.
Mosaic leads to the formation of mosaic spots on the foliage.
Ring spot results in the formation of yellowish rings on the foliage. The leaves are reduced in size and deformed.
With the appearance of mottling on the leaves and deformation of flowers on the plant, aspermia can be detected.
Dwarfism provokes a slowdown in growth processes and the accelerated formation of deformed buds.
Bronze-red varieties of chrysanthemums can be damaged by seedlessness. Flowers become yellowish. Reed flowers are deformed.

Fungicides are used to eliminate all of the above ailments. During the treatment period, the plant must be removed from healthy flowers for at least 20 days, and then transplanted into a new pot with a substrate of the same composition.

Chrysanthemums, in addition to diseases, are susceptible to aphids, thrips and red spider mites.

Aphid damages buds, upper parts of shoots, lower part foliage. Damaged areas become discolored, the foliage turns yellow, curls and falls off. Aphids attack flowers all year round. For insect control are used: Fitoverm, Actellik, Derris, Inta-vir, Decis. In case of severe damage to the bushes, the treatment is repeated after 5 days.

Thrips on the lower part of the foliage form numerous colonies, light dots appear on top of the leaves. The upper part becomes grayish-brown with a characteristic silvery sheen. To eliminate the pest are used: Inta-vir, Aktellik, Fitoverm and Decis. In case of severe damage, the treatment is repeated.

On the leaves of plants, you can often see a red spider mite that damages the surface of the leaves. Chrysanthemums damaged by the pest have pale yellow leaves, solid whitish spots appear on their surface. Leaves fall prematurely. To combat the pest, a weak soap solution is used, Aktellik, Fitoverm, Fufan, Derris.

Questions

Chrysanthemum has faded, what to do after flowering?

After flowering, the stems need to be shortened to 10-15 centimeters. The plant is placed on the balcony, in the cellar, pantry or left on the windowsill. In early spring chrysanthemum is gradually brought out of dormancy and transplanted into a new container.

Care for a chrysanthemum in a pot after purchase?

Care after purchase consists in transplanting the plant into a new container and further observing the rules of irrigation, lighting and shaping the bushes.

How to take care in winter?

After the end of flowering, the bushes should be cut, leaving 15 centimeters from the length and placed in a dry, place with an air temperature of 5-8 degrees and sufficient illumination.
Watering the bushes winter period reduced to once a month.

If it is not possible to take the plants to a cool place, you can leave them on the windowsills. In this case, flowers must be cut, dry buds, leaves and branches removed.
In warm conditions, watering chrysanthemums does not differ from the growing season.

Chrysanthemums can and should be planted outside if possible. Plant transplantation is carried out from the beginning of March (after warming up the soil) until the end of May. Chrysanthemums are able to withstand short-term frosts down to -3 degrees. Transplanting to the street contributes to the growth of flowers, their strengthening and abundant flowering in the fall.

With the onset of cold weather, plants need to be dug out of the ground, placed in pots and brought into heat. Two weeks after planting, fertilizers are applied to the soil. If there is humus in the ground, top dressing can be done in a month.

What to do if the chrysanthemum does not bloom?

With proper functioning of chrysanthemums, they bloom in autumn. If this does not happen, then this is a clear sign of a violation of plant care. With late pruning, lack of light, poor soil and lack of top dressing, buds on the bush do not form. When these problems are eliminated, the bush begins to grow and further pleases with beautiful flowers.

During the flowering period, one should not forget about the removal of dried foliage and flowers, otherwise the plant may dry out.

Indoor chrysanthemum is able to decorate any window sill, balcony or loggia. A variety of shapes and colors allows you to choose the right variety that will be combined with other plants or stand out from their background. Proper care guarantees the beauty and originality of flowers.