In which rooms to make underfloor heating. How to choose an electric underfloor heating: tips, calculations and diagrams, how to choose and install electric underfloor heating

Underfloor heating is no longer a novelty. This technology is used for floor heating in apartments, private houses, offices and various other premises. Their principle of operation is simple - they heat the base under your feet, as well as the air in the room, which allows you to warm up any room well enough. They are usually installed in addition to the main heating system. Installing them is not as difficult as it seems, but this is a rather troublesome business. How to make a warm floor? This process will largely depend on what type of system was chosen for installation.

Now there are three main types of underfloor heating, which differ in the type of coolant, and also have different technology of arrangement. However, in general, they are united by one main advantage - the heating element is installed directly into the floor cake, due to which it is heated. At the same time, the air masses in the room also warm up, but the air will be warmer near the floor, but above this limit, at the level of a person’s head, the air remains slightly cool, which allows you to create an optimal microclimate in the room.

On a note! In certain cases, underfloor heating can completely replace the central heating system. But this is not always possible, and you still shouldn’t refuse the main radiators.

Water based heating

In this case, the heat carrier is ordinary heated water, which flows inside pipes laid according to a certain pattern and filled with concrete screed. The service life of such a system is approximately 20 years. A fairly reliable and safe option, but it is used either in private homes or in new buildings where it is possible to connect such a floor. In old multi-storey buildings, without the permission of the management company, it will not be possible to connect a water floor, since installation will involve its connection to central system heating, not designed for additional loads - it can become very cold in other apartments.

The disadvantages of this design may be the likelihood of leaks and the risk of flooding of the premises located below, as well as the tendency of some types of pipeline to corrode. Installation, of course, is laborious, but this is one of the most economical floor options. You can install such heating for any top coat. However, if you want to use the possibilities of a water-heated floor as efficiently as possible, study the features of different coatings. Finding the perfect fit will help.

Heating with cable

Such floors can be installed in absolutely any room - even in old, even in new apartments, houses, offices, etc. This option has become a real salvation for those who, for some reason, cannot make a water heated floor. The system is quite simple to install and is a laid electrical cable in a special scheme, located inside the screed. It converts electricity into heat.

For the arrangement of heating can be used self-regulating and resistive cables. In the latter case, a two-core is usually used (single-core often become sources of radiation harmful to the body, which is why they are not preferred to be used). Self-regulating wires do not have the disadvantages that resistive wires have. Typically, a cable floor is used if the top coat is made of tiles or linoleum.

IR floor

This is perhaps the most popular floor heating system, as it does not require pouring a new screed, it is easy to install, but it is not inferior in quality to other heating options. It is represented by thin mats with carbon strips connected to each other by wires. Such floors heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly (sometimes this function is needed), they are very thin, allow you to quickly adjust the heating temperature, are economical in terms of energy costs, easy to repair and completely safe for humans. Such a system also works thanks to electricity. There is a drawback - a small static and because of this - the attraction of dust to the base. Read more about infrared underfloor heating, depending on the finish, in separate articles of the portal: under the laminate, and under the tile.

Table. Comparison of characteristics of different systems.

Characteristic	water floor	electric floor
Presence of EMP	Not	Possibly, depending on cable type
Possibility of arrangement in apartment buildings	Only in new buildings with a separate connection	Yes
Quick settings management	Not	Yes
Dependence on the heating season	Yes - in apartments and no - in private houses	Not
Installation time	Long due to the need to fill the screed	Short
Possibility of laying any finishing coating	Yes	Certain types of flooring should not be placed on top of an electric floor
Ease of repair	Complicated repair	In the case of IR floors - quick repair

Prices for electric underfloor heating "Teplolux"

electric underfloor heating thermolux

If you have not yet decided on the type of underfloor heating, read. We have discussed in detail the advantages and disadvantages. different materials and made a list of recommendations.

We make a warm water floor with our own hands

Let us consider in more detail the process of work in the arrangement of water floor heating. It includes a number of stages - this is the preparation of a rough base, the installation of the system itself, as well as pouring the screed and laying the finish coat. In this case, a budget option for creating a heating system will be considered.

Heated floors are a serious cost item during repairs, so it is important to accurately calculate how much and what materials will be needed. To facilitate your labor costs, we have prepared a guide that tells how to calculate a warm floor - water or electric. Online calculators are included. And in the article "" you will find a complete list of everything that you may need during installation.

Foundation preparation

Consider how to make a subfloor for the arrangement of a water system based on expanded clay.

Step 1. First of all, the old wooden floor is completely dismantled. Boards and logs are removed. Remains of bricks and oversized construction debris may be left on the ground.

Step 2 A laser level is used to determine the height of the final floor. The main target of the required level is Entrance door. The marking should be 1.5-2 cm below the threshold.

Step 3 Markings are applied to the walls. The first mark indicates the boundary of the screed with the laid heating pipes (the thickness of the screed should not be less than 6 cm thick). The second indicates the thickness of the expanded clay insulation (in this case, the thickness of this layer will be 10 cm).

Step 4 Along the line of the laser level, marks are applied to the walls along the entire perimeter according to the level of the finished floor.

Step 5 Markings are also applied to the walls of two other levels - expanded clay bedding and screed. The reference point in this case is the mark of the finished floor.

Step 6 The rough concrete floor is covered with sand, which is evenly distributed over it. You can focus on the bottom mark.

Step 8

Step 9 The holes in the walls left from the log are sealed with pieces of brick and cement mortar.

Step 10 Waterproofing is laid on a layer of sand. In this case, it is a dense polyethylene film, which is laid with the plant on the walls. For convenience, the film is fixed with adhesive tape.

Step 11 Beacons are being installed. For this, high-density foam block cubes are used, on which metal beacons will then be installed. Cubes are installed on polyethylene at a distance of about 1 m from each other. The height of one cube is 9 cm.

Step 12 Metal beacon profiles 1 cm high are installed on the cubes.

Step 13 At the junctions of the lighthouses, a cube must be installed. For proper docking, the beacons are cut. At correct docking beacons are superimposed on each other in the direction of the future movement of the rule.

Step 14 Lighthouses are set by level. Landmark - a line on the wall indicating the height of the screed. To level them, you can use plywood linings.

Step 15 When the beacons are level, they are fixed on the cubes with self-tapping screws.

Step 16 The draft floor should have a slight slope (the difference is up to 5 mm for each meter of the base length). If necessary, the cubes can be pressed into the sand to achieve the desired result. The operation is performed along the entire length of the lighthouses.

Step 17 Additional cubes are installed between the main cubes.

Step 18 Expanded clay is mixed with a small amount of cement mixture. This will give you a stronger floor. A bucket of sand, 2 kg of cement and about 3 liters of water are used for a bag of expanded clay.

Step 19 The prepared expanded clay is laid out on the base and leveled. Backfilling is done starting from the far corner of the room. There should be about 1.5 cm of free space left to the top level of the beacons.

Step 20 The expanded clay layer is covered with cement mortar. The solution is leveled with a trowel over the entire surface.

Step 21 The screed is aligned with the rule according to the beacons. Perfect evenness can not be achieved. To make it easy to remove the beacons from the screed, their surface is not smeared.

Step 22 Two days later, when the screed dries, the beacons are removed. To do this, the screws fixing them are unscrewed. Together with the beacons, wooden linings are removed.

Step 23 After that, the resulting cracks are cleaned of debris and sealed with cement mortar.

Pipe laying and connection

After preparation, the installation of the heating system itself begins.

Step 1. In this case, the existing heating system will be maintained on the basis of a gas boiler. The battery is powered by a supply circuit located on the second floor. The water leaving the radiator is sent to the return circuit, which is located in the basement. The warm floor will be connected to the second output of the battery and to the return circuit. Taps will be installed to turn off the radiator and underfloor heating. A circulation pump will be installed at the entrance to the return circuit.

Step 2 The radiator is equipped with the necessary fittings. These are connectors and pipes. To seal the connection, plumbing linen and sealant are used.

Step 3 This is how the finished outputs from the battery will look like. One of them will be used to connect a warm floor.

Step 4 Before further installation of pipes around the perimeter of the room, a damper tape is glued (we have already discussed its choice). She sits on the walls with glue.

Step 5 Multifoil is laid on the rough screed - a special insulation. Separate strips of material are fixed to each other with adhesive tape.

Step 6 A reinforcing mesh with 10x10 cm cells is laid on top of the foil. Individual pieces are overlapped by 1-2 cells. The grid is connected to each other with a wire.

Step 7 A pipe leading to the return is installed and connected.

Step 8 A water floor pipe with a cross section of 20 mm is mounted to the other outlet from the battery. A piece of protective corrugation can be put on the initial section of the pipe.

Step 9 The pipe is laid on the floor and fixed to reinforcing mesh with plastic clamps. When laying, it is important to ensure that there are no kinks on the pipe. To form knees, you can use a hair dryer that heats the pipe. The distance in the circuit between adjacent pipes should be about 20 cm in this case.

Step 10 The underfloor heating pipe is laid with a snake.

Step 11 The ends of the return pipe and the underfloor heating are sent to metal pipes leading to the basement. Voids can be sealed with mounting foam.

Step 12 The sections of the metal mesh rising above the floor level are fixed on the floor base with the help of dowels and metal plates.

Step 13 Further work will be carried out in the basement. Installation in progress circulation pump. It connects to the return pipe. Two cranes are also installed in the system. One of them will block the natural circulation. The lower valve completely blocks the entrance to the return pipe.

Step 14 The control unit is assembled and all pipes are connected. In natural circulation mode, water flows through the underfloor heating pipe into the return line with both taps open. If you turn off the top tap, then the water from the warm floor will move through an additional pipe towards the pump - this is the mode of rapid heating of the floor. If the bottom tap is closed when the pump is off, then the warm floor will be completely turned off.

Filling the screed

The final stage of the installation of the water floor - pouring the screed and laying floor covering.

Step 1. To make the screed even, metal beacons are installed. They are located on pieces of concrete.

Step 2 Pieces of concrete are fixed to the base with cement mortar.

Step 3 Beacons are fixed on concrete with self-tapping screws in pre-made holes. All of them must be aligned strictly according to the level.

Advice! It is better to start installing the first beacons from the side of the door. This will allow you to correctly select their height relative to the doorway.

Step 4 A concrete solution is prepared in exact proportions.

Step 5 The concrete is evenly distributed over the prepared floor.

Important! At the time of laying the screed, the floor pipes must be filled with water.

Step 6 The concrete solution is aligned with the beacons using the rule.

Step 7 The screed is dried for 28 days. The floor is covered with a top coat.

Video - Installation of a water floor

Video - Installation of a warm infrared floor

The complexity and the entire process of manufacturing a warm floor will depend on which heating option is chosen. The water floor is perhaps the most best option for arranging base heating in a private house or new building. Those who do not want to mess with the screed can be recommended to use infrared floors.

How to choose and install correctly!

What unites you and wealthy citizens ancient rome? You will be surprised - the desire to heat the floor in the house and the ability to do it. Yes, there were heated floors in many wealthy houses of the Roman Empire. And now you can afford it too. In this article, you will learn 15 facts that will help you choose the best underfloor heating for your home and avoid installation mistakes.

Fact 1: The heating system raises the level of the floor in the room. Most of the space takes a warm water floor, the least - film.

The usual diameter of the pipes through which the coolant flows is 20 mm. Add to this the thickness of the screed - and you will understand how much higher your floor will become. The cable system must be laid in a screed about 5 cm thick. Heating mats can be laid in a layer of tile adhesive - and the floor thickness will not increase due to the heating system. The film underfloor heating itself has a minimum thickness and will not affect the height of the room. If every centimeter matters to you, choose a thermal mat or film. Warm floors of the Teplolux-Tropix series are suitable for maintaining a minimum floor level. Modification 160 is used in warm rooms (including children's rooms). The Teplolux-Tropix-200 system is applicable for cold rooms ( country houses, balconies, etc.).

Fact 2: for country house, cottage the most energy-efficient underfloor heating is water.

IN country houses underfloor heating is often used as the main source of heat. For example, the products of Kermi (Germany) are metal-plastic and polyethylene pipes used in floor heating and radiator heating systems. When you need to heat a large area, a water heated floor is more profitable, since it practically does not consume electricity. Hot water moves from the collector through pipes with the help of a pump, and electricity is not spent on changing the air temperature.

Photo: waterenergy.ru

Fact 3: in many city apartments, the installation of a water-heated floor is prohibited. The only possible solution in this case is the electrical system.

Connect any devices to the central heating it is forbidden. This also applies to water heated floors. Water from the common riser, passing through the pipes of the warm floor, gives off heat and enters the neighboring apartments partially cooled. The pressure in the general system decreases. You can install a water floor in the city only in new modern houses, in which the builders have provided a separate riser specifically for this purpose.

Fact 4: electric underfloor heating allows you to quickly control the temperature in the room. The water sometimes does not have such an opportunity at all.

If the water floor is connected to centralized heating or to a heating boiler, then the temperature of the coolant does not depend on you. Even if there is a separate riser and thermostat, it will not be possible to instantly change the heating, the water temperature will change gradually. The infrared warm floor responds most quickly to new settings. When you turn it on, you will feel warm very quickly. Some models have a self-regulation function - for example, film CALEO GOLD 170-0.5-2.0. Thanks to this function, electricity is consumed more economically - as the temperature of the floor rises, the power consumption decreases.

Photo: www.freetorg.com.ua

Fact 5: Finding and repairing a damaged section of an electric underfloor heating is easier than finding and fixing damage to a water floor.

A faulty section of the cable, on which there is no voltage, can be found by a specialist quickly and with great accuracy. To replace a piece of wire, it will not be necessary to open the entire floor. If the pipe is damaged, the leak is not so easy to find. To fix the system, the floor will most likely have to be disassembled.

Fact 6: Underfloor heating with thermal insulation increases its efficiency by 30-40%.

A warm floor without thermal insulation equally heats both your room and the lower apartment or basement. In order not to waste energy, thermal insulation (for example, penofol) must be laid with the bottom layer of a warm floor. Under a thin warm floor (for example, a Teplolux-Mini thermomat with a mesh thickness of 1 mm, a cable of 3 mm), thermal insulation is not installed due to the requirements of construction documentation for the strength of the floors - it is placed only down under the screed layer. In this case, the downward heat loss will be insignificant, since the screed will delay it.

Fact 7: The type of floor covering (its ability to conduct heat, installation technique, resistance to heat) affects the efficiency of a warm floor.

When choosing a floor heating system, keep in mind that the floor covered with tiles will effectively heat the cable, thermomats. Ideal underfloor heating for linoleum, laminate (thin materials) - thermal film. It is not recommended to install a warm floor under parquet, as the wooden flooring can dry out from heating. Under a thick carpet - it is impractical (the heat will not even reach your feet).

Fact 8: If you put a warm floor under the topcoat, which is in doubt, the consequences can be unpleasant.

With a good floor covering under the influence of a warm floor, nothing will happen. Cheap low-quality linoleum, even with such a slight heating, can deform and start to smell.

Fact 9: You do not need to lay a warm floor over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. In some cases, such installation may even void the warranty.

First, it is an extra power consumption. Why heat the area of ​​the floor on which the wardrobe stands? Secondly, underfloor heating elements located under sofas, cabinets, carpets, etc. will overheat and fail prematurely.

Fact 10: after installing a warm floor, you should have a plan for its location on hand.

On the laying diagram, cable lines, distances to walls, relative to the location of plumbing equipment, and the location of the couplings should be marked. If a preliminary scheme was drawn up, final notes can be made on it. Otherwise, you'll need a metal detector to pinpoint areas where you can't drill into the floor, install pieces of furniture, or install new plumbing.

Fact 11: You cannot install the same heating system in rooms with different temperature conditions.

Floor heating in the bedroom and, for example, on the balcony must be arranged individually. Desire to save and install single system it won't lead to anything good. It is also impossible to extend the wire and increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe already laid warm floor. Therefore, calculate the floor power for each room separately.

Fact 12: infrared heat-insulated floor cannot be laid "wet".

You should know that the film that forms the basis of the infrared floor heating is afraid of aggressive environments. In particular, the alkaline environment of tile adhesive or cement-sand mixture can damage it. Therefore, the films are laid only "dry".

Fact 13: for a nursery, living room, bedroom, you should use an electric underfloor heating based on a two-core cable. For balconies, bathrooms, corridors, you can use a single-core cable.

There is an electromagnetic field around an electrical wire. Its permissible value is set in SNiP. Underfloor heating electrical cables also create electromagnetic fields. But the radiation level is low. In addition, the cable design includes a layer of shielding braid. Thanks to it, the radiation of a single-core cable is almost 60 times less than the permissible one. The warm floor of the British manufacturer Energy Light 0.5 - 50 can be used in dry rooms with any kind of floor coverings. The cable is only 2.8mm thick and is surrounded by a solid shield aluminum foil and copper braid.

Photo: stylehome.org

A two-core cable, which is recommended for installation in rooms where people are constantly present, has a radiation level 300 times less than the permissible value. Therefore, it is completely safe. As an example, we give a warm floor of the same company - Energy Light Plus 8.0-1200. Cable diameter - 3.6 mm, can be used in wet rooms, under tile, porcelain tile. Operating temperature - up to 27 °.

Fact 14: the temperature sensor that monitors the temperature of the warm floor should be placed in a special corrugated tube and placed close to the wall in an inconspicuous corner.

The failure of the temperature sensor is one of the most common problems. If the sensor is tightly filled with cement, the floor will have to be opened. This is easy to avoid. if you place the sensor in a plastic corrugation in advance. Then even after final finishing the floor sensor can be safely removed and, if necessary, replaced.

Fact 15: you need to fill the floor immediately after laying the cable, and you can turn on the heating system no earlier than the screed is completely dry. It should take about a month!

The mixture needs to dry naturally. It is impossible to speed up this process by turning on the heating - under the influence of temperature, the cement will set unevenly, and the screed will be fragile. When laying a warm floor, mixes are used that are designed for this purpose. Look on the package for the purpose and drying time.

So what have we learned? For a house outside the city, a water-heated floor is suitable, an electric one should be used for local heating. In urban apartments, installing water floors may not be possible, but electric ones are quite acceptable. The choice of the type of electric heating system is directly related to the features of the main floor device (screed, finish coating).

Heating of floor surfaces works on the principle of convection - warm air heats up at the bottom and rises, and thanks to high level heat dissipation of the coating, the room warms up in a matter of minutes.

Underfloor heating - pros and cons

The most significant advantage modern system heating type "warm floor" is a significant savings on heating. In addition, the obvious advantages of the presented system are expressed in:

• High level of thermal comfort;
• Relatively low temperature heating elements;
• The absence of bulky radiators that require additional decoration for visual "masking";
• A wide range of thermal control functions;
• Long service life (up to 30 years);
• Ability to quickly repair local faults.

Along with this, the system of warm floors has its drawbacks. They are expressed as:

• When staying indoors for a long time (bedroom, kitchen, living room) with high temperature flooring, warm floors can exacerbate vascular diseases legs;
• When using an additional coating in rooms, the coefficient of heat transfer resistance of the material should not exceed 0.15 m2 * K / W;
• The warm floor in the apartment does not heat up instantly, and in order to completely heat the room, some of its varieties will need about 10-12 hours;
• There is a need to raise the floor during installation by 6-10 cm;
• Underfloor heating in the kitchen, as well as in other rooms, can adversely affect the plastic furniture installed on top, which, when heated, can release harmful volatile compounds.

Features and design of a water heated floor

Underfloor heating system can be installed in the bedroom, kitchen and other rooms. The technology involves the use as a coolant hot water, which circulates through pipes under the floor covering. A floor heating device of this type can be compatible with any type of boiler, regardless of fuel. If desired, you can power the presented heating system from central heating. This can be done by prior agreement with a number of licensing authorities. The underfloor heating system consists of:

• Metal-polymer or polymer pipes;
• Waterproofing layer and heat-insulating materials;
• Fittings with which you can connect the heating pipes and the distribution cabinet, which houses the valves and regulators;
• damper tape;
• Fasteners (brackets, anchors, slats);
• thermostat;
• circulation pump.

The technology for laying pipes of a water-heated floor can be of two types:

• Snake - double or single;
• Spiral (shell or with a shifted center).

The presented system of warm floors has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages are expressed in:

• Relatively low cost of installation - to equip warm house do-it-yourself using such a system is possible at relatively low cost (if there is an individual heating system);
• Water heated floor technology can be installed in conjunction with any topcoat;
• Autonomous operation capabilities - the system is not affected by power outages;
• Savings on thermal costs. For example, if you make underfloor heating in the kitchen or in the bedroom, it will help save up to 30% of energy.

It is worth noting that with proper operation, the service life of a water floor can be more than 30 years.

Along with this, the presented system, placed in the bedroom, in the kitchen or in any other room, has certain disadvantages. The cons are in:

• Long and rather complicated installation;
• The inconvenience associated with painstaking styling;
• The need for reinforcement of pipes and screeds;
• The need for the mandatory use of a waterproofing layer (it must be made of polyethylene).

Features of the core underfloor heating

Carbon (rod) flooring can be done under tiles and any other types of flooring. It is also combined with laminate, parquet, wood. The design is presented in the form of a heating mat, which consists of carbon rods with a thickness of 0.3 cm and a length of 0.83 cm. The rods are connected to each other using a power cable in parallel. The system of a warm carbon floor has its advantages and disadvantages. The pluses are that:

1. The technology allows heating the premises with infrared waves;
2. The carbon warm mat is versatile and goes with any decorative coating gender;
3. Since the structure is connected in parallel, the heating mats can be divided into any number of segments, which is especially important in rooms with a complex layout, for example, in a bedroom;
4. The presented heating system can be regulated in automatic mode. The carbon rods adapt to different temperature areas of the floor and provide uniform heating over the entire area. In some areas (cold) the temperature increases, and in warmer areas it decreases;
5. The service life of the heating circuit can be 10-15 years.

Along with this, the core warm floor has its drawbacks. You can install a carbon mat only in a layer of tile adhesive, otherwise you need to make a thin cement screed. Despite the rather long service life, the system is not mobile - it can only be installed capitally.

Film underfloor heating in the apartment

Film electric (infrared) warm is presented in the form of a polymer film 5 mm thick with strips of carbon heating elements deposited on it. They are connected by copper conductive bars coated with silver sputtering. This design is fused on both sides into a polymer that protects it from moisture penetration and transmits infrared waves through itself. The film is powered by electricity from a household network of 220 V and is regulated using a thermostat.

The advantages of infrared film floor are:

• Low cost compared to similar systems;
• Simple and quick installation - installation requires a minimum set of tools, it can be done without a concrete screed;
• Possibilities of accommodation both during major and cosmetic repairs;
• Convenient separation of the film into segments of the desired length;
• Uniform heating of the room;
• The absence of influence on the air in the bedroom, kitchen and other rooms. Such a floor does not dry the air and does not burn oxygen;
• Possibilities of combination with various types coatings - on top you can lay wooden parquet, carpet, linoleum or ceramic tiles.

The service life of the infrared floor exceeds 25 years.

Advice! Before laying the infrared floor, it is necessary to level the surface of the base floor well, otherwise the film may deform during installation, which will lead to malfunctions.

Along with this, the film floor has its drawbacks:

• If the infrared film is the main source of heating, then the energy consumption will increase significantly;
• Mandatory need for careful installation - during the installation process, you must constantly monitor the correct connection of the contacts, and to level the floor surface, you need to use chipboard or plywood;
• In the absence of grounding, there is a possibility of ignition of the coating and injury to people electric shock. You need a device that provides protective shutdown systems;
• The technology requires compliance with operating conditions - such a floor can be easily damaged by heavy furniture, therefore, laying should be carried out in areas free from it.

Cable underfloor heating

Underfloor heating cable type is one of the most common floor heating systems. The main element of this design is a heating cable that can be laid in the bedroom, corridor, kitchen and other rooms. The technology can use two types of cable - single-core and two-core.

A heating cable is needed to ensure the optimum temperature in the room. It is placed in a concrete screed 3-5 cm thick. Such a heating system can be mounted under porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles or stone.

The advantages of single-core cable structures are expressed in the fact that they have a long service life compared to two-core ones. Along with this, the floor using a two-core cable is much easier and safer to mount. Pluses also lie in the ability of the insulating material of the cable to withstand temperatures of more than 100 ° C and the overall degree of reliability of the system. The service life of the cable floor depends on the operating conditions and is 10-15 years.

The disadvantages of the presented system lie in the difficulty of connecting cables to the temperature controller. The so-called "cold ends" may not be long enough; before installation, they will have to be increased. In addition, the cable creates a fairly strong electromagnetic radiation, which, however, does not exceed the established sanitary standards.

Which underfloor heating is better to choose

Most experts recommend choosing electric cable heating systems. It is worth doing this because of their practicality and overall safety. Cable floors are convenient and easy to install; you can make such a heating coating in any room - bedroom, kitchen, bathroom.

Cable electric floors are characterized by reduced power consumption, and the heating of the room is carried out evenly and continuously. This is due to the fact that the heated air from the cable heater rises from the bottom up and spreads throughout the room, regardless of the location of the furniture. The floor with cable heating can function in two modes - it is "comfortable floor" and "full heating". The user can organize the heating of not the entire surface, but only the desired part of it. Cable underfloor heating consumes 90-150 W per 1 m².

If you need an electric floor for laminate or linoleum, and you do not plan to fill the screed, then you should choose an infrared heating floor system. With a film thickness of 0.3 mm, this system will perfectly match the resin finish.

In which rooms is it better to do underfloor heating

Underfloor heating is needed to organize continuous and uniform heating of the premises. Before choosing it, a logical question arises: in which rooms should floor heating be done? If the system will be the only source of heating, then it must be installed in all rooms. In the case of an addition to the main source of heating, it will be necessary to decide in advance where to make a warm floor.

In the bathroom and bathroom, floor heating is installed in order not to become barefoot on cold tiles and reduce the overall level of humidity. In addition, while drying clothes, a warm floor in the bathroom will significantly speed up the drying process.

Another most functional place for underfloor heating systems is a loggia or balcony. Thanks to the heating, this room can be turned into a small additional room.

Before you install a warm floor in the kitchen, you should weigh all the pros and cons. So, for example, if tiles are laid on the floor, and small children spend a lot of time on it, then heating of this kind will be quite appropriate. If the kitchen has laminate flooring, and ventilation system copes well with excess moisture, then the warm floor will only dry out the air.

The underfloor heating system in the bedroom is made under a soft covering - carpet, cork, massive parquet board. There is an opinion that installing underfloor heating in the bedroom is not recommended, since according to the recommendations of doctors, sleep should take place in a room with a temperature lowered by several degrees (compared to other rooms).

In the living room, heating elements are needed if they are combined on the floor different types coatings. Underfloor heating is recommended to be installed under a porcelain stoneware walkway, which will divide the room into several zones.

In which room to make a warm floor
With the advent of summer comes the most favorable time for construction and repair work. Just at this time, without sacrificing comfort, you can start improving the heating system by supplementing it with a warm floor.

The "warm floor" system is located between the base and the floor covering. Under it is a layer of heat-insulating materials, so as not to let the heat down. From above, the heating elements are covered with a concrete screed, wood, polystyrene or just a floor covering. Heating elements raise the temperature of the floor surface, from where heat is distributed throughout the room.

The first question to be answered is: which version of the warm floor - optimal solution for your apartment?

Perhaps you are already choosing between a "water" floor (in which the heat carrier is water or another liquid that gives off its heat to the floor covering) and an "electric" floor (for which a heating cable with a high resistance alloy core is laid under the floor covering). However, for interiors, there are also "air" floors (with hot air as a heat carrier circulating through the air duct system), "infrared" floor on carbon rods - the most modern offer on the market (electricity is supplied to carbon rods, which heat the flooring). Another type of infrared floor (light option) is a heated floor made of thermal film with carbon elements, to which electricity is also connected.

Without dwelling on the analysis of the pros and cons, let's summarize briefly: a water floor is economically beneficial for use as the main heating, it takes time to lay (especially if the floor is poured with a concrete screed) and the work of the team, but it is most effective when used on large areas . A popular option for supplementary heating is electric flooring: it does not raise the level of the floor as much and does not threaten to leak, in addition, it provides faster heating compared to a water floor. On the other hand, it is accompanied by the presence of an electro-magnetic field, which is not very favorable for the human body. The air floor in Russia is extremely unpopular, as it requires special air ducts, besides, the gas cools quickly. Infrared floors are the "healthiest" option currently available, as electromagnetic radiation is kept to a minimum, but it is more expensive than the others. In addition, the infrared floor does not require a long wait before being put into operation.

The next stage is the choice of premises in which heated floors will be located. If it's about warm floors as about the only heating system - it is clear that they will be in all rooms. But when used as an addition to the main heating, it is necessary to determine in advance where to lay the heating elements.

In bathrooms and bathrooms, it is laid so as not to stand on cold tiles and reduce overall humidity. Black fungus will not form on the tiles and the curtain in the bathroom, and condensation will no longer accumulate on the walls. When drying clothes, underfloor heating in the bathroom or utility room significantly speeds up the drying process. Here, the appearance of a warm floor is fully justified.

The second most functional place for a warm floor is a glazed balcony or loggia. Heating helps to quickly turn them into an additional room or a winter garden.

The warm floor in the nursery is no longer so unambiguous. Of course, children prefer to crawl, sit and lie on the floor. But for the floor in the nursery, "warm" coatings are usually used: children's carpet, cork, solid or parquet board. They do not require additional heating and are heat insulators, which will significantly reduce heating from below.

To make a decision regarding the kitchen, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. If there will be tiles on the floor, and small children spend a lot of time here, then a warm floor will be a good help. If there is a laminate in the kitchen, the children have grown up, and the ventilation system perfectly gets rid of moisture, then the warm floor will only dry out the air.

The flooring in the bedroom is usually made, as in the nursery, from "warm" materials. In addition, according to the recommendations of doctors, a person has a better rest in rooms with a temperature reduced by several degrees. Thus, in the bedroom you can do without a warm floor.

In the living room, heating elements are necessary if combined different types floor covering. In this case, a warm floor is made, for example, under a porcelain stoneware walkway that separates the zones of the room.

A warm floor in an apartment no longer seems to be a curiosity and an indispensable element of an expensive renovation. It is available to everyone, its installation can be done independently, and the variety modern means and materials allows you to solve the tasks and goals in each particular room.

Benefits of underfloor heating

The heat-insulated floor allows to create the most comfortable microclimate indoors. For example, with traditional radiator heating, warm air is formed within a radius of 1.5-2 m from the radiator, in addition, the heat partially goes outside, drafts are formed due to the movement of large air masses.

These shortcomings can be avoided by laying a warm floor, which heats the room evenly, eliminating humidity, the air does not dry out and static electricity does not form, which reduces the amount of dust. When heat rises from the floor to the ceiling, it matches perfectly physiological needs person. It is especially convenient when there are small children in the house, they can safely play on the floor and you can not be afraid for their health.

If a warm floor is the main source of heat, then this improves the design of the room, allowing more convenient and rational use of the space freed from radiators.

There are the following floor heating systems: with water heating, electric, film.

A water heated floor can be laid in private houses, cottages with an autonomous heating system, where pressure and temperature are regulated. In apartments with centralized system must be agreed with management company, ZhEkom, because the system is connected to the common house and water, circulating through plastic pipes, loses its outlet temperature. It will reach the neighbors in the riser chilled, which is a gross violation of their rights.

The most popular and widely used is electric underfloor heating, it does not require any approvals. The principle of operation is as follows: the cables heat the cement screed, which gives off heat, warming the air. Having reached the set temperature, the system turns off, when the floor starts to cool, the temperature sensor will give a signal, and the system will start working again. The temperature can be adjusted using a thermostat, creating optimal modes, for example, so that the heating turns on a few minutes before coming home from work, lower the temperature at night, you can change the mode on weekends, etc. The only drawback is the high consumption of electricity, in areas where the cost of electricity is high, it can be costly and economically unprofitable. You need to know that the floor needs to be raised at least 5 cm.

It is impractical to lay a warm floor throughout the apartment, because. due to the screed, a large load is formed on the ceilings and load-bearing supports, the most optimal rooms are the kitchen, bathroom, children's room. It is not recommended to lay a warm floor if the flooring is parquet, because. wood is a poor conductor of heat, it is well suited for ceramic tiles, linoleum, carpet.

The technology of laying electric floor heating in the apartment

The laying technology is quite simple, and everyone can do it, you just need to follow certain rules. First, the base is prepared, the old floor covering is removed, if necessary. In the place of the wall where the thermostat will be installed, a strobe is made with a perforator for cable routing. It is possible to lay a plastic film on a dried screed for waterproofing, in order to avoid the formation of condensate. Next, thermal insulation is laid, you can use mineral glass wool or more modern material- penofol, one side of which is covered with foil, when laying the foil should be at the top. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the thermal insulation, the task of which is to give strength to the cement mixture that will be laid on top and to prevent the cables from coming into contact with the thermal insulation.

Then proceed to laying the cable, you can lay different ways: snake, spiral, parallel way. The usual step is 20-25 cm, it is necessary to retreat 5 cm from the wall and at least 10 cm from the radiators. In those places where the furniture will stand, the cable can not be laid. Installation is carried out using a mounting tape attached to the floor with dowels, it helps to avoid kinks. A special temperature sensor, without which the system cannot work, is installed in a plastic tube so that it can be replaced without opening the cement screed. The tube is laid between the cables and fastened with mounting tape. It is imperative to check the correct installation to check the reliability of the connection, using a special tester, the cable resistance is checked, it should not exceed the permissible norm. Contact and crossing of cables is unacceptable, otherwise a short circuit will occur, and during repairs it is necessary to open the entire coating and dismantle the cement layer.

After checking, a screed 3-4 cm thick is made. The solution is poured very carefully, making sure that voids and bubbles do not form, which will lead to cable failure due to overheating. For screeds, only special mixtures intended for underfloor heating are used, ordinary ones can quickly crack due to heating and become unusable. Only after complete drying, after 4-5 days, you can finish laying the floor covering, and turn on the system only after 3-4 weeks. A wet screed can cause a short circuit, uneven drying will occur, cracks and voids will form.

Choosing a cable for an electric floor

The cable plays a very important role, the safety and service life of the floor depend on it. It can be single-core, two-core - more expensive and safer, the core can be made of galvanized steel, nichrome, brass, copper. The insulating layer can consist of several layers, it protects the cable from destruction and damage. In the bathroom you need to use cables for wet rooms with special water-repellent insulation and connect the system to earth.

A warm floor can be made the main source of heating or as an additional system to a radiator. With the main system for effective heating, the power of the heating elements should be at least 140-150 W per 1 sq.m., with additional heating, a power of 110-120 W is sufficient. Before buying, you need to calculate the length of the cable, taking into account the distance between the rows, on average, 40-50 m is required for a kitchen of 10 sq.m.

Underfloor heating in an apartment with heating film

The film is based on nanotechnology, acts like the sun, emitting infrared rays, providing uniform heating of the room. This is a flexible layered plastic, inside of which there is a contact group of copper, silver and heating elements.

The heating film is highly reliable, has a long service life, is easy to install, does not require cement screed and does not affect the floor height, and is easy to dismantle. Ideal for any coating - laminate, linoleum, carpet, porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles, can be laid partially on the free space from the furniture, and not on the whole room. After installation, the system is immediately ready for operation, the set temperature is .

The heating film does not create electromagnetic waves and does not emit harmful substances. It not only warms the room, but is also very useful for the human body, promotes general strengthening, activates water molecules in cells, and accelerates the removal of metabolic products from the body. Infrared systems up to 25% more economical cable systems, they are used as additional heating systems, as the main ones can only be used during the off-season.

Underfloor heating in an apartment is a great opportunity to achieve an optimal microclimate. The term of its operation is at least 50 years, subject to all installation rules - it is practically unlimited. It is important to choose the right materials, not to heat beyond the established indicators. Underfloor heating should be cost-effective, meet the technical capabilities of the room, not violate operating systems and not lead to emergencies.