Sawdust stove - how to make it yourself. Sawdust stove: the old principle in a new way Do-it-yourself sawdust stove from a barrel

Important technical features

During assembly and operation, long-burning boilers differ in certain technical details, known to professionals, and which users of such devices must know:

• Chimney pipes are assembled in the direction opposite to the movement of combustion products.
• For the chimney, such a design is selected, which, if necessary, can be disassembled and scheduled cleaning can be carried out.
• Boilers must not be located near objects and materials that cannot withstand high temperatures.
• Sawdust boilers must be tested in all operating modes before use. This determines the optimal temperature regime devices and the required amount of fuel to load.

The process of making a furnace with your own hands, with the availability of materials and experience in similar work, is simple. This will require an accurate drawing, necessary materials, tools, and just one day of time.
The main condition for the subsequent correct operation unit- this is the accuracy of manufacturing, the quality of materials and connecting seams. When operating the device, it must be remembered that the boiler is a subject of increased fire hazard, and it is not worth conducting various experiments with it.

The following videos detail how to make various kinds long-burning furnaces and the principle of their operation is shown:

In our view, a potbelly stove is a rectangular iron box with a door for laying firewood and a chimney welded to the top of the box. Once upon a time it was, in a similar primitive design different types solid fuel burned at a crazy rate, throwing most of the heat into the chimney pipe. The owners of such stoves used the chimney as a heating element, laying it through the entire room. But today the situation has changed and we are ready to present in this material a modernized version of the stove, and also talk about how a home-made potbelly stove is made on long-burning sawdust.

Design and principle of operation

A long burning stove does not look like a traditional potbelly stove, as we imagine it. In addition, it is not mass-produced by any manufacturer, and its design is entirely the achievement of various craftsmen. Most of all, the new potbelly stove resembles a round metal stove - “slobozhanka”, but differs from it in the way it burns fuel. As the latter, sawdust is used here, and here's why:

• heating with a stove that runs on sawdust and wood chips will be inexpensive due to the availability of such fuel;
• compressed sawdust burns out for a long time, one load will last from 6 to 10 hours of operation of such a heat generator.

The stove has a vertical configuration and consists of two cylinders, the smaller one is installed inside the larger one. The simplest option is 2 barrels with a capacity of 200 and 100 liters. Under the small barrel, which plays the role of a combustion chamber, there is space for an ash box that can be removed through an opening in the lower part of the large barrel. To supply air to the furnace, the design of the potbelly stove provides round hole done in the bottom of the small cylinder. He enters there through the ajar drawer of the ash pan. From above, the body is tightly closed with a lid, and a chimney pipe is installed on the side between two stiffening ribs.

There are no special tricks in how long-burning potbelly stoves work. First, a cone is inserted vertically through the open top cover into a round hole made in the bottom of the furnace. Then the combustion chamber is filled to the top with sawdust, which are tightly packed. The cone is carefully removed, closed top cover and you can start burning. To do this, they take out the ash box, put wood chips, torches, small wood in it and set it on fire. The box is inserted into place without pushing it all the way to leave a gap for air. The details of the process are shown in the video:

Under the influence of the draft created by the chimney, the compressed sawdust begins to slowly smolder, the long-burning stove enters the operating mode. Combustion products, leaving the furnace, heat the walls of the barrel and exit through the chimney. This method of heat transfer allows you to take away a significant part of the heat from the flue gases, bringing the efficiency of the heat generator (COP) to 40-50%. At the same time, the duration of work from one download can reach 10 hours, as mentioned above. In addition to these advantages, the sawdust stove has others:

• low manufacturing cost;
• ease of installation, the installation of a potbelly stove consists only in the construction of a chimney with satisfactory draft;
• low requirements for fuel quality;
• energy independence.

The disadvantage of the potbelly stove is that you cannot add fuel "on the go" until the previous portion of sawdust is completely burned out. Again, like any iron stove, the unit heats only the room in which it is located. But this shortcoming can be corrected by adding a water circuit and connecting it to several batteries located in other rooms. Then you get full-fledged heating with sawdust of a small private house or cottage.

To get started, you need a certain set of tools. Here is their list:

• welding inverter machine;
• angle grinder with wheels for cutting metal;
• drill;
• tape measure and square;
• various locksmith tools.

As already mentioned, the easiest way is to make a potbelly stove from a barrel. To begin with, the top is carefully cut off in each of them, and to the cut off part large capacity you need to weld metal handles and locking devices for a snug fit of the future cover.

Advice. Before starting work, it does not hurt to rinse both containers well, since unpleasant smoke can be released during heating, the composition of which depends on the previous contents of the vessels.

A rectangular opening 250 mm wide and 100 mm high is cut out at the bottom of the large capacity, where the drawer will be inserted. The latter is welded from metal 1.2 mm thick to fit the size of the opening, and 500 mm long. For convenience, 2 guides from a corner of 25 x 25 mm should be welded to the bottom of the barrel from the inside.

From a steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm, a round pallet is cut out under the inner diameter of the container. In a stove for heating a summer house or a garage, it will serve as a support for the combustion chamber and separate it from the ash pan. A hole with a diameter of 60 mm is made in the center of the pallet, the same is done in the bottom of a small container. Then the pallet is welded or placed on a stand made of steel bars, keeping a distance of 150 mm from the bottom of the tank. Before finally assembling the potbelly stove, it is necessary to make a hole in the body of the barrel and insert the gas duct pipe into it, scalding it around. The insertion point is in the middle between two stiffeners (ridges). To regulate the intensity of combustion, it is recommended to integrate a rotary damper with a handle into the nozzle. At the end, a small barrel is installed inside a large one on a pallet so that the holes in them are aligned.

Advice. Since a firebox from an ordinary barrel is unlikely to last for a long time, you can make a stove on sawdust by using a metal pipe of the appropriate diameter as a combustion chamber.

The last step is to make a loading cone 1.5 m long. There are 2 options here: cut it out of wood or make it out of thin metal. In any case, the cone must be made in such a way that its lower end fits snugly into the round hole of the pallet, in our case its size is 60 mm.

Potbelly stoves with a water circuit

A vertical stove that burns sawdust can be adapted to heat water. Here, its low efficiency will play into our hands, since the flue gases leaving through the pipe have enough high temperature. To take advantage of this circumstance, a small economizer is installed on the vertical section of the chimney, which takes the heat of the exhaust gases. It is a water jacket for a chimney with inlet pipes. The device can be purchased ready-made or made from a pipe section whose diameter is 50-70 mm larger than the flue.

Such a do-it-yourself potbelly stove with a water circuit is connected to a tank of water or to 2 small heating radiators. In this case, forced circulation should not be used in the system, the movement of water should be convective. However, it is necessary to monitor its temperature and pressure by installing such control and safety devices as a pressure gauge, thermometer and safety valve.

Conclusion

A simple economical sawdust stove is suitable for country houses, garages, greenhouses and not even big houses. The labor costs for its manufacture are small, as well as special difficulties, you will need desire, certain skills and a little personal time.

In the realities of the current economic situation, it is becoming more and more problematic to regularly purchase large quantities fuel for heating large private houses.

As a result, many homeowners are constantly on the lookout for opportunities to cut costs that create a huge hole in the budget. Getting used to living in the cold is not an option, so the only optimal solution is to find some cheap material that burns well, gives off enough heat and is easily accessible. One of suitable materials- simple sawdust. Usually they are sawmill waste and are discarded, which means that they can be easily and for little money bought from woodworking shops.

However, in order to get the necessary thermal energy, you need to not just burn them, but use a special device - a sawdust stove.

The design of such a unit is not very complicated, so that, having understood the principle of its operation and carefully drawing up the drawings, you can build a stove on sawdust with your own hands. You might think that it is quite capable of working on sawdust, so it makes no sense to assemble some overly complicated apparatus. In fact, all types of potbelly stoves are designed to burn solid wood and work best on this. Forcing her to burn sawdust, it will be problematic to achieve the desired effect.

Working mechanism

Sawdust stove is a long-burning device, since the sawdust in it does not undergo the usual combustion reaction, but slowly smolders, while releasing a large amount of heat, which should be enough to warm a couple of small rooms. However, in order for the process of smoldering of sawdust to begin, it is necessary to compress them so that no oxygen remains between the individual elements of the material. Too much of it will lead to the fact that all the fuel will begin to burn quickly, releasing excess amount energy. Because of this, the sawdust will quickly burn out, and you will have to load a new batch. Of course, this eliminates all the savings. In addition, in this case, there will be too much heat, and part of it will be wasted.

To better understand this principle, it is worth watching a video on the Internet.

Materials for the manufacture of the furnace

There are no special guidelines for the choice of material. You can use everything that is at hand, the main thing is that the selected material has the desired shape of a standard boiler of the volume required for the existing room. That is the shape of the selected container should be round. Perfectly suitable for a volume of 200 liters, a wide metal pipe or a large cylinder from under natural gas. Please note that the smoldering temperature of sawdust, despite the absence of open fire, is quite high, therefore, in order for the container to withstand the heat load, its walls must be at least 4 mm thick.

A parallelepiped-shaped container can also be used as the main body of the furnace. Again, there is a similarity with the potbelly stove, but the design is still different. The main difference is that fuel is placed into the furnace through the top of the furnace, and not through a door in the side wall. This is due to how the sawdust stove works - the fuel must be compressed before ignition.

Construction assembly technology

As an example, a design variant using a steel barrel is given. How does it turn into a workable oven? The technology for the production of a long-burning furnace is as follows:

• The top cover is cut off to make a removable structural element. Special sides will be made along the edges of the walls of the barrel, and a handle will be attached to the lid.
• A circle is cut out of a sheet of metal a few millimeters thick, the size of which should not exceed or be equal to the diameter of the container. A through hole of sufficient size is drilled into this circle so that a pipe for the exit of smoke passes tightly through it. The resulting part is inserted into the barrel and welded to its wall at a distance of a couple of tens of centimeters from the bottom.
• The cone-shaped chimney pipe should have a diameter of about ten cm, and be the same amount less than the barrel in height.
• Just below the previously welded circle, a hole is cut or drilled in the wall of the container for oxygen to enter the furnace. A hole is made under the chimney in the upper part of the wall, the entire home-made structure is supplied with stands and placed securely on a concrete or brick foundation.

sawdust - lovely material for heating houses and greenhouses.

They consist of wood, which means that when used correctly, they are only slightly inferior in terms of heat capacity to firewood.

You can get them cheap, and in some cases even is free.

• houses;
• makeshift;
• greenhouses.

We will also consider in detail all types of heating stoves and long-burning boilers that can use sawdust as fuel.

Before talking about the features of boiler houses on sawdust, you need to deal with yourself combustion mechanism this fuel, because it is very different from the mechanism of burning wood.

No matter how tightly the firewood is stacked, between them there is always air passes, and in sufficient quantity to support combustion.

Even loosely laid sawdust skips much less air, so the smoldering quickly dies out without supplying additional air to the combustion zone.

Sawdust burners work effectively only when fire moves from top to bottom. Therefore, only a layer of sawdust 2–5 cm thick is constantly burning.

Due to the fact that only a small amount of fuel is involved in combustion, power boilers on sawdust and stoves working on them, with the same with wood and coal heating appliances 2-3 times less.

Another factor that reduces the power of the boiler or furnace is the low combustion temperature of sawdust.

If firewood burns with the right air supply, then the flame temperature exceeds 1000 degrees, often reaching 2000 degrees in tongues of fire. And this powerful fire, because the whole mass of firewood emits pyrolysis gases.

The temperature of the fire near burning sawdust, even with the right air supply, does not always reach and 1000 degrees due to low flow of pyrolysis gases.

Pyrolysis gases effectively exit only from the upper layer with a thickness 5–15 mm.

From sawdust that is burning or heated, but located below, the gas escapes with difficulty, because the sawdust located on top interferes with it.

Despite these shortcomings, sawdust perfect fit for boilers and long-burning furnaces.

After all, well-compacted sawdust burns a very long time.

Often, a home-made iron stove burns for 5–8 days from one filing of sawdust, providing heating for the entire house.

Suitable heating systems

For heating with sawdust of private houses and any buildings use such systems:

• heating stoves;
• heating furnaces with a water heating register or heater;
• water heating with radiators;
• water heated floor;
• air heating;
• air heated floor.

Heating stoves heat space around you and therefore only suitable for small houses . At a distance of 10 meters from the oven, the temperature drops by 10-15 degrees, so in big houses the stove can only act as an additional heater.

Heating furnaces with water heating register or heater combine the advantages of furnaces and boilers. They give the same heat as a conventional heating stove and heat the coolant, which enters remote rooms through pipes or air ducts.

The large mass of the furnace turns it into heat accumulator, thanks to which you do not have to re-heat the boiler every 2 hours or throw firewood into it every hour. The oven will maintain temperature coolant up to 6–10 hours, so you can heat 2-3 times a day.

Water heating with radiators in each room can be used with both a water boiler and a sawdust stove if it is built into it. water register. Like any other water heating, it can work on natural or forced circulation of the coolant.

In systems with natural circulation hot water first rises to the ceiling, then descends into each room and enters either radiators or warm floor. In systems with forced circulation water is driven by a pump, so all pipes can be laid under the floor.

Water and air underfloor heating not only heats the room, but also improves its microclimate. In winter, it is very pleasant to walk barefoot on the floor, feeling its warmth with your feet. Main lack of underfloor heating- the high cost of materials and work, because it is necessary not only to lay air ducts or a water pipe, but also to qualitatively insulate the space between the floor and the ground or foundation.

Air heating also costs expensive, as well as a warm floor, because it is necessary to lay air ducts throughout the house, as well as put automatic humidifiers due to the strong drying of the air. A furnace with a heater can be used as a heat source.

The difference between furnaces and boilers is only in the presence of a boiler water jacket, that is, the space between the hot body and the outer casing is filled with water.

Here distinctive features each heater:

• bake– direct heating of air and surrounding space;
• heater– air heating for delivery to other rooms without heating the surrounding space;
• furnace-heater- heating of the surrounding space and heating of air for delivery to other rooms;
• oven with register– heating of the surrounding space and water for delivery to other rooms;
• boiler– heating water for delivery to other rooms.

Therefore, heaters and boilers are installed in utility rooms and often insulated from the outside. After all, it makes no sense to spend thermal energy on strong heating of the utility room, and the less heat is spent on this, the more other rooms will get.

Requirements for heating appliances

For heating with sawdust, it is necessary to use long-burning boilers and stoves that comply with the following conditions:

• fuel burning top down;
• big outer surface area(important for ovens);
• big heat exchanger area or water jacket;
• big firebox volume;
• possibility air supply into the combustion zone.

Due to the small size of the sawdust, it can be fed into the furnace or boiler automatically, which is even more increases battery life heating device. Most often, auger feed is used for this - a rotating auger raises or lowers sawdust from the bunker and scatters them in the combustion zone.

When there is too much ash, the heater is stopped and cooled to clear of ashes and reload with fuel.

For heating with sawdust, boilers and long-burning stoves of the Stropuva type (the Russian analogue of Bubafonya) are well suited. These devices have firewood burning principle, and air enters directly into the combustion zone.

Furnaces and long-burning boilers that run on sawdust can not only be bought, but also made by hand. AT homemade devices the requirements for heating devices described above are also implemented.

Furnaces and boilers for sawdust

There are 2 types of fireboxes, which differ in air supply method:

• above, through the descending air duct;
• from below, through a pre-made channel in sawdust.

The most famous furnaces and boilers of the first type are devices under the Stropuva brand. They are produced both in the form of furnaces and boilers.

As we said in the article (Fuel from sawdust), the difference between stoves and boilers is that the first heat the air directly, and the second heat the coolant. Then the coolant, which can be either water or air, enters the rooms through pipes and heats them.

With drop down duct

Furnaces and long-burning boilers Stropuva arranged like this:

• body is made of pipes with a diameter of 50–70 cm;
• cut into this body two doors- loading from above and cleaning from below;
• passes through the lid telescopic tube(in home-made devices it is replaced by an ordinary pipe of great length) - an air duct;
• welded to the bottom of the duct steel circle thickness 10 and a width slightly less than the inner diameter of the body;
• attached to the top of the disc. chain or steel cable for lifting the air duct;
• welded to the underside of the disk corners or channels, creating an optimal gap between the disk and the fuel;
• smoke outlet made a little higher than the cleaning door.

Such boilers and furnaces work on sawdust as follows:

• lifting the air duct with a cable or chain, the furnace or boiler is loaded with sawdust, tamping as much as possible them;
• loading sawdust, from above lay the kindling- paper and various chips;
• waiting for the kindling to flare up, lower the duct and close the loading door;
• air supply is set to maximum, due to which the top layer of sawdust flares up and the furnace / boiler goes into operating mode;
• fire and smoke rise through the space between the disc and the body and heat both the air duct and the housing;
• oven starts radiate heat, and the boiler heats up the water jacket;
• as the sawdust burns out, their level becomes lower and the air duct descends after it, such a system provides a constant flow of air into the combustion zone and optimal fuel combustion mode.

With bottom air inlet

Boilers and furnaces without a descending duct are designed and operate somewhat differently. They have the air duct goes to the furnace from below.

Such heating devices are loaded through flip cover. The chimney is connected just below the hinged cover.

flip cover seal asbestos cord or tape.

During loading, a long wooden cone-shaped plug is inserted into the air duct (the upper diameter is 1.5–3 times larger than the lower one).

The sawdust is compacted tightly and after the loading is completed, the plug is pulled out - air enters through the resulting channel to the upper burning layer of sawdust.

Kindling is placed on sawdust and set on fire. When the kindling has flared up, close the hinged lid by setting the chimney damper and the air supply regulator to the maximum draft mode.

After the sawdust flared up, reduce air supply and the stove or boiler goes into long burning (smoldering) mode.

Furnaces, boilers and heaters: which is better

When choosing heating that runs on sawdust, the following must be considered:

• volume of water in the water jacket the boiler should be 10–15% of the total volume of water with the heating system, therefore it is advisable to use forced movement of water through thin tubes;
• water boiler cost"Stropuva" starts from 65 thousand rubles, and the price of do-it-yourself sawdust boilers - 30-50 thousand rubles, including the cost of the material;
• air heating not only heats, but also dries the air;
• water heating pipes can be hidden under the trim, and air heating pipes will have to lay in plain sight due to the large cross section (pipe diameter in cm is equal to half the area of ​​​​the room in m²);
• find industrial heaters that work on sawdust (boilers and stoves that heat air, which is then delivered through pipes to rooms) of long burning very difficult, and their cost often exceeds the price of the Stropuva boiler;
• the cost of manufacturing heaters is comparable to the price of manufacturing a boiler;
• the costs of material and laying of water and air heating are approximately the same and amount to 15-20 thousand rubles for one room measuring 15–20 m 2;
• furnace manufacturing costs are 20-50 thousand rubles depending on the size.

Heaters and boilers are well suited for heating big houses, because they heat the coolant, which then enters remote rooms through pipes or air ducts. For small houses it is preferable to have a stove installed at the junction of all rooms.

If someone is not satisfied appearance iron oven, it can be overlaid brick lattice- it will improve the appearance of the oven and will not interfere with the movement of air.

Useful video

In this video, the owner of a private house tells how prolong burning sawdust in the kiln:

Results

Cheap or free sawdust effectively replace firewood or coal as fuel for heating. However it is not worth burning them in ordinary furnaces and boilers because they are designed for other fuels.

For such heating, do-it-yourself burners on sawdust are made or ordered from a master. The cost of buying or manufacturing such heaters will pay off in 5-10 years if you have the opportunity to get sawdust for free or cheap.

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A sawdust stove is an excellent option for heating small rooms with wood, which contributes to a large amount of energy. Sawdust can significantly reduce the cost of owners country houses, greenhouses, baths, workshops, greenhouses for the purchase of fuel. The sawdust boiler is assembled by hand, which is much cheaper than looking for such a mechanism on the Internet or purchasing it in special stores.

The combustion chamber in a sawdust stove is the main structural element into which fuel is loaded. Inside there is a heat exchanger, which begins to warm up in the process of burning sawdust. They are placed on the grate, through which the waste falls into the ash pan. It needs to be cleaned of ash every few months.

In the furnace on sawdust during combustion, end products arrive - gases heated to a certain state. It is they who heat this element, and then the heat is transferred to the room. To enhance the effect, it is recommended to install spiral heat exchangers in stoves. The cooled gases, having given up the necessary heat, begin to go into the pipe.

The stove on sawdust of long burning allows you to heat the room for a long time. Uniform distribution of heat in the heat exchanger occurs due to the fact that sawdust smolder gradually.

Elements

The sawdust stove is made from materials that the master always has at hand. You can use pipe cuttings, barrels, gas cylinders, any metal containers. Such homemade mechanisms are great for heating a house with sawdust, and at the same time they have a very simple design.

The main elements of such boilers include:

• The compartment where the fuel is loaded.
• A blower, thanks to which air flows into the furnace.
• Pipe-chimney with a valve.
• Lid.

A drawing of a homemade sawdust boiler shows that the combustion chamber has a second bottom. Two elements are made in the chamber-compartment - a turner and an auger. The agitator is necessary to mix the sawdust from time to time, ensuring their constant supply to the auger. From it, sawdust enters the bunker, and then - into the combustion chamber.

Sawdust must be loaded vertically so that the fuel is more convenient to press and ram. This principle allows them to smolder for a long time, constantly releasing heat.

Using an old barrel

Do-it-yourself sawdust stove requires the use of the following tools:

• Bulgarians.
• Hacksaws for metal work.
• Hammer.
• Chisels.
• Welding machine.

In order to make a furnace without a circuit, you need an ordinary metal barrel or gas bottle. The wall thickness of the selected material should not be less than 5 millimeters. Additionally, you need to purchase a metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, fittings and a metal corner.

Such a long-burning furnace is made according to the following instructions:

• First, the top cover is cut off - then a removable one will be put in its place when the sides are attached along the edges of the perimeter.
• Then you need to cut out another from a metal circle, the diameter of which will be 3-5 mm less than the diameter of the barrel. A through hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made in the center of the circle.
• The circle is inserted into a barrel or cylinder, but not to the very bottom, fixed at a distance of 150-200 mm from the bottom, and then welded.
• Inside the barrel, it is necessary to drill or cut a window that will act as a blower.
• A hole is made in the upper part of the barrel for a chimney pipe.
• At the very end, you need to insert a pipe into the hole, weld it.

Manufacturing schemes similar structures show that sawdust stoves can have legs.

Pipe oven

Boilers are made independently on sawdust and from a piece of pipe, which has thick walls. The pipe must have a diameter of 400 mm. You will need a metal pipe, the diameter of which will be 100-150 mm. Gases will be expelled through it. It is also necessary to stock up on a metal sheet 6 mm thick (more is possible).

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a stove on long-burning sawdust with your own hands are as follows:

• A fuel tank is made from a metal pipe, for which a hole with a diameter of 90-100 mm is cut into it.
• A circle of the same diameter as the pipe is cut from a sheet of metal. It must be attached to the sheet, circled with a pencil or marker. With the help of a grinder, the workpiece is cut out of the sheet.
• In the center of the resulting hole, it is necessary to make a hole measuring 50-80 mm.
• Take a metal pipe and make 50 holes in it with a diameter of up to 10 mm.
• The resulting workpiece is inserted into the bottom of the cut, which will act as a stove. The perforated pipe is fixed by welding.
• A round blank should be cut out of the metal lock, which will be the lid. A hole is made in the center with a diameter equal to that of a pipe with holes. Another hole is made closer to the edge of the lid.
• It is necessary to install a pipe to remove smoke. To do this, it is inserted into the hole in the upper part of the cut and welded.
• A chimney is attached to the pipe with a clamp.
• The junction of the pipe and the branch pipe is sealed with insulating material.
• Three or four supports are cut out of the metal profile and alternately welded to the bottom of the cut.

The sawdust stove is also made from empty metal barrels. It is better to take thick-walled containers, then they will last much longer. The volume of barrels should be different - for the first it will be about 200 liters, and for the second - less than 50 liters.

Such a barrel is assembled on sawdust in stages:

• A lid is cut off from a large barrel, which will be needed to make a barrier for the stove.
• The cover must be reinforced with fittings or metal corners.
• A lid is welded to the top of a large barrel.
• A partition is made from a sheet of metal, which is necessary to support the fuel chamber. A hole with a diameter of 6 cm is made in the very center of such a plate.
• A hole of the same diameter is made in a small barrel.
• The smaller container is inserted into the larger one so that the holes are aligned.
• By using welding machine make a triangular support from reinforcing bars. The height of the support must be 150 mm.
• Then a partition is placed on it, and the resulting structure is installed on the bottom of a large barrel.
• Make an ash box to install the resulting container under the partition. Before installation, it is necessary to make a hole on the outside of a large container with sides of 300 by 130 mm.
• In the very center of the large capacity, another hole is cut out, where the pipe is inserted. A chimney is attached to it. The structure is insulated with thermal insulation material.
• From above the barrel is covered with a special heat-resistant mixture-paint.

Firebox features

It is recommended to use wood chips or sawdust as fuel for a homemade barrel. The material is laid inside, carefully compacted and set on fire. Before this, the sawdust must be sprinkled a little with gasoline or firelighter liquid.

The oven lid must be closed tightly. As soon as a fire occurs, open the damper slightly, and then close it again - this will help regulate the air flow. As soon as the smoldering process is adjusted, the sawdust will begin to smolder evenly, giving off heat to the room.